• Michael Spies

The Spirit flies again

From the southern tip of Portugal to Santiago. Lue lisää
  • And then a whirlstorm hit me!

    6. toukokuuta 2021, Portugali ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Just as I entered the path this morning, two Pilgrims appeared at my side. It was Darius Malek-Madanie from Iran who is, hold tight, 70 years old and Stefanie Donati from northern Italy!
    They hit me like a whirlstorm, ripping me out of my semi depressed Lethargy. It was not possible otherwise, because they were talking, singing and laughing all the way. All of this happened at a walking speed like I have never seen before. They are regularly doing 40 km days while I am at 20 to 25km on average.
    Walking and talking was so much fun. While I was able to keep up with them, it was clearly not doing me good and overstraining my system which is also carrying quite a lot more weight due to food and tent.
    Some time after lunch I gave up trying to keep up at reverted back to my own speed. However already feeling the strain in my ankles. I feel I will not be able to continue with them.
    How sad 😥
    But we had a great dinner together this evening in Fatima.
    Lue lisää

  • Fatima, the Lourdes of Portugal

    6. toukokuuta 2021, Portugali ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    I ended up walking around the whole town looking for a gas cannister and was able to get a good overview. The whole town revolves around the "legend of Fatima". There is not a shop that is not selling "objects of the Catholic faith". It is incredible!
    This made me want to understand the legend.
    On 13th May 1917, three shepherd children, cousins, led by the 13 year old Lucia Santos, reported that Maria had appeared to them (and continued to do this each month for 6 months), revealing 3 "secrets" to them. In short:
    1) The children should do penance every day to save sinners in the world and regularly say their rosary, (all children had relatives fighting in WW1 at the time, and this was the time where communism was growing in Portugal and Spain).
    2) Then Maria explained that war is punishment for sin and a lack of pious life, and that the rising atheist communist movement in Europe and in particular Russia would cause unrest in the world until the communists were brought back into the faith.
    3) the third "secret" was written down by the then nearly 50 year old Lucia as late as 1944 in a letter only to be opened in 1960 and talks about the risk of the church falling appart.
    Based on all this a whole city with gigantic monuments has been built, and thousands of pilgrims flock to Fatima each year.
    I am very critical of all this, as I was during my last Camino through Spain and look upon it as a study of how to influence masses which the Catholic has done incredibly well over the centuries. Whether it was the creation of the Image of St James whose body was transported from Jerusalem to Santiago, to later be discovered by a shepherd in a field and led to the creation of Santiago di Compostella itself, or later, the image of St James entering the battle of Oviedo, where King Alfonso 2 was just loosing against the islamic moors, and galloped through Moor ranks cutting off their heads. "St James the moor slayer" was then carried throughout the whole Christian world motivating people to join the army of King alfonso.
    The delicate part is however that modern age historians discovered that there was never a "battle of Oviedo"!!!!!!
    In a book I am reading "psychology of the masses" by "Gustav le bon" written at the end of the 18th century, he says: to influence the masses you need above all "strong images/ pictures" that carry the emotion. Then you need strong forceful statements. These statements are never explained or proven and any criticism of these is thrown back and side-lined.
    Now, doesn't this remind me of the whole covid discussion? The pictures from Bergamo were used again and again around the world. Statements are made and never proven. And alter opinions are viciously side-lined.
    Finally, look at this poster which I photographed on a bus stop yesterday:
    It shows a man with the "symbol" of covid (breathing apparatus) in hospital.
    The caption reads:
    "Two meters of distance could have prevented this"
    "Don't let the VIRUS" enter!"
    No proof! Just tough statement and a shocking picture.
    That is pure manipulation!
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  • A messed up ankle, the end of walking?

    7. toukokuuta 2021, Portugali ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Last night I was awake all night with intensive pain in my ankles which have swollen up to such an extent that I can no longer walk. The day yesterday was simply too much!
    It became clear that this was the end of my walking, at least for a while.
    For me to admit this is extremely difficult but my body is simply saying NO !
    However I want to continue, so I have decided to try and reant a bicycle all morning, without success. so I have decided to buy one and set off by taxi to Decathlon in Leira.
    As I sat in the taxi, I was very sad with a deep feeling of having failed. It is not me to give up.
    I have now bought a bike with bags for under 200 euros and will now cycle back to the Camino and continue my route.
    A new camino waits.
    "Bon Camino!"
    Lue lisää

  • The flexible will survive!

    7. toukokuuta 2021, Portugali ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    So off I went on a bicycle, trying to catch my two friends, and found them in Ribiera do Farrio. So fun together! But our paths will part now because we have very different speeds.
    Bad weather coming for the next days. Mmmm! Next challenge. I'm on a "bare bones" bike, i.e. no mud guards, so this will become a muddy affair.
    So, off we go!
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  • In total FLOW with me and my surrounding

    8. toukokuuta 2021, Portugali ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    WOW!
    What a morning!
    I've been cycling on the most beautiful mountain bike tracks, navigating rocks and gullies and have been in total FLOW for hours! That is the most incredible feeling! At peace with oneself, and nature, oblivious to everything going on around and nothing seems an effort.
    Just FLOW!
    At the same time I notice the difference to walking. I am far more concentrated on the path, no time for meditation, and everything passes faster.
    And yet it has a beauty of its own.
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  • Victor from Sintra

    8. toukokuuta 2021, Portugali ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    This afternoon while checking my route at a crossing, Victor appeared next to me asking in perfect english whether I'm on the camino? We ended up chatting for half an hour. Victor is history professor at Sintra University and was visiting his mother in the region he was born. An incredible discussion ensued about covid as a curtain to cover up what is really going on in the world, the "Great reset". His knowledge about what is going on simultaneously in different countries of the world was incredible. In summary authoritarianism is back, religion is dying and being replaced by a technocratic world without values and human empathy. I was deeply impressed by the complexity of his thoughts and explanation and it keped my mind busy as I rode on.Lue lisää

  • Raining in buckets, doesn't describe it

    9. toukokuuta 2021, Portugali ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    This morning it rained like I have never seen before. While the others left early, I decided to use the beautiful hostel and its Internet to do some phone calls and wait till the downpour was over.
    Within seconds all paths were flooded and had become an insurpassible mudbath which I was then allowed to experience two hours later when I left. Besides being a mess it was seriously dangerous as paths were washed out, water was everywhere and I had to concentrate totally to not wipe out with this city bike.
    After 5 hours of riding like this the next thunderstorm started and I jumped into the next café, and who do I see sitting there, Stefania, Darius and the girl from Belgium. we howled with laughter at this unexpected meeting.
    I then continued to Coimbra while they made a detour via Decatlon to replace damaged equipment.
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  • Pilgrims everywhere, and a Wipe-out

    9. toukokuuta 2021, Portugali ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    The 13th of May is the anniversary of the apparition of Maria in Fatima and pilgrims from all over Portugal are heading to Fatima. On my route yesterday and today I have met several hundred. Joyful groups who have been walking for days, partially without luggage and accompanied by vehicles, others with rucksacks. All colours, ages and ethnicities.
    WOW! What a movement, what faith!

    As I was navigating down one of these wet sandy paths later this afternoon what I feared most, happened. I WIPED OUT!
    My front wheel had slipped sideways off a rut and my bike looped sideways as I flew through the air. With bloody legs and bruises all over but thank god no further damage.
    I shook myself, only to discover that the half liter milk I had bought earlier had burst inside my bag distributing itself between my equipment and clothes.
    Wet, and covered in mud, I screamed my frustration!
    One of those moments where one asks:
    "what the FUCK am I doing here?"
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  • A gloomy Hostel, and rain all night

    10. toukokuuta 2021, Portugali ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    After my accident I hobbled on to arrive just before Dark in Mealhada at a hostel that more deserved the name "Den".
    I had got the last bed in a dormitory with 20 beds and a mixture of workers and pilgrims.
    In this gloomy, moist building, one small weak lamp lit the space and one tiny window supplied the air The showers were such that one didn't want to enter barefoot.
    All night long snoring filled this stuffy, moist space without air!
    What a night!
    This morning I discovered that there was also a modern part to this complex that a group of 30 Pilgrims had taken in one block.
    While their luggage was loaded into two large vans, they gathered in a large circle to pray, going three times through a whole rosary chain of Ave Maria's and prayers, a process that took nearly 45 minutes.

    The deep irony in the picture I took, was that the very representative of the technocratic future, "GOOGLE", stood right in the middle of these praying pilgrims in the form of a "Google Street view" vehicle that was busy filming the city streets of Portugal.
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  • This Bicycle refuses to go to Porto!

    11. toukokuuta 2021, Portugali ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    What a crazy day again!
    Besides all the ice cold wind and rain showers, 19km before Porto, the second thing I feared most happened, a puncture in my rear tyre!
    And I dont have a repair kit nor air pump!
    I cried in despair asking my fate why this is happening to me now, when Porto is only a few hours away?
    So, what do you do? Push, 5 km's!
    5 kms looking for a shop that might help. (But then I am in the country where you only have a bicycle Shop every 100km's).
    Then I THOUGHT my angels had come to help, when a shop for proffessional garden equipment apeared that actually had cycle tubes!
    The owner insisted that his mechanic do the job and I wait in the shop, and I thought "how kind of them".
    5 Km later a loud bang!
    The valve had torn off because the tube was not installed properly.
    This time I screamed!
    And once again I am standing miles from nowhere, 10 kms to Porto, it is getting dark, I am exhausted and freezing and simply want to get to a warm shelter.
    PLEASE!
    To make it worse, the tube and tyre were so messed up now that I could no longer roll the bike.
    So what do you do? Carry!
    So I carried bike and all its baggage to the next café asking myself "what is my spirit trying to tell me?"
    I asked the lady of the café "do you want a bicycle?"
    She gleamed! And I knew the answer to my problem.
    Everything was transfered back to my rucksack, I handed over bike, bags and all to a gleaming café owner 😃 and went my way!
    "May the road rise up to meet me"
    As I walked I wondered if I should change the blog name to "trials and tribulations of a wanderer".
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  • Finally Porto in all its beauty

    12. toukokuuta 2021, Portugali ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    So, after 703 kms and 39 days, here I am finally in Porto, this wonderful city so full of history, old dilapidated colourful buildings and hills. Spent the day strolling around, sitting in cafes, and resting in parks. My legs and joints are thanking me and getting ready for the final 10 days to Santiago di compostela.
    As I walk through portugal I see the huge role of the church with pious images on houses and roads named after cardinals and Priests. A film I saw recently tells the story of Portugal's grand days in the 14th century where they ruled the sea with their fast caravelle ships and had a Monopoly on the in-human slave trade using the island of Santiago (of all names) in the Cabo Verde archipelago as a trading center for slaves. This island was used until the end of the seventies for slaves and later for political prisoners of the Salazar dictatorship.
    As I sat in the chapel of Igreja dos Clérigos looking at the piety of this place built by the rich of the country in the 16th century I tried to imagine these people in their faith while slaves worked all around them under terrible conditions.
    In some way this has not changed. Just two days ago a scandal unraveled uncovering thousands of foreigners living under inhuman conditions (nearly like slaves) working the greenhouses of Odemira to produce cheapest fruit and vegetables for Northern Europe.
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  • A real Pilgrims hostel, Camino feeling!

    13. toukokuuta 2021, Portugali ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Yesterday I decided to change to the main pilgrim hostel of Porto. It was a good decision.
    Here I met Miguel who founded the hostel several years ago when he lost his job working in sales. This is his Life project, his calling, out of the heart ❤
    A dedicated wonderful man.
    But I also finally met some pilgrims! Dietmar and Ruth from a commune in Alentejo called "Cento e Oito" (108) which is only three kms from "Tamera" that I have been wanting to visit for so long. Both lived in Tamera for many years and found it becomming too rigid and big. Ruth was then then a founding member of smaller commune nearby and takes care of landscaping and permaculture.
    A wonderful encounter ❤
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  • And suddenly I became a grandfather!

    14. toukokuuta 2021, Portugali ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    What absolute joy! ❤
    Last night Nora gave birth to a little boy, and all are healthy! 🌞
    This is an absolute blessing after the tragic death of her first child.
    This beautiful bush witnessed my joy when the news arrived. May its many beautiful flowers accompany Gregor through his Life and may I become a wonderful grandfather ❤ 🌟
    God bless you ❤

    Throughout this Camino I've been asking why I am walking this Camino,
    Now I know.
    It is for Gregor, all this pain, frustration but above all, joy.
    And the Song that accompanied me through the Camino in 2018 resurfaces:

    May the road rise up to meet you
    May the Wind be at your back
    May the sun shine warm upon your face
    May the rain fall softly on your feet
    And until we meet again
    Will you keep safe in the gentle loving arms of god

    Last week I was listening to a podcast about death.
    We move from this plain into another when we die,
    and Gregor moves from the other plain into this.
    Both die, and both are born!
    That is the miracle of the universe

    I carry you in my heart. ❤

    Here is the song:
    https://open.spotify.com/track/0iokixH3MiP5Xv9l…
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  • Is this the moment where I exit my life?

    14. toukokuuta 2021, Portugali ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    As I walked along kilometers of highly dangerous road today, (the worst so far), I mused at how Ironic it would be if today were the day for me to EXIT my life.
    Gregor enters, I EXIT.
    The traffic was so intense and there were so many trucks, that at some stage I stopped thinking, fixed my view on the road ahead and walked, trusting in my angel as trucks drove centimeters past my arm.

    Fate obviously has something else in store for me, because I arrived safely at the "Mostiero de Vairao", an ancient pilgrims hostel in a monastery that is hundred of years old.
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  • Today is one of those days!

    15. toukokuuta 2021, Portugali ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Today is one of those days where everything seems to nerve me!
    It's been raining all day!
    I started off in good spirits, wearing my Poncho and ready to confront this day. After two hours of walking I realised I was just as wet under the poncho from perspiration as my poncho was on the outside. There is no more terrible feeling than a wet body sticking to the inside of a poncho. So I decided fuck-it, and took the poncho off. Now I am really soaked!.
    I have never hated rain more than today!

    And then a truck drove by, through the water puddle and a wave of water hit me.
    I have never hated trucks more than today!
    But the cars are no better!

    Then the path turned off onto a forest path, all dug up by agricultural vehicles and a full night of rain. With each foot step I sink-in 4 cms into fine mud. Sliding around!
    I have never hated mud more than today!

    And then there is my body that is sick-and-tired of this rain and mud and just wants to go home with a hot tea cuddling up on the sofa
    And then my Mind gets all up-tight with my body! Telling it to "shift weight".
    And then to make matters worse my ultra clever spirit enters the discussion and reminds me of the Buddist principle of "ACCEPTANCE" , adding that
    "SUFFERING IS CAUSED BY RESISTANCE"
    And then I get even more passed-off!
    Pissed off with me, pissed off with my body, passed off with the mud, pissed off with trucks, pissed off with agricultural equipment, simply passed off with everything!
    Oh my god, what a day!
    Today is just one of those days!
    And I am simply looking forward to the 27 kms to be passed,
    finished,
    erledigt!
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  • A very different day, today!

    16. toukokuuta 2021, Portugali ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    After my catastrophic morning yesterday, as I walked after lunch, I listened to an audiobook "Penguin Bloom" about an adventurous Australian family whose life changes dramatically when Cameron Bloom, the mother, sudenly becomes paraplegic. In the book Cameron describe her self-destructive anger at the circumstances she is suddenly in, how she hates herself and all around her. Then a small Magpie bird flutters into the family's life and changes everything. A Deeply moving story!
    As I walked, I reflected on my anger of the morning and recognised myself in her story. I wondered how it must be when you know that whatever you do and no matter how much time passes, you are never going to have your torso and legs back again. At least I can close the day and start with a new one 12 hours later.
    In the evening Stefania (Miss 45 km/day) suddenly appeared in my hostel, which somehow didn't astound me at all. Darius her Iranian companion had returned to Switzerland, and bouncy and joyful as she is, she had just completed a 40km day and looked as if she had just done 5kms. We reflected on my anger that morning. She couldn't understand me, she said she loves walking in the rain, alone, at her pace, with herself. And I realized, there is no absolute truth only our each subjective perception of of what we are experiencing. Our perception creates our reality and we decide on how we want to see something.
    Tina, a friend of mine in Munich, writes a "thankfulness" diary and exchanges it each day with a good friend of her's. She does this to focus her energy on what is good in her life. I have always deeply admired her for this attitude.

    Yes, Today is a very different day! ❤
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  • Casa da Fernanda

    16. toukokuuta 2021, Portugali ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    This is Casa da Fernanda a small oasus on this part of the camino. Fernanda used to work at the Post office when she decided together with her wonderful husband Jacinto to build a wooden house at the edge of their property to house pilgrims. Since then she has become a legend welcoming total strangers with a huge heart, day-by-day, year-by-year.
    I arrived quite early and promptly had coffee and cake served. We sat in the garden talking about fear and what it does to people, about pilgrims with one leg who stayed here and about her 5 dogs, 4 cats, 15 chickens, turkey and the two pigs who unfortunately died because they got too fat. My animals are my friends, I don't eat them she said!
    In the evening they tabled up a dinner for Kings where I thought the starters were the full dinner, and then suddenly the real thing was served accompanied by their own wine, Porto, and finally a grappa that just blew me away. All of this accompanied by 7 people all talking at the same time in numerous languages.
    People like Fernanda and Jacinto are incredible. Standing fully in life with both legs and dedicating them selves to helping others.
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  • Up up and away, in my beautiful balloon!

    17. toukokuuta 2021, Portugali ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Unfortunately no beautiful ballon today but a lot of up up and away, 400 meters of it 😃
    But along wonderful alleys and a mountain stream! And now I'm up in the mountains in a witches den called "La Bruja", a beautifully renovated 400 year old house and B&B. Tonight, for a change, elegant lodging at an elegant price 🙂Lue lisää

  • Oh that body just don't wanna move today

    18. toukokuuta 2021, Portugali ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    It is amazing how the readinass of my body to walk long distances changes from day to day. Today it just didn't feel like walking, suggesting to me at every opportunity that it was time to have a break.
    And so when after about 10 km a man standing in his beautiful garden asked me where I came from and to where I am going and then invited me in for coffee, my body cheered while my inner voice commented that we had barely done 10km, had already had several breaks and actually want to enter into Spain today.!
    A third voice then joined saying "come on, you only live once and life is calling you to enter in dialogue with this guy. And besides, it is unimportant whether you get to Spain today".
    Well, the conversation lasted into the night, and it turned out that this was actually a hostel, and what a beautiful one at that!
    Diego, a photo journalist from Porto who has travelled the world from Africa to India, and Julia from Cologne, bought this hostel from a canadian couple in 2019 because they wanted to live a self sustained life and have their two small kids grow up in nature. On 4 ha they grow a wide variety of vegetables and fruit in Permaculture for which Diego gives courses. Happy chickens run around in between and ducks will soon be eating the snails. What a delicious salad I got that evening!
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  • The end of portuguese eucalyptus forests

    18. toukokuuta 2021, Portugali ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    As soon as I crossed the border today, beautiful oak forests accompanied me and the end of government promoted monoculture eucalyptus. Diego explained last night that a Monopolistic wood company in combination with government promotion of Eucalyptus have over 20 years totally changed the Portuguese landscape and are also the reason for the terrible fires every year as eucalyptus burns like petrol. But the population woke up when two years ago when 150 people died when a whole village was trapped by fires all around.
    In the same fire, one Quinta, belonging to a dutch lady who planted chestnuts, oaks and other trees in a mixed forest 50 years ago was not burnt down. These photographs showed the effect of mixed vegetation in a dramatic way and have triggered the discussion on eucalyptus monoculture.
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  • The countdown runs, 100km mark!

    19. toukokuuta 2021, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    This afternoon I crossed the 100 km mark. Now the countdown to Santiago begins!
    But a far deeper impression was when I came upon a racing track where 7 year old boys were being trained by a coach in motor cycle racing while their parents stood behind a fence cheering on. These kids wer driving at about 60kmh. Totally fearless, and I thought, yes, here the next generation of men is being trained to not feel their feelings and to be cut off from their emotions!
    One boy was constantly being fetched out by the coach and chided because he was hesitating in the curves and not accelerating aggressively enough after the curves.
    My heart bled for this boy. ❤
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