Malta to Uk not direct.

September - October 2023
A 22-day adventure by Peter Read more
  • 17footprints
  • 5countries
  • 22days
  • 211photos
  • 9videos
  • 2.3kmiles
  • Day 1

    Ortigia Sicily

    September 10, 2023 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    Off to an interesting start.
    No problems with the car in Malta until I board the ferry to leave and it blows a fuse that powers the sat nav and phone charger. Fixed in two minutes so not a problem.
    The car ferry was smooth and comfortable and the drive to Syracuse was a bit bumpy.
    Arriving into Ortigia came as a shock. We were not expecting the sheer volume of people and cars. It took ages to find a place to park and in the end I've left the car in a covered car park full of graffiti and close to the bed of a street sleeper. I had no choice.
    Well if ever a place was overwhelmed by consumerism so its historical and cultural significance is diluted to a point where you find it impossible to enjoy. Ortigia must be the epitome. So much beauty and history surrounded by bars restaurants and thousand of people. Cars parked everywhere. Maybe winter is a better time to visit. Such a shame
    We did find some quiet areas eventually which was nice. If you like Aperol spritz this is the place to visit. It is advertised everywhere. Amazing marketing.
    We arrived as it got dark so most places of interest where closed including the cathedral. The temple of Apollo was surrounded by noisy bars as where must historical sights.
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  • Day 2

    Santo Stefano di Rogliano

    September 11, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We saw Ortigia in daylight this morning for the first time and it created a much better impression than last night. We enjoyed a walk and breakfast before the testing drive out of the city.
    Driving up to the ferry at Messina we saw many burnt trees and even road signs with the paint burnt off.
    We met some nice people as we waited for the ferry including its captain who agreed I could come to his bridge during the crossing if he could have his photo taken in the car. See photos.
    It was interesting to watch a train going into the ferry next to ours. See video.
    While on the ferry we decided how much further to drive and where to stay tonight then booked it.
    The accommodation is charming with a beautiful view.

    While driving over the Calabrian mountains the cross wind became noisy so after a coffee stop we both put in ear plugs. Wow, suddenly the car sounded much better, it ran smoother and speed went up from 80 to 90kph. So if Lewis Hamilton is reading this it could make the difference he needs right now.
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  • Day 3

    Matera

    September 12, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Three hours driving brought us to Matera. It was very hot and in several places there where large fires thankfully not near our road. Bluebelle took it all in her stride and never missed a beat even when climbing long hills in what felt like 35+c
    We parked in a multi story car park and walked about 15 minutes into the old part of Matera which is the third oldest city in the world after Jerico and Allepo.
    It is beautiful and worth the effort to see as the photos prove.
    I didn't want to drive much more so while we had a drink and a sandwich we booked an Agroturismo farm stay 45 minutes drive from Matera towards the coast. It has about ten rooms and after registering at the farm house which is also the restaurant a man told us to follow him as he cycled to the accommodation in another party of the farm.
    The farm has lots of animals including geese, donkeys, deer, horses, it is very nice.

    We have a situation where we must get to Split in Croatia on the 18th as Mandy needs to fly to the UK for a few days so I'm going to wait near Split until she returns then we resume the journey. So with that in mind I've booked a ferry from Ancona to Split on the evening of three 15th as that was the only available.
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  • Day 4

    Parco nazional del gorgo

    September 13, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    We stopped on our way out of the farm stay to admire the baby donkeys.
    To get back to the main road we needed to go through a tunnel under the railway. It was not much wider than the car.
    We took the motorway up to the spur of Italy and detoured along a narrow causeway which had so many white flamingos feeding in the shallow waters then on and into the national park climbing through so many hairpin bends up 800 metres for lunch at Monte San Angelo which is a historic world heritage site. It was such a good drive up and down. We stopped several times for photos.
    One again I was rather tired as we arrived at tonight's comfortable hotel close to the motorway.
    After a short rest I went to the car and used duck tape to close a few holes in the transmission tunnel through which hot air was blowing from the engine. Normally this isn't a problem but going up mountains in 32c the air from the engine didn't help.
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  • Day 5

    San Benedetto de Tronto

    September 14, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    San Benedetto de Tronto

    When I looked out the window this morning it had been raining and the forecast was possible thunderstorms all day. So we had a quick breakfast and set off.
    Thankfully the poor weather was behind us and we quickly drove into sunshine until we reached a huge jam on the motorway. First and second gear for half an hour so we turned off and drove to the coast road which as it turned out was not such a good idea for two reasons. The first is that it went through town after town and we never saw the sea at all. The second was we were behind a huge crane lorry with a car in front moving the traffic to the side so once again first and second gear for a long time.
    Eventual we arrived at this four star hotel. I thought we should have a treat on our last night in Italy. I think it is worthy of three stars. It has a nice pool and it is across the road from the beach. It has private parking at an extra cost.
    The beach has thousands of empty deck chairs. It is probably horrendous in the holiday season.
    Tomorrow an easy drive to Ancona for the overnight ferry to Split in Croatia.
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  • Day 6

    Ancona ferry port. Italy

    September 15, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We have just boarded the good ship Moby Zazá to Spilt and as usual in Italy the apparent disorganisation leaves you feeling they have never done this before. The booking tells you to go to the port. When you get there you are told to go 2 kilometres to the check in office where you wait one and a half hours before heading the two kilometres back and wait another hour and three quarters before board begins. Boarding with the car is like playing Tetris as the cars are fitted into eachother like pieces on a board at all angles with about 100 motorcycles all jammed in by the cars. Mandy videoed me going up the ramp which is much steeper than it looks. We are setting sail 45 minutes late.
    All of that was after a pleasant relaxing 100 mile drive in a little pocket of sunshine on an otherwise rather cloudy day. We stopped for coffee to pass time on the way at what turned out to be a really nice café and had a good laugh with the staff.
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  • Day 7

    Peruça Lake Croatia

    September 16, 2023 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Yesterday I was not very complimentary about the ferry port at Ancona. The ship was old and the cars where packed in like sardines and I was expecting chaos as we came off, however I was surprised and pleased at just how well it was all managed by the crew.
    The passage was very calm and uneventful. I met a couple of young Italian motorcyclists and enjoyed chatting with them.
    Mandy got off as a foot passenger as we remembered a time years ago when we nearly suffocated in the fumes and took 3 hours to get off a ferry.
    Petrol here is 50c a litre cheaper than Italy as I suspected so I filled an almost empty tank soon after getting off the ferry.
    Croatia is such a beautiful country and the roads are much better than many countries. We are now at lake Peruça and will stay 2 days. Take a look at the photos from the ferry last night and today's drive. Tomorrow we go sight seeing near here and I need to do a job in the car as the rear driver's side wheel bearing started squeaking just a little today.

    Tonight we joined a wedding celebration. See the photos 😊
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  • Day 8

    Sukosan near Zadar. Croatia

    September 17, 2023 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Sukosan near Zadar

    We visited the Eye of Croatia which was beautiful. It is the source of the Cetina river and is over 150 metre deep and very cold.
    As usual many people wanted to photo the car including one very pretty girl from Poland who I let sit in it. I thought she was really nice until she asked how old is the car then asked if I've had it from new! Her family had a drone and offered to send me footage of the Eye and my car and then we met again at the church of the Holy Salvation. A few kilometres away.
    I don't have the footage yet. I will add it when it arrives.
    A beautiful drive back to our accommodation included crossing a river that was so pretty.
    When we got back Mandy went to paint and I took the wheel off the car to find why it was squeaking just a little. The wheel bearings where very well packed with grease so it isn't that. I cleaned the drum and put it all back together. It still squeaks but it is so gentle I'll just put in my ear plugs. That'll fix it.
    After a cuppa I went out in the kayak which was so difficult to manage in the currents that I didn't stay long.

    This morning I came to check out and the man said cash only. I didn't have enough so we agreed on a bank transfer which wouldn't accept his IBAN number. In the end I used PayPal which did accept it. Problem solved.
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  • Day 10

    Still at Sukosan

    September 19, 2023 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    The drive from lake Peruça was a real pleasure. No traffic no motorway nice roads and small quiet towns. I did notice the steering of the car was becoming a bit iffy, the free play on the steering wheel needed adjusting. It's a VW steering box so I made a note to do it after Mandy had gone.

    Mandy needed to fly back to England to attend an open day at the Royal society of marine artists because for the first time they are exhibiting one of her paintings. I'll attach a photo of it. She really is very good. On the 21st she flies back to Zadar which is why we chose a place near the airport for me to wait for her.

    After Mandy left for the airport I adjusted the steering. The apartment we rented includes covered parking, a swimming pool and nice rooms. The job was straight forward, I jacked up the car so there was very little weight on the wheels as I made the adjustment. Then I went for a walk to the marina which is 15 minutes away. A short rest, a sandwich then a 4 hour walk along unmade tracks to get to a place in the hills high above Sukosan from where Zadar was shelled during the war. I got to within 100 meter and there was a fence stopping me. I was exhausted by the time I got back as a lot of the walking was hard going.

    Next day
    I've taken the car out for an 11 minute drive to the place I didn't get to in 2 hours each way walking yesterday. It was closed.

    On the way back I stopped to fill Bluebelle's tank with petrol as I pulled in I was followed by seven cars all with Belgian registration. Five were Lamborghini's with a couple Porsche's. I chatted to the owners, the black car next to mine in the photo has 650 horse power. My MG has 53. I was first to pay for my fuel, there were 3 Lamborghini owners behind me so I said in a loud voice mine is the nice one and the attendant guessed correctly. Then he asked if it is an old Lamborghini.
    The sports car owners came and listened in awe as I started the engine to leave. They were a friendly bunch.

    On the subject of mistaken identity, since we left Malta I've been asked three times if Bluebelle is a Rolls-Royce twice if it is a Morgan and once if it is a Jaguar.
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  • Day 14

    Senj Croatia

    September 23, 2023 in Croatia ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    Today was very much influenced by the weather as we tried to outrun the Bora. A Bora is a katabatic wind which is cool air from the mountains meets warm air causing the wind to plummet down from the mountain at very high speed to the Adriatic sea. There are only a few places in the world where this phenomenon happens. It causes roads and bridges to be closed and often results in damage to house. It is known to be strongest and coldest wind in Europe. One is forecast for tonight.

    We could see bad weather approaching from behind us as we left Sukosan. We got as far as Senj traveling along the coastal road which is one of the most renowned motorcyclists roads in the world. We had two hours of continuous bends on a perfect road surface. We wanted to get further than Sinj but the weather caught up and a thunder storm stopped us in our tracks so we quickly booked a place to stay that has covered parking for Blubelle. We are not out of the Bora's influence so we hope it will not be a severe one.

    The historic coastal town of Senj was settled in the second century BC by the Romans. In 1184 it was given to the Knights Templar by the then king of Hungary. It has a nice fortress still standing that was built in 1548. We enjoyed a walk around as it was not overrun by tourists.
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