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Ireland, Portugal and Spain

October - November 2018
We are travelling for six weeks, starting in Dublin and ending in Barcelona. Read more
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  • TravelerIreland, Portugal and Spain
    Day 1

    Sydney Airport

    October 3, 2018 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    After months of planning, a few hiccups along the way, plus a heap of work to do, we are finally on our way to Ireland.

    Bathroom renovations, work to be done before Robyn takes off Term 4 with LSL, and an increase in tuning work have meant that we worked up until the last possible minute. In fact, Richard and I finished installing the shower screen around lunchtime on Tuesday, and with someone house sitting for us, this was an essential item!

    All this last minute rush was not helped by receiving letters from NAB on Monday asking for more information on the disputed credit card transactions relating to the collapse of the Irish travel agency we were using! They required the info by October 10 so I had to trawl through emails and bank statements over many months to ensure that I had everything that they might require. I finished at 8 pm last night and we posted a huge pack of info this morning at the airport.

    In order to ensure that we were at Sydney Airport in plenty of time for our 3 pm flight for Doha we took the 6.30 am flight from Armidale. Our flight was due to land in Dublin at approximately 7.30 am local time, a long haul in anybody’s language.    Read more

  • TravelerIreland, Portugal and Spain
    Day 2

    First day in Ireland

    October 4, 2018 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Our plane arrived at Dublin Airport dead on 7.30 am and as it was not even a quarter full we were off and through customs in no time at all. I think the customs officer was a bit bemused with the fact that we were not able to give him a good idea of what Irish attractions we were here to see!

    The Skylink 757 was waiting for us when we walked out to the bus section and in no time we were on our way into town, through the very long Dublin Tunnel. Finding The Alex, our hotel for the next three nights, was easy: we nearly fell into it. Unfortunately it was too early to have a room ready for us so we left our luggage there and headed off to the Tourist Office. We were given maps and general info, and the young lady seemed to know what she was talking about, although this was later to be found incorrect.

    We headed down Grafton Street, a fairly upmarket section of town, and stopped off at Burey’s Oriental Cafe for a coffee and something to eat. Then we took a long stroll around St Stephen’s Green, a most delightful park. The grass is just so green, and the vegetation lovely, all within a few minutes stroll of the town centre.

    It was time to see a few museums, most of which are in one huge block, just across from Trinity College. We found the Natural History Museum extremely interesting. The early tribes in Ireland were master craftsmen, with wonderful exhibits of gold jewellery, pottery, etc and a couple of “Bog Men”, people who had been killed and buried and then preserved in bogs. Very interesting. The Heraldic Museum is no more but in its place we saw a museum devoted to Ireland’s involvement in WW1.

    By then we were flagging so went back to the hotel to unpack and unwind. Dinner was at the Ginger Man Hotel, just across the street, where we had a delightful meal in a friendly environment.    Read more

  • TravelerIreland, Portugal and Spain
    1
    Day 3

    Another day in Dublin

    October 5, 2018 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    I rang Mike Whiteley after breakfast to see how Sue was faring. He had sent a text that indicated that she is beyond further medical treatment and is now in palliative care. They are hoping Sam will be able to get home in time from Ireland, and perhaps her brother Phillip.

    We set off with good intentions to visit Kilmainham Gaol. This institution, which was closed back in the 1920s, has a long and not so great history. According to the lady in the Visitors Information Centre it was too far to walk, and too complicated to tell us how to take a bus. In addition, the map she gave us was not to scale, so we should take no notice of it!!!!

    So ... we headed off after a good breakfast. After walking for quite some time, past Christ Church Cathedral and the Guinness factory, we eventually asked a couple walking the other way where it was. Their answer led us completely astray and way past the correct turn to get to it.

    Anyway, we eventually arrived at the Gaol. We could not do a guided tour because they were all sold out for the day, but the Museum was free and what an eye-opener it turned out to be. Built with the best of intentions it nevertheless was a harsh place and was where the insurgents from the Easter Uprising were held and executed.

    One of the more interesting exhibits was about a certain Professor Samuel Houghton who developed the formula for ensuring that a prisoner to be hung had his neck broken. This ended the inhumane practice of hanging where death was caused by strangulation!

    After the dark and unsettling exhibitions on the ground floor and first floor it was encouraging to see the Nelson Mandela exhibition on the top floor. Many years ago, an Irish worker in a department store refused to handle produce from South Africa, and this eventually became a movement against apartheid. In this way Ireland led the way in the international movement against the South African apartheid regime. Upon his release from prison Mandela ensured that Ireland was one of the first places he visited, hence the exhibition. It, too, was truly moving.

    On our way back into town we called in to the Guinness tourist facility. The queue for those who didn’t have an internet booked ticket was soooo long that we thought it would be best to come back tomorrow. On enquiring about the price it didn’t seem like such good value. When we stopped at a pub for a drink I had a Guinness, for the first time. I can’t see what people see in it, so that made it an easy decision not to go back tomorrow.

    Christ Church Cathedral wanted 7 euros to visit so we gave that a miss as well. While I had hoped to ring there this evening for practice it didn’t really fit in with our schedule, so we went out to dinner at an Italian restaurant instead and then came back to our hotel and collapsed.    Read more

  • TravelerIreland, Portugal and Spain
    Day 4

    Day 3 in Dublin

    October 6, 2018 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    Dublin Castle is a popular attraction with guided tours often being booked out, so we lined up first thing this morning for the first tour. It really is an interesting place, even though there is very little left of the original castle.

    The sheer opulence was impressive and when you take into account that it was often used for unimportant, i.e. social, occasions it was a waste of money from an Irish perspective.

    Next we headed over the Luffy to the GPO where there is a splendid museum that documents the 1916 Easter Uprising. Too many civilians were killed for it to have been a success at the time.

    Last on our list of attractions was the EPIC museum of Irish emigration. While the great famine was mentioned it was really about the reasons the Irish left their homeland, and how many of them ended up making a success of their lives by doing so. Many parts were very moving, especially the transportation of women and religious.

    Being time for dinner we headed back to our hotel, looking for another nearby pub that served good food in a quiet environment. No such luck, so we ended up back at the Ginger Man pub where we had another nice meal.    Read more

  • TravelerIreland, Portugal and Spain
    Day 5

    Cork via Limerick

    October 7, 2018 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    After one last fine breakfast at The Alex in Dublin, we took a taxi to the Thrifty depot to collect our car. We had decided to extend the hire period and also to upsize a little so we ended up driving away with a Ford Focus diesel. Fine car, and soooo economical - 63mpg or more.

    We headed off to Cork, but the signs to Limerick were enticing so we headed WSW and ended up in central Limerick. It was not the most impressive city we have been to, so after a coffee we headed across to Cork where we had a hotel booked for the night.

    The hotel was in a great location, but a bit shabby. Nevertheless we headed off for a walk, exploring various churches and then down to the centre of town. We found a pub that served a reasonable meal, but it was a bit noisy. The locals were really friendly, something we have found everywhere.    Read more

  • TravelerIreland, Portugal and Spain
    1
    Day 6

    Off to Killorglin

    October 8, 2018 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    The highlight of today was visiting the Titanic Experience in Cobh. Cobh was the last port of call before the Titanic headed off to New York. 123 passengers embarked, whilst 7 disembarked, and 1 jumped ship. How lucky were those 8!

    The display gives a pretty graphic account of what happened, and why. It was just a litany of errors and omissions all the way, and there is no way so many people should have lost their lives. It was a sobering experience and there were not many laughs as we headed out the exit.

    We walked around Cobh for a while, explored the Cathedral and had a coffee, and then it was time to head to Killorglin where we had two nights booked.

    The Rivers Edge Guest House was hard to find, mainly because it was in plain sight, but when we found it we were welcomed by Sean, a typical Irishman. The place is nice and clean and it seems that we are the only guests tonight. With no restaurant we were left to finding a suitable pub, and we did. The Bunkers Bar was quiet, friendly, and served a good pub meal.    Read more

  • TravelerIreland, Portugal and Spain
    Day 7

    Ring of Kerry

    October 9, 2018 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    We heard first thing this morning that Sue Whiteley died earlier today. This cast a pall over our day, especially as we will not be able to return for her funeral.

    It was pretty grey and overcast this morning, with a good wind blowing. Our host at Rivers Edge Guest House mentioned that it was “a bit blustery” which was the understatement of the day.

    The Ring of Kerry is a great drive around many of the best features of Southern Ireland, and is approximately 180kms in length. On any day there are around 60 buses doing their version of this. I say “their” version, because there is no way a bus can get to some of the more out of the way places along the way.

    Rather than try to fit everything in we just ambled along, stopping when we were intrigued by something. We were disappointed that the ferry to Valencia Island had stopped for the season, so we had to take the long way around to get to Knightstown. The wind along the edge of the water was just howling and was so strong that Robyn wouldn’t walk out along the jetty. Perhaps she thought she would be blown away!

    We took the long road around from Portmagee to Waterville, travelling on very narrow coastal roads. We saw a disused slate mine, an Abbey that had been the replacement for Skillag Michael but was now in disrepair, a number of castles of which there were only remnants, and some beautiful scenery.

    By the time we arrived in Sneem it was getting late so we had a coffee and then headed on a true back road up through Glencar to Killorglin. Honestly, in my work I travel along backroads regularly, but the one over the mountain pass from Glencar to Killorglin makes them look normal. The sheep, on the unfenced road, were more like mountain goats, and the road was almost impassable for two vehicles with trailers!

    Dinner was at the same pub - different food but the same happy, smiling and friendly staff.    Read more

  • TravelerIreland, Portugal and Spain
    Day 8

    Foynes Flying Boat Museum

    October 10, 2018 in Ireland ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    Killorglin was a nice place to visit and the hospitality at Rivers Edge Guest House was great. However, it was time to move on.

    Whilst in Limerick a few days ago, we came across information about the Foynes Flying Boat Museum. We couldn’t get there at the time but we thought it a good place to visit when next nearby. And so was the case.

    There were 6 years of flying boat service in and out of Foynes, 1939-1945, and then it was over. The Boeing 314s were, I suppose, at the end of the evolutionary tree, and by 1946 land based planes had taken over.

    The thought of flying from America to Ireland and having both sleeping quarters AND a 14-seat dining room, whilst in the air, must have seemed almost implausible at the time. Nevertheless, that was what was promised and provided. Naturally, it was limited to those with serious money, such as politicians, high ranking armed forces personnel, and film stars such as Maureen O’Hara.

    From there we headed off to do a bit more of the Atlantic Way. We travelled on the ferry from Tarbert Port and then drove on the Atlantic Way as far as Spanish Point before we ran out of time and headed to our bed for the night, in the Rowan Tree Hostel in Ennis.

    This is our first night in a youth hostel and first impressions were very good. We walked up to the local supermarket, bought some provisions and had a relaxing dinner. Robyn had a bad experience with Scrabble and gave up early on!    Read more

  • TravelerIreland, Portugal and Spain
    Day 9

    North of Galway

    October 11, 2018 in Ireland ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    Breakfast in our Youth Hostel was just fine, for the money. We have been spoilt with served cooked breakfasts, but this morning we had to look after ourselves. The biggest problem was being out in time to avoid a parking ticket!

    The weather was not too good but we headed up towards the Cliffs of Moher, which as everyone knows is a classic destination. The Doolan Ferry Co had cancelled for the day, and as visibility was not great, plus the swell was a bit high, we didn’t avail ourselves of the other operator!

    We then drove on, through Galway and along the Atlantic Way. It follows the coast very much, notwithstanding the condition of the roads. We went from reasonable “N” roads to those where you had to stop and let some other bigger car or bus past. The weather varied from raining to overcast to sunny.

    Finally we arrived in Clifden, our home for the next two days. It seems a quaint village, but it does have at least four supermarkets so we should be able to eat tonight.

    Our place for the night had been rearranged to a better room, but as we really, really wanted laundry facilities we had to take our earlier booking, which was not quite as roomy.

    As I write this, the washing machine/dryer is working on a week of laundry and we have just had a lovely home-cooked meal washed down with some French and Australian Sav Blanc.    Read more

  • TravelerIreland, Portugal and Spain
    Day 10

    Clifden

    October 12, 2018 in Ireland

    There was a violent storm predicted for this area last night, code Orange. It passed us by but we had rain and severe winds nevertheless. The Main Street of Clifden was almost deserted when I looked out at breakfast time. It wasn’t cold but it WAS windy.

    After breakfast, drying and washing clothes, we headed off to the Tourist Information Office. One person was manning it, and she admitted that it was the last day before it closed down for the season! The only attractions she recommended were Kylemore Abbey and Connemara National Park.

    Kylemore Abbey was only about 18 kms away so we headed off there with all haste. Wow! What a great place to visit. The walled garden, in a process of being renovated since 1995, was simply spectacular. Mitchell Henry, the owner in the late 19th century, was a visionary for sure. The building of the place, the materials used, and the heating system he had in place to ensure that exotic plants could be grown was extraordinary. He even had a hydro electricity plant in place at a cost of 2000 pounds.

    After going around the gardens we headed for the Abbey, which was Mitchell’s castle. It had been taken over by the Benedictine Sisters in 1920 and was turned into a school, both boarding and day, junior and senior. In its time it would have been quite progressive, but unfortunately was closed down in 2010 due to building problems.

    We then called in briefly at the Connemara National Park before heading back to Clifden. We plan to call back there tomorrow when it is a bit less windy and therefore safer.

    Dinner was pasta and wine, preceded by cheese and bread, and Scrabble was played. As usual Robyn won, at the last minute.    Read more

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