Picking up from where we left off after being rudely interrupted by Covid over 2 years ago. This time, the tours organised by Intrepid, will cover Jordan, Israel and Turkey. Read more
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  • 5countries
  • 32days
  • 304photos
  • 6videos
  • 35.4kkilometers
  • 30.5kkilometers
  • Day 1

    Travel in the Covid era

    May 5, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    After 2 and a bit years we find ourselves back at Brisbane airport ready to embark on another adventure. Actually we are picking up where we left off, heading to Jordan where we were supposed to go before being sent home from Egypt in March 2020.

    Our flight is not until after 10pm and at 6pm, the normally bustling airport is relatively deserted. It would be great if this meant the flights are only half full, but I suspect that less planes are flying and those that are, are fully booked. In fact, looking at the board, there are only 5 flights between 6pm and midnight and only 17 flights for all the next day.

    Anyway, I've missed adding to my travel journeys and was keen to get back onto Find Penguins, so here is my first footprint.
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  • Day 2

    Jordan via Doha

    May 6, 2022 in Jordan ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    As suspected, the 14+ hour flight from Brisbane to Doha (Qatar) was fully booked. First time we have flown Qatar and they were not greatly different from Emirates òr Etihad although I think the dinner meal was probably one of the tastiest airline meals I've ever had.

    Arrived in Doha at around 7am where the temperature was already nudging 30°C and the entire area was engulfed in dust. The airport is modern and a lot of work is going on there because Qatar hosts the Fifa World Cup later this year. They even use this fact to promote their airline safety video.

    In complete contrast, the flight from Doha to Amman was probably only a third capacity and a 3 hour flight (why couldn't it have been the other way around). They had a rack and stack way of take off with at least a dozen planes (all Qatar) queuing for take off. Much cooler in Amman - only about 15°C. Not a bad view from our 5th floor hotel room - not beautiful but interesting. We are however, totally exhausted and glad we have a full day to rest up before our tour begins tomorrow evening.
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  • Day 4

    Jerash and Beit Sitti

    May 8, 2022 in Jordan ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Yesterday was a fairly quiet day with a wander around the local area around the hotel and then watching people from our room going about their daily activities. Particularly amusing was the street carpet seller trying to sell his carpets to anyone who dared make eye contact with him. Then there were the guys from a local food restaurant who did a bin run.

    We met up with our tour group in the evening - 11 of us consisting of 4 Australians, 3 Brits, 2 Canadians and 2 Americans - and we are starting to get to know each other over a meal of traditional Jordanian food

    We started our tour with a trip to Jerash, about 50km north of Amman. The ancient ruins were only discovered in the 1800's and is still being excavated today. It reminded me a lot of Ephesus in Turkey with similar features as columns, temples and mosaics arches and amphitheatres. In one theatre there was a bagpiper and drummer. Rather than being Scottish, bagpipes were really Roman in origin. Who knew!

    Later in the afternoon we went to a Beit Sitti which means Grandmothers House and is a cooking class of traditional Jordanian food in a locals own home, which we help prepare and then eat. We've never done a cooking class before and it was a lot of fun.

    Great first day of the tour - tomorrow we leave Amman and head to the Dead Sea.
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  • Day 5

    To the Dead Sea

    May 9, 2022 in Jordan ⋅ 🌙 27 °C

    Left Amman en route to the Dead Sea visiting first the citadel (well Brad did) which turned out to be another lot of ruins and not as interesting as ones already seen.

    On the way we called into Mount Nebo which is recognised as the site where Moses viewed the promised land but died in this area without ever reaching it. Our guide was excited because it was a clear day although to our mind it was quite hazy. Still, the view was spectacular. There was also a church on the site that had elaborate mosiac floors.

    This area is renowned for mosaics as we visited yet another church with an ancient mosiac floor as well as a workshop showing mosaics being made and of course available for purchase (could have done without this).

    The highlight however, was floating in the Dead Sea. It is the most bizarre experience as you bobbed around - felt a bit like trying to sit on a small boogie board but was hard to keep your balance. Brad slapped the black mud on himself which is supposed to have health giving properties. He really enjoyed the experience. I found it energy draining - bit like sitting in a spa for too long and I managed to get some water splashed in my eyes and the extreme saltiness made them sting. I think I much prefer a normal pool.

    Only here for one night, tomorrow we had to Petra - probably the number one tourist destination in Jordan.
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  • Day 6

    Dead Sea to Petra

    May 10, 2022 in Jordan ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    It was very peaceful around the Holiday Inn Resort Dead Sea and not much was planned, activity wise, except drive through to Petra, so we didn't leave until 11am. Nice and relaxing.

    Driving down along the Dead Sea is certainly dramatic. We stopped at one point where the guide pointed out a spire of rock which is supposedly Lot's wife (from the Bible), who disobeyed God and looked back and was subsequently turned into a pillar of salt. They were running away from the sinful towns of Sodom and Gomorrah that God was going to destroy.

    Leaving the Dead Sea we drove up into the mountains rising around 2000m from below sea level to about 1600m. Incredible scenery! Stopped for our own picnic lunch taking in the view.

    The only organised activity we had was a visit to Shobak Castle, built around 12th century and something to do with Saladin and crusades but I couldn't quite grasp what the history or significance of this place was. Guess I'll have to google it (or not - ha!)

    We arrived at the township of Petra and tomorrow we visit the number 1 landmark of Jordan. Think Indiana Jones! Should be great!
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  • Day 7

    Petra by day and by night

    May 11, 2022 in Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    A big day of walking to visit this iconic site. Our hotel is close to the entrance of Petra and from there it is a 2km walk to the Treasury. I loved walking through the Siq which is a narrow chasm, about 1.2km long that opens onto the Treasury. The towering walls and fantastic natural colours in the rocks was quite special.

    At the Treasury, Brad (and several other group members) climbed to a viewpoint with the aid of one of the local Bedouin guides. I declined because I'm carrying a foot injury after a fall a couple of days ago (typical of me to fall over - if there is uneven path, I'll find it) - besides, that's what I bring Brad along for - he is the photographer!

    There is a lot more to Petra than just the Treasury. Walking around the Treasury there is the remains of an entire city complete with shops, tombs, residential area, palaces and amphitheatre. There was also the option to walk to viewpoints of the Monastery and Sacrificial place and those that did them found it quite exhausting. Even the walk back to the hotel was a steady incline all the way - funny, didn't seem to notice we were going downhill all the way in - and we were glad to get back to our hotel.

    That evening we had the option of going to Petra by night which meant walking back down to the Treasury along a candlelit pathway. The activity was ok but could have been improved greatly - probably not really worth the 17 dinars (about $34AUD) pp, but as we will never be in Jordan again it is just another experience to add to the list.

    Before leaving Petra the next morning we visited the Petra Museum and also Little Petra before one last photo stop overlooking the whole of the Petra site. On our way to Wadi Rum for a night in a Bedouin desert camp which should be interesting.
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  • Day 8

    Wadi Rum

    May 12, 2022 in Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Wadi Rum is such an interesting place. Before this trip I had never heard of it but I have seen it in movies as it was the filming location for Lawrence of Arabia and more recently, The Martian with Matt Damon. I can see why, because it is such an alien looking landscape with red sand and towering rocks.

    We enjoyed drive around the area in the back of a Jeep (or Toyota or DMax) looking at the various rock formations and massive sand dunes etc. Finally we arrived at our camp for the night in Bedouin style tents. Kind of like glamping as these tents had power, air con and ensuite bathrooms - no internet access though.

    That night we had a traditional Bedouin meal with food cooked in a pit - rather like a NZ hangi. It was delicious.

    Next day we returned to Amman via Aqaba - a cosmopolitan city on the Red Sea. It lies on the border of Israel and even further around you can see Egypt (at least that is what our tour guide told us). So ends our trip to Jordan. Tomorrow (Saturday), we head to Israel.

    So long Jordan, it's been great!
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  • Day 11

    Jerusalem

    May 15, 2022 in Israel ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We left Amman for the border crossing into Israel. This whole procedure was a bit of a dog's breakfast. It started with us requiring a PCR test to enter the border of Israel on Thursday night (-ve). We had A VIP transfer which kind of walked us through the Jordanian side. On the Israel side our bags were put through security screening (nothing unusual here), but it was a mass of confusion about where we were supposed to go. We discovered there was a form we were supposed to have completed prior to entry which none of our group were aware of. Fortunately someone helped us complete the forms and walked us through passport control, otherwise I think we would still be there. Then we had to have another PCR test as the one done in Jordan only 18 hours before was not accepted. Besides this, after 20th May these tests are no longer required. Could have saved us about $130 on tests.

    Our original group of 11 has dropped to 6 and we picked up 2 newbies - one from Australia and one from USA. We also discovered that Israel is really expensive after lunch (a BLT with fries and a drink) set us back around 200 sheckles or about $90.

    Anyway, we arrived in Jerusalem and I must say we were impressed. The city is clean with lovely narrow alleyways. On our walking tour today we visited the Old Town which included Temple Mount, the Wailing Wall, the street where Jesus carried the cross on the way to the crucifixion, Golgotha where he was crucified (there is a church on that spot now) and burial place. We also spoke to a Jewish Rabbi for an hour and also another person who gave us a history of Jerusalem and its politics. It was all very interesting but very tiring.
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  • Day 12

    Out and about around the Dead Sea

    May 16, 2022 in Israel ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    A very full day doing activities around the Dead Sea (this time Israel side). First stop was Qumran which is where the Dead Sea Scrolls were discovered in 1947 by a young Bedouin sheepherder after his sheep ventured into a cave and wouldn't come out. There he found 7 jars containing the scrolls recounting Biblical stories. After this discovery, many other scrolls were found hidden in caves throughout the area.

    We continued into Masada which is a fortress set high in the mountains overlooking the Dead Sea. Apparently there was an epic movie (Cecil B de Mil style) about Masada but I had never heard of it. Originally built as a Palace for King Herod it became the last bastion for Jewish freedom fighters against the Romans. It's fall signalled the end of the Kingdom of Judea. Masada is A UNESCO World Heritage site as it is the most complete surviving Roman seige system in the world.

    Next stop was another float in the Dead Sea and even though we had already done it on the Jordan side, this was so much better. The access was easier and the water was warmer - I really enjoyed it this time.

    Finally we returned to Jerusalem, calling into the obligatory factory stop where they make the Dead Sea minerals skin care products. No doubt they are good, but outrageously expensive. Then onto Jericho which is the oldest city in the world and also the place where they believe Jesus was tempted by Satan when he wandered in the wilderness for 40 days fasting. It is also known for the place where Joshua's army marched around the city walls 7 times and the walls came tumbling down. However there was nothing really to see regarding the walls and Jericho as a city was quite grubby, particularly compared to Jerusalem.

    Last day in Jerusalem, off to Bethlehem tomorrow.
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  • Day 13

    Jerusalem to Bethlehem

    May 17, 2022 in Palestine ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We left our hotel for the Mt of Olives which had commanding views over Jerusalem. From there we went to the Garden of Gethsemane where Jesus went to pray after the last supper and from where he was arrested. There is also a church with 12 domes that was funded by 12 different nations (hence the 12 domes)

    Just out of Jerusalem we visited Yad Vashem which is the Jewish Holocaust Memorial. We spent 3 hours here in what was a very interesting, moving and often confronting account of what happened to the Jews leading up to and during WW2. Our guide was an Australian girl whose parents were Holocaust survivors who were rehomed in Melbourne after the war. Brad could have spent many more hours reading all the plaques and looking at all the photographs. (No photographs permitted in the memorial)

    From this sombre activity we moved onto Bethlehem visiting the Shepherds Field where the angels appeared to the shepherds to announce the birth of Jesus. There is a church there that has amazing acoustics and our guide was trying to encourage us to sing a Christmas carol, however we were a little shy. Fortunately a group from Africa (or maybe Fiji or New Guinea) arrived to show us how is done. Yes, the acoustics are amazing!

    We completed the day by looking at some Bethlehem graffiti walls including some works by Banksy, and of course the Nativity Church where Jesus was born. Of course it is no longer a stable. We also had dinner with a local Christian family which seemed a little awkward at first (a group of strangers rocking up to someone's home), but it turned out to be a very pleasant evening. What is really strange is there is the Nativity church ringing its bells 33 times early in the morning while at a similar time there will be the Muslim call to prayer. An unusual mix.
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