Camino Portuguese

March - April 2024
The last 120km from Valenca to Santiago de Compestela. Read more
  • 38footprints
  • 3countries
  • 11days
  • 423photos
  • 36videos
  • 2.7kkilometers
  • 2.4kkilometers
  • Day 3

    Pilgrims

    March 24 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    I set off from Mos at 7.18am. What was so interesting about that time was that I was the second to last left in my room to leave. I woke up at 5am with the Italian ladies getting ready to leave. They all made a big commotion and finally left at 6am. I laid there a bit more not wanting to get out into the cold. I knew also that the sun didn't rise until 7.30am and I didn't fancy walking solo in the dark. It's better if you have company for walking in the dark.

    Last night a German guy in the top bunk invited me to drink wine with him. I declined as I felt so knackered. I think I hurt his feelings as he was quite distant this morning.

    Walking out of Mos solo was great. I could see 2 pilgrims ahead and I didn't even pay attention to the markers until I lost them as I was taking so many pics. I'm still finding it interesting to walk solo as I thought people would be more chatty. I pass people on my route but except for a bom Camino and smile we pass each other.

    When I was particularly pondering my alone state a Portuguese pair passed me. They were walking quite fast but slowed down enough to ask where I'm from. Naturally I always say I'm from the Bahamas 🇧🇸 but living in London. They love that they have met someone from the Bahamas as that's their dream holiday and ask if they can take a picture with me. I say, of course as long as I get one with them as well as they are my 1st Portuguese folk I've met on my Camino Portuguese 🧡
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  • Day 3

    Rendolula

    March 24 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    I continue walking on my own. It's beautiful amongst the trees. I'm loving this now as The walk started quite residential. The walk is now getting quite hilly. Very steep inclines as well as declines. I can't believe how hard going this is! It's really tough walking and my hips hate going down. Surprisingly down hurts more than up.

    I pass a cafe where everyone that left this morning before me has stopped to have breakfast. I say hi to my German bunk mate and he blanks me... definitely annoyed. Well it's not my problem. I try to get a coffee but it's too busy in there so I just get a stamp. I keep walking and come across a pilgrim cutout. Perfect selfie opportunity. As I pass those ones that set off before me I remember the tortoise and hare tale, I'm slow but steady so make it in my own time. I've passed those ones ahead of me just going at my own pace. No need to rush, I'll get there.
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  • Day 3

    Up

    March 24 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    This walk is intense! There are so many steep hills to climb. I get to this space where its 70m at 15% incline or 360m at 5% incline. I choose the latter. I can't face another intense incline. My knees and hips are screaming at my. I can't believe it's just day 2 of walking.

    The views are beautiful though. Thus section of the Camino seems new. There are way markers but the font have the distance recorded in them yet. I'm glad for the route though. Its beautiful, in nature and keeps us away from walking along the highway.

    I pass two separate vendors selling bits on the trail. They even offer ti stamp my credentials. I don't buy anything but I do get one stamp.
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  • Day 3

    Arcade

    March 24 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    I'm in Arcade finally! First things first, get a cafe solo. Ive found out thats how to order an espresso shot, lovely. This was supposed to be a short walking day. I still managed to get in a lot of steps though. The accommodation is nice. I get a blanket this time and curtains on the bed. Nice 🤗

    Arcade is a lovely river centered town. There is a cute one car lane bride that connects it with other towns. There is a good system in place for cars crossing the bridge.

    Arcade is known for oysters and this special wine. I get turned away from 3 restaurants until coming across one that's not full. The waiter says the wine I want isn't available by the glass so I have to buy a whole bottle. Ah well, I can't be bothered yo find another place. The oysters are salty, which is surprising. The wine is average. Not something I'd rush to have again.

    Tonight I meet a Canadian mum and daughter duo. They are staying st the same albergue as me. We end up going to dinner together. So my day started with a Portuguese set of pilgrims who weren't super chatty then ended with Canadian pair who were chatty and lovely to have a meal with.

    Today's tally is just over 38,000 strps and 25km.
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  • Day 4

    Intentions

    March 25 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    I set off from Arcade at 7.08am. I'm a bit scared as the sun is not up yet but the forecast is for rain at 10am and I want to get to my next stop before then. Google says I have 2.5hrs to walk to my next accommodation of I take their route, the Camino however takes a route that goes through wooded areas to avoid the streets as much as possible so I know it'll take a bit longer. I don't like walking in mud so off I go. 2 male pilgrims leave the albergue before me so I know there will at least be fellow pilgrims on the trail. Also 3 females are preparing to set off after me so there will be followers soon.

    It's pretty dark when I set off and the route goes up some stairs. What a way to start off! Soon I leave the town behind and start in the woods. Time to start taking pics of myself before the trail gets busy. Another pilgrim speeds past me. What kind of pace do some of them make! Are they even enjoying the surroundings? They make it seem like exercise. Either way everyone has their own way of doing the Camino.

    Then I start thinking of what I want out of today. Christaff gave me the great idea to have an intention for what I'd like at the end of the day. This helps to focus my mind and reinforces that the manifestion works. My last 2 days I've actually gotten what I asked for at the end of the day. We'll see if today is the same. I set my intention and keep walking.
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  • Day 4

    Stamp

    March 25 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    This section of the Camino is so beautiful. There are slight hills and I'm surrounded by moss covered trees. This route is different than what's mapped out on my app. I've read that the Camino keeps getting updated as the original way now is built up with highways and other undesirable areas for walking.

    That's understandable as the way original pilgrims walked probably was the best for businesses to open up. An enterprising woman has a stand on this new way. She offers to stamp your credentials and I'm sure many pilgrims like myself feel like we should buy something in exchange. I get a 1€ coffee. It's definitely instant coffee and not great but I've got my 1st stamp of the day.
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  • Day 4

    Speed or beauty

    March 25 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    I arrive at a place where I have to choose whether to walk the original road or divert to the woods. The new woods walk is always longer than the original route but it takes you along nature paths. This one follows a river. Its intensely beautiful in the back there. The path is super muddy in parts as well. I'm jumping over huge mud patches and navigating through the trees. I pass cows and horses grazing. As I pass them I call out to them and they look up. Its so cute, I'm sure they understand from my tone alone that I think they are beautiful and I want to stroke their hair.

    Towards the end there are a few patches of colourful graffiti. It's such a contrast from the trees and waterfalls. It starts to rain lightly and I get worried about my choice to follow the longer more beautiful path. I might get caught by the rain and have to trek through mud. Thankfully it didn't start raining hard and I made it through this gorgeous tunnel emerging out to my final destination for the day. Only thing left now is to find my albergue.
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  • Day 4

    Pontevedra

    March 25 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    I follow the Camino until I get to point where I turn off for the albergue. I arrive there at 10am and check-in is not until 1pm. I buzz the door anyway and ask if I can leave my bag. Thankfully they agree and I deposit my bag and wonder out exploring.

    I figure I should find the Virxe Pelegrina cathedral. It's now properly raining and cold. I'm not keen to explore. I just want to lay in bed and get warm. The cathedral is built to be in the shape of the pilgrims shell. From the inside you can see the roundness of the building. For 1€ you can climb 60+ steps to a viewing balcony that circles the place. I get my credential stamped and pay the fee to walk to the top. I instantly question my decision to climb when my body feels broken. There is a half way break going up where there are some benches. At the top there are these creepy children dolls and lots of memorabilia. If it was darker I'd be spooked. I venture out on the balcony. It's scary high and narrow. I make a complete circle around the cathedral then head back down.

    I still have another 2hrs to kill so I go to another cathedral wonder around all the Easter statues for the pending celebrations. Then I find a cafe to sit and wait out the time in warmth. I have my 1st sweet for the trip and a proper coffee this time.

    I check in to the albergue at 1pm sharp. I'm the 1st person here. The bed is like a cocoon with a privacy curtain and boxed in all around. This place is super clean. I'm in an all female room. The Canadian mum and daughter pair show up and hour afterwards. It's lovely to see them. They're really friendly and chatty so it's nice being around them.

    Today was an easy walking day. Only 13km scheduled but because of the way the Camino avoids the direct route I end up clocking in 21km and just over 30,000 steps.
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  • Day 5

    Rain

    March 26 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    Day 4 of walking. Today is scheduled to be a longer day than yesterday and finally the weather forecast has turned to rain all day. I've been dreading this but knew it was a possibility. A couple of weeks ago it was scheduled to rain the whole trip so I'm grateful that I atleast got a few days of hot sunny weather at the start. All the weather apps say it should be relatively dry until around noon so I think a few of us planned our day to start early.

    Leaving the albergue this morning the common area was full of people organising themselves to set out around 6.30am. Some even got on the road before me. I left at 7.10am. The sun was not up yet but as there were so many pilgrims on the way I didn't have any apprehensive in setting off in the dark.

    Walking out of Pontevedra was very residential. Lots of streets to cross and beautiful houses. I enjoyed starting off with road walking as it is easier on my hips as I don't have to adjust so much for the uneven surface. Around 7.40 it starts a light sprinkle of rain. The pilgrims with ponchos start pulling them on. I have a poncho I got from a London bus tour years ago and I put that on as well. 8am the skies open up and its raining!
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  • Day 5

    60km

    March 26 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    I like seeing the way markers with simple kilometres mapped out. 60km seems like a nice milestone. A lot of the way markers would have numbers like 60.250kms or 67.880kms. Why would you choose to put a marker ar such random distances???

    I'm taking my opportunities when I can to take pictures. It's raining off and on with various levels of hardness. The trail goes off road to some beautiful paths. I set up my tripod constantly to get a picture of myself when it clears up a bit. This one couple pass me and I say hello and the lady pulls a face at me looking at my tripod in disgust. I brush it off, this is my Camino and if I want to document it with a million pictures I will. Since the brain injury my short term memory isn't great and I'm getting older so I know my memory as a whole will continue to deteriorate. I smile and wish them a Buen Camino each time I pass them after they 1st pass me while I'm taking a photo.

    There are some breathtakingly beautiful patches of woods in this section. Covered in this lush moss and looking like a fairytale. There are little streams of water, mini waterfalls, fallen trees with dark brown trunks and green moss. I kept saying wow out loud over and over. If it wasn't raining so much I'd of had a full photoshoot in the back there.
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