• Eline Freim
Currently traveling
Jan 2018 – Sep 2025

Backpacking in South America

An open-ended adventure by Eline Read more
  • Buenos Aires and Japanese garden

    March 14, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    I arrived late yesterday at my couchsurfing hosts place. He had made me a sign and left a map and chocolate in my room, so nice of him! I went with him to Evita museo/restaurant and had a birthday lunch with him and two collegues. It was a very nice place, and we had a lovely lunch.

    After lunch I met with Jonathan, which I met in Villa La Angostura almost two months ago. It was so nice to see him again!

    We went to the japanese garden, a small and beautiful botanical garden. We were not there for a long time before the sky opened up and heavy rain and thunderstorm took over for the sunshine. We went to sit down for a long while to wait for it to pass.

    After this we was going to another park close by, but it was closed. We went to a coffeshop and got some hot drinks, as we were soaking wet and not dressed for the weather at all.

    I was looking forward to going from Patagonia to sunshine and stable weather, I guess that will have to wait another day :p
    Read more

  • Bye Ushuaia

    March 13, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    Goodbye to the end of the world! It has been a pleasure ❤️

    Spent the day going to a cafe with some people to have lunch. After we walked the harbour to make a birthday video to the mom of one of the girls in the hostel.

    Such a beautiful day, with fresh snow on the mountain tops.

    It was hard to say goodbye, and I left with a heavy heart and teary eyes. My flight left at 20 for Buenos Aires.
    Read more

  • Tierra del Fuego National Park

    March 12, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    I went on a hike in the national park today, and chose the trail «Guanaco» that is the hardest one. It is probably true, as the whole hike is very steep! It was challenging, but in a good way. As this was my last hike in Patagonia I decided to push my body and see how much my fitness level have improved since I arrived South America 2 months ago. I can really feel the change, which is nice! I walked quite fast for the whole trip, and the last 500 metres to the top was hard as my energy started to fade.

    The view from the top was breathtaking! This is definitely one of top three hikes in Patagonia for me. I loved it! At the top I could watch rainly clouds come closer, so I started the walk down together with a German guy. It didn’t take long before the hail hit us. The rapid change in the weather here still shocks me after 4 weeks. It was a nice and sunny day, and then suddenly you have hard and cold hail hitting your face.

    In the evening I went for empanadas.We have been using this empanada place almost every day. The empanadas is amazing!! I spent the night drinking wine and listening to amazing music with Cathrine, Matt and James. They are such good company.

    Tomorrow I will leave Ushuaia with a heavy heart after spending almost a week with some great people. I will miss them so much, especially Cathrine! Ushuaia has been amazing. I love the nature and all the hike possibilities here, and the people in the hostel was awesome.

    I only did two hikes here, wish I could do more. My legs are completely finished with hiking for a while, and the inflamation is painfull. I am glad I got to nice hikes, and I am so happy about my desicion to go to Ushuaia. The town in it self is not too nice, but the surrounding scenery is amazing.
    Read more

  • Laguna Temprano

    March 11, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Went on a hike with Cathrine, James and Matt today. We was told is was going to be a super easy hike, like a stroll in the park. Someone confused laguna Esmeralda and this one, I think :p

    It was quite steep, and definitely no walk in the park. The nature was beautiful though, and we saw a lot of wild horses. I loved that, they were so beautiful!

    At the top there was a laguna and a small glacier. It was pretty, but not very special after doing so many hikes in Patagonia. We had a great trip though, and the company was awesome! Three people I am really glad I met.
    Read more

  • Isla Martillo

    March 9, 2018, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☀️ -6 °C

    I went on a tour today with the company «Piratour». It is the most expensive of the pinguin tours, but the only company that offers the possibility to walk on the island.

    Luckily for me this other Norwegian girl from Bergen, Cathrine was going on the same trip. We met yesterday at the hostel, and it was nice to speak some norwegian again.

    The tours first stop was with the flag trees you can see in my last post. The wind can get up to 150 km/h here, which is crazy!!

    After that we went to a museum for sea mammols. It was really fascinating and cool to see all the huge sceletons.

    We went by boat to the pinguin island and saw a whale that was playing around on the way. Amazing sight!

    At the island we walked around and watched the cute little pinguins. We got very close, and one of them actually walked right over to my shoes. We got to see a emperor pinguin as well, it must have been lost because they are usually not in that area.

    After this we had a 2-3 hours lovely boatride with beautiful scenery down the beagle channel. We stoped at the famous lighthouse, a bird island and a sea lion island. I loved the last stop. They are so cool! Such a nice day, and I am glad I got to enjoy it with Cathrine!

    In the evening I cooked nachos for us and Sylvan and Patrick. Taco friday :D we had wine in the hostel, and it turned out to be an awesome night with a small disco and lots of fun. The hostel has so many nice people, I love the atmosphere here.
    Read more

  • Ushuaia

    March 8, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Arrived Ushuaia after 12 hours of bus from Puerto Natales yesterday.

    Staying in hostel Sur De Cruz, and the owner has a beautiful husky. I ended up talking a lot to him, as I was cuddeling his dog. Today he took me to a husky kennel here, with 135 huskys. It was such an amazing day! Happy international woman’s day to me. The dogs looked healthy and happy 👍

    And btw! We went there on a motorcycle. That was a lot of fun! The nature here is beautiful, and it was a good way of seeing some of the area around the city.

    The huskys are kissers! I was covered in mud when I left them. They were super social and loved to get cuddled.

    I got to try traditional patagonian lamb for lunch, which was delicious. It was the perfect start of my week in Ushuaia, as I should stay away from hiking some days now.
    Read more

  • Torres del paine

    March 6, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    I was suppost to get up and start hiking early to make sure I would be able to take the bus at 14 instead of 19. When I woke it was raining heavily, and I only had 3-4 hours of sleep. I ended up starting at 07.

    The weather cleared up, and I watched the sunrise from the a hill. My legs was still hurting from yesterday. Two bad knees, inflamation in the calves and four blisters - but some painkillers and blister bandate helped. I was able to keep a high tempo (I think you could call it powerwalk) the whole trip, and used 6 hours including 20 min at the top, and 20-30 minutes of getting lost.

    The last part there about getting lost was not very fun. Some of the rocky parts of the trip was not so good marked, and I ended up walking on the wrong rocky trail that was super steep. In the end there was no longer a trail, and I had to just walk through bushes to try to find the real trail. There was so much bushes with spikes and tornes, and my legs are red and scraped from it. After a while I could see the trail - far away. I had to go down a steep (I would guess 80 degree) hill with sand and stones. It was hard, and I had to focus a lot to not fall and roll down the whole thing. It was really exhausting, and I was pretty pissed when I finally reached the trail - that btw was flat and nice, and I was using all my energy of climbing uphill 😂

    I think the anger was good for my tempo, making me hike fast - and I was able to do the trek and get a shower before the bus at 14.00.

    I was told the hike was dificult and very steep, and I partly agree with it. I didn’t find it dificult, but there was a lot of steep parts, especially the last one. Luckily I have been on Pagagonian bootcamp for a while now, and my shape is much better than when I arrived this country. When I was 15 minutes from the top it started raining heavily and it got foggy and a lot of mist around the towers. I wish I left 30 minutes earlier (or just didn’t get lost!!). I got to see the whole thing anyways, just not in a nice and sunny weather.

    The view of the lake and the towes is nice, probably nicer when the sun is shining on the lake. But even though if the weather would have been perfect - I think I would not have thought of this is the most beautiful hike in the park. For me that was mirador britanico. The towers is the most famous one, and a lot of people go to the park just to do a dayhike of it. After four days hiking in El Chalten and seeing the Fitz Roy, I do not think a dayhike to TDP and the base of the towers would have been worth it for me. I am super happy I decided to go three days and got to see more of the park. Because the nature in the park is super beautiful!

    I got lucky with the weather the first two days, even though the winds was very strong there was no rain and clear views. Today it rained almost the whole way from the towers and back, but it was okay since I was leaving the park. The weather in Patagonia is very unstable and changing a lot, so you never know how it will be.

    My legs are dying and I am exhausted - but I‘ve had three beautiful days in the national park! I am super happy with my journey there. The nature was amazing, and I met some really nice people from Israel. I also met four norwegian girls, the first ones I’ve met here. It was strange speaking norwegian to them, and I actually started in english multiple times and had to switch back to norwegian. I am just so used to speaking english here (and some spanish of course). I was a bit suprised by my own reaction to it, how I could find it strange after only two months away from Norway. It’s not like I have forgotten the language - it was just strange to hear myself using it down here. I will have to blame it on being super tired after 26 km of hiking today.

    Tomorrow morning I will take the bus to my last stop in Patagonia - Ushuaia.
    Read more

  • Mirador Britanico

    March 5, 2018 in Chile ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    Got up at 06 and started hiking at 06.30 with Nadav from Israel. We started early to be able to go all the way to Mirador Britanico and back to Paine Grande to catch the catemaran. The hike is 13 km each way and they told us it would take 10-11 hours.

    The first part of the hike was to Camp Italiano, a very easy and nice walk. It was dark when we started, so we got to see the sunrise over the mountains and lake. Between camp Italiano and up to the first mirador (Frances) it was very steep. The mirador was beautiful with the view of the french valley and a mountain with multiple small glaciers. The wind there was crazy strong, and it was not possible to stay for a long time. It almost knocked me down on my butt more than one time.

    The hike between mirador Frances to Britanico was not too bad, but some parts of it very windy. The best parts was when walking in a forest that could shield us a bit from the wind.

    Wind like today and yesterday is completely normal here, but we would definitely call it a storm and tell people to stay in back in Norway.

    When we reached mirador Britanico the view was stunning! 180 degree of mountains in front of you. We stayed up there for a while taking some pictures and enjoying the view. The walk back was exhausting, especially the steep parts was bad for the knees. My legs are not happy with all this hiking, and the knees are telling my quite loudely that they need a break from walking down all those steep hills. I will give it to them soon, just finishing the journey in Patagonia first.

    We arrived to our next destination by boat and bus: Camp Torre central. Here I am staying in a fixed tent for one night. I arrived for dinner, which was nice. Both today and yesterday was a three course meal. I am not going to use the terms «camping» for my stay in TDP. Luxury camping that must be. After dinner I had wine and played card with four chicos from Israel. They taught me a new card game, and we had a good time! I won the game - quick learner, or new beginners luck ;)

    It was a really great day, even though my legs are killing my right now. It was worth it! Tomorrow morning I will do my last hike in this park to the base of the towers, the most famous one here. I’ve heard it is quite steep and should take 8 hours roundtrip. Good luck to my legs - you can do this!!
    Read more

  • Refugio Pine Grande

    March 4, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    I went on a bus at 07.30 arriving to Torres Del Paine national park together with every other person in Puerto Natales (or so it felt). Had to wait in line to buy a ticket for the park forever, and then wait for everybody from my bus to do the same.

    The bus drove us from Laguna Amarga (entrance and where you buy you ticket) to Pudeto, where you enter a catemaran that takes you over the lake. It leaves you with Camp Pine Grande, a beautiful place with a turqoise lake and mountain view. I am spending one night here in the refugio.

    The refugios in the park are very expensive, but I chose to spend one night in refugio (50USD) at Pine Grande, and then tent at Torre base camp tomorrow night.

    I ordered dinner for both nights, being in the generouse corner and treating myself. My three days in the park ended up to be very expensive, I hope it will be worth it. My body is getting quite tired after all the hiking in Patagonia, so I was an easy target for the more expensive options of the park :p
    Read more

  • Mirador Grey

    March 4, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    I went on a small hike to mirador Grey where you can see the Glacier Grey from a distance. My plan was to go all the way to Refuigo Grey and the mirador there, but the wind was extremly strong! It was going against me when going up, and it felt like pushing a wall the whole way. Very exhausting. The mirador was almost not possible to enter because of the wind, and trying to take photos of the glacier was almost funny - as it was impossible to keep the camera steady. I decided to turn around and return to the refugio.

    Glacier Grey was nice, but considering it’s only been three days since I visited Perito Moreno glacier - it was not super special for me. The most beautiful thing I saw today was actually the drive between Laguna Amarga and where you enter the catamaran. The nature was stunning, and I wish was in a car with the possibility to stop. There was also many lamas/alpakkas there, they are so cute!
    Read more

  • Puerto Natales

    March 3, 2018 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    Arrived here last night, quite late. Checked in to my hostel and went to sleep.

    Today I have spent the day getting info in Torres Del Paine. I ended up booking two nights in the national park, one in a refugio and one in a tent. I went with a expensive option, but because of the weather and me getting a bit exhausted from all the hiking, I decided it was for the best.

    I booked a bus ticket from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia on friday, because they don’t have buses on thursday. That means one day less in Ushuaia. My plane from there to Buenos Aires leaves at the 13 th of March.
    Read more

  • Perito Moreno Glacier

    March 1, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    I arrived in El Calafate and ended up going on a trip to Perito Moreno an hour after checking in to a hostel.

    I took a bus to the glacier, and then had 3 hours to spend there. I went on a boat trip for one hour, which was amazing. You get really close to this mighty glacier! There was a lot of blocks falling down to the lake, the sound was bouldering and loud.

    After the boattrip I only had one hour to do the walking trail, that was a bit too little and I had to rush a bit. But I am happy I did them both! It is necassary to go on the trails to get a view from above and see how big the glaciar actually is. The sight is magnificent!
    Read more

  • Bye bye Chaltén

    March 1, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    After 4 whole days in El Chaltén it is time to leave. I’ve been so lucky to have four perfect days for hiking, with such a good weather!

    El Chaltén has so far been the best destination in Patagonia. I did three hikes of 20 km, and all three of them was amazing! The nature and the mountains here are so mighty, and the town itself is very cosy and tranquilo.

    I’ve also been hanging out with some really great people, and hopefully I get to meet them again one day.

    I am so greatful for my stay in El Chaltén, but I am ready to see some more of south Patagonia now. The plan is to go to El Calafate -> Puerto Natales -> Punta Arenas -> Ushuaia. After that I will fly to Buenos Aires, enjoying some heat after Patagonia ;)
    Read more

  • Loma del Pliegue Tumbado

    February 28, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    The wind was really crazy last night and this morning, and we were a bit unsure about if we should hike or not today. Loma del Pliegue Tumbado is a mountain, and it is very hard to hike there if the wind is too strong. We decided to start, and see if the wind would calm down.

    We got really lucky, as the wind was no problem at all when we got a bit up from the town. The hike was 10 km each way, and I could feel my legs were a bit tired from the last hikes. The last km was straight up the mountain side, and I am happy no one else understands norwegian swear words! But I have to say the hike was very good, with so much beautiful nature surroundings.

    The view when we got to the top was absolutely stunning! It is the best hike I’ve had until now. You have a 360 degree view of all the surroundings of El Chaltén. After staying a while at the top the wind started to build up. We decided to go down, and that was probably wise. The wind got really strong, and some places I just had to sit down on my butt so I shouldn’t fall.

    We got so lucky with the weather, if we would have started one hour later we couldn’t have reached the top. It also got very cloudy and started raining around the mountains after we left. The wind was so strong that we got rain drops on us when we was 10 km away from the mountains and the clouds. Quite a strange feeling when the sky above you is blue and clear.

    After the hike me and Sylvain went to La Vineria for a couple of hours, chatting with other people and enjoying some wine. I was pretty exhausted and went to bed early after a great day!
    Read more

  • Laguna Torre

    February 27, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Me and Loisa decided to hike to Laguna Torre today, the hike is 10 km each way. The hike is nice and easy, with no parts being very steep or dificult. The nature here is beautiful, and the weather was perfect for hiking. Not to sunny, but still a clear sky and view of the mountains. Even though the hike is easy, my legs got pretty tired the last couple of kilometres. I am not used to hiking 20 km back home.

    In the evening we met with Jose at a cervezeria (Beergarden). Lovely place! It was Joses last night in El Chaltén. Will miss him and his crazy jokes! He showed me that friendships have no age limit :)
    Read more

  • Chorillo del Salto

    February 26, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 3 °C

    I decided to give my legs a day off after the long hike yesterday. I had a relaxing day in town, meeting someone from couchsurfing for breakfast. Later on I walked to the waterfall that is 3 km from town.

    In the evening I went with Loisa and Sylvain to this place called «burger and beer». The food was awesome! We ended the night in La Vineria, such a cozy place!
    Read more

  • Laguna de los tres

    February 25, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Because the weather was so amazing I decided to do some trekking, even though I could have needed some sleep after the overnight bus.

    I was planning on going to Laguna Torre, but in my zombie state I started walking another path. After 3 kilometres I realized the mistake, but decided to continue. My plan was to go to Laguna De Los Tres another day anyways. The trip is 10 km each way.

    I met a Brazilian girl, and we ended up doing the whole trail together. We also met two other Brazilian that we spend some time with. The view in the hike was amazing. 9 km was very easy and nice, and then you had 1 km of hell (meaning steep). The view on the top was breathtaking! We were so lucky with the weather and got a clear view of the mountain.

    The way down was not quite as fun. When it was 5 km left my legs got really tired, but there was nothing else to do than just keep walking. We were so happy when we reach the town.

    We went to «La Vineria» after a nice hot shower. Me, Louisa and Juan - both from the hiking today. I loved that place. They have a whole shelter of Argentinian wines and s lot of local brewed beer. The music and atmosphere was tranquiloooo!
    Read more

  • El Chaltén

    February 25, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Arriving at 07 in the morning after taking an overnight bus. The bus was not great, and I slept little.

    In the morning we could see a beautiful sunrise over My. Fitz roy, a great start to a new day.

  • Los Antiguos

    February 24, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Arrived here at 12, and the bus to El Chaltén was not before 19.30. Walked around a bit, meet up with a guy I met in the hostel in Villa Cerro Castillo. Had a great lunch, went to a cherry festival, and spent a lot of time in a beautiful garden restaurant. The weather was absolutely amazing!Read more