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Buen Camino!
  • Allison Allen
  • Allison Allen

Buen Camino!

Walking the Camino Frances with my niece Morgan. Read more
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  • Allison AllenBuen Camino!Traveler
    2
    42

    Sights, sounds, situations

    October 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    So, the sights have started to change for real! Today was a beautiful walk as we approached the mountains under skies that cleared over the course of the morning. No roadside walking today - so nice. And the climb was mostly gentle and in the cooler air felt really good.

    Sounds. I’ve been thinking about the sounds of the Camino. Almost every morning as I wake up, somewhere nearby a rooster is crowing. I like that.
    Sleeping in albergues you are surrounded by the sounds of other people. As 10:00 arrives and lights go off it gets quiet, but always there is breathing, snoring, rustling, shuffling. I find it all oddly comfortable and comforting, all that humanity around me. I think this way of sleeping in groups is very old. It reminds me we are primates, social creatures.
    Languages! All the time in cafes and albergues, or along the trail conversations are happening in at least a dozen languages. People find ways to communicate, we laugh a lot, smile, shrug.

    Situations! Every day follows a pattern, so if a situation is challenging one day, you know that, for better or worse you will have many opportunities to try it again ahead of you. It pushes for growth and builds confidence, and resilience.

    Tomorrow morning we climb to the Cruz de ferro, the Iron Cross, where by tradition you leave a stone representing some burden you hope to be relieved of. Something to look forward to. But now, time to curl up amongst my tribe of the day and get some sleep…    Read more

  • Allison AllenBuen Camino!Traveler
    1

    Unburdening

    October 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    This morning Morgan and I got a fairly early start - it was dark and also foggy, very evocative as we climbed up toward the Cruz de ferro. What can I say? Just before we arrived there, something unexpectedly shifted, or, really, lifted in me. It was a great grace. The stone I carried has been on behalf of someone else, so I really was surprised, and I can only hope that person will experience something as healing as I believe I did today.

    The picture of the Cruz de ferro in daylight was taken by Ollie, who came along a little later than e we did. Thanks Ollie! You    Read more

  • Allison AllenBuen Camino!Traveler
    3

    Topsy turvy

    October 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    I think maybe I off loaded so much baggage yesterday that my balance is off, because today I fell - twice! No damage at all the first time except to the final shreds of my dignity. The second time I scraped my knee a bit. I’m grateful I did not actually hurt myself.

    Possibly the five hours of picking my way downhill on rocky, uneven terrain yesterday may have more to do with it. After the amazingly lovely first few hours it became one of the more grueling days on the Camino and my calves are still feeling it.

    Today was an easy walk though, and a pleasant one, much buoyed by learning that our friend David, of David and Ollie, was walking today after all. He looked quite shipwrecked last night and neither he nor I thought he would be continuing, at least today. I was sad! But 12 hours of sleep apparently worked it’s magic and here he is after all and we had a great conversation this evening about our experiences at the Cruz
    de ferro. Another happy moment today? Morgan and I had FRIED EGGS and toast for breakfast, with coffee and orange juice. We were So Happy with this taste of home! It’s the little things.

    I’ve included a photo taken on the way out of town of the huge Knights Templar castle, which I did not get to tour. It goes on my list of reasons I will be walking this route again.

    Tomorrow we will start climbing again toward another icon of the trip, O Cebreiro, though we will stop about 5 K short of that mountain top where the Camino was basically reborn. Then we will drop into Galicia, or “Green Spain.” Lots to look forward to!    Read more

  • Allison AllenBuen Camino!Traveler
    11

    La Faba

    October 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    Such a nice day! The standard stage would have been 5 K longer, and a long steep climb. We opted to stop partway up after a walk through beautiful scenery in intermittent showers and gusts of warm wind. We were often accompanied by the music of full rivers and the sound and smell of wind shaken autumn leaves.

    I walked the day alone, soaking up all the sensory goodness. Morgan caught up as I sat in front of a cafe watching other pilgrims come around the corner and we had lunch together waiting for a break in the rain before heading back out.

    Our albergue is a nice one, with a beautiful little church right on the grounds , and a statue of Santiago in his pilgrim garb. Further on in the village is Tito’s, where along with David and Ollie we had a very convivial evening meal. We did get rather soaked coming back to the albergue. We may be walking in rain for the rest of the camino.

    For tonight, though, we are warm and dry, listening to the rain fall and preparing to sleep. And for the record, I managed to keep upright all day today. Another good day on the Camino.    Read more

  • Allison AllenBuen Camino!Traveler
    2
    1131

    All over the map

    October 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Such a day! We drug our feet till 8:00 because it was so rainy, and finally set out s as daylight arrived. I was well ponchoed (is that a word?) and reconciled to a long walk through rain. After a climb I crossed into Galicia, Celtic Spain, and then entered O Cebreiro, where I visited the church where Fr. Elías Valiña Sampedro, who revived the Camino, lived and was buried. I was able to enter the church where he offered Mass and was buried. I need to read more about him!

    Then another looong downward climb. Morgan was ahead and I walked mostly with David and Ollie. I will miss them so much when we have to say goodbye! We got soaked, kept on, and then after lunch, voíla! No rain! A brisk wind stayed with us, and by the time we eased into Tricastela, we were quite dry. Amazing! Once it cleared off we were able to see some great vistas as we descended. A good day!

    Now it is raining again, but I’m warm and dry, perched on my top bunk listening to it come down. So cozy! Tomorrow a serious downpour is predicted. Two inches of rain!! We will swim to Sarria! We are so close to the end now, it’s hard to believe. I think I get happier every day, somehow. What will it be like to arrive in Santiago? I have no idea…    Read more

  • Allison AllenBuen Camino!Traveler
    2
    2

    Sarria

    October 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    Today we walked in a steady rain all day. It wasn’t cold, so not miserable. It was maybe our shortest walk of the Camino, and actually was pretty pleasant.

    Sarria is notable because to earn a Compostela you must walk a minimum of 100 kilometers, and people who want to do that minimal distance start in Sarria. Needless to say, despite all our sincere statements about not judging, we much more …weathered pilgrims tend to make comments for instance about how clean their shoes are, or how their ponchos still have pleats. Not judging though! Oh, no!

    What with the rain and keeping my head down, not a lot of photos today. I like the chicken, and i also had my first piece of Santiago torte at a stop today. The view of the church steeple is what I see out of my albergue window this evening.

    So now we have damp clothes draped everywhere, and newspaper stuffed in our very wet shoes. Tomorrow is another rainy day. In fact, spoiler alert, it looks as if it may rain every day until I leave. But, the walking goes well, and all the major hills and valleys are basically behind us, especially after tomorrow. In theory, the path will be crammed full of new arrivals tomorrow , but I’m thinking that what with the late fall temps and nonstop rain it may mostly be us stalwart long-haulers. I’ll let you know tomorrow.    Read more

  • Allison AllenBuen Camino!Traveler

    Portomarín

    October 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    So, I think this morning was the first time I woke up and genuinely wished I could just roll over and go back to sleep. It was dark, it was raining, and we had all barely dried out from the thorough dousing we took yesterday. But, pilgrims persist, and we all got up and headed out, into what turned out to be very light rain which then basically stopped by the time we finished breakfast.

    The walk turned out to be one of the most scenic thus far, reminding me often of the Irish countryside, full of giant trees and mossy rock walls and cows. Most of the day was cloudy and breezy but dry - so much better than predicted! At times the sun even broke through. Once finally tucked into the albergue it got colder and really poured. Sorry, slower pilgrims!

    In four days we will walk into Santiago. I have been re-reading the Letter of James, to better get into his spirit. It’s such a good, pragmatic letter, very suited to pilgrims in some ways, I think.

    As we get closer, a lot of conversations are about how we’ve been affected, or wondering what if anything will be different for each of us once we’re home, but it’s too soon, too close to really know. For now, even if my mind runs ahead my feet still have their job to do, and four days are four days. Time to get some sleep.    Read more

  • Allison AllenBuen Camino!Traveler

    Palas de Rei

    October 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Today I think we sort of snacked our way from cafe to village cafe; much good food was eaten and an herbal liqueur sampled. We mostly stayed dry until an absolute downpour shortly before the end of the day’s walk. I saw a super cute dog all kitted out in rain gear!

    Regarding the newbies who flood the Camino in Sarria, I’d say it’s noticeable, with quite a few unfamiliar faces, but not the hoard seen at other, more hospitable, less rainy times.

    Along the way today, which again was scenic, and included eucalyptus trees, we passed by an Iron Age castro, a stone village- photo and video below.

    Today the first person from our early cohort, who obviously set a much faster pace than we did, arrived in Santiago. Jun, you are a BEAST! So fast! We will be there three days from now.

    For now, though, I am nested in my bunk, full of delicious Italian food made by UK expats and starting to think about sleeping. And about phone charging strategies - often an issue in albergue.    Read more

  • Allison AllenBuen Camino!Traveler
    2

    So close now!

    October 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    I think I’m getting wimpier rather than stronger lately, or maybe it’s just that the bounce has been ground out of my trail shoes. Today was a very average length day but the last eight K seemed to take forever! The state of our shoes has become a frequent topic of conversation lately, even more common than describing the state of our feet.

    As Morgan and I were eating breakfast this morning a parade of men in blaze orange started pouring into the small bar. Hunting season! A familiar sight. Another sight at the end of the day? A rather fit young man skinny dipping in the very cold river by our albergue. I’ll just show pictures of us soaking our tired feet.

    Morgan pointed out earlier today that we were basically one Birkie away from Santiago. Ha!

    There are threats of turning tomorrow, our penultimate day of walking, into a bit of a pub crawl. We are excited to be close to the end while also dreading the goodbyes. Work and other realities are beginning to come to mind more, and making the day a sort of party has some appeal. We’ll see what actually happens.    Read more

  • Allison AllenBuen Camino!Traveler
    1

    Taking our time

    October 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    So, our penultimate day of walking happened! We took a leisurely approach and decided a modified pub crawl was actually a good idea at about a one shot every 5 K pace. We did get a little side eye from one server (see video). Maybe it was a bit early?

    We didn’t go too crazy and really just had a fun day. Everyone is trying to wrap their heads around what we’ve just done and what reentry is going to be like.

    One of the things I’ve enjoyed is the way a few people have given me the opportunity to function in my role as spiritual director. Those conversations have been such a privilege to take part in. It’s really been one of the most special parts of my camino, and it has me thinking a lot about how I might want to build on that on my next camino.

    Oh! Also, banner day! Today I finally encountered another woman wearing a maccabi skirt! We communed over our love of its functionality. It was nice to not be the only one for a change, although I have come to embrace my status as “the lady in the skirt.”    Read more

  • Allison AllenBuen Camino!Traveler
    2
    1Starting out in the rain!My beautiful little side chapel.6

    Completo!

    October 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    On the Camino, when an albergue is full and has no more available beds it puts up a sign that reads “completo.” My trip, my experience here on the Camino is now very nearly completo.
    Yesterday, along with Morgan, David, Ollie and a new young friend, Ihne, from Norway, I walked into Santiago. We walked through rain with clear patches as well. We walked at times alone, then pulling together, allowing plenty of space for all the needed conversations to happen amongst various pairs of us. I watched David and Ollie walk and talk together; it was so good to see. Morgan and I took time to revel in what we had done together as well.
    As we wound through the outer portions of Santiago toward the old town and the Cathedral the rain slowed and mostly stopped. We had glimpses of sun, even, as we took our final steps through a covered stone passage and down broad steps filled with the music of bagpipes. I LOVE bagpipes!

    We all funneled out into the great square in front of the towering grey stone Cathedral, laughing, gasping, many of us crying. We spotted others we knew and there were many, many hugs. Joseph was there, who we had not seen in days! He is a photographer and he generously took so many photos. Thank you, Joseph! This all went on for some time. We were so happy, so amazed, so…stunned to actually have arrived. Then group by group we peeled off, mostly heading to the office where we registered officially as having completed the pilgrimage, where each of us showed our hard-earned credentials and received our Compostela.

    That was yesterday, and I just was not ready to try to describe our arrival. I knew I needed to wait for today, and I’m glad I did. Yesterday in the square, I was as stunned, happy, and celebratory as anyone, but in typical fashion I was also dry eyed. Which was fine! Today though, after I toured through the cathedral, saw the crypt of St. James, did all the things, I discovered a small, very quiet side chapel designated for silence and prayer. I sat in that chapel, along with a small handful of others, gazing at a beautiful ciborium holding the Host, and it was there, unexpectedly, that my tears arrived in a flood, along with a profound awareness of being completely known. It was a great gift. What else can I even say?

    At the limit of my words, I will reach for those of a great Basque lover of the Camino, Antxon González Gabarain:

    “…you can give me torrential rain all the way down the Alto de Perdon, or a hurricane wind in my face all the way to Lubier. Give me 46 degrees in the shade in Merida, or a meter of frozen snow on Lepoeder Pass. Give me a line of bicyclists skidding ‘round the curves that climb Markina, and give me seven days straight without seeing a single waymark. Give me… give me the five most infuriating hospitaleros who ever existed, during five consecutive days, and give me miles of asphalt underfoot. And signs that say “Completo” and “Closed,” and as many blisters as you want. Give me hunger and thirst. Don’t forget to give me a cold shower – you know how much I love those! Give me albergues full of Frenchmen and bedbugs, and give me a poorly-placed waymark at the worst possible moment…  “But more than anything, give me a Camino, and give me thirty days.”    Read more

    Trip end
    October 27, 2023
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