• This Bicycle refuses to go to Porto!

    11. Mai 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    What a crazy day again!
    Besides all the ice cold wind and rain showers, 19km before Porto, the second thing I feared most happened, a puncture in my rear tyre!
    And I dont have a repair kit nor air pump!
    I cried in despair asking my fate why this is happening to me now, when Porto is only a few hours away?
    So, what do you do? Push, 5 km's!
    5 kms looking for a shop that might help. (But then I am in the country where you only have a bicycle Shop every 100km's).
    Then I THOUGHT my angels had come to help, when a shop for proffessional garden equipment apeared that actually had cycle tubes!
    The owner insisted that his mechanic do the job and I wait in the shop, and I thought "how kind of them".
    5 Km later a loud bang!
    The valve had torn off because the tube was not installed properly.
    This time I screamed!
    And once again I am standing miles from nowhere, 10 kms to Porto, it is getting dark, I am exhausted and freezing and simply want to get to a warm shelter.
    PLEASE!
    To make it worse, the tube and tyre were so messed up now that I could no longer roll the bike.
    So what do you do? Carry!
    So I carried bike and all its baggage to the next café asking myself "what is my spirit trying to tell me?"
    I asked the lady of the café "do you want a bicycle?"
    She gleamed! And I knew the answer to my problem.
    Everything was transfered back to my rucksack, I handed over bike, bags and all to a gleaming café owner 😃 and went my way!
    "May the road rise up to meet me"
    As I walked I wondered if I should change the blog name to "trials and tribulations of a wanderer".
    Weiterlesen

  • A gloomy Hostel, and rain all night

    10. Mai 2021 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    After my accident I hobbled on to arrive just before Dark in Mealhada at a hostel that more deserved the name "Den".
    I had got the last bed in a dormitory with 20 beds and a mixture of workers and pilgrims.
    In this gloomy, moist building, one small weak lamp lit the space and one tiny window supplied the air The showers were such that one didn't want to enter barefoot.
    All night long snoring filled this stuffy, moist space without air!
    What a night!
    This morning I discovered that there was also a modern part to this complex that a group of 30 Pilgrims had taken in one block.
    While their luggage was loaded into two large vans, they gathered in a large circle to pray, going three times through a whole rosary chain of Ave Maria's and prayers, a process that took nearly 45 minutes.

    The deep irony in the picture I took, was that the very representative of the technocratic future, "GOOGLE", stood right in the middle of these praying pilgrims in the form of a "Google Street view" vehicle that was busy filming the city streets of Portugal.
    Weiterlesen

  • Pilgrims everywhere, and a Wipe-out

    9. Mai 2021 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    The 13th of May is the anniversary of the apparition of Maria in Fatima and pilgrims from all over Portugal are heading to Fatima. On my route yesterday and today I have met several hundred. Joyful groups who have been walking for days, partially without luggage and accompanied by vehicles, others with rucksacks. All colours, ages and ethnicities.
    WOW! What a movement, what faith!

    As I was navigating down one of these wet sandy paths later this afternoon what I feared most, happened. I WIPED OUT!
    My front wheel had slipped sideways off a rut and my bike looped sideways as I flew through the air. With bloody legs and bruises all over but thank god no further damage.
    I shook myself, only to discover that the half liter milk I had bought earlier had burst inside my bag distributing itself between my equipment and clothes.
    Wet, and covered in mud, I screamed my frustration!
    One of those moments where one asks:
    "what the FUCK am I doing here?"
    Weiterlesen

  • Raining in buckets, doesn't describe it

    9. Mai 2021 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    This morning it rained like I have never seen before. While the others left early, I decided to use the beautiful hostel and its Internet to do some phone calls and wait till the downpour was over.
    Within seconds all paths were flooded and had become an insurpassible mudbath which I was then allowed to experience two hours later when I left. Besides being a mess it was seriously dangerous as paths were washed out, water was everywhere and I had to concentrate totally to not wipe out with this city bike.
    After 5 hours of riding like this the next thunderstorm started and I jumped into the next café, and who do I see sitting there, Stefania, Darius and the girl from Belgium. we howled with laughter at this unexpected meeting.
    I then continued to Coimbra while they made a detour via Decatlon to replace damaged equipment.
    Weiterlesen

  • Victor from Sintra

    8. Mai 2021 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    This afternoon while checking my route at a crossing, Victor appeared next to me asking in perfect english whether I'm on the camino? We ended up chatting for half an hour. Victor is history professor at Sintra University and was visiting his mother in the region he was born. An incredible discussion ensued about covid as a curtain to cover up what is really going on in the world, the "Great reset". His knowledge about what is going on simultaneously in different countries of the world was incredible. In summary authoritarianism is back, religion is dying and being replaced by a technocratic world without values and human empathy. I was deeply impressed by the complexity of his thoughts and explanation and it keped my mind busy as I rode on.Weiterlesen

  • In total FLOW with me and my surrounding

    8. Mai 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    WOW!
    What a morning!
    I've been cycling on the most beautiful mountain bike tracks, navigating rocks and gullies and have been in total FLOW for hours! That is the most incredible feeling! At peace with oneself, and nature, oblivious to everything going on around and nothing seems an effort.
    Just FLOW!
    At the same time I notice the difference to walking. I am far more concentrated on the path, no time for meditation, and everything passes faster.
    And yet it has a beauty of its own.
    Weiterlesen

  • A messed up ankle, the end of walking?

    7. Mai 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Last night I was awake all night with intensive pain in my ankles which have swollen up to such an extent that I can no longer walk. The day yesterday was simply too much!
    It became clear that this was the end of my walking, at least for a while.
    For me to admit this is extremely difficult but my body is simply saying NO !
    However I want to continue, so I have decided to try and reant a bicycle all morning, without success. so I have decided to buy one and set off by taxi to Decathlon in Leira.
    As I sat in the taxi, I was very sad with a deep feeling of having failed. It is not me to give up.
    I have now bought a bike with bags for under 200 euros and will now cycle back to the Camino and continue my route.
    A new camino waits.
    "Bon Camino!"
    Weiterlesen

  • Fatima, the Lourdes of Portugal

    6. Mai 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    I ended up walking around the whole town looking for a gas cannister and was able to get a good overview. The whole town revolves around the "legend of Fatima". There is not a shop that is not selling "objects of the Catholic faith". It is incredible!
    This made me want to understand the legend.
    On 13th May 1917, three shepherd children, cousins, led by the 13 year old Lucia Santos, reported that Maria had appeared to them (and continued to do this each month for 6 months), revealing 3 "secrets" to them. In short:
    1) The children should do penance every day to save sinners in the world and regularly say their rosary, (all children had relatives fighting in WW1 at the time, and this was the time where communism was growing in Portugal and Spain).
    2) Then Maria explained that war is punishment for sin and a lack of pious life, and that the rising atheist communist movement in Europe and in particular Russia would cause unrest in the world until the communists were brought back into the faith.
    3) the third "secret" was written down by the then nearly 50 year old Lucia as late as 1944 in a letter only to be opened in 1960 and talks about the risk of the church falling appart.
    Based on all this a whole city with gigantic monuments has been built, and thousands of pilgrims flock to Fatima each year.
    I am very critical of all this, as I was during my last Camino through Spain and look upon it as a study of how to influence masses which the Catholic has done incredibly well over the centuries. Whether it was the creation of the Image of St James whose body was transported from Jerusalem to Santiago, to later be discovered by a shepherd in a field and led to the creation of Santiago di Compostella itself, or later, the image of St James entering the battle of Oviedo, where King Alfonso 2 was just loosing against the islamic moors, and galloped through Moor ranks cutting off their heads. "St James the moor slayer" was then carried throughout the whole Christian world motivating people to join the army of King alfonso.
    The delicate part is however that modern age historians discovered that there was never a "battle of Oviedo"!!!!!!
    In a book I am reading "psychology of the masses" by "Gustav le bon" written at the end of the 18th century, he says: to influence the masses you need above all "strong images/ pictures" that carry the emotion. Then you need strong forceful statements. These statements are never explained or proven and any criticism of these is thrown back and side-lined.
    Now, doesn't this remind me of the whole covid discussion? The pictures from Bergamo were used again and again around the world. Statements are made and never proven. And alter opinions are viciously side-lined.
    Finally, look at this poster which I photographed on a bus stop yesterday:
    It shows a man with the "symbol" of covid (breathing apparatus) in hospital.
    The caption reads:
    "Two meters of distance could have prevented this"
    "Don't let the VIRUS" enter!"
    No proof! Just tough statement and a shocking picture.
    That is pure manipulation!
    Weiterlesen

  • And then a whirlstorm hit me!

    6. Mai 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Just as I entered the path this morning, two Pilgrims appeared at my side. It was Darius Malek-Madanie from Iran who is, hold tight, 70 years old and Stefanie Donati from northern Italy!
    They hit me like a whirlstorm, ripping me out of my semi depressed Lethargy. It was not possible otherwise, because they were talking, singing and laughing all the way. All of this happened at a walking speed like I have never seen before. They are regularly doing 40 km days while I am at 20 to 25km on average.
    Walking and talking was so much fun. While I was able to keep up with them, it was clearly not doing me good and overstraining my system which is also carrying quite a lot more weight due to food and tent.
    Some time after lunch I gave up trying to keep up at reverted back to my own speed. However already feeling the strain in my ankles. I feel I will not be able to continue with them.
    How sad 😥
    But we had a great dinner together this evening in Fatima.
    Weiterlesen

  • Battling with a donkey

    5. Mai 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    He who rests, rusts!
    Well that was definitely the case with my body today!
    It felt like trying to get a donkey to move.
    One moment I was pushing myself from behind while my body dug all extremities into the ground to stay put, then I was pulling my body shouting at it to stop buggering around and get moving, and then I was trying to motivate it by agreeing to stop at the next café for an ice cream. The Problem is that after the Café it doesn't want to move again. If my body had the choice, it would stay a few more days in Santarem drinking wine and eating pre-dinner Snacks.
    I must have taken 20 rests today!
    Such is life when Body and mind want different things.
    But I was a rewarded by a wonderful nature and a great campsite tonight!
    Weiterlesen

  • My first "zero day". Hostel in Santarem

    4. Mai 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    I have decided to give my body a break, a chance to recover by taking my first "Zero day". No walking today!
    Just sitting in cafe reading and writing!
    This morning I discovered my first open church. There was a service taking place with 15 persons, present. all over 70 years old. One of the congregation, a gentleman of I'm sure 80, was reading the mass out of the midst of the congregation, very unusual!
    In connection with my audiobook from yesterday, I reflected on how crucial "faith" is, in whatever form it may come, to give purpose to life.
    Here old people were coming together to pray and find some kind of hold, a fix point, in a world gone totally crazy.
    Spirituality, on the one side, is found in shared ritual between people, as was the case this morning, but it is also found in the solitude experienced in nature when walking great distances.
    On this topic I bumped into this film on ARTE TV
    One of the quotes of a 'first nation" Indian is wonderful:
    "Let the river run its course, it knows where to go. It will bring you to the source.
    Keep your energy for the turbulence of the rapids.

    https://youtu.be/YyaUzsp_aTE
    Weiterlesen

  • 30km of road, but deep in thoughts

    3. Mai 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Yesterday morning the ways of Carina and myself separated as she continued her route with her cousin who had come from Porto. It was a gruelling day of 30 kms on hard roads, no pavement and trucks nearly taking me with them when they passed. Sun and strong side Winds for most of the route did the rest.
    As I walked, I listened to a podcast "und dann?" on Audible which looked at all aspects around the topic of "Death", from the question of "when are you actually dead" , through "fear of death" , "the suffering around death", "hospice work", "assisted suicide" in switzerland, and the general fear of disappearing which has lead to "crionics" (freezing the brain or body parts to wake them up in 200 years, then research on the brain where one tries to digitalize all the information in the brain with the idea of being able to upload information and maybe no longer even needing a body, and finally, a very philosophical part on "what is human?" , "whether death is actually an essential part of being human, on Spirituality and faith.
    As I walked I reflected on my own end, on what COVID is doing with society at the moment, where society is heading, but also the opportunity for society to change itself radically.
    Weiterlesen

  • Yesterday rich landlords, today Mafia

    2. Mai 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Toward midday we came through a gypsy village living in terrible poverty in tin huts, half naked children on the streets and I felt as if I were in a village in Africa. I sunk into philosophical thought about this percecuted and hated race. I have experienced gypsies in all the countries of eastern europe and everywhere they were hated, chased, despised. And I asked myself how must a child feel growing up despised by all around, the eternal cycle of being an outcast and not believing in yourself, keeping together with those who are your own and then becoming just like your parents. The gypsies have been hated throughout the centuries and seem to carry a collective fate like the jewish race. I was stopped by one of them and immediately was on guard. In the end he just wanted to know if I am only walking to Fatima or to Compostella and was deeply impressed when I told him my destination. Just a normal guy. I felt ashamed for my predjudice!

    A Kilometer later we stopped for lunch in a small Restaurant. Yesterday I had observed rich Landlords, today it was what clearly looked like the mafia. An elegant man and his wife and a Bodyguard with a neck as wide as my thigh organising everything for him. Whenever the guy jumped up to take care of something, the chair came up with him, not because his butt was so big, but because of his thighs that were as wide as my Torso. A pure package of muscles.
    Weiterlesen

  • Soft bed and everything feels OK!

    2. Mai 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    Last night I stayed in a pension, in a tiny room but clean and warm. What a difference a decent bed makes!
    I let go and woke up this morning. Suddenly the knees and pain are bearable and the night and my whole energy feels different.
    Breakfast on the floor of my room and off we go at the agreed time, initially through wonderful flowering landscapes, all part of the protected Tejo delta that reaches far inland.
    Weiterlesen

  • Wonderful old style portuguese landlords

    1. Mai 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We have now entered Ribateo, an extremely rich agricultural region visible through polo clubs, extremely large houses and properties, as well a sudden increase in Mercedes and Porche cayenne everywhere.
    I have been walking on-and-off with Carina in the last two days which lightens the monotony of the landscapes and the roads. But we are both suffering terribly from these hard roads.
    Luckily today was only 17 kms and so we arrived around lunchtime and decided to give ourselves a pension today as well as a good lunch to go with it. Soft bed and a good night's sleep are desperately needed.
    In the restaurant it was amazing watching the many rich guests, in particular two gentlemen whose clothing (Jodpur riding trousers, riding boots, checkered shirt and vest) and body language simply oozed their wealth and high standing in society, this despite that their figures indicated that they hadn't been on a horses back for years!!!!!
    Weiterlesen

  • More tarmac, and fewer flowers, hard!

    1. Mai 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    I'm a bit exhausted and down! Asking myself what the hell I am doing here?
    Every night pain in my knees preventing me from sleeping and now a route becoming more and more monotonous with hard surfaces for walking. The last 4 days I would say over 70% of paths were tarred or rock hard grit roads which is killing my knees. On top, more and more surfaces between the trees are now ploughed thus destroying the incredible beauty of the flowers I had at the coast and making the landscapes very monotonous. The only way to survive is to switch off and become a robot in auto pilot. To help me I have been listening to audiobooks these last two days, at present a book on death, mourning and hospice work. I then sink into the book and my body walks on without my brain. My only connection to the world in that moment is the pain in my knees, hips and ankles reminding me that I am walking on surfaces that are too hard.Weiterlesen

  • Freezing night, and morning glory

    30. April 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Oh my god was it cold last night!
    Sooooo fucking cold!
    I dressed every piece of clothing I had including my fat down jacket. I slept in my silk liner and then under my down quilt. And was still freezing. I then put a plastic ground sheet I have over myself which was a fatal mistake. The moisture my body transpires during the night was so much that my quilt and jacket became wet, and as we have learned, goose down looses its insulating properties when wet!
    In the early hours the dew set in, on the outside of my tent and inside. So much so that it was dripping from the ceiling. Everything was wet!
    It seems that the topic of my Camino is water. Water stands for emotions.
    Mmmmm!
    What does that tell me?
    When I later tried to pack my tent it was so wet I had to first dry it with my travel towel. I wrung about half a Liter of water out of this towel.
    Incredible!
    But then I was rewarded by an incredible morning in all its glory! And the continuing tarred road didn't bother me at all. It was quiet, the birds were singing and I am alive and well!

    While I have been walking, again and again I see whole areas that have been ploughed between the Cork oaks thus destroying the incredible Varieté of flora I have enjoyed so much. I recently discovered that it is done to prevent the spread of fires. But instead of creating "fire breaks" which would be normal, they destroy the whole region, reducing variety but also food for birds, insects and the like. How insane!
    When I crossed the railway line shown in the second last photo I curiously looked at the small notice taped to the wall of the small house. It was a warning to the Population saying that a weed killer with "glyphophosphat" was going to be used on a particular date and time, and that in particular domestic animals should stay off the fields for 48 hours.
    Great!
    And what about after the 48 hours?
    What are we doing to our Planet?
    Weiterlesen

  • Casebres to Vendas Novas

    29. April 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Today I walked with Carina Sebastiao on her way to Fatima in a pilgrimage of thanks.
    Some time back her beloved father who worked in central Africa most of her life was flown back to Portugal with Kidney failure and passed into a long coma which didn't look at all good.
    He came through, and she is now doing a pilgrimage in thanks to Fatima, a holy place for the Portuguese .
    Carina told me a lot about life in Portugal, a.o. that the minimum income in Portugal is 600 euros and that many are at this level. A very basic apartment in a village (not a city) costs 400 euros. It is very difficult for people to survive. You either continue living with parents or are forced to live in a double income Situation. When one Person looses their Job, it becomes extremely critical. Where is our Society heading when working people are not able to survive?
    In Vendas Novas our paths separated as I carried on another 10 km on a horrible main road with passing Trucks blowing my hat off every 5 minutes.
    I ended up climbing over a barbed wird fence and promptly ripped my leg open to only find myself in what looks like a hunting area with lookouts and Tracks leading through the bush.
    That is where I am camping tonight. BASTA!
    and may I be protected from wild boars and straying Bullets.
    Weiterlesen

  • They say, don't wish too hard!

    28. April 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    So!
    I prayed to the spirit for the rain to stop, and for the wet sandy trails with brambles on the sides to stop. And the spirit fulfilled my wish. The rain stopped and the wet paths ended.
    What I got was a sunny day (even though the weather forecast said rain), and I got a straight, tarred road for 30 Kms. I am not joking, straight road for 30 kms!
    That is suicide for my knees, hips and ankles.
    Looks like one just can't win!
    Arriving in Casebres, a 15-house village, I met my first pilgrim, a Portuguese Lady from AlJesur on the way to Fatima who told me to go to the local administration and that they would give me a room.
    Well I have a room, it's the.meeting hall of the village. But at least it is dry, because the next thunder storm broke as I arrived. I was then given access to the toilets of the football field, a semi demolished building with a hole in the floor 😳
    But the cutest of all was when the gentleman returned again with toilet paper for me, packed in a envelope, so that I don't have to be ashamed when walking through the village. Isn't that sweet!
    Some people give all they can. ❤
    Weiterlesen

  • Everything wet!

    27. April 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    My clothes are wet, my shoes Squish with every step, the paths are flooded, the bushes are wet and my spirit is down. I am sick and tired of being wet, and I'm sick and tired of being alone! I want to talk, I want to cuddle,
    Being alone is starting to hit Home and is accentuated by permanent thunderstorms every hour.
    Usually I walk 4-5 km/hr. Today I am doing 1 km/hr. The paths are so flooded that have to take my shoes off to progress, or walk through the thorny bramble bushes on the side, ripping my skin and clothes. It is a nightmare.
    I decided to go to Alcacer do sal and stay there to dry out.
    Weiterlesen

  • Worst day yet!

    26. April 2021 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    My last days on the coast were really tough because I was virtually constantly walking in extremely soft sand sinking in with each step. I started to hate sand but all the other beautiful moments made up for it. Now for the last four days we have had thunder storms every half an hour, soaking me to the skin. Today I had really soft sand and constant rain. And when I say rain, I mean downpour! And then the soft sand soaked itself full and I sunk into bog with each step. And when the sand could no longer take up water every indentation became a lake and every rut a river.
    And there was no where for me to flee, no ruins, no shelters. So I walked on constantly reminding myself of the bhuddhist principle of "suffering is caused by fighting against whatever is bothering you. I was only marginaly successful.
    The problem is that walking for days in wet socks and shoes has destroyed the soles of my feet. it feels as ifthe skin is coming loose. If that is the case tomorrow, I have a real problem.
    Coming into a small village this evening, I discovered a public toilet (locked because of corona) with a covered area in front. That is where I am sleeping tonight.
    Weiterlesen

  • What a unique birthday

    25. April 2021 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Today is my birthday. And It is not raining yet. (Will come this afternoon though).
    I started the day by giving myself a present, three Jelly snakes in memory of good old times with my daughters when they would bring me such snakes from the kiosk. This used to be heaven on earth for me 😃
    As I marched on weather got worse and worse with thunder all around. And then it broke! In buckets. Within seconds I was soaked and the rest of the day was rain.
    When I got to Grandola I met a young man in an alley who looked as if he could speak English. It was Markus Müller a well traveled international who two years ago decided that Germany is going to Hit the wall, sold everything to build a house in Portugal
    Markus invited me in for a beer and then, unknowingly, turned my birthday into a most memorable event by cooking a wonderful dinner. And for the first time in this trip I was able to have a real conversations with someone accompanied by wonderful wine, then Sake, and then to literally finish us off, half a bottle of Medronio, a killer Schnaps from Portugal.
    God bless you Markus. ❤
    Weiterlesen

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