FoodMad NoMad

February 2020 - May 2024
Finishing our planned 18 months in the Americas, we cancelled our flight home to Scotland, instead buying a camper in the US to drive to Chile. It seems about time to start writing about what really matters to me: food and its connection to people. Read more
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  • Day 17

    Getting Curious

    February 22, 2020 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    22nd February. Dirty pizza; the birthday(s) ends.

    After so many days of indulgence, it all had to end some point. Today was a sluggish one, accumulated hangovers finally grinding us to a hault with all the associated guilt of calories consumed and pounds gained. The only question that really matters is was it worth it? And yes, it was. That's the best birthday celebration I think I've ever been a part of. 4 days of brilliant people with food playing the wonderful role it does in bringing people from all over the world together with a common language of deliciousness. I am delighted that I had the opportunity to contribute, and humbled by how well it all landed.

    Today's helping of dirty pizza from Little Caesar's was the only thing any of us wanted. Satisfying and depressing at the same time. Exactly as required for a hangover. Healthy eating starts tomorrow.

    So that's me sat and plugged in all my historic notes into this app so I'm now up to speed. Through the process of making the updates, I started to notice a specific gap in how I'm approaching the topic. I said I would talk more to people about all things food, and I also referenced that's hard for me in some situations. But what I hadn't realised is that I'm missing quite an easy opportunity to talk to the other travellers I meet. It got me to thinking about how I can start better conversations, likely with quite an explicit interview style, so I spent a little time writing down the kind of questions I think I can start asking to get people to open up and, hopefully, I'll learn lots of information and make stronger connections as a result.

    Here's the kind of stuff I'm thinking about. Learning some of them in Spanish will be interesting; not as hard as trying to decipher the answers I get, mind you.

    What are your fondest memories of eating?

    What was the one dish everyone in your family loved?

    Describe your relationship with food

    Describe mealtimes with your family. How has that changed through your life?

    What matters to you when it comes to eating?

    Describe a particular meal/occasion that stands out in your memory

    Desert Island scenario. What's that meal or set of ingredients you'd take? 

    Who would you most like to dine with? What would the over-the-table conversation be about?

    Describe the role that food plays in your family home, with your friends, in your country and culture. What value does that relationship carry?

    What's your attitude towards current hot topics, such as sustainability, environmental impact and animal welfare?

    How would you rate your cooking skills? Would you like that to be different/what stands in the way?

    What is your favourite dish to cook or have cooked for you?

    What's your earliest memories of being in the kitchen?

    What does the future of food look like for you?

    So I suppose I should try answer them for myself to see how well they work. Not bad, I think is my conclusion. We'll see what actually happens when I start asking people such things out of the blue.

    What are your fondest memories of eating?

    Any time with friends and good times. Particularly ones where I've managed to really deliver some food that blew someone away. Definitely the annual event my parents held to celebrate a poet. It was my opportunity to push myself to please a wider audience with large numbers. It was always stressful, and it would end up with my mum having to do so much help to keep things clean and moving, but the only bit that sticks is how people responded, and those clean plates.

    What was the one dish everyone in your family loved?

    Sausage pie. My mum's way of getting onions into me- I was a fussy wee bugger. Richmond recipe Irish sausages, chopped into chunks and fried with onions, tomato puree, and a tin of Heinz baked beans. Fired into an oven dish and topped with fluffy mash, maybe cheese as a treat on top, then into the oven to crisp the top. It remains a favourite, and it's an example of how, despite being able to knock out some pretty high end food these days, trying to replicate my mother's dish, no matter how elementary it may seem, is a task beyond me. I'm less able to perfectly burn onions for a start.

    Describe your relationship with food

    I'm fairly obsessed. It can be unhealthy for me, psychologically at times. If planning a big meal, I'll often start work on the menu design months in advance, and even in those early stages, be waking up with ideas in the middle of the night. My mind is at its worst when it's at its best, creatively. My desire to do everything from scratch means I get good results, but I spend more time than most would going to lengths that aren't always necessary. But I love it. Food and cooking is capable of making me cry with pleasure, so I know that it is truly my 'thing'. I'm a bit more balanced with things right now, because I can't have it dominating a trip that is as much about all the other thrills of travel as it is about being a food nut.

    I love to challenge myself with cookery, and the buzz of pushing to execute something exceptional. I put myself through torture sometimes by doing things like cooking in restaurant kitchens- it makes me seriously anxious- but the feeling I get when I finish a shift, working with people I look yo as heroes, is worth all the nerves. I've made friends for life through food. It has changed my life.

    Describe mealtimes with your family. How has that changed through your life?

    In earlier years we always ate together. That started to change as I got older and, maybe, as society changes in that regard. I always wanted to be with my friends. Sunday dinner was still generally done. It's one thing I miss from being at home. If and when we return, I'll make mote of an effort to be around for that.

    What matters to you when it comes to eating?

    That whoever made the food cared about what they did. It's everything. Sometimes people close to me don't want to cook for me because they see how critical I am of my own food, but they miss an important point- I just love someone taking their time and being kind enough to serve me a plate of food, because they'll have done it with the care it deserves. I'm happy with scrambled eggs and toast. It's just so nice to sit down and be served something. It's relaxing.

    Describe a particular meal/occasion that stands out in your memory

    The first time we walked into The Gannet in Glasgow. We were only in for drinks- it had not long opened to the public, and we had other plans for dinner. I saw a plate going past and knew immediately that it was high quality- the colour preserved in the cooking of the spinach, the translucence of the sauce, and how everything sat up on the plate. That moment changed everything, possibly my life, forever. We went in a few days later and it blew my mind. We were in all the time and got super friendly with the staff, particularly Rory, the guy running bar. It turned out he was the brother of the owner, Peter. Eventually I plucked up the balls to ask him if he would ask his brother if I could come into the kitchen to learn.

    My first shift, I thought I'd just be picking lettuce and watching, but it was very much hands in and I was given plenty of tasks. My second shift, I expected similar, but I was put on my own station on their second busiest night ever. I didn't have a single dish sent back from being sent to the 'pass'. Since then, I've become extremely close with Peter, and his friends and family; I've stood side by side with him as my food hero, cooking in front of the public at food festivals. I've cooked with him for local charitable causes. He values my opinion on his dishes, perhaps the greatest honour. My food has improved exponentially, and I now dream of a future that involves food in some way.

    I've had a several profound meals in my life, not least at Central, in Lima, Peru, which is one of the leading restaurants in the world with particularly inspirational work on sustainability of culture, environment and indigenous people and practice. That made me cry. I couldn't even talk when I got introduced to the kitchen team.

    Desert Island scenario. What's that meal or set of ingredients you'd take? 

    I can't answer it. My mind changes every day. If I had to take ingredients, likely a handful of core veggies that I can use to make a variety of Mediterranean dishes. I love Italian food.

    Who would you most like to dine with? What would the over-the-table conversation be about?

    Tough one. Maybe Anthony Bourdain. I'd like to talk to him about some of the crazy stories, but mainly about how to be a great travel and food writer like he was.

    Describe the role that food plays in your family home, with your friends, in your country and culture. What value does that relationship carry?

    It's still very important in my family home. Everything is home cooked. My mum is a great cook and she's trying many new things all the time, whilst keeping a sense of routine with old favourites which keeps my dad happy. My close friends are pretty much all into food and cooking, so it's integral to our social scene. I love it. As for the country, we've lost connection in many ways to our history with food. That's not all a bad thing as we've a fantastic, vibrant food scene, but there's also a lot of crap, like anywhere, and it was be nice to keep connected. I'm not sure how much families are together around food, these days, so it would be good not to drift any further, but I suspect that's just the way things are going. People are busy and have different priorities.

    What's your attitude towards current hot topics, such as sustainability, environmental impact and animal welfare?

    It would be tempting, given that I believe it's too late for humans to save themselves, to be apathetic, but these are extremely important topics. I'd love to have a restaurant that had a net positive impact on the world and it's animals. I struggle greatly with the fact I'm eating meat. It used to be that so long as it was reared well l, then I'd be cool with it, but the death of a creature is a serious thing and I don't believe it's my decision to make, yet I am, at the moment, eating meat. I'm not sure what my future will be with it, especially if I ever open a restaurant.

    How would you rate your cooking skills? Would you like that to be different/what stands in the way?

    I'm good at what I do, sometimes exceptional, given I've no formal training. But I need a much broader knowledge of more of the structural stuff that would give me way more flexibility to produce more varied and interesting food.

    What is your favourite dish to cook or have cooked for you?

    I love to cook a full tasting menu, and the highlight for me is always trying to nail the meat dish which would ideally be home-based, with a refined sauce and some smartly though-out garnishes. But I'm also just as happy making an epic lasagne.

    What's your earliest memories of being in the kitchen?

    Licking sponge mix off the mixer blade when my mum was baking, then gradually getting into helping.

    What does the future of food look like for you?

    Fuck knows. I'd be surprised if I don't do something career-wise with it, but I'm open to whatever at the moment. I know I need to cook for people more often than I do, and that I need to learn more food from more places to make people happy.
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  • Day 18

    Last day in La Paz

    February 23, 2020 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Susie's meatballs and leftover chilli quesadillas.

    After too many days of partying and the resultant hangover yesterday, today's food needed to be practical to allow us time to catch our tails on a bunch of tasks so that we can leave town tomorrow.

    We had a smidge of bean chilli and trimmings left over from our Balandra beach gatherings, so Susie put on some quesadillas for lunch with some pointers from Jen, who has mastered them over the last year or so. The tortillas we are using are a little higher in fat content than most which makes for quite a nice result regards how crispy they get, even if they're a little less healthy. The asadero cheese - think mozzarella but slightly drier- worked a treat, and the trimmings of creme fraiche and leftover beef Adobada, and red sauce topped it off nicely- we do love a free lunch.

    Susie offered to cook dinner. Given her results with the chicken avocado sandwich, which suggests she's got a great palate, I was looking forward to whatever she made. Meatballs with a tomato sauce, spaghetti and parmesan were knocked out in quick order. Really decent, too. I've always had problems getting meatballs to be quite as soft as when you order them (polpette) in Italy. These were much better than my previous attempts.

    Susie told me that she doesn't normally do meatballs, it's more common for her to make a pasta sauce with fresher tomatoes, spicy Italian sausage and seasoning. They've eaten that as a family since way back, so it's one of those staple dishes for them by the sounds of it. The same kind of thing was a firm favourite with me for years at home, less so Jen as she's not a huge fan of the fennel flavour in Italian sausage.

    Tomorrow we head for Todo Santos. I've not checked out what the food possibilities are down there yet, but Jen said we can buy fish from the fisherman on the beach, and that someone mentioned having red snapper, so that's got me in the mood for a BBQ on the beach if we can make it come together.

    The area we're heading to is much more expensive, so I doubt we'll be hitting any nice restaurants- taco stands, family run joints, and plenty of cooking in the van all be in order.
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  • Day 24

    Ideas for the pot

    February 29, 2020 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Teaching Patrick how to make my veggie Chilli

    We decided another veggie chilli was in order, primarily as it's so versatile, but also because Patrick wanted to learn how to make it. He doesn't cook a whole lot, and especially not veggie food, but he loved the chilli so much before that he was keen to learn something without meat.

    I've also decided that I'm going to make my own version of Tostielotes- it's going to have the veggie Chilli, as well as cucumber and jicama (per the tostilocos at Balandra), corn, sour cream, a variety of hot sauces, a squeeze of lime, and some queso fresco. I imagine feeding this to friends at home, using Doritos, I guess. I think it would go down a real treat. I can't wait to cook all this stuff for friends along the road and at home.

    On the hot sauce front, I'm needing to ask what they add to tostielotes. I'm sure it's just bottles of stuff off a shelf, which is fine- no need to mess with it- I just need to know what ones. The tostilocos had three sauces in there, our tostielotes only had one. I think maybe there's a bit sauce, a chipotle one, and a tamarind one, just judging by the colours. It's impossible to tell when it's all just thrown in there.

    I see tamarind pods in the supermarkets, so I need to explore how they process it and use it. I'm used to using it in Asian cookery, but in the paste form which will avoid what I'm sure will be a fairly footery process.

    As well as the Tostito dish- which I think I may badge Tostidavitos or Locodavitos or something suitable, we've some poblano peppers to be stuffed, too.

    Yesterday, we also made some more pickled Jalapeños, Green Tomato Sauce and Pico de Gallo. All decent. We have stuff left to make some Red Sauce, Guac, and a few other bits n bobs. I think the goal here is to likely always have a bunch of these items as store cupboard/fridge stocked items as it's all so interchangeable, and it's so easy and cheap to find the ingredients. I imagine I'll be able to cook almost all Mexican dishes. I like this idea of having a base set of easily sourced things which I can pivot to do anything- the opportunity here is that shopping will be less dependent on pte-meditating what we're going to eat, and more a case of just stocking up on the same set of ingredients, and then deciding as we go. What a great way to live, and I'm sure once I get in the swing of other dishes, we'll be eating close to as good as restaurant food for even cheaper.

    We found lemons yesterday in Cabo- you never see yellow lemons here. That means we can use the Asadero cheese to try to make a take on a lemon/oregano halloumi dish we used to make at home- marinated then grilled. Looking forward to that, maybe in a Vanini (a name we gave to a tortilla stuffed with whatever and cooked in the van)- think wrapped quesadilla.

    I'm also wanting to explore doing a veggie Pastor, using the marinade I have on the same Asadero cheese.

    So lots of ideas in the pot...

    Oh, and we christened the HP sauce we bought in California yesterday, thanks to Jen making some scrambled eggs and toast. Perfection.
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  • Day 26

    Burger Beach Bonanza

    March 2, 2020 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Quesadillas; Poblanos; Veggie Burgers!

    Susie and Jen both made quesadillas the last couple of days, with various fillings- chicken, beans, salsa. All very tasty. With Jen's, we tried the cheap hot sauces we bought from the supermarket in preparation for my tostielote spin. One chipotle, one 'red'. They were pretty decent, and I think defo the right types I've guessed for what needs to go on this super-snack. Although, I think maybe I need to find out what's going on with tamarind here, as I wouldn't be surprised if that's what the 3rd sauce on the Balandra tostilocos was. I see tamarind pods in all the supermarkets here, so it's time to find out how it's used in Mexican cooking, so that'll be a task for today.

    With much help from Susie, Patrick and Jen, we made a bumper batch of my standard veggie burger mix. It is a mammoth effort. The recipe is below, until such time as I've decided upon my solution for storing them. The effort really is in all the grating of the veg and then squeezing the water out. At home, I'm sure a food processor and some other bits n bobs would help. I am going to try another base for the recipe which isn't so labour intensive, but whilst I'm out here, I don't really mind spending the time as the results are pretty epic.

    As mentioned before, the idea with this patty- which I generally coat in panko before frying, but can be done without- is that it's versatile. The spicing (cumin, ground coriander, paprika) is designed to be generic enough that we can mix up what we serve it with. I'm planning on making it with some BBQ sauce today, with choose, pickled carrots (courtesy of Susie), and maybe some slaw of some kind, depending on ehat we find on our way South to our next camp spot. It'll be interesting to see how all it gets used in the coming days. It freezes very well, too. This batch looks fantastic. It's all about getting the water out, and a bit of luck with how wet the chickpeas are- sometimes they're too mushy, like beans.

    Dinner had to be thrown together sharp after all that veggie burger prep. With the veggie bean chilli from the other day, so stuffed poblano chillies and threw some asadero cheese in there- this is becoming a favourite of mine. Damn tasty, quite light, and uses only about 4 teaspoons of the Chilli so it makes it stretch well which is important in our case. I served it with guacamole, as per the recipe which our Mexican buddy gave me a 10/10 for (with tomato, no cilantro, and some pre-soaked white onion), and some 'red' sauce- slightly grilled tomatoes, dried ancho chilli, lime, cilantro, water.

    That all went down a treat. So, even though there's repetition in what we're eating- that will always be the case whilst I'm working on Mexican food and my little variants, plus my old van-food favourites- I can't recall the last meal we had that wasn't delicious. It lets me start to really get a handle on some of the recipes, too, so that I can start to write them up and publish on here.

    We heard recently of a couple of other travellers selling vegan meals for 450 pesos from their van- that's nearly $25 USD. I could smash put epic food for half that and make a decent profit. The thought is crossing my mind more often these days. What's to lose?

    Anyway, veggie burger patty mix recipe below. This is vegan, depending on your garnish, and gluten free if you choose to use chickpea flour.

    Dodgy Dave's Veggie Burger Mix: MkII

    Burger mix- makes 8 (I think), maybe more

    Chickpeas- 2 tins, drained, crushed and dried as much as possible
    Garlic- 2 medium cloves grated
    Peppers- 2 grated coarse (red and green ideally)
    Courgette/zucchini- 1 large fine grated
    Yellow Onion- 2 medium, coarse grated
    Small aubergine/eggplant- skinned and coarse grated
    Fresh Coriander5Cilantro- 1/2 bunch, finely chopped
    Carrot - 2 medium, fine grated
    Mushrooms- 200g very finely chopped
    Fresh chili- to taste, finely chopped
    Fresh lime juice- about 1/2 to a full, to taste, so maybe even more
    4 TBSP chickpea flour, +/- to texture and stiffen. Wheat flour can be used, and actually works pretty well.

    Spice mix;
    2 tsp ground cilantro
    2 tsp ground cumin
    1 tsp chilli flakes (or adjust to taste)
    2 tsp paprika
    1/2 tsp cayenne

    Serving suggestions;

    Classic:  on a bun with:
    Mayo
    Lettuce
    Tomato
    Red onion slices

    BBQ: on a bun with
    Mayo
    Dodgy Dave's BBQ Sauce
    Red onion, or onion rings

    Kinda Med/Persian style;
    On a flatbread/wrap with squeeze of lime, pickles, tomato, pepper, yoghurt with lime and cilantro)

    Alt option for all variants: dip patties in flour then egg then panko to fry up to a crispy version.

    Prep:

    Grate all the veg (except mushrooms) and place in a sieve over a bowl. Then, take handfuls and squeeze the water out of it thoroughly, and set it aside. Take a 2nd pass at it if needed. Mix it all together.

    Add a little vegetable oil to a non stick frying pan and put on a medium heat.

    Fry the veg mix (except the mushrooms and fresh chillies) in batches and set aside- idea is to cook off the water, get rid of the raw flavours and sweeten it, and get a little colour and savoury flavour in there. Get a little colour on each batch, then set aside in a pot. Use a little oil for each batch as needed, but only as much as is necessary, you don't want a greasy burger, hence why non stick pan is ideal.

    Fry the mushrooms on a high heat with no oil- they should shrink right down and get colour. Don't be tempted to move them around too much. Depending on the size of the pan, two batches may be required- just make sure and don't have them layered thickly.

    Add the cooked mushrooms to the veggie mix in the pan.

    Put the pan on a medium heat and add in the spice mix. Stir, and allow the aromas to start coming out of the spices for a few minutes.

    Add in the chickpeas and mix well and let it all sweat together for a few more minutes then allow to cool.

    Once cooled, add the cilantro and fresh chilli and season with the lime juice and salt to taste- the idea here is to introduce fresh, zingy flavours at the end so that their flavour remains as vibrant as possible in the end result, providing contrast for the deep and warm flavours and textures that's been created in the base patty. You can adjust the level of chilli, cilantro etc as you see fit, but keep it versatile as a patty is my advice.

    Make into patties, and put in fridge or freezer as desired.

    For final cooking, either coat the patties in flour then beaten egg then panko and deep fry (or shallow fry and turn- make sure oil is deep enough to cover half way up), or just fry gently with no breadcrumb in a non stick with a little oil.

    Serve up as you prefer.
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  • Day 27

    Burger King

    March 3, 2020 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Veggie Burgers and BBQ sauce up in the sierras

    We did a U-turn yesterday and headed inland due to some shitty weather that's due to hit the coast.

    We arrived at our camp kinda late on, but it didn't stop me setting to work on making a BBQ sauce to go with the planned dinner of veggie burgers. I haven't made this sauce for ages- since our last van, back down in Chile.

    The principles are fairly simple, and so the ingredients are easy to swap out if you don't have the right stuff to hand, e.g. we didn't have Apple juice yesterday, so I blitzed some fresh pineapple instead;

    1) Onion, garlic and (optional) ginger base
    2) Add spices and sweat
    3) Add acids (vinegar, then reduce, then fruit juice, then reduce)
    4) Add body- e.g. tomato passata- not an essential stage
    5) Adjust flavour profile and seasoning- e.g. with soy sauce, mustard, honey/treacle/molasses
    6) Cook out to desired texture

    The burgers were done in panko, and in a toasted burger bap, served up with mayo, BBQ sauce, mustard, Susie's pickled carrots, shredded lettuce, super thin sliced tomatoes, and a full round slice of red onion on the base to give it some punch. They went down well. Patrick and Susie seem truly blown away with this veggie food- they are big meat-eaters- and Patrick is saying he's looking forward to serving up these recipes to his family as their minds will be blown by the dishes, and the fact he's cooking them. That's some big compliments there's which sent me to bed very happy.

    As much as I've enjoyed eating all this stuff we've made, I'm looking forward to wrapping up the batches we have as it's been too long since we've been eating in places at the side of the road- it's killing me driving past such awesome ramshackle little places, packed out with locals and smoke bellowing out from the grill. We've still not had a single pollo asado (BBQ chicken), so that needs sorted out, pronto. And we need some more Baja fish tacos before we leave here for the mainland, soon.

    Onwards we go. Today we should find some good bread at a bakery that's run by an old-skool biker guy, seemingly.

    BBQ sauce recipe.

    1 onion finely chopped
    4 garlic cloves grated
    Thumb of ginger grated
    80ml red wine vinegar
    80ml balsamic vinegar
    2 teaspoons ground coriander
    3 teaspoons smoked paprika
    2 teaspoons sweet paprika
    2 tsp cumin
    2 tsp gr ginger
    1 teaspoon mustard powder
    2 teaspoons chile flakes
    4 chipotle chilies
    2 teaspoons chipotle sauce
    1 handful chopped cilantro stalks
    8 desert spoons mustard (yellow or any type)
    500mls apple juice (or other fruit juice)
    50ml soy sauce
    100mls honey
    200 grams tomato passata
    1.5 tablespoons sugar (estimate- see below)
    Salt to taste

    Note: the amount of sugar required may differ depending on how sweet the Apple juice is, so taste before adding and add gradually tasting as you go.

    1. Gently cook the onion in a pot until softened, add the garlic and ginger and cook for another 3 minutes, taking care not to burn or apply too much colour

    2. Add the spice mix and cook for a minute or so, until the flavours start to release. Add a little more oil if you have to.

    3. Add the Chipotle chillies and sauce and cook for another minute

    4. Add the vinegars, raise the heat and reduce by around 3/4- until the harshness has gone from the smell

    5. Add the fruit juice, reduce by half or more- consistency should be just starting to thicken a little

    6. Add the mustard, soy, honey, cilantro and tomato passata. Cook for around 20 minutes, or until it becomes sufficiently thickened. Check flavour throughout, adding salt, sugar and additional spices to taste. If it needs a little more acidity, a drop or two of vinegar to taste, also.
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  • Day 28

    Decent Dough!

    March 4, 2020 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    A rare treat of proper breads in Mexico.

    Good flour isn't cheap to come by in Mexico, I'm told, so maybe that explains why bread generally isn't that great, and maybe also because the demand isn't there- dough like we're into back home isn't what this country has been built on, not in its current form at least. Tortillas In one form or another, I.e. unrisen dough, is what it's all about. And result is I couldn't even find yeast the other day - in Walmart, as well. The assistant in the shop looked at Jen lile she had two heads when she asked for 'levadura'. I do hope we didn't offend by risking suggestion of some delicate lady-infection. Done now...

    I'm sat here, back in La Paz, in a mechanic's garage whilst we get some repairs done on our truck, Spud. I figured I might as well use the waiting tine to make my update for the day about bread, and the fact that we actually found some decent examples in the town of El Triunfo, yesterday. It's an old silver mining town which has been well-preserved. We'd been told by a few people that we must visit the cafe there for some bread- this is where the biker guy is meant to be. We didn't see any such dude, but it was a cool place and pretty sweet to see a wood-fired oven on the go.

    The menu was all Italian, pretty much. House-made pastas and the like. As much as I wanted to test their Lasagne - I find it hard to resist an opportunity like that, especially when it's so rare out here- I figured we really should go with something from the oven, so pizza it was, whilst Susie and Patrick went for Lasagne, much to my curiosity. At about $15, thr pizza was far from what we typically spend- our daily budget is $14 to cover both food and a few beers or whatever. But, sometimes, needs must.

    The result was better than the norm for this kind of thing here, but a bit short of what your mind goes to when you think of pizza. It was, at least, twice the size of Jen's head. The base was nice and thin, and crust crisp. The tomato sauce was decent, and they understood the idea of less is more- something that almost no pizza restaurants seem to get their head around. It always surprises me- you can serve better pizza that will cost you less to make, if you just put less on it! I guess maybe that's not what 'the people' want, and who am I to argue.

    The owner of the place is self-taught, so that's a nice part of the story. Hopefully one day I'll be able to say the same.

    It has all got me to thinking, despite the flour situation, we need to get in the case with making our own breads now that we have a van with an oven. So, I'm thinking Rosemary Focaccia would be a good starting point- that said, finding rosemary here is hit and miss. Maybe oregano and tomato. Focaccia in any case. Watch this space.

    For now, I just want the work to be done here so that I can join Jen in town for some long-awaited local food, served up on plastic plates as we sit on plastic chairs, eating at a plastic table, with a plastic cover, on the side of the road, side by side with local people, looking out over the Sea of Cortez. Canne beat it. I wonder if they know how good they have it, here.

    I have a little rapport with the mechanic boss here. I should maybe take the opportunity to ask him about food over in Mazatlàn in the mainland, where he's from, and where we'll be heading next, likely early next week.
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  • Day 29

    Simple, if not easy

    March 5, 2020 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Classic Baja seafood, done to perfection

    The Sea of Cortez provides some of the best seafood on the planet, in abundance. From what I've seen so far, they don't mess with it here too much, though so far as street eats and family restaurants are concerned, anyway- it's Baja fish tacos with the batter; some ceviches, usually on a tostada (crispy round tortilla); shrimp and sometimes crab. Although, I have seen manta ray which kinds hits me a bit because, for some reason, I hadn't imagined they would be eaten because they are such iconic creatures- I thought maybe they'd be protected. They also have Marlin in some places, but definitely not so common.

    Yesterday, Jen picked out somewhere that sounded like a bit of an institution here with the locals, called Taco Fish- does what it says on the tin, we figured, and we were defo in the mood for some of that action.

    A stroll through the markets on the way was nice-  we'll need to revisit there as we do like to eat in mercados as it's a true experience. Always simple, focused and priced for locals. I like that people specialise so much here, it only produces great results. It reminds me of Italy on the produce front- I remember in a market near Sienna in Tuscany, there was a buffalo mozzarella guy, and then a guy who only did Burrata mozzarella- it was so cool that he specialised on one particular version of an already quite specific skill when it comes to cheese. Fantastic.

    On arriving at Taco Fish, we saw it packed with locals- maybe more of the middle-class working type than those we sit beside at street-stalls. The restaurant was certainly a bit more modern and polished than many that we choose to eat in. The menu was simple:  3 kinds of soft tacos, 3 kinds of tacos dorados (basically stuffed and fried in a roll or like an empanada shape), a couple of ceviches and that was it. So that was the simple bit.

    Deciding was not so simple- torn between sticking with what I know I'll love and that will hit the spot, and being more adventurous, but risking disappointment- but that's the joy of the format of the food here being small enough that you can eat two or more, and it's cheap enough, you can afford to be wrong. So, I went Baja style fish tacos and a jaiba (crab) taco dorado. Jen also went for fish tacos and added a tostada with Ceviche.

    The format was also an exercise in simplicity- order at the counter, leave your name; food comes to you free of any garnish; you go and select from the garnish bar, and then pay when you leave, ordering more in between if desired. The complicated parts were a) figuring that process out with the speed at which the guy at the counter spoke, and b) trying to establish just what to put on in the way of garnishes. There were so many! And then the hot sauces, I lost count! If you're Mexican then you'll already know your go-to, but for me it was all too much and I was a bit blinded by it all, and with everyone buzzing around me, knowing their shit, I just grabbed some stuff and hoped for the best. There are worse problems to have.

    Even after studying what I added, I'm not even sure what I added to mine to be honest. Some cabbage for sure, some kinda loose guacamole squeez bottle sauce, and then some onions with what both Jen and I thought were shredded carrots. We thought it was all a bit in the hot side which is when the penny dropped that the orange strips were not grated carrots, but , in fact, sliced orange habanero chillies. Ooft. I do like my food hot, though, so carry on, I did, Jen removed a few, I think, although she's definitely cranking up the heat versus her old tastes. Mexico does that to you.

    The fish tacos were fantastic, I loved the approach of taking a slice it from a bigger piece of fish instead of the more typical nugget format, and it was a fair old chunk they served up, too. My crab taco dorado was interesting- absolutely packed with meat, unusually low on flavourings and spicing, but better for it. The crab wasn't as sweet, strong in flavour, or delicate as what we're more used to with brown crab in the UK- it was fleshier, something akin to tinned tuna if you pulled it all apart.

    Jen devoured her fish taco and was a big fan of the Ceviche. Let's face it, nothing will ever live up to how they do it in Peru, but this was by far the most solid attempt yet since we were last down in Lima. Super fresh, nicely balanced on acidity, plenty of fresh, light veg throughout and the contrast with the crispy tostada underneath worked a treat. The one thing I notice with Mexican food is that getting mucky is part of the deal- liquid isn't strained out, for example, so your Ceviche will be dripping it's juices down your face, and hands, and up your sleeve. Once you're over it being a less civilised experience than you're used to, the mess becomes part of the experience you enjoy, and actually look for. It's part of the culture as I see it.

    So that was that. Simple satisfaction, and for less than $10 USD. I suspect we'll be back before we leave Baja for mainland Mexico, arriving in Mazatlàn, Sinaloa, on Monday. I also want to cram in some Pollo Asado (BBQ chicken) from a roadside joint. How we've not eaten this staple within the 6 weeks we've been in Baja, I have no idea.
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  • Day 30

    Classic to contemporary

    March 6, 2020 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    A full day veggie of eating

    Yesterday morning started with the intent of exercise. Then Jen saw an advert for a pancake offer somewhere on Saturday and, within five minutes, our walk had been sliced in favour of the nearest place that served up pancakes.

    So, whilst there was no doubt what Jen would be ordering, I was a little less certain at first, until I spotted Chilaquiles on the menu- a fairly classic Mexican dish that's eaten at breakfast or later if desired. Jen asked me what they consisted of, but I wasn't sure- I was just following my intent to try stuff I'm not familiar with. I was willing to bet on tortillas of some kind, likely refried beans, some kinda red or green sauce, and maybe some cheese. And I was right, save for the addition of my choice of fried egg or chicken. I opted for egg, partly as I like to see how places here do at vegetarian food as it's not really their skillet. It was also an opportunity to keep my instances of eating meat balanced.

    Jen seemed pretty chuffed with her pancakes. My Chilaquiles were outstanding, specifically the red sauce which had a tang and texture a bit more like a good Italian pomodoro sauce, but the flavours and kick of classic Mexican. The sour cheese offset it nicely and, as always, refried beans just ground the whole thing with that savoury flavour and texture which shouldn't be right, but really is.

    It was quite a touristic restaurant we are in, right on the Malecon (promenade), so for the food to be that good, and for about $8, we were pretty impressed.

    Lunch was skipped as breakfast was big and we hadn't done the exercise to deserve the calories. Dinner came after a visit to the dentist to see about repairing my third broken tooth of the last 18 months. This time, we were in a funky little vegetarian restaurant with a lovely young team running the joint. We ordered an tasting plate, consisting of spinach and corn empanadas (blue corn tortillas), a black bean and rice burger, falafel, guac, fries, and then this falafel pastor thing, I.e. a veggie alternative to classic meat Pastor, the Persian inspired shaved spiced meat. On the side, Pastor sauce and another which I failed to identify and forgot to ask.

    Everything was tasty enough, and a pleasant alternative. The pastor dish gave me an idea, though- basically, I could do the same kind of thing, but with my veggie burger. I'm thinking broken into bits, minus the panko, then fried to create a similar mouthfeel to the little pieces of meat you have trimmed from the kebab. I'll tweak the spicing and come up with a pastor sauce, playing around with what was in theirs- tomatoes (roasted, I think), tomatillos, fresh Serrano chillies, dried Ancho chillies and cilantro. Watch this space.

    Overall, the experience of being there was nice. It's good to see places pushing a different agenda to the mainstream, and trying to knock out credible alternatives. A few tweaks on execution and they could have a really smart and punchy proposition.

    If I don't eat with emote fish tacos or pollo asado today, I will consider the day, maybe even the trip, a failure. We'll be heading back out into some wild camp spots as of tomorrow's so it'll be back into some of my own food. I've still not made my take on Tostielotes, and I've a bag of tostitos there, as well as some leftover veggie chilli in the freezer, so I need to follow through on that one.
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  • Day 31

    Taco Fish: The Return

    March 7, 2020 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Upping the ante in the institution that is Taco Fish!

    Well, I have not yet manages pollo asado here and time is running out, but yesterday, we made a point of hitting Taco Fish once more. Normally, especially when taking people somewhere you've recommended, it's risky to expect your second experience to match your first. It's even rarer for it to exceed, but it did.

    Things started well with a lovely old guy in the street offering to watch our vehicles as the street we parked on maybe wasn't the most secure. When we got there, it was packed with locals on their lunch break that they tend to take later here, in Mexico. Jen decided to go for the same order as last time- a fish taco, and a Ceviche tostada. I went for three things- two in there is enough, but I wanted to experience different. I got a fish tacos because it's rude not to, a shrimp taco, and then a taco with a chilli relleno filled with octopus and marlin. Susie and Patrick went for fish and shrimp tacos.

    The fish tacos were just on another level- I asked the manager guy what kind of fish it was, and was told Pierna. Not unlike haddock, maybe, for us Brits. So crispy, not at all greasy and, instead of that side of 'chippy' (fish and chip shop, for non-Brits) chips - which we miss dearly - having it in a taco with all of those fresh flavours and textures is a real treat.

    The shrimp (camaron) tacos were epic as well, nice firm flesh, and also done in batter. Jen's Ceviche was a winner once more. And that stuffed chilli with the octopus and marlin was something else. I'm often funny with ordering octopus- cooked anything other than perfectly, it is offensive, so it's always a risky move, but once again, the taco format of eating afforded me the opportunity to be wrong with relatively low risk. It really was outstanding. The octopus was like butter. I tried to determine how it had been cooked, but gave up in favour of just getting my food all over my face and groaning with pleasure.

    I managed to compose myself a bit better at the garnish bar this time which meant I spotted what I missed last time out- chipotle mayo and sour cream. Sweet Lord. I hardly even took many photos, I was just so immersed in the eating.

    When we went to pay, I got chatting to a guy in the queue, Carlos, from Puerto Vallarta. He spoke great English, but I tried to stick to Spanish a sits good practise and I the show of effort makes for a better relationship, especially in those early moments. He gave us the wonderful news that there's another Taco Fish in Guadalajara, where we're headed soon! He also gave us some recommendations for streetfood in his hometown where we'll be before Guadalajara. Had we not been in a queue and all about to leave- he also seemed to be on a mission somewhere- I think this would have made a great candidate for a first in-depth conversation/interview about food, so I was a little sorry to say goodbye. Not to worry, though, I made the most of the time I had with him, and I can be happy with that.

    We left with a couple of treats in hand for the old-timer who was watching our rides, making sure that we put back a little bit of the love we get from the people here. What a wonderful country Mexico is.
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  • Day 33

    Bossing the Leftovers

    March 9, 2020 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Making the most of our spare ingredients, and sharing some food with new friends- at Balandra once again!

    As we're due to cross to the mainland today- we're currently sat waiting on getting onto the boat- we needed to take a step back and look at our produce as the customs guys sometimes like to take fresh produce from you to help control the spread of bugs.

    From our travels before, we know this sometimes results in some interesting concoctions in a bid not to waste anything. On this occasion, it was complicated slightly further by the fact that I'm trying to control certain elements of my diet in an attempt to limit the effects of what I think is an intestinal parasite that I seem to be carrying- I need a doctor soon to get that confirmed and dealt with.

    So, cucumbers and habaneros were pickled; I rustled together a great pasta sauce with tomatoes, aubergine, onion and oregano, blitzed; green tomatoes were turned into some green sauce, although I bloody well burned the tomatoes so the recovery mission resulted in a smaller portion than planned. I needed up the coriander content in the green sauce as well to use what I could of what I had left of that, the result being pretty good, actually. Lastly, leftover chipotle chillies blitzed with some mayonaise- I didn't make my own mayo, as I wanted the pasteurized bottled stuff so it'll last.

    Jen made us a bunch of 'vannini' with asadero cheese with a lemon and oregano olive oil marinade- a take on a BBQ halloumi dish I used to do at home- all that stuffed in the tortilla with fresh tomato and heated in a non-stick was a delight.

    Lastly, Jen put her skills to work once more to knock out easily the best Spanish Tortilla that we've ever made. Our previous attempt using our new cast iron skillet resulted in it sticking- the pan needs further use with easier foods before it'll really turn as non stick as you hope for. So this time, she used a non-stick frying pan, and altered the recipe to cook the potatoes in a full cup of olive oil first. She tweaked the recipe to include some white onion, and boom! What a result. She was so (deservedly) pleased. We've been munching it with the pasta sauce I made and some good old British HP Sauce. The Spaniards would likely slaughter us for such an offensive act, but screw it. Why not?!

    Our other notable story on the food front was when Thom and Madi came to visit- our friends, Patrick and Susie, had met then whilst a walk at Balandra. They came and hung out for a while and, seeing as Susie was assembling some leftover veggie burgers anyway, we offered to defrost some more and feed the guys, also. Madi is Celiac, so couldn't have the veggie burger, so instead, she got some tortilla chips with my bean chilli, guac and pick de Gallo. All the food went down really well. It's so nice to spread the love via making happy bellies. It's the one thing I can give people, and it is my pleasure to do so.

    So, next stop, Mazatlàn after our 18 hour ferry ride to get over the Sea of Cortez. I'm not sure we'll hang out there- it's a city twice as big as La Paz, so we may well just move on as we don't hear anything about the place that makes it sound like a desirable stop. We'll be pushing down towards the fairly touristic Puerto Vallarta and around, before heading to Guadalajara where I believe we can expect some great food, not least in Taco Fish! We have some contacts who we'll likely be meeting there, so I'm sure we can get the inside track and maybe I can finally start getting under the skin of some real food stories and personal history.
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