Bella Italia 2018

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Bella Italia 2018
Galleria dell' Accademia, Florence
23 września 2018, Włochy ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
First up for our first day in Florence was our booked visit to Galleria dell’ Accademia to see Michelangelo’s famous statue of David. We missed seeing this last time on our way to Pisa as I was unaware we had to pre-book our time slot and we missed out. This time I booked well in advance.

I think due to it being towards the end of the tourist season, there wasn’t a massive crowd and we were able to see David up close and personal. Everyone has heard about the Statue of David and to see it up close was amazing. It is so hard to fathom how it was sculptured from one piece of marble. At 5.17 metres high, it is an imposing figure that took Michelangelo over two years to sculpt.

The history of the statue is very interesting as I was unaware the statue had been originally started by another Italian sculptor in 1463. The Statue of David was to be part of a commission for a series of twelve large Old Testament sculptures for the buttresses of the Cathedral. In 1410 Donatello made the first statue, a figure of Joshua in terracotta and Agostino made a figure of Hercules, also in terracotta in 1463. He then began the statue of David in 1464 and was provided with a block of Carrara marble. He only got as far as beginning to shape the legs, feet and torso and roughing out some drapery. For unknown reasons his association with the project ceased in 1466. Ten years later Antonio Rossellino was commissioned to take up where Agostino had left off, but his contract was terminated soon after.

The block of marble remained neglected for 26 years in the yard of the cathedral workshop, exposed to the elements. In 1501, concerned about the cost the block of marble represented, the Opera ordered the block of stone, which they called The Giant, to be raised on its feet so that a master experienced in this kind of work might examine it and express an opinion and interest to complete it. Even though Leonardo da Vinic and others were consulted, Michelangelo, at 26 years of age, convinced the Operai that he deserved the commission. On 16 August 1501 he was given the official contract and he began carving on 13 September. This amazing statue was finally completed in 1504.

David was originally commissioned as one of a series of statues of prophets to be positioned along the roofline of the east end of the Florence Cathedral, however due to the sheer size and weight of the statue, it was instead placed in a public square outside the Palazzo Vecchio, the seat of the civic government in Florence. The statue was moved to the Galleria dell’ Accademia in 1873 and the later replaced at the original location by a replica.

The Galleria dell’ Accademia, while best known as the home of the Statue of David, also has other sculptures by Michelangelo and a large collection of paintings by Florentine artists, mostly from the period of the 1300s to the 1600s. It is so hard to fathom that we were admiring works of art that have survived the centuries in such good condition and it still surprised me how graphic some of the pieces are. Art is truly subjective.

It was a highlight finally seeing the Statue of David. A big tick off the bucket list. Czytaj więcej
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Bella Italia 2018
Piazza del Duomo, Florence
23 września 2018, Włochy ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C
While there weren’t huge crowds in the Accademia, the line ups for the Cathedral and the Baptistery were extrmely long, so we decided not to spend time in line and explored the rest of the city instead. We did however take time to admire and photograph the stunning collection of buildings, the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore (the Florence Cathedral), Giotto’s Campanile (the bell tower) and the Battistero di San Giovanni, (the Baptistery of Saint John). It is probably one of my regrets when we got home that we didn’t see inside them. Maybe we will return again. All three magnificent building are situated in Piazza del Duomo, the Cathedral Square, located in the heart of the historic centre of Florence and it is one of the most visited places in Europe.

Construction started on the Cathedral in 1296 and is was structurally completed by 1436, with the dome designed by Filippo Brunelleschi. The exterior is faced with marble panels in various shades of green and pink, bordered by white and is so unique to other Cathedrals we have seen so far. It is one of Italy’s largest churches and until the development of new structural materials in the modern era, the dome was the largest in the world. It is still the largest brick dome ever constructed. It is such a stunning building to admire and photograph.

Next to the Cathedral is the free-standing campanile, known as Giotto’s Campanile. Designed by Giotto di Bondone it was built between 1334 and 1359 and is rich with historical references and art. The Campanile has seven bells and as seven has a special meaning in Biblical sense: it symbolises human perfectibility, there are seven hexagonal panels on each side of the lower floors and references to the number seven throughout. Decorated to be in harmony with the Cathedral, at 84.7 metres tall and 14.45 metres on each side, it is a beautiful and impressive structure. One we hope to climb next time we visit.

The Baptistery is one of the oldest buildings in the city, constructed between 1059 and 1128. It is renowned for its three sets of artistically important bronze doors with relief sculptures created by Andreas Pisano and Lorenzo Ghiberti. Believed to originally be a Roman temple dedicated to Mars, the tutelary god of the old Florence, it is the third striking building in the Piazza del Duomo.

I am looking forward to our next visit when we will definitely spend some time admiring the interiors of these beautifully intricate and eye-catching structures. Czytaj więcej
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Bella Italia 2018
Mercato Nuovo, Florence
23 września 2018, Włochy ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C
We basically did our own walking tour of Florence and first on the list was the New Markets, Loggia del Mercato Nuovo. While the stalls are similar to what we have at home, the location was not. Held in a loggia built around the middle of the 16th century, it was initially intended for the sale of silk and luxury goods and then for the famous straw hats. Today mainly leather goods and souvenirs are sold. We had been told how busy the market would be and to haggle, haggle, haggle, and that we would be approached as soon as we picked an item up but that was not the case at all. The sellers were not at all interested in selling us anything. Brad was wanting to buy a belt and even Brad didn’t haggle as he really wanted it and thought they wouldn’t care if they lost the sale. Needless to say, he paid too much and even told them to keep the change. It wasn’t the experience we expected to have.

On the southern side of the markets is the bronze fountain of a boar, called Il Porcellino by the locals, which means piglet in Italian. The fountain figure was originally sculptured and cast in 1633 and intended for the Boboli Garden, however the present statue is a modern copy, cast in 1998 and replaced in 2008. Somehow this unassuming fountain has made its way onto the “things to see in Florence” list and copies of this statue can be found around the world, in the Louvre in Paris and even in a Sydney Hospital. If you didn’t know about this famous fountain, you would walk right past it and not even know it was there as it is not huge in statue and not in a prominent location.

A tradition that the Scottish literary traveller Tobias Smollett noted in 1766, and is still followed today, is for visitors to put a coin into the boar’s jaws, with the intent to let it fall through the underlying grating for good luck and then rubbing the boar’s snout to ensure a return to Florence. We made sure we followed this tradition as we would do anything to ensure a return to Italy. The coins are then given to local charities and knowing this, we were quite disgusted to see some of the locals stealing the coins. Brad even called them on it and they backed off. Czytaj więcej
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Piazza della Signoria, Florence
23 września 2018, Włochy ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C
Next stop was Piazza della Signoria, the L-shaped square in front of the Palazzo Vecchio and the political focus of the city. The buildings surrounding this square are amazing and some of the most important in the city, including the 14th century Palazzo Vecchio, the Uffizi Gallery and the Loggia della Signoria. We didn’t go into any of the buildings this time as it was quite busy but we did have a wander around. Because the Loggia is an open-air sculpture gallery of antique and Renaissance art including the Medici lions, we did get to admire and photograph the statues, along with the other imposing statues surrounding the piazza, including a copy of Michelangelo’s David, the Equestrian Monument of Cosimo I, Hercules and Cacus and the Fountain of Neptune to name a few.

Neptune’s Fountain, even though it was under restoration, what we could see through the gaps was extremely impressive. The great thing about the restoration work is the city have covered the scaffolding with the history of the fountain and it was a very interesting read. It would be great to see it fully restored and working when we return.

It is amazing to see how intricately some of the buildings have been adorned and the craftmanship and artistry of the many sculptures and statues. It is a very impressive square. Czytaj więcej
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Piazzale Michelangelo, Florence
23 września 2018, Włochy ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C
Next on the itinerary was a visit to the Piazzale Michelangelo, Michelangelo’s Square, to admire the views of the city. I had researched how to get there and even though I had worked out it would be easy enough to catch a bus, we ended up walking there, and it was a long hot walk, up lots and lots of stairs. Thankfully there were the beautiful gardens, Giardino delle Rose, halfway up where we could stop, refill our water bottles and rest before continuing. The views from here were impressive enough, so we could only image what it would be like at the top. It was a lovely much needed rest stop.

After a brief rest, onwards and upwards we climbed and thankfully the views were worth it. They were very impressive, and would be beautiful at sunset, but it was extremely hot and there was very little shade to sit and enjoy while waiting for the sun to set. The Piazzale, built in 1869, was dedicated to the famous sculptor Michelangelo, hence the title of the square, and features bronze copies of some of his marble works found elsewhere in Florence, the most famous being the statue of David. The monument is certainly impressive against the Florentine skyline.

If we ever return to Florence, we would definitely catch the bus to the top and time it so we could admire the sun setting over this historic city. Czytaj więcej
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Bella Italia 2018
Pont de Vecchio, Florence
23 września 2018, Włochy ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C
From the Piazzale we walked back towards our accommodation across the Pont de Vecchio, the Old Bridge, a medieval stone closed arch bridge over the Arno River. Known today as the gold markets bridge, the shops along the bridge were initially occupied by butchers. Believed to have first been built in Roman times, the bridge first appears in a document of 996. It has always hosted shops and merchants who displayed their goods on tables before their premises. The back shops that can be seen from upriver, were added in the 17th century and are built out from the bridge, giving it a very unique and interesting appearance. I would love to see inside some of the back shops, to see if they are actually the homes of the vendors or just more shop and storage spaces.

In 1900, to honour and mark the fourth century of the birth of the great Florentine sculptor and master goldsmith Benvenuto Cellini, the leading goldsmiths of the bridge commissioned a bronze bust of Cellini to be created to stand atop a fountain in the middle of the Eastern side of the bridge, where is stands to this day.

I love the history and the story of the bridge but it now very much for tourists and while I love looking and admiring jewellery while looking for something unique, there was way too much to look at and it was extremely expensive. Still it was nice to have a wander through and just imagine we were rich.

We ended our day with dinner at OBICA, a lovely restaurant we came across in an alleyway. I think the thing with Florence is to not be afraid to walk down the laneways and alleys as they often open up to exciting gardens and eating places. Dinner was a bit posher than we had been doing and it was nice to try something different, and the meatballs and wine were delicious. We really enjoyed the experience. Czytaj więcej
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Bella Italia 2018
Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella
24 września 2018, Włochy ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C
Our second day in Florence was a bit more relaxing, starting off with breakfast in front of the Cathedral again. Great food, great prices, amazing view – how could we not go back. A great way to start our day.

Today we did a bit of “house-keeping” – we packed up things we hadn’t used yet and didn’t think we would use (and my broken camera and lenses) and posted a parcel home to lighten our load when travelling from town to town. Feeling a bit proud of ourselves that we managed to get this done with very little Italian. Now fingers crossed it arrives home safely.

First and really our only tourist stop for the day was Officina Profumo - Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, the Old Pharmacy of Santa Maria Novella. I had read about this site on my favourite Atlas Obscura website so added it my “must see” list as the history is amazing.

The Santa Maria Novella Pharmacy is probably the oldest still-operating pharmacy in the world, and certainly the oldest in Italy. It was established in 1221, when the Dominican monks from the adjacent Basilica of Santa Maria Novella began growing herbs to make balms, salves and medicines for their infirmary. The superior quality of their products became widely known, and in the 17th century, the pharmacy opened its doors to the public.

Today the pharmacy still uses the traditional preparation methods, and still carries products using the original recipes of the monks. The pharmacy is in an extraordinary original building that was a former papal residence. With rooms complete with vaulted ceilings, ornate gilding, frescoes, walnut cabinetry, glass-stoppered decanters full of colourful potions, marble floors, stain glass windows, bronze statues and antique apothecary scales and mortars, it is a feast for the eyes as there is so much to see and admire. Gives our local pharmacy a lot to aspire to.

Thankfully I had read it was hard to locate and very easy to walk right by, so I was quite happy we managed to find the pharmacy and were able to go in and admire the beauty and the history. Czytaj więcej
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Bella Italia 2018
Trattoria Ponte Vecchio, Florence
24 września 2018, Włochy ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
We ended a very relaxing day catching up with some fellow Aussies for dinner at Trattoria Ponte Vecchio. I occasionally work with Tony and we have met his wife, Deb, at a couple of work functions so we weren’t really sure how dinner would go as it was to be our first-time socialising, just the four of us. We needn’t have worried as we were the first to arrive at the restaurant and the last to leave.

Trattoria Ponte Vecchio is perfectly located on the Arno River, just up from the famous Ponte Vecchio and the food was fabulous! The company was even better, and we had the best night comparing travel tales and learning more about each other. It was the start of a great friendship as many glasses of beer and wine were consumed with our delicious meal. We were having such a great time we didn’t even notice other diners coming and going and it wasn’t until quite late that we realised the staff were actually waiting for us to finish up.

It was such a fabulous night and catching up with people from home really added to our travel experience. Deb and Tony actually returned to the Trattoria the following night for dinner as the food was amazing and it would definitely be on our “must visit again list” if we ever return to Florence. Czytaj więcej
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Bella Italia 2018
Monteriggioni - Day Tour from Florence
25 września 2018, Włochy ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
Today we booked into an all day tour of the Tuscan region including a visit to Monteriggioni, San Gimignano, Siena and wine tasting in the Chianti area. First stop was the walled fortress of Monteriggioni.

Monteriggioni is one of the most important walled castles in the territory and has an incredibly well preserved intact structure, almost as if time had never passed. The castle was built by the Sienese between 1213 and 1219 for defensive purposes and its position on the hill overlooking the area made it the perfect lookout for any armies approaching Siena.

The current structure of the village is essentially the original one, with the only changes occurring in the 16th century when the towers were lowered. The intact fortified wall consists of 14 towers along which the guards used to walk and patrol the walls, and two gates, one called the Franca or Romea Gate which faces Rome and the other known as the Florentine Gate since it faces Florence.

Due to arriving at Monteriggioni so early a lot of the little shops and cafes weren't open and the town was still fairly empty, which was a pity because it is the type of place you want to spend some time wandering in and out of stores, enjoying a coffee sat in the courtyard in the morning sun, soaking up the feel of the place. Unfortunately we only had half an hour at this stop so we had a quick wander around. We did manage to find enough time to pop into a jewellery shop and purchase a beautiful ring for my birthday. It is lovely having a one of a kind piece made by a local Italian lady.

We loved Monteriggioni and just wished we had more time to enjoy this beautiful Italian town. It is on our list for our next visit to Italy. Czytaj więcej
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Siena - Day Tour from Florence
25 września 2018, Włochy ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
Second stop was Siena with a guided tour and lunch as part of the deal. Our bus dropped us off a bit far out from the old town area and we did a lot of brisk walking to get to the centre to start our guided tour with a local. It was very rushed but what we saw of Siena, we loved. However, we really weren’t that impressed with the tour guide as she also rushed us through the town telling us a little on the way before leaving us at the front of the Duomo where she left us with vague instructions on how to find our way back to where we were having lunch.

The promised lunch was very light on and not that exciting as we were actually sat in an outdoor tent with no atmosphere at all. And the wine was disgusting! It was very disappointing, and I don’t know that we would do a guided tour again. What we did enjoy was chatting to the people at our table. We were sat next to a couple from Canada and were surprised to discover that the guy was also a police officer and their son was a Canadian Mountie. We had a great time chatting and laughing with them. Sometimes it is the people you meet on your travels that add to the joy of the trip.

One of the things I loved about Siena, were the different decorative light fittings, ceramic plaques and flags down every laneway. What we did learn was that Siena is divided into 17 neighbourhoods in the historic centre, called Contrade. During the biannual running of the Palio, the centuries-old bareback horse race that occurs in the Piazza del Campo, ten of the participating contrade send a horse and rider to the race and things are very competitive between the districts. Each contrada is represented by a symbol - most are animals but there are also mythical creatures, architectural symbols and icons taken from nature – and certain colour combinations and you definitely know which contrada you are in by the flags flying and eye-catching light fittings. The history of Siena and the famous horse race and rivalry between the contrade is certainly interesting.

I am looking forward to going back and spending more time in Siena and exploring it at our own pace. Czytaj więcej
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Wine Tasting in Chianti - Day Tour
25 września 2018, Włochy ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
Unfortunately, the next stop on our tour was extremely disappointing. According to the spiel, we were going to head to a unique location in the Chianti countryside to enjoy wine tasting. It would include a tour around the splendid estate, learning about the history, followed by a typical lunch (we had already has that in a tent in Siena) and wine tasting and then enjoy some time after lunch to relax in the villa’s luxurious gardens on this 100+ year old vineyard complete with chapel. All I could picture was a Tuscan vineyard, rolling hills of grapevines, a gorgeous chapel, you get the picture.

What we actually got was a wine “factory” in an industrial estate type of area with a couple of rows of dried up vines out the front. Inside was very clinical and while the family had been in the wine and olive oil making business for generations, this place did not evoke the warm and fuzzy feelings we were hoping for. Bitterly disappointed is probably an understatement.

We were crammed into their tasting room which was basically a long rectangle room with very little character and given a few wines to try. It was a full-on sales pitch and as we were trapped in our seats there was little we could do. Not only were our friends from lunch at another table, no one at our table spoke English. The only good thing to come from it was that Brad actually enjoyed some of the wines – especially the reds, which I did not enjoy.

We left this spot feeling very “ripped off” as this was one of things I was most looking forward to on the tour. Not happy, Jan. Czytaj więcej
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San Gimignano - Day Tour from Florence
25 września 2018, Włochy ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
Thankfully the last stop for the day was San Gimignano and what a great last stop. It helped alleviate the disappointment from the wine tasting.

San Gimignano was amazing, and we wished we had longer to stay there. Situated on a hill in Tuscany, it is encircled by 13th century walls and known as the Town of Fine towers due to the preservation of about a dozen of its tower houses. The historic centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is known for saffron, the Golden Ham, and its white wine, Vernaccia di San Gimignano.

In the 3rd century BC a small Etruscan village stood on the site of San Gimignano and its history starts from there. Between 1199 and into the 1300s the peace of the town was disturbed for the next two centuries by conflict between the Guelphs ad the Ghibellines, the family rivalries within San Gimignano. This resulted in competing families building tower houses of increasingly higher and higher heights, in an effort to outdo each other. Towards the end of the Medieval period, there were 72 tower houses, up to 70 meters high.

While in other cities, most or all of their towers have been brought down by wars, catastrophes or urban renewal, San Gimignano has managed to conserve fourteen towers of varying heights, for which it is known internationally.

We were told by our guide to make sure we tried the gelato here as it is the world’s best gelato. And she wasn’t lying! In actual fact Gelateria Dondoli is the home of the world champion, master gelato maker, Sergio. There are in fact many competitions for gelato making - go figure. Sergio is famous for his unique and unusual flavour combinations and with this in mind, we headed to the ice cream shop to try this famous gelato. What we did not realise is that there was more than one ice cream shop in the piazza and we could not remember the name of the one we were meant to visit. Thankfully there was a sign saying world’s best ice cream so in we went and ordered from there. It was delicious but it wasn’t until we had finished our gelatos that we realised we had bought them from the wrong shop. Dondoli’s is known for its world-famous gelato, whereas where we bought ours from was known for its ice cream. And yes, there is a difference. It just means we will have to return to try the world-famous gelato next time.

Overall it was a great day seeing new places that we would not have seen otherwise but we were slightly disappointed with the time we had at each place, the arranged tours and the wine tasting were a huge disappointment. We did however love the towns we visited and can’t wait to visit them again to explore more. Italy has made its way into my heart. Czytaj więcej
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Siena
26 września 2018, Włochy ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
We farewelled Florence today and made our way by bus to Siena. It has been a real experience using the public transport here and thankfully we have made sure to always have our tickets, as once again there was an inspector on the bus checking tickets…and one young lady who thought she could bat her eyes and not get in trouble. That didn’t work.

I must admit it is a bit nerve racking at times on public transport, trying to work out where you are and how far your stop is, are we getting off at the right stop etc. So far so good, we haven’t gone wrong yet. Getting from the bus stop to our accommodation was another story as we tried to work out where to go but we got there eventually.

While we waited for our hostess to arrive we stopped at a family café not far from our accommodation and enjoyed another authentic Italian meal. I am loving the non-touristy cafes along the way and this was another great one.

After lunch we met our hostess and checked into our apartment for the next two nights. This has to be the best so far, with all the amenities you could ask for – the highlight being the washer and dryer, of course. After unpacking and doing a load of washing we headed out to explore Siena and see if we could find our way around after our tour here.

Thankfully we got our bearings and found the Piazza del Campo quite easily. The weather has certainly gotten a bit cooler as the night closes in and we found somewhere, with heaters, to have dinner. We enjoyed a very delicious dinner at Manganelli, sat overlooking the Piazza del Campo and the Torre del Mangia, the Tower of Mangia. It was a great way to start our time in Siena. Czytaj więcej
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Piazza del Campo, Siena
27 września 2018, Włochy ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C
The Piazza was where we started our day with our Italian breakfast of coffee, orange juice and a croissant while sat watching the square come to life. It was market day today, so the vans were pulling in and surrounding the piazza, getting ready to trade for the day. Unfortunately, most of the vans were selling tacky touristy items so that took away from the authentic feel.

We are loving the historic centre of Siena and can understand why it is a UNESCO World Heritage site. I love how it is built around the Piazza del Campo, one of Europe’s greatest medieval squares and the location of the famous Palio di Siena, the twice-yearly horse race around the square.

The Piazza del Campo is surrounded by so much history, and home to the Fonte Gaia, a monumental fountain originally completed in 1342. The fountains, plates and statues depict episodes from Genesis, the Creation of Adam, the Flight from the Garden of Eden, with a central depiction of Mary, along with wolves spouting water, representing the mother-wolf of Remus and Romulus. While it isn’t as elaborate as fountains we have seen elsewhere, its very simplicity is what draws the eye to the craftmanship of the panels and sculptures. Legend has it that the fountain was met with much joy, thus it was given the name Gaia or joyous.

The main focal point of the Piazza del Campo is Palazzo Pubblico, the Torre del Mangia and the Cappella di Piazza. Palazzo Pubblico is the civic headquarters and home of the famous Government of Nine. The square is paved with a fishtail design of red brick divided by ten lines of white travertine stone, creating a shell-like appearance with nine sections pointing directly to the Palazzo Pubblico. Each section represents one of the ruling nine governors in the “governo dei nove” and long considered to be one f the most stage and peaceful governments in Italy.

Adjoining the Palazzo is Cappella di Piazza, the Piazza Chapel, built between 1352 to 1376 in honour of the Virgin Mary, thanking her for the escape from the effects of the Black Plague of 1348. During the Palio games, the mass for the jockeys is held at its alter.

The structure that all eyes are drawn to and can be seen from almost everywhere in Siena is the Torre del Mangia, our next stop for the day. Czytaj więcej
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Torre del Mangia, Siena
27 września 2018, Włochy ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
After our leisurely breakfast, I headed off to find somewhere to get my fringe cut, while Brad made the climb to the top of the tower. I must say I was quite pleased with myself, as I managed to get my fringe cut by an Italian who did not speak one word of English. It is amazing what you can communicate with hand gestures.

So while I got my hair cut and then explored the areas around the Piazza, Brad made the climb to the top of the Torre del Mangia. Built in 1338 – 1348, it was one of the tallest secular towers in medieval Italy. At 102 meters it was built to be exactly the same height as the Siena Cathedral as a sign that the church and the state had equal amounts of power.

Literally meaning “Tower of the Eater”, the name refers to its first bellringer, Giovanni di Balduccio, nicknamed Mangiaguadagni, “Eat-the-profits”, either for his spendthrift tendency, idleness or gluttony.

Brad made the 400-step climb up the narrow stairways with irregular heights, to the bell tower and the breathtaking views from the top. Thankfully he took my camera with him so I could also admire the views. They were very impressive. Czytaj więcej
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Streets of Siena
27 września 2018, Włochy ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
After the tower climb, we explored the cobblestone streets of Siena, admiring so much about the town. The views from just outside the Piazza, overlooking the Tuscan hillside, the churches in the distance and back towards the tower were breathtaking. We are in a truly beautiful part of the world.

There is so much to admire in the little details as well - even the grates on the gutters are amazingly intricate! The elaborate alters built on the front of the buildings, the plaques and loggias, everything is so beautifully adorned and skilfully created. It is a feast for the eyes.

One thing I did notice about Siena was the lack of trees in the historic centre. There appears to be just one tree and that is it. It certainly stands out against the stonework, growing up towards the sun, surrounded by buildings. You actually don’t notice the absence of trees until you see this one. I’m not sure what the significance of this tree is, but it is being looked after and encouraged to grow.

There is such an ease about exploring Siena and it is such a great town to explore without getting lost. We love it here and like most of the places we have visited so far, we wish we had longer to get to know her better. Czytaj więcej
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Cripta del Duomo di Siena, Siena
27 września 2018, Włochy ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
We made our way to the Piazza del Duomo, the square in front of the Siena Cathedral. While this is nothing like the Piazza del Campo, it is a lot smaller, it is the central point for many of the main sites we next visited, the Duomo di Siena, the Libreria Piccolomini, the Facciatone, the Battistero di San Giovanni, and the Opera delle Metropolitana. The confusing thing was most of these places were actually all part of the Cathedral, but they all had separate entrances and were independent of each other.

First place we visited was the Cripta del Duomo di Siena. Situated under the Duomo’s pulpit, this vaulted space was totally filled with debris in the late 1300s and was only excavated and restored in 1999. Originally functioning as a cathedral entrance and confessional, it was decorated with 180 square meters of richly coloured 13th century pintura a secco (dry or mural paintings) covering walls, columns, pilasters, capitals and corbels. Fortunately, these managed to survive their mistreatment.

The Cripta is not exactly a crypt and was never used for burials. It is thought to have functions as a sort of porch with stairways leading directly up into the nave of the cathedral. Constructed at the same time as the Duomo, Siena’s citizens barely got a change to enjoy its frescoes before it was filled with debris and abandoned. Expansion work on the choir began in 1317 that required dismantling the crypt’s vault and the construction of the baptistery soon destroyed the façade. The crypt was subsequently used as a storeroom for construction materials and was closed up for good.

It lay unseen for nearly 700 years until its re-discovery during routine excavations in the Duomo in 1999 and the room was opened to the public in 2003. It is amazing what has survived all these centuries and the colours of the murals are so vivid to this day. You can see where the new buildings were added with no thought or care to cutting through a mural, destroying the images. I guess it was just an everyday thing for them, no big deal, and yet to us, today, we are amazed and enthralled by the artistry.

It is believed that there is another crypt in the cathedral, the original one, under the dome, but in places still inaccessible today due to the risk of static problems. You can just imagine how much is still buried and undiscovered today and possibly forever. The history, the sense of time, it is so hard to explain the feelings it evokes. It is pretty amazing. Czytaj więcej
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Battistero di San Giovanni, Siena
27 września 2018, Włochy ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C
Right next to the Crypt was the Battistero di San Giovanni, the Baptistry of St. John. Built between 1316 and 1325 by Camanio di Crescentino, it is situated at the back of the Cathedral and has its own amazing entrance.

The interior is divided into three naves and is lined with 15th century frescoes that centre around a hexagonal baptismal font. The frescoes are truly breathtaking in their detail, the intricacy of their design, the colours, the stories. I could spend hours admiring all of them.

The Baptismal Font is also an extraordinary work of art, made of marble, bronze and enamel. The was created between 1417 and 1431 by the greatest sculptors of the time, including Lorenzo Ghiberti and Donatello. The bronze panels surrounding the hexagonal basin depict the life of St John the Baptist, in amazing detail.

One thing that has really amazed us on our travels so far is how different inside all the religious building have been and how stunning the artwork is. This trip has certainly reminded me of how much I enjoy and love art and I have been blown away again and again. Czytaj więcej
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Duomo di Siena
27 września 2018, Włochy ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C
Next up was into the amazingly beautiful, Gothic Duomo di Siena, a medieval church originally designed and completed between 1215 and 1263. Built in the form of a Latin cross, the interior and exterior is constructed of white and greenish-black marble in alternating stripes with the addition of red marble on the façade. It is a truly striking building! I could spend hours photographing and admiring the exterior of this building, let alone the interior. The statues and gargoyles that adorn the façade are so detailed and interesting, and the three large mosaics on the gables glisten in the sunshine. It really is a remarkable building.

This is one of the Cathedrals that is just as elaborate on the inside as it is on the outside and there is so much that draws your eye. I just didn’t know where to look first.

Usually I look up first but this time I just had to look down as the floors are the most impressive and beautiful of the treasures the cathedral holds. The floors are decorated with the art of mosaics, using various techniques, to create storytelling masterpieces. There are 56 etched and inlaid marble panels, designed by 40 of the leading artists between 1369 and 1547, all from Siena. Completion of the designs took six centuries, with the last ones finished in the 1800s. They are amazing and once again I am amazed at the intricacy of the work.

The interior of the duomo is filled with amazing works of art created by famous Italian artists, and some of the works that once belonged in the Cathedral are now in museums and galleries in Siena and Florence. From the beautiful stained-glass windows, the marble high alters, the frescoes on the ceilings and the walls, the amazing candelabras, the rich and detailed paintings, the beautiful wooden choir stalls, there was so much to see and admire, and be in awe of. I think this is one of the most elaborate churches we have been in so far. Czytaj więcej
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Libreria Piccolomini, Siena
27 września 2018, Włochy ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
If we thought the Cathedral was a feast for the eyes, we could not comprehend the beauty of the adjoining Piccolomini Library. Housing precious illuminated choir books and frescoes painted by the Umbrian Bernardino di Betto, called Pinturicchio, this room literally takes your breath away. The visual impact of these very colourful frescoes is stunning. The frescoes tell the story of the life of Siena’s favourite son, cardinal Enea Silvio Piccolomini, who eventually became Pope Pius II. The ceiling is covered with painted panels of mythological subjects, executed between 1502 and 1503 by Pinturicchio and his assistants.

Unlike the cathedral, there was only one statue standing in the middle of the library, The Three Graces, a Roman copy of a Greek original. The smooth marble of the beautiful statue is in stark contrast against the colourful backdrop of the frescoed walls. This room rivals the beauty of the Scrovegni Chapel and the workmanship, the rich glazed colours, the well-preserved manuscripts, there is so much beauty and so much to admire. This is a photographer’s paradise. Czytaj więcej
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Facciatone, Siena
27 września 2018, Włochy ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C
Walking out of the Libreria and the Duomo, back into the colours of Siena, the stone and marble, was a huge contrast to what we had just viewed, and now it was time to view Siena from a different viewpoint.

We decided to make the climb up the 131 step, narrow corkscrew stairway to walk atop the unfinished façade of the Duomo Nuovo. While it wasn’t an excessive number of steps, it was a bit of a dizzying climb as we went around and around the central column of the stairway. I was so glad to get to the top and get out in the fresh air.

In 1339 the Grand General Council of the Bell officially approved the extension of the cathedral and construction begun. However due to various difficulties and the tremendous plague of 1348 the works were definitively interrupted in 1357. The elements that are visible today are the right nave, which houses a portion of the Opera Museum, and the front that, over time, the inhabitants have kindly called Il Facciatone.

I have to say I was so happy I made the climb as the breathtaking panoramic views of Siena on top of the Facciatone were awe-inspiring. And seeing the Cathedral and its surrounding piazzas and buildings gave us a whole new perspective of Siena. Although going up and coming down wasn’t that enjoyable the experience was definitely worth it. Czytaj więcej
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Museo dell' Opera, Siena
27 września 2018, Włochy ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C
Our next stop was at the Museo dell’ Opera, one of the oldest private museums established in Italy. It is located in what was going to be the right aisle of the New Cathedral, the name of the proposed Cathedral extension, connected to the Facciatone.

Founded in 1869, the museum is home to the extraordinary collection of 14th century Sienese marble statuary from the façade of the cathedral. Sculpted by Giovanni Pisano, between 1285 and 1297, they stand each side of the main aisle leading towards the highlight of the first floor, the magnificent stained-glass window made by Duccio di Buoninsegna between 1287 and 1290.

The stained-glass window with its six meters in diameter has three stories of the Virgin in the vertical band such as the Burial, the Assumption and the Coronation. The intense blue of the backgrounds, the brilliant colours of the garments, together with the delicate pink chosen for the complexions, this piece of art is the worthy highlight. Words cannot describe how impressive it is.

One thing we enjoyed about this museum is that it was not packed full of items, allowing the ones on display to shine and get the attention they deserve. It was an easy walk through the floors, admiring and marvelling that pieces of art, manuscripts and wooden sculptures have been so well preserved throughout the centuries. It is just so hard to fathom how they have survived, and some are still in amazing condition. The history of this place, of Italy, is one that has intrigued and interested us. We aren’t usually big museum goers, but we are glad we ventured into this one. Czytaj więcej
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Santuario di Santa Caterina, Siena
27 września 2018, Włochy ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C
Well, I think we managed to see most of the areas surrounding, and including, the Duomo so we tried to make our way to the Santuario di Santa Caterina. It was another warm day and walking the steep cobblestone laneways did make us second guess continuing. The Sanctuary of Santa Caterina is not a flash or ornate building and with very little signage it was hard to find.

The sanctuary incorporates the ancient residence of the Benincasa, birthplace of St. Catherine and is divided into various arcades, churches and oratories. This is one place that not speaking Italian made it difficult, as we really weren’t sure which rooms we could enter. I wish we did know more about this place and the areas we could actually visit as there was so much we missed.

It is now a pilgrimage site overseen by the nuns of the Benedictine order, and the home’s original kitchen and sleeping area were frescoes and converted into chapels in the 15th century. While no photos were allowed inside the chapels, it was lovely to walk into them and feel the serenity of the place.

The highlight for me though, what the wrought iron portal of the Sanctuary. The Portal of the Sanctuary of Santa Caterina da Siena was inaugurated and added to the sanctuary in 2015. Made entirely by hand, this modern piece of sculpture was forged by fire and modelled manually. It is very different and in stark contrast to the ancient statues and building and I love it, although I’m not sure all Italians would appreciate it or enjoy it. Czytaj więcej
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Basilica of San Domenico, Siena
27 września 2018, Włochy ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
From the Sanctuary we continued on to the Basilica of San Domenico, one of the most important churches in the city. We could see this church from the streets behind the Piazza del Campo, the top of the tower and the Facciatone, as it is an imposing structure in the distance.

The church was constructed between 1226 to 1265 and enlarged in the 14th century. While it is quite imposing in size, the exterior is fairly simple and does not have the elaborate ornamentation of the Duomo. And the interior is just as stark.

The main reason this church was on our To See list was because of our macabre interest in the mummified remains and skeletons, and in this church is the severed, mummified head of the revered Saint Catherine of Siena. Her right thumb also resides in a smaller reliquary not far from her head.

At the ripe old age of 7, Catherine had her first of many visions, with Jesus on a throne, surrounded by saints. As a teenager, she took a vow of perpetual virginity and gave herself over to prayer and worship. To thwart her family’s attempts to marry her off, Catherine cut her hair off, scalded herself and became a nun. At the age of 28 Catherine was said to have received the stigmata, when five rays shot out of the crucifix she was praying to and pierced her hands, feet and heart. She was seen levitating during prayer, and a priest once said that he saw the Holy Communion fly from his hand straight into Catherine’s mouth.

The beloved Catherine died at 33 and was canonized over a century later. She died while in Rome, but her hometown, Siena, wanted to have her body and when it was realised they would not be able to smuggle out her whole body, the took only her head in a paper bag. Unfortunately, they were stopped by the guards anyway. The thieves prayed to Catherine to protect them and when the guards looked in the bag, they saw not the small withered head of the saint, but hundreds of rose petals. When they returned to Siena, the head had rematerialized, Saint Catherine’s final miracle.

Her head was placed in a splendid reliquary in the church while the rest of her body remains in Rome, and her foot is said to be in a reliquary in Venice.

We were unable to take photos within the church (although Brad did manage to sneak a couple) and beside the blessed head of the Saint there really wasn’t much in the church to admire. It was a long hot walk to the church and while the mummified head was interesting, the church really didn’t inspire us and I wouldn’t make the walk again, especially on a hot day. Czytaj więcej
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Grotte di Frasassi, Genga
28 września 2018, Włochy ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
We farewelled Siena and picked up the hire car this morning, and hit the road once again. This time we had an automatic car so it was a bit easier. We are still very confused about the speed limits in Italy as no-one seems to obey them, especially where there are roadworks taking place. The 40km zones meant nothing to the Italian drivers and we often held them up by adhering to the speed limits. We did not want to arrive home to heaps of speeding tickets.

We made our way to Genga today, 50 kilometres from Ancona, the capital of Le Marche. On the agenda today was a visit to the Grotte di Frasassi, the Frasassi Caves, one of the largest subterranean cave systems in Europe. The caves were discovered in 1971 and have been open to public since 1974. While more than 18 kilometres of the caves have been explored, just 1 kilometre is open for a guided public tour–a fairly easy walk, with stairs and ramps built around the stunning stalactites and stalagmites. Strategic lighting highlights some of the most spectacular formations, which take various forms and shapes. There are formations that resemble the Grand Canyon, the Niagara Falls, the leaning tower of Pisa, various animals and more. The main cavern is massive; apparently it can fit the entire Cathedral of Milan, the largest Gothic Cathedral in the world! Further inside, there’s a cave whose floor is covered with small stalagmites, giving the impression that there are hundreds of candles. At some points the limestone formations hanging from the roof of the cave are so thin that they look like delicate sheets or veils.

We were very lucky once again that there were only four other people on our English speaking tour so we really got to enjoy the caves without being overcrowded. Unfortunately photos just don't do it justice, they don't convey the sheer size of the caves or the beauty of the stalactites and stalagmites, the way they glisten and shimmer. Photos don't show how crystal clear the water is and the way the stalagmites reflect upon their surface. This truly is a magical place and the best cave system we have ever seen. One of the highlights of our trips. Czytaj więcej
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