My Camino

September - October 2017
A 39-day adventure by Dan and Arlene
  • 39footprints
  • 3countries
  • 39days
  • 211photos
  • 0videos
  • 4.7kmiles
  • 4.1kmiles
  • Day 11

    Puente la Reina to Estella

    October 2, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Had a pretty good dinner last night and a typical Spanish breakfast. The day started out cloudy, but turned sunny as the day progressed. Beautiful scenery and I especially like the arched bridges. Romanesq I would say, but do not depend on my spelling.

    Walking was not easy given the terrain. Someone must have placed rocks sharp side up just to keep the podiatrists in business. Walked up hill into one village only to walk down hill to leave and at the very top of the walk, through an arch was a doctors office. Probably specialized in the heart and available for pilgrims having a heart attack.

    The first albergue I went to in Estella was closed for the season, so wondered around and found this one (not exactly sure of the name, but there are plenty of tired pilgrims here).

    Laundry in the dryer and hopefully it will be dry in 40 minutes. If not, back on the line.

    Tomorrow is a 13 to 14 miler so I need a good pilgrims dinner tonight
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  • Day 12

    Estella to Los Arcos - 13.4 miles

    October 3, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Wow, a short day and somewhat easy.

    Last night I met a lady from New Zealand that recently celebrated her 50 wedding anniversary and she wanted to walk the Camino to prove to herself that she could it without her hubby doing all the planning. She was doing well. Will also mention that she is a shrink.

    For dinner I had paella with seafood, like shrimp and clams. Shrimp here are not like what we get at home. These had the heads, tails and shell, and legs still attached. Very small and over cooked so I picked through them and ate most of the rice and peas. Main course was pork tenderloin and chips with mellon for dessert.

    When I got up, a couple of the Spaniards were singing and I said "no bueno, no bueno", then in english, "that is horrible singing". We all had a good laugh.

    The laundry was dry so packed all and left as the sun was rising.

    The first pic is leaving the city looking back into it.

    The day started off cool, but a slight uphill generated enough heat to make things comfortable. After a fashion, the Camino split with the shorter path to the left. As I was about to take the shorter way, a local said take the longer way as it was flatter. Hey, my mama didn't raise any fools so the longer way for me.

    Saw a few folks from prior days, met a young man from Ecquidor and we chatted for aways until he stopped for a rest. Had coffee and a potatoe quiche at a bar, then continued towards Los Arcos arriving around 1. Room, dinner and breakfast, and laundry for 23 euros.

    I'm relaxing in the kitchen having a beer so happy trails to all of you. Tomorrow is a 17 miler so the rest of the day my feet are up!
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  • Day 13

    Los Arcos to Logrono - 17 + miles

    October 4, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Last night I enjoyed a group dinner in the albergue. Folks from Canada, Australia, Croatia, Atlanta, GA and me. Meal consisted of a salad, some sort of a pea soup, and dessert. Of course there was wine and bread. Still hungry.

    One thing I've learned is that the up hills are followed by nice downhills, or when life gets tough, be patient and things get better.

    I am glad to say that Spanish kittens enjoy having their head and neck scratched as much as American kittens. Almost put one little guy in my pack to bring home.

    Most left before I did as it was a long day, but most of the walk was of mild assents and descents. A couple of the climbs I thought I was going to scrape my nose on the gravel in front of me (steep climbs).

    Met a young girl from Tiawan and all total I guess about 20 countries so far. I'll save the philosophical comments for near the end of my walk, but am thinking about my experiences.

    Nice cool morning and made good time until the sun heated things up, then I slowed down a bit. Gorgeous scenery once again with the vinyards on both sides of the trail and the leaves changing color. Great weather and I hope it continues.

    Had a break at a seasonal cafe and as I looked in my backpack for a goodie or two, I was hoping that my leprechaun would have something good...and I found five chocolate covered mini donuts. Gotta say that they were the best damn donuts I've had in a long time. Great with a cafe con leche.

    Longrono is a large city (155, 000) and I am staying close to the heart of the restaurant area. Passed by a couple of ice cream shops, tempting, but decided it would mess up my dinner so I got four yogurts from a mercado and ate them all after a potatoe dish and a cold beer.

    Tomorrow will be a shorter day. Schedule calls for 18 miles, but will cut that in half so I am not so tired.
    Enjoy the pics.
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  • Day 14

    Longrono to Ventosa 12 miles

    October 5, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    I had to look at the guide book to determine where I am. Been walking too long.

    First pic is the group that I enjoyed dinner with last night. Normally the Spanish do not eat before 8 PM and we were chased from one restaurant, the Drunken Duck, only to find a restaurant that was willing to break with tradition, feed six pilgrims early and make money. Eleven euros each for a three course meal, water and a very good wine. Yummy. Will do that again.

    Private room was nice and I enjoyed the quiet.

    The morning was chilly, but after three large chocolate donuts, I was ready for anything. Ran into one of the Australian folks from day one and we had a mid morning snack, then it was pointed out to me olive trees, walnut and almond trees, and grape vnes. Grapes were very sweet and I had to explain how to clean them before chewing them (swish them around the mouth and spit out the dirty salave before chewing the grapes). Works every time. Learned that from a comic strip when I was a child.

    Today was an easier day for me...and I enjoyed it. Needed to do some laundry and relax. Tomorrow will be more milage, but not sure how much.

    Sunrise was looking over my shoulder at the industrial area of Logrono so decided to not take pics. Walked through parks, ducking sprinkler water to stay dry, then open countryside and finding the turnoff for Ventosa. Had lunch, laundry is done and drying on the line so I should smell nice in the am.

    Note the bull, the church (beautiful ), and the sign in front of the wine making facility.

    More stories to tell, but will wait.
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  • Day 15

    Ventosa to San Domingo - 18+miles

    October 6, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Hope today's mileage is the longest I'll walk as my dogs are tired.

    Left in the dark, but had the light of a full moon to guide me. Used the headlight a few times, it was impossible to see the yellow arrows as Ventosa is in the country. Believe it or not, but smaller than Old Fort by a wide margin. Seemed as if I was walking in a rock bottomed gully for a good half mile before it leveled out.

    The sunrise surprised me. I turned around and there it was...blazing away and I'm thinking that the temp is going up quickly, but I was fortunate that the clouds and breeze kept the temps down so it was a delightful walk.

    Ran into a couple of folks from prior days, had a cafe con leche with some donuts, and kept going. Also enjoyed seeing a fellow pilgrim with his mule doing the Camino.

    Arrived in San Domingo and the first place I tried (hostel) was full so I walked to the municipal albergue and got a bunk in a room of 20+. Had a great lunch of a chicken sandwich and a beer, looked around some, then decided that I really needed to sit down and capture my thoughts.

    Early dinner tonight and rest.
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  • Day 16

    Santo Domingo to Belorado - 22 km

    October 7, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    It was quite chilly this morning, frost on the pumpkin and I could have used more clothing. Glad I kept the throw-a-way plaid shirt as it came in quite helpful.

    Think I'm getting the hang of the camino and have learned that my pack is now a permanent part of me. Will sleep with it on one day soon I'm sure.

    Anyway, when I arrive at the albergue and check in, I then stake out my bed and check out the shower facilities to determine if I need to bring the suction cup hangers and how much clothing. Some have no hooks, some have hooks inside the shower facility, but everything gets soaked during the brief shower. Some only permit 5 minutes so one must be quick.

    Once that is done and it's a wash day, a race for the sinks to handwash, then hang on the lines. Always a battle for the sunshine.

    Lunch is next and whatever I can get will suffice.

    Dinner is at 8 pm (but that varies if I am at a place that caters to the pilgrims like today).

    Lights out at 10, up at 6 or so and the days walk begins.

    Best part of the day is coffee at a cafe after walking for an hour or two. This morning I ate a couple of chocolate donuts I purchased at a mercado yesterday. They got me going and an apple after coffee was enough to tide me over until I arrived at the albergue where I got a fabulous lunch consisting of a hugh salad, fried eggs and ham, flan for desert and all chased down with wine. Yummy, now for dinner!

    My walk was quite pretty today and the hills were moderate so I am thankful for an easier day with the terrain. Area appears to be somewhat arid, but perhaps they are not having a lot of rain right now.

    Laundry is in the washer and will put in the dryer soon. While waiting for the laundry, I met a couple from Scotland. They use a Spanish company to book reservations and transport their baggage and walk a week or so each year. A nice way to approach the Camino as age gets the best of all of us. Also shared a beer with a couple from Delaware that I met in Madrid. Retired young and traveling as much as possible.

    The sign is interesting as I have over 500 km to walk, and the sign shows all the communities I'll pass through on my way to la Laguna de Castillo with well over 155 km left to Santiago de Compostilla. Lots of walking yet.

    If you are interested in how far I've walked, the challenge will be to check out the web and add it up. That I ain't gonna do 'cause I do not want to know. :)

    PS: Find Pinguins lets me add 6 pics each day so you are getting the best.
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  • Day 17

    Belorado - San Juan de Ortega - 15 miles

    October 8, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Weather said it was 45 this morning so I put on my fur lined kitchen sink that I always carry in my pack. Felt really nice too.

    Wanted a bite of breakfast and the sign said open at 0700 but they were late. Finally, I had a slice of cake, coffee , and juice. Ready to go.

    Good walking early and I enjoyed the cool temperatures so I made good time for a couple of hours. After reaching Villafranca, the trail changed and the direction was up hill through a gully with plenty of potatoes and eggs to stumble around on. Up hill for the next forever until we reached a service road that must service the wind turbines. Saw a bunch and they do not put these things in valleys so it was a climb.

    Ran into a lady from New Zealand at a cafe and we chatted about marathons until time to move on.

    Shortly thereafter the trail was in the woods with no cafés and more rock. Anyway, I arrived in de Ortega, found a nice room and am relaxing. Lunch was the biggest bocadillo I've seen...must have used the entire loaf. Doubt I'll have much for dinner as that thing was huge.

    Thinking about a trail name. Folks that hike the Application Trail use them as it retains a bit of privacy so I'm thinking about "whiskers " as my trail name. Thoughts and recommendations are welcome.

    Pictures are of a church (I think) in the side of a hill, a long view down the road to de Ortega, a temporary café in the woods (she was nice to me...gave me a piece of watermelon for a donation, and took my pic for her Facebook page), the pajaro cafe (pajaro means bird in Spanish so where is this going?), part of the interior of the church in de Ortega, and a really weird painting at a rest stop. Go figure.

    Enjoy, and feedback on my trail name , por favor.

    PS - if you have any questions about my travels, let me know.
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  • Day 18

    De Ortega to Burgos - 16.2 miles

    October 9, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Weather app indicated it was 39 F this morning. Another cold snap and hope it warms up more.

    Left in the dark, but with the light of a full moon to guide my way. Crossed three cattle gates and had a very nice walk until I reached an uphill, the only bad one on this part of the Camino, and I was teleported to the moon to walk on moon rocks. Take a look at the first pic and you will understand.

    As I approached Burgos, I had to walk around an airfield in the sun which was ok, but then I walked through a small community on the outskirts, then through a park that would never end. Finally reached the city and no idea where I would stay, but I saw a Camino travel business, walked in and asked for help with accommodations . Very nice man helped me, called a hostel and found a room for two nights. Had some difficulty with his directions, but got here, checked in, cleaned up, headed out for a drug store for ibuprofen and a laundromat. Got it all done and my clothes really smell nice. A very nice Spanish woman helped me with the washing machines and we conversed for a bit. We both spoke broken English and my small amount of Spanish enabled me to do what I needed to do.

    Back at the room, I am enjoying some snacks I got at the mercado and will have dinner later.

    The second pic is of a sheep correll and glad those little guys were penned up in the early am. Also enjoyed coffee twice enrout as well as two pan ah chocolates (I will admit that the French spelling is beyond me at present).

    The third pic is a bridge where I saw several pilgrims soaking their feet. As it had warmed quite a bit from the early am I was tempted, but waited to soak in the shower. Had an apple later in the park.

    Thinking about Grampa Bear as my trail handle so what do you think?

    Oh yes, I've grown tired of the beard as it looks too scraggly so got a razor and shaving cream at the mercado and will get rid of it before visiting the cathedral tomorrow.

    The Camino offers many short courses in life and we just need to be aware to learn from it. Kindness, charity and understanding as well as preservearance, independence and determination. There are many more and as many reasons to walk the Camino as there are Pilgrims wanting to walk it.

    More tomorrow as I need to take a short nap.

    Naps over, I had dinner and noticed the children playing in the park at 1930. Place is quite busy on a work night. Also some graffiti can be quite pretty as the attached suggests.
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  • Day 19

    Burgos to Burgos - rest day

    October 10, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Ahhh, sleeping in is heavenly. Well, all things are relative as I got up at 0630, but that is sleeping in for me.

    Took out the razor and became a respectable looking American in Burgos and for visiting the cathedral.

    A busy city with wide sidewalks and many, many small shops and places to grab a coffee and snack. Right now I'm sitting on a shaded walk having just consumed a bocadillo with a coffee. I can really get used to this lifestyle.

    There are numerous statues around town that I need more Spanish to understand, but pretty typical of any large city with as much history as Burgos.

    The cathedral was spectatular and building began in 1220 or so. It replaced a smaller cathedral on the same construction site per the museum in the bottom of the structure.

    The audio tour (in English) provided much historical detail...more than I could absorb, but provided the religious individuals that played a part in the cathedrals' history. I need to add that the interior was spectatular with all the smaller chapels that surrounded the main sanctuary, the wood carvings, the reliefs, the gilding, the ceilings and the architecture itself. Too much to capture in pictures, but I've attached a few of the better ones.

    Small world. As I was finishing this, I looked up and there was Jim, the Canadian that was in the picture I took having dinner in Longrono. We chatted and he treated to a second coffee so I am totally charged.

    Many street vendors along the river and I found some gummy candy that I could not resist. Also stopped by the mercado for breakfast food. Tomorrow is only a 12 miler, but might as well fuel up before leaving.

    Just rerurned from dinner consisting of a smoked fish salad and a beer. Dad's walking and pushing baby carriages, older men doing the same (grandchildren I assume, but could be wrong), and all seemed to be having a wonderful evening out and about in this moderate autumn weather. I truly feel blessed to have this opportunity.

    Tomorrow is another day and until then...
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  • Day 20

    Burgos - Hornillos del Camino - 13 miles

    October 11, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Up early and decided it was just too dark to try and find the yellow arrows that would lead me out of town so relaxed and enjoyed my breakfast - a banana and a sweet roll purchased yesterday.

    I did leave in the dark (got ansy), walked with an Italian for several miles and we helped each other find the directional arrows. Twice we had to ask as the direction was not at all clear. Es este el Camino? We stayed on track.

    Had a coffee in a small village as well as a neopolitan (chocolate pastry). It's amazing how great those things are after a few miles of walking.

    This was the beginning of the Meseta, the desert portion of the country. Not a lot to see but miles of rock and dirt. Local farmers must grow winter crops here as it does rain, but not now. Dirt looked very dry and the rocks were white. Spain must be the most rocky country around as the fields are just full if them, but even more on the Camino.

    A couple of long range pictures of the terrain with one looking into the town where I am spending the night. Expand the second picture for more pilgrims in the distance.

    I mentioned the challenge of finding the yellow arrows, but one location made it quite obvious. Biggest yellow arrow in Spain (well, perhaps not the biggest, but impossible to miss).

    I enjoy seeing the various bits of decoration on the buildings, etc. that are Camino related. In Hornillos the main albergue has a very attractive mural that caught my eye.

    Had a bocadillo at a cafe across the street from where I am staying and a beer for lunch. This will last until tomorrow, perhaps longer. They do know how to use up what we would consider stale bread, but when hungry, it cannot be beaten.

    Got an early am picture of the cathedral from the rear of it. Yesterday I approached it from the river and could not get a decent shot.

    This was a short walk today, but I recall when walking 13 miles was an ordeal, but not anymore. A couple of guys were walking with their dogs. Not sure whether man or beast was more tired.

    Dinner was with a Canadian, a South Korean, an Irishman, and a young man from Poland. The restaurant even had live music. This is what generates good memories.
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