• Busselton WA

    6 april 2023, Australië ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Today, finally, after 12 days of heading west, we’ve dipped our toes in the Indian Ocean and are now heading north! Destination Fremantle for the Easter Weekend. We’re very much looking forward to reuniting with Josh and Ryan and will be waiting excitedly at the airport to welcome them tomorrow morning. Although he probably won’t admit it, Lachie is especially excited for their return. Mum and Dad are fun, but big bros are the best! The footy ball is already out and awaiting a good kick-around.

    When in Busselton, one must visit the longest wooden-piled jetty in the Southern Hemisphere. Being such a glorious day we happily strolled the 1.8 km out to the Underwater Observatory, one of only six operating in the world. We saw some interesting sea life including a big Samson fish which can apparently grow to 6 feet long. We were lucky to jag some seats on the solar-powered Jetty Train for the way back, which also included interesting commentary about the history of the jetty.

    After checking in at the Discovery Park Woodman Point we headed into Fremantle for dinner at Gino’s Cafe - another great recommendation. As the story goes, Gino Saccone arrived in 1956 from Italy. He worked as a tailor in Freo for over 20 years, but he could never get a decent coffee. In 1983 he closed his tailor shop and with his family opened Ginos Café. Since then 3 generations of the Saccone family have run Gino's Cafe and still serve some of the best coffee in Perth – with Rosa’s home style Italian cooking.
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  • Margaret River WA

    5 april 2023, Australië ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Another on-the-go day packing in as many sights and activities as we could around Margaret River.

    We spent the morning in town fulfilling a special request from Josh for a Margaret River surf t-shirt from Hillzeez, along with West Coast Eagles caps for Anthony, Ryan and Lachie.

    Then it was off south to Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse, reportedly the tallest on mainland Australia, presiding over the treacherous seas where the Southern and Indian Oceans meet.

    As we made our way back up the coast road we stopped for a tour of Lake Cave, with the largest intact suspended table formation in the world! Although not a big cave (just 80m long) it had a number of interesting features that when lit up presented a rather spectacular scene.

    Next stop, Surfers Point and Southside surf breaks at the mouth of the Margaret River itself. They were in the process of setting up for the Margaret River Pro event later in the month. Pity we missed it by just a few weeks. The beach wasn’t what we’d expected. It truly is for surfers only. We were surprised it appeared to be a rock shelf. However, the break was interesting, apparently called an a-frame wave caused by opposing swells from the Southern and Indian oceans.

    And of course last but not least, no trip to Margaret River would be complete without visiting the wineries. Voyager Estate was by far our favourite and an excellent recommendation. We might need an ATM upgrade for the caravan before we leave! Looking forward to joining up with Daniel and Helen in a couple of days time to enjoy the bounty.
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  • Pemberton WA

    4 april 2023, Australië ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Today was essentially a travel day between Albany and Margaret River, with a short detour to climb the Gloucester Tree at Pemberton.

    But first on the agenda was ‘breakfast’ at the Mount Barker Bakery (another great recommendation on Lou’s foodie tour of Albany). Possibly one of the best old school bakeries we’ve been to - so much choice! We opted for the recommended green curry chicken pie (the best!) and classic vanilla slice and were not disappointed. Plus a high-top loaf that was perfect for our sandwich lunch in the forest at Pemberton. I’d like to say we’ll be back, but we must keep moving on.

    The Gloucester Tree certainly was an experience. Originally a fire spotting tower, the enormous Karri tree is now open for visitors to climb the ladder to appreciate spectacular views over the forest. Anthony made it to the top, while Lachie and I went part way up before returning to take pics from below. Some poor planning on our part meant the big camera and zoom lens were locked in the van with the keys in Anthony’s pocket some 53m above. Look for a tiny little figure amongst the branches - that will be Anthony!

    Our pre-purchased WA Parks Pass is paying dividends. We have used it many times already and definitely recouped it’s value.

    After checking in at Margaret River Tourist Park, we made a quick dash to Xanadu Winery for essential supplies before checking out the town and retiring for dinner in the van.
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  • Rainbow Coast WA

    3 april 2023, Australië ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    This morning as we set out in a shower of rain, we thought we might see first hand why the region around Albany is known as the 'Rainbow Coast'. But true to our local guide’s word, the rain was short-lived and followed thereafter by patches of sun (sadly no rainbows).

    We headed along the South Coast Highway towards Denmark and Walpole. The Valley of the Giants famous Tree Top Walk was pretty cool, comprising a series of platforms and suspension bridges reaching 40m above the forest floor! Sadly my childhood memory of driving through the hollow of a giant Red Tingle tree wasn’t to be relived, as it turns out such activity (including by generations before us) ultimately played a part in killing the tree, with its surprisingly shallow root system destroyed by years of ground compaction. Fortunately, the WA Department of Biodiversity, Conservation and Attractions is now actively correcting the errors of the past and protecting these magnificent trees and forests so we may appreciate them for years to come.

    As the sun came out, we headed for William Bay National Park and another of my childhood memories - Greens Pool. We also checked out nearby Elephant Rocks and Waterfall Beach. They are each spectacular swimming spots in their own right, so it’s unfair to say we were underwhelmed. But we all agreed they just didn’t compare to Lucky Bay and Cape Le Grande NP. We’ve been ruined, no beach will compare!

    Returning to town we explored the Brig Amity to experience what life would have been like aboard one of the convict ships that came to the West Coast of Australia in 1826.

    We ended another great day with dinner at Due South, a funky casual restaurant down by the waterfront, to celebrate our last night in Albany and farewell Lou and Darcey (and Harry). It’s been so good to catch up xx
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  • Torndirrup NP

    2 april 2023, Australië ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Next stop on the Albany adventure tour was Torndirrup NP, including The Gap and Natural Bridge with their outstanding views of the Southern Ocean and some of WA’s most exposed coastline 40m below! Then off to stunning Frenchman's Bay and the old historic Whaling Station.

    Fun Fact: The Cheynes Beach Whaling Company was the last whaling company to cease operations in Australia, closing in 1978.

    Interestingly, we've learned that 'up' - a suffix commonly found in place names in south-western Western Australia - means "place of" in the local Noongar dialect. Places tended to be named after their distinctive features, whereby the place names could be used to create a 'mental map' allowing Indigenous Australians to determine where water, food and other raw materials could be found. These sites were often located near sources of fresh water, leading to the common misconception that 'up' means "near water".

    In this case, Torndirrup - meaning ‘white sandy’ or 'place of white sand hills' - is a fitting description of this spectacular area of coastline, with its dazzling powder-fine (almost) pure quartz dunes and beaches.

    After returning to Albany and checking in at the BIG4 Middleton Beach we drove up to the National ANZAC Centre and Memorial with just enough time to absorb the stunning views over the town and port before heading back to the van for ‘happy hour’ with Lou, Harry and Darcey.
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  • Albany WA

    2 april 2023, Australië ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Another spectacular WA day spent exploring the sights around Albany.

    First on the list of adventures was Granite SkyWalk at Castle Rock in the Porongurup NP. A challenging 2.2 km steep uphill climb with the last part being a literal scramble over big granite boulders and up a ladder to the top. But what a view - a complete 360 degree panorama of the surrounding countryside! It was definitely worth it but my legs are surely feeling it now.

    A quick detour back to Lou's place to pick up the caravan and we're off again to explore some more of beautiful Albany...
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  • Napier WA

    1 april 2023, Australië ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Today’s drive from Esperance to Albany felt like the longest of our trip so far. We passed some picturesque farm lands and silo art, along with some large areas of burnt out bush. It was interesting to see the regrowth of the native ‘BlackBoys’ (grass trees).

    But the highlight for the day was our long awaited catch-up with Louise, Harry and Darcey who generously hosted us at their fabulous farm just 20 mins outside of Albany. Sadly we missed Matt by a few days, but his presence was nonetheless felt and certainly appreciated through his amazing beer fridge (we especially loved the ginger beer!). We spent a lovely evening exploring the farm and chatting over dinner.

    Absolutely Lachlan’s highlight of the stay was Harry taking him out for a spin on both the ‘side-by-side’ and quad bike, and bravely letting him drive! The smile on Lachie’s face was priceless. Big thanks Harry - you made his day. He’s still talking about it.

    To top it off, we’ve come away with some amazing fresh farm produce - crunchy red apples, delicious pears, free range eggs and the best figs I’ve ever tasted. So welcome after having to travel without fresh fruit and veges as we crossed the State borders.
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  • Cape Le Grande NP

    31 maart 2023, Australië ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

    Today was another superb bucket-list day exploring the many bays and beaches of beautiful Cape Le Grande National Park. With its super fine white sand and magical turquoise waters, it really is proof that Australia has the best beaches in the world. Highlights included:

    * Frenchman's Peak - A rocky mountain outcrop, the shape of which was thought to resemble the hats worn by French troops in the 1800s (debatable).

    * Lucky Bay - An absolute stunner! It was easy to see how it got its reputation as the best beach in Western Australia. Lachie's highlight here was driving onto the beach itself. I was disappointed not to see a kangaroo on the beach (something it's also famed for). We just weren't there are the right time.

    * Thistle Cove & Whistling Rock - An imposing rock formation that echoed the sound of the sea and waves crashing on the rugged coastline below.

    * Hellfire Bay - A beautiful surf beach, with impossibly white sand and crystal clear turquoise water.

    *Cape Le Grande - Again we were able to drive onto the beach where we ate our picnic lunch from the back of the car. A lovely couple driving past stopped and offered to take our photo. Turns out they were also originally from Sydney (Bella Vista of all places) and are staying in the same caravan park as us. Small world.

    After leaving the NP we checked out Esperance Stonehenge, a complete full-size replica of the original UK monument. Apparently, it was the brainchild of some crazy businessman who planned for it to be constructed in Margaret River. Not surprisingly, he went bankrupt but not before all 137 enormous granite stones had been quarried from a site near Esperance. Fortunately, there was another crazy entrepreneur who completed the project on his farm 'conveniently' located nearby to the quarry.

    Fun Fact: Lachlan calculated each stone to weigh roughly as much as 25 of our caravans. Home school 'tick' for today.

    Heading back into town we stopped for a tasting paddle at the Lucky Bay Brewery, all apparently made with their own distilled water.
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  • Esperance WA

    30 maart 2023, Australië ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Today we officially left the Nullarbor and started our tour around the beautiful south of WA.

    First rest stop on-route was Norseman at the junction of the Eyre Highway and Coolgardie-Esperance Highway. It was a hive of road-train activity including a massive quadruple, the biggest we’ve seen. Fortunately they mostly headed north towards Kalgoorlie - we’ll encounter them on our way home no doubt.

    Today was an easy travel day and relatively uneventful compared to the previous few we’ve had, with nothing particular to report.

    We rolled into Esperance and checked in at the RAC Esperance Caravan Park. Wow! The facilities are spectacular, up there with some of the best we’ve experienced. Our site has its own ensuite bathroom with a huge double sized shower, while the camp kitchen is fully equipped to commercial standards and embarrassingly perhaps better than our own kitchen at home. Plus it’s right opposite the beach. Lucky we booked ahead (9 months ago!) as there’s a big sign stating no vacancies for caravans.

    We drove out to look at ‘Pink Lake’ just out of town. Unfortunately, the information boards at the lookout confirmed it hasn’t been pink since 2007. This intel would have been good before going out there. However, they say it may become pink again when the water temperature and salinity levels create the correct circumstances. I doubt we’ll be back.

    We explored around town and along the waterfront before retreating for the night. Looking forward to exploring Cape Le Grande NP tomorrow.
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  • Balladonia WA

    29 maart 2023, Australië ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Today we continued our crossing of the Nullarbor, including the iconic 90 Mile Straight – Australia’s longest straight road (146.6 km). Anyone who thinks this is a boring drive with nothing to see or do must be travelling with their eyes closed. We’ve loved every bit of it and could have even spent an extra day just hanging out at the cliffs! There’s just so much to appreciate about this beautiful country.

    The scenery has changed several times as the highway moved from within a few hundred metres of the coastline to alongside a small mountain range (something we didn’t expect), through pockets of green shrubbery (and dare I say trees) to the iconic treeless plains by which the Nullarbor gets its name. And it’s not entirely flat either, there’s some beautiful lookouts and views. Who knew?

    There’s also other interesting finds, like the emergency landing strips for the Royal Flying Doctor Service down the middle of the highway, random electric vehicle charging points, and all sorts of crazy travellers!

    It’s apparently been quite wet out here recently and puddles are aplenty. Consequently Lachlan is obsessed with driving through mud. He even draw a picture of his dream at dinner last night.

    Tonight we headed for Balladonia, made ‘famous’ as the crash site of NASA’s Skylab space station in 1979. We set up in the Caravan Park beside the roadhouse before exploring the museum and braving the ‘Skylab’ hole of the Nullarbor Links Golf Course. As we found out this is a genuinely challenging Par 3 where accuracy is everything! We were not accurate and spent the next 10 minutes looking for our ball while donating blood one giant mosquito at a time.

    Fun Fact: There was much hilarity when the local Shire Council sent a littering fine to NASA to clean up the fiery chunks of debris that had landed around Balladonia as Skylab re-entered the Earth’s atmosphere. It is also claimed that President Jimmy Carter subsequently rang the roadhouse to apologise for littering the local area.
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  • Eucla WA

    28 maart 2023, Australië ⋅ 🌬 22 °C

    Today has been a real bucket list highlights package. Everything as good if not better than imagined. It was also a day of BIG things: Big Windmill, Big Whale and Big Rooey II.

    Just past the big windmill (Comet) at Penong we commenced our first epic crossing of the Nullarbor Plain. We are amazed at how busy the highway is. We’re continually passing and being passed by caravans, road trains and cyclists would you believe!

    We explored the Head of the Bight Visitor Centre where a series of boardwalks and viewing platforms hang out over the cliffs providing views in all directions. We then stopped at the iconic Nullarbor Roadhouse with the big whale.

    But the absolute highlight of the day was venturing out to the Bunda Cliffs (the longest uninterrupted line of sea cliffs in the world) where we pulled up literally metres from the edge of the continent. The coastline here is spectacular and we even spotted a pod of dolphins playing in the sparkling blue water below. Amazing!

    We pushed on through our second quarantine checkpoint to cross the border into WA. The WA inspection was very relaxed compared to SA. They took our word about no fresh food and were really only concerned about no honey entering WA, whereas at the SA border they literally checked every bag and cupboard in both car and caravan!

    Just beyond the WA border we quickly checked out the ruins of the Old Eucla Telegraph Station, once a pivotal link in cross-country communications now slowly being reclaimed by the sand dunes, before settling in at Eucla Caravan Park for the night.

    Who knows what time we’ll go to bed tonight - having passed through three different time zones today our devices are scrambling to keep up. But who cares - we’re on holidays. What a day! 😊
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  • Ceduna SA

    27 maart 2023, Australië ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    A drizzly and frustrating morning stuck doing 60km/hr behind an oversized load - a train on a truck of all things (a literal road train) - between Iron Knob and Kimba, just outside of Port Augusta. On the plus side we had plenty of time to refine our car karaoke skills and to take in the practicality prehistoric landscape we were travelling through.

    We stopped in Kimba at the Big Gallah Bakery, marking the halfway point between the east and west coasts of Australia. The pies were good but we know for our return trip not to bother with the coffee.

    Meanwhile the oversized load crawled past and once again we were stuck behind doing 60 km/hr. However it was interesting listening to the chatter and guidance from the pilot vehicle on the UHF radio as we patiently waited for the all-clear to overtake.

    Tonight we’re staying at the BIG4 Ceduna ‘Classic’ Caravan Park. It’s neat and tidy and almost completely full. I’m glad we booked ahead as people were being turned away as we checked in.

    Ceduna is a lovely town. It’s like we popped out of the vast lands of SA to a little seaside oasis (all two streets worth at least).

    After a wander around town we indulged in a delicious SA seafood platter at the Ceduna Foreshore Hotel Motel. It did not disappoint. We will sleep well tonight ready to hit the Nullarbor tomorrow.

    Today’s lesson: Always fill up with diesel when you can as there’s no guarantee the next mapped fuel stop exists or even has supply!

    Fun Fact: Ceduna is known as the ‘Gateway to the Nullarbor’ (at least on approach from the east) and is somewhat famous as the opening hole of the ‘Nullarbor Links’ – the world’s longest golf course, where you definitely need a car to get across ‘the green’.
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  • Port Augusta SA

    26 maart 2023, Australië ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    An interesting travel day today as we zig-zagged our way to Port Augusta via a string of little towns, some quaint and historically charming, others lucky to warrant a dot on the map.

    We stopped just outside the town of Burra at a worn out old homestead made famous on the cover of Midnight Oil’s Diesel & Dust album.

    We learned about Goyder's Line as we crossed it - a line that runs roughly east-west across South Australia and, in effect, joins places with an average annual rainfall of 10 inches. North of Goyder's Line, annual rainfall is usually too low to support cropping, with the land being suitable only for grazing. Who knew?

    We also navigated past our first quadruple road train. Yikes!

    South Australia is clearly leading our nation in renewable energy as we passed two giant solar farms and multiple wind turbines. Plus we discovered Port Augusta has our only SunDrop which uses solar energy to desalinate water.

    Tonight’s accommodation is at Discovery Park Port Augusta, which I’m pleased to say is punching above its weight for this town. It’s pretty full too and we’ve met some fellow travellers from all states. Wish us luck with the ‘locals’ tonight…

    Fun fact: Port Augusta is known as the Crossroads of Australia. If you head north on the Stuart Highway, some 2,722 km later you will be driving into Darwin. Head west on the Eyre Highway and 2,390 km (after you have crossed the Nullarbor Plain) you will reach Perth. Head east, via Broken Hill, and 1,561 km later you’ll be in Sydney and, almost as an afterthought, you can head south and in a mere 310 km you’ll reach Adelaide. Port Augusta really does sit at a crossroads and, by strange serendipity, the roads really do head to the primary points of the compass – north, south, east and west.
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  • Renmark SA

    25 maart 2023, Australië ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Three states in one day - NSW, VIC and SA!

    We cruised through Hay, Balranald (where we stopped for lunch by the
    Murrumbidgee River) and Mildura, passed inspection at the SA Quarantine Checkpoint, then onto Renmark for the night, where we stayed at the magnificent BIG4 Riverfront Caravan Park. Dusk overlooking the river was magic.

    We will definitely remember Renmark for the nail-bitingly narrow bridge into town. With a total width allowance of just 3m, there’s not much wiggle room either side for the caravan. I’m proud to say our driver handled it like a pro.

    Dinner at Club Renmark was also spectacular overlooking the mighty Murray River. Interesting to hear the December 2022 flood peaked at just below the height of the balcony where we were dining, which itself is about 4-5 meters above normal river level.

    Morning coffee and a quick dip of our toes in the Murray River and we’re off again towards Port Augusta.
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  • Narrandera NSW

    24 maart 2023, Australië ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    It’s good to be in our happy place on the road again.

    We had a smooth run through Yass and Wagga Wagga to Narrandera for the night, staying at Lake Talbot Caravan Park where we scored a beautiful grassy (drive-through) slab site overlooking the lake.

    Our reception couldn’t have been better. At check-in we were greeted with a surprise gift (and I dare say preferential treatment) courtesy of our amazing neighbours who call Narrandera home. Happy hour was sorted for night one and we couldn’t be off to a better start to our holiday!

    Our new mate Chris at reception then gave us a hot tip for dinner at the Ex-Serviceman’s Club and even sorted us a courtesy bus. The steak was delicious. It just keeps getting better.

    Sadly just a short overnight stop in this lovely country town before we head west again in the morning.

    Already we’re missing Josh and Ryan but take comfort in knowing they’re in good hands and look forward to reuniting with them in Perth in a couple of weeks time.
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  • Ready to Roll

    23 maart 2023, Australië ⋅ 🌧 25 °C

    After 12 months of planning and anticipation, tomorrow is finally D-Day!

    Our home for the next (nearly) 8 weeks is packed and ready to go - not to mention probably the most organised it will ever be.

    Featuring:
    * 4 ‘bedrooms’ with built in wardrobes
    * Combined bath/laundry
    * Open plan kitchen & dining
    * Expansive outdoor living
    All in an easy to maintain layout offering comfort and versatility in convenient locations with ever-changing views.

    Let the adventure begin!
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  • The Journey starts here

    7 september 2022, Australië ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Today is an exciting day as we take possession of our new home away from home. The faithful old ‘Panda’ (Expanda) has been sold to make way for our shiny new ‘Journey’.

    We will no doubt miss the generous space and versatility of the tardis-like Expanda, but it’s time to go longer and further and to more remote places, so we’ve gone all-in and upgraded to full travel luxury, comparatively speaking of course. With no pop-outs or build-it-yourself parts (even the awning is automatic!) we hope that even less time and effort spent setting up the caravan means more time enjoying our trip – although our travel buddies may miss the spectacle of a good domestic during the setting-up-of the-campsite process. 😉

    There’s a few things that are new to us with this van that we’ll need to get used to and figure out as we go – like how many pies will fit in the oven at once, how many socks and undies can we squeeze into a single washing machine cycle, how do we empty the grey water tank and most importantly how to avoid splashback at the dump point!

    The challenge now is to pack and figure out where everything goes. It’s more involved than it first appears. This van is heavier than our last, so we’re necessarily more conscious of weight and the need to pack appropriately. Its easy to do and we’re all a little bit guilty of packing more than needed ‘just in case’. I was amazed how much stuff we had accumulated in the Expanda! There will definitely be a cull as we re-pack the Journey in favour of the pragmatic ‘less-is-more’ philosophy.

    To the boys’ amusement, I have channelled my inner nerd and created a spreadsheet to calculate the weight of each item that goes back in – from BBQ (16 kg) to 5 x toothbrushes (0.02 kg) and everything in between. Of course, a few things are non-negotiable like coffee machine (9 kg) and case of wine (14 kg) – ok maybe two cases, we are going to Margaret River!

    So far, we’re theoretically under our ATM with full water tanks and gas bottles, but with food and clothes still to come… I’ve also calculated our GVM and GCM with all five of us in the car. Again, we’re looking good and dare I say even have capacity to put on weight, which I’m pretty sure is inevitable. Regardless, a quick roll over a weighbridge is on the agenda before we head off, just to be sure.

    It’s not for everyone, but we’re excited for where our ‘Journey’ will take us. Now it’s off to K-Mart to ‘Marie Kondo’ it with storage solutions.
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  • Plans Evolving

    26 juli 2022, Australië ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Welcome to McDermotts Travel Oz - our very own holiday journal where we will attempt to capture the joy, excitement and special meaning that our travels bring to our life and family. And because we’re not all perfect, it will likely also document (some of) the tears, fears and ‘frustrations’ we inevitably experience along the way.

    This chapter will narrate our epic trans-continental road trip, with the excuse of celebrating both Anthony and Daniel's 50th birthdays (the original Hawaii 5-0 proposal was an early victim of the Covid-19 pandemic). Domestic travel for the win!

    It's evolving as a 'half-lap' of Australia from east to west (and back again), covering an estimated distance of more than 10,000 kilometres, where we will visit and witness some of our country’s most famous regions and places as we go, including:
    • Riverina Region of south-western NSW
    • Rural Riverland areas of VIC and SA
    • Far-west Coastal Region of SA
    • Great treeless Nullarbor Plain
    • Amazing sea cliffs of the Great Australian Bight
    • Goldfields-Esperance Region of WA
    • Coastal and cultural beauty of the Great Southern Region of WA
    • Majestic old-growth forests of south-west WA
    • World-renowned food, wine and beaches of the Margaret River Region of WA
    • Perth and Rottnest Island WA
    • Coral Coast Region of WA
    • Wheatbelt Region of WA
    • "Crossroads" of Australia
    • Outback NSW

    Our itinerary is shaping up nicely, though I am astounded how far ahead some places are booked out. Who knew WA’s Coral Coast is so in demand that accommodation and tours need to be booked 12 months in advance! It doesn’t help that astronomers have pinpointed Exmouth as the best land-based place in the world to witness the alignment of the sun, moon and earth in the upcoming April 2023 Ningaloo Eclipse, attracting umbraphiles (eclipse chasers – aka science nerds) from everywhere to the region. But more about this highly anticipated 1 minute, 16 second event later…

    Fortunately for now, our partners in travel crime, Daniel Giffney and Helen Budd, have us sorted for the Perth to Exmouth return leg of our adventure, booking in accommodation and several of our 'bucket list' activities including swim tours with Whale Sharks, Manta Rays and Dolphins.

    We also continue to refine our Sydney to Perth route - including the scenic south of WA, and confirm our return ‘sprint’ from Perth to Sydney - mixing it up via Wave Rock, Kalgoorlie, Streaky Bay and Broken Hill.

    Our adventure hasn't officially started yet and is still a way off. We will not be leaving until March 2023. But that doesn't mean there's not lots to plan and get excited about in the meantime.
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  • Siding Springs Observatory

    15 april 2021, Australië ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Known as the ‘Gateway to the Warrumbungles’ and the ‘Astronomy Capital of Australia’, Coonabarabran is a mix of natural beauty and science.

    The Solar System Drive, a scale model of the solar system that stretches for over 200 km, was a fun and unexpected way to track our journey through the cosmos as we made our way up the mountain to the Siding Spring Observatory. Starting from the Sun in town and ending at Pluto near the observatory, each planet has its own roadside sign and model, scaled both in size and distance.

    We explored the Visitor Centre, with its interactive displays and a short film, before joining a guided tour of the 3.9m Anglo-Australian Telescope, Australia’s largest optical telescope. The view from the top was fantastic, a full 360° panorama of the surrounding countryside, albeit deceptively chilly.
    An impromptu selfie in the car park with my own real-life superstar Liz Ellis, was definitely a highlight!

    As the sun set, we visited the Dark Sky Observatory for a 90-minute stargazing session, including a live astronomy presentation and the chance to look through up to six telescopes, including a 20-inch scope. The sky was perfectly clear, making the Milky Way feel close enough to touch.
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  • Green Car Door Tour

    13 april 2021, Australië ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    This afternoon we completed the Green Car Door Tour, with highlights including the iconic Opal Tree, Stone Labyrinth (reportedly made by just four people in six hours) and Beer Can House (look us up in the guest book in the fridge inside).

    It was at the Opal Tree that we stumbled upon Richard, an English-born eccentric (aka madman) who’s made this wacky corner of the outback home for more than 17 years. Next to his roadside Love Shack ‘Enlightning Ridge’, Richard’s pièce de résistance would have to be his towering milk crate robot covered in teddy bears, built as a tribute to his emotionally repressed great-grandfather - actually creepier than it sounds. Richard was equal parts fascinating, amusing and unsettling. But either way, a true character who fit right in with the wonderfully weird vibe of Lightning Ridge.

    As the sky faded into dusk, we headed to Nettleton's First Shaft Lookout for a magnificent sunset happy hour overlooking the vast desert plains of outback NSW. We all agreed you don’t just visit Lightning Ridge, you experience it.

    Fun fact: Lightning supposedly never strikes twice but one fateful evening in the 1870s, a beleaguered shepherd, his dog and a flock of more than 200 sheep were peppered with lightning strikes as they sheltered among trees, charring like minute steaks on a piping-hot barbecue. Folklore says this is how Lightning Ridge earned its name.
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  • Blue & Red Car Door Tours

    13 april 2021, Australië ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    This morning, we completed the Blue and Red Car Door Tours.

    First up - Blue Tour. We headed out through the opal mine fields, locally known as 'the suburbs', before stopping briefly to explore Bevan's Cactus Garden with over 2,500 cactus varieties and 48 Bougainvillea varieties. Interesting, but not really our thing.

    Next up was the Walk-in Mine Tour. This was pretty cool and being self-guided meant we could move at our own pace.

    Being one of the shorter Car Door Tours, we quickly moved on to the Red Tour. We passed the plaque sharing information on the first settlement in 1906 called Wallangulla or 'Old Town', which is where the first Opal Rush boomed. We then stopped to marvel at the Stone & Bottle House - an interestingly constructed private home made entirely of, would you believe, stones and bottles, and filled with collectables!

    Just a bit further along the road we stopped to explore the Ridge Castle. It was in fact an Airbnb property, but as with most things in Lightning Ridge, it wasn't your typical lodging.

    Moving on, we noted some other interesting sights including Sim’s Hill - the highest point in the district, astronomers' monument - a very cool homemade observatory, and a KFC Drive-thru (although it never seems to be open LOL).

    But the highlight of this tour was definitely Amigos Castle - a unique and fascinating private home. The castle was built by Vittorio Stefanato, also known as Amigo, who was born in Italy and moved to Australia in 1970. The castle is built with stones and planks, and Amigo has been expanding it since 1982. The castle sits atop dinosaur bones that are millions of years old - not officially catalogued but locally known as 'Amigosaurus'.

    The underground tunnels and secrets of the Castle were closed the day we were there as it turns out Amigo had been sentenced to at least 13 years and seven months in jail for murdering a local woman in January 2020. He shot her point blank with a rifle after she asked him for money and then hid her body in the bushland. He pleaded guilty to the murder in October 2021. I think I'm glad we missed his 'private' tour!
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  • Orange Car Door Tour

    12 april 2021, Australië ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    Today we conquered the Orange Car Door Tour which took us an hour's drive west of town to the famous Grawin, Glengary and Sheepyard opal fields. If you thought Lightning Ridge was in the middle of nowhere, you haven't been to Grawin!

    Unlike the native bush environment around Lightning Ridge, the landscape across this region is rugged, comparable to the surface of the moon, dusty and barren, just waiting to be unearthed. Here, most opals are discovered wedged between layers of opal bearing clay and stone, known as seam opals.

    First stop - Club in the Scrub, a fantastically quirky and authentic Miners Sports Bar, complete with 'Beer & Bullsh*t' area. Who would believe it's an actual RSL club, and you’ve got to sign in!

    Next up, the Glengarry Hilton. Apparently, the outback pub was built to satisfy the thirsty needs of those who came to try their luck on the ever-popular opal fields in the 1970s. With very low expectations we braved lunch from the shipping-container kitchen, only to be served up perhaps the most succulently delicious burgers ever - even if there's a high possibility the patties were mouse meat!

    Moving on the boys indulged their noodling fever in the many piles of white dirt alongside buildings and the sides of roads. Unfortunately, the giant mullock heaps that have been known to present surprise pieces are now off-limits to the general public for safety reasons.

    Last on the tourist trail was Sheepyard Inn (jokingly referred to as ‘the best baaaaa in the outback’) with its eclectic collection of historical memorabilia, including an old train carriage that came from Sydney’s Taronga Zoo. And who could forget the impressive 'bra-tree'. I'll leave it to the imagination as to whether I made a donation ;)

    Finally, we stopped at the War Memorial, built by local miners, many of whom are Vietnam Veterans.

    Grawin was definitely a highlight and worth the day-trip for a glimpse of how Lightning Ridge itself probably would have been in the early days.
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  • Yellow Car Door Tour

    11 april 2021, Australië ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    Today we followed the Yellow Car Door Tour, a self-guided driving trail that took us through some of Lightning Ridge’s quirkiest and most iconic sights.

    First stop was the Big Opal Mine and Jewellery Store where we braved the self-guided underground tour – let’s just say the rusty spiral staircase made things feel very authentic! Interesting, though not exactly WHS approved.

    We also stopped at Lunatic Lookout, where you can gaze out across the mining fields and spot the air vents that lead down into the maze of mines below. This is also the spot where the legendary (and never found) “Halley’s Comet” black opal is said to be buried.

    The Miners’ Cottages offered a glimpse into early settler life, made from local stone and full of character.

    A definite highlight was the Chambers of the Black Hand, where we followed a guided tour through an old opal mine filled with amazing wall carvings. From Egyptian gods to superheroes, the art carved straight into the sandstone is impressive, weird, and wonderful. Many say it's the best attraction in Lightning Ridge, and we can see why.

    We also visited the under-construction Australian Opal Centre, a two-storey building built entirely underground, with big plans to become a world-class opal museum. Nearby, the Black Opal Heritage Shed and the Graveyard of Rusty Treasures gave us even more glimpses into Ridge history and mining life, with a collection of vintage trucks and machinery slowly returning to the earth.

    And just when we thought the day couldn’t get any more random, we posed for a 'selfie' with Stanley the Emu – a towering 18-metre sculpture made entirely from recycled materials, standing proudly by the Castlereagh Highway.

    A day of dust, underground adventures, and one very tall bird. Classic Lightning Ridge.
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