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Antarctica 2023

December 2022 - January 2023
A 16-day adventure by Elloise Read more
  • 16footprints
  • 3countries
  • 16days
  • 74photos
  • 6videos
  • 16.1kkilometers
  • 13.4kkilometers
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  • TravelerAntarctica 2023
    Day 10

    Lumier Channel

    January 7, 2023, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌧 2 °C

    Another wake up call from Mario to start the day (though he did say that for those of us who stayed up a little bit later we could have another hour in bed).

    After a shower, another announcement got me moving as Orca's had been spotted off the boat. After quickly throwing on some clothes we ventured out onto the front deck where we were able to see the most interesting show. A pod/congregation of over 30 Orca's with 1 humpback. Whilst on deck there was lots of speculation - were the killer whales trying to take down the humpback? Sarah our resident whale expert was just as shocked having not seen this behaviour in person before.

    Once back inside the expedition guides were able to confirm that the killer whales we saw were type 2 and therefore not trying to kill the humpback. In fact, the humpback was trying to chase the killer whales away. Either way, what a show!

    We then headed to the Lumier channel, the narrowest part of our journey where the closest points are 700m apart. The blizzard is back and it is very cold and wet outside - keeping our fingers crossed that the weather clears and we can make it out later today!

    Well... Yes we did (at the very limit of wind speeds and swells that they are allowed to take us out in). It was a bumpy ride over to a small island where there were 20+ colonies of adellie penguins (most of the crews favourite type). And, for the first time we were able to catch a glimpse of the little baby penguins who were huddled under their parents trying to keep dry and warm (getting wet is one of the largest killers of baby penguins who aren't yet waterproofed). We were even lucky enough to see the change over of parents for one noisy little chick 😍

    Back on board, some of us headed to the sauna to dry off and warm up before dinner, some games and karaoke.

    Time is so confusing here as it is only dark for a couple of hours a day so once again, we stayed up a little bit later than intended...    Read more

  • TravelerAntarctica 2023
    Day 11

    Orcas!

    January 8, 2023, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌧 1 °C

    Today, we finally got perfectly calm weather and we were able to head out on in the kayaks! It was worth the wait. As soon as we got into the water, without the noises of the zodiacs we could see penguins jumping in the water a few feet away from us.

    We were able to circle a small island that had a tonne of Weddell seals. We were also lucky enough to see Weddell seals lying on some bergy bits (legit what the small pieces of icebergs - approximately table size - are called) and the piece de resistance - a leapard seal that came up to us in our kayaks! 🦭

    I can't explain how peaceful and amazing kayaking is here. The wildlife seemed completely unfazed by us paddling on by.

    In the afternoon we were able to head out in the kayaks again, pushing through some brash ice and seeing more penguins and seals.

    In the evening, we were hopeful that we may get our chance to go camping but unfortunately the weather was not in our favour and camping was a no go. Back to the bar instead where Jay soothed our woes with drinks and the disposable camera was bought out (much to people's amusement. A number of people had to be told they had to wind the camera on manually 😂)

    Ps. How do you keep your cocktails cool in Antarctica? Bits of iceberg of course!    Read more

  • TravelerAntarctica 2023
    1
    Day 12

    Deception island

    January 9, 2023 in Antarctica ⋅ 🌧 1 °C

    You can tell we are back to less calm waters as my original wake up call was the waves at 4.30am. We did however wake up dry and safe on board the ship, which we were told would not have been the case if we had gone camping (the storm winds would have been around 65mph at the planned campsite). However, every cloud has a silver lining and as we were able to travel through the night, at about 7.30am we arrived at deception island. Originally a whaling site that was occupied during the summer months, it later became a research site. The UK established several research bases here during world war 2 as they were worried that the Nazi's would set up base here instead. (Other counties including Chile also established base here). As deception Island is an active volcano, both Chile and UK research stations were eventually abandoned after 2 eruptions occured during the space of 2 years.

    At deception we were able to take some walks to view points and walk around the abandoned buildings which were essentially a time capsule. We also were lucky enough to see more penguins and a leapard seal (uncommon as in the antarctic they are more likely to lay on ice than a beach). If you put your hands into the sand or water you could feel the heat from the magma below the surface.

    After some lunch, and a change in location (to cooler waters) we were able to take part in a polar plunge. One by one we were attached to a waist strap and we were able to take a jump off the gangway into the Antarctic ocean. It probably goes without saying that it was cold...
    Parker, Shelby and I stayed in the mudroom still in our swimming costumes and wrapped in a towel to be cheerleaders for every single person that jumped (we think it was over 100).

    After that, it was to the recap and next day brief. Sadly, we are now about to head back and expect to hit the drake crossing tonight (it's not looking as nice as the way out). However, for or cheerleading duties earlier in the day, the crew also gave us two free bottles of wine. TBC how Dramamine and wine mixes, could be good, could be not so good!

    Evening activities involved a quick quiz, a game of antarctic two truths and one lie (do you know what a lurker is? Or doomix?) And then to the bar for the ship band!

    Tomorrow is a drake day so my hopes are not high, but at the same time, I'd give anything (even the drake) to stay on this adventure for a little bit longer!    Read more

  • TravelerAntarctica 2023
    Day 13

    The Drake Shake

    January 10, 2023, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 3 °C

    Hello to the Drake Passage. Whilst considerably worse than our first crossing, apparently it can still get a lot worse than this.
    The night consisted of not a lot of sleep. Hangers rattling, things falling off the side, feeling yourself slide up and down the bed.

    The crew broke 1/3 of their plates before breakfast even started being served. At breakfast people were barely managing to get to their tables with their food, some had to be stopped from falling off their chairs by crew members. Plates flew and at one point a giant knife flew towards some of the guests (not remotely terrifying).

    Moral is a bit low today as we hunker in for lectures and some rocking and rolling from the drake for the day.

    We still made it to the bar before bed but only 2 before the sleeping pills kicked in!    Read more

  • TravelerAntarctica 2023
    Day 14

    Last day aboard

    January 11, 2023, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 8 °C

    The last day on the ship 😭😭😭

    Today we have our last lectures as we head up the beagle channel before information and getting off. The sadness is real.

    However, the bar is not closed yet. Time for the captain's fairwell, final recap and the raffle.

    We might be able to get off the ship tonight and head to a bar in Ushuaia but there is some debate as to whether we want to or whether we want to spend our final note in the polar bear bar on board where hopefully Craig has finished writing the song 'I like whales'

    Amendment... Craig did not finish I like whales but had written a complete song of his own about our trip.

    Many drinks were had (too many), tears were shed, more dancing occurred.

    Heads will be sore tomorrow.    Read more

  • TravelerAntarctica 2023
    Day 15

    Landsickness

    January 12, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Oh the regret when Mario's voice beams through at 6.15 to wake you up and most of the ship went to bed between 3-4...

    A quick breakfast before so many hugs and final hugs with so many of the passengers and the crew 😭

    A few of us decided that rather than mope about with our hangovers we would head back to Tierra Del Fuego to walk it off. Easier said than done with a combination of a hangover and trying to find your land legs again whilst scrambling over rocks. It was however a gorgeous walk and by the time we had to head back for our flights, we were feeling slightly better.

    The rest of the day was no fun with the tiniest airport, a 3 and a half hour flight and then finally checking into our hotel for Buenos Aires at midnight before our final flights home tomorrow.

    I can't quite comprehend that the trip is nearly over, let alone that I have just spent the last two weeks exploring the Antarctic 🤯    Read more

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