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Wandering Europe on two wheels
  • Liz Hoenig
  • Liz Hoenig

Wandering Europe on two wheels

Starting in Bordeaux, France - we work our way west to the Atlantic and then south towards the Mediterranean Sea and along the coast. Wandering, exploring, learning to love this unique landscape. Read more
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  • Trip start
    November 6, 2024
    Liz HoenigWandering Europe on two wheelsLiz Hoenig
    Bordeaux, lovely walkable European streets.

    Arrived in France!

    November 7, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    After a 9 hour flight arrived in Paris for a layover before flying to Bordeaux. Lucky me, sat next to a French teacher, who gave me some tips and practice with my French. Found a little nook on the floor at the Paris airport to do some stretching and put my legs up the wall.

    Spent the afternoon in Bordeaux, a bit like zombies after a day of travel, and marveling at this beautiful city, ancient and modern entwined along the massive river Garrone.    Read more

  • Liz HoenigWandering Europe on two wheelsLiz Hoenig

    Bike unpacked body adjusts

    November 8, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Day two in Bordeaux, beautiful bountiful petite dejeuner (breakfast) a walk to the local market and then bike unpacked!

    Bending smooshed fenders, getting hands dirty, unwrapping and reconnecting. My Jamis Aurora steel frame road bike is nearly 30 years old - but she is a comfortable, stable ride. It feels like she’s a bosom companion on a big adventure. 😌.

    More walking along cobblestones ogling ancient architecture in the afternoon and then napping to adjust to the time change. Walking the paths today along the Garonne River that I will ride towards the Atlantic on Sunday!    Read more

  • Liz HoenigWandering Europe on two wheelsLiz Hoenig
    3Yoga and stretching in the stairwell
    Swimming pool entrance gate

    Ready for the swimming pool?

    November 9, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Today was a day of immersing more into Bordeaux’s community. Took an uber to the local swimming pool and swam laps in a gorgeous 50 meter pool, with a massive glass ceiling and view of the nearby cathedral.

    Hilarious efforts to speak with the French, mostly pantomime 😀. They informed us that the sexes were mixed in the changing area and then had a shocked look when we asked if everyone disrobed together!? No no no! they said, you go inside a cabinet to change!

    Beautiful boulangerie breads, a stroll to the public garden which closed just as we arrived. Then a ride on the tram along the waterfront at night, all lit up with beautiful lights.    Read more

  • Liz HoenigWandering Europe on two wheelsLiz Hoenig
    2

    Towards the Atlantic

    November 10, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Leaving Bordeaux, we ride along the Garrone River and into a more rural France. Destination is Lacanau, a lake several miles from the Atlantic Ocean. This area was marsh land many hundreds of years ago, and was transformed into a pine forest by Napoleon- who planted pines to “drain the swamps” and create wealth for the locals. We ride on a dedicated bike path the entire way, going through tiny villages.Read more

  • Liz HoenigWandering Europe on two wheelsLiz Hoenig

    The western sea shore of France

    November 11, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Today we reached the sea! The west coast of France, the eastern side of the wide Atlantic. A very unfamiliar place to me, the girl brought up on the west coast of North America. I have traveled here only once.

    I’m surprised that most of the French do not go barefoot on the beach. I’m shocked! The sand is soft, fine, powdery and feels amazing on the skin 😌.

    We stayed near a “pond” last night near Lacanau. Hosted by a sweet kitty and serenaded by flocks of European birdsong. The French word “etang” translates to pond in English. But this pond is 7 miles long!

    The lovely haunting call of the Common Crane greeted us in the morning. Tomorrow we go search for them along the marshy coast.    Read more

  • Liz HoenigWandering Europe on two wheelsLiz Hoenig
    Napoleon's forest
    Unburdened!2Spectacular swamps!

    Home of the cranes

    November 12, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Today I removed my panniers, put on my tennis shoes and went to visit the European Cranes. Our hosts Silvan and Christov from Lake Lacanau had told us of the “very wild” place near the ocean where the cranes rested during their winter migration. I was immediately captivated - and convinced my intrepid traveling companion to do an excursion.

    The Reserve Naturelle de E’tang de Cousseau is a remnant of the original marshlands that used to cover much of this area. As we learned, Napoleon had planted forests of pine to create wealth and drain the swamps. I anticipated a wonderland of bird life occupying this reserve and was not disappointed. Cranes greeted us, along with plant diversity and a mosaic of freshwater marshes. Three species of oaks, ferns, birch, and pine. It was a complex tumble compared to orderly plantings of pine forests nearby.

    An ideal excursion, riding along sandy trails to get to the trailhead and then hiking alone for a few hours with few other humans.    Read more

  • Liz HoenigWandering Europe on two wheelsLiz Hoenig

    Winding through woodlands, vineyards

    November 15, 2024 in France ⋅ 🌙 6 °C

    Oh my! More spectacular, autumn weather today cycling along a beautiful path through ancient French villages. There are walking paths also scattered along the way, linking villages.

    The terrain was more challenging today - and our mapping devices took us on a few wild goose chases 🤪. We ended our day in the early evening - riding with our headlights and under a full moon.

    Our hostel host Julian greeted us with a glass of red wine and a dinner of beef bourguignon! Ahhhh Frances!!!    Read more

  • Liz HoenigWandering Europe on two wheelsLiz Hoenig
    2

    Canal de Garrone

    November 16, 2024 in France ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    The last two days have been spent riding along the canal path. This canal originates from the Garrone River, which feeds this entire region, beginning in the French alps and the southern Pyrenees. We began our trip several days ago at the estuary of this wide ranging river along the Atlantic coast, and are now working our way south towards her source.

    The canals were built hundreds of years ago to make transportation to the Mediterranean Sea more accessible for commerce. No engines, just strong animals pulling narrow barges full of merchandise. They are created by diverting water from the main river into a series of locks, that control water flow and levels.

    Around us are small French villages and vast agriculture - fruit, grains, nuts, vineyards. Fertile soils from the river floodplain.

    Our sweetest gift - was stumbling on a local French market - full of fruits, breads, vegetables, meats - and fromage (cheese) heaven!!!    Read more

  • Liz HoenigWandering Europe on two wheelsLiz Hoenig

    A day of rest ? Agen, France

    November 17, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Another lovely day riding along the canal and crossing ancient aqueducts today. And…After 5 straight days of cycling, my crotch needed a rest! So we’ve stopped for a rest day in Agen, a beautiful little ancient- modern city 🌃 n the Garrone River.

    We wandered the streets, danced with tree roots climbing stone walls, climbed a hilltop to get a view across the river floodplain, ate amazing meals including steak frites, and yes - rested 🤭    Read more

  • Liz HoenigWandering Europe on two wheelsLiz Hoenig

    Plane trees, channeled water

    November 19, 2024 in France ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    More beautiful countryside along the Canal de Garrone today heading for the village of Moissac. Autumn colors persist, and the weather gifted us today with cool weather and a strong tailwind from the west most of the day.

    The canal and the large, winding Garrone River both kept us company today. River to the right (droite) canal to our left (gauche). Mute swans hanging out on the river catching our eye.

    The Plane Tree lines many of the canals, and you see photos of them here in my log from today. They were planted for firewood and I imagine shade, brought in from elsewhere. These spectacular trees are the same genus Platanus, as the California native sycamore tree that I grew up with in the east Bay Area. The broad spreading branches and textured light bark contrast with the bright blue skies today. Brings back many pleasurable youthful memories of lying under these trees and looking up at the blue skies.    Read more

  • Liz HoenigWandering Europe on two wheelsLiz Hoenig
    Local chocolatier
    Ancient aqueduct crossing the Garrone RiverChurch cemetery-all above groundOnly dry spot, under the bridge 😊No idea what he's saying, but sounds like "use your legs!"

    Rainy weather, lunch under a bridge

    November 20, 2024 in France ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Before a needed rest day, the rain gear came out and was well tested! After leaving Moissac, picking up a bit of food (including chocolate), we launched.

    Most of the day had drizzles, some downpours- and eventually let up near the end of the ride. Lunch under a bridge, on my trusty pareo. Captured a video of some young rowers along the canal who came out when the rain let up 😌.Read more

  • Liz HoenigWandering Europe on two wheelsLiz Hoenig

    Waterways of France

    November 21, 2024 in France ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    Voies navigables de France (VNF) is the agency responsible for managing and protecting the navigable canals and waterways created for tourism and commerce- like the canal de Garonne! There are 8500 kilometers of these waterways across France.

    You can imagine the complexity of keeping these waterways maintained, with all the changes in weather, water flow. And many of these canals are treasured antiquities now - so incorporating modern management techniques without destroying the ancient qualities must be a unique challenge.

    We’ve seen active crews all along the route. Working in the canals, on the trails, with the electronic systems. They are an active organization 😌.

    The Garonne River feeds these canals and waterways, and is the source of flow for them. They criss cross each other- and the natural river system, watershed is always present- nearby. Beginning in the Pyrenees and a bit in the southern alps, the Garrone River is 329 miles long. The Canal des Deux Mers links the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea.    Read more

  • Liz HoenigWandering Europe on two wheelsLiz Hoenig

    Toulouse and Canal du Midi

    November 23, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Another big city experience in Toulouse, with so many people it seemed unreal! I kept imagining that a sports event had just let out - but it was really just a vibrant French City on a Friday evening 🤪, how naive of me!

    All ages, colors, sizes - just an active City. Many runners and cyclists on the canal paths- many “Bon jours” along the way.

    Long day of riding with a stiff southeast headwind coming off the Mediterranean Sea. Took advantage of having a large riding friend to tuck in and draft along the way, made it much easier!

    More astounding beauty on the Canal du Midi, with oak trees lining the path, and rich agricultural fields and woodlands. Crested the divide between the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea! It’s all downhill to the Med from here 😌.    Read more

  • Liz HoenigWandering Europe on two wheelsLiz Hoenig

    Clearly, not in les Etats Unis (USA)!

    November 24, 2024 in France ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

    A long, scenic, grueling day against a strong southeast headwind. At times, felt like I was barely moving forward!

    Riding down towards the Mediterranean Sea - the air and the weather is warmer and drier. In a few days I’ll get to dip my toes, and body in the salty waters of the Mediterranean!

    Now- however- I am a bit of a foreign princess living next to an ancient castle in Carcassone. Taking a few days of rest, exploring the castle and walled city, and surrounding village - taking a swim at the beautiful pool - and taking a bath 😊    Read more

  • Liz HoenigWandering Europe on two wheelsLiz Hoenig
    Beautiful new pool and fitness facility in Carcassone, FranceEvery little village has a tiny and tidy recycling center

    Rivers, canals, country roads

    November 26, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Two lovely rest days in Carcassone, getting to know this village. The Aude River runs right through town, and there is a spectacular walking path and brand new outdoor swimming pool next to the river that I enjoyed immensely.

    They are preparing for a month long holiday extravaganza with lights, ice rinks and Ferris wheels. And we enjoyed walking through the town, enjoying the walkable, narrow, cobbled streets with bistros, Boulangerie, fromagerie and marches within walking distance.

    The ride today was along quiet roads through vineyards and along the canal, ending at a sweet BandB in a tiny village. It was recommended by a couple on YouTube who did a similar trip by bike last year.    Read more

  • Liz HoenigWandering Europe on two wheelsLiz Hoenig
    Sunset across the marshAmerican Thanksgiving, VERY rare boeufInto the salty Mediterranean!Velo (bike) parking lot

    Flamingo greeting at the Mediterranean

    November 28, 2024 in France ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Hard to imagine riding across a vast salty marsh on the Mediterranean Sea with our loaded bikes - and what do we hear? The call of a flamingo from right behind us! Our welcome to the town of Gruissan, France.

    Sunny with a cool sea breeze, we take our first dip in the sea, spend American Thanksgiving here, and decide to extend our stay for more exploring. This is a coastal town, bordered by a national park. So there are long walks, trails and a village where I walked this morning to get fresh baguettes, croissants and fruit for breakfast.

    And our little villa faces south- so I can enjoy sunrise, sunset - and afternoon naps with the doors open on the terrace. 😌    Read more

  • Liz HoenigWandering Europe on two wheelsLiz Hoenig

    Market, Salt, Mediterranean Forest

    December 1, 2024 in France ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    The coastal village of Gruissan has been our temporary home for the last few days. We enjoy settling in and getting to know a place-and this was the perfect choice!

    Each morning, I walked to the Boulanger for baguettes and croissants, yogurt and fruit at the local market. The Saturday market is vibrant and extensive. We ride bikes to the salt ponds for a tour- spoken in French to us, French locals and Spaniards from Barcelona. All our exploring is on foot or two wheels.

    Then, we visited the forest - such a pleasure for me. The extensive pine, cypress and oak forest was uniquely rugged. Rosemary shrubs buzzing with honeybees made up a large proportion of the native understory. We lunched with a view of the sea.    Read more

  • Liz HoenigWandering Europe on two wheelsLiz Hoenig

    Coastal pathway by the sea

    December 4, 2024 in France ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Two days of cycling the southern coast of France and following the edge of the Mers (sea) de Mediterranean. Long days with the wind mostly behind us. Our legs and core getting stronger, crotches more tolerant of hours in the saddle.

    I’m enjoying our off the beaten path routes, often winding along tiny roads, in order to bypass car traffic. The wild beach dunes, marshes and forests appeal to me. 😌, and there are many along this coast.

    The port city of Sete was bustling with cruise ships next the small fishermen operations. And the flamingo 🦩 were at the marshes to greet us again as we rode into the Rhône River basin and the City of Montpelier.

    Charley has become a masterful urban navigator as we wind through cities big and small. Our navigation puzzling has been a fun and challenging part of the journey.

    Day after tomorrow we hop on a bus and say “enchante” to France and head towards Italy!    Read more

  • Liz HoenigWandering Europe on two wheelsLiz Hoenig

    Gotta stay a while longer…

    December 6, 2024 in France ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Well, plans changed again - as I contemplated leaving the south of France and getting on a bus to Venice. My time here is nearing and end - as I will head back to “Les Etats Units” in 10 days. Cycling in France has captured my heart 💜.

    So…Charley kindly agreed to this change and delay a departure to Italy for his extended ride. Cycling by the sea, with blue skies, salty air snd and a tailwind behind you is a magical experience. Bike paths are everywhere- and flamingos greet us at every marshland.

    There are few human crowds- beaches and venues are sparse compared to peak season. My experience- this is the time to visit- temps are cool, lodging costs low. For us, a better sense of the wild Mediterranean.

    These shores are well armored and manipulated by humans. Massive marinas at most cities, even the small ones. Gruissan even had apartments for sale that came with a boat slip.

    Le Grande Motte and Le Grau du Rois on the southern coast could not be more different! The first is a modern, space-aged architecturally designed community. The second- older vintage and mellowed. Loving the unique diversity of these villages.    Read more

  • Liz HoenigWandering Europe on two wheelsLiz Hoenig

    Cranes welcome us to Provence!

    December 7, 2024 in France ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    A flock of hundreds of Common Cranes welcomed us as we rode into Arles in the Provence region. These are the same species we saw in Lacanau Ocean, at the very beginning of our wander - perhaps we’re migrating in the same pathway?

    Now in the Rhône River watershed and the vast Camarque estuary - we cycled along the river, farmlands and skies with colors and textures changing moment by moment.

    A welcome tailwind pushed us along.    Read more

  • Liz HoenigWandering Europe on two wheelsLiz Hoenig
    Black wheat galettes- pure French!

    Many layers of an Ancient City

    December 7, 2024 in France ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

    Ahhh! The many ages of Arles, France. Development by humans goes back to 600 BCE, and civilizations have come and gone since then, leaving impressions and remnants. Wanderings the alleyways and cobbles, I can imagine how this place has transformed.

    The mighty Rhône River flows through the City, encased by massive stone walls. A major transit way for shipping and commerce. I cannot touch this river, or even get close to the water without fear of falling into its swirling current. So I must be content to admire from the steep edges, and extensive stone walkways.

    Ate the most amazing ratatouille black wheat (aka buckwheat) crepes here! Lots of time to get lost in the maze of an ancient city.    Read more

  • Liz HoenigWandering Europe on two wheelsLiz Hoenig
    Typical bike storage location, in a basement garageSparkly for the holidaysMis Tic is an avant garde artist whose work is featured at the Pope's PalaceCat lover from Singapore

    The heart of Provence, Avignon

    December 10, 2024 in France ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    The wide Rhône River was our companion as we worked our way towards Avignon. Ancient castles appeared as roadside lunch stops.

    And then we crossed a beautiful bridge into Avignon- a walled ancient City- with a rich history and French flair. Our entry was through a “door” in a massive stone wall encircling the town! Into a magical maze of cobblestone streets, Pope palaces, Christmas decor, and French tourists. The French love Christmas and every village has decorations and sparkly festive lights.

    Charley got to live his childhood dream of being Pope a bit during a visit to the Pope’s palace.    Read more

  • Liz HoenigWandering Europe on two wheelsLiz Hoenig
    Typical morning at the Boulangerie

    Winding rural roads, French Christmas

    December 13, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    It’s full on holiday season here in southern France - and it is sparkly and fun! 🤩 I’m not much for the usual glitz- but the French just do it so well. Imagine tasteful, cheerful and sparkly - that’s it.

    We arrived in the small town of Salon de Provence- and similar to Avignon- were greeted by an ancient gateway and holiday glee and sparkle! ✨ For us - jaw dropping after a long, gorgeous ride amongst meadows, pastures, vineyards and oak groves.

    Now more wandering along narrow cobblestone streets with lovely bakeries and relaxed, cheerful French people (who all walk very fast - btw). Tomorrow we depart for Marseille.    Read more

  • Liz HoenigWandering Europe on two wheelsLiz Hoenig

    Enchanté France!

    December 14, 2024 in France ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    I adore the French word “enchanté”, it translates to “enchanted to meet you”. That’s exactly how I feel about my nearly 6 week cycling tour of the southern portion of this land.

    We’ve arrived in Marseille, after a wonderful, hilly day riding through oak groves, rocky promontories under clear blue skies.

    It’s chilly now - 50 degrees F - but pedaling and good gear keeps us warm. We always stop for a yummy lunch and picnic during the day, and today’s was again perfect. Fresh pain, frommage and fruit. Perhaps a bit of chocolate!

    Now, it’s transition time for me. Preparing my mind, body to get on an airplane and “fly” halfway across the globe. Back to my home in the Pacific Northwest. Charley will carry on to Italy, Croatia and farther south - “bon journey!”    Read more

    Trip end
    December 16, 2024
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