Laurie Reynolds

Joe is the same. Able to get himself up and to the bathroom, pretty good appetite, drinking juice and water, but no energy to go out. I have not once returned to the room to find him awake. I decided not to tempt fate for the last two days here, so I gave up on the idea of us taking a cab out to a spot along the coast.

I set out alone, basically on a beach promenade walk to Boccanasse, which used to be a fishing village and is now a place for ice cream and strolling. I was told not to miss the Gelateria Amadeo, so I dutifully complied and got a cup of my favorite, pistacchio. It was very nice to see so many people out and about enjoying the day. There is a lot of construction going on, and it looks like they are trying to improve the pedestrian amenities along the entire promenade. Lots of old palazzos and beautiful apartment buildings. At one critical juncture on the way back, I had to leave the water and loop up and around a huge construction project. This took me past the hospital where Joe could have gone. As I watched ambulances arriving, worried families congregating, and dedicated responders rushing to and fro, I was very thankful that we had avoided that option.

My afternoon walk was back to the old port- This time I turned off google maps and just wandered through the incredible maze of tiny streets and alleys. Every now and then I would arrive at a spot described by the hotel staff as a “critical area,” which meant that I would turn around and get back into more bustling territory. It’s not a huge area, so you’re never far from streets with cars. As I passed the main square, I saw that the Christmas market had been totally dismantled and a group of men was already busy working to put together the stage for the New Year’s Eve extravaganza.

Joe wanted a hamburger again, so I found my way to another highly rated hamburgueria. We are surely not breaking the bank with our food expenses!Les mer

I had hoped that Joe would want to go down to breakfast today, but he said he was still too tired and prefered to stay in bed. I didn’t push it, so I brought him up a plate. Thus began another day of quick trips out to the Centro Histórico and then back to the hotel to check in.

First I went to the cathedral. I’ve seen several similar romanesque Italian churches, and this one was just as nice. In a very nice little square with all sorts of little shops and cafés. I saw the supposed relics of St. John the Baptist, enjoyed the Romanesque interior, and lit a candle while sitting and pondering our situation. No great revelations arrived at my doorstep. Walking through the narrow streets is something Joe just won’t be able to do no matter how strong he gets.

Second trip - down to the Old Port. I saw the Santa Claus marathon revving up. And I walked through a total maze of tiny streets and alleys.

Third trip - on a city-sponsored walking tour of four palaces. Genova had hundreds, all built in the 1600s, when the gold was pouring in from Spain and the Americas. Some are still privately inhabited, but most have been turned into banks, commercial offices etc. We were able to go inside to see how the other half lived back in the day. Lots of gilded nymhs.

I am still contemplating what to do. I’ve added a third option for December 26th — go home, go to Bergamo on the train tickets I bought, or go to Bergamo in a private transfer. Joe says he very much prefers the latter and does not want to go home. He insists he is feeling “nothing unpleasant” and is just tired. And as a dear camino friend, who is also a pulmonologist, pointed out — he will have a better trip home the more rested he is.

I will bring in another dinner soon. Hopefully another night of good sleep will mean he can make it down to breakfast tomorrow.Les mer