Europe 2023

April - June 2023
A trip with friends and solo. Plans for Amsterdam, Geneva, wandering thru Switzerland, Austria, Slovenia and Slovakia. Read more
  • 48footprints
  • 8countries
  • 50days
  • 676photos
  • 15videos
  • 1.7kmiles
  • Day 32

    Austria to Lake Bled, Slovenia Day 31

    May 26, 2023 in Slovenia ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    A travel day. Left our lovely quiet home in Stubai Valley for Lake Bled, Slovenia. A scenic trip through Austria, Italy, Austria again and Slovenia - all in less than 5 hours, excluding the lunch stop. The Alps always around us but we left the taller, snow covered ones for smaller heavily forested ones. A really lovely drive through the Austrian and Italian countryside.

    Arrived here around 4P, found our new home for the next 3 nights. Weather finally warmer. Broke out the short pants and sandals for the first time on the trip. Got settled in, talked with our new “neighbors” from Austria as we have adjoining patios. It is a long weekend for them as Monday is a holiday here too. They are traveling with another couple and between them, I think we counted 4 kids. 😂. Did some planning for the next 2 days, found a grocery store, and to the Lake for dinner. We are about a mile from the Lake and quieter here.

    Bled is a tourist town know for its idyllic setting, a small lake with an island in the middle with a church, and a castle overlooking all. I have been here before but Carol has not, We found a place to park and a restaurant overlooking the lake. Great setting, food was just OK. Walked a bit along the lake and home for an episode of The Tailor and to bed.
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  • Day 33

    Lake Bled, Slovenia Day 32

    May 27, 2023 in Slovenia ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    A beautiful warm, sunny day and we are off to walk around the lake. (~3-4 miles). There is a wide gravel path all the way around. Lots of people walking and biking as it’s a Saturday. The dominant feature of the lake is a small island with a church taking up most of the island. We took a Plenta (type of “man-propelled” boat) over to the island, walked up,the long set of stairs to go into the church. The draw to this church is the long, heavy rope in the middle in front of the altar. You can pull on it and make the church bells ring. See pic of the little girls. We both got the bells to ring as well. 😌. Then back on the boat and to shore to continue our walk.

    As we discovered yesterday, this weekend is the European Olympic 2023 Rowing Competition on the lake. Lots of TV trucks and grandstand set up at the finish line. We spent some time on out walk watch/ing parts of various races. We stopped for lunch at a cafe near all the set for the finish of the races. Lots of booths selling gear and loud speakers calling the races. As we went around the backside and up a hill we could see the platform for the winners, just like the Olympics. Quite the scene. Later we found the area where all the boats were being kept - hundreds of expensive long boats.

    Our plan was to hike up to the castle when we got to that side of the lake. Hike descriptions said - moderate to strenuous - I was dubious but when we saw the sign, up we went. Quite a few others (all younger). A very long story short - we climbed all the way till we were even with the castle and the stairs to get across a narrow gorge between us and the castle were closed for maintenance! Could not get there from where we were. No sign for that at the bottom. 🤬. Lots of others did the same thing. Back down, VERY carefully we went and gave up on the castle idea for today as we already at 7 miles on our GPS. Finished out short walk around the lake, stopped for a beer and a charcuterie board and home for the evening.

    Finished The Tailor (a Turkish series, would not watch the next season) and started Anatomy of a Scandal.
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  • Day 34

    Lake Bled, Slovenia Day 33

    May 28, 2023 in Slovenia ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Last day of real tourism with Carol. There is a gorge near Bled that we set off for this morning. Another beautiful weather day, temp around 70 and sunshine with white clouds. The gorge is only a 15 minute drive on the other side of Bled from where we are staying. Arrived around 10A and started the gorge walk. Amazing views in all directions. The river running through the gorge is the Radova. Clear rushing water, high canyon sides, and wildflowers and green feens and plants all seemingly growing out of the rock. A beautiful walk on a boardwalk, many other people there but not too crowded. We took pictures (way too many). And slowly enjoyed the walk, about a mile, along the rock side and the numerous bridges.

    Then the real hike began, I visited this gorge about 6-7 years ago and when we finished we just turned around and went back. You cannot do that anymore. Instead you walk/hike back on one of two trails. We chose the longer “prettier “one and it was beautiful. First a long, gradual uphill along a lovely forested path. When we reached the top, there was a church, cafe and benches to sit and look at the beautiful view across a wide valley. The trail took off through pastures, on a gentle downhill for another couple miles. A really fun hike that we did not plan. Had a great lunch back at the entrance to the gorge - smoked trout with horseradish sauce salad! Carol tried the Aperol Spritzer which it seems everyone drinks here. They look so pretty - and orangish-red color, with Prosecco and Aperol - a kind of herbal mixture.

    On to our next stop about 45 minutes away, a Russian Chapel in the foothills of the Julian Alps. Before we got there we mistakenly visited Kranska-Gora, a pretty ski village at the base of the mountains. There is a Russian Church there that I thought was the Russian Chapel we were looking for. 😫. However a cute town and very good frozen yogurt and ice cream! 😂. Fortunately the chapel was not far from there up the very windy mountain road. This is a beautiful wooden chapel built in the woods in a tranquil, lovely setting. (See cover photo). During WW I this area was. POW camp for Russian prisoners. They built the road that winds though these mountains. While building there was an avalanche that killed many of the prisoners. This chapel was built by the remaining in their memory. The pyramidal stone I the picture is a grave for many of the soldiers. Just such a peaceful place.

    Back home for cocktail hour, dinner (pasta again) - all,outside on our deck as it is a lovely evening. Another episode of Anatomy of a Scandal, a little pre-packing as we leave here for Vienna tomorrow.
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  • Day 35

    Lake Bled to Vienna, Austria Day 34

    May 29, 2023 in Austria ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    A travel,day and not much to write. Left Bled around 10, filled up,with gas and on the way to Vienna. BTW: Gas has been around $6 a gallon. Sometime a little more, sometimes a little less. Actually with all we have read about the “no oil from Russia” for the Europeans, I thought it was going to be more. I have paid more than that most of the other times I have driven in Europe perviously. The drive to Vienna was about 4.5 hours, pretty much due East from Bled. ]We took our time, while still doing 80 to go with the flow of traffic on the autobahns. 😂. A portion of the route took us through very pretty agricultural Austrian countryside. The rest was freeway. Today is a holiday -again- Whit Sunday (celebrated on Monday - go figure). That is the good news and bad news; the good news, no trucks on the road; the bad news, nothing is open - lunch from a gas station. 😂. Carol,found a park along the way and we relaxed there for about an hour eating lunch and checking out the surroundings.

    Arrived at airport hotel around 3:30P. Settled in and walked across the street to the airport to do a “trial run” for Carol as she has to be at the airport by 5AM. Very convenient hotel for her. Back for cocktail hour in the lounge and dinner in the hotel restaurant. Started planning for tomorrow and the days following in Vienna. Early to bed.
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  • Day 36

    Vienna, Austria Day 35

    May 30, 2023 in Austria ⋅ 🌙 66 °F

    Carol up and out by 5AM for her 7AM flight. I happily said good-by and, as soon as she was out the door, went back to bed! 😂. Had a leisurely morning, a little BBC news, long shower and breakfast at the hotel. I have been trying off and on to get my nails done for 2 weeks. Today is the day. Found a nail salon at the train station where I was picking up MaryLou and Robert (ML & R) this afternoon. Arrived at the train station around 11 AM, found the studio, had to wait awhile and I feel so much better with nails that are not 5 weeks old! The main train station in Vienna is huge - pretty much like a shopping mall. I needed some more hand lotions and toothpaste, found that, found a bank for more money, had lunch at a Subway - a very productive morning.

    My friends from Sebastopol, ML & R, arrived around 3 from Prague. They have been traveling for a couple weeks in Europe already. I will stay with them here in Vienna until Saturday then they are leaving for Budapest and I will keep moving east to Bratislava, Slovakia.

    Loaded the car with their gear and found our “home” for the next 4 days, right in the middle of the Ring circle. Amazingly traffic was not too bad and found a place to park to unload. Apartment is on the 5th floor but there is an elevator! I stayed with the car as it was parked in a no parking zone. 😂. Then Robert and I took the car to a Park and Ride outside of City Center where it will stay for the duration of this part of the trip. (parking in the City was $45/day! Just like San Francisco). Took the subway back and found our way home. Found a grocery store a couple blocks away and stocked up for the 4 days.

    Wine and cheese and out for dinner nearby for Light Japanese, ceviche. Went for a walk after dinner looking at all the huge buildings and heated an announcer and crowd cheering in a nearby park. Come to find out the European FIBA World Championship basketball games were being held in a set up outdoor stadium. Turns out that this basketball is 3x3 - 3 players on each team and half court size - different rules. Big screen set up outside, tents with beer and food. Quite the happening. Admission was free so we went in and watched one game - games are 10 minutes long. Brazil beat France 19 to 16. This is both men’s and women’s tournament. Fun thing to stumble on to.

    Meandered back home, perfect weather but getting warmer. Out after 9PM tonight!!! 😂.
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  • Day 37

    Vienna, Austria Day 36

    May 31, 2023 in Austria ⋅ 🌙 70 °F

    Off for our first day of Vienna tourism. Decided to do Schonbrunn Palace, the summer home of the Hapsburgs. The usual problems in a new city, finding tube stops, figuring out which way to go, etc but we finally arrived there around 11 A. It is huge complex with several large building and enormous courtyard. We took pics and found the ticket building only to find out that we would have to wait 2.5 hours to get in. 😫. We did not want to do that so we went on line and made reservations for tomorrow morning, Hard to believe that on May 31 there is this kind of issue. Cannot imagine it will be in July and August! A recommendation to summer travelers: if there is something you really want to see, make reservations early!

    Back to town center with a stop for a sandwich and beer. The area around St Stephen’s cathedral is a long, wide pedestrian space with shops and cafes in all directions. The cathedral is the head of the Catholic Church in Vienna and home of the archbishop. The landmark symbol of the church is the multicolored tile roof. There has been a church on this site since at least 1000AD, probably earlier. Next stop, the Kuntshistorichesmuseum. (Art history museum). A new area of the city to explore - lots os museums in this area. We spent a couple hours enjoying the art and a coffee stop at the lovely Viennese coffee bar in the museum. While the art was wonderful, the building itself is magnificent! All the baroque detail and painted ceilings - beauty everywhere you looked.

    Home for a bit of “feet up” time and wine before dinner out tonight. Robert found a Viennese restaurant only one tube stop away. Fun dinner outside and all of us tried different types of Viennese cuisine: veal schnitzel, veal goulash, and boiled beef - a specialty of the restaurant. I had the goulash with spaetzel, it was very good. However, we all decided we have had enough meat for awhile. A good and very busy day..
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  • Day 38

    Vienna, Austria Day 37

    June 1, 2023 in Austria ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    Back to Schonbrunn Palace again. An early start to the day, our timed tickets for 8:45. Good time to go, not many people here when we started. The palace was the summer home of the Hapsburg’s for many years. Many generations lived there. The buildings are immense! The tour takes you through about 40 rooms used for various purposes and elegantly decorated. The preservation of the furniture, materials, and art is amazing. There is audio for each room with some detail. After the palace, we took a break for coffee and water. Weather is getting warmer - will be 80 today. 😝. Then we tackled the grounds. They go on forever, you can walk for miles! Beautiful shade trees, fountains, large sculptures, and an uphill walk about a mile from the palace where you reach the Panorama with a view all over Vienna. Roses in bloom and a rose garden with flowers of every color. We walked almost 5 miles until we got home! 😂

    Back home, we snacked on some leftovers for lunch. Robert found a pool on line and went for a swim. ML and I went to a nearby tea shop and the grocery store to replenish provisions. Then we tackled the washing machine, “Dry” run first time, water was not turned on. 😂.

    Dinner at the Japanese place next door and out for an evening of Classical music, one of the things I love about Vienna. There are classical music venues all over the city. And most perform almost every night. Yes, it’s very “touristy’ but the music is very good. Not big orchestras, but small groups. Our concert was in a home where Mozart once lived which is now a monastery. The musicians consisted of a cellist, pianist and a violinist. All 3 played together at the beginning and end and soloists or dues in between. The music is mostly the popular 18th C composers ; Mozart, Hayden, Beethoven, Strauss, List, Bach, etc - a really lovely evening. Walked back to our home amidst the lively cafes buzzing with conversations.
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  • Day 39

    Vienna, Austria Day 38

    June 2, 2023 in Austria ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    We decided to go out for breakfast this AM. Found a cafe, one of the dozens nearby, and had a good breakfast that we did not make ourselves. I think that is only the second time on this trip that I had breakfast out. No dishes to do! 😂.

    Next to find the Hop On Hop Off bus stop. The task proved to be a bit of a challenge but we “won” in the end. 😂. Spent the next 2-3 hours riding around Vienna, seeing the sites, and listening to a commentary on the history/fun facts about the city. Highlights for me: the Danube river with the river cruise boats, the old wooden Ferris wheel built in 1897, the number and size of parks on the outskirts of the city, and the seemingly endless street cafes with people enjoying coffee and conversation. A short stop at a cafe for some liquids and planning.

    Off to the Leopoldo museum which was close by. An art museum dedicated to the art of Austrians with a focus on the the Secession movement in the 1890’s, the emergence of Vienna as a major cultural city in Europe. A very good permanent collection with emphasis on Gustav Klimt and other prominent Austrian artists. Their special exhibition was also excellent. Two floors dedicated to 200 pieces of the Wurth collection - a wealthy art collector from Austria.

    A walk back home for “feet up” time before going out to dinner! Beer garden is in fine format tonight - really bad music but, if you drink enough, you probably don’t care! Out to dinner at an Italian place not far away. Good, not great, A slow walk back home enjoying the beautiful weather (around 72) and all the people having such a good time on a Friday night. Another good day!
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  • Day 40

    Vienna to Bratislava, Slovakia Day 39

    June 3, 2023 in Slovakia ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Another travel day. Retrieved my car from the car park ($18 for 4 days!) and then back to get ML & R and take them to the train station for their next stop - Budapest. I am on my way to Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia, only an hour east of Vienna. Had a few things to do before leaving Vienna, get gas, go back,to,the hotel I stayed at the first night here and pick up my electric toothbrush that I left there, and one more tourist stop in Vienna - the Hundertwasser House. (Really an apartment building). I had visited this delightfully amusing site on my last trip to Vienna many years ago. The building was built by Hundertwasser, an artist/architect in the 1980’s and incorporates his thinking on how architecture and nature can coexist. The building has almost no straight lines and 250 trees and bushes incorporated in the terraces, It currently houses 53 apartments and 4 offices. It’s hard to get a good picture, the video is better.

    I had some time to kill before I could check in to my apartment. Had looked at a map, saw a large lake only about 20 miles out of the way and headed there - Neusiedler am See. It was the perfect tranquil, peaceful lake setting, a few cafes, small hotel and comfortable seating around for all. I picked up some lunch and just and relaxed and decompressed after 2 and a half weeks of traveling with others and a very busy travel schedule.

    On to my new home for the next 3 nights, a beautiful apartment on the 27th floor of a modern high rise building in Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia - a new country for me! Spent some time to settle in and the out for a walk. The Danube river runs through Bratislava as well as Vienna on its way to its end in the Black Sea running thru 10 countries and 1,770 miles. And it’s a 5 minute walk from my back door. A fun walk along the river with all of the families enjoying a beautiful Saturday afternoon. A 6 mile path with lots of open space, trees and grass, playgrounds for kids and cafes lining the route. Home for dinner tonight, pasta, as usual, and Netflix in English! 😂
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  • Day 41

    Bratislovia, Slovakia Day 40

    June 4, 2023 in Slovakia ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    An abrupt change in the weather, much cooler and gray today with showers forecasted. No bight sunny day pictures today. I had scheduled a walking tour of historic Bratislava today while in Vienna. Met all at the starting point about a mile from where I am staying. The tour was well done, Dominica was intelligent and did not hesitate to answer difficult questions. I knew almost nothing about the history of Slovakia, now I know a bit more.

    For those of you who are interested, a very simplistic overview. For those not - skip,to the pictures. 😂. Recent Slovakia history: after 1000 years of Hungarian rule, they merged with the Czechs to become the Czecho-Slovak Republic. (Czechoslovakia) During WW II Czechoslovakia was under Nazi rule and “saved” by Soviet troops at the end of the war, leading to Czechoslovakia then under Communist rule following the war. In 1989, the Velvet Revolution brought about essential political changes and paved the way for democracy. Slovakia became an independent country in 1993 and joined the EU in 2004.
    The tour started at 10A in the Old Town. We spent over an hour in the 2 main plazas and adjoining areas. It is a pleasant area, many large shade trees, cafes and many tour groups, different companies. Many shops and restaurants open, unusual for Europe on a Sunday.

    The 2nd half of the tour was the story of the Jewish quarter during WW II and then Communism. A sad story an the impressive sculpture and area around it pay respect to the tragedy. Next we climbed the hill and stairs to the castle. The castle was built purely for defensive purposes and it’s not as “attractive” as many European castles. Renovations began in 2013 and took almost 10,years to bring the fortress to its current state. Extensive gardens were also added. Slovakia is working very hard to add itself to the list of major tourist destinations in Europe. Bratislava is very popular with German and Austrian tourists. A very interesting several hours.

    Took the rest of the day off from tourism. 😂. Grabbed a bad sandwich and a coke for lunch but had some “to die for” Belgian chocolate gelato for dessert that more than made up for the sandwich. Spent the rest of the afternoon catching up with some sleep, communications and planning for the final phase of this trip. Had no reservations after I leave here. Decided to first revisit a place in Austria neat Salzburg as the first stop wending my way west to Geneva for my flight home on the 13th.
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