• Family of Four
November 2019

Osaka and Tokyo 2019

The far flung family of four
Are gallivanting once more.
They seek an Autumn leaves show
In Osaka and Tokyo.
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  • Beginn der Reise
    14. November 2019

    Arrivals Begins

    14. November 2019 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    A new adventure awaits the Family of Four.

    It begins in Osaka.

    Super Mario and his friends greet arriving visitors, a warm welcome to Kansai Airport.

    After reading several pages of a novel, Mom and Dad's plane arrived. Soon enough we found ourselves enjoying an afternoon tea, with some Japanese style burgers.

    We made our way, via the airport railway station, to Eeyan Tourist Café. The Government of Osaka stipulates that visitors who avail AirBnB style accommodations (minpaku) must enter into a contract with hosts. Tourist cafés are a venue for such transactions.

    After finally locating our accommodation (the station exit lift was not close) and leaving our luggage, we then checked out a local Mendokoro Torano-o restaurant. We ordered a milky ramen and some Tofu with minced meat. Mmmm.

    Konnichiwa Japan! We missed you. ❤️
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  • Daughter Has Landed

    15. November 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Slivers of daylight pierced the tiny space between the curtains. Where was I? Oh yes, beneath the doona, to keep warm. It was 8°C outside. Still groggy, I checked Messenger to see how my sister's travel was going.

    She arrives today.

    After finalising meet-up plans, I fell asleep again.

    I woke up once more to the sound of beeping noise from the kitchen. My parents needed help with the heating element to cook some breakfast.

    To fetch my sister, I walked for about 15 mins on a breezy 16°C day. It was refreshing. I passed the venue of the concert that we would be attending tomorrow. Through the glass panelled entrance, one could catch a glimpse of the reception area - it had posters of Japanese artists who have performed there.

    I then went underground to get to the train station. Like in Hongkong or Singapore, the connecting underground walkways to the stations are full of shops and restaurants. Very busy and full of delicious smells and interesting merchandises.

    I had my camera ready to welcome my sister.

    When we got back to the unit, we enjoyed some scrumptious Fuji apples, juicy persimmon and a little rest. Afterwards, we had a walk around our neighbourhood. We were impressed to see mothers on bicycles equipped with chairs for their kids.

    We saw an avocado coloured pedestrian overpass. There were two young girls playing rock, paper, scissors, with the winner getting to advance up one step. We all delighted in watching them. They looked so happy and content - not a care about the woes of the world.

    By twilight, the temperature had dropped. We decided to have dinner at Family Host. My sister and I had Omu Rice with demi-glazed sauce, Dad had some beef curry and mom had grilled swordfish. We all enjoyed our dishes. To further celebrate our reunion, we had some Azuki Anmitsu and Marron Mont Blanc Parfait. A truly sweet indulgence for a sweet reunion.

    We got back to our unit with our bellies and hearts full.
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  • Let's Go! The Weather's Fine!

    16. November 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    For breakfast, we had boiled eggs and sweet potatoes, with some canned mackerel and tuna bathed in sumptuous, umami-rich sauces.

    We decided that we had to make use of the sunny conditions and explore Osaka Castle as there were showers forecast in the coming days.

    We set off but, unfortunately, we were hungry again by the time we got to the station near Osaka Castle. McDonald's for lunch. Quick and easy so we could get on with the touring. We got served by a fellow Filipina and she helped us through the ordering process with a big smile. The Teriyaki burger is amazing! We chose a side of fresh salad. We also tried the chocolate-filled pie that was not offered back in our respective countries. It was ooey-gooey bliss.
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  • Osaka Castle

    16. November 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We were pleased that the "koyo" (autumn leaves) were approaching their peak around Osaka Castle. The moat was lined with russet and orange coloured trees. As we walked towards the castle we noticed this little vehicle that played a distinctive tune that, once heard, was difficult to get out of your head. This vehicle carried people, interested to be off their feet, to and from the Castle grounds.

    We took plenty of photos of the Osaka Castle. When we were satisfied with our 'groupfie,' my sister and I entered the Osaka History Museum and learned about Hideyoshi Toyotomi. He was the founder of the Osaka Castle, and he almost united the nation at some stage. Dad declined to join us as he had previously seen it on a business trip 20 years ago and Mom opted to stay with him.

    We saw some interesting miniature dioramas that featured slices of Hideyoshi Toyotomi's life. To my amazement, the dioramas featured moving holograms of people within them which made the scenes lifelike. There was a spectacular vantage point at the top of the castle with sweeping panoramic views of Osaka - a cornucopia of autumn hues.

    We reconvened with Mom and Dad and strolled for a few more pictures, including some romantic couple shots to fan the flames of their passion, for each other and for life.
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  • A Concert in Namba Hatch

    16. November 2019 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    We made our way to Namba City Parks so Mom and Dad could meet up with her friend. Then my sister and I had some sandwiches on the go as we battled through the after work pedestrian traffic to get to Namba Hatch, the venue or our concert. Note: the concert from which this whole trip was conceived.

    When we arrived, there was an enormous crowd milling on an open-air balcony. We were overwhelmed and confused and hot from our rushed commute. We only had minutes to spare, we did not know why they were outside, and we had to get through them to find the ticket booth. I felt panicked that we were in the wrong place as I had purchased seated tickets and I assumed these crowd were for the free standing area. The few signs were small and written in Japanese, and the staff were only prompting people in Japanese as well. It was truly stressful and I felt my heart pounding, but God had mercy. We spotted the small booth where we could redeem our tickets that I've purchased online months ago.

    We got the tickets! A quick queue to get our souvenir packs and glow stick pens and we were on our way to the auditorium. Everything was going to be ok. Then a lady halted our progression and asked us to pay ¥600 for some drink vouchers. We said we didn't need any and I had some water with me. She said "yoi have to" and she had an uncompromising look. My sister and I felt both annoyed that it was compulsory, and rushed by the mounting queue behind us.

    Next there was the cloakroom but we bypassed this, opting to keep our bags with us. We scaled the escalator, and passed by the drinks bar where we begrudgingly redeemed our vouchers (¥600 x 2!!!). We followed the flow of the crowd next to the drinks bar before realising they were at the door for the free standing section. Where were we supposed to go for our seats? We tried a set of stairs and were greatly relieved when an usher appeared and took us to our seats.

    Finally, it was time to settle down and take in our surroundings. We realised that the bottom section was full of standing people. You couldn't drop a needle amongst that packed crowd.

    The screen above the stage began to show a point of view of a camera underwater facing the glare of the sun, muddled by ripples and waves. This was accompanied by the sounds of undersea creatures and gurgling bubbles. We recognised these as part of the opening sequence of the Chrono Cross video game. We felt our tensions easing. The ordeal was behind us. We noticed musical instruments laid out on the stage, both the traditional and exotic ones like accordion, Japanese flute and drums, and also a marimba to name a few.

    It did not take long for the concert to start. Yasunori Mitsuda... in person... on stage! There was a huge applause and gleeful cheers. He was on the keyboard and together with the band they started to play the intro music of the game. He then addressed the crowd and riled everyone's spirits, thanking the enormous turn up especially the crowd in the standing section just below him. Then he and the Millenial Fair Band continued on with playing the tracks.

    It was fun watching the crowd downstairs fist pumping and jumping in place, they had high, party energy, and the band was fuelling them - they enjoyed doing solo performances as they cheered on each other, the rock guitarists and the flutist also jumping up and down the stage at times.

    The performance culminates when the band plays the final boss battle theme. In the game, to defeat the Time Devourer, the player has to correctly cast spells in a specific order. Each spell has a corresponding colour and musical note. They then asked the audience to lift up their glowstick if it was the colour required. I got a red one, my sister had a blue. Everyone was delighted and making oohs and ahhs sounds as Yasunori explained the mechanics.

    However they made it seem like they played the wrong note and music order and so the guitarists had to play the 'game over' tune which made the crowd laugh. They did this about two more times until they finally played the right tunes.

    With all the glowsticks finally alight, the scene where Princess Schala is freed from the clutches of Lavos played on screen and suddenly there was tinsel confetti falling everywhere, catching the light and sparkling. It was a magical moment.

    The band then played Radical Dreamers, an endearing song about lost love and a dream of reunion. The crowd gave them such resounding applause that they had to perform an encore.

    And then it was over.

    On the way out we received a plastic bag containing some photos of the Chrono Cross characters wearing concert clothes and having a musical instrument. Before leaving the venue, my sister and I took a selfie with the event's standee.

    We walked back to Namba Parks and briefly met mom's friends. They said they had a wonderful time catching up. Instead of walking back all the way to our accommodation, we took the train to Sakuragawa station. We stopped by a nearby convenience store and got some microwave dinner.

    Over our supper we talked about the concert and the catch up that happened simultaneously. We also opened the Frozen Flame souvenir that my sister got from the event.

    We found out that we clocked about 22000 steps that day. Our feet were sore but we surely had a memorable time.
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  • St Mary's Cathedral

    17. November 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    What does 22000 steps do to one's body?

    It certainly makes one feel sore the next day. Hmm...perhaps the younger folk will not feel the same way.

    Our day started with boiled sweet potatoes, canned sardines and pork infused with the ever moreish sauce.

    During this time we searched online for a local Mass in English. God was bountiful - St Mary's Cathedral offered one. We also searched for illuminations (Christmas lights display) near Dotonburi, a food and shopping mecca we hoped to visit later in the evening.

    On the way to church we passed by Naniwanomiyato Park. Plenty of families enjoying the open space. We saw an old akita dog being tenderly cradled by a middle aged Japanese woman, who then laid it carefully in a baby's stroller. We were all touched by this. There were a social group with dogs, some individuals reading their book, some relaxing in their made-up hammock and some others having a meal, conversing or playing games with their kids.

    The church was full of Filipinos, the priest included. He talked about the signs of the times. He was saying that although the world as we know it WILL end five hundred years from now, we should not be apathetic and consider doing our part to preserve it for future generations. His manner was patriarchal and his message fatalistic. We were hoping for something uplifting to celebrate our reunion.

    We all agreed that somehow their Hostia had a scrumptious flavour and we wouldn't mind going back to the end of the line and have another sampling. Perhaps some umami had found its way into the preparation. Mom thought of bringing some home to give to our close family friend, who is also a clergyman.
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  • Illuminations Appreciation

    17. November 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We then made our way to Grand Front Osaka, a large shopping centre. This involved battling through a sea of black and white clad salarymen (and women), as well as numerous culturally diverse tourists. It was tricky navigating through them in the huge, interconnected network of underground walkways.

    In Grand Front Osaka, we selected Cafe Muji as our venue for dinner. It operated like IKEA's café, where people had to select their meals from the display window and then take their trays back to their claimed seat. We were thoroughly delighted with their meal selections. I had crumbed fried mackerel, my sister and Dad had some fried chicken, whereas Mom had chicken and kale hamburger patty.

    We then went to check out the mall's Christmas Tree display. It paled in comparison to the Christmas Trees back home. It did not look as impressive as the photo featured in Osaka's Illuminations magazine article.

    We then strolled along the Midosuji Illuminations on the way to the Osaka City Hall. At first we passed through blue-lit trees, then a champagne gold grove and then a mix of sakura pink and more blue. After taking some pictures with the "Welcome to Osaka" sign, we took a train to Namba, then exited to Dotonburi.
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  • Delicious Dotonburi

    17. November 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    We all agreed that Dotonburi was like Osaka's New York Times Square, or Tokyo's Shinjuku. It was full of neon lights. According to a magazine article, Osaka is Japan's kitchen, and one must try to eat until you are either bankrupt or too full to continue. That's our kind of challenge.

    So we had some Takoyaki (whose shop played a very catchy tune while we queued) and later on some sticky rice balls. These were enveloped with sweet soy sauce and coated with either roasted rice powder or matcha powder. My preference was absolute--the roasted rice powder coating elevated this delicacy above the rest. We also saw plenty of quirky signs in the establishments' attempts to catch the interest of passing visitors.

    We decided to take the train home. As we neared our accommodation, I thought I caught a scent that reminded me of woodfire or burning charcoal - something that reminded me of Lola Soteng. It was an out of place aroma in a highly urbanised area where everything was electronic. So I knew that she was watching over us on this trip.

    We enjoyed our evening cuppa whilst debriefing before turning in for the night. Turns out we clocked in about 16000 steps this day.
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  • Fushimi Inari Taisha

    18. November 2019 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    This was our earliest start so far for this trip, as we wanted to make full use of our Kansai Thru Pass.

    Weather forecast predicted rain and it would turn out to be the warmest day of our visit. We selected appropriate clothing and brought umbrellas, making our bags heavier. Despite that, we were unfazed and looked forward to seeing what Kyoto had to offer.

    We eagerly boarded the train as soon as the exiting passengers alighted. However we were asked to exit and... when the doors opened again... the seats had swiveled to face in the new direction of travel. Remarkable!

    When we arrived at Fushimi Inari station, we were inundated in a sea of people. Young and old alike and people of all races had flocked to see the Senbon Torii with its many splendid gates.

    After we safely crossed the railway tracks, we had some delicious dango (this time cooked over a vibrating non-stick cooking utensil) on our way to the Shrine. This sticky rice was thick, but the crowds were even thicker when we finally reached the Shrine grounds. The street was filled with foodstalls, each offering unique delicacies and freshly cooked treats that filled our nostrils with delight.

    We did Temizu (purified ourselves) by the Chozuya (Shinto water ablution pavilion) before proceeding up into the Shrine. This was optional.

    After we took some snapshots by the main gates, we were inadvertently separated into two groups. Because there were heaps of people, it became impossible for us to locate each other.

    My sister and I went into a part of the Shrine where we rang a bell and clapped our hands twice, before bowing in earnest hope for our intentions to come true. We said in jest that perhaps we should have wished to find our parents amidst the sea of bobbing heads.

    We finally reunited up by the entrance to the Torii gates. We then segued to the nearby small bamboo grove, knowing we would not be able to visit Arashiyama's bigger version due to time constraints. It was almost other-worldly to find a secluded spot amongst so many tourists. Thank you to the blogger who shared this valuable information.

    After that, we got to witness a pre-nuptial photo shoot of a couple in traditional Japanese clothing. We all noticed how much in-love they were, the man with his shy smile, and the woman who was very sweet and tender. On the other hand, we observed that the surrounding foliage was only starting to transition to their autumn colours.

    On our way back to the station, we had some meat-covered rice for lunch. I was surprised at how the meat was actually lean, yet substantial. Mine was flavoured with seasoned-cod mayonnaise. Mmm, it was phenomenal.

    Finally, Mom and I strolled by the river to take some photos of her trees with their vibrant autumn foliage.
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  • Ninenzaka

    18. November 2019 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    On the way to Ninenzaka, we walked past Ishibe-koji alley. It was like being transported back in time. They have implemented a no-photography rule in this area, although there were still some photo-shoot going on. We guessed that they obtained some sort of permit.

    After we had a bathroom break, we heard a flute playing over where the rickshaw operators were on standby. Not far in the distance we saw a man in Shinto priest outfit walking towards us and alongside him, a trusty furry companion with four legs. Later on we found out he was Samurai Dog Masamune. This internet celebrity has his own social media presence. He clearly enjoyed the attention garnered from all the tourists. For ¥100, one can get an adorable postcard featuring this unlikely duo.

    Ninenzaka path was like a river flowing with tourists, ending the illusion of time travelling. There was however a relaxed vibe emanating from the crowd. Perhaps people found solace in this preserved and yet modernised street. Unfortunately the 'historic Japanese-style' Starbucks was full.

    We passed by Yasaka Pagoda on the way out. It is a forty six metre tall pagoda with graceful, sloping roofs on each of its five tiers. A very iconic structure in the middle of this old Kyoto neighbourhood.

    By this time it is twilight, and the prediction of showers at 5pm had indeed come to fruition. Luckily we had umbrellas and Mom and Dad had waterproof garments, so we remained dry for our walk back to the station.

    As this station was crowded with tourists all heading back to Osaka, we hopped onto an outbound train and secured our seats two stations ahead of the crowd. Were we not the clever travelers! I wrote my travel journal with great difficulty as the train offered lulling motions to which we all succumbed effortlessly.

    Upon arrival in Namba, we had dinner in Zen. We had some grilled saba fish with nikujaga, a very comforting, home cooked-type of meal after a big day of exploration.

    When we got back to our accommodation in Sakuragawa, we planned for our trip the next day. We deliberated between Nara and Himeji. One website said the autumn foliage transitioned in Himeji area a week earlier than Kyoto/Nara area and so we based our decision on this before turning in for the night.
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  • Beauty and History

    19. November 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    As a cooler day was expected and Himeji Castle is romanticised as the "White Heron Castle," we chose somewhat formal and warm clothing.

    We managed to try a new train line, this time heading west of Osaka. It was a clear day outside and there was a lingering breeze.

    It was a two-hour train ride to Himeji. We only had to change train once. Passing through Kobe, my sister and I fantasised about eating some Kobe beef there someday. It was a quiet trip, and we did not notice any other tourists taking this route (usually they will take the 30 minute JR service instead), and so we felt like we are part of the locals.

    Upon arriving at Sanyo-Himeji station, we crossed the street and in the distance there stood the White Egret Castle, another moniker for this landmark. We entered the Ekimae Flower Road (a shopping centre) and followed the signs towards the World Heritage Site.

    The mall had an open plan design and high ceilings with a central strip of skylighting. It was energy efficient architecture at its best. Plenty of shops and cafés with a very relaxed vibe. At Dotour, we enjoyed our afternoon tea of matcha and sandwiches and calzones.

    When we exited the open mall, we were greeted by gingko trees bursting with yellow leaves. The main street leading to the white castle was lined by these majestic trees. Also, we noticed the sun was at the perfect angle, striking the pristine, ivory coloured structure, making it a perfect subject for photography.

    When we entered the grounds, we further appreciated the castle's grandeur. We chose to pose for our family portrait next to a gingko tree in full autumnal mode. This was was also selected as a backdrop for a local high school's class picture and many more tourists did the same thing. However, there were not nearly as much tourists as there were in Fushimi-Inari or Ninenzaka.

    My sister and Dad continued on to tour the paid section of the castle grounds that would also allow them to inspect and tour the six floors of the Himeji Castle. Apparently, everything inside was made of wood, and fully preserved. They were asked to leave their shoes upon entering so as not to tarnish the flooring, Dad observed a miasma akin to damp rags engulfing their nostrils. My sister observed some young Japanese males appreciating the racks where weapons had been kept many many years ago.

    Meanwhile, Mom and I went on to visit Kokoen Gardens. Between history and beauty, we chose the latter to make full use of the waning sunlight. The array of colours were spectacular and, as expected, mom squealed with elation as we wandered the gardens. It was maintained in top condition.

    We took photos to our hearts' content during the golden hour, and not long after, there was a professional photo-shoot near the koi pond. Dad and Sis managed to arrive just in time for the last intake of visitors - there had been so much to see in and around the castle grounds. They were excited to tell us all about what they found and what had piqued their interests.

    It was well and truly twilight as we made our way back to the train station. We passed by Isomaru Suisan Himeji Miyukidori, and Mom saw the grilled fish by their doorway, and the decision was made. Dad had some tuna sashimi with rice, my sister had some fried mackerel, and I had some pasta with cream sauce and roe eggs. For beverages, my sister had the Mikabi Mikan sour and I had some Pineapple sour to complement our meals.

    Because Sanyo-Himeji was the terminal station, we were able to comfortably select our seats for our trip back to Osaka. Two hours and forty minutes went by quickly. Unfortunately the train did not stop at Sakuragawa, so we had to take a different train back to our station. It had been such a very nice day that this did not faze us.
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  • At the Speed of a Shinkansen

    20. November 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    The following day, we reserved our bullet train tickets on the Google app called Smart EX.

    After we had our breakfast, we finalised our packing and cleaned up the unit. We later received a message of thanks from the AirBnB host. Apparently we left the apartment in a pristine state.

    It was a cloudy day outside, with some intermittent bouts of sunshine forecasted.

    We obtained some obligatory photos with our accommodation prior to leaving.

    At Shin-Osaka station, my sister redeemed our tickets from the machines with the Smart EX logo. It was a smooth process. We then had a quick lunch at Starbucks. Plenty of salarymen and women having their lunch breaks. People engaging in conversations, doing their studies or doing some reading. I sat by the window watched the people passing by. Some were rushed, others were relaxed, others were waiting for their travel companions.

    We had a groupfie by the entrance gates and held up the pedestrian traffic. Plenty of people but they were all very patient and understanding.

    We observed how the inside of the station looked like an airport terminal. But like everything else in Japan, despite the amount of people, it was orderly.

    The anticipation was mounting. We had all seen the Shinkansen a few times before (in media), but there is something truly exciting knowing we will be able to ride it soon.

    The train traveled at the maximum speed of 185 mph. It was like an in-flight service, with an attendant offering hot and cold drinks. It was very interesting to note that whenever staff changes in-between carriages, they turn to face the guests and do a slight bow. Respect.

    Mount Fuji was passed by. Unfortunately there was a thick cloud blanketing the area and we could not see anything, so we did not feel as bad that we were seated on the wrong side of the train.

    It was windy and cloudy when we arrived in Tokyo. The sun was setting and the temperature was dropping. Fortunately our host picked us up from the train station. Taka must have waited for a while as we struggled to locate where we must meet him.

    We were warmly welcomed despite the windy weather. There were two taxis reserved to accommodate our luggage. Mom and I were surprised when the taxi driver replied to her in Filipino. She asked if there was snow coming to Tokyo, to which he replied, "hindi pa, " (not yet). He revealed that his wife was a Filipina.

    Our host oriented us to the amenities and garbage disposal and check out procedures, while offering us some snacks. He also explained about the transportation, food and shops nearby.

    We rested and put our legs up while deciding what to have for dinner. In the brochure of one of the local malls, I came across a photo of Hinai Chicken Oyakodon with a little snippet of what it is. We all wanted to try it.

    Akihabara was much more relaxed than when my sister and I visited it for the first time three years ago. Akihabara UDX, a shopping centre, was already lined with Illuminations ready for the Christmas season.

    Hinai Chicken Oyakodon was a real treat. The chicken was moist and tender and had a deep, smoky finish. This was complemented with egg and soy with delicate seasoning laid on top of perfectly steamed rice. It was simple and yet very memorable. They say that Hinai chicken is slow raised, resulting in its signature tender yet chewy texture. It was so highly prized that they used to offer them to shogun warlords.

    We dropped by the nearby grocery store to purchase some breakfast items. I saw a Hershey's chocolate cereals while looking for Dad's oatmeal. My sister bought a Haagen Dazs ice cream sandwich. Mom and Sis also bought some daifuqu (a fish shaped pastry filled with sweet bean filling) just around the corner from our accommodation.

    Before we turned in for the night, we took our family silhouette portrait with the Tokyo Skytree in the distance. And like the instructions on our window, we admired it quietly as it gleamed.
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  • Zen Breathing

    21. November 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    This morning, Tokyo Skytree was backdropped with an endless cerulean blue.

    Perhaps due to the travel yesterday, we were all feeling tired. So we rested up after breakfast. We just took it easy, letting the sun warm us up as its rays climbed through the windows. Our Zen Breathing workshop was not until after lunch time.

    We passed by Meikei Dori on the way to the train station. It was a small street that featured Europeanesque architecture.

    When we arrived at Yoyogi Station, we revived at a juice booth. Mom had been enjoying the persimmons abundant in the grocery shops and so she was curious to try it in shake form. It did not disappoint with a pleasant, mild piquancy. Next to the shop there was a food stall selling sweet and savoury pastries. Mom and Dad bought some.

    After a few minutes walk, we finally arrived at our AirBnB experience host's studio. Yuki gave us a warm welcome, full of smile. Instantly we were all at ease. She started the session with casual introductions. She shared her health status and her health history. She then asked each of us of our expectations from the experience and if we had any health related woes.

    Zen Breathing is diaphragmatic breathing - the way in which all humans first breathe. Unfortunately the society and modern science promulgates the opposite. To unlearn chest breathing and relearn diaphragmatic breathing is definitely easier said than done. As Yuki worked on our deficits with proper posture and belly breathing, we began to feel a slight difference. Although I felt a slight discomfort. Maybe it is awareness of dormant muscles now being used.

    By the end of the workshop, it felt like we just finished a relaxed catch up with a tomodachi (friend). Yuki then prepared matcha accompanied by Japanese sweets. She allowed us to whisk our own tea with the traditional bamboo chasen. Then she instructed us to have one sweet treat each prior to sipping the slightly frothed green tea. This way, its bitterness was made more palatable.

    Later she took out an origami-like globe and asked us to affix a pin to represent the cities where we live. Seeing pins in three different locations, she clapped with delight. Usually her guests come from only one location. And to add to her excitement, my sister was the very first Canadian to attend her workshop.

    Yuki gave us warm hugs when it was time for goodbye.

    We then tried to locate Yoyogi Park to capture some Autumn foliage, however it got too dark and the walk was unexpectedly long, so we ended up taking the train back to our side of the city.

    From the train station we tried to explore Matsuzakaya Mall to look for a place for dinner. They only had expensive, fine dining restaurants which did not appeal to us. We headed back down to the street level and walked towards KFC near another train station.

    We all ordered the same dish - breaded teriyaki chicken with crispy noodles and steamed white rice sprinkled with Nori on top. Despite the Japanese flavours, the chicken still had the distinct KFC goodness. We all thoroughly enjoyed its uniqueness.

    My sister then quickly made her way back to the mall as she found out online that Morozoff had a stall there (it was the purveyor of sweet treats to be given to loved ones during Valentine's day). She wanted to try their cheesecake.

    She only managed to buy a chocolate and a custard pudding as the cheesecakes were sold out as early as 2pm. But still, there was a hint of joy in our stride as we sauntered back to our unit.

    Along the way, we passed by this café called Dean and Deluca and they offered some Hoji and Marron latte that I could not resist. It was a beautiful, warming drink on this cool night, the chestnut flavour as well as the light green tea were married well.

    Arriving in our home in Tokyo, we were satiated and relaxed and hoped that Yuki's belly breathing will ensure we don't gain extra pounds as she promised while we enjoyed some pudding. They were both extremely delightful, not too rich or sweet, but just right. Meanwhile, the Skytree shone in the distance with the clouds already starting to amass.
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  • My Sister's Birthday

    22. November 2019 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

    My sister woke up to warm hugs and kisses from us. It is always wonderful to be able to celebrate a special occasion with all of us together. Outside, it was a rainy day as expected. The clouds hung low, and there was a fine mist of shower. We bade Skytree good morning. It was there, albeit a shadow overlooking Tokyo due to the compromised visibility.

    Over breakfast, my sister mentioned that she wanted to visit a church that was established in 1874 on the very same date that she was born. It was called the Old Cathedral of St Joseph, otherwise known as Tsukiji Church to the locals. Apparently it is the oldest Catholic church in Tokyo and considered to be a cultural asset. We looked it up online for directions, and the snapshot of the church piqued our interest - its facade featured Corinthian columns.

    Our accommodation hosts provided clear plastic umbrellas that were ubiquitous in Japan. Equipped with them, we braved the rain and the winds and traveled on two train lines, before facing more wind and rain. Alas, to our disappointment, the church was under construction and tarpaulins and renovation signs obscured any good view of the facade. We ended up visiting the parish hall next to it. We had a quiet time to say our prayers of thanks for my sister's birthday and for this opportunity to spend time with each other.

    Then we pressed on against the rain and the cold once more. After we passed through St Luke's hospital, we saw a Tully's Cafe. It was only 11am but we thought of how the crowds usually gather at almost every Tokyo eatery by midday, and so we decided to stop there for an early lunch.

    It is our custom for a birthday celebrant to have noodles or pasta for long life. And so we all selected pasta dishes to join in wishing my sister longevity and prosperity. It was a Café attached to the research centre of St Luke's, and so there were plenty of books in the reading lounge. We thought we saw some academics among the crowd. Watching the rain through high glass ceilings created the perfect ambience.

    While eating we tried to think of a good way to spend the day indoors. We decided that a trip to TeamLab Borderless would be perfect. It was an extensive collection of 3d light art installations located close to where we were. It is one of the top attractions in Tokyo.

    The Yurikamome train line services the area where we needed to get to. It is mostly above ground, and so we got to see more of the rain and wind enveloping the artificial island called Odaiba as we approached our destination. About half an hour later, we arrived in VenusFort.

    It looked exactly as it had been three years ago. Across this shopping mall stood the Giant Sky Wheel in Palette Town. Beside that was the TeamLab Borderless.
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  • Inside teamLab Borderless

    22. November 2019 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

    Friday early afternoon and there was a long queue. One line for purchasing tickets and then another for admission.The purchasing was very efficient, it was all done through a touch screen panel operable in a multitude of languages. Before admittance, you have the option of leaving your items in the locker room. We left our umbrellas there and we thought we locked it the wrong way, but we will seek help upon exiting.

    The holding room was orderly despite being packed. On a couple of TV screens they played a video of what to expect inside and the do's and dont's. It advised that it will be dark, but a fun, sensorial experience.

    When the time came, we were ushered into a dark corridor and then we were faced with three options. We turned right towards Butterfly Garden. And then a butterfly made entirely of light passed us by. Soon there were three of them, and then more, and then they led us to this field of flowers produced by dozens and dozens of projectors in the ceiling. There was ethereal music playing in the background (possibly a glockenspiel) that enhanced the sense of wonder.

    The visitors busily enjoyed posing for selfies/groupfies. Every room offered a different vista: there was one with waterfalls, whales, geckos, kids on a slide with light trails, and even a room giving visitors a chance to manipulate projected flowing water by touching it. There were also some giant lamps, a room of mirrors and poles with crystals and a room with a laser light show, thick mist and house music.

    For the room filled with lanterns, there was almost a half an hour queue. Good thing it was close to a resting area. We were able to let Mom and Dad rest while we lined up. It was interesting how efficiently the TeamLab crew handled the crowd. After all that waiting, we only had four minutes inside the art installation but it was a good photographic experience.
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  • Dinner in Venusfort

    22. November 2019 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

    We were ready to look for a place to have early dinner. We made our way back to the Megaweb Toyota City Showcase. There we were amazed with the future of vehicles. A passionate lady showcased what they have planned. Toyota has developed the technology to use hydrogen as a power source. Once ready, there will be a drastic cut to carbon emissions. However this technology will not be rolled out until around 2027.

    Back in VenusFort, we once more enjoyed the Venetian style interior. Up in the food court, we could still remember where we had sat to eat three years ago. When our food arrived, we also remembered just how lacklustre it had been three years ago. Moving on for dessert, I had some soy soft serve ice cream (I had the red bean, Dad had black sesame seed) whilst my sister went to another shop for bubble tea. As we ate, we enjoyed the spectacle of tourists posing for pics in front of a nearby fountain, light and music show that played on loop.

    There was less rain and wind on our way back to our accommodation and we were grateful for it. We were hoping to buy the cheesecake from a shop just a stone's throw away from our accommodation but unfortunately it was closed.

    We said our usual "tadaima," when we got home and changed to our slippers prior to entering the house. We watched a news program dubbed in English and saw the reports on preparations for The Pope's visit to Hiroshima and Nagasaki and then to Tokyo. Also they reported that tomorrow would be Labor Thanksgiving Public Holiday. Apparently kids will be giving gratitude cards to firemen, policemen and the likes. The program also highlighted the ongoing ceremonies that Japan's new Emperor has completed and those that were still to come.
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  • Into the Unknown

    23. November 2019 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Another rainy day as per forecast. Tokyo Skytree remained covered by a light veil of white. Over breakfast we planned what time we were going to catch Frozen 2, otherwise known in Japan as "Anna and the Snow Queen 2." There was a local cinema nearby in Parco Ya Shopping Mall.

    From last night's news we knew that today was Labor Thanksgiving Day. I secretly wished we could run into some kids giving gratitude cards to a policeman so I could capture it on camera, but unfortunately it was just a rainy day.

    My sister and I checked to see if Tante Marie Patisserie was open for her belated birthday cake but alas, its opening hours have been affected by the public holiday. We left our host's clear umbrella by the door to let it drip while we quickly went upstairs to fetch Mom and Dad. When we got back down, the umbrella was gone. Granted we have been too complacent, but we never thought such thievery exists here. Later on our host said not to worry about the umbrella and he did not make us pay for it.

    Unfortunately the cinema had no online booking facility. So the 3pm session was already fully booked when we got there just after lunch time. We selected the 6:30pm session instead.

    We decided to just relax in this mall and not get wet anymore. My sister thought of a great way to ensure that she can get her hands on some Morozoff cheesecake before it sells out--to buy some now! And so off she went, and since the store was just downstairs she returned with the sweet bounty in a jiffy.

    There were some restaurants just a floor below. After conducting a visual survey, my sister and I decided to replicate our "cook your own beef patty" experience three years ago. We settled in Hokkaido Kuro Maru, while Mom and Dad had lunch in Toriryouri Teppanyaki Kashiwa. Our restaurant must be good as people queued up for it. Soon, my sister and I thoroughly enjoyed our flavourful beef patty with a side of chicken in cream sauce and with rice and salad.

    After being filled, we checked the department store downstairs to pass the time. Dad and I saw fashionable and functional warm jackets that cost a fortune and we just smiled at the price tags. Mom had excitedly found a bag that she can use for her upcoming high school reunion. It had the perfect colour to match their motif. It was lightweight too despite looking quite sturdy. My sister found a very warm infinity shawl that will definitely prove its worth on her return to the Great White North.

    Uniqlo Ueno was close by, but we still had to use the umbrellas to get there. The store was packed. Here we found more warmers.

    We took a shortcut across a seafood shop to avoid going through the rain and were surprised by the variety of their offerings, from fish to mollusks.

    We came back in plenty of time for the movie. We were still full from our big late lunch so we skipped the snacks bar.

    The cinema was impressive and super comfortable. The screen size was almost like an IMAX theatre. Also, the spaces between the rows of seats were strategically planned - even if you slouched, you would not see the heads of the people in front of you. And we even noticed umbrella holders behind the seats.

    It was delightful to see the character growth in Elsa and Anna and the rest of the gang. The songs were memorable too.

    After the film, we opted to pass by 7-Eleven to get dinner. My sister got herself Neapolitan pasta, whereas I had Yakisoba, Dad had some pork with soup and noodles and Mom had a rice and fish dish. Finally, we completed our meal with some cheesecake that survived all the traveling.

    Outside, the Skytree continued to beam transcendent light, each flash momentary, but beautiful. Like our trip, almost coming to an end.
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  • Franciscan Chapel and Ichiran

    24. November 2019 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Today marks my Mom and Dad's last full day with us. The thought hung heavy over us as we looked at Tokyo Skytree. We realised it was not raining anymore. Even though the sun was hiding behind the clouds, we were determined to make the most of the overcast day.

    Over breakfast we planned our church visit to the Franciscan Chapel Center, Japan’s only English-language Roman Catholic parish. I had proposed that we have some Ichiran Ramen right after mass and then visit Koishikawa Korakuen Gardens. It did not take a lot of convincing.

    Despite being cloudy, the forecast said no rain. My sister and I decided not to bring umbrella as we trusted the Japanese meteorologists implicitly. One evening while we were in Osaka, the Weather Bureau had predicted rain, even adding a countdown that read "slight showers in __ minutes." And their timing was spot on. Just another reason to be amazed with Japan.

    The Mass was already starting when we arrived at the Franciscan Chapel Center. It was filled with Filipinos. The priest was of advanced age, and endearing. He was sharing his life experiences with good humour. We marveled at the stained glass windows as well as the wooden floor boards.

    When the mass ended we saw two Pinays looking for something on the ground. Apparently one of them lost a pearl earring that was gifted by their boss and they were worried that the boss would be upset. They further revealed that this had already happened once but luckily the earring was found that time. Unfortunately their luck ran out this time.

    Out on the church grounds there was a group of Pinoys discussing where they will have lunch. Good thing they did not mention Ichiran, otherwise the restaurant would have been too packed.

    At Ichiran we shared the lift with one of the staff members. She directed us to the machine where we are to order prior to entering the restaurant. There was no one there and so we were able to comfortably select our choices.

    The menu was foreigner friendly, it had pictures and English counterparts to the Japanese text. We ordered the classic Tonkotsu ramen and then some special house made vinegar sauce. Afterwards you have to slot in the cash and coin payments and out comes ticket stubs to be redeemed inside.

    Once settled, the attending staff member received our ticket stubs and then gave us a form to fully customise our ramen experience--from the noodle texture, to the richness of the broth and how spicy you would like it to be.

    While waiting we then took notice of the set up of the restaurant. We were in our own cubicles, and though seated next to each other there is a wooden divider on our sides. There was a signage there that encourages people to focus and enjoy the food and to remember that another serving of noodles is free.

    When the food arrived, the attendant drew down the bamboo blinds, facilitating intimacy with your bowl of Tonkotsu Ramen. We took a groupfie and then we delved into our food, enjoying the broth and the noodles and the perfect, thin slices of pork. My sister and I also thoroughly enjoyed the house-made vinegar sauce. We both thought it went well with the pork flavour of the ramen.

    When we exited, we noted the long queue outside the establishment. We noticed the same thing happening at the Takoyaki place in Osaka, as well as in the cáfe just the other day. We joked that perhaps we were a money cat phenomenon--attracting customers and money for others but not for ourselves.

    The sun continued to hide behind thick clouds. We sought assistance from a very friendly local guide for directions to Koishikawa Korakuen Gardens. On the way there, we passed a pedestrian overpass that required a groupfie due to its unique structure. It was like four separate overpasses that had been interconnected.
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  • Koishikawa Korakuen Gardens

    24. November 2019 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    The gardens were next to a baseball field. We saw high school kids practising and we could hear plenty of enthusiastic cheers. We also saw tourist buses parked along the street and we hoped that the gardens wouldn't be as full as Ninenzaka Path in Kyoto.

    When it was time to purchase entry tickets, Mom and Dad availed senior discount rates. Already we could see some tourists by the entrance. When we walked inside and got to the clearing, we breathed a sigh of relief as it was spacious and the amount of people were nowhere near what we experienced in Kyoto.

    There were a plenty of trees exhibiting autumn hues. There was a huge, man-made lake in the middle with big fish bobbing their heads up. They also had a 'Japanese traditional' Café that overlooked a smaller pond but this was full of guests at the time of our visit. There were families, groups of tourists, enjoying the scenery and spending time with each other. There were lovers too in some less trodden areas.

    After our groupfies, Mom and Dad made their way to an area where they can take more photos by the lake, whereas my sister and I made our way to the stream with pebbles and boulders, closer to the red bridge. We tried to capture the mood and looked pensive as we took turns taking photos of ourselves amidst this overcast setting. At the top of the hill there was a couple politely chatting to each other and from there we saw Mom and Dad enjoying their scenery by the lake.

    It was dark when we finally left the gardens. The baseball practice across the road was still ongoing. We wondered what time they would finish as it was a school day again tomorrow.

    We took the train back to Akihabara. We noticed that this train line (Toei) goes deeper underground than the other train lines. You need to go down about 4 sets of lengthy escalators. Amazingly, there were bright LED lights on the subway platform that made it seem like there was daylight, helping anyone with claustrophobia or any related anxieties. Also there were birdsounds in their subway. Looking more into this, they say that they are for visually impaired people.--it lets them know where the stairs or escalators for the exits are. Wow!
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  • Akihabara UDX and Don Quijote

    24. November 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    On the way to Akihabara UDX, my sister purchased a huge bottle of Yakult -- a probiotic drink that has become ubiquitous back home and became one of our childhood drinks. When we arrived at our destination, we went to the food court, where once more we were faced with the electronic ordering counters. Our training earlier with Ichiran Ramen was still fresh in our minds. Unfortunately the meals were merely food to fill the tummy and relieve hunger, nothing exciting to write home about.

    We then made our way to the nearby Don Quijote. It's a multi story discount shop where one can find just about anything. My Mom and sister purchased some luggage bags, I got mom a perfume, my sister and I got some vintage ume wine. Naturally our shopping cart were full of Kitkat chocolates with unique Japanese flavours that are different from the last time we visited Tokyo. We also found some cheesecake flavoured baked biscuits.

    When we got back to our accommodation, we immediately tried some of the baked cheesecake biscuit and we were delighted at how moreish it was! Mom begged for a whole box that she can pack away and for my sister and I to just return to Don Quijote tomorrow to get another one. We all laughed and of course yielded to this request.

    After Mom and Dad finished their packing, we opened a bottle of vintage ume wine. We toasted our trip, acknowledging our blessing that we got to enjoy each other's company. We remembered our dear Lola who recently passed, but we knew how much she enjoyed hearing about our stories of previous trips. We hoped for another opportunity to travel again altogether someday soon.

    Quietly, the Tokyo Skytree bore witness to the Family of Four's final night together, flashing its myriad of colours.
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  • Send-Off

    25. November 2019 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Morning came and there was a light shower surrounding Tokyo. It was as if the heavens were empathising. It is that time of our journey again when goodbyes must be said.

    Mom and Dad have completed their packing last night. It was just a few more things to be stored away, so it was a smooth sailing morning.

    We had our final breakfast together for this trip. We had some of the left overs of the bread and eggs we accumulated over the past few days. We talked about the trip and Dad was very grateful for the opportunity to have his cardio rehab in Osaka and Tokyo. We all had a laugh.

    When we were ready, we booked our Uber ride. My sister and I assisted Mom and Dad with their luggage. Our ride arrived just as we exited the lobby. Our driver greeted us and gave us a smile before assisting with the luggage.

    It was a quick trip to Ueno station where we will catch the train to the airport.

    There was a queue in the ticketing counters. We bought tickets from the machine booths instead, but found out that we still had to line up in the manned counter to obtain seating reservation. Later on, my sister and I found out that we could have requested a Tokyo day trip pass that you can avail once you purchased a Keisei Skyliner fare. Something to remember for the future.

    The train was comfortable, with blue upholstery. The view outside transitioned from the densely populated central Tokyo, full of multi-story buildings and large billboards, to the suburbs, where modern and traditional houses line the train tracks, to the countryside, where there were rice farms and tree groves with some autumn trees.

    On our way up to the terminal we saw these luggage carts, and near the escalators there was a huge sign that said "Cart OK!" We were skeptical at first, but then looking at the cart design we understood that it did look like it was going to be alright. We put Mom and Dad's luggage in the cart and instead of taking the elevators, with a queue of passengers, we headed to the escalators with a sense of adventure. As they said, taking the cart along WAS ok.

    After finding out what counter Philippine Airline flights were checking people in, we made our way there. There was a long queue and we noticed they were checking in two different flights, one for Manila, the other bound for Cebu. My sister and I then sat down in one corner, waiting for Mom and Dad to call us so we can help them hoist their luggage up into the weighing scale /conveyor belt.

    After checking-in, we went to the next floor to select a quick bite for a light lunch. We saw a food stall serving packed sushi. We purchased a packet, and then looking around, we couldn't find anywhere to sit and enjoy it. We decided to go back near their check-in counters again as it was quiet there.

    As we shared our final meal together in this trip, we noticed it was no longer raining outside, but still cloudy. Finally, when the last morsel was had and we had our sips of fluid, we stood up and said our goodbyes. We parted full of hope for our next adventure and took comfort from the wonderful new memories we have just made.
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  • Yanaka Ginza

    25. November 2019 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    When my sister and I got our bearings back, we deliberated on whether we should try the famous Totoro Cream Puffs or head directly to Yanaka Ginza where cats are purportedly roaming freely and are part of their community. We decided that to fully enjoy what's left of the daylight, we go straight to Neko town.

    Unfortunately the train we boarded stops on all stations. At first, we enjoyed the views as it passed by the countryside residential areas different from the route of the express service we took on the way to the airport. We noticed the sun was actually out and the clouds have parted. We saw multiple houses with some persimmons in their backyard, Mom enjoyed their slight piquancy and juicy sweetness that she coveted a persimmon picking photo-op. Perhaps next time. Over time, we realised how the train stations looked too similar.

    Good thing we bought along the mobile Wi-Fi that our AirBnB host has provided so we were able to look up in the internet how we could switch to a faster train back to the city. We were very elated when we finally arrived at Nippori station.

    Yanaka Ginza had a relaxed vibe set amidst a preserved old part of Tokyo. It most certainly did not have the feel of a heavily burdened tourist attraction. There was a small Cafe with locals catching up with the latest gossip. There were boutique shops of snacks and delicacies, and we also passed by one that sold jewellery and my sister got a pair of cherry blossom inspired earrings which looked quite unique. Nearby was a seafood shop and there was an elderly woman attending to what appears to be a patron as they shared an extended chat. Thankfully the scant amount of tourists did not hamper the local life to unfold.

    Further down the street we saw a little establishment with a queue. We got intrigued, and on closer look we were enthralled by the smells of barbecued chicken and liver in skewers. Apparently they were using an original recipe that are decades old and hails from their hometown. And it was delicious! Moist meat and the marinade was flavoursome - with balanced sweetness and saltiness.

    We still haven't seen any cats. Internet posts said we should keep an eye out for them as locals offer them food and water. We reached the end of the alley and it opened to a street. We decided to start walking back to Nippori station. Just across the barbecue shop we noticed trays of bento with a variety of options with chicken or fish or beef or pork and sides. The meticulousness of how they've arranged the items was quite exquisite. The price was also very affordable. A perfect solution for our dinner tonight.

    Before leaving Yanaka Ginza, we passed by a shop that sold Marron (chestnut) biscuits, a flavour which is sweet and nutty at the same time. We also passed by a shop that sold Taro puffs - it was dangerously scrumptious and we could not stop eating it!

    We saw a few more cat statues, but no real neko. At this stage, it was well and truly dusk. We checked out the cemetery and we only saw tombstones and tree lined avenues full of shadows. We departed immediately and headed back to the station.
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  • Bentos, Cheesecakes & Edge of Tomorrow

    25. November 2019 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    When we got to Akihabara, my sister stopped by Pablo's for a treat (it is a tart shop).

    For a moment we thought maybe, just maybe, "Weathering with You," the sensational new movie from Makoto Shinkai might still be showing in some cinemas, but after scouring the internet for movie sessions, unfortunately, no cinema was exhibiting English subtitles.

    We moved on from our disappointment from our brilliant idea and decided to drop by Don Qiujote and replenish my sister's stock of cheesecake biscuits that Mom took.

    The sky started spitting once more as we walked back to our accommodation. But lo and behold, Tante Marie Patisserie stood like a lighthouse and the wet bitumen glistened - brightly lit display glass cabinets that beckoned us to come in.

    They had a selection of dainty fruit and sponge cakes, however we were after serious business. We have already read about their highly recommended cheesecakes. We purchased a slice of Camembert as well as a slice of walnut, honey and Gorgonzola. We could not hide the twinkle in our eyes full of anticipation.

    We throughly enjoyed our bento and cheesecakes while watching Tom Cruise and Emily Blunt's 'Edge of Tomorrow'. We were amused at how many times Tom Cruise perished in that film. But all in all it was a nice adaptation of a Japanese light novel called 'All You Need is Kill'. A great way to end our short cultural immersion.

    After packing our luggages, my sister and I took some long exposure shots of the Tokyo Skytree before turning in for the night.
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  • Narita and Taoyuan

    26. November 2019 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

    We woke up to another cloudy day. We bade goodbye to Tokyo Skytree desu for the last time. It stood quietly as the rest of the city went on about its daily business. And then we started finalising our luggage preparations.

    We managed to pack as much as we could before sleeping last night, but there were a few more items to be stored away this morning. We ate as much of the leftovers as we could to limit the waste.

    After we've tidied the place up, we took selfies with the Pikachu stuff toy that they had. We also took a photo of their smiling sponge. We also bade goodbye to Roomba, the trusty robot vacuum.

    It felt like it was a faster process to get to the airport this time as we knew exactly how to obtain our train passes. As we zoomed past the familiar terrain, we thoroughly enjoyed more of the taro puffs that we've put on our hand carry bag. When we got to the airport, we still used a cart but since there was not a queue in the elevator, we opted to use that instead.

    After finding the aisle where our check-in counter was situated, a lady directed us to utilise the self check-in machines, however it did not accept my sister's passport for some reason. The team were very accommodating and soon we were being attended to by their personnel. They ensured that my sister and I were seated together and that our luggage were directed accordingly to our final destinations.

    After we completed the security checks, we were then welcomed by the duty free section. There were plenty of delicacies. Some free samples being handed out to try. Before we knew it, we had Butter Butler goodies in our hands. And lo and behold, in the next section, my eyes gleamed as there stood a shelf filled with Le Tao cheesecakes.

    Le Tao cheesecakes are double layered: one is baked and fluffy, and the other is unbaked, slightly more dense and creamier. Together, the textures combine and create a serving of heaven in your mouth. But to our surprise, they were offering a new flavour this time - melon. There was no hesitation, we bought one and we were determined to enjoy it later tonight during our layover in Taiwan. It was heartbreaking that their packaging only allows four hours of travel time, otherwise we would also have brought some to take to our final destinations. The lady who assisted us was delighted at our enthusiasm and excitement.

    Narita airport Terminal 1 gate lounges featured high ceiling with large infinity glass windows and we enjoyed watching passing planes and resting on the super comfortable lounge chairs.

    Soon enough we were all boarded and ready to go. My sister and I chose a film to watch together, but because we have separate screen panels in front of us, to our amusement, we had to make sure we press the play button in sync.

    We chose the film Shazam - a film that had been more of a time-filler rather than a true source of enjoyment, but not regrettable. Thankfully our in-flight meals were delightful.

    We had about four hours of layover in Taoyuan airport. Our first agenda was to get our free massage on automated chairs. Thankfully where our gate exit was, there were plenty of empty massage chairs amidst an artificial bamboo grove. We got two tokens each from the nearby tourist counter inside a shop. Each token worth 15 mins of bliss. As we utilised our second token, we were joined by another pair of travellers, but because they were seated far away, I still managed to continue quietly whimpering in delight as my knots were worked on.

    The relaxing half-an-hour went by in a flash. Afterwards, my sister was planning to get more of the cloth sunglasses cases that she had bought from there once before as gifts to some of her friends. This shop was close to where a renowned braised beef noodle restaurant was located.

    The braised beef broth was absolutely divine, so much so that I must have closed my eyes on my first sip. It was rich yet delicate at the same time. Unfortunately we had to ensure we had enough room for dessert as the melon flavoured double fromage cheesecake is almost fully defrosted and ready for consumption and so we only shared a bowl. We also tried their Mango jelly dessert which was not worth writing home about. We noticed there were a few fellow Filipinos eating there as well and enjoying their bowlful of goodness prior to their own flights.

    We then decided to burn off the noodle snack with more walking around. By this time we already had a picture with Hello Kitty in her shop, and then we found some more Sanrio characters all set-up and ready for having their photos taken with travellers posing for selfies.

    We then made our way close to our boarding gates. We saw a lounge, filled with orchids, devoid of people, so we took the opportunity to set ourselves up there and prepare for the ultimate experience of this trip - to envelope our taste buds in a sensation that only LeTAO cheesecakes can offer, and this time, with a hint of melon.

    There was a thrill of anticipation as we unboxed the cake. Finally, there laid bare in front of our eyes a familiar golden yellow, circular piece of beauty that came all the way from Otaru.

    After a few selfies with the cake, as an act of ultimate kindness to ourselves, we have allowed our plastic forks to deliver a tantalising morsel of the cheesecake into our mouths. My eyeballs rolled and my eyelids slowly shut and I released a whimper of ecstasy. The base which is baked, lighter part of the cheesecake hits the tongue first, and as you push it up against the hard palate, the moist, non-baked part suddenly fills the whole mouth with flavours of light creaminess and delicate cheese and then the hint of melon ties it all wondrously, leaving you wanting more.

    And we did have more. Until there was none left to be had.

    Of course, in between each mouthful, my sister and I would attempt conversation while marveling at the flavours. We were evaluating our time in Japan and patting ourselves at the back and thanking Our Good Lord for the opportunity. We also spoke about the young entrepreneur whose passion for Patisserie and wanting to make something big out of his hometown in Otaru has led to the creation of LeTAO and maybe someday we could visit it.

    My boarding time was about an hour earlier than my sister's. After the memorable time in the orchid lounge, my heart was full of gratitude but at the same time, ached--it was parting time again.

    And so, within a hug and a kiss we captured the breadth of our childhood dreams along with our recent memories of Japan and drew them all close to our hearts. We looked to the future full of hope as we made our farewell. Until next time.
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    Ende der Reise
    26. November 2019