to nowhere in particular

September 2023 - May 2024
backpacking my way through the world Read more
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  • 236days
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  • Day 200–202

    tehran, pt. 2

    April 2 in Iran ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    time to pick up elias, who i had first met a couple of months back in izmir. i took a bus to tehran, met the bloke at the hostel and spent two days revisiting tehran. also, i handed johannes' old tent over to him and made him buy a cheap camping mat and sleeping bag.

    by accident, we found ourselves standing in front of the german embassy at one point, where multiple people wanted help from us to get in. of course, i couldn't really do much for them. it's sad, really.

    at the hostel, there was also a nice pakistani guy who helped us complete the pakistan visa. green light.
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  • Day 196–200

    isfahan, pt. 2

    March 29 in Iran ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    i spent 4 more nights at the heritage hostel with johannes and olli, a biker from finland who had just come from afghanistan. not too much happened. i didn't want to travel to more cities in order to have enough places "remaining" that i could visit with elias, who i'd pick up from the airport in tehran soon.

    we did get invited to a little house party, though. also, i had to say goodbye to johannes, who went off on his own to go push the envelope.
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  • Day 195–196

    tamir strait

    March 28 in Iran ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    after all the sightseeing and sitting around of the last weeks, i wanted to go smell some fresh air again and managed to convine johnnes to go on a little field trip, which turned out to be a great idea. we took a snapp-taxi out of the city, told him to stop on the highway in the middle of nowhere and started walking towards the mountains. after just 5 minutes of walking, a police car already rolled up on us, but after a bit of talking, we were given permission to proceed as long as we didn't go too far off track.

    under the blazing sun, we started ascending and walked for the rest of day, before finally stopping on top of the huge mesa we had found ourselves on. the views were absolutely amazing, johannes' camera was running hot.

    we had some dinner while watching the sun set and found two good wind protected spots to sleep in. because of low humidity and good weather, we even decided against the tent, so that we could sleep right under the stars. thought i heard some wolves at night, but didn't see any trace the next morning when catching the sunrise.

    we packed up, hiked back down to the highway, and hitched a ride back to isfahan. good times.
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  • Day 192–195

    isfahan, pt. 1

    March 25 in Iran ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    this time, we weren't as lucky with the check in time as in kermanshah and had to wait for a couple of hours until we could catch up on sleep. to all of our surprise, johannes, a german bikepacker i had met in the hostel in tehran, walked through the door all of a sudden. we collectively scraped up our remaining energy and went to have a look around the city.

    isfahan is beautiful, great people, and the hostel especially is really worth the money. 4 to 5 euros a night, including all the tea you could ever want, breakfast buffet and great people to meet. if you ever plan to come to iran, start there.

    towards the end of the day, i got the idea to go on a little sunset hike and johannes joined me. it started raining buckets as soon as we got to the mountain, but we decided to push through and were awarded with an invitation to a mountainside barbecue as well as a rainbow sunset. johannes also gave me his old tent for free, which i would in turn give to elias.

    then followed just a couple of slow days spent at the hostel planning, socialising, relaxing. since i feel like i still haven't disconnected from using my phone and so on, i got the idea to do a longer trip to nature at some point in the future. the idea escalated from a 4-day tour in kyrgystan to the te araroa, a 3000km thru-hike spanning the whole of new zealand. we'll see.

    i also realized that i might have to break my no-fly-rule after nepal, because tibet is only crossable with an expensive ass organized tour and tons of paperwork. either that, or i go back all the way to pakistan and cross to china there, which would also require lots of paperwork. once again, we'll see.
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  • Day 190–191

    shushtar

    March 23 in Iran ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    upon arrival in andimeshk, we were, as usual, swarmed by taxi drivers. unlike in turkey, they usually leave you be if you say no, though. i notice more and more and more that it's an iranian trait to create problems where there are none. despite this, after some back and forth, we ended up taking a taxi to a spot in the city where you can share taxis with other people to cut costs for longer rides. that seems to be the way to go if there are no bus connections to where you're heading.

    like this, uyiun and i met our new friend (whose name escaped me right now, he only mentioned it once). he was a man in his fourties and had come back from a family visit in andimeshk. after hearing that we weren't sure where to sleep now, he instantly offered to host us both. we were more than glad to accept.

    coming into his apartment, we were greeted by a typical persian living room consisting of carpets and carpets, which makes a great place to sleep, as it turns out. he made some breakfast for us, we took a nap, and then he drove us out to the city center of shushtar, where a famous historical hydraulical system complex lies. looks cooler than it sounds.

    once again, the place was absolutely stuffed and more pictures were taken of us than of the scenery. we met a really nice family that helped us with the tickets, though. also, one of the daughters spoke some korean, which is far more common in iran than you'd ever think. all thanks to k-pop.

    we concluded the day by hiring a private driver for 3 hours for 6.000.000 rial (~11€) to get us to an ancient temple a bit out of the city. we came at the perfect time for sunset, when the masses were already leaving, and even if i'm not a huge fan of old stone stacks, it was really pretty. we even met the family from earlier again.

    back at the apartment, our friend was shocked to hear that we hadn't had proper dinner yet, so he whipped out some chicken to prepare some barbecue skewers. the guy was really the sweetest person ever and he got a lot of joy out of caring for us. by the way, he had the average iranian english competency level, which is zero. we had the google translate servers working 9-5 for us.

    the next morning, he dropped us off at the bus station on his way to work and we said our farewells. sadly, we had to wait about 10 hours until the next bus to isfahan was free, so we had a guy from a grocery store take our bags while we went to the city park to wait it out.

    we chilled for a couple of hours, surprisingly saw people smoking weed on more than one occasion (and were even offered a hit) and had some lunch before heading back to the terminal. the bus wasn't the newest, and uyiun next to me was sick from running around in crocs in the rain, but we survived and made it to the hostel.
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  • Day 187–189

    kermanshah

    March 20 in Iran ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    9 hours after almost missing the bus, we arrived at the small kermanshah bus terminal. getting a taxi was a real quest, but eventually we made it to the hostel hidden away in a dodgy looking alley, where we were welcomed the exact moment nowruz (the iranian new year) happened.

    luckily, we still found an open convenience store, where i was the happiest person in the world because i thought i had found pre-made lasagna when really, i just bought 2 kilos of pasta plates. devastating. at least we found out that the products in iran are not, in fact, unmarked, instead, if you look closely enough, you'll find a little stamp with persian numbers somewhere on the packages. after lunch, we took a walk exploring some of kermanshahs back alleys. also bought a new usb c aux adapter for my phone, replacing the one i had kept taped to the back of my phone at the right angle to keep it working for the last couple of weeks.

    just after sunset, we bumped into a chap who promptly invited us to his brothers wedding the next day. we were super pumped and exchanged numbers, but after a couple of messages his number stopped working. we couldn't figure out how to get back in touch with him, so there goes the persian wedding :(

    while we were waiting for our snapp (iranian uber) the next day, a car pulled up next to us and offered to drive us. inside was a doctor couple taking their grandma carpet shopping. they drove us to taq-e-bostan, the local landmark. there, we became the main attraction for the first of many times. since it's a holiday in iran, there were tons of domestic tourists that are even more eager than normal locals to talk to you. as soon as someone worked up the courage to strike up a convo or ask for a picture, half the crowd wanted one. smile and wave.

    we then went on a little walk into the mountainside, where i saw some rock climbers and struck up a conversation. 5 minutes later, i was already roped up and ascending some 7A. no idea in what grading system this is, but after half a year of zero exercise, the crux beat me. still a super fun experience.

    back at the hostel, we had a new dorm mate from iraq. he was a super chill guy and together with an iraqi girl i would meet in isfahan a week later, he opened my eyes to the very real possibility (and relative safety) of travelling to iraq. according to them, the living standards there were better or equal to the ones in iran. there's some kind of a pilgrimage event every year where people from the whole country walk to a specific city, and apparently the security during that time is very good, so i hope i get to parttake in this journey sometime in the future.

    the next day, we booked a bus to our next destination, shushtar, for which we had to wait several hours, so we decided to go somewhere else. i found a nice looking spot in nature on google maps, and as soon as we got close, we were picked up by a car and invited to join the drivers young friend group for a picnick.

    as we were driving up to the spot, i thought we had accidentally run into a festival. there were hundreds of cars parked on this meadow, with tons of people spread out around the place sitting on carpets, barbecuing or smoking hookah. me and julia met the rest of our new crew, none of which could really speak english, but who cares at this point. the vibes were great, it felt like any other get-together of a german uni friend group.

    we hiked up the hillside to some caves tucked away in a small valley, where we weren't going to be bothered by the masses down below, especially since i had carried two bottles of mystery water up the mountain. tents were set up, music boxes turned on, shots poured. we partied up there just until sunset, when we had to leave the group in order not to miss the bus. great times though. and we didn't go blind.
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  • Day 185–186

    tehran, pt. 1

    March 18 in Iran ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    driving i to tehran (we paid about 5 euros for a basically empty 9 hour VIP bus with infinite leg space) i got really excited. reaching the azadi tower had been my original travel goal before i extended the trip to kathmandu. the main bus station is right next to the azadi place, so we just had to go check it out.

    then, it was time to say goodbye. stepan had been in contact with a lady from the czech embassy who offered him to stay there in safety as well as sending a private driver to pick him up and get him there. now alone, i had to learn that the cash metro ticket offices (foreign credit cards don't work in iran) close at ten, so i had to look for a taxi. i was down to 500.000 rial (~90ct) at this point, so i had to give the taxi driver a single dollar note on top, which he thankfully accepted.

    arriving at the hostel felt like finally entering a real safe space for the first time in iran. i quickly bumped into uiyun again, who had been waiting there for me. i also met a young guy from afghanistan as well as a german bikepacking couple and we talked deep into the night.

    uiyun, just how we know and love her, already had plans to visit the next city, so we didn't waste any time and explored tehran the whole day. it's a super vibrant city, a lot more liberal than you'd think. you see a lot of women without hijabs, certainly a lot more than in tabriz. people are also mega friendly and everything is insanely cheap. even eating during ramadan isn't a problem, scince travelers are exempt from the fasting. a good chunk of even the locals doesn't seem to follow the fast either.

    we also went to the bus terminal, found the last seats on a night bus to kermanshah, and got on our way.
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  • Day 182–185

    tabriz

    March 15 in Iran ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    after a couple minutes of driving, we were allowed to take our blindfolds off to see the city. it was almost midnight when we got to the hotel. the police guys talked to the receptionist, took us to our room, then left me and stepan behind.

    we were both massively relieved, laughing the whole time. first came a big fat hug, then a big fat shower, then a big fat sleep. but with our phones still taken, even now, there was no way to contact our families. after all, we didn't know if they had even noticed or if the KSK was about to kick down the hotel door.

    the next day, we went to the hotel owner, hamid, to resolve this problem. he was the best thing we could've hoped for and helped us so much over the next couple of days. although we couldn't use anyones instagram or whatsapp because of government monitoring, he took us to an internet café, where we could send no more than one e-mail, so stepan wrote to his mom.

    hamid also took us to the black market for money exchange and got us some food (which isn't that easy during daytime in ramadan). turns out he is an absolute boss in tabriz and owns different stores, as well as the hotel there.

    while walking through the city, an elderly man enthusiastically waved us into his sewing shop. his name was mister ali, and he collected foreigners signatures and entries in his books. we were number 2000-something. he was the sweetest, most hospitable guy ever and (together with hamid) precisely what we needed now to make up for the not so hospitable days before. someone even made him a google maps page - just look up ali's shop tabriz :)

    hamid also took us to see the bazaar along with some other famous places in tabriz, but for obvious reasons i don't have many pictures of those.

    although we were now out, life still wasn't all peaches and cream, but at least we had windows and paper + pens to keep us entertained (we almost never went out together, fearing that we might miss the police coming back with our belongings). i'll let the pictures speak for themselves.

    after days of waiting, we finally got the message that the police was about to come back. we were placed in a car again and blindfolded, but this time the policemen made clear that there was no trouble. stepan and me sat in an office room for another hour or so filling out the final documents, before finally getting everything except stepans drone back.

    the very next day, we wasted no time and took a bus straight to tehran, but not before revisiting mister ali in his shop and getting him to sew on the flag patches for georgia, armenia and iran onto my backpack.
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  • Day 180–182

    unknown iranian prison

    March 13 in Iran ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    let's hope i don't get in trouble for writing about this.

    upon having crossed the border bridge from armenia to iran without problems, we tried to secure a ride to the next biggest city, tabriz. a little lada stopped for us, but we didn't really fit, so we got out again after a couple hundred metres. then, a man in a white car pulled up next to us and asked where we are heading. when er said tabriz, he wanted to have a look at our passports to make sure we're legit. he snatched the passports, got into his car, pulled out a camera and started taking pictures.

    not knowing what the fuck he was on about or who the guy even was, we tried to pull them from him, you know, in order not to end up documentless in iran, which he didn't accept. he kept insisting that he needed to inspect them further. at this point, stepan got a bit more physical with the guy, while i pulled out my phone to capture him and his license plate on video.

    finally, stepan managed to get our passes back and the guy pissed off after a bit of arguing. unfortunately, stepan then also tried to sneak a picture of the guys license plate. he must've seen him, because ten seconds later, he pulled over next to us again, this time even more aggressive. he wanted to see our phone galleries and told us that he was a cop. we eventually agreed to delete the files and he went off again, only to come back a couple of minutes later.

    now, he said that he needed to confiscate out phones for inspection. we still didn't believe that the guy was actually a cop, but agreed to go back and wait for actual police. after an hour, three more men pulled up, but at least this time, one of the cars had a green license plate, aka actual police. we had to wait 5 more hours in the sun (i got a fat sunburn) and answer their questions until they said they'd take us tabriz now.

    we were a bit less pissed off, but only until the car pulled into a fortified police compound. we had to undress while they took apart our backpacks and spent the rest of the day handcuffed in the waiting room and shortly also inside a cell. thankfully, as soon as the higher ups left, the vibe got wayy better and the police guys (some of them probably not much older than us) got comfortable with us and started joking around with us the entire time. we even watched a football game on the tv.

    shortly before midnight, after about eight more hours of not knowing what the fuck was going on, we got picked up again by other people, including the one sitting next to me with a kalashnikov. they said that they were taking us to a different station, where we'd get some warm dinner and had to answer a couple of questions for them. we started getting more hope again that we'd spent the night in our tents camping in tabriz as planned, not in a cell.

    well, turns out we were going to same secret police stasi prison thing. after an hour of driving, they wrapped our electronics in aluminium foil, put jackets over our heads and told us not to move. at this point, we were finally both sure that this is real police, we'd be spending the night in real prison and that we'd gotten ourselves knee deep into some real serious shit.

    still blindfolded, we were seperated and then underwent a VERY thourough body visitation and were given some nice blue-striped prison suits to wear. they weighed me, took all kinds of pictures, asked a billion questions. we were now suspects for espionage because we took pictures too close to the border (although we were basically forced to by the prick in the white car not knowing how to properly identify himself as police).

    after some time, it must've been 1am at this point, they finally took off my blindfold and i found myself standing barefeet and alone in my cozy new home for the coming days, including three nasty blankets, a water bottle containing some questionable liquid, a security camera and two quorans. and that's pretty much it. however, without trying to sound like a tough guy, i was still feeling pretty good, made myself a little bed from the blankets and slept like a baby.

    for maybe two hours. then, they called me out again for more interrogation infront of a one-way mirror. they had found some questionable things in our posession, i.e. stepans drone and my armenian army badge given as a souvenir from a soldier i met on the bus to byurakan. hard to explain, especially scince even the "interpreter" they had gotten didn't speak more than fourth grade english.

    the interviewing honestly wasn't the bad part, the endless waiting alone in solitary confinement was. no phone, no book, not even a pen or a picture to look at. i used the time t take on some new hobbies, here are some of my favourite:
    - counting to 1500 (takes longer than you'd think)
    - walking in circles and taking a hike through the cell for a couple of hours until the guy watching the security cameras loses his shit and yells at you though the intercom
    - staring at the blank wall infront of you while humming songs until you start seeing things
    - requesting adventurous blindfolded trips to the toilet

    but yeah, apart from that, the interrogations and the little warm meals were the highlights. i was chilling though, i was just upset that my family might be getting worried. only on the second day, i realized the load of incriminating horse shit that my image gallery, chat history and notes app must be to other people. luckily, it seems they didn't find everything.

    after two nights, endless interviews and document signings and a lot of recitations of nena's 99 luftballons, they finally introduced me to a new character who even allowed me to speak to him without the blindfold. he explained that due to international law, they couldnt keep us detained any longer. we would be escorted to a hotel, where we had to remain while they would keep inspecting our phones and other devices.

    after being put back into the cell for five hours, i thought they had bullshitted me again, but finally, i was taken to the interrogation room where my stuff was already waiting for me. a couple more questions later, i even saw stepan again. he was probably a bit more taken than me, but still in good shape. still, they didn't allow us to send messages to our family, how cunty of them. looking through my stuff, i also found two 50$-bills missing, but i wasn't there to argue anymore. we were (somewhat) free again. the atmosphere was a lot less tense than before, hands were shaken and one of the men even gave us two ribbons as a souvenir.

    sadly, for obvious reasons, i don't have many pictures to show here, so here's the only picture from iran they didn't delete, along with a little drawing i made of my cell.
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  • Day 179–180

    agarak

    March 12 in Armenia ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    finally after what felt like an eternity, i left yerevan behind. the road to iran is the same as to areni, so i already knew how to get to the street and where to stand. i met stepan at a metro station after he got his visa done. we got picked up after like 5 minutes by a guy who got us out of the city. after dropping us off, it didn't take two minutes until we were going again. it seems that i really forgot how helpful sings are when you're hitchhiking.

    the second guy was awesome. not only did he get us all the way to kapan (less than two hours from the border), but he also stopped in areni to show us around a wine factory, including a wine testing, after which he bought each of us a bottle of our favourite one. he also didn't accept our attempts to pay for our own food at the food court on the way. because alcohol is strictly forbidden in iran, it was now our honorable duty to get rid of the wine before reaching the border. we did a good job, i think.

    also, if you ever plan an international road trip with a motorbike, i think the armenian mountain roads would be beautiful. we reached kapan in the afternoon and managed to stop a truck driver heading for iran, squeezed into the cabin somehow and laid eyes on the first iranian mountain beyong the heavily fortified border river just as the sun was setting.

    we hiked uphill for an hour, and after a bit of looking around, managed to find a good camping spot near a big dam/mining area. had some dinner along with the rest of the wine and some good music. in the night, we were woken up multiple times by a wolves howling at us from the mountains around us. and sure enough, we woke up not only to a fantastic view, but also some canine tracks around out tents.
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