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Camino de Santiago 2023/2025
  • Kate Pritchett

Camino de Santiago 2023/2025

Une aventure de 815 jours par Kate En savoir plus
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  • Kate PritchettCamino de Santiago 2023/2025Voyageur
    1

    Day 31: Molinaseca to Cacabelos, part 1

    17 juin 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Mileage: 15.75 miles
    Altitude gain: 659 feet
    Altitude loss: 971 feet
    Weather: cool and cloudy in the morning; clouds and mountain fog burned off by mid morning. Hot afternoon!
    Total mileage: 376.25

    I’m about 3/4 of the way through this Camino! Nine more days after today - hard to believe. Today was a beautiful day! Walking almost 16 miles while tired isn’t exactly a rest day, but this was a peaceful (and blessedly mostly flat!) interlude between mountain stages. It was also a reminder that the sun comes up again after a hard day and we get to start fresh the next day.

    I started a little late after my late bedtime and met up with Priscilla and Susie from Idaho. I walked with Priscilla for a while but then of course they pulled ahead of me. I walked into the city of Ponferrada before too long and enjoyed a bougie but delicious breakfast at a cafe. (Spaniards love their toast, and I can tell you now that huevos benedictinos are good on toast!) I also needed to find an ATM, a pharmacy (although those are everywhere), and a sporting goods store, so I left the Camino while in the city.

    I had left my trekking poles in Molinaseca, so I found a sporting goods store. Mission accomplished AND I found a new long-sleeved shirt, which was very exciting. The one I’ve worn every day had developed a number of holes but I hadn’t been able to find a replacement until today. I feel like a new woman, although perhaps a true pilgrim would proudly wear their holey rags into Santiago!

    After Ponferrada I walked through small villages and past innumerable gardens and laden fruit trees. This gave way to foothills and, it seems, wine country. I’ve been reminded of California wine country/Central Valley more than once on this trip, and today was certainly one of those times.

    1. Looking back over the trail from Molinaseca.
    2. and 3. Ponferrada has a Templar castle! I didn’t have time for a tour, unfortunately. Another city to revisit later.
    4. They’re proud of the Templar history here!
    5. Looking back at the castle from over the Río Sil
    6. Much like Burgos, I walked out of the city center in a lovely park alongside the river.
    7. Looking back over Ponferrada
    8. Mural in Compostilla, just outside Ponferrada
    9. The tiny Ermita del Divino Cristo in Fuentes Nuevas
    10. I saw so much food ripening today! Cherries, apples, pears, figs, grapes, peaches, some of it in empty lots.    En savoir plus

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  • Kate PritchettCamino de Santiago 2023/2025Voyageur

    Day 31: Molinaseca to Cacabelos, part 2

    17 juin 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

    This might be my favorite part of Spain so far.

    1.-4. Mountains surrounded me all day, and then the last part of the day gave me views of vineyards, too.
    5. I hadn’t seen hydrangeas blooming until today. Purple!!
    6. Cacabelos street
    7. and 8. The Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Plaza, which…
    9. … happens to be across the street from my hotel. This is the view from my balcony.    En savoir plus

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  • Kate PritchettCamino de Santiago 2023/2025Voyageur
    1
    11

    Day 32: Cacabelos to Vega de Valcarce

    18 juin 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Mileage: 16.75 miles
    Altitude gain: 1,309 feet
    Altitude loss: 889 feet
    Weather: lovely but quite warm in the afternoon
    Total mileage: 383 miles

    Sundays are always a little quieter, and today was no exception. Lots of up and down in the first six miles, and then a gradual but steady ascent the rest of the day as I head into the mountains. Those early hills plus (as of today) three 16-mile days mean that my legs are tired! Looking forward to a good sleep tonight.

    The early part of the day took me through miles of vineyards, on dirt roads. The rest of the day was alongside a river - Río Valcarce- and a highway on asphalt. The river is also next to my hotel, so it will sing me to sleep.

    I had lunch and dinner with two women from Finland today. Their English is impeccable, of course, so we had nice chats. They’re walking ahead of me tomorrow so I won’t see them after tomorrow, which is often the way of the Camino. I was glad to have their company today.

    Tomorrow will be short(er) but intense - 8 miles up a mountain! Wish me luck.

    1. and 2. I took an embarrassing number of pics of the vineyards this morning, so be glad I managed to control myself here!
    3. One of the towers of the Castillo-Palacio de los Marqueses de Villafranca
    4. This is a hostal, apparently! San Nicolas el Real in Villafranca del Bierzo
    5. Colegiata de Santa Maria de Cluni; not the only church in town! I had a really nice conversation with an older woman headed to mass at one of the others after this. She promised to pray for me.
    6. Looking back over Villafranca
    7. The Río Valcarce kept me company today.
    8. A nice divergence from the highway took me up this road.
    9. Paella for lunch! I was very grateful for an open restaurant on a Sunday and happy to eat the carbs. Delicious!
    10. Yes, another one of these. I can’t stop! Maybe Neal can photoshop out the power lines. There were a lot of those today, ruining my shots! This is in La Portela de Valcarce.    En savoir plus

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  • Kate PritchettCamino de Santiago 2023/2025Voyageur
    121

    Day 33: Vega de Valcarce to O Cebreiro

    19 juin 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Mileage: 8 miles, but…
    Altitude gain: 2,290 feet
    Altitude loss: 135 feet
    Weather: cool and cloudy: light rain for the last mile or so, and heavy rain in the evening
    Total mileage: 391 miles

    The first two miles of the day continued the gradual ascent along the river, with lovely misty views of the mountains. I stopped in the village of Las Herrerías for a pit stop and more coffee, when I came upon my Spanish friend Monica. She, of course, has collected a group of international friends, some of whom I met at coffee. She’s also developed blisters, so I think she was glad to walk slower with me. The next six miles were more or less straight up! We encountered a school group of 12-year olds walking (can you imagine being *that* teacher??) and made some other new friends. The views as we rose were spectacular, even with the rain clouds developing all around us.

    We arrived at the top of the mountain midafternoon and had a celebratory beer. I took a nap and had a little soak in my unexpected bathtub! Dinner was a better-than-usual pilgrims’ dinner.

    Only seven more days to go! I’m both sad that it’s almost over and also totally exhausted, so the thought of not punishing my feet and legs quite so much any more is appealing!

    1., 2., 3. Misty morning. Look for the castle on the mountain in 1.
    4. In Las Herrerías
    5. and 6. Very steep but pretty!
    7. Stopping to take in the views was quite rewarding and allowed me to rest.
    8. Traffic was heavy! There were also horses returning to Las Herrerías since some people ride to the top instead of walking.
    9. The view from the top
    10. I don’t know what these structures are called but there have been a number of them in this area.    En savoir plus

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  • Kate PritchettCamino de Santiago 2023/2025Voyageur

    Day 34: O Cebreiro to Alto do Poio

    20 juin 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    Mileage: 5.5 miles
    Altitude gain: 843 feet
    Altitude loss: 719 feet
    Weather: Misty and rainy to begin: sunny and cool later in the morning
    Total mileage: 396.5

    It rained quite a bit in O Cebreiro, which I’m told is common, and the day started with poncho and pack cover. Unfortunately this meant I was denied the mountaintop views, but I guess it’s the price of all the green, right? Once I came down the mountain a bit, the cloud cover receded and it turned into a beautiful day.

    Monica walked with me again, which turned out to be a real blessing. I didn’t feel well overnight, and my morning started with the runs. (No, not the fun kind.) I felt increasingly worse as the walk went on; even small hills felt insurmountable, and my pace grew slower and slower. I finally threw in the towel at the top of the second peak, and Monica kindly called a taxi for me. (I am certain I couldn’t have done this on my own!) I took the cab to Triacastela, where I had already reserved a private room with its own bathroom, fortunately. Two days later I’m still sick and facing the reality that I’m not going to be able to finish this time. Here are the pics from that last short day:

    1. and 2. Misty at the top
    3. This green doesn’t get old!
    4. and 5. The trail did go up and down, so it was in and out of the mist.
    6. There were entire fields of daisies along the way today!
    7. The Iglesia de San Xoán in tiny Hospital
    8. and 9. More mountain views. My best shot has power lines. Maybe I can photoshop it when I get home.
    10. Happy trails!    En savoir plus

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  • Kate PritchettCamino de Santiago 2023/2025Voyageur
    1The countryside outside of Madrid really reminds me of northern NM/southern CO
    The back side of Gaudí's Casa Botines in León¿Como se dice "rawr" en español?

    Travel back to Spain

    17 juillet, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    Travel from Rome wasn’t quite as smooth as I might’ve hoped - the flight was fine but by the time I got to the train station I had missed my next train. It was very hot in Madrid, I was tired and hungry, and I couldn’t seem to rebook tickets online or on the app. Not my happiest hour! I went to the service room and after my number was called (!) an agent booked me to León with a train from there to Ponferrada the next morning. It was, he said, the best they could do. I canceled my room in Ponferrada, booked a new one in León, and figured out how to get to the different Madrid train station where I then finally got the train out of Madrid. If the screen on the train in Madrid was to be believed, it was 105 there!

    It was a relief to get to my room for the night. It was about then that my ratio of excitement to anxiety swung to a better place!    En savoir plus

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  • Kate PritchettCamino de Santiago 2023/2025Voyageur
    Templar Castle, obvsly
    1Amazing and under €8Basilica de la Virgen de la Encina, PonferradaThe first hill on this round, out of Ponferrada. Thanks to Assisi for the training!Not in Italy anymore, but here's one for my arch series1This house color is popular, but the pink really makes it pop.3Day 1 (again) selfieThese mountains are impressive! European version of the broken-down truck at the farm.There were a number of buildings with this unique mosaic-like tiling. Did not stop for chocolate.You could take this same picture all the way across Spain. I guess I have now, ha.In Camponaraya. She spoke to me.Pincho (snack) with "wine tasting" - €1.50 in CamponarayaOne of my favorite places now.Lots of these today!So much fruit growing here! Pears, apples, berries, pomegranates, kiwis, peaches, figs...Happy placeMontes de LeónLots of beautiful balconies in CacabelosErmita de San Roque, Cacabelos. Quite a few of these today.The albergue where I'm staying tonight.

    Day 35 (ish): Ponferrada to Cacabelos

    18 juillet, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Mileage: 11.5 miles
    Elevation gain: 457 feet
    Elevation loss: 605 feet
    Weather: Cool and cloudy at first. 80s and sunny in the late morning and afternoon.
    Total mileage: 408 miles (even though these first days are repeats, I’m counting them!)

    I woke before sunrise to catch the train to Ponferrada. It was a beautiful train ride through the mountains but the train windows were so filthy I didn’t attempt any pics. I arrived in Ponferrada just after 9am and walked a short distance to a sporting goods store, where I bought some poles. (I couldn’t bring mine since I carried my pack on the plane and you can’t carry on poles.) I realized later in the morning that I actually bought poles in this town two years ago after leaving mine behind. Ha. I started my official mileage/route after that, although it was about a mile to the actual Camino route.

    I hadn’t consciously remembered that this particular stage was one of my favorites two years ago, but it was all there in my subconscious, apparently. I was surprised at how much I remembered! A truly excellent day. I really couldn’t have asked for nicer weather, either. I appreciate past Kate’s decision to start with little elevation gain. I didn’t encounter many other pilgrims today but did meet a woman from Slovakia named Eva. This old lady cannot believe she’s walking this thing in flimsy sandals.

    I picked up the Camino at the Templar castle in Ponferrada. This is still spectacular, of course. I had a fantastic breakfast looking at the castle and then had my official start. Ponferrada is quite pretty. Lots of farmland with mountains in the distance followed, and the last few miles came through vineyards into Cacabelos.

    I stayed at a hotel last time I was here but I’m in an albergue tonight. Side note: I really am at peace with my slow walking pace, but it all but assures I’ll be in the top bunk. Oh, well.    En savoir plus

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  • Kate PritchettCamino de Santiago 2023/2025Voyageur
    1My reward for hitting the road so early. Río Cúa
    I don't know about the crows, but the trees do have eyes. Creepy.Looking back at Cacabelos1I'm obsessed with the figs.Pretty sure I took this shot two years ago, but damn.Towards VillafrancaThis is the Puerta de Perdón at Iglesia de Santiago in VillafrancaGargoyle at Colegiata de Santa Maria de Cluny in Villafranca1Pilgrim leaving VillafrancaRío Valcarce. Early morning sounds, including a bicycle going by at the endMy bed (the lower!) tonight. Much better than last night.Looking out of the bedroom windowThe albergue gardenFront of the albergueAcross the creekThe view as I soaked. Unbelievably clear water!So pretty! The bread was good - salt, oregano, and olive oil on it.Uhh...

    Day 36: Cacabelos to Ambasmestas

    19 juillet, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Mileage: 15.25 miles
    Elevation gain: 1,319 feet
    Elevation loss: 899 feet
    Weather: So beautiful! About 60 this morning. Maybe got up to 70s? Overcast much of the time. Nice cool breeze in the afternoon.
    Total mileage: 423.25
    2025 mileage: 26.75

    Another gorgeous stage to repeat! The day started with an ascent out of Cacabelos through more vineyards with mountain views. A descent into Villafranca, and then up into green mountains. Much of the rest of the day was near (below) a highway, which wasn’t so nice, but the clear Río Valcarce ran beside the road/trail and the surrounding mountains were pretty. More bicyclists than cars or pedestrians on the slow incline up through two small villages and into my destination of Ambasmestas.

    I did NOT stop for lunch at the place I had paella two days before I got sick last time. I don’t know that it was the paella, of course, but it felt safer to press on. Once again I was struck by how much I clearly remembered from two years ago. I guess that’s what being present will do for you?

    One thing that came back to me today was how hard those last few miles can be. Everything starts to hurt at around 10 miles! I was very glad to stop for the day.

    Last night’s dormitory was hot and noisy. I really hope the guy below me has a CPAP machine at home! It was easy to get up and hit the road by 6:45 since I was awake anyway.

    Tonight promises to make up for that experience - this is easily the nicest albergue I’ve stayed in. There are only two other women and a cat in the large room where I’m staying. Very Boulder vibe here - Buddha statues, incense, massage-type music, art all over the walls. The lovely couple who owns the place are quite earthy. The woman coaxed a bird to sit in her hand when I walked in. I shit you not.

    The albergue sits on the bank of a stream and I enjoyed standing in it to soak my feet and knees in the cold water. The dinner here was excellent - tomato soup, roast chicken with veggies, and a shredded apple/cream dessert situation. The other two pilgrims here are from California and London and we’ve had some nice chats, mostly about travel. I want to go to Croatia now. There were three additional guests at dinner, one being Victor, the man who owns and takes the horses up and down the next mountain. His picture is in my guidebook! Very interesting dinner conversation.

    This village is having their big feast day party RIGHT outside our window. Live music and a bouncy castle. I’m told it will last until the wee hours. Hope I can sleep! They were playing a game right by our laundry line - looked like cornhole except with small round rocks that they were throwing at a metal object stuck in the ground. I asked what the game is called - llave (key); the metal object does kind of look like a key. I hope it was engrossing enough that they didn’t have time to mock my granny panties…

    Tomorrow will be a hard day, climbing a mountain, but it’s going to be beautiful and cool! I am profoundly grateful for this weather. Fingers crossed it continues!    En savoir plus

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  • Kate PritchettCamino de Santiago 2023/2025Voyageur
    Far more pilgrims than cars on the road this morning.
    I love all of the window boxes here. This one has a hat.Saracen castle ruinIncipient sunflowerLooking back downGreat cardiac workout today!Pilgrims for scaleYesterday the trees had eyes. Today...1Smiling while cold and damp!1Love love love this view1I crossed into the final state of Galicia right before O Cebreiro💜The last stretch leading into O Cebreiro1One last look backIglesia de Santa Maria la Real de O CebreiroA few of these pre-Roman (!) pallozas remain in O CebreirDo you think this roof would hold up under Oklahoma hail?Looking the other way now. (northeast, I think?)The last stretch was more up and down than I remembered.

    Day 37: Ambasmestas to Liñares

    20 juillet, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Mileage: 10.5 miles
    Elevation gain: 2,622 feet!
    Elevation loss: 570 feet
    Weather: Cloudy, misty/drizzly, and cool to the point of cold!
    Total mileage: 433.75 miles
    2025 mileage: 37.25 miles

    I remembered this climb (to O Cebreiro) as being difficult and beautiful, and this was the case again this year. The first four miles were an easy rise on asphalt, continuing to follow Río Valcarce. Very pretty mists on the surrounding mountains and absolutely lush vegetable gardens on the valley floor. The the climb began. Asphalt at first but then it turned into a very rocky trail, which I had remembered vividly. The weather was actually cold, with the mist/light rain and sweat from the exertion, plus some wind, made the 60ish weather less than comfortable. I kept reminding myself what the weather is like at home and tried to enjoy it.

    The mountain views on the last half of the ascent are just spectacular. I just can’t get over how green these mountains are! I probably took 100 pictures, most of which are probably repeats from 2023, but I just want to have this view embedded on my brain!

    O Cebreiro is as charming and busy as ever! This is where I got so sick last time. I had decided to go to the next village this time. I learned from last night’s albergue owner Knut that July is a quiet time on the Camino. I saw a lot of pilgrims on the trail today, but I think most stopped in O Cebreiro. I actually have tonight’s albergue to myself! This is odd but the quiet is nice, especially since last night’s party (an annual event, Knut told me; what luck!) stayed loud until 3 am and there were men still singing while I ate breakfast this morning!! Spanish stamina is remarkable.

    I have stiff knees and what I profoundly hope are mosquito bites (as opposed to bedbug!) on my ankles. Otherwise holding up well. Tomorrow shouldn’t be too arduous and will bring the first new (to me) scenery.    En savoir plus

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  • Kate PritchettCamino de Santiago 2023/2025Voyageur
    The early morning's trail
    View looking south1North view. These vista pics don't do the views justice, but I have to keep trying!I'm marveling at the brute strength and engineering chops this would've required.Check out the stairs on this church! In Hospital.I really did spare you 98% of the pictures like this I took.Another stone fence under that moss. I 💜 trees.The bar in Alto del Poio where I threw in the towel and got in a cab two years ago.In Fonfría, which smells quite strongly of the bovine residents.1But aren't they sweet!The gardens here are UNREAL.TINY church in Biduedo. I would've had to stoop to enter. Check that stone work.Early afternoon trailJust epic.Dessert at lunch: cheesecake made with goat cheese. OMG.I wished I had my horn here to play the 1st 4 notes of the Little House OTP theme song.Tree tunnel. This downhill seemed to last forever.Tree stump or sculpture?? In Ramil.Dunno what that structure is, but it's been there a long time!In Triacastela

    Day 38: Liñares to Triacastela

    21 juillet, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    Mileage: 12 miles
    Elevation gain: 915 feet
    Elevation loss: 2,771 feet
    Weather: 50s and in morning; sunny and maybe 70s in afternoon
    Total mileage: 445.75 miles
    2025 mileage: 49.25 miles

    Another day of beautiful mountain scenery. Lots of downhill - my knees were happy to finish the day.

    I couldn’t believe how chilly it was this morning! The only jacket I brought is my rain jacket but it did a nice job of keeping me warm. I didn’t take it off until 12:30!

    This stage was the one I had to quit in 2023. I remembered clearly today how very difficult the ascents were that day (and where I stopped to use the bathroom!). I’ve actually been kind of emotional today, thinking about how sick I was and how sad I was to have to stop walking. My hotel tonight is across the street from the bus stop where I caught the bus to Sarria. I don’t think I cried that day (too busy pooping, I guess) but I did today. I’m so very grateful to have the opportunity to come back and pick this back up.

    Lunch was better than usual today. The salads here are generally not that great but the bar where I stopped had one with dates, dried figs, apples, cashews, etc. I was very happy to eat it! Dessert was delicious, too. I’ll put it in the pics.

    The old architecture here is really interesting - like those pallozas in O Cebreiro but with slate roofs instead of thatch. Lots of jaunty rooflines and rounded corners. The stonework is amazing to me. I don’t suppose you could build something like that now.

    The bad news: I did indeed get attacked by bed bugs. Not sure which night, since the bites don’t make themselves known for 24-48 hours. Those bites on my ankles were just the harbinger of things to come - the rest blew up at about 2am. I counted 93 bites this morning. They’re on my face, fingers, feet and everywhere in between. I tend to react pretty strongly to bug bites and these have turned into welts, some 3” across. It isn’t pretty. I had brought a small amount of hydrocortisone cream and used that last night. I also have a natural healing stick (beeswax, coconut oil, lavender oil, etc.) that has been helpful. I went to the pharmacy here today and bought more hydrocortisone cream and tea tree oil. Then I went and washed and dried every single thing I’m carrying and wearing, including the backpack. Please cross your fingers for no more bites and no more bugs. It’s not ideal (and I look a fright!) but it is ever so much better than being too sick to continue walking!

    Tomorrow is a relatively easy day into Sarria, where I will celebrate not being super sick in an ugly hotel like I was two years ago. Even better - my friend Angela will meet me there to walk the rest of the way with me!    En savoir plus

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  • Kate PritchettCamino de Santiago 2023/2025Voyageur
    Leaving Triacastela
    Gentle club to beginI continue to look for "arches" or openings. There were quite a few today!There's a ...Lacecap hydrangea, says GoogleSquash?Another eye!1Dog SelleckIn Sarria. I took the pic and then realized it's our hotel. This night be our room, actually.1Spanish cheese is the best. Nothing neutral about it.

    Day 39: Triacastela to Sarria

    22 juillet, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    Mileage: 12 miles
    Elevation gain: 1,125 feet
    Elevation loss: 2,000 feet
    Weather: 50s and overcast in morning. Sunny and quite warm in afternoon.
    Total mileage: 457.75 miles
    2025 mileage: 61.25 miles

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  • Kate PritchettCamino de Santiago 2023/2025Voyageur
    Cool forest path out of Sarria
    So many ferns here!I don't know what these knobby trees are.1I hope you aren't tired of the tree pics.Could this be an upcycled mill stone in this wall?All colors of hydrangea hereAngela makes friends everywhere she goes. This doggo reminded me of our Rex.Look for the openings!See?These are common in the farm villages. Hórreos are granaries specific to this part of Spain.Pine trees - my favorite smellSUCH a beautiful day1Portomarín looks over the beautiful Rio Miño. This is the view from across the river.About to cross the river. Both hats I brought were sacrificed in the bed bug battle.Walk 14 miles and then encounter this?! Made it up, no problems!Iglesia de San Juan de PortomarínWhich way?Detail on side doorway to the church1Looking back over that staircase and the river. Very peaceful.

    Day 40: Sarria to Portomarín

    23 juillet, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Mileage: 14 miles
    Elevation gain: 1,553 feet
    Elevation loss: 1,710 feet
    Weather: 50s and overcast in morning; sunny and 70s in afternoon
    Total mileage: 471.75 miles
    2025 mileage: 75.25 miles

    Another great day! I can’t believe how lucky I’ve been with the weather. Lots of uphill today and then down for about the last third. There are SO many more people on the Camino today! It’s a very different vibe than the solitude of the mountains the last few days.

    We stopped at about 10 miles at a bougie-looking albergue. I had attempted to make an online reservation for this place with no response. When we got there today it was full, so we carried on to Portomarín. It might be nice, crowd-wise, to be stopping at places other than the official (guidebook) stage ends, but today was not the day for that to happen. We are ahead of my tentative schedule; I’m feeling stronger than I thought I might at this point and tomorrow is another TBD day.    En savoir plus

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  • Kate PritchettCamino de Santiago 2023/2025Voyageur
    1Looking back over Rio Miño on the way out of town
    1The early morning was more uphill than this looks.I am very grateful for this weather!Looking back from whence we came after a tough uphillThis garden had gorgeous dahlias. This bush had some as big as Angela's head!Impossible to get people-free pics these days.Lots of pilgrim/St. James art on the CaminoThey're everywhere!So many hydrangeas today!1

    Day 41: Portomarín to Palas de Rei

    24 juillet, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Mileage: 16 miles
    Elevation gain: 2,103
    Elevation loss: 1,398 feet
    Weather: Spectacular. 50s to upper 70s
    Total mileage: 487.75 miles
    2025 mileage: 91.25 miles

    A long day with lots of uphills but beautiful weather and scenery. More pastures, gardens, and forests, but fewer glimpses of the mountains.

    A highlight today was in a little town called Ligonde. Angela noticed a woman making cheese inside a house window and called me back to look. The woman got excited, ran out, and sold us a fresh cheese for $3. So delicious!

    Bedbug update: the bites are still a bit itchy but looking a bit better. We are assiduously checking for signs of the bugs at every stop now.

    Albergue beds are harder to come by since there are so many more pilgrims on the trail these days. I got worried about having a place to stay tonight and made a reservation without paying close attention: once we got to Palas de Rei, I realized that the inexpensive hotel I’d chosen is inexpensive and available because it’s 3.5 miles out of town! Oops. I wasn’t feeling up to another 3.5 miles after walking 16, so we caught a taxi and rode out into the countryside. At that point I figured we were in for a pretty view or the Bates Hotel. Fortunately it’s the former! Very nice and very quiet. We’ll get a taxi in the morning and pick up where we left off. We’re making much better time than I thought we would so we should get to Santiago in just a few days!    En savoir plus

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  • Kate PritchettCamino de Santiago 2023/2025Voyageur
    Walking down these tree-lined lanes continues to be enthralling.
    Just growing by the side of the road. The produce here is good.Iglesia de Santa Maria de Leboreiro1So many groves and forests today. These birches watched us carefully!Ponte de San Xoán de Furelos - Roman bridge outside of MelideRio Furelos1I can't bring myself to try pulpo (regional octopus dish) after Remarkably Bright Creatures!Angel and Angela1Zamburiñas, scallops in olive oil. Delicious!

    Day 42: Palas de Rei to Melide

    25 juillet, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    Mileage: 9.5 miles
    Elevation gain: 891 feet
    Elevation loss: 1,224 feet
    Weather: 50s to 70s again!!
    Total mileage: 497.25 miles
    2025 mileage: 100.75 miles

    I enjoyed the shorter mileage today, and it worked out nicely - we had a late start after getting a taxi back into town. The late start meant the pilgrim traffic was less congested, and since we didn’t walk to a guidebook stage ending, there are fewer pilgrims hobbling around town tonight.

    It is, as it turns out, a big holiday and especially in Galicia, this state. It’s the feast day of St. James, he the “Santiago” of the Camino. Santiago is having a big festival this week and there is a holiday vibe here in Melide. We should arrive in Santiago in time to see some of the celebration there.

    Speaking of that, we are way ahead of my tentative schedule. We hope to arrive in Santiago on Sunday! That will be a long day so I’ll need to pace myself. This will give us a day off in Santiago and more flexibility with the walk to the coast.

    Still itchy but having a great time.    En savoir plus

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  • Kate PritchettCamino de Santiago 2023/2025Voyageur
    Lovely morning light in Melide
    1Lots of flowers here!Openings everywhere!When you have the choice, always take the scenic route.3We made boutonnières of eucalyptus, mint, and lavender today.The views make the hills worth it.Young eucalyptus trees1Awesome lunch today. That's local cheese and empanadas with, yes, beer.How to upcycle those old boots2025 gear photo. Smaller pack this time.This couple held hands all day. Sweet.She was posing. I promised I'd post it for her.

    Day 43: Melide to A Calle de Ferreiros

    26 juillet, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    Mileage: 14 miles
    Elevation gain: 1,553 feet
    Elevation loss: 1,987 feet
    Weather: 50s and breezy in morning; sunny and low 80s in afternoon
    Total mileage: 508.25 miles
    2025 mileage: 114.75 miles

    A beautiful day! Similar scenery to the last few days, with the addition of eucalyptus forests, which smell so good! More sunshine than I’ve been used to, so that made it a little more difficult. Not included here was the 1.5 miles round trip walk to the little grocery store and then the restaurant down the road for dinner. A long day! Tomorrow will be longer but we should end in Santiago!En savoir plus

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  • Kate PritchettCamino de Santiago 2023/2025Voyageur
    OK, so there are a lot of these. Once I started looking, these openings were everywhere!
    So grateful for shade.A fair amount of walking alongside the roadTesting out the plush trail side seating. Four stars.The eucalyptus trees get SO tall!These planned forests are trippy.Break at 16 miles. Tasted amazing. Loopy at this point - called and annoyed my husband for a while!1Capela de Aminas in Santiago, which has almost as many churches psi as Assisi!There was a party awaiting us! This band was really good.

    Day 44: A Calle - Santiago de Compostel

    27 juillet, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    Mileage: 21 miles !!
    Elevation gain: 1,940 feet
    Elevation loss: 2,247 feet
    Weather: more of the glorious same - 50s-80s
    Total mileage: 529.25 miles
    2025 mileage: 135.75 miles

    It was a long day but a great one. We had breakfast and hit the road by 8:00 because we had a lot of miles to cover. More of the same kind of scenery - eucalyptus and oak forests, corn farms, cows, etc. - but it doesn’t get old!

    I had really expected to be just surrounded by pilgrims walking into Santiago but it was a very quiet day. We wondered at one point in the afternoon if we were even on the right road! Starting mid guidebook stage is the way to go, although it did make for the long day.

    It was bittersweet to be on this final leg of this pilgrimage. So happy and proud to be finishing but also wanting it not to be over. Glad to have the walk to the coast left still!

    I was surprised to feel so emotional when we rounded the corner and faced the cathedral. Of course I had seen it two years ago when I had to take a bus there while sick, but this was (of course) a very different experience. It helped that we walked into the cathedral plaza by a route I hadn’t taken before.

    We took our pictures and made our way to our tiny hotel room, where I realized that I’d developed a blister on my right foot. Could be worse! We saw so many pilgrims hobbling and limping. I feel very lucky to be in relatively good condition at this point. Bed bug bites continue to improve.    En savoir plus

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  • Kate PritchettCamino de Santiago 2023/2025Voyageur

    Day 44: Santiago de Compostela

    27 juillet, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    We made it!!! It was surprisingly moving to walk to the front of the cathedral in Santiago. It was a good day but a LONG day - 21 miles! I’m exhausted so will post more pics tomorrow. We’re taking a day off before starting our walk to the coast.En savoir plus

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  • Kate PritchettCamino de Santiago 2023/2025Voyageur
    The Mosteiro (monastery) de San Martiño Pinario. Our room looked right over this from the right.
    Rear view of the cathedral1Better light in the morning1One of my credenciales. I filled two!My CompostelaRandom building detailI think this dude was on the university building.On the cathedral. What creature is that?Cathedral hornBrady Bunch style prophets?Door on monastery. This face is huge.Inside the cathedral. No photos allowed but people went nuts when the botafumeiro came out, so.1BotafumeiroNow THAT'S an organ.Scallops at dinner. Delish.Some of the queimada ritual. It was actually quite dark and dramatic.

    Day 45: Day “off” in Santiago

    28 juillet, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    I don’t know how many miles we walked on this “rest” day but I walked over 14,000 steps! There’s a lot to see and do here.

    We started with a nice breakfast. I awoke with a very sore foot (beyond the blister) but after a soak in epsom salts I’m pretty sure it was just muscle fatigue from those 21 miles in one day! We switched hotels (to a quieter and cheaper one) and then attacked our itinerary for the day.

    First we went to the pilgrim office. Part of the pilgrimage ritual can be collecting stamps in a little booklet (“credencial” or “pasaporte”) to show where you’ve been. That itself is a souvenir, but the stamps can also prove to the pilgrim office that you’ve walked as far as you say you have. They will give you a Latin certificate (“compostela”) with your name (also in Latin) affirming your achievement. This has religious import if you’re Catholic but is a nice memento for the rest of us. They’ll also give you a distance certificate. We went to get those. I was again surprised at how emotional I got. I don’t need a certificate to feel like accomplished something, after all! The woman at the office was very kind about me boohooing.

    We did a little shopping and eating and napping in the afternoon, then went to a pilgrim mass at the cathedral. I went last time I was here but this was a longer version of the mass, I think. I was very excited that they included the swinging of the huge botafumeiro (incense holder) at the end of the mass. I didn’t see this last time, and my understanding is that they don’t often do it due to the expense. My guess is that they do it during the St. James festival. Lucky us! It’s pretty amazing to see (and smell) in person.

    We saw a ritual of a very different kind at our late dinner afterwards. One of the restaurant employees did this whole chanting ritual while stirring a burning concoction. We learned afterwards that it’s a pagan ritual called queimada meant to repel evil spirits. Obviously we accepted a cup of the resulting drink. Hopefully it works on blisters!

    It was a great day off but we’re excited to hit the trail again and head towards the coast in the morning.    En savoir plus

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  • Kate PritchettCamino de Santiago 2023/2025Voyageur
    Just outside Santiago. They seemed to be restoring whatever this is.
    Yes, more of these.Last look back on SantiagoSomeone's house, right on the trail!Power line poleBocadillo (sandwich) for lunch. Huge and I ate the whole thing. Delicious.Aldea Ponte Maceira... over the Rio Tambre

    Day 46: Santiago to Negreira

    29 juillet, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    Mileage: 14 miles
    Elevation gain: 1,772 feet
    Elevation loss: 2,221 feet
    Weather: cool and cloudy in morning, warm and sunny afternoon
    Total mileage: 543.25 miles
    2025 mileage: 149.75 miles

    We set off today on the Camino Finisterre, the route from Santiago to Finisterre (“world’s end”) on the coast. There are still a fair number of pilgrims and this route continues to be well-marked, both of which are surprising to me.

    Similar scenery today to what we’d seen going into Santiago, with perhaps more roadside trail. Although that elevation gain isn’t huge, most of it took place during one shortish but very steep climb midday. It was a hard day but we made it to Negreira, where we’re staying in a nice albergue.    En savoir plus

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  • Kate PritchettCamino de Santiago 2023/2025Voyageur
    The gate to Negreira. What do you suppose were in those little spaces? Shops? Homes?
    From the outsideNear Negreira. I love the lichen and moss colors.Another viewMore sycamores todayDon't know what this huge blossom is.Lots of these B&W cows today.1Pic for our friend Lanette's 50th birthday!1Can I get this lemon soda in the US? It's so good!Lots of roadside walkingCemetery right next to the Albergue. Hadn't seen angels like these before.Another cemetery angel

    Day 47: Negreira to Santa Mariña

    30 juillet, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    Mileage: 13.5 miles
    Elevation gain: 1,900 feet
    Elevation loss: 1,363 feet
    Weather: Sunny; cool and then quite warm
    Total mileage: 556.75 miles
    2025 mileage: 163.25 miles

    It was a difficult day! Sunny with some steep hills. Angela was feeling quite under the weather (bad scallop, maybe?) and I’m impressed that she walked that far. (She’s feeling better today!) We were both very glad to get to our remote albergue. The door and window to our room faced a corn field. I’m glad I never saw that horror flick Children of the Corn! Wild how much corn is growing here when you rarely see it on menus.En savoir plus

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  • Kate PritchettCamino de Santiago 2023/2025Voyageur
    Early morning fields
    Such good boys!Quite a remote day at timesIt was a CLIMB to get here but what a view!Corn!An Iberian emerald lizard. So pretty!This reminded me of the meseta earlier in the Camino.The Vákner statue. In the middle of nowhere. Amazing.Our first view of the seaThis rocky stretch at about mile 16 was no bueno. Fortunately it was only a mile or so.Can't figure out what mountain range that is but it's dramatic!Seeing this on a (steep!) downhill was quite the inspiration to carry on.Cee, our destination. We were walking Cee-wards all day!Cathedral

    Day 48: Santa Mariña to Cee

    1 août, Espagne ⋅ 🌬 63 °F

    Mileage: 20.75 miles
    Elevation gain: 2,176 feet
    Elevation loss: 3,249 feet!!
    Weather: Warm and sunny but with the best cool breeze shoving us along
    Total mileage: 587.5 miles
    2025 mileage: 184 miles

    It was a long one! The frequency of places to stop along the way has diminished considerably since Santiago, which can make for awkward planning. Also, I was keen to get to a place where we can see the water. The good news is (besides the fact that we made it!) that only leaves nine miles to Finisterre. Making this day more difficult was the amount of downhill, some of it quite steep. Hard on the knees!

    It was also a beautiful day. Still so much corn! Angela figured out that the area we’ve been in is called Mazaricos, which means “rich in corn,” and this is no exaggeration. I was surprised at the fact that there are still so many forests; I had imagined that this coast end would be more rocky and less green.

    The first sights of the sea (a bay called Ría de Camariñas) lifted my spirits so much for those last couple of steep descending miles! My knees weren’t quite so enthralled but we all made it.

    The booking.com app did us dirty and didn’t give us the precise location for our hotel but we found it eventually. Very happy to get the feet up at the end of this day!    En savoir plus

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  • Kate PritchettCamino de Santiago 2023/2025Voyageur
    The people of Cee know from bakeries! This was maybe the best pastry of the trip.
    View back to Cee. We came in over that hill the day before.Looking to the next town of Corcubión, which seems much wealthier. Very pretty town.Iglesia de San Marcos in ConcorbiónThe blue is pretty but check out the monster mailbox!Path out of ConcorbiónLooking back over Concorbión and CeeSteep! Grateful for shade in these momentsCrazy succulents1The view from our lunch tableLove love love the pine smellA peek of the seaFirst view of FinisterreWe called this the secret beach. Only accessible by steep trail.Another beachRV park with the best view ever. No vacancy!The colors of the water!

    Day 49: Cee to Finisterre

    1 août, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    Mileage: 10+ miles (we both forgot to restart our Garmins at one point)
    Elevation gain: 1,368+ feet (Garmin oopsie was during an incline)
    Elevation loss: 1,245 feet
    Weather: Sunny and warm; breezy at times
    Total mileage: 597.5 feet + 2 miles back to hotel. Can I call this 600 miles?!
    2025 mileage: 194 miles + 2 miles = 196 miles

    As wonderful as it felt to arrive at the cathedral in Santiago, this day managed to surpass that in joy.

    What with one thing and another, we didn’t leave Cee until late, and as with the walk into Cee, we were slowed down by our frequent stopping to marvel at the scenery. Since we had a shorter day planned, this was fine, and we were glad to be able to enjoy rather than rush.

    We stopped for a lovely view with a lunchtime snack and were tempted to stay and play on the beach! Wet feet = blisters, though, so we carried on, passing several more beaches before we finally arrived in Finisterre. We checked into our hotel and then walked the last two miles to the lighthouse and the “end of the earth,” which I’ll cover in a second post.    En savoir plus

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  • Kate PritchettCamino de Santiago 2023/2025Voyageur
    A most welcome sight
    I love maps. What a kick to see my location dot in this spot!Lighthouse from the sea sideThe end of the world looks like this.Very happy peopleCheers!

    Finisterre: the end of the world

    1 août, Espagne ⋅ 🌬 64 °F

    Arriving at the Finisterre lighthouse and the 0 Kilometer marker after following those kilometer markers for So! Many! Miles! was one of the most joyous moments of my life. Part of it was the sensory - the cries of the seagulls, the briny smell of the sea, the sunshine on the blue, blue sea. Some of it was knowing that I had followed in the footsteps of the millions(?) of people who have made this pilgrimage since before Christian times. Sharing the journey and this culmination with my dear friend was special. And of course, reaching the goal of years of planning and weeks of walking was as gratifying as I hoped it would be.

    Angela and I took our pics and then had some refreshment at the hotel near the lighthouse. Then we walked back to town to shower, do laundry (again!), have dinner, and sleep the slumber of the righteous.

    I’ll make a couple more posts about the final days of the trip.    En savoir plus

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  • Kate PritchettCamino de Santiago 2023/2025Voyageur
    View on the way down to the first beach of the day
    Walking in the sand was good for the tire feet, too!1We ran into a local gang on our way back to town at lunchtime.Pistachio tiramisu at lunch. 10/10, no notes.The windy beach on the capeM is for "mine!"Sunset

    Day 50: Beach Day!

    2 août, Espagne ⋅ 🌬 63 °F

    It was strange to get up and not start the Garmins and set off on the trail, but it was a great day nonetheless. We walked to the beach on the western side of the peninsula and discovered a lovely, quiet slice of sand facing the clear blue Atlantic. While there were some people there (many with well-behaved dogs) there was plenty of room for everyone. We didn’t swim - the water was very cold, and although I’m no ocean expert, seemed to have a stiff undertow. Wading in the cold water felt great on the tired pilgrims’ feet!

    We walked back to town to do a little shopping and get lunch - fantastic vegetarian sandwiches. We decided to check out the beach nearest to the town center only to find it noisy and rocky, so we walked back along the cape to a beach we had passed on the previous day. Beach #3 was busy and very nice except for the gale force winds! We told ourselves we were getting free microdermabrasion but didn’t last long before giving up and heading back to town. We stopped at a grocery for dinner snacks and then rested a bit before heading back to the western beach to catch the end of the sunset. So peaceful and beautiful! We lingered for quite a while, hoping to see the Milky Way, but the moon was too bright.

    While in Santiago we picked up “pasaportes” in which we collected more stamps on the way to the coast, so while in town we obtained our “Fisterranas,” the certificate for this part of the Camino. Seashells from the beach added to our collection of mementos. Overall a great way to spend our first post-Camino day!    En savoir plus

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