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My Camino 2021
  • William Struth

My Camino 2021

A 11-day adventure by William Read more
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  • Trip start
    August 16, 2021
  • William StruthMy Camino 2021Traveler

    Pre trip Dinner

    August 15, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    We're celebrating Nicole's Birthday today! Our Pastor gave me a wonderful blessing today. I was so worked this morning that I got up at 4 and ended up walking 5 miles before church.

    I'm still going back and forth with packing. I need to reduce stuff! Tomorrow morning is crunch time for the over packing. I get picked up at 12:30.Read more

  • William StruthMy Camino 2021Traveler
    My plane!
    In MadridFrom my hotel room.Bought my hiking poles!A bag piper greets the peregrinos on their way to the cathedral.The CathedralThe view from the Parador Hotel terrace in SdC..Peregrinos lined up in the evening to get their certificate.A peregrino wedding. Everyone with backpack just walked into SdC today. PS that's rice in the air.

    Arrival in Santiago de Campostella, SdC

    August 17, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Plains, trains and automobiles today. Travelling and finally arriving in Santiago de Campostella. I managed to get some pulpo for dinner today. I don't know why I'm so excited to eat it but I am. And I even got to see a wedding celebrated by walkers aka perigrinos.Read more

  • William StruthMy Camino 2021Traveler
    The starting point for the English Way aka Camino Ingles.
    1Some street artLove this MuralMore street art.First Stamp112.5 k to go.It's easy: you just follow the signs.Stamp # 2 from the Cathedral in Ferrol.Dinner! And these were the smaller portions.

    Ferrol

    August 18, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    As I was writing this I finally was able to order dinner. This restaurant, Casa Maruxa, is on the way. It's 8:55 and I'm the first one having dinner. But by the time I left it was pretty busy inside. I have to remember too that it's only Wednesday, but there is a nice amount of street life here for a small city.

    Today's travels were a walk around Santiago this morning and a bus ride to Ferrol. I started my Camino at the way maker for the starting point in Ferrol and made my way to here (the restaurant). Then I'll go back to the hotel tonight to get ready for the walk tomorrow. My hotel is about mile from the starting point so my official start day gets to be today even though it's only a mile in day one.

    I also saw a street graffiti art show in one of the neighborhoods in Ferrol. It was celebrating the work of a street artist named Eduardo Hermida.

    Ps: dinner was great, cod Galician style, and a salad, capped off with an espresso.

    Pps: check out the photo of the way marker in Ferrol.    Read more

  • William StruthMy Camino 2021Traveler
    Sunglass problems
    Low tideA church along the wayWatet water everywhere and lots of drops to drink10k down and 107k to go.Camino AngelBreakfast!

    Breafast on the way

    August 19, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    I've walked just over 10k so I stopped for some breakfast.

    I had a rough start this morning. After I left my hotel I was adjusting my great and dropped my sun glasses. They looked OK but that must have loosened a lens because I hung them from my neck and when I stopped for coffee I found a lens missing, so I had to back track back almost all the way to the hotel to find the lens.

    I found a part of a hiking stick on the way so I picked it up and and I'm hoping to find the owner at my next stop.

    The old man with the sheep in the photo below stopped me and told me I was going the wrong way!    Read more

  • William StruthMy Camino 2021Traveler
    The monastery of San Martino
    PilgrimsSome localsWhich way? Sometimes you do get options. I went right and found the old mill.The molino (mill) .The view from my hotel this evening

    Into Neda

    August 19, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    I made my way to Neda Spain in the afternoon and met a few perigrinos along the way and at the albergue in Neda. I'm not staying at the albergue, but stopped by to find the owner of a hiking stick someone dropped. No luck there though.

    I saw a couple of beautiful old tidal mills too. Both were pretty run down and it looks like they have not been used in years.    Read more

  • William StruthMy Camino 2021Traveler
    My hotel in Neda
    The albergue in Neda this is a municipal hostel. Because of covid they are operating at 50% capacityThe walk along the estuary. This was an optional route, and I was the only one on this path.A scenic overlook. That town in the distance, Ferrol, is what I started walking.The packSelfie time!A public fountain/ laundry before everyone had indoor plumbing.Some burdens laid to rest. This Camino does not have something like the Cruz de Ferro.For SharonWaiting to get their stamps

    Rest Stop

    August 20, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    I left Neda after a hearty breakfast at my hotel. I walked along the coast of the estuary and when I got to Fena, the pack caught up to me. Its really about 5 or 6 groups and I'm the only non Spanish person. This spot, where i am having breakfast is the last place to get a coffee or rest before I get to Pontedeume.Read more

  • William StruthMy Camino 2021Traveler
    Bigger than my big hand
    A horse for SharonThe Camino provides1Horreo. The big flat stones on top of the columns were originally placed there to keep out the ratsMeMe with the PonteOne of the city gatesThe Cheap Hotel.

    Pontedeume

    August 20, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    It's a beautiful medieval town on the mouth of the river Eume. Its named for the old bridge there that's supposed to be the longest arched bridge in Spain. It's also a resort town, even though the beaches are on the other side of the bridge.

    After my rest stop and coffee the Camino split, giving two options to walk. I took the road to the right because I knew Sharon wanted me to take a picture of a the horse just down the road from the split. Most of today's walk has been in the country side. What a blessing from the industrial areas. I was able to focus on what I am here for.

    A bit further down was a table with coolers of drinks, sandwiches, sweets and fruit. And all this after I was just thanking God for this trip. I've read about Camino Angels setting these food stands up for a donation as you pass by. With Covid and all I was wondering if I would see some. Anyway I was hungry for lunch and stopped and had a beer, a sandwich and a banana. It was all down hill from there to Pontedeume. It's a short Camino but you still get hills to go up and over.

    I arrived at my hotel/bar. Reception is in the bar. The owner told me I had to leave my bag, for luggage transfer, at a local café in the morning. So I said ok and went up to my room to shower and relax and found I didn't have the wifi code. When I went down the bar it was closed. So now I'm getting nervous. I ended up calling the transfer service and the found someone who could speak English and worked out the new pick up with them and then went to the café and confirmed with them too. Now I have to work on getting wifi...... got it!

    I forgot to mention, they have the biggest hydrangeas I've ever seen, the flowers dwarf what we have here.

    Ps the hotel's name translates to Cheap Hotel Norte. Don't believe me? See the notice from my room below. Actually the owner is very nice and they get some fairly decent reviews.

    Pps. In Galicia they have the coolest mini barns to store gains. The style of building dates back over a thousand years. They are called horreos and are set on rock pillars with a big overhanging stone cap. the stone cap keeps the rats out of the grain.    Read more

  • William StruthMy Camino 2021Traveler
    Morning fuel up
    My little pack this morning. Romi is in front and the guys are following.MeAnother steep uphillMore big hydrangeaLaying down my burdens.Breakfast stopBreakfast

    Burdens

    August 21, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    At the 77k marker I laid my burdens down. I started off early in Pontedeume with coffee and churros. Then a steep up hill with Jose-Carlos and Romi. It was 165 meters up, just over 540 feet, to get out of town. We walked with a group of 4 guys who have been passing me by since the bus ride from Santiago. Romi and guys are from Madrid. We had some nice chats while walking, untill I came to the 2nd up hill. They're all half my age or less and walk way too fast for me, so I had to stop and rest and let them go on. Romi and Jose Carlos saw a wild boar in the woods before we split.

    You get a view of Betanzos, the end of this stage from a hilltop after we split up, but Betanzos is still a long way off. Over 10 k away.

    Shortly after that I stopped for breakfast. Well time to get back on the way...    Read more

  • William StruthMy Camino 2021Traveler
    Translated loosely as "Keep on going you can do it! & the reply is "higher and higher/ hallelujah"
    The Roman bridge still standing and in use!Alejandro passing me again..Cooling off the tired dogsYup, another horse.The way into BetanzosDid I mention the streets are steep?Me at the bridgeI heard in medieval times that the size of the animals genitalia indicated how powerful the person wasSanta Maria do Azougue

    Betanzos

    August 21, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    My longest day so far with 25 k walking. I kept on running into the guys and spent some time talking with Alejandro, who wanted to practice his English for his job. The walk was a real roller coaster ride and I one point we got down to a beach and then up steep hill like at the biginning of today's walk in Pontedeume

    I also had lunch again courtesy of another Camino angel. It was a nice spot nestled amongst the trees in a eucalyptus forest. It was perfect timing because I had another hard up hill slog just before I came up on the food.

    I also tied my shell back on my backpack. The knot had become undone as I was leaving breakfast, Perigrinos tie on a scallop shell to show they are pilgrims. And there are.many places to get one including stands on the way where you can pick up a shell and leave a donation.

    I crossed a Roman bridge today. There are still scattered around the countryside from when Spain was a Roman colony.

    Betanzos is a small pretty hilly midieval city. When you enter through the old gates the way markers point to the left and another steep uphill walk. What a surprise! I found out later after I went out to explore that if I had turned right streets are less steep, and I could have meandered back to the place I was going. Lots of beautiful small Gothic churches too.    Read more

  • William StruthMy Camino 2021Traveler
    The vertical map of the trail today
    My hotel in BetanzosThe old bridge out of townOn a farm along the wayA different kind of Camino signThe views along the wayA pony!

    Break times

    August 22, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    I left early and stopped for coffee with the boys. They were telling me about a guy doing the walk barefoot, they even video'd him! They also picked up a new Camino friend, Perla, who's walking companion seems to have left her behind. And I found out there's a big Nordic Walking group from Sevilla walking together. They make up most of the pack.

    Today's walk is about going up hill. Starting with a steep climb out of Betanzos then it flattened out for the walk to the coffee stop and later lunch. I packed my own lunch for today ,but it turns out I could have eaten at my next stop. It is wonderful place with a garden that opens on the Camino. I sat with the guys there too. They had passed me and were already there when I got there. Alejandro showed me an elevation view of this stage and I saw that I had a long ways up to go even though I was almost 1/2 way to my days end, so I bid my goodbyes as they started their 2nd beers figuring they would pass me again.    Read more

  • William StruthMy Camino 2021Traveler
    The road keeps going up
    More going upMe and Jose- Carlos at Casa AvelinaKeeping my feet up after a long days hike.One of the owners of Casa Avelina with Jose- CarlosThe other owner of Casa Avelina taking us to the chapelThe chapelMe bugging a treeDinner

    Mezon do Vento

    August 22, 2021 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    The highlight of today was Casa Avelina where I ran into Jose-Carlos again. It's run by two sisters who really cater to the Camino crowd. We sat out side and had a few beers. And the ladies brought over stools and made us put our feet up: just the thing I needed for my aching feet. They brought food with beers, the roasted peppers were delicious! And then opened the local chapel and let us ring the church bell!

    It was short walk to the hotel from there, about 40 minutes. I found out the 4 guys just arrived late at the hotel. Jose-Carlos is staying in with Romi, apparently she showed up after I left the lunch spot and they hung out together for a while.

    We all had dinner together.    Read more

  • William StruthMy Camino 2021Traveler
    Is this Jurassic Park?
    First lightEucalyptus!More of fantasy landWhat a ride!St. James (Santiago)A little shrine at the feet of St. James.HórreoLeaving fantasy landFalling behind aka slow man walking

    Fantasy Land.

    August 23, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Fantasy land

     I didn't get far before I had to make a pit stop. And this where I ended up! Actually across the street from the sculptures. I didn't expect to see a dinosaur on pilgrimage route.

    It was a beautiful morning leaving Meson do Vento. I left my hotel on my own and ran into many people I know at the café. We left the café together but since I walked slow I was soon left behind.

    That is what I expected and what happens on the way, we all walk at our own pace and visit with others for a bit while walking. Little did I know that the café would be the only place open along the way today.    Read more

  • William StruthMy Camino 2021Traveler
    Jose his mom Jennifer and Nuria
    Walking the wayComing up on another group of peregrinos in front of a closed café..Lunch with silly facesMireya and the old womenIt was a.long hot walkJose and his mom at the puppy bar.Jose and mePuppies!A tired mom

    Siguiero

    August 23, 2021 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    This was the longest and hottest day so far. But now I'm just hanging out at the patio of the hotel. It was another great day.

    After my first coffee break I was hoping to stop at one of the cafes further down the roaf for breakfast or lunch, but they were all closed. And as usual I fell behind the group. But I met a new group of pilgrims, Jennifer and her son Jose from Barcelona and Mireya and Nuria from Madrid. We had a lovely walk together. We found picnic spot and all shared what ever we had for lunch.

    On the way we met an old women walking on the road with great mellon and a huge beat. She was so sweet, Mireya stopped to talk to the women and she offered to make us dinner! We declined though, because we still had a ways to go.

    On the way into Siguiero we stopped at a bar, Clube Hipico Deixebre / Gamping Corredoira do Camiño Inglés to get some refreshments and found my original group of walkers and puppies!    Read more

  • William StruthMy Camino 2021Traveler
    Leaving the hotel in Siguiero
    After the Dos Chicas caught up to us1Me as an old time perigrinosThe Enchanted Forrest. The photo below the sign is a photo of a famous Galician author.On the wayGetting closer!In townWe made it!We made it.A witch in the woods

    Enchanted Forest

    August 24, 2021 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    On the way in to Santiago de Compostela we passed through a section of woods called the Enchanted Forest. We also stopped at a café and took some silly pictures.

    Two of the ladies were walking with, now forever known as Dos Chicas, Nuria, and Mireya, were supposed to leave Siguiero with us. But they took the wrong bus from the hotel and finally caught up to us on the way. Their bus pulled up as we were crossing a bridge along the raod. Apparently they were shouting at the bus driver to stop the bus when they saw us! The bus ride did disqualify them from getting a Compostela, since it is mandatory to walk the entire last 100 kilometers. See my other post today about the perigrina with bandaged feet. People will do what they must to get it. Or they will return again.

    I got all the selos (stamps) I needed for my Compostela by lunch time (at least 2 selos for everyday). We were also comparing pilgrims passports with another group of perigrinas who had different covers than ours. The ones issued by the church in Galicia are different than the ones you can get at tourist information office for example. They are all acceptable.    Read more

  • William StruthMy Camino 2021Traveler
    The Santiago torte, seved Gallician style.
    Jose, Nuria and MireyaInside the CathedralThe 5 peregrinos.On the way into Santiago de Compostela3 kilometers left to go!I lit 2 candles one for my cousin Laurie who passed and one for the people I've been praying for on my prayer The tomb of St. James the Apostle: Santiago.

    Santiago

    August 24, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Getting refreshments after walking into Santiago de Compostela. I swear my feet were hurting more and more as I entered Santiago de Campostela. Just after the 3 kilometer marker we could see the towers of the cathedral peaking over the the city rooftops. At 2k we could really see them clearly.

    I'm having some refreshments and cakes at Almorzos. My friends say it is the best place for cakes and sweets in the city, I saw a girl there who was limping and whose feet are all bandaged up, a real perigrina.

    The cake I had was a Santiago torte served Galician style with coffee liquor poured over a cross cut into the slice of cake.

    The next stop was a visit to the cathedral and a visit to the tomb of St. James the apostle. Then on to get our Compostelas (completion certificate) but the Pilgrims Office was closed for the day.

    All good things come to an end. My Spanish travelling group of friends were not doing this for religious reasons. But one was still grieving for the loss of her husband. Anyway they had to depart. So it was a bitter sweet ending for the day.

    Tomorrow is Compostela, laundry, and Covid test time. I need to test negative to be able to return to the US.    Read more

  • William StruthMy Camino 2021Traveler
    From the Pilgrims Office website.
    The line when I arrived went around the blockHanging out in the garden after I got my ticketJust a few more to go!The certificates & my Camino Passport with the stamps I collected. The office places the last stampLunch!The Cathedral once againA Happy PerigrinoI forgot to mention you have to get a negative covid test to come home

    After the Walk

    August 25, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Today was a mix of busy and waiting. I could not get my Compostela yesterday, since the office closed. I was still able to register and got counted for the days totals though. I was one of 1273 pilgrims who went to the office, but my guess is that less than 50 were on my route.

    So far this month there have been approximately 22,000 registered pilgrims who completed the way. Overwhelmingly they walked the Camino Frances. If you see a Camino movie or YouTube channel about the Camino, it will most likely be about the French Way. 344 Americans did the walk so far this month. And out of the 22,000 people, most walked, a little over 1000 people bicycled, 34 rode horses and 15 people in wheel chairs made it.

    I returned to the Pilgrims Office at 9 am to see a long line winding around the block. That line was to get a ticket to then be called to submit my documents for the Compostela. Remember those stamps? I was going to have to show my credential with the stamps to get my Compostela. I got ticket number 316. While I was waiting I went out souvenir shopping, because the people in the pilgrims office told me it would be at least 2 hours before I was called. The ticket thing is actually kind of nice, because you don't have spend your whole time stuck on line.

    I was finally called just after 12 noon. The process was easy: I went up to the window and they looked up my info when I registered and counted the stamps and confirmed the dates. I was issued the Compostela with my name in Latin. Actually the text of the Compostela is all in Latin. I also asked for and received the Certificate of Distance. And a cardboard tube to take them home in. It's funny all the guidebooks say I walked 117k but my certificate says 113. It doesn't really matter and I do like the Latin name.

    To celebrate I got lunch on a fixed price menu with wine, bread, Galician Soup and roasted meat and coffee all for 11 euros.

    I did miss the pilgrims mass though. It was at 12 and there is limited seating due to Covid and long line because of the limited seating. One day..... and maybe I will see the Botafumeiro.

    The rest of the day was taken up making sure I had my travel documents ready including taking a Covid Test. You can't get back in the country without one. Actually it may not matter soon, because there are rumors that the European Union will close to Americans after Labor Day since we never reciprocated the reopening.    Read more

    Trip end
    August 26, 2021
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