• Dan and Arlene
Sep – Okt 2017

My Camino

Petualangan 39-sehari oleh Dan and Arlene Baca selengkapnya
  • Terradillos to Bercianos- 15 miles

    16 Oktober 2017, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Pretty warm this morning so I left my fleece packed as I thought I would need to take it off shortly anyway.

    It's only rained once since I've been in Europe, and that was just a sprinkle, so rain tomorrow will be a blessing of sorts. Since I leave well before daybreak, my headlamp has been reflecting light off the dust particles floating in the air and I can see them near my eyes so this is really dry. Throat and nasal cavaties are pretty dry. Wildfires are creating issues here as they create issues in the states. Wonder if any have made the national news?

    As I was trying to navigate through a small village in the dark looking for the yellow directional arrows I noticed a group of three women approaching me with packs on. Going in the right direction, I asked. No, was the reply and we all walked back to the intersection to find the arrows. Nice group of elderly Welsh women (I suspect all were in their late 70's or possibly older). Anyway, one was having foot problems and I was chatting with one of the others about what life was like in Wales. Interesting to say the least. We had a break together at a small cafe and I shared half of my huge, but stale, sweet roll with the one having foot issues. We shortly parted ways as I needed to keep moving.

    Saw some interesting sights in addition to the typical Camino scenery - one thing of interest was the meeting of the Camino Madrid with the Francis in Sahagun. Thought there would be a traffic circle or something, but did not see any increase in pilgrim activity nor was there a marker that I could find. Just the map. I will admit that I did not waste my time looking for something that might not exist so I took a couple of pictures of the city gate and the attractive bridge over the river (right now it is barely a creek).

    The day turned out warm, ran across a couple that I had met several days ago, and finished in Bercianos where I was told that there were no washing machines in town (population of 450) so did the barest of necessities to get by. Just hope the stuff dries on the line as it is going to rain early and stuff pinned to my pack is not going to dry.

    I am two days from Leon so with the rain we'll see if walking in the rain is much fun. I know when I walked on the mountain, it was no fun at all so I suspect a similar emotional situation will occur tomorrow.

    Seeing more greenery and with the rain, flowers just might jump out of the ground.

    Buen Camino
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  • Mansilla to Leon 11.2 miles

    17 Oktober 2017, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    This morning reminded me of one of those delightful mornings in October. You know, when you wake up in the dark and hear the gentle rain falling against the windows. You think that since there is nothing much to do today, just roll over and catch a few more minutes of sleep So you tuck your hand under the pillow and catch another 40 or so until nature's alarm clock awakens you. Then you put on your slippers and robe, quietly walk into the kitchen to make a wonderful cup of hot coffee. Oh my! My hands embrace the warm beverage mug and I quietly sit in my favorite chair, sipping the beverage of delight and engage in reading the news, or just staring out the windows. That's sort of how my day started.

    I work up in the dark to the sound of rain gently falling against the window and thought...@#@@###&&*. So I turned over and went back to sleep until nature's alarm clock went off. Then I put on my slipper boots, my gator sock covers, my pajama bag, and my poncho robe and tried to find the kitchen for that wonderful cup of heaven. Someone forgot to tell me that the lights were out and I could not find them. I could hear others moving around and making too much noise on such a wonderful day in October.
    I found my way out of the bedroom and after way too many minutes and miles finally found the kitchen for a warm cup of Java and the joy that it brings. The kitchen where they deliver coffee to my favorite easy chair for me to enjoy. I even paid for that bit of heaven and the angle thanked me. (This ain't no dream).

    Cound not resist fanticisng a bit, but those simple pleasures that we take for granted sometimes mean an awful lot when denied. But one day soon, I will again put on my slippers and wrap my hands around a wonderful cup of java and enjoy the morning in my favorite chair.

    Needless to say it was raining this morning and made for poor pictures, but my rain gear kept me dry and I enjoyed the walk into Leon where I found an upscale albergue just across from the cathedral. My laundry is being done, have cleaned up, and will venture out shortly.

    Had a good lunch and now relaxing in a chair charging the phone. Why, I do believe it is time for a nap (another one of those wonderful times in October when the gentle sound of rain generates an overwhelming desire for a little snooze).

    Leon has much to explore...until tomorrow.
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  • Leon - Day 2

    19 Oktober 2017, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 2 °C

    Ahhh, I sit here at a local restaurant enjoying a coffee, large orange juice, and a crossant with ham and cheese. Yummy. It is chilly this morning, about 38, but no rain is expected.

    Leon has quite a Roman influence with their initial presence around the time of Christ. Two city walls were built, one in the first century AD, and the second in the third century AD. Good examples remain of both walls and they remind me of Hadrian's Wall in northern England. There is an excellent museum here pertaining to the Roman influence and the mockup of a barracks is a spitting example of an albergue. Seems like the Romans continue to have an influence on the Camino. Current excavations continue to reveal more information about that part of Leon's history.

    I walked around the old city and it's historical sites this morning except for the cathedral and I'll save that for tomorrow.

    The Basilica of San Isidoro was quite nice, but I really liked the wooden carving in Iglesia Ntra Sra Mercado...and the narow, curvy and winding streets. One could get lost without a map and if not for the many watering holes, die of thirst and malnutrition before being found. Hey, this is a really cool place to hang out for a couple of days.

    Also of interest is the Casa de Botines. Looks like a fairy castle.

    More pics tomorrow as I've maxed out for today.

    I'm chilling out for the rest of the day as one purpose of taking a couple of days here was to rest and get ready for more walking. Plan to have a pizza tonight at a place recommended to me by Thomas, the young German pilgrim that I met what seems like many days ago now. He found a place that serves fantistic pizzas so I'll try one. I'll add that where I'm staying is called Globetrotter and the "dorms" remind me of a new Pullman sleeper car. Double berths with a very narrow walk space. Nice, quiet, and the facilities are just across the hall. Oh, I do like this trip.

    Excellent pizza. Until tomorrow.
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  • Leon - Day 3

    20 Oktober 2017, Spanyol ⋅ 🌫 10 °C

    Dark and cloudy this morning, and the party goers that were celebrating last night until who knows when are still tucked away somewhere, but not where I can hear them. Most bars close at 2 am so there must be a lot of folks on vacation.

    The first picture that I added is one of the illuminated cathedral taken last night. Quite dramatic I think.

    Just had a very comfy cup of coffee followed by juice and another crossant which completed my early morning breakfast. Will need another in an hour or so as my appetite is returning and I have miles to go. Oh yes, the pizza I had last night was probably the best ever. The crust was thin, soft and chewy and the ingredients were excellent. Ate the whole thing (so proud of myself for being a little piggy) and it must have been 14 inches or so. Would have taken a picture, but then we know what a pizza looks like and there are better things to record and share.

    Been trying to figure out how the Spanish can eat so late, and eat out as often as they appear to do. What do they do with the kids? Given all the bars and restaurants, and the absence of motorized traffic people must live downtown, or at least very close by and can walk to shops, etc. Also wonder how the bars, etc. make money as there are bars everywhere, and I do mean everywhere. Well, I'll give that some thought when I have nothing else to think about.

    Just returned from a mercado with a quart of OJ and some dried fruit. This will suffice until an early lunch.

    My visit to the cathedral was inspiring. Construction began in 1253 on the site of an older house of worship. Amazing structure and a marvel of artistic and building talent. I've included several of my favorite pictures for your enjoyment.

    For being an off day and an "off the feet" day, I've been walking a lot. Wanted to capture another picture or two of the Roman walls that encircle the old city. Modern Leon is outside the Roman walls and it is interesting how they integrated the old walls into modern building as I am certain that there are laws pertaining to the preservation of antiquity...however, they have the same issues we do with vandals defacing relics with paint. Too bad.

    Leon was a good stop for a couple of days for me to recoup my strength and energy. My appetite appears to have returned with a vengeance and now I can understand how the bars make money...the pilgrim's of course. Lots of hunger and thirst. Plus we do not drive vehicles, only walk, so the environment is cleaner.

    By the way, Leon is one of the few cities in Europe where tapas are "free". No extra charge! How about that! A free meal that is free. Of course, one first has to travel to Leon for the free tapas. (Always a catch).

    I went across the ally for a pilgrims menu, but was told no. They were not serving and the impression I got was that no pilgrim meals even though there was a sandwich board outside. Anyway, my roomie, who is from England, suggested a heavy sandwich shop just down the street so I tried there. Really did not want to wait until 8 pm for dinner (just finished and it is 5:15 pm). Reminded me of a Subway and the chicken and ham hot sandwich was delicious. The bread, though not soft like a subway, was much softer than the traditional bocadillo I had been getting. That, plus a nice salad and a Coke, will keep me happy until tomorrow.

    Hope you enjoy the pictures. I've a 12 miler tomorrow and the weather looks to be ok for walking (as if I have a choice).
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  • Leon to San Martin, 16 miles +/-

    20 Oktober 2017, Spanyol ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Well now, it's Saturday, and my favorite restaurant was not open as early as yesterday so I left sooner than I wanted, and on an empty stomach. Hooked up with several other pilgrims as we tried to find the arrows in the starlight walking several miles on pavement, sidewalk, etc. as we navigated through the industrial part of West Leon. Went up a few hills with a very cool breeze blowing into my face. Had on my jacket zipped to my neck, gloves, and used the chin strap for the Tilly or it would have been a UFO flying into the sky.

    I did find a bar that was open early on for a coffee and a piece of potatoe pie, then later, an open mercado for an apple and a snickers bar. That was tasty (the snickers, then the apple to clean the choppers).

    A good bit of the walk was along the highway, or just off it so the scenery was not the more enjoyable woodsy scenes that remind me of the mountains, but did enjoy one brief instance that the camino took me through a canopy of autum leaves.

    Noticed a couple of cute photo ops and captured them. The last pic is of my room in the albergue - all for 20 euros, and dinner tonight at 7 consisting of chicken and rice.

    Had lunch along the way at a rest stop. A burger with a piece of bacon, two pieces of processed lunch meat, fries, salad, and a coke. Way too much food for me, but I did a good job with it.

    The last few miles I walked with a South Korean that spoke pretty good English. He could not have been older than 25 and was enjoying his first camino. Had a huge pack, but with the temperature forecast to be 35 at 7 am tomorrow, probably smart of him to pack all those clothes. For myself, I'm looking for another fur lined something. Guess I'll have to wear everything I've got as it is not expected to rise out of the 40's until I arrive in Astorga. Thinking about stopping over there for a night as I have the time and there are more Roman ruins to investigate as well as the cathedral.

    As I write this, it is 4 pm. I am sitting in the restaurant area so I can get wifi, and enjoying a cup of warm coffee as it is still chilly outside, too chilly to sit in the sun.

    Dinner was quite enjoyable with others from around the world to share the meal with. More tomorrow.
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  • San Martin to Astorga - 14 miles +/-

    21 Oktober 2017, Spanyol ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    Talk about cold! Wow! Need more warm clothes. Put on all that I had and walked at a very brisk pace to generate some heat. Noticed frost on the ground and captured a pretty sunrise. It seems that they are the most colorful when it is cold.

    Had a cup of coffee in San Martin and stopped for breakfast in Hospital De Orbigo so I covered about six miles in the cold with about nine to go.

    Made my first wrong turn this morning...in the dark. Had the headlight on, but must have missed a turn somewhere. When I came to a hard surfaced road and did not see an attow, I checked the book and the Camino was much closer to the highway than I was so I made a left, walked about 1/4 mile down the road, found the arrow, made a right and kept trucking.

    I finished the walk to Astorga receiving one act of kindness. I stopped at a mercado for fruit and the owner gave me an orange as a gift. He used his cell phone to translate. Probably does not see too many pilgrims as old as I am and it is not a problem for me to look tired.

    Once in Astorga, I walked around looking for a hostel where I could chill out for a couple of nights. Made a couple of false starts, backtracked, and found the Casa de Tepa. The gentleman that helped me told me that the property had been in his family for over 200 years.

    We negotiated the price and when I offered my credit card, he said to pay later. The room is great and I'll enjoy it for the next couple of nights. He asked me where I was from and when I replied, he went into a closet and came out wearing a new year's eve plastic hat with the stars and stripes covering it. We had a laugh at that, and I think he gave me his best room. First floor, sunken bed and TV watching area, and separate shower and toilet areas. Towels large enough to wrap around twice with some left over.

    Anyway, I am sitting in a laundry washing my clothes. Met a couple from Canada and she helped me with the washer settings so I should be clean in about an hour, then food.

    Interesting picture of the bridge leaving de Orbigo, the trail in front of me, and a stature of a pilgrim drinking something. Is it water or wine, and if wine, tinto or blanco?

    The tower appears to be a grain storage silo given the number of corn fields close by and the long range picture shows Astorga. Zoom in and you can see the cathedral. The other picture is the road in front of the mercado.

    Dinner is a bocadillo - ham, cheese, and tomato. Always an issue finding someplace that is open and serving food after two but before eight. Going to enjoy my beer and ham sandwich, then might go out later.

    Nope, in for the night.
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  • Astorga

    23 Oktober 2017, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Had a relaxing morning since I had nothing really planned except for a couple of things that I found to be important (makes perfect sense to me).

    I mentioned the kindness strangers had extended to me in past days. Well, there have been a couple more worthy of note. The first one occurred when I paid my room bill this morning. The owner had reduced the rate by another ten euros daily so this was enough to feed me for a day for sure.

    The second, and most importantly, occurred today as well. Last night I had a bocadillo for dinner and I chipped my molar. Bad news with two weeks to go. I shared my tale of sorrow with the owner this morning after I could not find a dental clinic open and he took it upon himself to call around, found an open clinic that he trusted and got me in as an emergency patient . As luck (perhaps Camino luck) would have it, the dentist did a wonderful job of grinding down the rough edge, then filled the void with amalgam. Said no chewing for two hours and it should be ok. Paid the 60 euro with many thanks. A very talented dentist, and very young. We communicated via a translation app on her smart phone and things went well.

    It's going to be cold for the next several days in the mornings so I found a sporting goods store and got a stocking cap and a much heavier, tighter fitting sport shirt that should keep me much warmer. I proudly walked out with the cap on my head feeling Christmas had arrived.

    Had time to tour the cathedral and have attached a picture or two as well as of the old Roman walls. Wish I could attach more, but these are the best. The Roman museum was closed and I'm disappointed as I wanted to see the Roman baths and compare to some of the facilities I've found along the Camino. Probably about the same quality. That reminds me...I've made a decision on the distance I will walk each day. I am going to limit myself to 20 km (that's about 12.4 miles). Reason is that I am getting tired, and arriving later than I need to ensure that I get lunch. I should make Santiago on November 5 which will give me a couple of days there before I fly to Madrid the evening of the 7th and home on the 8th. Fiesta for sure!

    Muxia will have to wait for another life.

    Lunch was a late breakfast. Fried eggs, bacon and sausage (which was nothing more than a hot dog). Juice and coffee were added; all for 5.50 euros. I'm going back there in the am before walking out of town. My first breakfast was a piece of potatoe pie and coffee and for breakfast dessert, I've had four yogurts, more apricots and a quart of juice. Dinner should be nice. I can wait until later as I am full at present.

    Thought a picture of the owner (sitting) and his assistant would be appropriate and interesting. I owe him a big debt of gratitude. The Roman walls are included and one showing how thick they were built as well as the construction materials used. The building that is referred to as the palace is the Episcopal Palace (the tourist information center must be closed for the season), and two pictures of the interior of the cathedral. The square near the cathedral is not large enough to permit a really good picture of the exterior so I'll make due with the interior. Also found a modern sculpture in one of the squares, but not appropriate for Jack to view (sorry Jack).

    So tomorrow I'm going to leave with my new cloths on and dance a jig in the square :)

    Just got a Fitbit email stating I have walked the equivalent of New Zeland, or 990 miles. All since the 8th of july. I learned that walking uphill as well as downhill gives more Fitbit miles since the steps are shorter, but I'll take it. Beggars cannot afford to be choosey.

    Dinner was a pizza, a procuitto personal pan pizza. In case you are wondering why I would order a pizza, well, it's comfort food and I can chew it on one side of my mouth. So far, so good so I celebrated by purchasing some of my favorite gummy candy. Nice.

    Until tomorrow.
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  • Astorga to Rabanal 12 + miles

    24 Oktober 2017, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Decided not to return to the restaurant where I had a late breakfast yesterday. There was an all you can eat opportunity where I spent the night and they lost money on me. Quite a spread. I had lots of oj, ham, tomatoes, other breakfast meats, some stuff I could not recognize (and I did not try it as 12 miles is a ways to go with an upset system), cheeses, toast and jam, and if course coffee. Very nice and I was pretty full when I danced in the street with my warm clothing on. Worked perfectly and I was warm as toast. The stocking cap under my Tilly perhaps looked strange, but then we are all camino friends. The expression works on the Camino as well as other places...what happens on the Camino stays on the Camino so if I look like a poorly fashioned pilgrim, so be it. Nobody should know except those I wish to tell.

    Walk was a gradual uphill climb and it will get worse over the next couple of days as the Camino crosses the mountain range. Yes, the Pyrenees is not the only mountain range to cross. The Cantabrian Mountains also pose an obsticle and must be crossed. One of the pictures I attached is a long range view of what's in front of me. Fun? Yes, I'm having fun and enjoy the challenge.

    Scenery changes by the mile. Old churches, fields full of pumpkins, and parents biking the camino with their children. Dad had one and mom (in front) had the other and most of the time the kids were peddling.

    Notice the guy taking the picture (in the lower left corner) of the long range view. Recognize him? Ahhh, come on, surely you recognize the famous author and world traveler. Well, you'll just have to figure it out 'cause I ain't telling. So there.

    Found a comfortable place in Rabanal and am relaxing as I write this. Dinner is at 6 PM so that is nice. Bedtime by 7:30 and no grass to cut.

    Dinner consisted of two fried eggs and three large pork chops. Lot of food and should be good to go in the am.

    Ran across a guy from California that I met on October 1. Thought he looked familiar, but his hair was longer (so is mine). Pretty neat to reacquaint with folks from the past after all of these miles.

    Tomorrow I walk to Acebo. Tommy tells me they have the best breakfast on the Camino.
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  • Rabanal to Acebo - 17.5 kms.

    25 Oktober 2017, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 4 °C

    A shorter walk today, but in the plan as it was mostly uphill and downhill, but more uphill. The trail made it challenging with large potatoes, eggs, softballs and just about everything else imaginable to walk on. Glad I only did about 10 miles or I would be exhausted.

    The scenery made it worthwhile though as I love the mountains and the views were very pretty. Could have been on the Blue Ridge Parkway except there are no wind turbines there yet. Perhaps in the future, but not now.

    First stop was a very small village for a glass of orange juice, then onward and upward as they say to the Cruz de Ferro (you should recall the scenes in The Way when all left something to release themselves of some of life's burdens). When I arrived I noticed a pilgrim (nationality shall not be mentioned as I am on a pilgrimage) walking all over the site taking numerous pictures. History suggests this to be a holy site where pilgrims leave a symbol of their burden that they want forgiveness for.

    So I continued and passed a structure that I can only figure missed the local zoning ordinances, but who knows.

    In the distance is a destination that I should reach tomorrow and I believe it is Ponferrada. I'll be sure when I arrive.

    A couple of interesting memorials that I captured. One could be an LL Bean boot advertisement, but I doubt it and the other, well, you make the call.

    Wish I could attach two more, but the limits of technology.

    I found a very nice and new albergue. For 45 euros, I got a private room with a shower in the room, dinner and breakfast. My laundry is being done by the staff as they only have the one washer and dryer so that will be done shortly. Dinner at 7 PM.

    Interesting how we develop habits and how quickly we do that. For example I can pack my backpack without looking as I know where everything goes...

    (it all goes into the big hole in the top...fooled you!). I also unroll my sleeping bag each day regardless of the arrangements (private room or albergue) and feel right at home (well, not quite like home, but you get the message). Rather sleep in my bag as I know that it has been sprayed with anti-bug juice and I should be safe from critters that roam at night.

    So here I am waiting for dinner and a stupid rooster thinks it's 5 am. What is wrong with the Spanish barnyard animals? Everyone knows that roosters cockle-doodle-do at daybreak and rest their voice the balance of the day. I'll probably sleep through my usual wakeup time with this rooster messing things up. His clock is really off.

    Dinner was delicious. A nice salad, chicken for the main course, then fruit for desert.

    Tomorrow, on the road again.
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  • Acebo to Ponferrada - 17 kms

    25 Oktober 2017, Spanyol ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Breakfast was later than I preferred, but the rooster kept quiet (the dog did not) so a good way to begin the day? Great breakfast and ate too much as I had a side stitch for a mile or two.

    I need to share a story from yesterday that I forgot about. When I stopped for an orange juice, there was a group (herd) of cats outside the cafe milling around and I guess looking for handouts. That's what cats do, you know. Anyway, as I was taking off my pack, a dog comes charging up the street and the cats scatter to the four winds. One up a tree, one on top of a car, one jumped onto a wall, then to a roof of a shed, and another I lost sight of. Well, the dog comes to a quick stop, does a 360 as if trying to figure out what to do and which cat to chase. The cats just stayed in place as if to say "we got you, now where's your horse?"

    A cool start, but the temperature warmed quickly once the sun made its appearance. The trail was a mix if road walking and downhill gully walking. Not as bad as yesterday, but not easy. I passed through the community of Riego de Ambros early and the lights were still on. The mountains were again a sight to marvel with the fall color starting to appear.

    Stopped at Molinaseca for a very pleasant cup of hot coffee (too early and cold for a beer), OJ, and some pastries (notice the interior of the bar...very nice). There was also an old bridge leading into town and one could tell that they needed water as the river was but a trickle. I believe I stepped across it coming down the dirt and rock hill.

    As I got closer to Ponferrada, a cute house with window boxes full of flowers and the Camino sign visible for pilgrims to see. Finally the bridge leading into Ponferrada. I love these old bridges. Wish we had some in the USA that could compare.

    Once in Ponferrada, I departed the trail to find an albergue off the beaten track and am delighted with my find. They serve all meals and all are home cooked. For lunch, I had a wonderful hot pumpkin and squash soup, salad and a bacon quiche with ice cream for dessert. I could really get use to this.

    Dinner was at seven, but was told that I could have it earlier. Seven was fine with me.

    Delicious dinner (lentil soup, salad and chicken, and ice cream for dessert) and an Italian joined me. He works in Spain and is fluent in at least three languages as he understood me quite well.

    Tomorrow is a busy day and I need my rest. Enjoy.
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  • Ponferrada to Villafranca - 25 kms

    27 Oktober 2017, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    I was in a room with three others, an Italian, one from Hong Kong, and the other from Tiawan. Those guys snore too. Had to use my ear plugs to get some sleep.

    Had a pretty good breakfast with yogurt, cofffee, OJ, and pastries, then packed and left in the dark. The sun does not rise until well after eight (8:56 tomorrow to be exact) and with no roosters and dogs to worry about, got a pretty good night's sleep once the ear plugs went in. Think I will alternate between the traditional albergue and the private room route. A private room is much nicer and quieter.

    Passed the castle on the way out, and if I recall the movie (The Way) correctly, it was in Ponferrada where the backpack was stolen, then the next day the son carried the pack to the city gates. No gates, but a pretty park. I think the attached picture is of the walkway. If not, then it is quite pretty anyway.

    Unusual trail markers and it's pretty difficult to get lost with something like that to point out the camino.

    Passing through one small village, it appears that Halloween is a big deal here, unless there is something I do not umderstand. We'll assume that it's all about Halloween.

    Fall is here. Not sure about where you are, but here it is fall. Met a group from Australia walking along and also ran into the Canadian individual that has walked this way several times. Guess she does not mind doing her laundry (but I do and I think that is the worse feature of the camino. Just love it when I can find machines or someone that will do it for a modest fee). Today I found a very nice albergue with several private rooms and the owners were willing to do my laundry for five euros. That is what I call a deal!

    The last picture is a view of the mountain I will be on for the next couple of days, then as far as I am concerned, it is all downhill. Once I reach Sarria, the trail becomes a known entity and the goal is in sight. I will pass through Sarria on the 4th day of walking (beginning tomorrow).

    I ate light tonight as I had a huge lunch and still trying to digest it. Yogurt is very healthy you know.

    Tomorrow, one more time, on the road again.
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  • Villafranca to Herrerias - 22 kms

    27 Oktober 2017, Spanyol ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    Today was one of those days that occur all to infrequently. The morning was clear and brisk. As the sun rose and I could see more I realized that this just might be the best day of my camino. It will really take something to top it. Scenery was fall beautiful.

    Breakfast of yogurt, coffee and juice, and pastries paved the way for a perfectly delightful walk. While most of it was along an almost empty road, other parts were along a country lane with trees turning color, fields full of animals (think sheep and cattle) and streams keeping the woodsy noise pleasant and relaxing. It felt great to be alive!

    The trail had a steady uphill angle to it, and given that I still have to climb over 600 meters in about seven kms tomorrow, I want to leave early tomorrow and climb while it is cool. It will be really "cool" to arrive at O'cebreio and see the sunrise (I need a rooster tomorrow with an accurate clock).

    I had a second breakfast, then passed through a hamlet and noticed a house with an unusual in-law suite...on the third floor. So when the owner tires of his in-laws he just invites them to enjoy the view from the patio by stepping out the door and wala, all in-law issues are solved.

    The pilgrim stature made me realize that I still have a good distance to navigate, but have come a long way. If this wonderful fall weather continues, making Santiago by November 5 should not be an issue.

    Hope you enjoy the pictures. Lots of detail so please expand and see the sights.

    Lunch was a ham and egg omlet. A bit salty, but I was hungry and probably needed the salt. Plan to loaf around this afternoon and enjoy a Menu del Dia for dinner. I'm sitting outside the cafe enjoying the afternoon sun chatting with a pilgrim from Germany on her last day...no more vacation.

    My room has a window that opens onto the street. Kids are playing, adults are chatting, and I'm thinking about a beer. Haven't had one in several days due to not feeling totally up to par, but today is a different day. Yep, I'm going down and grab a cold one.

    And it was really good! Also found out that dinner at seven is ok, so I'll enjoy an early dinner tonight.

    Dinner was a very large salad with tuna, chicken with French fries, and a navel orange for dessert. They gave me a very dull knife to cut it up. Anyway, very filling and am calling it a night.
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  • Herrerias to Padornelo - 17 kms

    29 Oktober 2017, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Wow! If yesterday was my best day on the camino, today was the toughest. A 595 meter climb, almost 1955 feet.

    A very nice day for the climb though. Stopped often for coffee, juice, and my favorite chocolate pastry. Well worth the effort.

    The small communities I passed through must have had their weekly cow parade yesterday through main street and one could tell. Nothing insults the senses more and the reason pilgrims have to leave their shoes outside, but the good thing was that it had not rained around here in quite some time. Very thankful for that. A picture of those wonderful critters is attached for your enjoyment and as a reminder why we do not allow cows on the mountain as pets or otherwise. They appear to be preparing for next weeks parade.

    Early morning sunlight on the hills highlights the color and veriation of the terrain. Now I know why I so love the mountains...just gorgeous.

    I ran across the three ladies from Wales again halfway up the mountain. One had to return to a cafe to look for her glasses as she thought she had left them. Glad it wasn't me that left my glasses as it was a long way in the wrong direction.

    O'Cebreio (the church) Is attached and a picture of the distant haze that again reminds me of those mornings when I am enjoying coffee and looking at the "cats paws " in the valley below. This valley is a very distant valley, but the general direction that I will be walking.

    The last picture is a memorial to pilgrims that are trying not to lose their Tillies in a stiff breeze. Too bad the angle of the light was not better, but you get the picture. I've had to grab mine several times to keep it on my head and out of the pastures and ravines.

    I stopped about one PM today. Tired after the climb and we changed to standard time last night so DST is no more in Spain until next year. Found a hostel that would do my laundry and served a wonderful lunch (salad, fried egg, two huge pieces of bacon and fries), and I ate the whole thing to include flan for dessert. I even licked the plate it was so good. Now for dinner!

    Dinner was another excellent salad, a pork chop, potatoes and beans. Good meal and I had another flan (and licked the plate yet again).

    Might try to reach Sarria tomorrow. Just depends on the trail condition and my energy level.
    Baca selengkapnya

  • Padorleno To San Mamed 27+ kms

    30 Oktober 2017, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Had planned to walk to Sarria, but got hungry and tired so I stopped perhaps a mile or two short.

    The first thing I do each morning is to check the weather (if wifi is adequate). This morning it was clear and 38 so the question was to put on all my clothing, or to put on all my clothing. Question answered and I went out the door fully decked out with my headlamp in place only to find that it was foggy. I recall what happened to Daniel in the movie The Way (it was foggy, he got lost and died of exposure) so I looked around and through the fog I saw a beacon of light eminating from afar ...a bar with coffee no less. So I found my way and enjoyed a hot cup of joy while the weather and daylight improved.

    There was a rather large dog in the bar (and no cats) that appeared to make himself at home with the customers and no one was giving him any trouble. That dog did what he wanted to do.

    After a fashion I left and took all my arms, legs, and digits with me. Fog still around and it made for a nice walk in the mist until it cleared. As on prior days, the elevation makes for beautiful scenery and I enjoyed the quiet and beauty of the morning.

    They must be redoing part of the trail as it was pristine with new Camino markers that the graffiti experts had not yet reached. A very old church in the hills was quite nice and well situated amongst the surroundings and as the haze lifted, there was much to see. What a beautiful country!

    Stopped in Triacastela to visit a mercado to buy some snack food, then continued toward Sarria deciding to stop at about 2 pm so I could get some food while places were still serving. The Albergue that I stopped for the evening reminded me of a highway motel. You remember, the kind that you drive right up to the door. Well, here, you just walk right up to the door. Same concept. Very clean rooms and I got a private room with free breakfast. Dinner is communal at 7 and I look forward to that.

    The owner of the albergue called a local restaurant for a salad for me as I was pretty hungry. It was delivered in a huge salad bowl that would serve four people. I ate it all (hey, no shame here. You want to invite me over for dinner, be prepared for one hungry man) and for just five euros (lettuce, a whole tomatoe, hard boiled egg, tuna, ham, beets, onions, white asparagus and carrots. Delicious. Can't wait to try octopus again.

    The day really turned out to be very nice. I've been blessed with fantastic weather and I hope it continues, but just in case, my rain pants and 'gators are quickly available.

    Dinner was right on time. Enjoyed it with a gentleman from Scotland, one from Germany and one from Israel. Good vegetarian dinner. Will be hunting for meat tomorrow.
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    Akhir trip
    30 Oktober 2017