Bella Italia 2018

We headed back into Milan central today for another tourist day of checking out churches. I didn’t think I was into churches as such, but have discovered they hold so many great works of art, so much history and so many stories. And thankfully Brad has found them just as interesting.

First church for the day is the Basilica of Sant’Eustorgio and it is full of stories. The Basilica of Sant'Eustorgio is one of the oldest churches in Milan and it is believed it was founded in the 4th century.

It was for many years an important stop for pilgrims on their journey to Rome or to the Holy Land, because it was said to contain the tomb of the Three Magi or the Three Kings. In the 12th century, the relics of the Magi were appropriated and taken to Cologne. It was only in 1903/4 that fragments of the bones and garments were sent back to Sant'Eustorgio's and nowadays they are in the Three Kings altar nearby the empty Three Kings sarcophagus.

Also located inside the Basilica is the Portinari Chapel complete with its elaborate multicoloured scalloped dome, an ornate marble sepulcher and rich frescoes that include a depiction of Mary and Jesus with devil horns! Portinari Chapel was built from 1462 to 1468 and was consecrated to St. Peter of Verona, whose head rests in the elaborate marble shrine.

One such story involved St. Peter of Verona seeking to “win back” an eminent man who had converted to Catharism after seeing the Madonna at a Cathar meeting. Determined to get to the bottom of this, St. Peter attended a meeting of the same group and saw the holy mother and child but—thanks to his unerring faith—saw also that they bore horns, revealing that this was actually the devil in disguise. Thus, he offered the false apparition a piece of sacramental bread, saying, “If you are the Mother of God, adore your Son!” The devil fled and as a result, all the Cathars present returned to Catholicism.

The frescoes of this and the other events of the life of St. Peter of Verona were painted by Vincenzo Foppa and after years of neglect, they were rediscovered in the late 19th century, and restored in the early 20th century.

While this isn’t one of the biggest, brightest or “best” basilicas we have visited so far, it has amazing stories. I loved seeing the horned Madonna and child painting and the crypt beneath the church, but the most eye-catching was the beautiful dome in the chapel. Brad even lay on the floor to try and get the best photo. This was definitely worth the visit.Lue lisää