American Adventure

June - August 2017
A 50-day adventure by Joey Read more
  • 57footprints
  • 3countries
  • 50days
  • 388photos
  • 4videos
  • 24.1kkilometers
  • 17.1kkilometers
  • Day 7

    On the Road

    July 5, 2017 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    The time has come for our first road trip. We set off with ease down the interstate towards the Cape trying not to look too smug at all the 4th July commuters coming home. The first pit stop with our new wheels (nicknamed Nora the Nissan) was a Dunkin Donuts drive thru for iced hot chocolate. Oh yeah. We know how to live it up!

    We have literally fallen on our feet in terms of accomodation here. We were offered a lakeside house in West Yarmouth FOC on the basis there's no hot water. We took it and we could not be more pleased with it. We only apologise to our fellow passengers onto the train to Chicago on Friday :-/

    Whilst the drive wasn't long (about 2 hours) the stress of remembering to stay on the right side of the road couples with the sheer step count of the last week got the better of me today so I spent most of the afternoon napping. Thankfully Kate was more than happy chilling on the porch with her sketchbook.

    Once a little refreshed we headed out to explore the Cape during 'golden hour' and even found a light house! The houses are so quaint and beautiful. I could move here tomorrow. Being out of the city is also a nice change in pace and very much welcome right now.

    Tomorrow we leave the car in Falmouth, MA en route to Martha's Vineyard. How fitting!
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  • Day 8

    Life on the Cape

    July 6, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We woke up after a wonderful night's sleep not only in our own beds but our own rooms! What a treat! Not that sharing a bed with Kate isn't a very special treat ;-)

    We're so lucky to have been offered this great home to stay in for a couple of nights. Sadly as we cancelled our Hyannis hostel at such late notice we still had to pay for one night but it was totally worth it.

    We're becoming quite self sufficient when it comes to food to cut down on costs so generally have cereal, fruit and yoghurts for breakfast and make ourselves packed lunches for the day. After breakfast, we set off for Woods Hole (just south of Falmouth) where we were set to get the ferry to Martha's Vineyard. It's worth noting that there are various ferry routes available to MV. This one is by far the cheapest at $15 for the park and ride followed by $17 return for the 45 minute ferry crossing. Several of the other ferries cost $60 plus before parking.

    Thankfully our commute to MV was seamless. I had been concerned the day before that it could be stressful and I was in need of some downtime after our ridiculous step counts of the last week.

    The ferry ride was very pleasant. The temperature on the Cape has been in the early 20s which has been a refreshing change from the early to mid 30s of the past week!

    Once at MV, we headed straight to the bus and jumped on the first available with the intention of travelling around the island and hopping on and off where we fancied. Whilst the day riders were very reasonable, the bus network was very complicated. We started hatching a convoluted plan to reach the furthest point of the island (Gay Head Lighthouse) and soon came to realise that we were trying to do too much and after speaking with a couple of transit authority reps agreed we would simply visit Vineyard Haven (where we were already headed on bus number 13), Edgartown and Oaks Bluff (where the ferry landed and would depart). This was much more sensible and chilled out.

    The bus journeys were very scenic passing white beaches and millionaire summer homes. We enjoyed mooching around the towns. Edgartown was full of high end stores. It reminded me a little of Dartmouth in Devon. It had a Jack Wills Store which contained photographs of stores from all across the world including Bath and Harrogate. If we'd been further into our trip I'd have probably felt quite homesick.

    Oaks Bluff was a little more touristy with cheaper seaside stores but it held the biggest treat of all - the Gingerbread Houses. The Gingerbread Houses are a collection of beautiful wooden houses of all colours in their own small community behind the main street in Oaks Bluff. Many of them are available to rent. Some are simply lived in. Kate and I were in our element here choosing our ideal home. I still haven't decided!

    MV was definitely worth the visit but exceedingly busy. I'd recommend going in late Spring or early Fall when it's a little quieter. I was expecting the price of things to be more expensive but things seemed rather reasonable. It's a very 'cute' island - lots of pretty houses, boats and clearly a lot of money!

    We returned from MV to the car about 18.30 and headed into Falmouth MA for a nosey. We only had a couple hours of daylight left so we went lighthouse hunting and generally mosey'd down the coast back to our cottage in the woods where we made dinner, packed for the next day and attempted to get an early night.

    We wanted to leave our kind hosts some thank you gifts so bought them a hummingbird feeder, cat treats for Petunia and Kate did them a lovely drawing of the house. I drew them a cartoon picture of the Spaghetti Bandit who we were very disappointed but at the same time relieved not to meet. Who on earth is the Spaghetti Bandit?' I hear you say. Well...

    A couple of years ago, our hosts arrived at their lakeside abode to find the house open and lights on. Convinced they'd been broken into, they called the police. As they started to search the property, it became clear nothing had really been stolen and oddly the place seemed cleaner than ever. Clothes and towels had been laundered and put away, dishes washed, surfaces dusted, floors cleaned. The final oddity was that the kitchen cupboards were a little sparser than usual, most notably lacking in pasta. The policemen looked at each other and nodded. They'd seen the signs before. This could be the handiwork of only one crook - the Spaghetti Bandit. The Spaghetti Bandit was becoming notorious in the area for moving into empty properties, eating any food they could find but generally leaving the place in a better condition than when they arrived. The Spaghetti Bandit was on the loose and no one knew where he or she might strike next. This case belonged to none other than Inspector Nuts. This is a true story! Our hosts never did find out who the SB was so Kate and I decided he was a raccoon.

    Anyway, after that tangent, I hope you enjoyed my slightly delayed but longer blog post! Be great to know if you're reading. You don't have to sign up to the site. You can just drop me a message - I have full phone and data access.
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  • Day 9

    Travelling West

    July 7, 2017 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    Today we said goodbye to the Cape and embarked on our big journey across the USA. What better way to start such a big day but with a proper diner breakfast - shockingly our first in the last 8 days! We could not have had a better recommendation. The Route 28 Diner in West Yarmouth was everything you would hope a roadside diner to be - the pictures will say more than I can in words. Although I did fail to photograph the rest room which was wall to wall licence plates. The Lego girls particularly enjoyed the Lego Diner although were disappointed they couldn't join in the fun (it was behind glass and not easy to access).

    Just as soon as I was getting used to driving in the states and Kate's nerves were starting to calm as I was committing to memory 'stay right', it was time to drop Nora back to Boston. At least it's given me a good warm up for the 2 week stint in California next week. Eeeeek! How is this all happening so fast?!

    Our train to Chicago was on time and we were really pleased when we saw how spacious the seats were. We opted to sit opposite each other (across the aisle) so as to ensure a window seat each. This was a good move. Despite writing a 'to do list' for on the train which included activities such as reading, postcard writing, photo editing, script writing, budgeting (eugh) - I managed to complete about half of one item and spent the rest of the time catching up with the world, gazing out the window, napping and generally procrastinating!

    We had a 45 minute stop in Albany so Kate and I opted to get out and stretch our legs. This is expected although it was quite disconcerting when they temporarily restricted boarding as they had to rearrange the carriages and we watched our train pull away without us!

    Around 22:30, I had a hot chocolate date in the cafe car just before bedtime which was very 'Before Sunrise' - only the special few will get that reference. I'm now all tucked up with blanket, pillow, reclined seat, ear plugs and fox eye mask ready to attempt some kip (sorry too dark for pictures!). I've set an alarm for Sunrise to hopefully catch Lake Erie passing by. Sorry fellow passengers but I only intend to do this once and you made me listen to all your inane phone calls all afternoon!

    Speak to you from the next time zone...
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  • Day 10

    Windy City

    July 8, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    After a long night on the train with very little sleep we rolled into Chicago just after 10am having travelled through yet another timezone.

    Thankfully I managed to wake up for the Sunrise over Lake Erie which was very special and the stretch into Chicago itself was also very scenic.

    We beelined for the hostel in desperate hope of an early check in for if not sleep, at least showers and laundry facilities! Our room wasn't ready but 2 out of 3 ain't bad. Feeling refreshed and laundered, Kate and I ventured out into the city towards Millennium Park in search of the infamous 'bean'. It was harder to find that you'd think but we eventually got there and took all the required reflective selfies (see below). Despite a breeze, it was very hot with few shaded areas and by mid afternoon I was starting to hit a wall. I decided the best thing was to go and check in and attempt to get some sleep.

    We're in a 10 bed female dorm in the HI Hostel just off Millennium Park. The facilities are all very clean, beds comfortable with plenty of sockets etc by your bed and lockers. Having done the rounds of hostels in Europe with Louise in 2014, I'd put it in the 4* category. I completely forgot to bring a padlock with me so had to purchase one from the front desk. Annoyingly it's a rotary combination lock which I've always been pants at operating so don't be surprised if you hear I've locked myself out of all my belongings!

    I woke up just before 7 to find Kate on her way back to the hostel and ready to go eat. Perfect. There were two must-dos for food in Chicago according to Kate. One was pizza - obviously, the other Panda Express. As there was a Panda Express right opposite the hostel, we opted for the latter tonight. It was a solid choice and we will doubtless find another in California if we can.

    After dinner, Kate persuaded me to join her on a little bike ride around the lakeside. She had spent her afternoon doing just that on Chicago's answer to the 'Boris Bike' and had a 24 hour pass for 9.99. Not a bad deal. You get 30 minutes for free and then you need to re-park the bike at a suitable station and take out another. I'm not great on bikes but it was actually a real delight. It helped that most of the journey was completely flat! We are intending to use them again tomorrow. We cycled to the planetarium where we watched the fireworks being let off at the pier and then cycled back to Millennium Park. It was about then that Kate finally hit her exhaustion wall so we walked back to the hostel and crashed. I got chatting to our of our fellow dorm mates who happens to be from Herefordshire and whose boyfriend lives in Cam! What are the chances?! Just shows how small the world is.

    I'll leave you with this random fact. There are conflicting stories as to why Chicago is so-called the Windy City. My preferred choice is this one: it is the effects of the tall buildings which engineers and architects apparently did not foresee that the wind is sucked down into the streets. Walk past the Masonic Temple or the Auditorium any day even though it may be perfectly calm elsewhere, and you will meet with a lively breeze at the base of the building that will compel you to put your hand to your hat. Having worn my hat today, I can testify to this.

    Goodnight
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  • Day 11

    We Found Penguins!

    July 9, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    After yesterday's adventures on the bikes, we decided to continue said adventure and cycle to Lincoln Park. The ride was beautiful along the lake and through the gardens. Kate and I started playing games with our bicycle bells. If we saw a good looking man it was one ring. If we saw a very good looking man it was two. If we saw Tom Hiddleston it was five rings and we'd give chase. I'm sad to say neither of our bells rang very much but it made us both smirk all the same.

    Once arriving in Lincoln Park we headed for the free zoo which is where we did indeed FIND PENGUINS! I'm sorry, I don't know why this blogging website is called that either but I appreciate it's randomness all the same. After a few hours wandering around the zoo and lying down trying to cool down on shady park benches, we cycled back to Navy Pier. Here we had a splash in the fountains with hundreds of young people in an attempt to cool down!

    From there we took a water taxi across the bay to the aquarium to admire the skyline from the water. It was well worth the trip and cost considerably less than any of the boat tours.

    As we'd had rather a physical day on both the bikes and with the heat, we opted to head back to the hostel for showers and a rest before heading out for the infamous Chicago Deep Dish Pizza that evening and of course seeing 'the bean' by night.

    We had spent most of the day deciphering the best pizza restaurant in town. We consulted the hostel, the internet, my lonely planet guide - we even asked strangers. We eventually settled on Giordano's which was conveniently situated just opposite 'the bean'. Despite a long wait, our 'Chicago Classic' pizza was worth waiting for and we even had leftovers for tomorrow's lunch.

    Big day tomorrow as we board the California Zephyr bound for San Francisco. Eeeeek! It's all whizzing by so fast. I hope you're keeping up.
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  • Day 12

    Steaks on a Train

    July 10, 2017 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    Today we bid farewell to Chicago and embarked on our biggest journey of the adventure on board the California Zephyr train to Emeryville (with a connecting coach to San Francisco). The 2448 mile journey will take just over two days and takes us through 7 states and 3 different time zones. For those of you that are particularly interested you can read the full guide for the California Zephyr and the sights it travels past at the following link:

    https://www.amtrak.com/ccurl/692/258/Amtrak-Cal…

    Before I tell you all about our very own Casey Junior, let me say a fond farewell to Chicago. Chicago is not somewhere I've ever yearned to visit but having spent two nights there, I long to go back. My previous impressions of the 'windy city' had always seemed somewhat cold, 'windy', crime ridden and unwelcoming. Granted I've taken this from various US TV dramas and films over the years. It certainly wasn't a happy place in Sleepless in Seattle! However, this could not be further from the truth. The city seemed so full of light and colour not to mention it's diverse and stunning architecture. The colour of the lake is a beautiful turquoise blue which makes the place all the more exotic. I guess the point I'm making is - Chicago is worth a visit.

    We spent the early morning repacking for our big journey... every time we do this I have flashbacks to my recurring nightmare about packing. It's awful. I genuinely have a recurring nightmare where I'm somewhere unfamiliar, running late and struggling to get all the possessions I need into a specific set of limited luggage. Generally just as I think I'm done, several drawers full of more things show up and I have a panic attack. Needless to say, every packing routine is met with a little anxiety! However, so far so good and I still have some space in my suitcase.

    Once packed, we ventured outdoors to experience 'the loop' - the elevated subway system in Chicago to take a unique tour of the city. This was easily the best $3 we've spent.

    We got back to the hostel to pick up our bags and enjoy our left over pizza from Giordano's for lunch only to find some *** had gone and swiped it from the fridge. Whoever stole our pizza - we hope you choke on it! Chicago pizza theft is taken very seriously in this city and so I'm pleased to say the police department have their finest officers on the case. I've heard they're even going to call in Inspector Nuts from Massachusetts!

    Once over our trauma, we made our way to Union Station to pick up the Zephyr.

    We are really pleased with our 'roomette'. I wish I could photograph it better for you. Essentially we have two very large comfortable seats opposite one another in our own compartment which at night folds down into two decent sized bunk beds. We also have a large window to watch the world go by from. All of our meals are included so we venture to the dining car for 3 meals a day. This is a 4 carriage wobbly walk via the Observation Car which is also a delight. We enjoyed a short stint in their after dinner to watch the sunset. Dinner was ok - I had the Amtrak Steak Special which actually wasn't half bad. It's a shame everything is served on plastic plates etc I guess you get what you pay for! We were sat with two Physics students from University of Southampton believe it or not and one of which has their PPL so naturally we got talking about aviation rather a lot.

    Our beds are very cosy... so cosy I fell asleep before finishing this post!
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  • Day 13

    Fly Away on my Zephyr

    July 11, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    Our first full day on a long distance train and what an experience it has been. We always thought the route would be scenic but nothing could have prepared us for the sights we saw. We travelled through canyons, along great rivers, around rocky mountains, past bears and bald eagles. Tomorrow only brings us more.

    We were also lucky to make several new friends. We throughly enjoyed the company of Texas-based photographer Stephanie who had some very cool photography gadgets which she let us play with including glass prisms for refracting light in wierd and wonderful ways. Stephanie also had Disney films on her laptop which we watched in between the stunning scenery so naturally we became the best of friends for our short stint together. It also meant we managed to 'hog' a table seat in the Observation lounge for essentially the entire day which seemed very cheeky but we were told 'anyone that can - does'.

    We enjoyed 3 meals in the dining car including french toast which was a first for me and I will definitely be having it again! Our dining companions were a wonderful Californian couple who were able to impart much wisdom and experience on us for our upcoming adventures in the Golden State.

    We are now on the aptly named 'Mountain Time' soon to be Pacific. You'll be pleased to know our step count has massively reduced since we boarded the train with today's count reaching a whopping 1853 which is still a little surprising. I wonder how much of that has been generated by the movement of the train!

    Anyway, I shall leave you with a suitable bunch of photos to reflect the wonderful day we've had and bid you all a happy Wednesday x
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  • Day 14

    Across America

    July 12, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We did it. We travelled over 3,000 miles by train from the East Coast to the West Coast of the USA. Wow. WE DID THAT. Kate and I quite regularly have these little moments where we check ourselves and realise what an amazing adventure we've embarked on so don't ever think we don't appreciate how lucky we both are.

    We were genuinely sad to leave our 'Zephyr' this evening. Our fellow passengers and train crew had become a temporary little community most likely never to meet again.

    It was my turn on the top bunk last night and I have to say it was no where near as comfortable. Needless to say I was a bit tired today and spent more of the day in our roomette snoozing and generally shutting the world out. The scenery was yet again amazing travelling through Nevada and California - the photographs really don't do it justice.

    We are all settled into our San Francisco hostel now and I'm very sleepy. I promise to write a longer post next time. Pictures will have to say more than words tonight.
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  • Day 15

    Blazing Saddles Across the Bay

    July 13, 2017 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    Today we enjoyed a bicycle tour across the Golden Gate Bridge with the Blazing Saddles Tour Company. It took 3 hours and took in many great sights and vistas. Typically the bridge itself was in fog but it was still very spectacular to cycle across.

    Kate and I are having to adapt to much cooler temperatures here but we hopefully won't have to adapt for long as we push on down the Pacific Coast Highway tomorrow afternoon.

    Our tour finished in Sausalito so we enjoyed a few hours mooching around the shops and pedalling further into the town to visit the infamous house boats.

    On our return via ferry we met a family from Wilmslow (not far from where I grew up). I have stopped being amazed by how small this world is!

    Once the bikes had been returned we enjoyed a further mooch around Fisherman's Wharf and then very slowly climbed the hill back to the hostel.

    Aching all over from all the cycling, I hope I will sleep well tonight!
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