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Camino de Santiago
  • Mme Jojo
  • Mme Jojo

Camino de Santiago

A 81-day adventure by Mme Read more
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  • Mme JojoCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Day 54: Guemes - Boo de Pielagos

    October 6, 2016 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    Distance: 20k (+9 by train) (1375.9/561)
    Weather: 21C, little rain first then sunny
    Mood: Upbeat
    Staying at: Piedad Hostel

    Give me a break

    Today I finally took it a little easier and it felt great. I still got up early and I made sure to walk alone for the first but, so I could call Marc and just enjoy the walk by myself.
    Despite the long walk my legs felt good and soon I reached the stunning coastline before Santander. I took a break for some food while watching the sea. Many nervous pilgrims overtook me at a hasty pace. I assume cause they were worried not to get a bed at the next Alberge.
    It felt like a big waking competition and it made me smile a little. I decided to take a break and took the train from Santander to a village 10km further and walked another 5k. This way I broke free from The crowd that had gathered at Guemes, but more importantly it gave me a much needed mental and physical break and I am smiling again. Tomorrow I'll walk alone again...    Read more

  • Mme JojoCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Day 56: Caborrendondo - Los Llaos

    October 8, 2016 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Distance: 24k (1426.9/501)
    Weather: 19C, Mostly overcast
    Mood: calm
    Staying at: Hotel Gerra Mayor

    The joy of a real towel...

    The view of a real towel can really make my day now and I think I dream about large piles of multicoloured, fluffy towels every night. I recommend hostels to other pilgrims when they have towels and I nearly jumped for joy when the hotel I'm staying in tonight had four towels all for me!!!
    It's amazing how perspective changes when one is on a journey so long. The kilometers don't count as much anymore, my feet and body have grown strong. But the longing for basic comforts has increased significantly and it makes me realise what an amazingly easy and comfortable life we lead.
    Someone said that the difference between a pilgrim and a tourist is that a pilgrim thanks you. Pilgrims are genuinely grateful, because they realise the pleasure of simple things and gestures again.
    So my friends, look around and appreciate and be grateful for what you have. We lead a life of luxury and we keep forgetting about this.    Read more

  • Mme JojoCamino de SantiagoTraveler
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    Day 58: Pendueles - Neuva

    October 11, 2016 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    Distance: 33.8k (1491.7/406.2)
    Weather: 21C, sunny
    Mood: calm
    Staying at: Hotel Luna del Valle

    Walking alone

    The last few days I have reached a point where I genuinely prefer to walk alone. Before I started this journey I didn't really think about a preference, but I learnt that walking with other people can be easier. You chat and no longer think about time or distance or even fatigue and pain. On your own you need to just deal with it and move along.
    Yesterday I enjoyed walking most of the day by myself, in a newfound calmness. Just enjoying the landscape and sometimes listening to an audiobook or some music. I can walk my own tempo, break when I want and mostly just be with myself. Sometimes I feel a bit sad, which apparently is quite common for pilgrims, but I just let it be and keep walking. It doesn't turn into loneliness anymore... Strong body, strong mind?    Read more

  • Mme JojoCamino de SantiagoTraveler
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    Day 59: Nueva - La Vega

    October 11, 2016 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Distance: 20.4k (1512.1/385.8)
    Weather: 21C, sunny but very chilly in the evening!
    Mood: calm
    Staying at: Alberge Tu Casa

    Autumn has arrived!

    Another milestone achieved today, 1500km walked and what's left is starting to seem small. I can't help but enjoy the question where I started my camino or how many days I have walked. Here in Spain I'm an anomaly and I've always had a soft spot for standing out.
    After so many lovely sunny days, autumn seems to have arrived here too. I spent some time in the sun on the beach this afternoon, but now I'm huddled up on the couch in the hospitalera's jumper with a cup of tea (see pic). It's freezing here!!! What a contrast to the past weeks. And tomorrow the rain will come, so finally a good chance to rest how waterproof my new raincoat is 😉    Read more

  • Mme JojoCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Day 60: La Vega - Sebrayo

    October 13, 2016 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Distance: 23.7(1535.8/362.1)
    Weather: 21C, sunny and cloudy at times
    Mood: good
    Staying at: Sebrayo Pilgrims Hostel

    Yesterday I wrote so convinced that I preferred wrong alone and of course I stumbled into some company yesterday with whom I walked the rest of the day. I met a lovely young couple from Gent, Belgium who've walked all the way from there and mostly the same route as I. They both had very inspiring stories and we exchanged worldviews and ate together and really connected. The way seems to be able to give you what you're not expecting!Read more

  • Mme JojoCamino de SantiagoTraveler
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    Day 62: Vega de Sariego - Oviedo

    October 14, 2016 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    Distance: 23 + 5 by car (1580.8/312.7)
    Weather: 22C, abundant sunshine
    Mood: loved and spoilt
    Staying at: Hotel & Spa Princesa Munia

    Let de classic begin!

    Yesterday night I fell asleep slightly overheated due to stress over bedbug panic. Martijn from Belgium was sure he'd seen bedbug traces and so all four of us felt slightly stressed as Mieke also from Belgium read out all you need to know about bedbugs. I was a bit affected by this as I'd already heard three stories of people who had had bedbugs and its no joy...
    Luckily, sofar so good and this morning I got up before dawn and walked towards Oviedo, my last stop on the Camino de Norte. I drank coffee in the last town before Oviedo and intended to take the train there to avoid the walk along the main roads, but a lovely man named Jesus in the bar offered me a lift in his coche.
    Here I checked into a way too luxurious and way too expensive hotel with a large double bed, lots of towels and a bubble bath... I wanted to treat myself one more time before the mountains and the promise of a primitive way.
    The camino primitivo is the first ever camino and I really feel the Spanish regard it as a bit more special than the rest. It's rather mountainous, but I feel strong and ready for a change and a challenge!
    I had lots of time, so I wandered the streets of Oviedo and bought some new outdoor gear and a new credencial. What a wonderful city and what a spoilt and happy girl I am. Can't wait for the beaty that awaits tomorrow!    Read more

  • Mme JojoCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Day 65: Bodenaya - Tineo

    October 17, 2016 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Distance: 12.6 (1649.8/243.7)
    Weather: 15C, consistent drizzle
    Mood: Relaxed in solitude
    Staying at: Palacio de Meras Hotel

    No picture day

    Wow, no pictures today... Probably mainly thanks to the drizzle and short walk today. I was going so fast, that today I opted for a short walk to the town Tineo, which has a four star hotel with a pilgrim Alberge, which has a sauna! I just used it and it was rather lovely.
    Just like last night, after a great day of walking (31k never felt so easy and uphill!) I arrived with Emma from Brighton at the most memorable Alberge of the camino, Bodenaya. It was recommended to me by many and I instantly understood as I entered the small, but cozy room that was nice and warm because of a wood fire and felt like my home for that one night. The atmosphere was buzzing and grateful, we ate and dream together and afterwards we feel asleep Vert content with our hearts and bellies filled.
    I said goodbye to the small group I walked with for the day and had a bit of a duvet afternoon. Getting my body prepared before the big climbs of the the coming day...    Read more

  • Mme JojoCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Day 67: Borres - Berducedo

    October 19, 2016 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 32 °C

    Distance: 28.7 (1694.2/199.2)
    Weather: 13C, ultra foggy, later a bit of sun
    Mood: strong
    Staying at: Camino Primitivo Hostel

    Despite the fog...

    Today was an ultra, super foggy day and still I went up the mountain. I guess I was hoping for a view, which came but only after the easier route joined mine. It was cold, windy, wet and I couldn't see a friggin thing for about two hours, but still... Despite the fog I enjoyed my walk and in contrast to most other pilgrims arriving today I'm not tired. I'm super strong 🤓
    I'm in a good mood, because I'm starting to smell Santiago. The end of the camino is in sight and I'm happy for it. Many new people joined the way in Oviedo and are going through their first days struggles. It's great to realise I'm so far past that, yet I'm not feeling bored or annoyed.
    Of course the girls who kept chatting late last night and again early this am and kept leaving the doors open irritated me a little, but only for a little while. They just don't know better and I do. And for that I'm grateful. I'm clearly still in my zen zone... despite the fog...    Read more

  • Mme JojoCamino de SantiagoTraveler
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    Day 69: Grandas de Salime - Fonsagrada

    October 21, 2016 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    Distance: 25.4 (1738.9/154.5)
    Weather: 19C and super sunny!!!
    Mood: happy
    Staying at: Cantabrico Hostel

    Today I reached the border between Asturias en Galcia and so I enter the last region of Spain on my camino. The landscape in Asturias was amazing, green, mountainous, lush and even at times fjord like. Galcia will be less hilly and today was the last 1000m+ mountain. I will miss them, those hills and I haven't found them particularly difficult.
    Walking here is so different from France and even from Del Norte as here I keep bumping into the same people and sometimes it really feels like seeing your family again. A familiar face can mean a lot at the end of another day of walking. It also means you cannot avoid the people you don't want to see though... But in my zen state of the past two weeks it can't really bother me.
    I just keep enjoying the little pleasures, like a hostel with really towels and super comfy beds and amazing showers. And of course the potential bedbug bites I discovered... All my clothes are in the washer en my bag is spending the night in a binbag with some very smelly spray.... Poor thing!    Read more

  • Mme JojoCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Day 70: Fonsagrada - Castroverde

    October 22, 2016 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    Distance: 32.3 (1745.8/122.4)
    Weather: 16C, Mostly cloudy, Drizzle at times
    Mood: buzzing
    Staying at: Castroverde Pilgrims Hostel

    Bugs....
    Ten weeks today!!! I was going to write something rather philosophical about how hills can work amazing to process emotions, but my thoughts were distracted by bedbugs again. I know, AGAIN! Yesterday I was pretty chilled about it, for all my clothes washed and dried and my backpack sprayed and sprinkled tea tree oil everywhere.
    I only had two vague bites and one of the older women in the hostel said she didn't think they were from bbs. It's funny how everyone is suddenly an expert when these things happen. I'd read up on these nasty little monsters and was pretty sure I recognised the bites.
    However, this afternoon I felt some new itchy bites and I think one of them just really liked the taste of my blood or wanted to travel to Castroverde... So, after arriving late I got absolutely everything that bbs could reside in (incl. my kindle cover and washbag), stripped down to my undies and raincoat and repeated the washing-drying ritual. While this was going own I walked around in my raincoat and ate my dinner and just laughed about it with my pilgrim family (it's really the same little group now every night, mainly spanish).
    And now, I'm lying all tea tree ed oiled in my bed, pretty exhausted and I really really hope this was the last of them... A day in the life of a pilgrim ☺️    Read more

  • Mme JojoCamino de SantiagoTraveler
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    Day 71 & 72: Castroverde - Lugo

    October 24, 2016 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    Distance: 22.5 (1768.3/99.8)
    Weather: 16C, some sun bit chilly!
    Mood: A but mixed
    Staying at: Lucus Hostal

    Today, I'm not a pilgrim but a tourist in the capital of Galcia, Lugo. I've become so good at being a pilgrim that I nearly forgot how lousy I am at being a solo tourist. I'm feeling a little lost and out of place amongst all these people who are just going about their day. I ask about a route variation in the camino interpretation centre, but am turned away as it's not the real camino and therefore not part of their scope...
    The students at the table next to me are quizzing each other on German words and grammar. It makes me smile. I just read an article on how repetition is far from the most effective way to learn, but this may not be the time to tell them.
    Feeling out of place here makes me question what is my place in this world and it makes me miss my loved ones. I'm a doer, a problem solver, not a quiet observer and I feel such a strong need to add some value to this world again.
    I stumble upon a fellow pilgrim asks me for help on deciding what to do the next days. I use the knowledge I gained on route variations, onward walks and busses from Santiago and I leave him satisfied with a number of alternatives to choose from. And I... am happy again cause I was able to add some value.
    The day ends with a reunion with another peregrina. We share food, a glass of red wine and stories about love, work, travel and life after the camino. We agree that the tougher days like today and at times being uneasy is good for reflection and learning. It's these days that make us grow.    Read more

  • Mme JojoCamino de SantiagoTraveler
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    Day 74: San Roman d Retorta - As Seixas

    October 26, 2016 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Distance: 15.1 (1801.7/66.5)
    Weather: 24C, bright and sunny
    Mood: Fine, bit of a headache though
    Staying at: As Seixas Pilgrims Hostel

    Is it bad that I long so much for my arrival in Santiago? The days have started to be so much alike and I notice that many of my thoughts are connected to arriving in Santiago, being reunited with Marc, the walk we have planned for after (Muxia, then Fisterra) and maybe most of all picking up my real life when I get back to the Netherlands .
    I seem to be one of the few people who is looking forward to the end so much. And it's not that I dislike the walking or hate the hostels and lack of real towels. I have found my peace in the routine, but I crave for the next chapter, the start of my new life... The typical Aries who gets bored with one thing well before it's over....
    In the past few weeks of my zen state of mind I was able to just be in the moment and I even started to detach from the regular checking of my phone (not for contact from the outside world, but just maps, how far to go etc.), but now my mind is insistent to take me out of the moment and dream of everything in and after Santiago. It doesn't help that I've been having a pretty consistent headache for the past few days... The camino had taught me that mind and body are so connected and when the body is not in optimal form the walking becomes mentally more challenging.
    Is it bad that I long for the end...? I don't know. I think it's just how it is and it's not long now 😀    Read more

  • Mme JojoCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Day 75: As Seixas - Ribadiso

    October 27, 2016 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    Distance: 25.5 (1827.2/41.2)
    Weather: 24C, lovely sunny
    Mood: Good!
    Staying at: Ribadiso da Baixo Pilgrims hostel

    And after rain...

    A lovely and relatively easy day despite my fear of the crowds of the camino Frances, which I joined today halfway through my walk. In fact, in Melide I had coffee with a local French teacher and I got to practice my French again and it was quite fun.
    The road definitely got busier, but I just put on my music and I walked fast. I kind of enjoyed overtaking many Pilgrims who seemed surprised by my speed. I loved bumping into an old friend from the camino primitivo, just cause we could share the experience.
    Later in the large hostel I simply minded my own business, had a beer and did some crochet with my newly bought yarn and needle. An older man made a remark about it and we had a little chat. I invited myself to dinner with him (english), his Spanish French speaking brother in law and a Spanish friend of the brother in law. Dinner turned out so much fun, where at times a message had to be translated from English into French into Spanish and back. We laughed and shared experiences. Unsurprisingly they also joined from the primitivo. As if we recognised each other amidst all the Frances-ers...
    An unexpected wonderful day and now I suddenly realise it's only two nights till Santiago... Wow!    Read more

  • Mme JojoCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Day 76: Ribadiso - Pedrouzo

    October 28, 2016 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Distance: 21.9 (1848.1/19.4)
    Weather: 26C, lovely sunny
    Mood: Fast walking machine
    Staying at: Edreira Hostel

    Less than 20k left... It's really within reach now and it feels good. Today I walked with the three guys I met last night and it was a bit challenging to keep up with them for the last three km, but it did nevertheless.
    I'm feeling tired and satisfied now and am enjoying the super cozy couch in the hostel. Tomorrow I will be reunited with Marc who's been cycling some crazy distances to keep up with me ☺️ and then Santiago here we come!!!    Read more

  • Mme JojoCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Day 77: Pedrouzo - Lavacolla

    October 29, 2016 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Distance: 8.9 (1857/10.2)
    Weather: 26C, lovely sunny
    Mood: Melancholic
    Staying at: Casa Lavacolla

    The end of a chapter

    After a simple breakfast in a bar I say goodbye to my three friends (Mike, Baptise and Juan-Marie). The hug I get from Mike expresses the warm bond we've built in such a short space of time and I feel very said as I watch them walk away.
    Today I celebrate the last day of lonesome walking and it has to be done in style, by myself. I only have 9km ahead of me and I am determined to walk it as slowly as my sanity allows me. I take my first break after 3km and see many pilgrims pass by hurriedly, they have already missed the opportunity to attend the 12 o'clock mass in Santiago. I meet German flute player Nicole once again and I buy him a tea to help him achieve his 0 euro day.
    My second break is unexpectedly lovely. The people around me all seem to want to enjoy every last inch of camino left and so the atmosphere is relaxed and happy. A couple is walking with their 1.5 year old son (on the back, they're not making him walk :-) and I watch the little boy run around and play with acorns. People talk about feeling strange about this being so close to the end and I understand and share this feeling. I spend the last kms thinking about all the special people I met on the camino and feel grateful.
    And now I'm at the terrace of a local bar at my destination of the day enjoying some lovely warm rays. I'm feeling strange, happy and a bit anxious. At some point today I will be reunited with Marc and that will signify the end of and important chapter of this journey.... and I wonder, what will lie ahead of us...?    Read more

  • Mme JojoCamino de SantiagoTraveler
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    Day 78: Lavacolla - Santiago

    November 1, 2016 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    Distance: 10.2 (1867.2/0!)
    Weather: 24C, lovely sunny
    Mood: Appreciative
    Staying at: Lux Hotel

    Apologies for the late entry... A glorious day for the walk to Santiago, starting with a lazy breakfast after which we bumped into Michaela, a Slovakian girl I met on the Primitivo. It was once again special how perfect the timing was that led us to seeing her again.
    The walk was very easy and Marc and I had lots to catch up on. I felt happy and content to be arriving. The strange feeling of the end nearing had passed the day before and another four days of walking to Muxia and Fistera still were ahead of us, so no reason to feel sad or strange. We got our Compostela and Distance certificate at the Pilgrims office, a pretty post building with a security guard who takes his job a bit to seriously.
    Santiago is a lovely city and we spent time with another camino friend of mine, drank some wine and had some amazing tapas after a slightly boring Pilgrims Mass (you'd think someone would have thought of providing some kind of translation by now). Our short stay felt great and we are already looking forward to coming back here on Friday.    Read more

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