Thailand

October - November 2021
A 29-day adventure by Nick Read more
  • 20footprints
  • 1countries
  • 29days
  • 193photos
  • 14videos
  • 20.9kmiles
  • 19.5kmiles
  • Day 1

    Food Tour

    October 23, 2021 in Thailand ⋅ 🌧 81 °F

    Day 1: In Leonardo DiCaprio’s famous words from Wolf of Wall Street, “I’m not fuckin leaving!” This place is paradise in more ways than just what you see on Instagram. It’s literally Day 1 of 30 and I’m already thinking this place shits on Hawaii. The water is perfectly calm and emerald greenish blue, and I’m not even to the pretty part of the trip yet. Why don’t we go to Thailand all the fucking time?? Oh ya, it’s 20+ hours away. It’s also moist 24 hours a day. Yeah, I said it, MOIST. I’m writing this as I’m watching an apocalyptic amount of water pour from the sky when just this morning I was planning on renting a jet ski since the ocean water is literally glass. In about an hour it’ll be perfect weather again as I make my way 30 minutes south to eat at the Blue Elephant, where I am an honorary guest of the owner’s (we’ll get to that).

    So, day 1. Food tour. Phuket Old Town Food Tour booked on TripAdvisor. Starts at 10am in front of the Central Market. I rent a motorbike (125cc scooter that rips, beep beep) for $9/day from some sketchy looking dude with tats that gives me a 2 minute demo and hands me the keys. Not my first rodeo so I zip down to Old Town in about 30min (it really does rip) and get there at 9:59am… no one’s waiting for me. I hit up the tour guide’s (Pema) number and she answers like when I answer a phone call hungover. Pema panics and races over 30min late because she had too much cannabis tea the night before.

    Pema is of Baba decent, which is a mix of Malaysian and Chinese. She’s 48 years old and looks not a day older than 35. She’s about 5 feet tall and is a pure ball of joy. She immediately gives me a hug and the groping begins, she’s very friendly. If you guys are as naive as I am, you think everyone here is Thai, which is far from the case. Phuket specifically has a mix of Thai, Asian, Indian, and Middle Eastern people, among others. If you also think of “Thai food” as Pad Thai, Pad See Ew, etc then you are equally right and wrong. I would just classify this food as “Asian” food but that would probably make everyone here upset. Our food tour did not have any “traditional Thai” dishes as the Western world may know it. Every dish was completely knew to me for the most part. “Nick, stfu and tell us what you ate.” - anyone reading this.

    Stop 1: a series of appetizers at a small restaurant across from the market with tiny little chairs and tables (everyone is small, I’m an ogre and people aren’t afraid to look at me like one). Pema has to give me two chairs although I’ve got a small ass. That’s how small this place is. Here’s what we ate:
    - Giamgoey: Baba Chinese rice pudding with dried shrimp and red chili sauce
    - PaoLang: Baba grilled sticky rice in banana leaf wrapped with sweet coconut & shrimp filling
    - Ming Kham: variety of herbs in sweet betel leaf wrap
    - Nan Bread: Myanmar bread NOT Indian (whoops)
    - Vegan Samosa
    - Chickpea Paste
    - Lamb Curry (again, not Indian, more oily. I prefer Indian, but it was still fire)
    - Tea Leaf Salad
    - Myanmar Milk Tea (tastes like Thai ice tea. Pema wasn’t thrilled with that response)

    Stop 2: dessert (already? I know. Pema’s a little cray but there’s a method to her madness) at a small stand run by a family that seemed to keep coming and coming from inside their shop. Snip snip my dude.
    - Bualoy Nam Khing: small sticky rice balls in coconut milk and with sweetened poached egg and a 2nd dish with big sticky rice balls with black sesame filling in sweet ginger soup. This was FIRE. Think of boba and giant stuffed boba in sweet coconut ginger soup.

    Just had to take a break from blogging to explode the mosquito feasting on my ankle. I got him, but he got me first. The itch from these fuckers is next level. Anyways…

    Stop 3: Blue Elephant. THE restaurant in town run by a Belgian dude and home for the rich and famous that stop by. They also run a prestigious cooking school so guess what I’m doing tomorrow… I don’t know who’s more stoked, me, or them after finding out I’m a culinary wizard hailing from San Diego with several Michelin restaurants and a TV show. I’m also eating there tonight :)
    - Butterfly pea tea (the color is a vibrant blue made from the butterfly pea flower. We use them in the states as an edible flower for presentation) and Bael Fruit Tea (apparently it’s an anti-boner fruit. No comment): both fire and refreshing. We didn’t eat here because “it’s royal thai cuisine” and Pema likes to support the less wealthy local family businesses.

    Stop 4: another local family owned restaurant that’s been around for decades. The owner is grumpy af because he thinks everyone’s out to steal his secret recipes. He’s not wrong.
    - Dried egg noodle with homemade wonton, grilled pork, fish sausage, fish “meatball” and all the sauces and fixings. This is the stuff I’m more familiar with. Yum.
    - Flattened noodles with red been curd and vinegar sauce, fried prawn, and squid. Here’s where shit gets weird. It also had congealed pig’s blood. Now I’m a trooper but this was tough. The dish was tasty don’t get me wrong but it’s a total mind fuck.

    Stop 5: the place had multiple food stands run by different families and each their own speciality.
    - fresh hokkian spring roll (made by a dude that was 6’4” 250lbs and looked like he ate his tiny family. Pema informed me he was training for a body building competition and took “some help.” I asked where he got some to make sure we stay clear of it obviously). These are not your traditional spring rolls we know back home, they have a crepe type of paper vs. rice paper and the fillings are all unique (dried shrimp and fried pork skin)
    - pork satay with massaman curry sauce: FIRE FIRE FIRE. I made my mans right down the recipe and promised I wouldn’t sell it. I lied.

    Stop 6: another dessert from a street stand belonging to Pema’s college friend and her brother. I thought they were husband and wife, whoops again. She also was not very happy thinking we were out to steal her secret recipe. “There’s a giant white man, stfu don’t say a word about what’s in it.” - everyone.
    - Baba banana jelly icing: think of shaved ice with fruit jell-o and finger bananas (yes tiny little cute nanners the size of my fingers…I have big hands I swear)

    Stop 7: small Arabic restaurant that’s also pretty popular and famous. Famous for their beef soup.
    - Muslim Beef soup: I thought this was Pho, but it’s better, way better. I asked how they made it and I’m sure you can guess what the response was.
    - Pandan crispi roti: dessert nachos with condensed milk frosting
    - “iced coffee” from a man that loves flexing on people with his “bartending” skills when he mixes the coffee. Don’t bring your gf here, she won’t be yours when he’s done.

    Pema was great. She LOVES to talk but in the best way, educating you every step of the way not only about food but about literally everything we walked by. She knows everyone and everyone (mostly everyone) was happy to see us. I realized at the end of the tour that we must have said hi to about an additional 20 people we didn’t get food from and then realized later that Pema was just using me as arm candy to show off to her friends. Her words not mine.
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  • Day 3

    Cooking Class at Blue Elephant

    October 25, 2021 in Thailand ⋅ 🌧 79 °F

    Since the last post was just pics, let’s have some fun with this one.

    So I whipped down to the same spot as dinner last night since they do cooking classes too and it was a blast. 30 min southeast on my Ducati (125cc Honda Click). Thai people are just always happy man. They’re happy, you’re happy, everyone’s happy (opposite of miserable ass Americans). Chef Molly was dope serving up all types of knowledge. Of course I did the whole “I went to culinary school” thing because I want all the attention and it worked until I burnt my garlic and shallots but we’ll get to my shameful performance later. The Blue Elephant was a historical monument/mansion that was going to be abandoned back in the day when a Belgian man decided to bid on it and restore it. His son owns and runs it now (pictured). If I was having “that type of trip” then his son is “that type of guy” where we would get fucking lost in Thailand similar to the movie Hangover Part II. Not going to lie, his offer to get lost was pretty tempting but I am a new man (no I’m not, it’s day 4).

    During peak tourist season (before Covid), classes are packed, around 20 students. Today, it was just myself and a cute little French couple (I call everyone little that’s a foot shorter than me). They spoke a tiny bit of English but very conversational. They asked “What’s your favorite French food?” For fear of sounding like a dumb American and saying French Onion Soup, which is legit my favorite French food, I said Foie Gras, to which they looked at me like I was a dumb American. I actually hate Foie Gras but I do this thing where if I’m having a brain fart I panic and say whatever comes to mind without thinking. I almost said Ménage a trois by accident, just so you understand my “panic mode.” Again, dumb American.

    Hold up, some couple is yelling at each other outside my balcony, gotta snoop. Ok I’m back, it’s an Asian language I clearly don’t understand but after watching the finale of “You” last night…I’m just going to mind my fucking business.

    Back to cooking class. Everything is made from scratch and the old school mortar and pestle is a must for making pastes that go into curry and dressings for salads.
    - Red curry with beef and pumpkin: crushed it, I felt like Steph Curry with the sauce boy (pun on Drake lyric). If you can’t understand my puns and humor just stop reading now, thanks for your time.
    - Tom Yum Soup: I order this sweet and sour delight almost every time back home but this was better. Spicy Thai Sour Patch Kids soup. What’s not to like.
    - Pad Thai: here is where I fucked up. From my training, I should know that aluminum pans get very hot very fast but I wasn’t paying attention because there was a cute dog watching my cook and reminded me of Winston. The pan got scorching hot and the garlic & shallots didn’t stand a chance. At that moment I wondered how much money it would take to get out of Thai prison but thank the Elephant God they were merciful. I came back strong and delivered a dish tourists would be proud of.
    - Not pictured, Papaya Salad: this is the salad that made me legit cry and wash my face last time I ate it my first day here. Thai chilis are hot, very fucking hot. About 5x hotter than a jalapeño in my opinion but wrong when we’re spitting facts. Thai chilis are about 50-100k on the Scoville Heat scale, compared to 2.5-8k for jalapeños…therefore about 15x hotter. Why is this relevant? Because of our dear, sweet little French couple who do not know what spicy means. I warned them to use 1/4 of what we were told to use and they did not listen to the dumb American. They were rushed to the sink to wash their face and were given lots of water (this doesn’t help at all FYI, you need dairy, but what do I know).

    After completion of the course it was time to eat everything we made and were given a certificate of completion. This brought back some very sad memories as I was never allowed to finish my culinary program and receive a graduate certificate due to the beloved pandemic. Friendly reminder to not eat Bats or if you are a conspiracy theorist, to not piss off rival governments for world domination. If you’re old enough and watched Pinky and the Brain when you were a kid, you should be smiling right now. Ellie, please ignore.

    Smile on my face, belly full, I’m ready to hop back on my BMW motobike and head home when I notice a few of the Thai servers and cooks huddled up giggling and staring at me. I ask Molly what’s going on and she says, “You look like Adam….from Maroon 5.” If you know me and my ego, this was “Very Nice!” (In Borat voice). I inform her I’m a few tattoos short, a few inches taller, several million dollars poorer, not lyrically or musically gifted, but I’m not not Adam Levine. So, I laugh and say “maybe I am.” She’s confused, then smiles, then confused again. I stop fucking with her and tell her I’m not Adam Levine but thank you for the compliment. She wants a picture anyway, as do the other women working at the Blue Elephant. This reminded me of the boys trip to Korea and Japan where no one was really sure if we were celebrities or not, so they asked for pictures just to be safe.

    Remember when I told you the shady dude rented me a motorbike (I would say scooter but this makes it sound more badass plus it’s what they call it here)? Well I was too excited to check the tires and the rear tire blew up on my speedy ride home. Thank god it wasn’t the front one or Winston would grow up without a father. Joie doesn’t count, he’s the funcle.

    Tomorrow is my Muay Thai personal training sesh, gotta get some sleep. The couple next door seems to have fixed their issues, or perhaps took a page from “You’s” book. Won’t ruin it if you haven’t seen it, but someone dies.
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  • Day 4

    Muay Thai, Jet Ski, Massage, Chill

    October 26, 2021 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 82 °F

    Day 4 was pretty chill, except for Muay Thai.

    Revolution Gym is owned by an Aussie man named Tim, super nice dude who used to live in PB 30 years ago, small world. “I used to fuck everything down there.” No comment Tim, no comment. By the way I got my Harley fixed and exchanged for a new one because I didn’t trust the old one anymore. So I zipped over to the gym in about 11 minutes, doing an average of a breath taking 37mph. Yes I refuse to use the metric system like the rest of the world because…I’m a dumb American remember?

    I honestly forget my trainer’s name so I’m going to call him Little Man (remember my rule of calling someone “little”) Little man could whoop my ass with one arm and one leg, he asserted dominance quickly and reminded me of that dominance throughout training. There is no time or patience for getting it wrong, mistakes result in getting a punch to the body or kick to the leg, not kidding. I almost called my mom to come pick me up a few times. His training process worked because by the time I was done I was Jean Claude van Damme meets Chuck Norris, but gasping for air like Jared before Subway (too soon? Or not cool because of the kids thing?) This is for friends remember? Stop being sensitive.

    But honestly y’all have to try Muay Thai, the workout is intense. I’m sore in literally every area of my body today and I’m going back for more tomorrow. I might try to fight Little Man for real as payback or I might just take the beating and hold back the tears until I get back to my room, TBD.

    After training, I got a 2 hour “Blissful Day” massage for $55. They climb on the table, put knees and elbows into you, and I can’t tell if I’m sore from Muay Thai or Thai May, my masseuse. Her name is literally May, I just did a play on words, let me live. I’m getting another tomorrow, and the day after. Relax, no rubbies here, it’s a 5 star resort.

    Golden Seafood restaurant is next door on the beach and the best cooked seafood I’ve ever had. A whole grilled sea bass, 2 grilled jumbo tiger prawns, spicy salad, and of course, a coconut. The server called me dude and bro the whole time which I took offense to but remembered I have blonde highlights in my hair so totally warranted. BEST FOOD EVER because it’s my favorite kind of food. Everyone asks me, “OMG you’re a chef, what’s your favorite food?” I don’t know Brittany, probably Foie Gras (If you read the previous post, you’re giggling. If not, remember we don’t have to be friends). My favorite food of all time is fresh seafood on the beach. There was also a big cock staring at me eating, super intimidating, right ladies? I took a pic.

    Jet skiing was the only thing so far that was expensive. $50 for 30min, talked him down from $60, then felt bad afterwards and tipped him $10. I’m a good person I swear. The water is glass, not like the shitty jet ski experience on the SD Bay in the afternoon where I felt like I was either going to break my teeth on the steering bars or fly off taking a turn too sharply. I was just about to jump in the beautiful water when I spotted a big ass jellyfish. I’m seen Finding Nemo, I love that movie. I fucking hate jellyfish. I also got stung in the Amalfi Coast in the water at the Fiordo di Furore. Thought about asking big belly super tan gold chains tiny speedo Figaro looking dude to pee on it, then realized I’d rather suffer. His wife peed on it instead. Everything about this story is true….except the last part.

    Elephants tomorrow.
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  • Day 4

    Jaras Restaurant Experience - Dinner

    October 26, 2021 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

    I found Jaras Restaurant by doing a “fine dining” Google search. It only had 11 reviews, 5 stars. Then I remembered the last 2 years have been a ghost town. It’s located in the InterContinental Hotel at Kamala Beach, about 15 minutes south. So I hop on my single rider chariot built for speed not for comfort just before sunset. I’m greeted by a host when I arrive, they valet my hog, and I’m taken to my seat away from the main dining area like a celebrity. The executive chef shows me the kitchen and his pickling/fermentation room where I fucking geek out. What’s the temp in here? Humidity? How long? Where’s the weird shit? Then they intro me to the chef that will be personally responsible for plating and ensuring everything is perfect. Do they think I’m Adam from Maroon 5?

    The entire dinner was nonstop the most amazing service I have ever had. The food was unreal, deconstructed Thai food as you would know it, but arranged in a different way with beautiful plating. All ingredients from local farmers. “Farm to table” in the US is a marketing scam, here it’s the real thing. The fermented pork neck (if bacon and loin had a baby) was UNREAL. Every little detail was amazing. Only feedback: the crab cake donut was dry so instead of using pork fat to keep the inside moist, either use more pork fat or do the dumb American thing and add mayo and less breadcrumbs. The massaman curry I will 1000% be recreating back home but I don’t think they’ll let me fly farmed goat from Bangtao back to the states. The host would keep coming back, “done already?!” Yes, my sweet thai angel I have a problem with eating too fast, these tiny plates don’t stand a chance. Next.

    When dinner is over, they bring me a signed menu by the chef, a gift bag with some of the local ingredients used, and the Director of Food for the hotel comes over to say hello. At this point, everyone at the restaurant is staring at me and I even saw a woman in the corner sneak a pic. Being > 6ft is a vibe, I get it now ladies. Time to hop on my Nimbus 2000 and back to the crib. I have to stay one more night in Phuket on my last day in Thailand so the InterContinental might be the spot and I might have to have Jaras one more time.
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  • Day 5

    Green Elephant Sanctuary/Elephant Spa

    October 27, 2021 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 86 °F

    Elephants!! First, my impressions of elephants prior to this experience: they are big, really big. They are scary because they are big. They do not belong under human care. They do not like humans. Horses are kinda big and kinda scary, therefore elephants are big and scary.

    After this experience, Elephants are not so scary, still big. Elephants do not belong anywhere but in LEGIT sanctuaries, wildlife parks, and in the wild. There are only 2500 wild elephants left in Thailand and they are in a protected park (similar to wildlife parks in Africa). The Green Elephant Sanctuary is a legit sanctuary among the various “riding parks” here in Phuket and everywhere in Thailand. I have zero interest in riding an elephant, a giraffe on the other hand…. Giddy up. There are zero chains or confinements, except at night when they sleep where they have massive pens that looked like something out of Jurassic Park. Apparently they are legit big dumbos that are constantly searching for food and clumsy af, so need to keep them in the pens at night to avoid them destroying the village.

    12 elephants, 2 herds (each herd was rescued separately). The oldest lady was over 60 years old and lost her teeth so she gets lots of bananas. The youngest elephant is a male and is almost 5 yrs old. Each elephant has a handler which is with them almost 24/7 and that trade/skill has been in their families for generations. They also live in little huts in the sanctuary village full time. The elephants follow them everywhere and listen to commands, it’s pretty cool to see. I fed each one sugar cane (sugar cane to them is like chocolate chip cookies to us. I fucking love chocolate chip cookies, oatmeal raisin belongs in the trash) and bananas, and they bop their head and flop their ears with joy. These elephants live the best life, and love tourists since that means plenty of treats, mud baths, and play time.

    I’m over 6’ tall (I’ve made enough height jokes in previous posts, Joie is getting upset) so some of these lady elephants are easily 8-9ft tall, can reach up to 12ft and 6-12k pounds. They eat 600lbs of food per day so the lack of tourism has really hurt this place and their ability to keep the elephants fed while also rescuing new ones. Rescuing = buying them from “farmers” who use them as slave labor, or parks where tourists ride them improperly. The most recent rescue I wasn’t allowed to get close to since she only trusts her handler. She was rescued from a logging farmer/company who used and abused her for labor. An elephant costs about $60,000. A wealthy Swiss man who loves elephants owns the sanctuary and wanted to open a 2nd, but couldn’t due to the pandemic.

    Spa time. Each elephant can’t wait to get in the mud pit since that means scrub and massage time, same bro, same. You get dirty, very dirty. They should provide goggles because that shit gets everywhere. I learned that elephants are silly big doggos that have an awesome personality when they are treated well. They are very domesticated so if you ever see a wild elephant, running and screaming is still the move. After the mud spa, they move over to the fresh water pond where these cheeky little fuckers spray you with water from their trunk and roll around like children. I kept my distance from the rollers because it’s a fucking elephant, that’s why. Except little Po Po (5 year old Peter). He sits back on his hind legs and wants all the pets/splashes. The handlers call him “naughty boy” since occasionally he runs around and splashes everyone. Who rescued who today 🥺 (thank you Nicole Ngo)? We bonded. Look at his little face of joy in the first pic, I can’t.

    Next up is the jumbo dumbo (my phrase, not theirs) shower, basically a giant rain shower. Not a terrible idea if you have a mansion back home for all the weird stuff. The elephants again love it since they get scrubbed and cleaned while being fed treats. If Winston got to play in a mud pit with smiling happy strangers, then play some more in a pond, then get scrubbed all while being fed treats… you get it. They truly love these animals and the animals love them back, it’s heart warming. After the shower, I got to take a legit shower then was fed yummy Thai food. They pour their heart into the presentation, the way they cut the fruit into pretty shapes, and it’s hilarious how they think “tourists” only want homemade Thai chicken nuggets. I told them to make whatever they would eat and they were stoked.

    12/10 experience. The service was 14/10. 3 photographers, caretakers, full lunch staff, bathroom staff, 2 curators, and a driver. Appreciate the shit out of you guys.
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  • Day 8

    Chiang Mai Temples Tour - Monks

    October 30, 2021 in Thailand ⋅ 🌧 72 °F

    So I am pretty much the only 25-35 year old tourist in Chiang Mai currently, seriously. I keep booking tours or guides and they keep cancelling or TripAdvisor is telling me there’s a 2 person minimum. I’m a problem solver so I call a highly rated tour and say “hey do you want to make some money?” Next thing I know I have a private tour off the books (apparently not so kosher here) for $60 to show me all the temples (the good ones, there are hundreds) and walk me through Buddhism. Coincidentally, my guide used to be a monk. Pohn is the man, and funny story, Pohn is actually spelled like Porn, but was getting giggles so often by tourists that he went to the government office to get his name spelling changed to Pohn. He had no idea why white tourists were laughing at him for years. Poor guy.

    Porn, sorry, POHN was very detailed at every stop because I told him I was fascinated by monks and wanted to understand their ways (I’m currently reading “Think like a Monk”). Thai people have 5 main rules to live by, similar to our 10 commandments. Monks have over 200. Their purpose: create a minimalist society toward a path to enlightenment, or become walking angels if you will (it’s funny because they can’t drive or ride bikes). No temptations of any kind, no mirrors so they can check themselves out, and a daily routine that never changes. But why?? Don’t you want to make the sex? Eat pizza?? I know…of all the great things about life, I chose those. Clearly you’ve been eating shitty pizza. Their answer to “why” is very simple: everyone is fucking unhappy, and what’s the point of living if you know you will be unhappy. Every human needs to practice gratitude, peace, and kindness.

    There are city monks and forest monks. City monks wear a yellow/orange robe and interact with the community whereas forest monks wear a reddish robe and are all about meditation and the land. The temples are stunning. What I liked about them is that the detail is insane and there is meaning behind every color, jewel, carving, and statue. It’s not “just pretty” because people will think so, it’s all purposeful. We visited 5 temples in the old city, new city, and ancient city. The Silver Temple (new temple, almost finished) was probably the most interesting since I met the ladies that were actually carving the detail from the silver plating that was going to be put on the temple. They have been silver handlers for generations with nothing but a small hammer and a pick, and the detail is so intricate (see pic). Naturally, I asked if they had stuff to sell the white man. “Come with me to my secret room,” she said. It wasn’t a real secret room, I’m just playing up the drama. I bought a piece of artwork and would have purchased 10 more if I could fit them in my bags.

    Let’s talk about Buddha for a sec. I have to admit I knew nothing about Buddhism or Buddha. For those that don’t know, I am not a fan of being “religious.” We won’t go there. What I do like about Buddhism is that Buddha was a normal mortal man (just like Jesus Christ. Oh, whoops). His name wasn’t even Buddha before he became Buddha. He was born into a royal family which shielded him from anything bad in the world, he was constantly supervised and censored. When he ran off one day and was introduced to the pain and suffering of average people, he felt cheated. He was so upset that he decided to devote the rest of his life to a path of enlightenment and became the first monk (and was given the name Buddha). Also, this is just how Pohn tells it and this is purely from my memory (no I didn’t take notes you nerd) so if any of this is off then go kill someone else’s vibe. And just like what man has done since the beginning of time, any areas of unclarity were filled in by made up stories built on ego, power, and fear. Tada! Buddhism.

    Another funny story: Big Buddha. Big Buddha was a very handsome monk (striking resemblance to Buddha) who achieved enlightenment. He was followed by villagers constantly giving him food and donations for his looks. He was upset because he wanted them to love him for what’s on the inside, so he used his magic powers to get fat, testing the true love of the villagers. Let me tell that again but in simple speak: he felt like a petty IG model getting collab and promo requests so he ate all the food given to him by his followers until he got fat to see who his real friends were. Tada! Big Buddha.

    We stopped for lunch at Khao Soi Punawan (no English menus and only locals eat here), famous for the famous Northern Thai dish, Khao Soi. It’s delicious. Think coconut curry meats ramen, add chicken, pickled greens, shallots, egg noodles, crispy egg noodles, and a hint of lime. I had two bowls. They’re $2 a bowl. If I didn’t have Muay Thai training at 4pm, I would have had a third. I also may or may not have had dessert. Ok I had dessert. A coconut milk slushee with handmade gummy worms at the bottom. 7-eleven slushees go fuck yourself (it’s funny because they LOVE 7-eleven here), sour gummy worms can stay but these gummies were better.

    This is important: I was Pohn’s first tourist interaction in over 2 years. He said him and his wife jumped for joy when I called. They have a child. He also used to have an elephant that passed away. Crying yet? I asked how they made ends meet, and he said they started to grow their own farm and bought a couple chickens and were able to survive. If I learned anything today from the monks or Pohn, it’s gratitude. If you want to get deeper, pull up for a cry sesh when I’m back home.
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  • Day 8

    Zira Spa - Heaven on Earth

    October 30, 2021 in Thailand ⋅ 🌧 77 °F

    After the Temples Tour I had another 1 on 1 Muay Thai training sesh and again had the entire gym to myself. This place was cool because we trained in the ring and my trainer played hip hop the entire time. Another guy about 5’7” 140lbs that could deliver a spinning back kick of doom. A little more intense this time with spinning elbows and back punches, kick blocks, and counter elbows. You might be thinking, “Wow I hope no one pisses off Nick.” Relax guys, I’m a Buddhist now, this is purely for fitness.

    There’s obviously a reason I’ve been training, the main event. That evening the main event was at Zira Spa, where I took on a woman about 4’10”, 90lbs. You can forget my previous scriptures about a “Thai Massage,” now I know the ladies at the SAii Laguna Phuket were fakes (not really, this place was just sooo much better). No, I did not partake in Thai Tickle Twisty 3000, this was a classy place. They LOVE telling you about their “specials” or “promotions” as if anyone ever pays full price for anything there, witch please (this occurred on 10/30, yes I can still make Halloween jokes). I booked the traditional Thai Massage for 60 minutes knowing I would come back tomorrow and the next day for the 2 hour specials. Why not trick or treat yourself, you know? Ok I’ll stop.

    This place has a koi pong with fish as big as Winston and 4 floors of massage rooms. A place where people go to release, sorry relax*, stupid autocorrect. She shows me my room and there’s a jacuzzi tub in it, ok I’m including that tomorrow I told myself. She says put these on and I’ll wait outside. What the fuck? I’m not putting on pajamas, I’m getting oiled down right? Then I remind myself I’m a Buddhist now so I take some deep breaths and put on my ceremonial satin attire (cotton pjs). What happened next was life changing. A traditional Thai Massage is an acrobatic ceremony of pure bliss. This little woman climbed on my back like a spider monkey and snap, crackle, and popped every part of my body. She pulled my limbs using my body as a brace with her tiny little feet as leverage. She bent me like a pretzel and unrolled every muscle in my body like unrolling a delicious Cinnabon.

    I grimaced in pain and she asked “are you ok?” I thought to myself, how are you so fucking strong? Then something truly beautiful happened. She tried to bend my arms back as I’m in a cobra yoga pose and she couldn’t do it because I was too big of a human and I heard her grunt literally giving it her all but my body was not moving in that direction. She started laughing, then I started laughing and we laughed for a minute in perfect harmony. The main event ended in a tie that evening.

    You keep your clothes on so her knees, elbows, and forearms have grip when she’s digging into your muscles to loosen up the knots. I get it now. This is not a relaxing massage, this is acrobatic yoga meets blissful torture. Whatever you want to call it or however you want to describe it, I fucking loved it. I had a smile on my face from ear to ear when she was done, thinking to myself, “how in the fuck did she do that?” The massage was 499 baht (almost $17).
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  • Day 9

    Huay Tueng Tao Lake - Zira Spa Round 2

    October 31, 2021 in Thailand ⋅ 🌧 77 °F

    Today was a leisure day, no plans, no tours. I googled what locals do on the weekend and a popular thing to do is to go chill at the local lake about 30min out. So I hop on my bro-ped and check it out. This is actually a really strange place. Upon entry, there is an area with giant animals made of straw you can take pics with. Then there are several restaurants bordering the lake except the “seating” is a bamboo hut in the water. I google the best one and I have to admit, this was the most peaceful place in Chiang Mai so far. I ordered whole fresh water fish, Chinese kale (it’s like a sautéed spinach in a soy sauce of sorts), and some fried rice. Simple, super cheap (less than $10), and good. Had a little meditation sesh and took a nap. I’m telling you, this beats a Saturday rip sesh in PB where Sunday feels like the apocalypse. Lazy weekend picnics are now going to be a thing.

    So, Zira Spa round 2..Their spa menu is like a restaurant menu and if you guys have ever fallen victim to panic ordering, you know the anxiety I felt when I wanted everything on the menu and couldn’t decide. First, the 60 minute body scrub. Nice. Let me remind you I didn’t put on their man thong thing. 1. Because I didn’t want to and 2. Because it doesn’t fit. No not like that, I mean it’s just not meant for larger humans. I’m done showering, she hands me the man thong thing and says “you need to put it on.” Shit, she’s pissed. I’m a Buddhist now so deep breath and squeeze into the thing. How do I describe this to you… um… it’s a black fishnet speedo that covers nothing really. Let’s move on.

    So it’s oil massage time and I think she’s going to take it easy since it’s slippery right? Wrong. My little master masseuse hit me with the elbow and forearm technique again. Does she fuck up everyone like this, or is she just doing this to me? Is this about the undies? Anyway, another great performance. Little 15 minute meditation in the tub and it’s a wrap.

    Dinner was different (breakfast was also different, I went to Souls Kitchen, a 100% vegan spot for the best chocolate banana pancakes ever made). I went to Rad Rabbit, which is 100% vegan. Apparently vegan and vegetarian food here is big, I guess people got tired of traditional Thai food and I don’t blame them. After a while the tummy needs a break. Rad Rabbit is a vegan pizzeria so I had to try their Hawaiian (pineapple belongs on pizza, if you want to fight about it just remember I do Muay Thai), and spaghetti and “meatballs.” It’s definitely not pizza, but still fire. Well done. I’m serious about my spaghetti and meatballs and this was actually very well done. I was shook and gave compliments to the chef in the back. Maybe when I get back to San Diego I’ll go to a… haha no I won’t, just kidding.
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  • Day 10

    Trekking and Mountain Bike Tour

    November 1, 2021 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Finally, some jungle stuff. About an hour up north is one of the highest points in Chiang Mai, Mon Long Peak which is almost 5000 ft high. There are several hiking trails but this one is unique since you can maintain bike down the other side once you’ve reached the peak. I signed up for this on TripAdvisor and similar to Pohn (if you remember the Temples Tour), they have not seen a tourist in 2 years. I read the reviews and this was crowned a “beginner to intermediate” workout. Cool, let’s do something adventurous I’ve never mountain biked before. I did a 4 day, 25 mile hike from Cusco to Machu Picchu climbing from 8000 ft to over 12000 ft in elevation, I’ll be chill. Welp, I still have never mountain biked.

    This was not a chill hike. This was not a hike. It was a mountain climb. We climbed 4000 ft in the jungle after it had stormed the night before (the wet jungle is very different). 2.5 hours, 4000 ft elevation change and 3 miles uphill at 45 degrees later, doing a downhill slippery mountain bike ride would have been a long trip to the hospital for yours truly. The trail was so steep at times, there was a guide behind me to spot me in case I fell backward. At times, there was a tiny little river that formed down the trail from so much rain the night before. Dirt became mud that felt like clay when you climbed uphill. Everything was slippery. So what happened with these beginner/intermediate reviews?? They admitted that they looked at me when they picked me up and thought, this guy is in shape, let’s take him on a different trail. Ahhh now it all makes sense. I don’t like being stereotyped. I’m secretly a fat kid. Not chill.

    I’m actually not being dramatic, it was the hardest trek I’ve ever done and I’m stoked we did it. Got a chance to tap into that part of your mind when you tell yourself you can’t do something then convince yourself you can and then do. It was fun and I’d do it again trying to beat the 2.5 hour time, but not after a storm. The guide said he pushed his mountain bike up the same trial last week in under 2 hours. Neat, I can throw a spinning back punch. “You should have brought bananas and snacks for energy.” He said. I should have prayed to Buddha riding the elephant god for a dry jungle but here we are. And I did bring snacks. I was eating them while I was gasping for air during my rest break when you were practicing back flips from trees. I liked this dude don’t get me wrong but he was like the guy in PE that tried too hard, you know? He even asked me if I wanted to run up parts of the trail that were dry. I said “You go! I’ll watch.” Like a parent watching their kid to a shitty dive into the pool because the kid screams watch me dad 100 times. “Uh huh, I’m watching,” as I reach for snacks and pour water over my face.
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  • Day 11

    Ksushi for Dinner > Sushi in Tokyo

    November 2, 2021 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    If you read the title of this post, you think I’m exaggerating or crazy. Sushi in Tokyo was special, the fish were carved up that morning, but this overall experience in Chiang Mai was better. There have been a few nights where I just stumbled out of the Airbnb and Google a restaurant nearby because I’m tired. That was tonight. That morning I had hopped on my scoot it and boot it (iykyk) and headed to the Sticky Waterfall. Short story: you feel like Spider-Man walking up the waterfall because the calcium rich water from the mountain spring keeps algae away. All you have to do is put your crocs in 4 wheel drive/sport mode.

    I was actually stopped by the police on the way out there and my two wheel gas guzzler doesn’t “speed” so I thought to myself, here we go. “International driver’s license?” He said. I told him I left my fake magic carpet license at home. He took me to the captain dude, who said “500 baht.” I was in a funny mood so I said, “Oh thank you! I thought it was going to be 600.” They all looked at each other and did not appreciate my joke. The old me would have tipped him 100 for his service, but I’m a Buddhist now. Sorry to the next white person they stop and make it 700.

    Ksushi: a small, intimate, and very nice restaurant located in a very dark and sketchy alley. I was dressed in a hat, tank, shorts, and floppies, my Thai special. I actually look like a very tan, beach Jew by now, it’s weird. Needless to say, the restaurant staff is not impressed to the point where they won’t let me sit inside (there are nicely dressed Thai businessmen inside). I giggle and tell them outside is fine. He hands me a menu and I want everything, like always, but I really want the Omakase. They say they don’t have any more seats at the chef’s counter (they have 1 left). Again, because I look like a bum. How do I get inside I wonder… ah, let’s use the chef card. “I’m a chef from California,” I say, and 10 minutes later after a discussion among their team, I’m inside. An hour later, I’m being served the chef’s secret moonshine and being asked to stay after closing to drink the night away. Funny how everything works out.

    Kong is the chef and trained at Blue Ribbon in New York. He has some serious sushi skills. The precision on his cuts, all of the details of the sauces, the weirdest fish I’ve ever had somehow tasted familiar, and all 16 courses were fucking perfect. The only course I’m meh about is Uni because I have a mainly meh/hate relationship with Uni. You serve me Uni and avocado together and you’ll see some scary. I wanted to try the spicy blue crab and he made me a custom hand roll free of charge. I wanted to try some rare whisky, he forced me to try all 3 of them then made the server run to his car to get his “award winning” Thai Brandy I had to try. I told him it wasn’t that kind of trip and I had to call it early because I had to be up at 4am to which he responded, “Good it’s only 9pm.” Turns out I was the first tourist he’s spoken to in over 2 years. I was serious when I mentioned I’m the only white guy in Thailand right now. I stayed until 10 to be polite, watched the server’s face turned pale when I tipped 1000 baht, and was on my way back to the airbnb with a smile on my face.

    The video in this post: the fish is Toro (fatty blue fin tuna) which is like $40 for a few small pieces in San Diego. It’s the wagyu of the sushi world. You don’t touch it, just eat it. I don’t even put soy sauce or wasabi on it. Kong lit skewers with a blowtorch and I said, “You better not dude,” leave it alone. He proceeded and I have to say my dumbass that knows nothing about sushi was wrong, it was fatty and smokey delicious. If you are ever in Chiang Mai go to Ksushi (make a reservation, Chiang Mai is open to tourism now) and say hi to Kong for me, awesome guy.
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