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Camino de Santiago
  • Mme Jojo
Aug – Nov 2016

Camino de Santiago

A 81-day adventure by Mme Read more
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  • Mme JojoCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    2

    Day 27: Flavignac - La Coquille

    September 8, 2016 in France ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Distance: 29.5 (639.9/1230.4)
    Weather: 24C, Drizzle in the morning, later warm
    Mood: Getting a little bored...
    Blisters: 0
    Staying at: Camping Le Perigord Vert

    Why we walk the camino

    Walking the camino is a real effort and requires time and dedication and even more so discipline to see it through to the end. You only get such dedication through real motivation, so why do we walk the camino?
    I have observed sofar that there are two broad groups, group one consists of the pensionados who just love walking and think even 800k+ is a fun distance to walk. Group 2 are the "lost and searching" . These people have either lost something or are looking for something and in most cases both. I have tested my theory and it seems to work.
    Lisel and the couple from Twente are members of the first group and the others I met are all in group two.
    One of them lost his very successful travel business just before he was ready to retire and he walks to disconnect and find some peace and sanity in his new more simple life.
    Another camino-goer was addicted to drugs and felt this could be a way out of that way of living, they have lost themselves...
    Another person wants to change professions after a year of sickness and other troubles and is looking for insight and just being away from it all.
    Everybody in group two has a story and they tend to be heartbreaking and breathtaking.
    My story is much less extreme, yet everyone I meet seems to recognise mine. I lost my paradigms for success and happiness, which has knocked me off balance and am looking to regain some balance through this camino.    Read more

  • Mme JojoCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Day 28 & 29: La Coquille - Thiviers

    September 11, 2016 in France ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Distance: 18.5 & rest day (658.4/1211.9)
    Weather: 27C, sunny
    Mood: Very good
    Blisters: 0, but left heel a little painful
    Staying at: Le petite maison (Nantiath)

    Marc came by for another long weekend and this time he walked with me on Friday and he will walk with me again on Sunday.
    We spent Friday eve and Saturday in Nantiath and stayed in a very cute little house I found on airbnb. My feet were happy with the rest and my heart was happy with the company 🙂    Read more

  • Mme JojoCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Day 32: Saint-Astier - Mussidan

    September 13, 2016 in France ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    Distance: 25.5k (712.2/1158.1)
    Weather: 35C, sunny an way too hot
    Mood: overheated
    Blisters: 0
    Staying at: Refuge Municipal

    I know it's been quiet on my little blog. That's just because I had some amazing days with Marc (we "glamped" at an amazing Huttopia campsite, which was just wonderful) and of course I met another Dutch polgrim after that weekend and I've been making long days, so time is limited in the evenings.
    I'm doing well and my feet are getting stronger every day, especially now that I am wearing my sandals more. The daily routine is starting to get a little boring, but I might write more about that later on this week.
    Btw, I'm in a tiny municipal refuge with five other people and a dog. She's the quietest dog of this camino sofar (something else I could write about another day) . Ok bedtime for me!    Read more

  • Mme JojoCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Day 33: Mussidan - Port-Saint-Foy

    September 14, 2016 in France ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Distance: 33k (745.2/1125.1)
    Weather: 19C, rain in the afternoon
    Mood: wet, but strong and satisfied
    Blisters: 0
    Staying at: Refuge Municipal (a very nice one!)

    The tide is turning

    The sky turned dark grey last night and within a minute there were gusts of wind and we were running inside with out laundry and chairs, finally the relief of the heat had arrived. A night of wind, rain and some thunderstorms and I knew this was going to change the tide for me.
    How lovely the coolness of the wet earth and grass felt and smelt. Like a fresh spring day. The storm had done some damage, including a tree that had fallen on an electricity cable and was close to burning...
    Suddenly it felt like I could walk forever and thanks to my magic sandles (I know sis, they don't look cool, but the camino ain't about looks) my feet no longer hurt and 30+ on a cooler day is suddenly easy.
    Great company of Irma and Lucien led to lots of laughing and even and hour of rain and muddy paths couldn't get to us. We laughed and we walked and we arrived at a fabulous refuge, with the best shower ever, comfy beds and pizza!
    What a perfect day...    Read more

  • Mme JojoCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    1

    Day 34: Port-Saint-Foy - Pellegrue

    September 15, 2016 in France ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Distance: 21.7k (766.9/1103.4)
    Weather: 19C, some clouds and a cool breeze
    Mood: we ate pancakes for dinner, so fabulous
    Blisters: 0
    Staying at: Gite Municipal

    The three musketeers

    What a fun day, we laughed, we walked, we camimo-gossiped (it really exists), we complained about our pains and provided each other with support and advice and then we laughed even more. How great it is to be in good company. On the way we met Yvette, a very sweet 87 year old woman who kept giving us peaches and tomatoes and showed us her prehistoric stone collection. We felt blessed to have met her, she did the camino twice... by car and I think she didn't really want us to go.
    We drank beers Chez Mireille and did groceries feeling slightly tipsy. I attempted to bake pancakes (see picture), but luckily Irma saved the day and showed me how to bake proper pancakes.
    It was the day of the three musketeers!    Read more

  • Mme JojoCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Day 36: La Reole - Bazas

    September 17, 2016 in France ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Distance: 36.8k - 10k shortcut (829.4/1013. 6)
    Weather : 21C, sunny and a bit windy
    Mood: OK, but not my best of days (snake in my sandle and fell and hurt my toe!)
    Blisters: 1
    Staying at: Airbnb

    When things get too easy

    Walking was just becoming a bit too easy with my super sandles, so St Jacques gave me a few challenges today. First of all the day started a bit sad as we said goodbye to Irma. It's amazing how quickly you can start to feel attached to people.
    Halfway through our secret shortcut I noticed something in my sandle and I promised it was a little grey snake.... EEEEEK! I tried to shake it off, but it got stuck in my sandle, so I had to pull it out. He didn't really bite me and he wasn't poisonous (confirmed by a friendly local and my current state). Apparently, I didn't even yell, but I did feel a rush of adrenaline.
    Last, but not least when I was about a km from the final destination, I saw a firetruck and fell at the side of the road... (I've ways had a weak spot for firemen 😉). Nothing too serious, but I think I may have lightly sprained a toe, oops!
    Oh well, I felt a bit grumpy at some point, but Luciens motivating words and a burger with chips have resolved this without a problem!
    Maybe tomorrow I will take it a little easy 🙂    Read more

  • Mme JojoCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Day 37: Captieux - Bourriot-Bergonce

    September 20, 2016 in France ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Distance: 21k (867.7/975.3)
    Weather : 22C, some clouds some sun
    Mood: Needy
    Blisters: 1
    Staying at: Gite La Maillade

    It's the little things

    So that toe actually really hurt quite a lot and it "forced" me to say goodbye to the guys I was walking with. I didn't want to feel like a burden, slow them down and I also really wanted some quiet time again. Boy, did I have a low point later in the day. I felt trapped by the camino, cause walking hurt and there was no place nearby to go.
    But of course there was... I manned up and walked 5 more kms to the only sleeping option between Bazas and Roquefort (my plan was to walk the full 35k) and there I found a large Gite all to myself.
    I called it not so luxurious, but spacious to one of my fellow pilgrims, but I didn't get it yet. The Gite had all the little conveniences you miss on the road. A sofa, a washing machine, a bedroom and house to myself, Good WiFi, real towels and a bath.... After I watched a movie in the bath, at 7.30 the lady brought me a cooked dinner. I made a fire in the fireplace, caught up with family (over the excellent wifi) and fell asleep like a baby. As a pilgrim you do really learn to appreciate the little things again. Now, bring on the next stop, cause my halfway point and Spain are getting very close...    Read more

  • Mme JojoCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Day 39: Chemin Vert - Saint-Sever

    September 22, 2016 in France ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Distance: 31k (925/918)
    Weather: 25C, foggy then sunny
    Mood: A bit flat and tired
    Blisters: 0
    Staying at: Refuge Municipal

    The halfway point

    What was supposed to be a day of pride at being halfway, became a drag. The toe was bothering me and prevented me from wearing my magic sandals for too long, which means I have to wear my boots which make my feet feel hurt and tired at the end of the day. Somehow, I haven't quite learned to accept that things can change and control doesn't exist...
    My big brother put it well when he messaged me to let go of all expectations and just walk, so I try and now and again there are glimmers of progress in that area.
    Luckily my hard work of the day was rewarded when I saw an old friend in town. We drank wine, had pizza and laughed and soon the hardship of the day was forgotten...    Read more

  • Mme JojoCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Day 40: Saint-Sever - Hagetemau

    September 25, 2016 in France ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Distance: 16k (941/898.3)
    Weather: 25C, foggy then sunny
    Mood: Pretty relaxed
    Blisters: 0
    Staying at: Refuge Municipal

    A pretty laid-back day, walking with French fellow pilgrim Joseph. With only 16km to walk, I felt I was giving my poorly toe a rest. Joseph was going to walk further, but he surprised me later in the afternoon having decided to stay and he even cooked a lovely couscous for me. Luxury of washer an dryer and normal beds was also highly appreciated at only 5,50 a night!
    And very late that night Marc joined me, a good start of day 41...    Read more

  • Mme JojoCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Day 41&42: Hagetemau - Orthez + Restday

    September 25, 2016 in France ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Distance: 18.5k (+ 8.2 by car) (943.5/848.3)
    Weather: 27C, sunny
    Mood: Toe-struggle at first, extatic later
    Blisters: 0
    Staying at: Domaine Peyroutic

    Special encounters

    There are these meetings with other people that just feel so intense and special, you think they will stay with you forever.
    Marc and I treated ourselves with a bit of Luxury in The Campagne at the house of Laurence and Henry and their 4 little dogs. Laurence's welcome was warm and quickly we decided we would stay for dinner (without even knowing the price, how wild!) The 98 year old (but still so vital) Henry showered me with his charm and his stories about his days as a fighter pilot, fashion designer, inventor and hotel owner in the Caribbean (in a combination of French and broken english) while Laurence entertained Marc. Wine was superfluous, the food was delicious and we had to try various liquors to finish the feast. We felt we really connected with these people, which we couldn't completely understand due to the language and difference in background. A beautiful night, which will remain a great memory for life.
    The other meeting was with an entrepreneur who had just bought private clinic in Orthez. He picked us up from the side of the road (my first hitch hiking experienced) and drove us back to Hagetemau where he bought us a coffee as well!
    After these special encounters, lots of time in the sun, little dog cuddles and quality time with Marc I feel truly recharged!    Read more

  • Mme JojoCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    1

    Day 43: Orthez - Sauveterre-de-Béarn

    September 25, 2016 in France ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Distance: 22.7 (966.2/825.6)
    Weather: 21C, heavy rain (which we sat out in the car, then cloudy and patchy rain)
    Mood: Better!
    Blisters: 0
    Staying at: Gite de Sauveterre

  • Mme JojoCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Day 44: Sauveterre-de-Béarn - Ostabat

    September 28, 2016 in France ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Distance: 26.3k (992.5/799.3)
    Weather: 25C and sunny
    Mood: Good
    Blisters: 0
    Staying at: Gite Aireona

    On probably the most scenic walk of the camino, we (Irma, Marc and I) started to encounter more and more pilgrims and to be honest, it didn't fill us with much excitement. Three main routes come together just before Ostabat and little groups of mainly female pensionados are crowding the route.
    Irma and I once again discussed switching to Del Norte, which is much quieter. Even the atmosphere in the perfectly lovely Gite was different. More distant, less interaction... Not our kind of way...    Read more

  • Mme JojoCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Day 45: Ostabat - Irun

    September 28, 2016 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Distance: 22.5 (1115/835) St-JPdP to Irun by car
    Weather: 25C, foggy, sunny, then rainy!
    Mood: Mixed emotions
    Blisters: 0
    Staying at: Hotel Bowling

    Another big decision

    I can feel how the tension was mounting with my previous post, is she going to do it or not...?! And of course I did. I'm walking the camino for a bit of enjoyment as well and the crowds on the Camino Frances were just making me feel a bit sick (Just watch the film The Way if you want to get an idea of it, though it's not Sheen's best).
    And so, after another eventful hiking day, including a bus ride and Marc saving a kitten from inside a wooden wall (hero 🙂) Marc drove me to Irun in Spain. I skipped the big day 1 of the camino Frances (1100m ascent over 20km), I skipped St-Jean-Pied-de-Port (not even a stamp in my pilgrim passport!), I missed saying goodbye to Irma (who I have grown quite fond of) and I skipped the classic with its crowds.
    Irun treated us to traffic jams, pretty relentless rain and a pension booking without a room for a minute I wondered if I made the right choice.. However, the bustle of the city in the little bars and shops the presence of actual lattes and a bargain meal made me feel at home quite quickly. And now I get to practice my Spanish!
    Saying goodbye to Marc was strangely a bit easier thus time. Next time I see him will be in about five weeks in Santiago.
    Other important news:
    * I reached 1000km
    * My new to walk kms have grown a bit as the Norte is 40-50 km longer
    * My toe is healing well    Read more

  • Mme JojoCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    1

    Day 46: Irun - Ulia

    September 28, 2016 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    Distance: 25.9 (1140.9/809.1)
    Weather: 23C
    Mood: Lovely
    Blisters: 0
    Staying at: Ulia youth hostel

  • Mme JojoCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Day 47: Ulia - Zumaia

    September 29, 2016 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Distance: 33.5 (1174.4/805.6)
    Weather: 27C, sunny and windy
    Mood: lonesome
    Blisters: 0
    Staying at: Zumaia Pilgrims hostel

    Ask for solitude and you get...

    Loneliness... Today I felt alone in the most beautiful scenery. My feet no longer hurt and the walking is going well. I enjoy the more challenging climbs here and there are plenty of options on the way to enjoy the nice Spanish food, lattes and frappes. Still, instead of joy, gratitude or even just chilled out, I was overcome by a feeling of loneliness this morning. Why now? I have been walking for so long and many days alone.
    I was thinking about what will happen when I get back home and I noticed that I am really longing for a "normal" life again, with some sort of work and my own place to live (and the same comfy bed every night and real towels, yay!). Without these things, I struggle to feel my identity and maybe that's starting to make me feel a bit lonely too.
    Luckily a few nice ladies at home cheered me up with their virtual company (thanks Nicole, Sharon and Jolka!) and soon I was engrossed in the waking again, step by step by step.
    Tomorrow I have a bit of a tough choice to make, walk 35k with a really challenging climb at the end or walk only 20k and do the climb tomorrow... in the rain. Opinions can be shared on the discussion board 😉    Read more

  • Mme JojoCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    1

    Day 48: Zumaia - Markina

    October 1, 2016 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Distance: 35.7 (1210.1/769.9)
    Weather: 25C, sunny and cloudy later
    Mood: Strong and happy!
    Blisters: 0
    Staying at: Pitis Hostel

    In awe of nature!

    This was definitely the most beautiful landscape I've seen sofar and at the same time the physically most challenging walk. Up and down and up and down for about 1600m up and down again over 32km (I found an ingenious shortcut again, but soon steep!)
    I was joined by the German Eva, Lithuanian Justin as and Korean Pacman (not his real name). We took the alternative coast route, which led to the stunning views of Flysch cause by erosion of the sea. My German ebook mentioned the track, but warned it was difficult and no other guide indicated that e it in any way and believe me... It was HARD! I don't think I've ever sweated so much, but it was worth it.
    Unfortunately, we still had another difficult part to go, a 500m climb and a very steep descent... About 9km before the endpoint we met some German guys, who were shocked to hear we were doing in one day what they were planing for two days. They said those 9km took them 6 hours and we only had 4 till sunset!
    Of course we made it just before the last daylight had faded and a choir received us into town with some singing. Out spirits and energy were so high that even a full hostel couldn't put a damper on the mood. We were strong, powerful and unstoppable! An unforgettable day on my camino, that taught me how lows can easily be followed by highs and that a human body can do so much more than we think....    Read more

  • Mme JojoCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    2

    Day 50: Gernika-Lumo - Bilbao

    October 3, 2016 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    Distance: 30.5k (1265.4/713)
    Weather: 22C, perfect hiking weather
    Mood: easy going
    Blisters: 0
    Staying at: Central Hostel

  • Mme JojoCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    1

    Day 51: Bilbao - Castro Urdiales

    October 3, 2016 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Distance: 30k (1295.4/663.5)
    Weather: 27C, sunny and warm
    Mood: bit emotional and tired
    Blisters: 0
    Staying at: Aqua Via H & Spa Hotel

    Up and down

    Just like this route moves up and down (and I truly believe it's harder than the Camino Frances!), so does my mood. Bilbao didn't help, being such a big city with so many noises and people, in contrast to the stillness of my walk.
    I had a look at the amazing shapes of the Guggenheim museum in the early morning sunlight and then took the metro to Portugalete (inspired by a German mother and son) to avoid some of the industrial areas of the city. But even here I found uninspiring and industrial buildings, including a crazy cycle highway over the main roads. The landscape slowly worked on my mood and my legs felt tired.
    After a little climb (I now regard 180m as little) I rested on a bench and met Sonia from Romania, living in Germany. It was just what I needed. We had some good chats and laughed at the many similarities between us. The highlight was encountering a large truck with both a Dutch and a Romanian numberplate at a petrol station. We thought this was the most brilliant thing, but the grumpy guy being the counter was oblivious to this and demanded us to take of out backpacks but fire getting in. How beautiful these contrasts are!
    We ate our ice-creams while walking a pretty big main road (bit crazy to walk here if you ask me) and enjoyed the last of the sun.
    It was starting to get late and if there's one thing I haven't quite been able to let go, it's the need for a safe place to sleep, so I was getting a little nervous. No need though, as we slept at a lively little spa hotel and even caught a rise there for the last 1km. I slept like a baby! It was a memorable day of ups and downs...    Read more

  • Mme JojoCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    1112

    Day 52: Castro Urdiales - Liendo

    October 4, 2016 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Distance: 24.5 (1320.4/638.9)
    Weather: 23C, sunny with a sea breeze
    Mood: Better
    Staying at: Posada La Torre de La Quintana

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