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Camino Portugués
  • Peter Schiller
  • Peter Schiller

Camino Portugués

An open-ended adventure by Peter Read more
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  • Trip start
    July 29, 2018
    Peter SchillerCamino PortuguésPeter Schiller

    Part 1 Day 1 - Faro

    July 29, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Yesterday I arrived in Faro at 2130. After 4km walk in the darkness I arrived at 'Faro beach life hostel', where I had booked a bed in a 8p-dormitory - 28 e.
    Cosy hostel full of young people - mostly girls.
    I slept well, but waked up early - 600. The first 10 km went on the in the morning still empty beach. In the next town Quarteira (slowly filling with tourists) I had a coffee.    Read more

  • Peter SchillerCamino PortuguésPeter Schiller

    Faro to Albufeira - 27/31km

    July 29, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    5km on a nice promenade in Quarteira - I had some apricots and a mulberry ice cream. Than along and on the beach again - but this time full with tourists - nothing compared with the nice quiet morning walk. One short swim (the water was quite cold - maybe like January in Malta ) and a small snack at one of the beaches.
    At the end the walk become little bit challenging - the sandy beach changed to a rocky one and it wasn't always easy to find a way, especially with the coming high water. At 1600 l arrived at my booked hostel 'wish & stay' in Albufeira - 18e - dormitory for 15p with triple beds! Fortunately I arrived first and could choose one of the lower beds.
    Only 27 km for the first day, so quite a relaxing day.

    I decided that I have enough of the crowded beaches and will go to the north - I would have to take a train back to Tunes anyway, if I follow the coast further. So I booked a room in a pension in São Bartolomeu de Messines - 25e. From there I'll take a train to Lisbon on Tuesday - buying the online ticket (18.5e) wasn't so easy because the pages of Portuguese railways are only in Portuguese (my thanks to google translator).    Read more

  • Peter SchillerCamino PortuguésPeter Schiller

    Evening in Albufeira

    July 29, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    The town is nice, but was overcrowded with tourists. The travel guide says 'it is the tourist capital of the Algarve - this explains it - looking forward to leave :).
    The hostel is directly in the centre with lot of bars and restaurants around, so I am curious how the night will be (maybe I should be more careful by booking?).
    I had a water melon and bought some wine and olives for the evening. The dormitory filled up slowly and there was a couple from Rožnov as well.
    Tomorrow I have 40km to go.    Read more

  • Peter SchillerCamino PortuguésPeter Schiller

    P1 day 2 - Albufeira to Messines

    July 30, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    I slept little bit, but was woken up every hour by the noise from the bars, from the street and mostly from the other people in the hostel - they talked and laughed until 5am on the terrace. (Looking forward to have my own room.)
    I started at 630 with the sunrise, have coffee and fresh orange juice in Padere after 13km and two beer (the bottles are quite small here) in Alte at 23km. In a small outlet (Torre) a man gave me one tangerine and one orange from his garden - nice ! I was curious why so many people here speak good english - he explained that even here are many tourist (maybe looking for some serenity away from the overcrowded coast ?)    Read more

  • Peter SchillerCamino PortuguésPeter Schiller

    Messines 35/66km

    July 30, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    After another beer (mahou is better) I arrived at 1630 at Pensão Guia in Messines. I've got my own nice room (25e), what a difference!
    Thanks some shortcuts I took, it was only 35km, but without the breeze it was quite hot in the afternoon. But the way was nice - like the real Camino.
    I've got my first blisters 😞
    After a short sleep I wanted to explore the town, but I managed only to go to the next shop to buy some wine, olives, beer and coke for "dinner".    Read more

  • Peter SchillerCamino PortuguésPeter Schiller

    P1 day 3 - to Lisbon (238km)

    July 31, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    The morning in Messines was windy and cloudy, but in Lisbon was clear and hot again. I've slept nearly 10 hours. The train was 20 minutes late and quite full. At 1200 (after 2.5 hour) I arrived in Lisbon at Sete Rios. After coffee, coke and orange juice I went to the centre to collect my first stemps in Basilica do Martirez, in the Cathedral and in the Igreja de Santiago - there was a sign : "610 km to Santiago" - so let's go!
    Than I checked in in my hotel - small room without windows, but otherwise nice (23.5e).    Read more

  • Peter SchillerCamino PortuguésPeter Schiller

    Lisbon 15/81km

    July 31, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Nice city - lot of tourists (despite the heat) - queues at the main attractions.
    After a shower and short rest I went to the centre again and had dinner (a real one): alentejo soup, grilled sardines, beer, brandy.Read more

  • Peter SchillerCamino PortuguésPeter Schiller
    First yellow arrow

    Part 2 - Lisbon to Porto, day 1

    August 1, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    700 the first 8 km wasn't very nice walking on busy narrow streets,. Than came Parque das Nações (Expo 98) with nice trail along the river Tejo. Unfortunately all cafes were still closed, so another 12km along Rio Trancāo to Cafe Granja, where I had salad and beer.Read more

  • Peter SchillerCamino PortuguésPeter Schiller
    Hostel Vilatejo

    P2D1 to Vila Franca de Xira 41/122km

    August 1, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    Yesterday I was afraid where I shall stay tonight, on booking.com I have find only an expensive hotel room for 70e and the only one alberque was 2 km after Granja, too early to stay here. So I called one of the hostels in Vila Franca de Xira from my guide book 'Camino Portuguese'. First, it was quite confusing - the woman didn't speak english, even if claiming so. But after 10 min I've got a return call from a man with perfect english and he had confirmed my reservation. Happy me !!
    Another break in a nice park near Forte de Casa at 27km - coffee, coke, beer, water. Nice trail in the swamps. Next beer at the railway station in Alverca /32km. Than terrible 2.5km on a main street with heavy traffic. Beer and coffee in Alhandra /37km, 4 left - again nice walk along the river.
    At 1830 I arrived at an amazing pilgrim hostel Vilatejo (€15) - laundry included, very helpful hospitalero! Good, that I had a reservation, because it was full already. I've got a shared room with two women - one from Porto Rico (first santiago) and one from Holland (5x). For dinner I went to the next bar and had a Russian salad and beer.    Read more

  • Peter SchillerCamino PortuguésPeter Schiller
    Quinta Burra

    P2D2 V.Franca to Porto de Muge, 36/158

    August 2, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    700 Not very pleasant walk along the train line on either paved or dirty roads. Nothing to buy on the way (at least there were some blackberries) until Azambuja (17km), where I bought some drinks and fruit at Aldi and had one beer in the town centre.
    Next 11km through endless tomato field - some of them were already ripe ... and good. The way was not so bad, but it was very very hot - 42°. Eventually I came to a small village (Regengo) and get 2 beer in Cafe Campino. My T-shirt was completely wet from sweat.
    Another 2 beer 3km later (only 1e each). The last 5km was nice along the river with lot of blackberries around. Nevertheless I was very happy when I eventually arrived at Quinta Burra, where I made reservation in the morning. The hospitalera welcomes me with two beer (later I got also a melon and an orange juice). I was the only guest today.
    She came from Madeira, bought a farm ruin here and had rebuild it. After same time pilgrims started to ring at the door looking for help (there are not many accommodation on this Camino), so she came to the idea to open an alberque.

    I was exhausted!    Read more

  • Peter SchillerCamino PortuguésPeter Schiller
    Vegetable soupRest in the fieldThe shortcuts were not so good

    P2D3 to Azinhaga 40/198 km

    August 3, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 35 °C

    I slept well (despite the barking dogs). After small breakfast I've got my stamp, paid for the night (20+5e) and set off for Santarém - again 15km through tomato fields as well as some vineyards. In Santarém in a tourist office I've booked a room (or bed) in the next possible accommodation Casa da Azzancha in Azinhaga. So another 26km in the heat. I hope there will be some bars on the way, otherwise I don't know how can I survive it.
    With the last rests of my strength I reach a cafe in Vale de Figueira (26km) and have some beer, coke and water. Still 14 km to go, maybe less, if I find some shortcuts.
    The heat was like in hell. The shortcut weren't there, I've tried one and ended in a corn field, there were no place to make a break, the only freshening was once from the land improvement pipes.
    After some beer, water and coke in Pombalinho I managed the last 2.5 km and arrived eventually in Casa da Azzancha (45e - single room).    Read more

  • Peter SchillerCamino PortuguésPeter Schiller
    Casa de Azzancha

    P2D4 through the hell to Tomar 25/223

    August 4, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 38 °C

    I couldn't sleep because of the heat, barking dogs, muscle pain and blisters. Took some painkillers but it didn't seem to help much. Eventually I felt asleep and slept well, waking up at 645 - same like yesterday.
    The way leads on paved roads = bad for my blisters but at least not much traffic.
    First beer after 17 km in Pedregoso. Tuna-tomato-onion salad 2km later. I thought I can manage the next 7km to the next bar and then wait there until the heat cease. The path was nice through eucalyptus trees, but the heat become unbearable.I couldn't walk anymore, so I lied down on the ground to get some rest, but it wasn't much better - it was hot even in the shadows of the trees and the light breeze was hot as well. I tried to walk again, but after 500m I had to stop again, so I decided to wait until everything, then walk to the next village and take a taxi to Tomar.
    But after maybe 1 hour I've realised that if I stay here any longer I will spend all my water, so I forced myself to get up and walk very slowly. After 1 km there was a farm in the forest. Two man were just starting a car, going to the next village. I asked then for water and the for the ride. They took me, and as they saw my exhaustion, they drove me all the way to my hotel in Tomar. Thank you !!
    So I've skipped about 12 km of unpleasant walk along a main street. I've got a nice room in Residencial Uniāo (35e). After some recovery I went out to have dinner (soup, salad, beer). I slept like a log.    Read more

  • Peter SchillerCamino PortuguésPeter Schiller

    P2D5 Tomar 3/226km

    August 5, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    In the morning I felt better, but after the long walking on paved roads I've got big painful bloody blisters on both my feet. So I decided to make a small break. First I wanted to go by bus to Fatima, and continue walking from there tomorrow. But unfortunately the bus to Fatima went on Sunday only early in the morning and in the evening - so I stayed here. Tomorrow the heat wave should be over and even the way should be better going through the woods.
    After a morning coffee I've visited the fortified Templar convent on the hill above the town - quite amazing.
    Than I rested in the hotel.
    I was about to give up and go by bus and train to Porto, or at least to have another rest day. The blisters needed more time to heal.
    During the dinner (tuna salad + wine) I found quite good last minute offers for a room in Fatima ( I booked one for 23e in a 3* hotel). I can take the 1250 bus.    Read more

  • Peter SchillerCamino PortuguésPeter Schiller

    P2D6 Fátima /54y

    August 6, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    I woke up quite late and stayed in the hotel until 10. Then I went to the bus station and bought a ticket to Fátima (4e). Than I waited in a cafe - had some coffee, orange juice, lemonade, ice cream, coke an a cake.
    The bus went through every village on the way - so the 30km took 1h. Than it continued to Nazaré. If I knew it before, I would maybe go there and spend a day on the beach. But I had allready booked a room in Coimbra for tomorrow (18e). I will either take a bus there or walk for 20km and go by train.
    My room in the Imperhotel was pure luxury, definitely the best yet. And this time I managed to get one outside the tourist areas, so it should be quieter this night.
    There were lot of tourists in the town.
    For a dinner I went to 'Pregaria da Iria' next to my hotel, which was also recommend by TripAdvisor.    Read more

  • Peter SchillerCamino PortuguésPeter Schiller
    not ripe yetone of the rare nice parts of the wayThe oragnes were goodBamboo forest in a park in Coimbra

    P2D7 Fátima to Caxarias 22/248km

    August 7, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    800 I can walk again! So I took the way to the railway station in Caxarias: not very nice walk, mostly on paved roads, some with lot of traffic. And this with the totally irrespective Portuguese drivers is quite a dangerous task - I think I have enough of this camino.
    First stop (after 18km) in Cafe Vincente: beer, coke. I bought online a ticket to Coimbra for the next train at 1451 for 11.90e.    Read more

  • Peter SchillerCamino PortuguésPeter Schiller
    Igreja de Se Velha - I've got a stamp there

    Coimbra 7/255km

    August 7, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Capital city of Portugal in 12-13 century. Quite a hilly town with nice buildings and lot of tourists. The accommodation (18e) was nice, the check in little bit confusing. There was nobody there and 5 other people from Argentina had just arrived as well. I've called the number on the wall and then I've got instructions how to enter the house (there was a coded box with the key), and who has which room. But everything went all right. After a shower, laundry and a coffee I've booked the next night in Silvalde (near Porto). Than I went to the town for a small walk - 7km, had beer, soup and wine and went back to the hotel. There I've met the owner (she was from Russia, living here for 7 years) and spoke with her little bit about the life in Portugal.Read more

  • Peter SchillerCamino PortuguésPeter Schiller
    Delicious grilled squidPortuguese brandyRelaxing on the balcony in Silvalde

    P2D8 Espinho/Silvalde 9/264km

    August 8, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    I took the ICE at 1134 (12.9e) to Espinho and was on the beach again.
    I walked slowly on the beach towards my accommodation having some beers and a lunch (delicious grilled squid) on the way.
    It was a nice guest house - quite expensive(55e) but nice, room with balcony and a distant sea view. I've spent maybe 1 hour talking with the owner mostly about tourism in Portugal and drinking port wine.Read more

  • Peter SchillerCamino PortuguésPeter Schiller

    P2D9 to Porto, 24/288km

    August 9, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    730 Nice walk on an elevated wooden trail along the coast with lot of cafes. First coffee+orange juice in Miramar after first 10km, than beer+o.juice at 14km.
    I have crossed the river (Rio Douro) by a boat-taxi (2e), so I was spared climbing up to the high highway bridge up and down.
    I arrived to the apartment Taipas at 1400 and was astonished by the luxury.    Read more

  • Peter SchillerCamino PortuguésPeter Schiller

    Meeting Romi 6/294km

    August 9, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    After shower and some rest a went to the cathedral to get a stamp and a credential for Romi (2e). Than I went to the metro station Trindande.
    There I waited for her arrival, the plane was delayed but at 1645 she finally arrived. We went to our apartment and booked the accommodation for the day after tomorrow: it wasn't easy, everything full, we found only a caravan in a camping place for 96e and we'll have to walk 30km.
    Then we went to the centre and had dinner (salad+port wine)    Read more

  • Peter SchillerCamino PortuguésPeter Schiller

    P3D1 first day with Romi 17/311km

    August 10, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    800 after a morning coffee we left our nice apartment and walked along the river to the ocean and than on a promenade further towards our first destination (guest house Casarao Paraiso).
    Orange juice and beer at the first cafe on the beach after 5km and a delicious lunch in Leça da Palmeira (soup, grilled fish - duck with rice, beer and a bottle of red wine). We met there a girl from Pilsen at her first day on Camino. Romi forgot there her walking sticks, but one of them was damaged allready, so they weren't worth to go back.
    We arrived at the guest house quite early (1500) but for Romi it was enough for the first day.    Read more

  • Peter SchillerCamino PortuguésPeter Schiller

    P3D2 along the coast II 12km/339km

    August 11, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We could skip 4km by taking the metro from Vila do Conde to Póvoa de Varzim, where we had light lunch (soup, salad, beer). Than on the way coffee and red wine and in the last supermarket before the camping we bought some wine and olives and cheese for the evening. We arrived at the camping at 1700 after 28km and got our nice but expensive caravan (97e).Read more

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