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Via Francigena - part 1
  • Carmel Carlsen
  • Carmel Carlsen

Via Francigena - part 1

I'll be walking the first part of the pilgrimage from Canterbury Cathedral to Grand Saint Bernard Pass. Läs mer
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  • Resans start
    18 april 2023
  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen

    At the airport!

    18 april 2023, Australien ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    I've just checked in. My backpack weighed just 6.2kg (by their scale). If I can, I'll weigh the bag I'm taking on the plane. All set to go. I'll be flying out at 9 pm. I can't get the smile off my face. I'm still not sure this is actually happening. Thank you, everyone, for your well wishes.Läs mer

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen

    Day -1 in London

    19 april 2023, England ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    The flight from Doha to London was good. For my first travellers tip: don't bother with lounge access if you have a short stop over. I only had 3 hours between planes and wasted my money. The weather in London is lovely, though I had to laugh when I walked out of the terminal and it was raining (very short and very gentle). Managed to navigate both ticket collection and the two trains I needed to catch to Victoria Station. Then I found my accommodation easily - thank you, Google maps. I'm about 15 minutes walk from Buckingham Palace, so I headed straight there after I dropped my bag off. Preparations are well underway for the London marathon.Läs mer

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen

    Day 0 - Canterbury

    20 april 2023, England ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    I arrived at Canterbury today and knew instantly that this is exactly where I am meant to be. This Cathedral is impressive. Quite more than I have ever encountered before. It was founded in 597 AD. Obviously, what I walked through today isn't exactly that building, but parts of it are. It is awe inspiring and the perfect place to start a pilgrimage. Mary-Lou is with me now and I am so looking forward to starting off together tomorrow. Note the pilgrim shell on the front gate.
    P.S. the second last photo is what is left of the town wall!    Läs mer

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen

    Day 1 - Canterbury to Shepherdswell

    21 april 2023, England ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    The Cathedral Dean, David, gave us our Pilgrim Blessing, and then we headed out in the rain. Today's walk was fantastic. The rain did not last too long. The countryside in Kent is green and gorgeous. The word "idyllic" does apply. We met pilgrims who were Danes, one Canadian, and a couple from Noosa. When we got to Shepherdswell, we hit the local, the Bell Inn, and, as with every other interaction so far in the UK, encountered lovely people who were happy to share their time with us and help us find our way to our accommodation for the night. I'm exhausted as I kept Mary-Lou up very late last night.Läs mer

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen
    2

    Day 2 - Shepherdswell to Calais

    22 april 2023, England ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Our nights stay with Stella and Mike Pascall in Shepherdswell could not have gone better. Stella gave us a terrific home cooked meal of Shepherds pie with home grown veggies from their allotment and we had rhubarb and apple crumble for dessert. We had separate rooms with lovely comfy beds and a bathroom to ourselves. It was heaven. Our hosts were wonderful company, they are very interesting, well traveled and very active. Unfortunately, we had a medical emergency in the morning and Stella needed to be taken to the hospital. Despite all that Mike made us a lovely breakfast and we set off. The walk to Dover was beautiful, but the highlight of my day was the incredible group of foot passengers on the ferry.Läs mer

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen

    Morning in Calais

    23 april 2023, Frankrike ⋅ 🌬 9 °C

    Our first hostel

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen
    2

    Day 3 - Calais to Wissant

    23 april 2023, Frankrike

    What started as a cold bright morning turned into a day of rain, and it remained cold all day - around 11 degrees. We stopped for coffee at a wonderful bar, run by Alexa and Frank. They were lovely friendly people, as was everyone else in the place and they were impressed that we were pilgrims. There was a lot of beach walking today, which would have been fantastic in better weather, and what I could see of the coast line was majestic. Mary-Lou and I separated just over halfway, which meant she was able to avoid the impassable creek just before Wissant. I, on the other hand, got my feet wet! We are both exhausted, and I expect we will sleep well tonight.Läs mer

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen
    2

    Day 4 - Wissant to Guines

    24 april 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Mary-Lou left for the Somme before 9 am this morning. I will miss her excellent company. I am now walking solo. I'm officially calling today 'Mud' day as most of my walking was on dirt roads or paths that were squelchy, squishy, and sometimes very slippery. My poles were a godsend. I walked 27 km today and am feeling pretty exhausted. I saw deer tracks today, but no actual deer. I got to walk through a forest today; that was special. Mostly, I walked through farmland, and it was lovely. I'm staying in a 'lodge', what I would call a cabin, tonight. Unbelievably, I've met up with the couple from Noosa and Eileen from Canada today. Oh, and believe me or not, but I saw the English coast this morning.Läs mer

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen
    611

    Day 5 - Guines to Licques

    25 april 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    I had dinner last night with the two Australians from Noosa (Helen and John), Eileen (the Canadian) and her partner; Pat (a Brit), and two Americans; Kim and Alison. They are all walking the Via Francigena. The only accommodation I could get last night was a cabin. It was great, so I'm doing the same tonight. As it had rained all night last night, and I was walking through the forest again today, I thought I was in for more mud. Luckily, I was mistaken! There was some, but none of it was a problem. I only encountered two other walkers today, going in the opposite direction. I saw the very fast train; close up, I was right next to the railway line. AND, I saw a deer. I'm pretty exhausted and am looking forward to my rest day tomorrow.Läs mer

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen
    2

    Day 6 - rest day (Licques)

    26 april 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    It's my first rest day, and I felt I deserved it, LOL. I walked around the town but took it very easy all day. I visited my first unlocked church and lit a candle. There were a number of religious icons around the town. The odd little wooden building is my cabin!Läs mer

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen
    11

    Day 7 - Licques to Tournenhem-sur-la-Hem

    27 april 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Where I am this evening is on the Hem River (hence the name). It was an easy 15 km walk today in good weather. The wind was strong and cold when I was high up; my hat came off twice! I met up with two Aussies from Tasmania this afternoon while waiting for the Hotel reception to open - not until 4 pm! I had 3 beers, which was a bit of a mistake! I also met and had dinner with Joan, from Scotland, and Andrew, from Victoria in the evening. I'm tired and will sleep well tonight. Note the image of the library and the old advertisement for Singer sewing machines. Did you catch the photo of the Dunny? It truly was one, I made use of it to avoid having to wee somewhere on the side of the road - public toilets are few and far between in France!Läs mer

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen
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    Day 8 - Tournehem-sur-la-Hem to Wisques

    28 april 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Today, I walked with the Tasmanians, Rebecca and Barclay, for part of the day and with Andrew, from Victoria, almost the entire day. It rained quite a bit, but it was light, and I didn't even bother with my rain gear. Tonight, I am staying in the Abbaye Notre Dame, run by the Nuns. Look it up, the place is amazing! Us pilgrims get the most gorgeous little house, an old hunting lodge, to ourselves and will be sharing dinner with the nuns at 7 pm. I felt strong and confident today, and my backpack didn't bother me at all. Either I am getting stronger or, I have to wonder, if the good company made all the difference. Oh, and I saw an image of Joan of Arc in a church today. One of the photos is of the Brothers leaving their Abbey, down the street. And, no, they weren't heading towards the Nun's Abbey.Läs mer

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen
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    Day 9 - Wisque to Therouanne

    29 april 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    It was good walking today. I walked solo and only saw one push bike on the Path. I saw a big group of walkers behind me, but they never caught up to me. I had one close contact with a tractor, of which I have never seen so many of my entire life - they are literally everywhere. And, just when you think you have seen everything that cultivated and grazing land has to offer, you will surprise a hare and they will run in front of you, or the sun will come out and warm you briefly, and make you smile, or you'll pass another field of yellow flowers, which I believe is Canola, and you will feel happy just to see their brilliance. But the joyful surprise today was walking on what was probably an old train line, with high earth shoulders on either side and a very stony bed. I really felt I was all alone on the planet in a secret, special place. There was a fair bit of mud to contend with today, and I did slip a few times, but it does not rate a 'Mud' day. Oh yes, I saw the largest snail I have ever seen in my life. Finally, the stained glass windows were in this weird creepy basement under the pilgrim accommodation at the Abbey in Wisque that was set up like a chapel.Läs mer

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen
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    Day 10 - Therouanne to Amettes

    30 april 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    I walked with Andrew from Victoria again today. We met up in our wonderful accommodation last night. It was a pleasant walk through beautiful cultivated countryside, and we did walk along an old train line, no tracks. It was magical. We seemed to encounter a lot of barking dogs today - luckily, they were all behind fences! One funny thing; we arrived at a church and Mass was in progress, and I went in - only to find we had gatecrashed a Baptism! Naturally, we left pretty quickly. Amettes is Saint Benoit Labre country. He is the Patron Saint of Pilgrims to Rome (and the homeless). In the Church, which is across the road from the most impressive Stations of the Cross I have ever seen, I was able to buy a Holy medal of him. I'll attach it to my backpack tonight.Läs mer

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen
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    Day 11 - Amettes to Bruay-la-Buissiere

    1 maj 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    I walked a good 26 km today through mining country. Some of it in the sun, which was lovely. You can't throw a stone where I am walking in France without coming across a church or a cemetery. I try to visit each church I walk past, but the majority are locked. Which is a real shame, as you can see that there is an awful lot of beautiful stained glass that I am missing 😢. I check out a cemetery, the French go all out for their dead - the graves are extremely flash - if there is a sign that indicates Commonwealth War graves. So far, they have all been air men, whom, I assume, either crashed or were shot down. Most of them are every young, in their early 20's - it's quite sobering. On a lighter note; the farmhouse I stayed in last night dates back to the 1400s! Check out the ceiling beams in the wonderful room where we had breakfast! Oh, and note the cockatoos decorating someone's front fence. One final thing, if anyone knows what those blue things are, they were everywhere in a lovely park I walked across today, I'd love to know.Läs mer

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen

    Day 12 - rest day (Bruay-le-Bussiere)

    2 maj 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    There is not much to report today. I had a genuine rest day after my Garmin watch told me I was "over reaching" yesterday! I'm calling France "the land of the cute little car"; they are everywhere! I went into a supermarket today, Cors, that was between a Woolworths and a Costo - it was huge and seemed to sell everything; just not a rubber stopper for my pole, which I discovered missing on day one! Note the turnstile being used to enter and leave the street, and those roll down shutters are actually made of wood.Läs mer

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen
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    Day 13 - Bruay-le-Bussiere to Souchez

    3 maj 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Some really good walking today and a lot of it! I walked over 32km and am feeling it. I walked through an adventure park, similar to Tree Tops, but with a lot more activities. There were kids everywhere! There was some forest walking and I saw another deer! I also visited the French National War cemetery for the Great War, where they have list of 294,000 names of all those who died in the area (both sides). My room tonight is very flash. It was the only place available.
    P.S. I should have mentioned, I met a pilgrim from Manchester who slept in a Church last night because she couldn't find accommodation!    Läs mer

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen
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    11121

    Day 14 - Souchez to Arras

    4 maj 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Another wonderful walk today, which means I'm exhausted! I know I took too many photos, but who cares? I am a little disturbed and confused by the disconnect between the VF app and the VF sign posts that appear on the roads! I have to follow the app, I'm too scared not too and today, the two (sign posts and app) did not coincide before the first 10 km and then lost each other again in the afternoon! It probably means I'm walking further, but I'll take it. I crossed the same rail line four times today (under, over and on, twice). The big risk I took today was taking off my knee brace! My knee has now decided it is strong and capable and can support me without help, and I'm giving it free rein. Sometimes, the path is a little overgrown- but it's always there. Arras is AMAZING! One last thing, the water here in France is sooooo clear!Läs mer

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen
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    Day 15 - Arras to Bapaume

    5 maj 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Today, there were periods of brilliant sunshine in what was mainly an overcast, windy, and rainy day! I even broke out the rain jacket. Arras is impressive, large, and very old - there is a lot to see (if you have the time). I came across a new Camino today in Arras: Saint-Jacques de Compostelle. I'll have to look it up. I followed the markers for a while, but as it was running in the opposite direction of the VF, I had to turn around. I dropped into the Commonwealth War Graves Commission on my way out of town and had a self-guided tour of the facilities. And, just after visiting one of the actual cemeteries, Sunken Road, a very nice man started to talk to me as we walked along. He knew a lot about Australian War Graves, so I assumed he worked for the Commission - no, he did not! His job is the check on the VF signs to make sure they are in place. I thanked him profusely. The final highlight of my day was seeing three pheasants, one very close up, and a lot of cotton tailed rabbits (not hares). The bush is some sort of nettle. Whenever my skin comes into contact with it, there is a mild sting, but the tingling sensation lasts for hours.Läs mer

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen

    Day 16 - Bapaume to Perrone

    6 maj 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    I'm walking through a very small section of what was known in WWI as the Western Front. Today, I saw my first actual poppy! Not a manufactured mass produced one or a beautifully hand crafted one, but the real thing. I walked down the Avenue des Australiens here in Perrone and visited an Australian War Memorial (on that same road). Call me corny, but I sang our National Anthem, out loud (and we all know how loud my voice is), not the second verse (we don't believe that, or offer it, anymore) in front of the statue. I felt it was the least I could do to recognise and acknowledge those young people who had no idea what they were getting themselves into and still did their absolute best. My Great Uncle being one of them. Also, I climbed that church tower, right up to the bells (should have taken off my backpack). When I got to the top, I was so scared that I had to close my eyes, and I forced myself to take a photo of one of the bells as I clutched the rail. Finally, I crossed the Canal du Nord and was lucky enough for two boats to be coming through.Läs mer

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen
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    442442

    Day 17 - Perrone to Trefcon

    7 maj 2023, Frankrike ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    It was a much shorter walk today. I'd finished about 2:30 and, as luck would have it, I can't get into my accommodation until 5 pm! So I'm sitting on the steps of the local church completely relaxing with two donkeys, a roaming chicken, and a horse to keep me company. My accommodation last night was very basic, donation style, in the grounds of the presbytery. I had to source my own breakfast, a first for me in France, and was delighted to find a bakery open (on a Sunday morning). I waited for the supermarket to open, grabbed some fruit, and set off in the rain. It was not another mud day, but I did have to traverse a quagmire (photo included for verification). I came across some church ruins and a grave, dated 1865, being overgrown by a tree!Läs mer

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen

    Day 18 - Trefcon to Saint Quentin

    8 maj 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    The forecast for today was fog, and it lasted my entire walk (I'm in a place where the sun doesn't burn off the fog!). This suited me perfectly as my mind was not in a place to appreciate the world around me. Today was a day of reflection and self-recrimination, which was a step up from the spiral of the previous night. The cause; a) I realised that the only meals I would be getting, if I stayed in Trefcon for the second night, for a rest day, would be breakfast - thus realising my fear of starving in France, b) the end points of my guide book and the VF app differed on 3 of the next 5 days, and, last, but not least, I'd run out of cigarettes! The outcome of the reflection: two core elements of myself; inherent laziness, bolstered by naive optimism (everything will work out), may prevent me from completing this adventure. I realise now that I must be better organised and informed of what is coming up for me and plan for it. I can do the walking itself; not counting my walk today, and according to my garmin, I have walked 163.1 km since my last rest day. What I can't do without is food and a place to stay every night that provides adequate support services. So I've checked out each of the places I am staying over the next week to ensure that I get those things - apparently, that is possible (at this stage).Läs mer

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen
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    Day 19 - Saint Quentin to Seraucourt le

    8 maj 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    A walk in the rain today with the Saint Quentin Canal on my right and glimpses of La Somme River on my left. I saw my very first canal lock, and I encountered my very first pilgrim on the actual path: a Dutch cyclist. He had the best gear, bike included - he didn't even look wet. I, on the other hand, looked like a drowned rat, LOL. I dropped my pole inside that water pump thing (bad photos I know, but the rain did not stop for a second). Thank God it floated and did not get sucked down as I was able to climb over the fence and retrieve it. I would be severely hampered with only one pole. That helped me to think about all the things I can be grateful for and all the fabulous wisdom people have shared with me, and I am benefitting from. Thank you all. 😊. P.S. the Cathedral at Saint Quentin was amazing - not much to look at from the outside, but seriously impressive once you got in the door.Läs mer

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