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Fiona Boult
Fiona Boult

Fiona Boult

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoTraveler
    11

    More layered landscapes on the wonderful

    June 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Another perfect day of big skies, no rain and warm but not hot temperatures. Castrojeriz to Fromista.
    The Camino provided so many gifts today. More of my treasured layers landscapes, new birds (great reed warbler, stone chat), frogs, 11th century churches and a great vegan albérgue - tho this was at lunch time unfortunately still leaving me with a less than vegetarian evening meal.
    After a steep climb we passed another monastery albergue, this time run by the Italian Confraternity. Tiny and candlelit but not quite so ruined. Again I’d love to stay there if I am lucky enough to be able to walk again.
    Mostly flat earth paths today so easy walking - but totalling about 26 km. Amazingly didn’t feel tired at the end but I’m very tired now.
    Tiny albergue tonight (Vicus) in Fromista but we have our own room.
    Dinner with Sheryl and Janice - great company - food not so much but my fault as I chose wrong.    Read more

  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoTraveler
    1

    Hornillos to Castrojeriz

    June 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Lulled to sleep by a nightingale and woken by a cuckoo - possibly only on the Camino and on the Meseta?
    Slightly wild dreams but was awake just before 6 and left around 6.40.
    Unbelievably beautiful landscapes again and again I’m wishing I could paint. It’s hard to describe how stunning our environs are here. You need to see it for yourself.
    We have been lucky with the weather - not too hot and very little rain today.
    Stopped for coffee at an albergue just before Honteras and then again in the town itself where we met up with Sheryl and Janice.
    Easy walking today with the final stretch into Castrojeriz passing a ruined monastery now run as a very simple albergue by the Canadian Confraternity. I have to stay there next time if I’m lucky enough to be able to do this again. It has no electricity so dinner is by candlelight. No hoy water either - but I can do cold showers!! I’m aiming for it!
    Arrived at our Albergue, Iacobus, which was at the very far end of the town. Hopefully this means a bit less distance tomorrow which at the moment looks like quite a long day.
    Managed to get washing dry despite heavy thundery showers.
    Dinner at the albergue - not very veggie friendly so had to eat fish as a main course but did get a cup of camomile tea at the end which was a bonus.
    Now trying to get an early night as very tired!    Read more

  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoTraveler

    8th June Burgos to Hornillos - venturing

    June 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    What a wonderful day. Having been led to believe that the Meseta would be bleak, challenging walking, today was a revelation in so many ways. I wouldn’t have missed this for the world.
    Leaving Burgos was flat and close to roads for a while but we were soon out into the countryside again, and a very different landscape to that before Burgos.
    Huge skies and wide sweeping views were breathtaking. And remembering to look behind sometimes gave equal joy.
    Two stops for coffee/ breakfast in Tardajos and Rabé de las Calzadas - coffee great in the second place. Then an emotional stop at a tiny chapel just beyond Rabé where we met Theresa who was greeting and blessing pilgrims. Memorable.
    After this we were on to the beginning of the Meseta - cloudy magnificent skies that seemed never ending. Hard to describe properly - you need to see it.
    Arrived in Hornillos just before a shower of rain. The hostel is peaceful and full of both old friends and new ones. Dinner was paella (with chicken) for 30 (bit they were able to make me a salad to which I added chickpeas and olives from the little store across the road, which was delicious. Followed by yoghurt with honey.
    Right next to a church but I love the sound of the bells - just striking 9 as I write this.    Read more

  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoTraveler

    Burgos - not walking!

    June 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Amazingly slept until nearly 9 - I was so tired. Got up slowly for first time and went to join Rachel and Caroline for coffee. But my great flaw, impatience, reared it’s ugly head and after waiting a very long time to be served I decided I might be quicker getting some coffee elsewhere. And amazingly found a great place by the river with coffee and whole grain tostada with olive oil and tomato for €3.50. Delicious.
    Then to the Museum of Human Evolution. Fascinating archaeological finds in nearby Atapuerca (which we had walked through yesterday) of the oldest human settlement in Western Europe.
    Lunch at Gaia again with Caroline and Janice and Rachel - just as good as yesterday - I will miss this place.
    In the afternoon visited the cathedral which was awesome - but not particularly spiritually inspiring (compared to some of the other churches we have visited). However Burgos as a whole is one of my favourite places. Very fun to walk around and beautiful at every turn.
    Sad moment when I realised that I have lost both my sunglasses and my socks. Tried to find them but without success. Everywhere I tried, including last night’s hotel, had not seen them. So had to replace the sunglasses with a very cheap pair and will take very good care of my one remaining pair of socks!
    Dinner with C, Tricia and Rachel at another very good vegan place. I will miss these.    Read more

  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoTraveler
    11

    Day 14 Ages to Burgos

    June 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Amazingly slept well despite a dorm of 8 - turns out that the one man on the dorm didn’t sleep so I guess that’s why there wasn’t too much snoring!!
    Left at 7 just after sunrise. A beautiful morning and a gentle start to the day. The poppies looked as if they had been frosted - they had closed up and were tinged with white on the outside but as the temperature rose they seemed to revive.
    There was a ring of standing stones commemorating the people involved with excavating the oldest human settlement in Europe- should learn more about this at the Museum of Human Evolution in Burgos tomorrow.
    A tough section uphill on limestone was leavened by fabulous birdsong and then came to a cross at the top of the hill with views towards Burgos. After that it was all downhill or flat - two stops for coffee at villages on the river Pico and then the scenic route into Burgos.
    This wasn’t brilliantly signposted but we aimed for the river (sadly not deep enough to swim in) and then followed that to the ancient gate into the city which leads to the cathedral.
    The whole place looks unreal (one friend compared it to a sandcastle!) and I can’t stop taking photos.
    Had a drink with Camino friends in the Cathdral square then found our hotel (yes a hotel - 3 of us sharing - bathroom and NO bunk beds!!). Caroline and I found a great vegan restaurant, Gaia, about 5 minutes from the hotel but only open from 1.30-4pm. Food was fab and a huge relief after some adequate but not great meatless meals. Four courses for €14.
    Did some washing as usual and our room currently resembles a chines laundry but it’s drying well in the heat ( room is vv hot and when we tried air con it only produced hot air - complained to the hotel but were told that they don’t activate the air con system at this time of year!).
    Drinks at a tapas bar with friends and now going to sleep - very tired but a good day.    Read more

  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoTraveler
    1

    Day 13 - Belorado to Ages - one thousand

    June 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    This was going to be a long hard day so left the hostal at 6 - but I might as well have left at 4 as I had almost no sleep as our dorm was noisy! Despite a headache it was a fab mornings walk until we stopped after 12km at Villafranca for coffee and tortilla.
    The next part of the walk was steeply up but not as hard as I had expected and then the most wonderful stroll through woodland with beautiful birdsong (including Bonellis warblers, tree pipit, firecrests, and short toed tree creepers). Then there were the butterflies - thousands of them following me along the trail and all over the flowers. Also a hummingbird hawk moth - one of my favourite insects.
    It was a truly magical day and once the headache went, thanks to paracetamol, I was in heaven! I’m sitting here in an 8 bed dorm writing this with a cuckoo still singing outside. I feel I may not get much sleep this as there is already snoring and coughing :(
    Wonderful meal at a local bar in Ages almost next door to the hostal - the owners only spoke Spanish but I managed to communicate and had a great vegetarian meal - with Caroline, Rachel, Roz, Paul and Nick.
    Burgos tomorrow for two days!!    Read more

  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoTraveler
    1

    Mistier, farther and farther - from Sant

    June 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Sunday 4th June - a day that started cool and misty and almost raining. Still beautiful. Stopped for a poor coffee and bad toast after about 7km and then a second much better coffee a few kilometres further on.
    Then the sun came out and the views were stupendous. I need to paint - or at least begin to learn to paint. Next time I’m bringing a watercolour kit!
    Having been quite cold for the first part of the morning it then became quite hot and more of a slog close to a busy road. But having started at 7 we were safely in Belorado by about 1.
    We then had to wait in a huge queue to get into the hostal but we’re thankfully given a room of 4 with two other friends - which given that the bunks are very close together and look like double beds, is lucky.
    Belorado is another hidden gem and had the added bonus of a festival in the main square. Also a choral concert in the church which I heard part of.
    The hostal is busy but good with a lovely garden with a pool. I had a swim which was fab - the pool was surprisingly quiet - maybe most pilgrims don’t bring a costume? I met Ross from Glasgow who is a fellow wild swimmer and who has promised to let me know when he finds places to swim - he has already swim in two rivers! I’m very jealous.
    Good pilgrim meal at the hostal - veggie but small portions - sure this must be good for me.
    Very very early start tomorrow as it’s going to be a long day.    Read more

  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoTraveler
    1

    Saturday 3rd June - Najera to San Doming

    June 3, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    We left Najera at 7 on the. Most beautiful morning. Coffee in Azofra at Bar Sevilla with tostada and they also made me a cheese sandwich for later.
    A wonderful walk in a stunning landscape and cool for a while. Weather began to heat up around 10.30 and I was very relieved to find a donativo food and drink stall by a shady area with a water fountain and benches.
    Changed my shoes for sandals for the first time which was reasonably successful although as the path was stony I did have to shake them out from time to time.
    On the bird front I heard a Rock Sparrow for the first time.
    Arrived in San Domingo at about 12.30 and immediately ran into Dave and Cherie - our clown friends from Maine - who were eating at a little bar in the square so stopped to chat with them.
    Have finally managed to solve the problem of accommodation in St Juan de Ortega where there seemed to be nothing available for Monday night. Janice was able to share details of a hostal which I have now been able to book for €15 each. Just very relieved that we will have somewhere to stay as it was looking impossible other than a terrible Alberge which everyone said to avoid.
    Explored the cathedral and learnt about the chicken legend. The cathedral has two live chickens (I have video!). The story is that a pilgrim lodged with a local family whose daughter made advances to him. When he rejected her she put a coin in his bag and then accused him of stealing. He was tried, found guilty and out to death by hanging. His parents then went on a pilgrimage to Santiago and on their way home wanted to collect his body for burial. But at this point he came back to life. When the town people approached the judge, who was eating chicken, saying that they did not know what to do with him as he was still alive, the judge said that he wasn’t any more alive than the chicken on his plate - at which point the chicken also came back to life. Sorry for the very brief and probably incoherent retelling of the story but I did enjoy the chickens in the cathedral!!    Read more

  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoTraveler

    Day 10 Navarrete to Najera - a day of vi

    June 2, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Left Navarrete around 7.30 in cool cloud. Perfect walking weather. Met up with Dave and Sherri from the US. They are on a 5 month European tour and including the full Camino. After telling us that they were spending some time out of Burgos at a circus festival they explained that they are clowns and have lived out of their van for 19 years - although they have also spent 5 years running a cat and dog kennels which they had to take over when Dave’s mother died. It had been her business and they took it over with no prior knowledge of what to do and had to combine managing the business with clearing her house as she had been a serious hoarder.
    Spent most of the morning with them including a delicious breakfast stop.
    This was a short day - 17km altogether - so we had time to explore Najera in the afternoon after waiting out a big thunderstorm.
    The monastery of Santa Maria was outstanding - it seems extraordinary that some of these towns are so off the tourist routes as they are very special.
    Dinner was another slight mistake but we managed to eat just about enough and then had a cup of tea with Sheryl and Janice who we bumped into.
    We are in Rioja now surrounded by vineyards - some with tiny grapes already in evidence, others with just leaves so far that I guess will be harvested later. Wonderful countryside but closer to big roads than before.    Read more

  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoTraveler

    Thursday 1st June Viana to Navarrete - a

    June 1, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Very good nights sleep in Viana. Left at 7 in cool cloud for a long quite uninteresting walk into Lograño. After 10km and somewhere in the centre of Lograno, after exploring the church of Santiago, we had breakfast and somehow spent 2 hours wandering round and eating. On the way in saw many storks building nests and sitting on the roofs - wonderful sight.
    Out of Logroño we walked through a beautiful park with a lake and saw re squirrels. Less attractive was the bit afterwards on a path running alongside a motorway and the through major road construction zone. Finally into Navarrete totally exhausted to be honest - although the walk was only 23k it was very humid today and hot although predominantly cloudy. I needed a beer.
    Posada Ignatius where we are staying is lovely although we are the only people here - so the shared bathroom is ours alone.
    Very strange supper experience in a Fawlty towers type restaurant with added slightly sinister atmosphere which we eventually gave up on and ran away leaving €10 for the half glasses of wine we had drunk. Owner was newly arrived from Romania and although he had initially promised veggie food, or at least fish, when I had gone in to enquire earlier, when it came to it this was obviously a big problem and after shouting and banging in the kitchen and no food appearing, together with questions like - there will be ham - is ok? We decided to cut and run.
    Had a great meal with camino friends Tachel, Ros, Nick, Mike and Paul at Bar Deportivo with very good food and lovely staff.
    I have felt the need to dispose of things I really don’t need while on the Camino. Both actual things like hand sanitiser, old t shirt, old flip flops and virtual things in the form of unsubscribing from all the marketing emails I seems to receive hundreds of on a daily basis. I have unsubscribed from several every day so far and am feeling very relieved! Still struggling with ‘Nextdoor’ tho which I can’t seem to get rid of for the life of me.
    An ongoing project!    Read more

  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoTraveler
    1

    I haven’t mentioned birdsong yet! Los Ar

    May 31, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    I really need to talk about my new obsession with birdsong. As I walk along the Way I’m being serenaded by thousands of birds. Until now although I’ve been interested I’ve never really known which birds were around me. Well now I do thanks to an amazing app that records the songs and tells you who is singing.
    On the day between Roncesvalles and Zubiri I met a man who I now think gave me a wonderful gift and May be one of the Camino angels! He told me about the Merlín app from Cornell university and I now use it all the time. It certainly slows me down but I don’t care as I find it fascinating and am beginning to be able to identify some of the birds without it. I’ve had cuckoos, corn buntings, melodious warblers, turtle doves, serins, goldfinches, firecrests, cirl buntings, black caps, nightingales, Cetti’s warbler and zitting cisticola as well as blackbirds, chaffinches, sparrows, martins, swallows and swifts. Quite amazing.
    Slept really well and left at 7.30. We’ve give ourselves a shorter day today and tomorrow in lieu of having a rest day and this has seemed to work quite well. We will catch up with some of our Camino family in Najera and have actually reconnected with a couple of people who have also decided to stop in Viana.
    The walk was about 18 km - flat to start and then undulating to Viana. Coffee and croissant at Sansol then a beautiful octagonal church at Torres del Rio.
    Hot walking today but a very welcome truck about 6km before Viana where we topped up with water and an orange.
    Viana is a truly lovely town - narrow streets with tall houses, a fabulous church and a ruined fortress church with amazing views over the surrounding countryside.
    Had a siesta this afternoon which was much needed then a pilgrim meal with Tricia and Rachel joining us (slightly worrying moment when Tricia said she did know Rachel because she had had to wait for her to finish using the tumble dryer in a hostel at 10 in the evening - it possibly hadn’t been the most harmonious moment but Tricia seemed happy to forget about it and Rachel didn’t seem to remember she’d met Tricia so all fine). Only on the Camino!    Read more

  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoTraveler
    2

    A day of layered landscapes - Tuesday 30

    May 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Left Estella at 7.30. Out through the town and into a landscape of cornfields, wheat fields, olive groves and vineyards. Around 8 we found the wine fountain - really a bit early but everyone drank a little and saved some more for later. It belongs to the vineyard and is a famous spot on the Camino.
    Blue sky and mountains in the background. Layers of colours that made me want to paint - maybe I’ll find a painting class when I get home!
    Finally found coffee in Iguzquiza - also tortilla and cake! But I mainly ate cherries form yesterday.
    Continued walking to Villamayor de Mondjardin where we filled water bottles as had been told that water was scarce after this. Gently undulating path after Villamayor. The joy of a food truck half way to los Arcos where we bought ice cream.
    Altogether another day when I felt very very lucky to be doing this.
    Arrived in Los Arcos around 2.30 and checked in at our pension - Ostradar.
    After washing clothes went to explore the town, drank beers and arranged dinner with Denis and Bernie and Sheryl and Janice. €14 delicious three course pilgrims meal including wine. The church was open after dinner - extraordinarily beautiful.
    Very tired now.    Read more

  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoTraveler

    A day of roads - Roman and othes - Puent

    May 29, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    After the storm - we left Puente La Reina around 8 after an abortive attempt to find coffee and a wait for the rain to stop finally. Slept quite badly for some reason (probably too much good red wine the night before) so was a bit tired for most of the day. Really wanted cherries but they were not to be had until a fruit shop in Estella.
    Despite feeling a bit grumpy I had a lovely day - more beautiful scenery and large sections along a Roman road.
    Hostal in Estella was a 4 bed female room in a very interesting old building. We already knew our room mates having met them along the Way - one was an Israeli girl who lives in a kibbutz arrangement in Akko - close to where I was on Kibbutz Shomrat when I was 17.
    We tried to wash some clothes but the heavens opened again - briefly - but still meant we needed to dry them in the room - slightly awkward when sharing but in the end they dried with the help of a bit of hair dryer input.
    Lively and lovely evening - first eating at Mundo - I had a delicious poke bowl - then met up with Bego and Kim and their friend Concha for a cup of tea before a reasonably early night which I really needed.
    Slight disagreement with one of the roommates who didn’t want any windows open owing to the sound of the river (I thought it was v soothing!). But room eventually cooled down- one window was allowed to be opened - and slept pretty well - thank goodness.    Read more

  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoTraveler

    Dinner at Vinoteca Ganbara

    May 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Just a post script to or evening in puente del Reina. Fabulous dinner with our very good friends Bego and Kim. Great local wine, simple but stunningly well cooked food. Asparagus, mozzarella salad, local cheeses and to finish, tarte tatin.Read more

  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoTraveler
    1

    Pamplona to Puente del Reina

    May 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    A wonderful day of cornfields, wild flowers and birdsong
    Forecast was for hot weather so we left the hostel (after very good coffee) at 7am.
    Almost immediately met up with Bego and her friend. She is from Pamplona but is working in Brussels - he is a childhood friend from Luxembourg. She was absolutely lovely and has an adopted niece which meant we immediately had something in common. We talked her family and mine and her work and learning languages.
    We met up with her several times during the day at the various rest stops. First stop was in Zariquirgui where I bought coffee, cherries oranges and a banana. All delicious. In fact two lots of cherries as they are my favourite.
    Beautiful walk meeting up with several members of our Camino family.
    I am feeling very blessed and increasingly serene. Although my shoulder hurt and I’m very tired (and hungry at the moment) I feel so lucky to be able to do this.
    Just after we arrived at our hostel the most tremendous thunderstorm started and has been raging ever since - including hailstones at one point. Hoping it will stop before we need to go out to find dinner!!    Read more

  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoTraveler
    1

    Zubiri to Pamplona 27th May

    May 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌩️ 27 °C

    A day of rivers and festivals.
    We left Zubiri around 7.45 and were soon walking along the Rio Arga which we followed for most of the day. Waterfalls, rapids and deep pools that I was desperate to get into but didn’t as it would be difficult to get dry and actually difficult to leave I imagine.
    Just out of Zubiri we met up with Mel and Rachel - from Surrey. They were carrying bags of more than 12 kilos - including collagen drinks and specialist hair are apparently! And this was having sent a hold-all full of stuff ahead via the transport system. I was amazed they could lift their bags let alone carry them as my bag of around 8 kilos was practically killing me by the end of the day. They were lovely - interesting stories as always and also, as always on the Camino it seems, wanting to share quite private stories about their lives.
    Came across a fascinating festival in Vilava with enormous dancing puppets.
    This was a hard day as it was hot and the route into Pamplona was largely on tarmac when we got close. My rucksack was really hurting my shoulders so after taking a few more photos in the Marsden t shirt I’m afraid I left it at the hostel in the ‘free to a good home’ box.
    Lovely hostel - Aloha(!). We were very relieved to arrive and sat on the terrace with beers to recover. Private room with shared bathroom - with sheets and towels - perfect.
    It was Caroline’s birthday so went for a wander around Pamplona after recovering, in an attempt to find somewhere to eat. Pamplona was heaving - definitely party town and party night. Eventually decided on bar Gaucho recommended by the hostel host and we were joined by Cheryl and Janice from Winnipeg in Canada and met up with Denis and Bernie from Ireland at the same place. Delicious tapas food and then ice cream. Bar was madly busy as was everywhere in the city centre ans despite it being Caroline’s birthday fundamentally we were all exhausted so still had a pretty early night.    Read more

  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoTraveler

    The Camino will provide

    May 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    So I lost my scarf somewhere between Orisson and Roncesvalles- wasn’t sure what had happened to it - whether I’d dropped it or left it somewhere. Anyway today while having breakfast at a little cafe in Espinal I bumped into Julie who we’d met at Alberge Borda. She asked if I’d lost a scarf and I said I had. She didn’t have it but Tricia (also at Borda) had it. Tricia is staying at Suseia tonight and was able to return it to me! So so happy as although not valuable I really love it and I need it! It’s very light but warm and I am so pleased it’s come back to me!Read more

  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoTraveler

    Albergue Suseia in Zubiri

    May 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Fabulous dinner with great company (people from Ireland, USA and Ecuador).
    Started with energetic salad, mushroom and zucchini soup, special veggie dish, fab local cheese and a yoghurt dessert. I’m desperate for some of the recipes and would love to stay here again.Read more

  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoTraveler

    Roncesvalles to Zubiri - Friday 26th May

    May 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    We left Roncesvalles at around 7.45 on a beautiful but very cold morning (6 degrees). Didn’t bother with breakfast at the Posada but stopped in Burguete (known as a favourite place of Ernest Hemingway) for a coffee and in Espinal for more coffee and tortilla. Outside tables in a garden and delicious food. Shortly afterwards I managed to fall backwards into a stream while trying to take a photo of the church. Very embarrassing- I felt a bit like a beetle on its back as I was wearing my very heavy pack and couldn’t easily get up. Anyway I’m fine - slightly bruised behind but no major damage.
    The walk today was varied and stunning. Quite steep, both up and down, in parts, particularly at the end but manageable. We bought fruit - an apple for me and cherries and apricots - from a van in Espinal. Delicious and kept us going for most of the day - but having said that I’m glad that dinner at the hostal is early tonight as I’m very hungry now.
    Had to help a man who had fallen in the same sort of way as I did earlier - he lost his balance a bit and then fell backwards owing to the weight of his pack! I wonder how many times a day this happens on the Camino!!

    Tonight’s hostel and host Sara are both great. We will be a very British and Irish gathering - the three Irish siblings and their friend who we met in St Jean and Denis and Bernie also from Dublin who we met on the trail yesterday. Also James from the Uk and a few others. Dinner smells v good.
    This is such a special experience - I’m loving very minute tho am definitely quite tired. Looking forward to Pamplona tomorrow.    Read more

  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoTraveler

    At Roncesvalles

    May 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    We are feeling very fortunate as although our room at the Posada de Roncesvalles was VERY expensive, it is warm. Our friends staying at the very beautiful and traditional monastery have no heating and no blankets! They can see their breath inside and when we met them for dinner they were wearing every piece of clothing they possessed and fully expected to be keeping everything on overnight as like us they only have sleeping bag liners. We did ask if they wanted to share our room but think they felt awkward about this. We have two spare beds tonight. Anyway the €70 each now seems worth it! Good dinner for €15 including wine (not optional or appears) and then went to the church for the pilgrim mass. Again felt very blessed and was actually blessed (as not catholic).
    Onwards and upwards - or actually mainly steeply downwards tomorrow.
    Pictures are of the queue for the pilgrim dinner - general feeling that pilgrims need to be strictly herded on the whole!    Read more

  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoTraveler

    Thursday 25th May Orisson to Roncesvalle

    May 25, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Slept well finally! No snoring as all female dormitory last night.
    Rudimentary breakfast but coffee was good. Set off to cross into Spain river the Pyrenees at about 8.15. Weather started bright and not too cold so we were soon in t shirts but not for long as it became quite cold very quickly. Unbelievably beautiful scenery when we could see it but lots of very misty patches where we could see very little.
    Met up with Nomi from Houston Texas but originally from Israel. She had started out with a friend but had come to the decision today that it wasn’t working out so was working out how to dump him - quite tricky I should imagine as we keep meeting up with the same people so he might be quite hard to avoid!
    Also met up again with Mark from Beilari on first night - he left at 6.30 am without breakfast and with no food and managed to get very lost. Saved from a very tricky situation by a lovely Irish couple with energy bars and who were on the right route. Walked quite a way with them. They are Camino addicts who have walked the Frances before as well as the Norte, the Primitivo and the Portuguese. Interesting discussions about Brexit - like most Europeans they remain completely baffled by the vote to leave and were very interested to know about what we perceived the benefits to be! We struggled…
    Arrived in Roncesvalles at about 1. Very cold as we’re still high up. Couldn’t check into our accommodation so went to the bar and had tortilla and two beers each- felt very good after quite hard cold walk.
    Now checked in and dinner in the hotel arranged. Hoping to go to the pilgrims service in the church attached to the monastery at 8pm if we can stay awake long enough. The church is beautiful with the most stunning stained glass. More to follow potentially…    Read more

  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoTraveler

    Evening at Auberge Borda

    May 24, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    The day improved when Laurent lit the wood burner and we had a glass of red wine accompanied by crisps! Finally warm after getting thoroughly chilled - also helped by Brujo (witch in English) the cat who dat on my knee for some time. Facilities were wonderful - lots of hot water (shower was meant to be limited to 4mins with a token but luckily token didn’t function as Laurent would have liked so C and I were both able to shower on one token perfectly adequately).
    Dinner was good - soup followed by dauphinois potatoes and a bean thing for us vegetarians. Other pilgrims from France, South Korea, Austria (a couple who were actually 8 weeks into their walk having started in Austria in March) USA, Canada, Brazil, Israel and Italy.    Read more

  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoTraveler

    St Jean Pied de Port to Orisson

    May 24, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Set off from St Jean around 8.30. Short but steep day today 9km up into the Pyrenees. Weather has been misty with a bit of rain and a very little bit of sun. We were at the main Orisson Auberge by 10.30 so had coffee and then some soup as despite breakfast I was hungry.
    All a bit uncomfortable tho after that as was very sweaty after the steep climb but the weather had turned quite cold so just got chilled. Our Auberge (Auberge Borda) was a kilometre further on so we were there super early and it turned out that it didn’t open until 2.30. While the sun shone this was fine but got vv cold waiting.
    Laurent - owner - finally turned up but we are missing Joseph from last night as although the place is beautiful the welcome wasn’t and we don’t actually feel very welcome but instead a bit of a nuisance! Anyway the other pilgrims are lovely - some people from Beilari too and am sure dinner will be fun.    Read more

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