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  • Day 29

    To the End of the Cruise - San Antonio

    February 17 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    On Feb 17 we anchor at Puerto Montt from 9am to 5:30 pm. We have booked a bus tour, Symphony of Lakes and Volcanoes. Andres, our guide, taught us a lot about Chile. The name does come from an old Spanish word for cold. Also the quick conversion from Centigrade to Fahrenheit. Double it and add 30. First up was a cloudy stop at the top of Osorno Volcano. The clouds did clear a bit. To get there we had driven along the shores of Llanquihue Lake (pronounced Yankee-Hue), the second largest lake in Chile. Then we drove down to Katarata, some river cascades named Petrohue Waterfalls. Not quite as exciting as Iguazu, but beautifully clear azure water with a spectacular mountain backdrop. The cascades are in the Vincente Perez Rosales national park. Then we drove to a hotel in Puerto Varas where we were treated to a very nice 3 course lunch with Chilean specialities. Started with pisco sours. Before re-joining the ship we had some time to wander around this lakeside town. The first European settlers were from Germany. Swimming was happening in Llanquihue Lake, but too cold for us.
    On the last full day (Feb 18) of the cruise we participated in a charity walk, ‘On Deck for a Cause’. We walked 5.5km starting at 9am. This is 11 laps of the Walk a Mile circuit. They do a charity walk each cruise. This time the money goes to victims of the Los Angeles fires. Only about 30 or so of the many passengers took part.
    It was a normal cruising day. We did attend a lecture by Professor Tim Naish. This one was about possible engineering solutions to the steadily rising oceans. It is going to be a very serious problem. The winds today were 30+ knots, fortunately from behind us. The blazing sunshine made for a very pleasant day (remember we were travelling at 18 knots with the wind). In the evening we had a very enjoyable final dinner in the Dining Room. No shows for us tonight, just a little light packing. Our suitcases need to be left outside the cabin by midnight. Disembarkation will happen from about 9am but we are in no hurry to leave.
    The cruise has been absolutely fantastic. The attitude of the staff makes the trip so good. They are always helpful, friendly, efficient, cheerful and often very funny. One of the breakfast waiters goes around with a coffee jug. He sings (loudly) with a big smile: “Hea-ven-ly cof-fee. Get your cof-fee from heav-en.”
    The food is really good. Breakfast is in the Lido Market (buffet) or Main Dining Room where you sit down and are waited on. In the Lido there is a huge variety including fruit, some cereal, porridge, omelette stations where they cook to order, eggs any way, lots of accompaniments, Asian congee with tasty additions, lashings of smoked salmon, toast. Tony tried a Peruvian breakfast dish one day. Of course lots of sweet things. Most food is served onto your plate by the staff.
    Lunch for us was mostly in the Lido. We really enjoyed the salads with a big choice of ingredients. Seared tuna was a favourite. There were curries (Malaysian or Indian), Chinese food, Western food. Many unhealthy and healthy choices.
    Most dinners for us were in the Main Dining Room. 3 really nice courses served by well-trained cheerful waiters. This is all included in the cruise price. The 3 special dinners enjoyed by Tony and Ursula in the upmarket restaurants cost a little extra.
    Tony has an expression he uses (too often some may say) when he has just experienced the perfect cup of masala chai; or is listening to an excellent version of Caravan; or is enjoying a delicious meal with good company looking at a vista of ocean or icebergs or fjord scenery. “This is the business.” He thought it (but refrained from saying it) several times every day of the cruise.
    If anyone has any questions about life on a big ship, virtually a moving town, please ask.
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  • Day 26

    To Chacabuco

    February 14 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We’ve now reached Friday 14 Feb. This morning during our morning Walk the channel took us through Summer Pass. The navigation team predicted as little as 1m of water under the keel. Scary, but we assume the navigation team knows what it is doing. We slowed down and Ed provided a commentary. There was actually 2m ground clearance under the keel when we passed between the beacons.
    This morning Captain Kevin gives a briefing and question/answer session about Oosterdam. Always amusing and informative. “I’ve been a captain since I was 3.” Shows a slide of a very young Kevin sitting in a blow-up boat. Also a lot of facts and figures about Oosterdam. You could buy her for about 175 million USD. A new cruise ship costs about 800 million USD.
    Today is a typical fjord cruising day. This evening we will stop at Brujo Glacier from about 4pm. It proves to be large and spectacular. We did the usual turns so everybody had a good look. There were plenty of dolphins playing nearby. There was lots of ‘gin and tonic’ ice floating around. Ed told us it has calved from the glacier. No more icebergs at all. We already learnt about ‘growlers’. These are icebergs about the size of a small car. Oosterdam tries to avoid them as they can scratch the paint.
    Now Tony can talk you through Saturday 15th Feb, so you can see just how action-packed our cruising days can be.
    The day starts with a sleep in. Dawn is much later now. It has gone from 5 something to 7 something. Marvellous what steadily travelling north will do.
    Then we Walk a Mile, followed by scenic coffee in the Crows Nest Lounge on Deck 10. Then breakfast in the Lido market on Deck 9. The window tables provide an excellent ocean view.
    At 11am we attended a lecture by Lou Sanson. It was titled Chilean Fjords, but was mostly about the HMS Wager wrecking. Not the Royal Navy’s finest moment as it includes a wreck, castaways, mutiny and an epic small boat journey. In 2023 David Grann wrote a best-selling non-fiction book about this, called The Wager. Tony was trying to remember why Wager Island jogged his memory. Finally recalled that he actually read this book several months ago. The movie will soon be released.
    From about 12 noon to 1pm Oosterdam makes a small detour to visit Wager Island. Not very exciting to look at but good to be able to actually place the events in the book.
    At 4:30 there is a Special Gathering on the Lido deck (Deck 9 beside the pool). Guests from Australia, New Zealand and the United Kingdom were invited to cocktails with the Captain and Hotel Manager. We met and chatted to some of the representative group of officers. It was an enjoyable festive occasion.
    At 7:30 we watched a ‘comedian’, Andrew Kennedy in the World Stage theatre. Don’t bother.
    At 8:30 we had our third special dinner of the cruise. Tonight at Pinnacle restaurant. The maître d' found us the same (wonderful) window table that we had last time. She said the surname did it, yesterday being Valentine’s Day. The food, wine and service were, of course, excellent.
    On Sun 16 Feb we have our next stop: Puerto Chacabuco. Small place so a relatively short visit – 6:30 to 2:30. There were some organised tours, but the fly fishing tour was too eye-wateringly expensive for us. We have no tour booked so can catch a tender to shore at a comfortable time. We walked to the points of interest of which there are not many. Had a look right around the town. Were surprised at seeing a large luxury hotel. Maybe this is a walking and fishing mecca. The housing and general mood of this small town are depressing.
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  • Day 24

    Punta Arenas via Glacier Alley

    February 12 in the United States ⋅ 🌬 -9 °C

    We start the next ‘footprint’ with an awesome cruise along the Beagle Channel’s Glacier Alley of the Chilean Fjords. What is particularly nice is that this spectacular series of views unfolds along the starboard side (our side) of the ship. We can sit in our warm cabin, sipping an evening drink and pop out into the chill of our balcony to take photos and get close-ups through the binoculars. Ed provides an enthusiastic commentary sprinkled with useful facts. “Seawater acts on glacier ice like battery acid.” “Water carves out a V shape. Ice a U shape.”
    The 6 glaciers take us about an hour to pass. Then of course it is time for dinner.
    Next day, Thu 13 Feb, we arrive in Punta Arenas on schedule at 10am. Punta Arenas is in Patagonia (Chile) and also claims to be the world’s most southern city; based on the larger population of about 130,000 inhabitants. However, it is not quite so far south as rival Ushuaia in Argentina. You decide.
    We have nothing booked so please ourselves and catch a tender to shore not too early. Tony has researched the best things to do. From the ship everyone receives a map of the town marked with interesting places. We walk and look. Tony was intrigued by a blog writer who said after finding Luan’s Restaurant she had all her subsequent meals there. We HAD to visit for a Patagonian lunch. It is in a residential area, off the beaten track. We are the first lunchtime guests but receive a warm welcome. Purely in the spirit of adventurous tourism, Tony had to try a Pisco Sour (it’s a drink). Delicious. Really nice lunch featuring very fresh seafood. Our waitress: “Don’t eat king crab anywhere now. It is out of season.” Family run, Poppa was cheerful, helpful and efficient.
    We explored the waterfront and the commercial centre. Quite a few lovely parks and treed avenues. Then we caught a tender back to the ship. From now on we will be threading our way north, mostly through the Chilean fjords but sometimes being forced out into the Pacific Ocean. Oosterdam draws about 8 metres. The captain is willing to pass through areas with as little as 1 metre of water under the keel.
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  • Day 22

    Cape Horn and Ushuaia

    February 10 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ -1 °C

    Mon 10, Tue 11, Wed 12 Feb
    After seeing our last iceberg on the evening of 9 Feb we began the 2 day re-crossing of Drake Passage. This time the ship moved a little more. Wind was around 30-45 knots from the SW, so coming from our (favourable) port quarter. The swell was about 4m. With the stabilisers in full operation Oosterdam was fairly stable, although we could feel some movement. Enough to make you think about balance while walking. Never enough to ever look like capsizing a wineglass, nor spill a drop.
    Prior to our next 2 destinations, Ushuaia and Punta Arenas, there are briefings, “Your day in …..”, by Ed the cruise entertainment director. He is originally from Costa Rica and gives us an excellent outline of what to expect in these 2 southern cities.
    After a couple of typically comfortable (luxurious?) cruising days across the Passage we need to pick up our Chilean pilot. Then we proceed to Cape Horn. Contrary to our former ignorance, Cape Horn is on a small island, Isla Hornos. Yes, it is the most southern tip of the South American continent. Spectacular scenery. The ship comes quite close and we do the usual “doughnut” turns (as Captain Kevin describes them).
    Then after crossing what looks like open sea we start to thread our way into the Beagle Channel. Part of the Chile/Argentina border is down the middle of this waterway. We reach Ushuaia next morning. It has strong claims to be the world’s most southern city with a population of a little over 82,000. Not quite as big as Launceston. Ushuaia is in Tierra del Fuego which Tony had never realised is an island. About the size of Ireland (or Tasmania). The southern part of South America is not solid land. There are lots of islands with big navigable channels between them. Such as the Straits of Magellan.
    We moor alongside in Ushuaia so it is easy to disembark then walk to our catamaran for the cruise on the Beagle Channel. This is another of the shore excursions we booked in early January.
    We spent a very pleasant 2 hours on the cruise, seated near a group of Canadians. We had an extremely close look at colonies of imperial cormorants and (the best) several groups of sea lions. Previously, we had thought penguins smelt badly, but this was worse. Downwind is not the place to be.
    We found a very nice café for our morning coffee with Rob and Trevor. Then we had time to walk around this town. There is a narrow flat strip near the water and everything else is on the side of a hill. Interesting housing. Found some penguin-based souvenirs to take home.
    This evening we are going for a cruise through Glacier Alley.
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  • Day 21

    Antarctica Special Photo Edition

    February 9 in Antarctica ⋅ ❄️ 0 °C

    Here are a few iceberg photos. Goodbye to the Antarctic.
    Hang on, shouldn’t leave without mentioning the wildlife.
    At Deception Island there were huge colonies of chinstrap penguins. About 100,000 breeding pairs. From a distance you can see the distinctive brown stain of the ground at the colonies. Downwind the stench is awesome.
    At Port Lockroy more than 1,500 Gentoo penguins live in and around the base. They ignore the base personnel as they go about their daily tasks. Don’t know how the people there survive the stench!
    We saw lots of whales. Humpback, Fin and Right whales. Spouts all over the place, views of big black backs then often the waving tail flukes as they dive. Tony’s views were somewhat distant. Ursula saw a close-up.
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  • Day 19

    Antarctica 2

    February 7 in Antarctica ⋅ ☁️ 1 °C

    On Friday 7 Feb Hope Bay was the first stop. A RIB came out from the settlement. We gave them fresh food, chocolates and sweets as there are 12 kids staying there. The kids are there because Argentina wants to establish a country under international law in Antarctica. By definition a country needs a border and a resident population. Sneaky. The people stay 2 years. Emilio Palma was the first to be born there, in 1978. We suspect he is not still resident. Sunny afternoon. We reached Deception Island at 7pm. Our dinner was at Pinnacle, one of the 3 up-market dining experiences we had booked. Lovely food culminating in a freshly baked chocolate soufflé (for Tony). We had wondered why the dessert took so long.
    For the other days there are so many pictures of icebergs that they exceed the FindPenguins limit (which they have generously increased to 20 photos per footprint). Tony has made some extra footprints.
    Not much need for further commentary. Snow and fog flurries, icebergs, craggy mountains, whales, penguins, the occasional seal, uncomfortable-looking habitations, cool visits outside and to our balcony.
    We experienced a lot of snow and poor visibility. Funnily enough when we get to the viewing points it clears offering expansive views.
    Tony was disappointed we didn’t go south of the Antarctic Circle (66°30′ S). Apparently there are a whole new set of rules for cruise ships to go further south. The closest we got to the midnight sun was to have sunrise at 5am and sunset at 9:50pm.
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  • Day 18

    Antarctica 1

    February 6, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    We have 4 absolutely, spectacularly unforgettable days of cruising this unique region. Better write down the highlights so we don’t forget anything.
    First we have to get there. We need to make the long voyage across Drake Strait to Antarctica. Drake Strait is the open piece of water south of South America. Many ships have foundered in this area. No protection whatsoever from the eternally blowing strong westerly winds. Cruising blogs talk about the Drake Lake or the Drake Shake. We get the lake. Lovely and smooth.
    Typical cruising day on Feb 5th. Tony wishes he could remember what we did, but you can rest assured it was very comfortable and we ate and drank too much. Probably listened to an informative lecture during the day and attended a concert by Irish violinist Mairead Nesbitt in the evening.
    We’ve been Walking a Mile each morning at around 7am. Each day gets a little cooler as we are travelling due south at 18 knots. First day in the Antarctic region (Feb 6th) the walking was a little cool. Tony thought he had packed tracksuit pants, but couldn’t find them. Not many other people in shorts. Gentle sleet which turned into snow during the walk. We kept passing a MOST ANNOYING American. He was walking the other (wrong) way. “Did you see the whale? Out there.” (We didn’t.) Next lap “did you see the iceberg?” “Yeah right.” It really was there. Next lap. “The whales were right alongside.” (Didn’t see them.) We did manage to see a distant feathery spout and a piece of black back. Patches of snow on the deck made us watch our step. Tony thinks (hopes) the crew would close the deck if there was any real danger.
    When scenic cruising they open the bow doors so passengers can move onto the forward decks on several levels to take in the spectacular views. This allows an icy blast to rush through the corridors. Bracing. From the cabins you can see forward using the bow camera view on the TV. We did go outside in short bursts. It is easy to see to starboard from our balcony. When we are near a penguin colony the distinctive stench flows right through the ship.
    FOMO is a big motivator for these days. Lou and Tim (our Antarctic experts) announce any animal or view must-sees. Passengers scurry to their nearest vantage points. Cameras and binoculars poised. Our binoculars prove to be very handy.
    This morning (Feb 6) starts foggy. No wind to blow it away. First scenic stop is Elephant Is where the Shackleton or Frank Wild memorial is situated on Point Wild. We hover around and catch glimpses through the fog. We tried to imagine how it would have been for Shackleton’s party stuck there while Shackleton and 2 others sailed a flimsy lifeboat to South Georgia to arrange a rescue. It took months. Frank Wild somehow managed to maintain morale until they were rescued. Do you know the story? Lou Sanson from our on board Antarctic team presented a very interesting lecture on this. His summary of the 3 best known Antarctic figures was: “Scott was best for scientific measurements and rigour. Amundsen to stick to the plan; get you directly there and back. But when all seems lost and the shit has really hit the fan, get on your knees and pray for Shackleton to lead you to safety.”
    The fog lifted and visibility improved offering us good views at our next stop: Point Valentine on the eastern end of Elephant Island. This proved to be the pattern for the rest of this adventure. Intermittent foggy snowstorms, but at each stop we had really good views. Captain Kevin managed to get this 82,000 tonne ship mostly within about 100m of the rocky or icy viewpoint. Then when possible he would do a slow 360 degree turn so all external cabins could see the view.
    This evening at dinner time (7pm) we stopped at a HUGE Iceberg. 12 miles long. 2nd biggest known. This a piece off the largest iceberg A-23a.
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  • Day 16

    Falkland Islands

    February 4 in Falkland Islands ⋅ 🌬 8 °C

    We spent 3 Feb at sea. Another restful day. Always plenty to do. Tony has been joining the pickup game of pickleball in the afternoons on Deck 11. He’s now had a few games. He’s learnt the rules by chatting to people in the line awaiting their turn to play. And tactics. Sometimes there is a very strong wind. Makes the game very interesting.
    The captain isn’t the only comedian on board. A waiter at lunch. Tony ordered a glass of prosecco. “And for you, mam?” “A glass of water please.” He just stood and looked at Ursula. No expression. For a while. No words needed. She didn’t cave in.
    In the evening we attended the Rolling Stone Lounge. Tony had been devastated to find out that the BB King bar has disappeared. This replacement has a bar and very loud music so not all bad. R&B tonight. Pretty good. They do 45 minute sessions. Afterwards Tony and Rob had a quick look (Tony) at some very modern dancing in the World Stage.
    In the pickleball queue Tony had discovered that only about 50% of stops at the Falklands actually happen. Strong winds often blow up, as the ships have to anchor out. Today (Feb 4th) we visit Port Stanley. Yesterday, 35 knots of wind. Today 10 knots. Tomorrow 35 knots. How lucky can you be?
    We need to catch a tender ashore. Finally land. Tony’s plan is to catch a shuttle bus to Gypsy Cove where we can see Magellanic and Gentoo penguins. Pub lunch then historic walk using a map available at the tourism office. Rob decides to walk to Gypsy Cove. Only 6.5 km. (Whoops, was actually 6.5 miles. He still does it.)
    The bus driver’s name was Nick. “I’m a Falkland Islander. I was 19 during the Falklands war. The Argies were planning to use the civilians as human shields. Fortunately they didn’t get a chance.”
    We were told that the Argentinians at the end surrendered very quickly. The British general walked into Stanley, went straight to the pub and ordered a pint.
    Port Stanley is VERY British. Like Gibraltar. Drive on our side of the road, British pounds, red phone and letter boxes, neat vegetable gardens. Population of the Falklands is a little over 3,000. Only a few more than that of passengers and crew onboard the Oosterdam. Trevor tells us that due to the billion or so dollars the squid fishing reaps, the Falkland Islands would have a per capita income to rival Luxembourg and United Arab Emirates if it were a country in its own right. Public infrastructure in Stanley is excellent.
    Gypsy Cove has searingly white sand and a lovely outlook. Very few penguins. We saw a few among the bushes as we walked through the low scrub. Did a 40 minute walk along narrow paths through the scrub. Nice views of harbour and town. Shuttles back to town a bit sparse. Big crowd waiting. We used our subtle urging skills to ensure seats on the first one to arrive. Back in town and up the hill is the pub: Victory Bar. Tony gets the last table. Ursula checks the menu with our bar lady. “Fish and chips. Or chips and fish.” We go to a restaurant nearby (Groovy’s). Excruciatingly long wait for our pints and fish dishes. Passable.
    Tony gets the Town Trails map from the very helpful ladies at the Visitors Centre. We choose the shorter 4km History Walk. Not far into the walk it starts to rain. Stanley has over 250 rain days each year. Only light so we keep going. May not ever return here. The first part of the walk takes us through the back streets of town. We marvel at the very productive vegetable gardens. Many tunnel houses. Most gardens are extremely neat. A highlight was the Whalebone display. We see quite a few school kids going home. We pass the large Community School buildings. It has a big indoor swimming pool. Finally we turn down to the waterfront for the return to town. We pass many monuments and sights. Quick visit to the Dockyard Museum. Then a relaxing tender ride back to Oosterdam.
    Afterwards we discovered that on a previous cruise the weather blew up (to 60 knots), while the passengers were ashore. The ship had to put to sea. Couldn’t return for 3 days. Passengers were somehow accommodated in the town. We were lucky.
    Tonight on the World Stage we saw comedian Geoff Boyz. His best joke involved a 50th birthday skydive in Australia. Hilarious. 45 minutes of laughter is excellent relief from the pressures of this cruising life!!
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  • Day 14

    Puerto Madryn

    February 2 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    This morning (Sun 2 Feb) Tony and Ursula Walked a Mile at about 7am. Then our new habit is to go to the Crows Nest café, Deck 10, for a coffee. The café staff know what a flat white coffee is and can sometimes make a good one. A few Americans that Tony chatted to are also familiar with the flat white coffee. It has spread. Crows Nest has views over the bow from very high up. Spectacular. Tony is looking forward to watching the bow plunging into some green water. Ursula not so much.
    We berthed alongside then found the blue balloon which marked our tour position. Janet was our guide for the bus tour to Peninsula Valdes. As we drove off she explained about Puerto Madryn in halting English. It is quite industrial with a large aluminium plant. By the way, we are back in Argentina, the land of the small peso and galloping inflation. The minibus trip took over 2 hours. One comfort stop at a very new Information centre. The trip featured unsealed corrugated roads and lots of dust. We saw many guanacos. Also an armadillo. Guanacos are llama-like animals roaming in family groups. Eventually we arrived at the seal place, Punta Cantor. Part of the tour provision was a brown paper bag lunch. Not memorable. The final insult was being forbidden to leave the dusty car park to eat it. There’s a café which jealously guards its turf.
    We saw some large seals comatose in the distance. We were told they are elephant seals. Rob and Tony walked a track to a lookout. Tony had a brush with an armadillo, which are about the size of a small/medium dog. There is a separate penguin viewing platform which we visited on the way home. We were within a few metres of several Magellanic penguins. Very interesting, but probably not good enough to justify the 5 hours of driving and the high cost of the tour.
    Dinner was very crowded as the early eaters had been doing tours and were back later. After dinner we again visited the World Stage and caught the last part of the show by pianist Pablo Bendersky. Excellent.
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  • Day 12

    Montevideo and Onwards

    January 31 in Uruguay ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Punta del Este is the furthest north we travel on this trip. About the same latitude as Sydney. Travelling south from now on it will get cooler with much longer days.
    Now it’s Friday, 31st Jan. Today we arrived in Montevideo at 8am. First impressions are that the port area is very industrialised. We have a 2 hour cycling tour booked through the Holland America system so it is a little easier to manage. We are berthed alongside, so it is much quicker to reach the shore. A few metres from the ship is a big group of cycles. That’s us. We meet Fernando. Guess what: he has a white T-shirt, is 30-ish, speaks clear English and is very enthusiastic about both Montevideo and Uruguay. These bikes have very small wheels and feel a bit insecure until you speed up. Since it is an earlyish start (8am) there is not much traffic and many businesses are not yet open. We firstly cycle through the old part of the town, much of which is carless. Very relaxing. In a first for us we have a police motorcycle escort, front and rear. We feel very secure. Nice parks and old buildings - very European looking. We stop at Constitution Square surrounded by many important buildings. We enjoy a long ride along the seafront with a watering stop at a park. On the way back we stop at another lovely park. There are plenty of these. The tour was a really good experience. Fernando waxed lyrical about life in Uruguay. Their peso has had the same exchange rate with the US dollar for 30 years. Stable democratic government also. Both very unlike their much larger neighbour (Argentina). Pleasant climate. No frost in the coastal areas. Free public schooling and University education, free medical.
    Tony was very keen to visit the Museo Naval. There’s an Admiral Graf Spee exhibition about the Battle of the River Plate. Tony’s father fought in this battle aboard Achilles, a light cruiser. Our previous guide had dismissed the battle by saying “3 British against 1 German ship”. True. But the Graf Spee had larger guns with a much longer range and better radar so they were more accurate in the smoke of battle. She was able to shoot the Exeter almost to pieces even before Exeter’s guns were in range. After the battle Exeter had to limp to the Falklands for repairs enough to get back to England. Churchill, with his typical bulldog obstinacy, ordered that Exeter not be scrapped. Probably to refute the German propaganda. Took 9 months to repair her. The German propaganda had stated that Exeter had been sunk and the other British ships severely damaged while Admiral Graf Spee sustained only light damage. In fact they were unable to repair Graf Spee in neutral Montevideo, so her captain scuttled her outside the harbour. Wreck still there. (More information: https://www.iwm.org.uk/history/what-you-need-to…). (End of history lesson.)
    For our museum visit we had no trouble with Ubers. Had walked into town so we had an actual address. Museum was small. Not much of the exhibition was in English. We watched a very informative video in English with footage from the time interleaved into the narrative. Unfortunately a busload of German tourists arrived. We persisted for a little, but had to abandon our position so they could switch to the German language version. T & U lost their River Plate battle.
    Ubered back to town with Cecilia. There are not many female Uber drivers. Looked through a very lively old market in the port area. Found a small very new café for a very pleasant coffee experience. Montivedeo is an extremely nice place. Fernando is right. Let’s migrate here.
    Oosterdam left Montevideo in the early evening on the cusp between drinks and dinner.
    We are going on a tour in Puerto Madryn on 2nd Feb to see penguins and seals. Appropriately, the movie My Penguin Friend was on in the World Stage. We enjoyed it very much.
    We had been looking forward to a day at sea to gather our resources and relax. Sat 1 Feb is that day. Well: at 7am there is Walk a Mile, coffee, breakfast. Rob and Trevor made the mistake of trying pickleball instruction which succeeded in confusing them. Too windy to actually play. Tony and Ursula saw a 45 minute presentation, Once There Were Trees by Professor Tim Naish. Really thought-provoking. Nice to hear a balanced scientific view on global warming.
    This evening there is the Captain’s Welcome in the World Stage. Everyone is presented with a drink on the way in. Captain Kevin Beirnaert is Belgian and speaks with a clipped, slightly Dutch-like accent. He starts: “I’ve been on Duolingo. Buonasera… arrivederci...” Pretends to walk off and then comes back. Lots of laughter. “I wish to greet people in their own languages.” Biggest group is from USA - over 700 passengers. “Welcome.” Then 300 plus from Canada. “Welcome.” Over 200 from the UK. “Welcome.” Then “The noisy Australians - 138 of you. Welcome.” Are you getting the gist? He also talked amusingly about trying to avoid icebergs and the most powerful man aboard. Not him. Chief engineer who controls 35,000 HP.
    Tonight we have a meal booked in one of the more up-market restaurants aboard. Canaletto. Really nice Italian food. Our waiter was priceless. “They call me Wishy-washy.” He lives in Indonesia (Java) and has been working on ships for around 30 years. “I cruise for 8 months of the year, then 4 months at home – making children.” Tony: “So you have 30 children?” Big laugh. “No. Only 2.” Later he did a card trick. We haven’t seen a waiter like this before. Very amusing.
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