traveled in 14 countries Read more Lerwick, United Kingdom
  • Day 15

    lehmkuhl leaves, reflections on the trip

    July 30, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    It's emotional to see statsraad preparing to set sail. A few other ships were still in the harbour last night after mist caused the parade of sail to be cancelled.
    I woke to the sound of a horn blowing. It wasn't lehmkuhl. But only an hour later I watched her leave, passing Sørlandet as she went out by Bressay lighthouse onwards to Arendal. Part of me wishes I was still on board. I definitely want to sail with her in the future.

    Looking back, I am very happy with how much I've achieved on this adventure!
    I was so anxious about the whole idea of living and working on a ship let alone cope with a such an unusual routine while living with Narcolepsy.
    Once I got on board and settled into the routine, to my own surprise I thrived and managed better than I ever expected. The shift pattern really worked for me and the adrenaline kept me going. I didn’t need as many daily naps as I usually would.
    I'm so glad I did this. Thanks also to sail training Shetland, your organising and to Lucy Morris my chaperone for being so well organised and encouraging.

    I've loved every second of it and met so many great people! I'll forever remember my time on board. Nothing is impossible!

    Fair winds Statsraad lehmkuhl!
    Go win the race to Arendal!
    Read more

  • Day 13

    Tall ships day 3

    July 28, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Today was the last time I was on board the Statsraad Lehmkuhl. It was really quite sad to leave. I would have loved to continue on to Arendal and do more sailing. But the boat is fully booked.

    I packed my sleeping bag and put away my hammock. The Sail train Shetland trainees had to gather at Fort Charlotte for a group photo and an audience with HRH Princess Anne. We were able to stow our luggage in the classroom off the sail locker below the fore banjer.
    The Statsraad gang was the last ones to arrive. But we had plenty of time for group photos as well as in our ship groups. A couple of trainees were chosen from each ship to come forward to meet the princess. Jonathan was given this opportunity on behalf of the Shetlanders on board Eendracht.
    The rest of the group waited in the background.

    When the princess arrived we all clapped and watched on as she spoke to the trainees.

    I gave Jonathan a tour of statraad before finally leaving her for the last time. I'm going to miss her and the people I met. The whole experience still hasn't fully sunk in yet.
    Read more

  • Day 12

    Tide Lines

    July 27, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    This evening I went along to the main stage at Holmsgarth to see Tide Lines! It was super weather and the support act, The Chair was amazing, just as good as tide Lines themselves. I had a great night dancing and singing with my pals.

    I returned to the ship for one final night aboard.
    Read more

  • Day 12

    Tall ships festival day 2

    July 27, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    The weather today was amazing! Just like the night before. It was a miracle that we got some good weather for the tall ships!

    I woke up and had a nice morning walk along deck just after breakfast. There was a cruise ship at anchor off the starboard side.

    I met Rachel and Dad this morning. Dad's a liason officer and was allocated a dutch naval yacht the Urania. We were given a tour and it's amazing how many people are accommodated in such a peerie boat, in comparison to the Lehmkuhl.
    We also had some lovely ice cream before I gave them a tour of my ship.
    Read more

  • Day 11

    Crew parade & party

    July 26, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    At 4pm we gathered as a ship together for the crew parade! It was amazing to see so many people watching! The streets were packed!

    The parade went from the esplanade to the main stage at holmsgarth. And here we had the opening of the Lerwick Tall Ships festival.
    A prize giving ceremony then took place. Winners included Bima Suci, with the tallest mast and having travelled the furthest to take part. The Swan won the prize for outstanding contribution to the Cruise-in-Company.

    After the ceremony we attended the crew party where lots of Shetland trainees helped guide in Shetland dances. There was a DJ as well as Alan Nicholson's dance band.
    Read more

  • Day 11

    Tall ships festival day 1

    July 26, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    There are so many tall ships here. I visited Jonathan's ship, Eendracht from the Netherlands. He gave me a guided tour. It's a very neat boat, but the layout is completely different to what I'd experienced. The crew sleep in cabins unlike hammocks on the Lehmkuhl. The Dutch crew are great. They were so welcoming. I love camaraderie displayed among different ships and their crews.

    The sunset that night was just stunning!
    Read more

  • Day 11

    Last watch & arriving in Lerwick

    July 26, 2023, North Sea ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    This watch started like every other but today's is the last watch as we will arrive in Lerwick by mid morning. I had my last physical watch, at the helm with John. We could see Sumburgh head lighthouse and the red lights from the radar domes.

    Earlier we took down the staysails. It was difficult to haul in the mizzen fall. We were all really tired. But eventually got it done. We did the same again for the main Staysail. And I worked with some norwegians to pack & fold the mizzen Staysails.
    You could tell everyone was ready for shore, we were all in high spirits as the last 20 minutes counted down. And we had some great laughs below deck discussing plans for what we'll do first when we moor. I've had an absolute ball. I wish it could have been longer! I've met so many great people. It's sad to leave them soon.

    We were awoken by funny norwegian music at 7:50 this morning. After a quick breakfast we started to give our Banjer a good spring clean. We finally arrived alongside Victoria pier at 9:30 am. We couldn't get off yet. At 10:30 a full muster was held on deck, where the captain gave a short speech thanking and congratulating us trainees on our trip. We all descended into the forward banjer where we each received a diploma and a statsraad lehmkuhl badge from the Sergeant, Mons. It was an amazing feeling to step up in front of all your peers clapping and encouraging you.

    I got selfies with Alan from Newcastle and Hans from Bergen before they left.
    Read more

  • Day 10

    Engine room, sailor training & les Mis!

    July 25, 2023, North Sea ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    Tonight's watch was not as dark because we are continuing to move North.

    One of the Ordinary seamen Christian told us how to become a sailor in Norway.
    It generally consists of electrical/mechanical studies in 1st year and
    studying deck and engine for half a year before then having to choose one.
    This is equal to becoming an ordinary seafarer.
    To become an able bodied seafarer, 2 years must be spent on a school ship.

    Next you can do vocational higher education or university.

    Christian sang master of the house from Les Mis. He'd previously been on stage performing in front of thousands.

    I was on lookout with felix from Bergen. His parents are sailing across to Lerwick in their yacht. He has visited Lerwick once before and thinks it is very nice.

    The dawn was lovely. Especially the daylight this far north.

    2nd watch.
    Sustainability talk, engine room tour, taking in sails and wearing.

    We were given a short introductory talk about Sustainability by Sunniva an officer on board. Her knowledge is in navigation but she also has the role of sustainability officer.
    We were told the definition of sustainable development mentioned in the Brundtland report and discussed ways to help protect the environment. We also looked at the 3 pillars of sustainability: governance, environment and Social.
    Sustainability is an important part of Statsraad's current and future plans. Sailing ships like Statsraad are very green at a time when the International maritime organisation is clamping down on the biggest polluters.
    It was all very familiar to me, from my Sustainable development lectures at uni.

    Next we took down the main course, or the mainsail on the main mast. I was on fire watch, so didn't have to do too much of the sail work.

    11 of us visited the engine room this afternoon. Statsraad was one of the first school ships to have an engine. There is one engine and 2 diesel generators. These provide electricity when the engine isn't running. The engine also heats the hot water.

    I resurfaced in time for 3pm coffee break where we ate the best banana bread I've ever had. It's so much more moist. Not dry in the slightest.
    Finally we had to wear the ship. This involves hauling the braces to change the angle of the sails. This is different from a tack because we do it with the wind and have a wider turn.
    I was on the main brann brace or the topgallant in English. It was hard work, but worth it.

    Before tea one of the members of white watch gave a talk about his experience as a young guy on the school ship in the 1970s. He joined statsraad lehmkuhl in Bergen on a voyage organised by his school Oceanic in New York. They sailed from November 1972 for 7 months visiting france, the Gambia, Brazil and the Caribbean before returning to Bergen via the Azores. It was notable for being the first voyage to include women and also a newly installed hydraulic steering system.
    Read more

  • Day 9

    Sailing, history and a cold wind

    July 24, 2023, North Sea ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    Leaving the Scottish coast behind. It's a horribly cold and windy evening. We've got the lights of Peterhead as company.

    Tonight we were told the history and exciting future of Statsraad lehmkuhl.
    First of all some background into the type of ship Statsraad eventually became.

    In the late 1800s Norwegian school ships started to be set up. This didn't begin in Bergen. The aim of teaching people on these ships was primarily to improve the lives of young men.

    Built in Bremmerhavn by an archduke who named it after himself.
    She trained merchant seamen during first world war and was taken by Britain as a victory prize in 1920.
    The following year Kristofer Lehmkuhl who was a cabinet minister (statsraad) bought her for a vey large sum of money. When bought, the ship was state of the art with a diesel engine. 90% of her steel is original.
    School ship.
    Renamed Westwarts & painted black in WW2.
    Supported by another business man.
    Did training in 1960s-70s. There is one guy on board with us who was one of the last boys on ship.
    Late 1970, businessman went bankrupt but did not want the ship to be taken. So it was sold into the Statsraad Lehmkuhl foundation for 1 NOK.

    She only sailed in the summer season. There was no fully employed crew until 2000s. When the Norwegian naval academy signed a contract for use of the ship 3 months every year. Recently Dutch Navy has signed a contract with statsraad foundation too.

    Future is as important as the past.
    One ocean expedition, was a vision from the director of the lehmkuhl foundation.
    The scientific paper from the expedition will be published in the Autumn.

    Future plan for expedition to Northwest passage in 2025.
    After the talk, I asked Kristian if there was any more information about the next expedition and he explained the current plan which will be confirmed soon.
    The ship will leave Bergen in April after the one ocean week, Travel to tromso, Svalbard then Nice for the one ocean conference. After that she will head North to Nuuk in Greenland, followed by Halifax in Canada. And then she will enter the Northwest Passage.

    I was on buoy watch for the last hour of our watch period. It was really cold, but I'm glad I was at the most sheltered part of the ship.

    The 2nd watch was still windy but bright. Although we did have rain in the first hour.

    We are setting sails today. We have set the lower and upper topsails. Stump & most in Norsk. This involved work on the yards. So a number of trainees have been aloft in the rigging.
    My job has involved the ropes on deck, releasing buntlines and hauling sheets.

    In the last hour I was at the helm with Eirin from Norway. We chatted about school, sustainability, learning English and learning Norwegian. Her friend spoke better English but had learned it from watching the Kardashians.
    We started with the course 035° and then the captain told us to adjust to 020° and finally to 025°.

    P. S. I just ate the best cooked salmon ever, for tea tonight.
    Read more

  • Day 8

    Bye bye Aberdeen, Next stop Lerwick

    July 23, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    Leaving Aberdeen after a short stay. I am disappointed that we couldn't visit any Norwegian ports but I'm looking forward to the voyage to Lerwick.

    Just after 3pm all hands were called to muster on deck. We had a roll call and then were tasked with bracing the sails. Bracing involves changing the angle of the horizontal yards that sails hang from.

    We were meant to leave at 4pm but waited while the Northlink ferry, and a cruise ship had departed. The hours went by but we still couldn't leave. As the pilot was unhappy with the access arrangements on Lehmkuhl. So we had more down time in the banjer. After tea I saw that the carpenter had crafted a new suitable rope ladder, it was eventually put to use when we left after 8pm. The ladder was actually gifted to the pilot after he rejoined the pilot boat.
    Read more

Join us:

FindPenguins for iOSFindPenguins for Android