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On Foot in France

August - September 2017
A 21-day adventure by Lulu Read more
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  • TravelerOn Foot in France
    Day 21

    It's Sunday in Paris

    September 17, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    We meet a newly married couple at breakfast. They are from Ghent celebrating their recent marriage. They speak excellent English and are very nice.

    Our host has made a warm rhubarb crumble. It's delicious. All of our breakfasts have featured something special -apple tart, a warm brioche - plus the fresh croissants , fruit, yogurt, two or three cheese selections. Whew it is more than anyone can eat. We are worried about the quantities left over but we do our best before pushing away from the table. We rarely want or need lunch.

    For the afternoon, Bill and I have tickets for the renovated Picasso Museum - which we are anxious to see.

    Patrimony Days continue and there are lots of people out on the streets including tourists, families and shoppers. The sun is out! It somehow feels like a holiday.

    We accidently discover the Museum des Arts and Metiers on the way to the Picasso and it's free so we go in to check it out. A most surprising place that has gathered together the early instruments and inventions of the scientific era. They are sorted by category and in chronographical order from sextant to computer. It's more interesting than it sounds and we are mesmerized.

    Then on to the Picasso. We spend a couple of hours and then move on. The renovation has erased virtually all the charm of the former building. Most probably it is better for the artwork; nevertheless, something has been lost.

    Once again we return home needing a good sit-down. Jeanne Etienne pops up from somewhere to say there is a half-bottle of champagne awaiting us. Goodness, how delightful!

    After all he says, it is our 'last night' in Paris. Ahh. As if that explains his generosity and warm welcome!

    We are smitten with this neighborhood and our accommodations. It's been a wonderful stay.    Read more

  • TravelerOn Foot in France
    Day 20

    Journees European du Patrimoine

    September 16, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Are we lucky or what? Today and tomorrow, France celebrates national pride by offering free entry to many of the city's museums, private homes and government buildings. Many of the buildings are normally closed to the public.

    Once again we start across the Seine; we are heading for the Musee de Cluny. It's small and not well known so we hope there will not be a line. As we pass the Concierge and Notre Dame, tourists are lined up around the block and security is heavy. It's raining too. Ugh. We exit on the left bank and head to the Cluny. No line, no charge. It is a perfect jewel to visit.

    We had planned a Paris Walks tour but it's raining again so we skip it. We take a break for lunch and hot tea. Of course the sun comes out. So we walk toward the Louvre.

    On the way we stop at the former bank of France, but it's closed except for a sculpture in the court yard. It's a huge tangle of aluminum tubing as tall as the walls. It thunders like an earthquake, it also moans, squeals and chirps. To our amazement, it also smokes up a storm, huge clouds of smoke billowing in the courtyard. Wow. It represents a very earnest message about climate change. Wow. Again. Mesmerizing.

    We head back across the river and the whole scene changes. The Louvre is also free today; everyone in Paris, every bus, taxi and car is trying to enter at the pyramid. Eek! We move away quickly, or at least as fast as we can in the massive amount of traffic and humanity.

    Home again, we put up our feet. Our wonderful host, Jeanne, had left a bottle of rose for us, along with a plate of Chanter a is melon. It's very nice as an aperitif and special because it's so unexpected.

    Later we head out for dinner and find that the famous Frenchie's is right around the corner! Quelle surprise😊. It's closed...on a Saturday night??

    We find a different spot and we're happy to crash once again by 10.    Read more

  • TravelerOn Foot in France
    Day 19

    All Around the Block

    September 15, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Friday begins with a very nice breakfast. There are four other guests but they are finishing their petite dejeuner and leaving. We enjoy a good start to the day and a chat with Jeanne Etienne who wants to make sure we have a good 'programme' for the day. We do, so we set off around 10 and head toward the Seine across the Pont St. Michael to Notre Dame, majestic and familiar at the same time.

    There's a young couple in the plaza posing for their wedding photos. They have a make-up assistant, a photographer and a 'producer' of sorts who holds the lighting panel. They've also hired the guy who feeds the pigeons. The birds flock to him and then he moves over to put crumbs in the girl's hand. The pigeons swarm all over her dress. Later he drops bread on the groom's head. The groom picks up the girl, the birds cover them both and swirl around them. She is wearing excellent sparkly shoes and the are smiling together. A real Hollywood moment on video. Really charming to watch them.

    Later we visit Hotel de Dieu, a 14c hospital now serving the poor of Paris. I stayed there six years ago in their hotel for families of patients. When the rooms are not full, they will rent to tourists. A great address to have on the I'lle de la Cite..

    We stay on our feet all day exploring the Latin Quarter, The institute of the Arab World designed by Jean Nouvel (very modern, good view from the roof). Then back over the bridge to the new Opera de Bastille, then home. Nous on fatiguee en extremis.

    Pasta for dinner in the 'hood, served by a guy from Palermo. He's funny and nice and loves it that Bill orders a beer. The servings are pretty robust, as is the shared salad. We can't finish everything so we just head home and pass out.    Read more

  • TravelerOn Foot in France
    Day 19

    Quartier Pietons

    September 15, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Jean Etienne counsels us on neighborhood dining. There are lots of choices very close by he says. What he fails to tell us is that the streets are limited to pedestrians. It's wonderful...no cars, no motorcycles.

    Within one block we turn right and there are endless rows of casual restaurants with sidewalk seating and NO cars. When did this happen in Paris?

    Needless to say we are thrilled. We take our time checking out the possibilities which are global (sushi anyone?) but predominately French. Bill is drawn to a specialty beer place. When we get there to order, it is filled wall to wall with young adults - and us.

    We get a very nice IPA (#7 on the menu) and split it. Then - on to a local cafe that is stuffed with young adults - and us.

    We think we are the only Americans. The Parisiens are happily and noisily enjoying their evening. A salade nicoise and glass of red wine for me. Bill has another beer and a plate of pasta with a terrific mushroom sauce. We are happy and tired. Although the beat goes on at the Cafe du Centre, we retire to our wonderful suite and collapse.    Read more

  • TravelerOn Foot in France
    Day 19

    In the 9th Arrondissement

    September 15, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Late Thursday we finally arrive at our b&b in the 9th Arr. on Rue de Poissioniers. Our host rushes out to the street to get us just as we are searching for a doorbell to ring.

    The stores on street level are not reassuring - a hardware store and an Indian restaurant. Hmm - perhaps this was a bad idea. But then voila! Our host, Jean Etienne, bounds up the first flight of stairs with my suitcase and Bill follows.

    The host's apartment is beyond charming! It is filled with antiques but not too many. The lighting is both contemporary and generous. Our own wonderful en suite room awaits. Lovely, contemporary, brand new bath. A similar design spirit at work. Light filled, with four floor to ceiling windows looking over some gardens. It's a large corner room on the back side. Street noise is zero. Later we discover a hot pot for tea, extra water, cookies, maps, etc.

    We are amazed, happy and we feel very lucky indeed. Now to explore the neighborhood!    Read more

  • TravelerOn Foot in France
    Day 18

    Carnac Plage to Paris

    September 14, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Last night in Carnac Plage, rain continued through dinner and the late evening. Our last dinner with this group was held in a very small, classy, family restaurant right on the beach. Madame, the owner, orchestrated the service and selected the menu with Annie. Once again over-the top-excellence.

    We begin with a Champagne toast. Annie thanks us and we thank her profusely. Lots of hugging goes on and many kind words. Then:

    A Sancerre. A dark Burgundy. L'eau Minerale

    An amuse bouche panna cotta with a strange and strangely delicious mix: beet custard on the bottom, raspberry custard on the top. Presented in a wildly modern handmade glass.. An odd combo that was both totally delicious and totally unexpected. But of course...

    Next, poached lobster. After that turbot. Each served in a puddle of sauce that I can't describe with any phase other than luxurious. Bill says otherworldly. Either way, we are in agreement.

    Silence has fallen around the table. There is no conversation only the occasional moan. And then dessert. We eventually totter off to our hotel. It is very late.

    The morning brings breakfast and farewells. Annie is tearful as are a few others. It's been exactly the treo we had hoped for with a great your leader and good companions. No quitters, even on the worst of the bad weather days. And no whining either.

    Still, everyone is heading somewhere else now. Bill and I take the high speed train to Paris and a cab from Gare Montparnass to our b&b which is located near the Opera Garnier in the 9th arrondisement north of the Seine. It's a slow taxi ride because it's a nice day and the streets are filled with people. Traffic is terrible.    Read more

  • TravelerOn Foot in France
    Day 17

    Carnac Plage

    September 13, 2017 ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    We wake up this morning to wind, rain and an angry ocean. Oh dear, the planned morning outside is a two and a half hour hike. We meet the group at the breakfast tables and watch the outside weather. There is much discussion about rain gear. In the end, only three people elect to skip the hike and hope for better conditions in the afternoon. Two of those people are Bill and me. We are fatiguee...

    We enjoy a quiet morning in the hotel and take a walk through this charming beach town. Of course it would be more charming in better weather. Sigh.

    The little shops are vacant and some are closed for the season. Many cafes and restaurants are shuttered.

    The group returns after a wet, but not untenable hike among scattered dolmens and menhirs. Not all of these stones are enclosed within the museum's archeological grounds. Literally they are everywhere for miles around. No wonder people have used them to build their houses. In fact it was not until 1991 that these ancient stones were regarded as worthy of notice and research began.

    We are off to lunch. Annie says it's the best fish in town. It looks like a dump. But my goodness, she knows her stuff!

    There is a festive dinner scheduled for our last evening together, so most people order cautiously. The salad platters arrive and they are utterly astonishing. They are huge and fresh and beautiful.

    I've ordered moules frites. The pot is the size that seems customary in this part of France. It contains five or six dozen small mussels in a fragrant white wine sauce with garlic and fresh parsley. I sincerely doubt that I will ever have sweeter, fresher mussels. It kind of ruins your appetite for the large green New Zealand mussels often served in the US. (inset heavy sigh here). I give up about three inches from the bottom of the pot. Mmmm.    Read more

  • TravelerOn Foot in France
    Day 17

    The Alignment

    September 13, 2017 ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    Following our canoe trip, we stop briefly at a restored Breton village circa 1906. It's a small village of farm families that was abandoned long ago because of the poverty of the residents.

    The restoration is sweet, low buildings of the Breton countryside with stone walls and thatched roofs. Lunch is also early 20th century featuring cabbage soup, sausages, lots of potatoes and grains. We encounter really extraordinary Breton beurre de sel and country bread. It disappears from the table quickly. Then we are off to the dolmens and menheirs for which Carnac is famous.

    We arrive in Carnac late in the afternoon and are taken to a rock field by our guide. The wind has picked up and blowing hard. The clouds whisk rapidly and menacingly across the sky. It's cold and damp and we are freezing. The guide soldiers on outdoors for about an hour. In spite of the difficult conditions, our guide manages to deliver a remarkably concise and coherent summary of the archeological aspects of these huge stones which may have been erected about the 5th century b.c.

    We have not seen the entirety of the three separate paleolithic sites but no matter, it is getting late and dark. We are all hungry.

    Luggage it's quickly unloaded at Hotel Diana. Everyone disperses and we meet up for dinner together at 7:30.

    This hotel is family owned and provides not only the best views (directly overlooking the beach) but the best combination of food, service and elegant dining.

    Dinner is truly extraordinary. I meet my first oeuf mollet in a first course. It's accompanied by smoked duck breast and an unidentifiable but rich sauce. Bill has tempura style fried sardines. A brave choice since sardines are not the usual fare in our house. They are pronounced 'délicieux.'

    The main course is beef for both of us. Dessert is beautifully presented and also ' délicieux.' I have stopped photographing the plates. They are so beautiful that I fear the big pages are getting tedious. We are living in a dream world here with these meals.    Read more

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