I'm traveling back in time to the small village south of Bristol where my great-grandfather Samuel Chiswell and his clan lived. My goal is to learn more about who they were, where they came from and how they lived. Cheers, Dad. Read more
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  • Day 1–2

    Charlottetown to Halifax

    May 14 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    I'd been contemplating making this trip for some time, but when Dad passed away last November, I wasn't sure I could do it this spring. I wanted to, but it felt like a daunting task. I can only guess it was the grieving.
    In January, I begrudgingly made my first hotel reservation in The Village of Chew Magna, knowing I could cancel it. Then, one by one, all the arrangements came together.
    Now I'm in Halifax about to have supper. Tomorrow morning, I take off for Heathrow.
    Fun Fact: I was in 3 provinces this afternoon.
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  • Day 2–3

    Halifax to London Heathrow

    May 15 in England ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    I made it to London! Smooth sailing all the way. Going through Customs was a breeze - just scanned my passport and off to pick up my bag. It's a humongous airport!
    The sun had just set as we landed around 9 pm. Gave me a chance to glimpse the surroundings from the air. Can't wait to see it from the ground in the morning.
    After taking my bags up to my room, I went down to the hotel pub for a snack and glass of vino. It's only 6:35 pm Atlantic time and I'm just not ready for bed yet. I did find out that here you only tip if you want to . . . it's not expected. Wish I'd known that with the taxi; the fare was £15 and I gave him a £7 tip. He gushed about how nice Canadians are.
    Tomorrow, I'll return to Heathrow to take an express train to Paddington station, then take another one to Bristol.
    Fun fact: they call the ground floor of a building Floor 0.
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  • Day 3–6

    Heathrow to Bristol

    May 16 in England ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Didn't sleep well as I'm messed up with jet lag. After breakfast, I took a cab (no tip this time!) back to Heathrow. Then I took the Express train towards Central London to Paddington Station. This magnificent train shed was designed for the Great Western Railway by Isambard Brunel to connect London to Bristol by rail. The station has 12 platforms, and it's a busy place! I arrived early to watch the people coming and going.
    I boarded the 1:30 pm train for the 1.5 hour journey to Temple Meads station, so named for the area that was the site of a round church built by the Knights Templar in the 12th century. Today, you can explore the ruins of Temple Church at the same location.
    My hotel is very close to the Old City where the original Anglo-Saxon settlement was situated and later where Bristol Castle was built in the 11th century.
    I decided to relax for the evening and will head out for sight-seeing in the morning.
    Not so Fun Fact; I'm having challenges with the Find Penguins app which has had me retype this footprint too many times.
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  • Day 4

    Bristol Day 1

    May 17 in England ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Again, I didn't sleep well. Went to bed and slept for no more than 2 hours when I awoke at 11 pm. Was awake until 2 am, so I turned my 7 alarm off. Awoke at 8:48 and jumped out of bed!
    Took a cab to the Clifton area to see two specific sites. First, the Clifton suspension bridge, designed by Isambard Brunel, then the Clifton Observatory overlooking the Avon River gorge and the suspension bridge. The bridge is one of the engineering wonders of the world. Had some breakfast at the Observatory, then started walking east looking for a cab.
    Shortly, I found one and had him take me to St. Paul's Southville, the paris church that Charles and his wife Ann were part of in the 1891 census. The graveyard here is quite small, and many of the stones are no longer legible due to the effects of weather. Couldn't find anything with the Chiswell name.
    I walked on to St. Mary Redcliffe church, a well-preserved sacred facility built circa 1160. By then, my feet and knee were killing me, so I walked back to my hotel.
    After a much needed rest, I left my hotel to wander north on Victoria Road to visit the Temple Church. What a wonderful place this is: bombed by the Nazis in the 1940 blitz, it was damaged but considered too important not to be maintained. The tower leans 5 feet out of vertical line!
    I forced myself to continue north and crossed the infamous Bristol Bridge. At one time, hundreds of years ago, the bridge had several stories of residences along with a church built on it. I finally made it to the St. Nicholas Markey that has been in operation since the late 1700s.
    So happy to be resting again at my hotel. I think I walked over 3 miles today. There are several things I plan to see tomorrow.
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  • Day 4–7

    Bristol add on

    May 17 in England ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Fun fact: I picked a book at random to bring with me called Journey by James Michner. Ironically, it's about 4 British subjects traveling across Canada.

  • Day 5

    Bristol Day 2

    May 18 in England ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Lots of walking today. Weather forecast was for rain this afternoon, so I headed out early (9:30 lol) to walk around the Old Town. First, I headed up to Castle Park, site of Bristol Castle that was a Norman garrison built in the latter part of 11th century. Little of this exists today.
    After wandering around the ruins of St. Peter's Church, I stopped into Caffee Nero for a bit of breaky. No Tim's here!
    I arrived at the intersection of the 4 original streets of the medieval town; Broad, Corn, Wine, and High streets. At the top of Broad Street is St. John's Gate, the only remaining gate and portion of the medieval Castle wall still in existence.
    I continued west through the Old City to visit Bristol Cathedral, which sits adjacent to CityHall.
    By this time, my poor aging body was ready for a rest, so I walked back to the Novotel. What a magnificent city. To live so close to all these ancient places would truly be a wonder, or would it?
    Fun Fact: Back in the 16th century, the Bristol Bridge (the city's namesake) had a church and homes built on it! How crazy is that?
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  • Day 6–11

    Bristol to Chew Magna!

    May 19 in England ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    I woke early again, so I went by foot down to Bedminster, on the south side of the River Avon. The 1851 cencus found Charles and his wife Ann with their infant son Samuel living at 23 Spring Street. From my research, I knew the houses on this road along with the parish church, St. Luke's had been demolished earlier in the 20th century, but it was worth the walk there.
    I returned to the hotel to check out and start the long-awaited journey to Chew Magna. There was an annual race (the Great Bristol Run) in the city centre today, and many of the streets had been closed for it. My rental car pick up at the Bristol Airport was scheduled for 2 pm. I got to the lobby around noon, but they couldn't get a cab to the hotel. You can't just flag a cab down on the street; they can only stop at designated places. After waiting for 45 minutes, I decided to walk out to the main thoroughfare to find my pre-paid bus to the airport. In the distance, I could see it at this huge bus stop, but it pulled away before I could even get close. There was a woman waiting there with 6 small kids, and when I asked her if she knew anything about my bus, she broke into tears because she couldn't find hers! Kindred spirit! Then I saw another airport bus on the opposite side of the street. I walked on to the train station, and another pulled up. Finally, I was on my way.
    Great service to the airport, then a shuttle to the rental cars by 2:15 pm. I got all the paperwork completed and was shown to my car. It's about the same size and style as my Kona. However, I was hoping for something a little smaller - memories of the narrow winding roads in Ireland had me more than a bit nervous - but he claimed this was the smallest vehicle they had.
    I set out from the car rental site, and after a number of close encounters, wrong turns, and stopping to ask for directions, I made it to my Village by 3:30 or so. It's usually a 20-minute drive.
    I checked into my room at the Bear and Swan, then walked along South Parade (the main street) to check out all these really old buildings. Can't wait to explore for real starting tomorrow!
    I had dinner at the inn - roast beef with all the trimmings, and now I'm lazing on my bed trying to stay awake. Tomorrow, I'll be up early to write about Bristol, and then I'm going to visit the parish church, St. Andrew's and graveyard before meeting the Rector in the afternoon. Praying for a solid night's sleep tonight. But, I made it!!
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  • Day 7

    Chew Magna Day 1

    May 20 in England ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Finally, my first restful sleep of the trip so far! Woke up around 8ish, and after a shower, I went downstairs for breakfast. I'm afraid it's not likely I'll try blood pudding. They did have a nice Eggs Benedict. I sat in the front window of the pub and watched all the street activity going on.
    Afterward, I walked north of South Parade and made my way to Silver Street. My great great great grandfather, John Atheal (father of Charles), must have been fairly wealthy as he owned a number of properties in The Village, including one on Silver Street that was described as 'houses and gardens' and was perched at the north side of the graveyard at St. Andrew's parish church. He lived in one of these houses with his son, John. There is only one house remaining, but I'm not sure it's his former abode.
    I carried on up the road past the Church Hall, crossed a stone bridge over the River Chew, and found a quiet spot to contemplate my surroundings. The sun was shining brightly down on me and the quiet sounds of the birds, insects, and rippling water was very soothing.
    I wandered back down to the church and began looking at the tombstone inscriptions, looking for Chiswell's. It wasn't long before I found Thomas (Charles' younger brother) and his wife, Sarah, in what I thought was a prominent location on the east side of the church by the footpath!
    The grass was rather long (the Rector had informed me that it hadn't been cut yet), and it made for an unsteady traverse as I occasionally stumbled on a rock or brick that wasn't visible. I had planned to return in the afternoon when I was to meet the Rector, so I didn't search much longer.
    I returned to the inn to rest for a bit and had a light snack. I set out again around 2:30 to explore more of the graveyard prior to my 3:30 meeting with Reverend Richard Greatrex. To my delight, there were a couple of gardeners with weed whackers working away on the 10-inch high grass.
    I wandered around to the north area, checking the areas that had been trimmed. It wasn't long before I came upon the stone for John Atheal (Charles' eldest brother) and his wife, Elizabeth. Photos of both stones for John and Thomas can be found online on Find A Grave.
    It was great meeting Richard. He had a couple of really old volumes of Chew Magna history, I shared the limited printed material I brought with me regarding my Chiswell research, and we had a good chat. He showed me around the building, making sure to point out the more interesting things. We parted with the agreement that I would share my findings with him.
    Now I'm lazy again after a big plate of fish and chips. I hope to sleep well again tonight and look forward to tomorrow's adventures.
    Fun fact: there's a restored headstone of a fellow who was murdered in the early 19th century. Picture included!
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  • Day 8

    Chew Magna Day 2

    May 21 in England ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Omigawd, what an incredibly fruitful day!! After breakfast, I walked west along High Street to see if I could recognize any building names from my research travels. I did see a few, but I'll have to wait til I get home to verify.
    I came to the intersection with Chew Lane, the road that leads to Westend Cottages, that great great great grandfather John Atheal owned. The 1841 census found Charles living here with his parents, John Atheal and Sarah, and young cousin Elizabeth. I had a date to meet the church warden at Stowey at 2:30 this afternoon, which would leave me with enough time to walk back to the inn, jump in the rental car and drive down for a visit.
    I had found these cottages on an 1840ish ordinance map. However, current maps showed it in the same place, but it was labeled Chew House, and there was another smaller building behind it. I knew that the smaller one was an AirB&B rental, and I had tried contacting the owner but didn't get a response. So I thought, what the heck!
    I went back for the car and drove south, finding the laneway or driveway (was this private property?) easily. I drove in and headed towards the first building, and as I got closer, there was a man standing near a driving mower in dusty old clothes, and I assumed he was the gardener. He watched me approach warily, so I started getting my 'lost' story in mind. I lowered the window and called out something like "Hello. My name is Beverley, and I think my ancestors used to own this property a long time ago. The name was Chiswell."
    Immediately, recognition dawned in his eyes, and I told him some more of the details. He told me that he was aware that Chiswell's did own it once upon a time and told me to go park over there and I'll show you around!!
    His name is Clive, and he took me inside to meet his wife, Margaret. I showed them the descendancy chart I had put together, and he told me that when they bought the property in 1977 from a fellow named Albert Weaver, the original Westend Cottage building was in derelict condition. He said that one of the documents he received was a copy of a Chiswell will!!
    Clive ended up restoring the building, adding rooms on the west side, and renamed it Chew House. Another mystery solved. He showed me around the house and said that he had converted it from 4 attached cottages to a single home. He carefully pointed out the original rooms of each cottage, which consisted of a single large room on the Main floor with a large fireplace that would have served as kitchen and living room, and the second floor that was a smaller footprint which would have been where they slept.
    Then he climbed up into the Attic to retrieve a framed tribute to the upgrades he made that included a photo of the original building in its dilapidated state. In the meantime, he sent Margaret down to the safe to find the purchase documents from all those years ago. They weren't able to find the will, but he was happy for me to take pictures of the sale documents with Weaver.
    In all, I was there for probably 45 minutes. I think they were as happy as me for this encounter. I'm so glad I made the trip there!
    This has been another rather long post, so I'll share details of my trip to Stowey in my post tomorrow.
    Fun fact: In the retail environment, eggs are not kept in refrigerated conditions!
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