• Kim Verbarg
Mar – Apr 2024

El Camino de Santiago

Pilgramage of 128 kilometers. Sister bonding on a bucket list trip of a lifetime. Mindfulness and spiritual renewal. Transitions in life. The Portuguese Way, Baiona to Santiago de Compostela. Read more
  • Trip start
    March 22, 2024

    Packing

    March 22, 2024 in the United States ⋅ 🌬 68 °F

    It's been a very busy few days... 3 days of clinic, 2 days on call, 2 months of billing backlog, delivered 4 babies in 22 hours, and little sleep. Now I'm sore from wrangling an 11 pound 14 ounce baby out... and I haven't even started the Camino yet.

    Thankfully, I've already done a lot of preparation, writing out my packing list, and gathering everything together into a pile over the last two weeks.

    Here's my packing list:
    Backpack with camel bladder
    Fanny pack for easy to reach in the front
    Water bottle
    Wool socks, light socks
    Hiking Boots
    Tevas
    Hat for sun
    Warm hat
    Rain poncho
    Sunscreen
    Walking sticks
    Sunglasses
    Mole tape
    Electrolytes
    Energy water enhancer
    Keto powder
    Nuts
    Keto bars
    Wet wipes
    Paper towels
    First aid kit
    Euro outlet converter
    Heating pad
    Solar powered battery backup
    Phone and chargers
    Leggings insulated
    Shorts
    T-shirts
    Sweatshirt
    Jacket
    Umbrella
    Water-resistant pants and jacket
    Gloves
    Knee support wraps
    Ear pods
    Laptop.... Have to do payroll...
    Meds and supplements
    Passport / Global Entry
    Dclips
    Dresses, jeans, casual clothes for touring
    Underwear
    Swimsuit
    Small white tennies
    Makeup and toiletries
    Dyson Airwrap
    Dry Shampoo
    Some leftover Euros from last trip
    ... and my American Express Card!

    We'll see what else hops in there.

    At this point, I'm soaking in an Epsom salt bath with the realization that this could be my last bath for 2.5 weeks. The laundry has been started and the empty suitcase is waiting for me to fill it.

    The airport ride is scheduled for 10:30 am. I think I can get it all done and sleep a little, too. I'm so excited about this journey.
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  • Tampa International Airport

    March 23, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Almost 5 hours prior to my flight, Southwest Airlines started issuing significant flight delays.

    My scheduled agenda was four flights: Tampa to Atlanta, where I was to meet my sister. Then Newark, Lisbon, and finally Porto, arriving tomorrow morning.

    With the delay, I wasn't going to make it to Atlanta in time to get my baggage and get to the United Airlines flight to Newark.

    So, while riding in my pre-scheduled ride to the airport, I scrambled to book a flight directly to Newark. $288 later and $40 more to check my 49.5 pound suitcase, I'm here at the airport 4 hours before my flight.

    P.F. Changs's bloody Mary is not too shabby. Here's to no more delays and smooth travels.

    See ya in Newark, Donna!
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  • Newark Airport

    March 23, 2024 in the United States ⋅ 🌬 41 °F

    Got to Newark. Had to exit security to go get my bag and recheck it... MY TICKET WAS CANCELED by mistake when I didn't board the Atlanta flight.

    I made it barely. Had to purchase a new ticket from Lisbon to Porto. But on the plane!! Not sitting together now, but we're going to try to sleep.Read more

  • Lisbon Airport

    March 24, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Arrived to Lisbon. Standing in line behind thousands of people to go through customs, despite having global entry. Have to get my luggage from baggage claim, get a new boarding pass, recheck baggage, and get on a plane that is supposed to leave in 1hr 15 min. Again, Donna and I are separated. I really don't think I'm going to make this flight.

    ... I did not make it. $300 later I'm on the next flight in 2 hrs. I arrive 30 min before we meet our group and the van transport leaves Porto for Baiona.

    I'm exhausted. Back aches. Ankles are swollen. Running through airports while translating signs... not much sleep, just doze until nodding wake me up or I realize I'm leaning a bit too much towards the man sitting next to me.

    Thank you to all the kind souls who helped me find my way and get me through this fiasco.

    But I'm feeling confident that I will make it in time to meet the group... and I got a Starbucks.

    Now they double booked my seat, so don't have a seat... could something just go right?? Please
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  • Parador de Baiona - The Retreat Begins

    March 24, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Seven women from across the globe meet together in Porto to walk their individual pilgrimages in a shared experience. We come from Australia, Scotland, and the US (Iowa, Georgia and Florida). We range in age from 51 to 59.

    This retreat is led by Lisa Staab, a mindfulness coach, Reiki Master, Chef and foodie. We are focusing on mindfulness. Nine attributes of mindfulness... let's see how many I can remember. Surrender, acceptance, letting go, childlike spirit, gratitude, generosity. Becoming childlike and being able to see every moment for a beginner's point of view stands out to me the most.

    We traveled from Porto to Baiona, Spain, where we are staying at Parador de Baiona, this beautiful castle surrounded by water.

    I was able to get a one hour nap, charge my phone and connect to wifi, shower, and make it to our group meeting and dinner. It was a great evening getting to know each other.

    Lisa gave each of us bags with our Camino passport, shell to hang on our backpacks, a foot bath container, a bracelet, journal, tea, bath balms, nuts, and chocolate.

    I'm looking forward to a good night's sleep!
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  • Weather

    March 25, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    After breakfast, Donna and I took a walk, hoping to beat the rain. We got about 30 min in before a heavy mist began, and we made a beeline back to the hotel.

    Did get a few pictures, and I think that is the Camino trail along the coast.

    The weather is not looking good all week. In fact, there is a storm warning in effect for the next couple of days... wind, rain, ice, and snow.

    I'm not sure I packed warm enough.

    So, back in the room, I'm going to start getting my backpack ready and repack the suitcase. Then I'll try to figure out what I'm wearing to lunch. We have to walk 1 km to le restaurante. Yes, I'm trying to figure out what to wear for a 1 km walk in the rain when I'm about to start a 126 km walk. Makes no sense. Obviously, that's the whole reason I'm here. It just feels different now, and I feel slightly unprepared for the weather.

    Picture of the forecast here and we're headed north. I don't have a picture of the long list of severe weather warnings that Kelly showed us at breakfast. Tomorrow, rain and 40's all day, winds at 12-18 mph... 26 km planned to walk. That equals 16 miles. Lord, help us.
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  • Restaurante Naveira

    March 25, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 54 °F

    We were treated to paella for lunch at this lovely restaurant. Then we strolled the city and stopped for cappuccinos. Making new friends.

  • Baiona, Galicia Spain

    March 25, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

    Baiona Spain was the very first place in Europe to learn than Columbus and his crews had discovered the new world when Caravel La Pinta was the first ship to return on March 1, 1493.

    Today, we meandered this beautiful town, getting in plentiful steps. After meandering the shops, we tried to take the short route back to the hotel, but ended up taking the coastal route around the castle...the one that I thought might be the Camino, but not. Such a gorgeous walk and so glad we got lost. The best moments are made in spontaneity.

    We returned to the hotel and had a nice session together. Lisa gave us each a tiger's eye stone to signify protection for our journey. We talked about non judgement as part of mindfulness. A method of practicing non judgement is calling something outloud by its name to bring attention to that thing. We had a meditation session. We could hear the elevator outside repeatedly dinging. Instead of judging it as good or bad, we just said, "elevator". It just is, and we accept it and move forward. I think this will be a great tool for grounding, to keep my mind and emotions from going wild and starting down negative paths. My muscles are beginning to relax. It always takes me two full days into a vacation to let down. I count today as day 1.

    After our session, a few of us met in the cafe for wine and tapas. We had the most interesting conversation, as Kelly suggested that we start with one question as a talking point, and each person answer the question. She obtained this idea from the book, The Art of Gathering. The question of the night was, "What one thing did your Dad teach you that had the most impact on you?" There were just 4 of us there that answered the question, yet it turned into hours of deep conversation and understanding of each other. It was productive dialogue that translated into our present lives and circumstances in a meaningful way. My lessons... 1) ask someone to help me do tasks that I'd really like to do but feel overwhelmed by and 2) talk to strangers.

    We begin our pilgramage tomorrow. The bags are packed. We'll get up and meet for breakfast at 7:30, get our Camino passports stamped, and head out on The Way.
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  • Kaffa Cafe in Ramallosa

    March 26, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    Cold and rainy, but off to a good start. Stopped for cappuccino, hot chocolate and a "wee". Iowans are so thrilled that the Hawkeyes won. We're trying to decide if we're going to stick with the coastal route or go central, due to the weather...Read more

  • Cantina San Miguel

    March 26, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    Lunch of tuna empanada, anchovy olives, frittata, and hot ginger tea. We are so cold, wet, and my feet ache. The rain somehow makes it more thrilling, but I'm starting to feel a bit delirious.

    What we've seen... calla lillies in the wild, surfers, avocado tree, lemon trees, orange trees and blossoms, wisteria, jasmine blossoming, sheep, little dogs in raincoats, purple sand.

    The coastal route takes us on the beach at turns down steep rocks, through the sand, and then back up to the street.

    We have another 10 km to go.
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  • Enchanted Eucalyptus Forest

    March 26, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    We thought we were walking 26.9 km today but it seems like it's going to be more than that

    I have my phone in airplane mode most of the time to avoid data roaming charges, so I'm oblivious to where I am and where I'm going. Which is okay.

    The group separated today into 3 groups, not on purpose; it just happened. I ended up in the last group probably because i was taking so many pictures. Comparing stories later, it's crazy how our routes and experiences differed.

    We ended up on a forest trail surrounded by eucalyptus trees. The moment we stepped in the fragrance embraced and surrounded us. The bark of these trees were peeling down to reveal the most beautiful colors in the bark.

    We came across a waterfall as well. The whole experience was magical and revived me to keep walking.

    As I was walking and trying to do the math about how many kilometers had been walked and how many were left, it just wasn't adding up for me. I felt something was definitely off, but regardless, as long as we were headed in the right direction, that was all that mattered.

    As we exited the enchanted forest, we were tested with a hard decision. Which way do we go? The signs pointed in multiple directions. I don't have service here, so I let them figure it out. This is so not like me as I'm usually the one reading the maps and sorting the directions.

    Anyway, who knows what happened. But we are so grateful for the spaces we experienced even if they weren't the most direct way.
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  • NH Collection Hotel, Vigo

    March 26, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    Well, we ended up walking over 30 kilometers today. Not really sure how far exactly. But I can say without a doubt, that I have never walked more in one day in my life.

    The last half of the walk, Lisa, Dani and I were together. Several times we asked each other, "Do you still want to walk or do you want to get a cab?" Of course, we wanted to walk.

    We kept walking, even the third time the question was posed, we kept walking. At one point, we made a decision to exit the Camino trail and use Google maps to get to the hotel...

    We still had another 10 km to go, even though it felt like we had already walked 20 or 22... because we had.

    We walked along a creek bed and then through downtown Vigo, which seemed to go on forever. Both Lisa and Dani were checking their maps for directions.

    I'm not sure how, but it seemed like Google had us on a wild goose chase circling around the city but never quite finding the hotel. I kept hearing multiple times, "It's just 2 more kilometers."

    We turn a corner, and Lisa exclains, "This is the street that our hotel is on, I think".... yeah, nah.

    It was a steep hill street lined with orange trees on both sides. The oranges from last season remained, and the orange blossoms were fragrant. Orange blosson is my absolute favorite scent. I grew up with this scent as orange groves were prolific around my hometown. They had just pruned the trees, and large limbs full of green leaves, large oranges, and orange blossoms lay on the ground as we passed. I picked an orange blossom to smell and attempted to collect oranges, but I could tell by the way they felt they were spoiled.

    Well, by the time we were turned around again and it was still 2 km away, Lisa posed the question again, "Do you want to take a cab or keep walking?" Well, I had no guarantee that Google maps would not have us walking all night long, so I voted for taxi. We had to walk another half kilometer at least to get a taxi. The taxi driver was so nice. He said, "Don't worry, you're safe with me. I've got you." After a 10 minute taxi ride, including getting on the interstate, we arrived and somehow drug ourselves out of the car and into the hotel. Whole bodies aching, legs like noodles, and feet painful yet numb at the same time, leaving us wondering what we would find when we removed our boots... all is well. We arrived.

    Today was the big day. Tomorrow, the weather is just as bad and even more windy. But we only have 13 km to hike tomorrow.

    The question is... is it really only 13 kilometers??? Dani says that kilometers are longer in Spain than they are in Australia. We are roommates tonight.
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  • Don Vinarius

    March 27, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 52 °F

    The walk today was gorgeous. It rained off and on. The wind picked up here and there. The sun never came out. The views were stunning, however.

    I felt like I was in a setting of an 16th to 18th century movie, where a queen is running for her life or perhaps going to meet her future husband and is being transported by horse and carriage through the forest. It looked just like that... bright green moss and algae growing on the trees and stone walls and ferns everywhere.

    I walked alone today for a couple of hours. I didn't intend to, but when I'm walking in the front with a hat and poncho over my head, hearing is difficult, and I didn't realize that there was no longer someone behind me. I turned around, and no one was there.

    Spring is beautiful here. Everything is blooming. With the rain, the waterfalls are flowing rapidly. The gardens are being tilled for planting. There are these little structures built up off the ground with air slats on the sides and often crosses on top of them. I believe they are for drying and storing grains, called horreos.

    My thoughts are random when I'm walking, and I observe my thoughts like passing clouds as they float in and out. I tried to meditate while walking, but that didn't work very well.

    I don't have any singular focus in my thoughts or issues that I'm processing. I'm just here. Perhaps escaping, letting go, letting down. Not being in control or knowing where I am, where I'm going, how far I've gone, or how far I have left to walk is a process of letting go for me.

    We stopped for lunch at Don Vinarius. I had a salad with lettuce, tomato, onion, carrot, sweet corn, and tuna. Wine is 2.50 Euro per glass. The cost of living and real estate is lower here it seems.
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  • My Daddy's Stride

    March 27, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 43 °F

    These are some of the things that i think about when walking...

    Dani and Donna both had 45k steps yesterday, but I had just over 40k. Yet we walked the same distance.

    So today, Donna and I counted our steps in the same period of time at the same speed of walking. I had 3 percent fewer steps than she did.

    That math still doesn't add up... so I ponder this. How do these apps figure our steps and distance? When I look it up, it says that accelerometers can be off by 2%. I figure, besides having long strides, I must walk softly and not move my body much when I'm walking.

    So my thoughts trail off... What happens to my body if I carry myself in a different alignment? What happens if I swing my hips more when I walk? Ah, that makes my back feel better. What if I run out of storage on my phone and can't take more pictures? Are there any snakes in Spain? ... it goes on and on. I find myself observing my thoughts from the outside.

    Today, I walked 6.2 miles, 10 km.

    I'm picking up some Spanish, reading signs and menus. I learned a new phrase today. "de puta madres"... our taxi driver kept saying it over and over. It's foul language for sure, but used in a certain context, it becomes a way of expressing that something is f'n awesome. Spaniards cuss a lot, I hear, in contrast to Latinos.

    I left my really nice double outlet converter at the first hotel. Today, I picked up another. Got here to the hotel, and discovered that it's for a Spanish native traveling abroad and does me no good.

    Dinner was nice. I had hake and vegetables. I'm hoping to get a good night's sleep tonight. I haven't been sleeping well. Took a benadryl tonight.

    As Chivas
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  • Adaptacion- Casa Fermín

    March 28, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 50 °F

    Day 3 of hiking, and I feel like my body is adapting. My body is accepting, surrendering to the rigor I've placed on it. The Advil helped, too.

    It rained all day, never stopped. My feet got wet for the first time. I didn't realize it, though, until I took my boots off at the end of the day.

    I'm really layered up in the morning, but then I get so hot after walking, and I have to take everything off to remove a layer. Here's the layers 1) underclothes 2) long sleeve shirt and leggings 3) sweatshirt and water resistant pants 4) coat and another set of water resistant pants 5) Fanny pack and backpack 6) Poncho. These plastic bits are very hot and don't let moisture out.

    To take off my coat and sweatshirt, I have to remove the Poncho and take off the backpack... in the rain. Remove the article, stick it in my backpack, and then put everything back on.

    I was walking solo when I arrived at a little chapel. It was small and packed with about 15 people. About half were a group of men from (not sure, they didn't speak English). I saw Caroline and Kelly at the front, so I joined them. I said something about singing Ave Maria, and then one of the men walked up to me with an orange and said, "Ave Maria."

    I walked up to the podium with my orange and began singing/ humming Ave Maria, but I couldn't remember all the words. They weren't really listening. They brought me a pocket knife to cut my orange. While standing at the front of the chapel at the podium, I peeled my orange and began singing The Alpine Shepherdess in Italian. I was breathless from the walk, and it was so cold that with each exhale, I could see my breath. My hands and the podium had orange juice all over them, and I had 15 pilgrims staring at me. It was a truly horrific rendition of the aria, but everyone was impressed and cheered as I finished.

    There was a little bar around the corner, and we heard that the rest of our group was there, so we joined them for coffee, beer, and whiskey... the latter for me.

    We came to an intersection, and there were camino arrows pointing in two different directions. The locals have always been so helpful and friendly.

    We watched a whole octopus being cooked on the street at the restaurant. Video attached.
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  • La Estafeta, Pontevedra

    March 28, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 48 °F

    A most awesome dinner, de puta madres! (I got to say it!) I had bacalao, and it was delicious. The restaurante made us sandwiches for tomorrow and gave us Leche for our coffee. It's holy weekend, so not many places open tomorrow, and we have to have our provisiones on hand.

    Tomorrow is supposed to be 21k. We plan to leave at 9am. We have atun sandwich baguettes to take with us.

    The Camino is certainly getting livelier the closer we get. The first day, we practically saw no one. The second day, a handful of other pilgrims. Today, as the central and coastal Portuguese paths come together, we saw dozens, likely a hundred. The energy is building.
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  • Lunch at O Camino d' A Eira

    March 29, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    We've walked 11 km so far today, a little more than halfway. It was raining most of the time, but we did get one hour without rain, and the sun even peeked out briefly.

    I've figured out the clothing. Much better with just my leggings, a short sleeve shirt, and a long sleeve shirt. I pulled my sleeves up so my shirt stayed dry under the poncho.

    We're at lunch now, and the sun just came out again. Maybe we'll have a dry walk this afternoon. 🤞

    Espresso and lentil soup.
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  • Caldes de Reis

    March 29, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    Arrived to our place for the night. Rest and shower. We have 2 apartments with 3 bedrooms each. We're down to 6 persons, so we each have our own room tonight.

    The walk today was good. There are times when I feel strong and am plowing through. And then other times I hit a wall and feel like I'm dragging. The feet are hurting the ankles, various parts of my body take their turns complaining.

    It rained again this afternoon, but then the sun came out for the last hour of the walk, and it was delightful. We stopped at a Cafe for a drink and then walked the final 50 min in.

    I realized that the kilometer markers on the Camino signs show how many kilometers are left to Santiago de Compostela. It took 4 days of walking before I realized that. I think it was the comma in the number instead of a period for the decimal point that mixed me up. But I found out that I wasn't the only one, so that makes me feel better.

    I really miss music. Tomorrow, I think I'm going to use my bt ear pieces. I've got some music downloaded that can play in airplane mode.

    The song that was stuck in my head today was Only You by The Revivalists.
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  • Cafe Termas

    March 29, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌩️ 46 °F

    What a beautiful town.

    I have to say the food in Spain keeps getting better and better. In the beginning, I have to admit, it was sub-par, but tonight's dinner was awesome. We ordered several dishes and shared them. Pimientos de padron, vegetables, potatoes, calamari, frittata, and the very best were the mussels. We played Russian Roulette with the peppers, and they were all mild.

    Beautiful views as we sipped wine on the river, passing people soaking their feet in the hot spring, enjoying an awesome dinner, and walking back to the apartment in the rain... all makes for a great evening.

    Tomorrow ... another 19 km.
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  • Slow like a Grandma

    March 30, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 48 °F

    It's been raining all day; temp started to drop and rain getting heavier. so I decided to stop at a cafe for a cafe con leche.

    I'm by myself. Been listening to my downloaded music this morning, which helps a lot. Snapping pictures along the way.

    Two young women in their 20s who have met previously on the Camino joined again to share lunch. I overheard one say to the other that she is walking very slowly, "like a grandma".

    I found a blister this morning. Left foot, just under my big toe. Put mole tape over it.

    We are not walking tomorrow, so we'll be two nights at the next accommodation. I'm looking forward to the rest.
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  • Os Lambrons, Padron

    March 30, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    I walked through rain, mud and more mud, a carnival, and hail and into the country, goats running wild, way off the Camino... guided by Google. I had no idea if I was going to the right place or not. I was ahead of the group because i didn't get the memo on the stopping point. One minute there was hail and then 5 minutes later the sun came out, just as I was walking into the place. Os Lambrons.

    I walked around looking for signs of life and found a woman in the back room in a courtyard. She confirmed that I was indeed at the right location. I'm here, almost 13 miles today.

    Everyone else arrived. We settled, showered, had wine, and met for dinner. Very nice evening. Early to bed at 2104. Tonight is daylight savings time for Spain, so we lose an hour tonight. Dejavu. Twice in one month. Who knew they had daylight savings time over here.

    Tomorrow is a rest day. Breakfast at 10, so we'll get good rest tonight. A few of us are mending foot injuries. I'm doing ok. The one blister... but have not done a thorough assessment yet.

    It was a big day, a hard day. But we're here and only one more day to walk... on Monday.

    Here's a good one...
    https://youtu.be/s3eLJdb2ZN4?si=ISCY6ZpybfJ23rYj
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  • Rejuvenation

    March 31, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    This Easter is a day of rejuvenation and rebirth, leaving the old behind and looking ahead. Lisa and Dani have planned some special things for us today, including meditation, stretching, a release and burning ceremony, Reiki, and some Cuban African dancing. No walking, thank God!

    I'm feeling numb mostly, peaceful, and comfortably numb. I've spent the majority of my life in fight or fight mode, so maybe there's a bit of shock state. So much striving... this is what I'm leaving behind.

    Today, we slept in, had coffee and breakfast downstairs. I took a spin around the property, and we had morning meditation.

    Half of our group took a taxi into Padron for Easter mass, and the other half remained behind. I stayed behind, had hot tea and and stretched my achy body. We drew seer cards. There is a nice deep bathtub here, so I took a hot bath. I lay here now resting, taking in the sound of the birds, meditative music, and the gentle rain.

    The birds and plants are happy as the sun and rain take their turns on stage. And lunch is waiting for us.
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