Osaka and Tokyo 2019

November 2019
The far flung family of four
Are gallivanting once more.
They seek an Autumn leaves show
In Osaka and Tokyo.
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  • Day 1

    Arrivals Begins

    November 14, 2019 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    A new adventure awaits the Family of Four.

    It begins in Osaka.

    Super Mario and his friends greet arriving visitors, a warm welcome to Kansai Airport.

    After reading several pages of a novel, Mom and Dad's plane arrived. Soon enough we found ourselves enjoying an afternoon tea, with some Japanese style burgers.

    We made our way, via the airport railway station, to Eeyan Tourist Café. The Government of Osaka stipulates that visitors who avail AirBnB style accommodations (minpaku) must enter into a contract with hosts. Tourist cafés are a venue for such transactions.

    After finally locating our accommodation (the station exit lift was not close) and leaving our luggage, we then checked out a local Mendokoro Torano-o restaurant. We ordered a milky ramen and some Tofu with minced meat. Mmmm.

    Konnichiwa Japan! We missed you. ❤️
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  • Day 2

    Daughter Has Landed

    November 15, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Slivers of daylight pierced the tiny space between the curtains. Where was I? Oh yes, beneath the doona, to keep warm. It was 8°C outside. Still groggy, I checked Messenger to see how my sister's travel was going.

    She arrives today.

    After finalising meet-up plans, I fell asleep again.

    I woke up once more to the sound of beeping noise from the kitchen. My parents needed help with the heating element to cook some breakfast.

    To fetch my sister, I walked for about 15 mins on a breezy 16°C day. It was refreshing. I passed the venue of the concert that we would be attending tomorrow. Through the glass panelled entrance, one could catch a glimpse of the reception area - it had posters of Japanese artists who have performed there.

    I then went underground to get to the train station. Like in Hongkong or Singapore, the connecting underground walkways to the stations are full of shops and restaurants. Very busy and full of delicious smells and interesting merchandises.

    I had my camera ready to welcome my sister.

    When we got back to the unit, we enjoyed some scrumptious Fuji apples, juicy persimmon and a little rest. Afterwards, we had a walk around our neighbourhood. We were impressed to see mothers on bicycles equipped with chairs for their kids.

    We saw an avocado coloured pedestrian overpass. There were two young girls playing rock, paper, scissors, with the winner getting to advance up one step. We all delighted in watching them. They looked so happy and content - not a care about the woes of the world.

    By twilight, the temperature had dropped. We decided to have dinner at Family Host. My sister and I had Omu Rice with demi-glazed sauce, Dad had some beef curry and mom had grilled swordfish. We all enjoyed our dishes. To further celebrate our reunion, we had some Azuki Anmitsu and Marron Mont Blanc Parfait. A truly sweet indulgence for a sweet reunion.

    We got back to our unit with our bellies and hearts full.
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  • Day 3

    Let's Go! The Weather's Fine!

    November 16, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    For breakfast, we had boiled eggs and sweet potatoes, with some canned mackerel and tuna bathed in sumptuous, umami-rich sauces.

    We decided that we had to make use of the sunny conditions and explore Osaka Castle as there were showers forecast in the coming days.

    We set off but, unfortunately, we were hungry again by the time we got to the station near Osaka Castle. McDonald's for lunch. Quick and easy so we could get on with the touring. We got served by a fellow Filipina and she helped us through the ordering process with a big smile. The Teriyaki burger is amazing! We chose a side of fresh salad. We also tried the chocolate-filled pie that was not offered back in our respective countries. It was ooey-gooey bliss.
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  • Day 3

    Osaka Castle

    November 16, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We were pleased that the "koyo" (autumn leaves) were approaching their peak around Osaka Castle. The moat was lined with russet and orange coloured trees. As we walked towards the castle we noticed this little vehicle that played a distinctive tune that, once heard, was difficult to get out of your head. This vehicle carried people, interested to be off their feet, to and from the Castle grounds.

    We took plenty of photos of the Osaka Castle. When we were satisfied with our 'groupfie,' my sister and I entered the Osaka History Museum and learned about Hideyoshi Toyotomi. He was the founder of the Osaka Castle, and he almost united the nation at some stage. Dad declined to join us as he had previously seen it on a business trip 20 years ago and Mom opted to stay with him.

    We saw some interesting miniature dioramas that featured slices of Hideyoshi Toyotomi's life. To my amazement, the dioramas featured moving holograms of people within them which made the scenes lifelike. There was a spectacular vantage point at the top of the castle with sweeping panoramic views of Osaka - a cornucopia of autumn hues.

    We reconvened with Mom and Dad and strolled for a few more pictures, including some romantic couple shots to fan the flames of their passion, for each other and for life.
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  • Day 3

    A Concert in Namba Hatch

    November 16, 2019 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    We made our way to Namba City Parks so Mom and Dad could meet up with her friend. Then my sister and I had some sandwiches on the go as we battled through the after work pedestrian traffic to get to Namba Hatch, the venue or our concert. Note: the concert from which this whole trip was conceived.

    When we arrived, there was an enormous crowd milling on an open-air balcony. We were overwhelmed and confused and hot from our rushed commute. We only had minutes to spare, we did not know why they were outside, and we had to get through them to find the ticket booth. I felt panicked that we were in the wrong place as I had purchased seated tickets and I assumed these crowd were for the free standing area. The few signs were small and written in Japanese, and the staff were only prompting people in Japanese as well. It was truly stressful and I felt my heart pounding, but God had mercy. We spotted the small booth where we could redeem our tickets that I've purchased online months ago.

    We got the tickets! A quick queue to get our souvenir packs and glow stick pens and we were on our way to the auditorium. Everything was going to be ok. Then a lady halted our progression and asked us to pay ¥600 for some drink vouchers. We said we didn't need any and I had some water with me. She said "yoi have to" and she had an uncompromising look. My sister and I felt both annoyed that it was compulsory, and rushed by the mounting queue behind us.

    Next there was the cloakroom but we bypassed this, opting to keep our bags with us. We scaled the escalator, and passed by the drinks bar where we begrudgingly redeemed our vouchers (¥600 x 2!!!). We followed the flow of the crowd next to the drinks bar before realising they were at the door for the free standing section. Where were we supposed to go for our seats? We tried a set of stairs and were greatly relieved when an usher appeared and took us to our seats.

    Finally, it was time to settle down and take in our surroundings. We realised that the bottom section was full of standing people. You couldn't drop a needle amongst that packed crowd.

    The screen above the stage began to show a point of view of a camera underwater facing the glare of the sun, muddled by ripples and waves. This was accompanied by the sounds of undersea creatures and gurgling bubbles. We recognised these as part of the opening sequence of the Chrono Cross video game. We felt our tensions easing. The ordeal was behind us. We noticed musical instruments laid out on the stage, both the traditional and exotic ones like accordion, Japanese flute and drums, and also a marimba to name a few.

    It did not take long for the concert to start. Yasunori Mitsuda... in person... on stage! There was a huge applause and gleeful cheers. He was on the keyboard and together with the band they started to play the intro music of the game. He then addressed the crowd and riled everyone's spirits, thanking the enormous turn up especially the crowd in the standing section just below him. Then he and the Millenial Fair Band continued on with playing the tracks.

    It was fun watching the crowd downstairs fist pumping and jumping in place, they had high, party energy, and the band was fuelling them - they enjoyed doing solo performances as they cheered on each other, the rock guitarists and the flutist also jumping up and down the stage at times.

    The performance culminates when the band plays the final boss battle theme. In the game, to defeat the Time Devourer, the player has to correctly cast spells in a specific order. Each spell has a corresponding colour and musical note. They then asked the audience to lift up their glowstick if it was the colour required. I got a red one, my sister had a blue. Everyone was delighted and making oohs and ahhs sounds as Yasunori explained the mechanics.

    However they made it seem like they played the wrong note and music order and so the guitarists had to play the 'game over' tune which made the crowd laugh. They did this about two more times until they finally played the right tunes.

    With all the glowsticks finally alight, the scene where Princess Schala is freed from the clutches of Lavos played on screen and suddenly there was tinsel confetti falling everywhere, catching the light and sparkling. It was a magical moment.

    The band then played Radical Dreamers, an endearing song about lost love and a dream of reunion. The crowd gave them such resounding applause that they had to perform an encore.

    And then it was over.

    On the way out we received a plastic bag containing some photos of the Chrono Cross characters wearing concert clothes and having a musical instrument. Before leaving the venue, my sister and I took a selfie with the event's standee.

    We walked back to Namba Parks and briefly met mom's friends. They said they had a wonderful time catching up. Instead of walking back all the way to our accommodation, we took the train to Sakuragawa station. We stopped by a nearby convenience store and got some microwave dinner.

    Over our supper we talked about the concert and the catch up that happened simultaneously. We also opened the Frozen Flame souvenir that my sister got from the event.

    We found out that we clocked about 22000 steps that day. Our feet were sore but we surely had a memorable time.
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  • Day 4

    St Mary's Cathedral

    November 17, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    What does 22000 steps do to one's body?

    It certainly makes one feel sore the next day. Hmm...perhaps the younger folk will not feel the same way.

    Our day started with boiled sweet potatoes, canned sardines and pork infused with the ever moreish sauce.

    During this time we searched online for a local Mass in English. God was bountiful - St Mary's Cathedral offered one. We also searched for illuminations (Christmas lights display) near Dotonburi, a food and shopping mecca we hoped to visit later in the evening.

    On the way to church we passed by Naniwanomiyato Park. Plenty of families enjoying the open space. We saw an old akita dog being tenderly cradled by a middle aged Japanese woman, who then laid it carefully in a baby's stroller. We were all touched by this. There were a social group with dogs, some individuals reading their book, some relaxing in their made-up hammock and some others having a meal, conversing or playing games with their kids.

    The church was full of Filipinos, the priest included. He talked about the signs of the times. He was saying that although the world as we know it WILL end five hundred years from now, we should not be apathetic and consider doing our part to preserve it for future generations. His manner was patriarchal and his message fatalistic. We were hoping for something uplifting to celebrate our reunion.

    We all agreed that somehow their Hostia had a scrumptious flavour and we wouldn't mind going back to the end of the line and have another sampling. Perhaps some umami had found its way into the preparation. Mom thought of bringing some home to give to our close family friend, who is also a clergyman.
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  • Day 4

    Illuminations Appreciation

    November 17, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We then made our way to Grand Front Osaka, a large shopping centre. This involved battling through a sea of black and white clad salarymen (and women), as well as numerous culturally diverse tourists. It was tricky navigating through them in the huge, interconnected network of underground walkways.

    In Grand Front Osaka, we selected Cafe Muji as our venue for dinner. It operated like IKEA's café, where people had to select their meals from the display window and then take their trays back to their claimed seat. We were thoroughly delighted with their meal selections. I had crumbed fried mackerel, my sister and Dad had some fried chicken, whereas Mom had chicken and kale hamburger patty.

    We then went to check out the mall's Christmas Tree display. It paled in comparison to the Christmas Trees back home. It did not look as impressive as the photo featured in Osaka's Illuminations magazine article.

    We then strolled along the Midosuji Illuminations on the way to the Osaka City Hall. At first we passed through blue-lit trees, then a champagne gold grove and then a mix of sakura pink and more blue. After taking some pictures with the "Welcome to Osaka" sign, we took a train to Namba, then exited to Dotonburi.
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  • Day 4

    Delicious Dotonburi

    November 17, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    We all agreed that Dotonburi was like Osaka's New York Times Square, or Tokyo's Shinjuku. It was full of neon lights. According to a magazine article, Osaka is Japan's kitchen, and one must try to eat until you are either bankrupt or too full to continue. That's our kind of challenge.

    So we had some Takoyaki (whose shop played a very catchy tune while we queued) and later on some sticky rice balls. These were enveloped with sweet soy sauce and coated with either roasted rice powder or matcha powder. My preference was absolute--the roasted rice powder coating elevated this delicacy above the rest. We also saw plenty of quirky signs in the establishments' attempts to catch the interest of passing visitors.

    We decided to take the train home. As we neared our accommodation, I thought I caught a scent that reminded me of woodfire or burning charcoal - something that reminded me of Lola Soteng. It was an out of place aroma in a highly urbanised area where everything was electronic. So I knew that she was watching over us on this trip.

    We enjoyed our evening cuppa whilst debriefing before turning in for the night. Turns out we clocked in about 16000 steps this day.
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  • Day 5

    Fushimi Inari Taisha

    November 18, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    This was our earliest start so far for this trip, as we wanted to make full use of our Kansai Thru Pass.

    Weather forecast predicted rain and it would turn out to be the warmest day of our visit. We selected appropriate clothing and brought umbrellas, making our bags heavier. Despite that, we were unfazed and looked forward to seeing what Kyoto had to offer.

    We eagerly boarded the train as soon as the exiting passengers alighted. However we were asked to exit and... when the doors opened again... the seats had swiveled to face in the new direction of travel. Remarkable!

    When we arrived at Fushimi Inari station, we were inundated in a sea of people. Young and old alike and people of all races had flocked to see the Senbon Torii with its many splendid gates.

    After we safely crossed the railway tracks, we had some delicious dango (this time cooked over a vibrating non-stick cooking utensil) on our way to the Shrine. This sticky rice was thick, but the crowds were even thicker when we finally reached the Shrine grounds. The street was filled with foodstalls, each offering unique delicacies and freshly cooked treats that filled our nostrils with delight.

    We did Temizu (purified ourselves) by the Chozuya (Shinto water ablution pavilion) before proceeding up into the Shrine. This was optional.

    After we took some snapshots by the main gates, we were inadvertently separated into two groups. Because there were heaps of people, it became impossible for us to locate each other.

    My sister and I went into a part of the Shrine where we rang a bell and clapped our hands twice, before bowing in earnest hope for our intentions to come true. We said in jest that perhaps we should have wished to find our parents amidst the sea of bobbing heads.

    We finally reunited up by the entrance to the Torii gates. We then segued to the nearby small bamboo grove, knowing we would not be able to visit Arashiyama's bigger version due to time constraints. It was almost other-worldly to find a secluded spot amongst so many tourists. Thank you to the blogger who shared this valuable information.

    After that, we got to witness a pre-nuptial photo shoot of a couple in traditional Japanese clothing. We all noticed how much in-love they were, the man with his shy smile, and the woman who was very sweet and tender. On the other hand, we observed that the surrounding foliage was only starting to transition to their autumn colours.

    On our way back to the station, we had some meat-covered rice for lunch. I was surprised at how the meat was actually lean, yet substantial. Mine was flavoured with seasoned-cod mayonnaise. Mmm, it was phenomenal.

    Finally, Mom and I strolled by the river to take some photos of her trees with their vibrant autumn foliage.
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  • Day 5

    Ninenzaka

    November 18, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    On the way to Ninenzaka, we walked past Ishibe-koji alley. It was like being transported back in time. They have implemented a no-photography rule in this area, although there were still some photo-shoot going on. We guessed that they obtained some sort of permit.

    After we had a bathroom break, we heard a flute playing over where the rickshaw operators were on standby. Not far in the distance we saw a man in Shinto priest outfit walking towards us and alongside him, a trusty furry companion with four legs. Later on we found out he was Samurai Dog Masamune. This internet celebrity has his own social media presence. He clearly enjoyed the attention garnered from all the tourists. For ¥100, one can get an adorable postcard featuring this unlikely duo.

    Ninenzaka path was like a river flowing with tourists, ending the illusion of time travelling. There was however a relaxed vibe emanating from the crowd. Perhaps people found solace in this preserved and yet modernised street. Unfortunately the 'historic Japanese-style' Starbucks was full.

    We passed by Yasaka Pagoda on the way out. It is a forty six metre tall pagoda with graceful, sloping roofs on each of its five tiers. A very iconic structure in the middle of this old Kyoto neighbourhood.

    By this time it is twilight, and the prediction of showers at 5pm had indeed come to fruition. Luckily we had umbrellas and Mom and Dad had waterproof garments, so we remained dry for our walk back to the station.

    As this station was crowded with tourists all heading back to Osaka, we hopped onto an outbound train and secured our seats two stations ahead of the crowd. Were we not the clever travelers! I wrote my travel journal with great difficulty as the train offered lulling motions to which we all succumbed effortlessly.

    Upon arrival in Namba, we had dinner in Zen. We had some grilled saba fish with nikujaga, a very comforting, home cooked-type of meal after a big day of exploration.

    When we got back to our accommodation in Sakuragawa, we planned for our trip the next day. We deliberated between Nara and Himeji. One website said the autumn foliage transitioned in Himeji area a week earlier than Kyoto/Nara area and so we based our decision on this before turning in for the night.
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