Camino Via de la Plata

My third and longest Camino Leer más

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21 de septiembre de 2022
Camino Via de la Plata Viajero
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How will I find the way?
19 de septiembre de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C
These days, as well as the Camino way markers there are Interactive maps that let you know which way to go. So there is little chance of getting lost, although it still happens.
However the way markers- usually arrows or camino shells - are the (recently) traditional way you know where to go. Of course hundreds of years ago I imagine you would just head in the general direction along main roads - which were not like main roads today - asking for directions along the way.
The Pilgrimage to Santiago is 1200 years old. I read recently that the arrows are a relatively new thing - maybe only the last 50 years if that - and are yellow because initially they used some free left-over yellow road paint which was at hand.
Directions appear in many different ways. Here are some examples that haven’t appeared in other posts.
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Viajero 👌😁
29/10/22Responder
ViajeroA universal language
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Camino Via de la Plata Viajero
What’s in my pack
19 de septiembre de 2022, España ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C
What you take in your pack depends on the Camino you are walking, the time of year, your gender, your age, does your body run hot or cold, the weather that particular year, your physical health and fitness, whether you will carry your pack or have it transported, and probably other things I haven’t thought of.
However the core items are pretty much the same for everyone.

This is what I had in my pack for the Via de la Plata / Sanabres (Sevilla to Santiago) from 22 September - 20 November 2022

Started with -

Clothes - general - for hot to cold ( I didn't wash every night especially as the weather got cooler)
1 Trek zip pants
1 lightweight shorts (I left those as the weather got cooler)
1 long sleeve merino top
1 short sleeve merino top
1 light sleeveless merino top
1 extra light T-shirt for very hot Andelucian evenings (or a light dress next time)
3/4 leggings (only wore a few times)
2 pairs Bridgedale Lightweight merino socks (forgot one pair at Zamora))
1 compression socks
2 quick dry undies
2 bras
1 light wind fleece
1 light shower / wind jacket
Lightweight gloves
Buff
Cap

Purchased along the way
Salamanca - Rain poncho - 275 g

Zamora - clothes for colder evenings
Lightweight Warm track pants
Lightweight Fleece Vest

Other
Vitamins - various
Sun / rain umbrella - a lifesaver
Small towel (left my original somewhere and had to replace)
Large scarf (left somewhere and didn’t replace)
Toiletries - shampoo and conditioner, half a soap, toothpaste and toothbrush, face cream and body lotion, sun screen
Minimal first aid kit - a few bandaids, a few ibuprofin, panadol and antihistamines
Nail clippers, nail scissors, tweezers and mirror, a bit of gaffer tape, needle and thread (never used), lighter (never used) ….
Pegless clothes line, 6 safety pins, laundry flakes (most places had laundry soap or hand soap for just socks and undies)
Sea to Summit Ultrasil day pack
Water bottle - plastic (for extra water, for at night and for filling the internal water bladder)

Footwear
Merrill MOAB 3 Mids Wide fit, with orthotics in one shoe and an alternate inner sole in the other - the second orthotic gave me a small blister by day 3
Tebo style sandals
Trekking poles (purchased in Sevilla) - I include these in footwear as they are really to support feet, ankles and knees.

Sleeping
Good quality silk sleep sheet
Sea to Summit Traveller down sleeping bag - can be opened up to be a blanket. (425 grams)

Pack
Osprey Sirius 36 litre - always plenty of room for extra food
Water bladder insert- I find it’s better to regularly take smaller drinks of water than a whole lot every hour

What changed
My half bar of soap ran out. I found a small shampoo and used it for body wash, hair and on occasions laundry
I topped up my very small bottle of conditioner from a supply at an albergue
I bought Voltarin Plus cream for my chronic foot problem.
Purchased more anithistamines for hayfever at one point
I had to buy more ibuprofen and paracetamol when my knee was bad for a week or so

I found Rob’s video ‘What’s in my pack?’ really useful. Particularly the gaffer tape - I used it on my collapsing poles. 🙏🙏

https://youtu.be/jWW7ihHr1vALeer más
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ViajeroWas there anything you packed that you didn’t use?
17/11/22Responder
ViajeroCigarette lighter, sewing kit (two needles and one spool of thread), an emergency black garbage bag, I think that’s all. I had it down to bare essentials. And it amazing how you can just wear the same clothes every day - especially when the only people you see more than once are others pilgrims who are just like you. It made me realise - yet again - how irrelevant so many of the objects in our lives are.
25/11/22Responder
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Camino Via de la Plata Viajero
Where will I sleep on VDLP in 2022?
19 de septiembre de 2022, España ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
On Camino we often try to find the cheapest accomodation. Many of us are on a budget and the albergue is a place to shower, eat and sleep. Having said that a warm, clean, welcoming albergue and the companionship of other pilgrims can make all the difference after a hard day.

There are a number of Apps that will help you find accommodation. I used gronze.com. This website also has a comments section although you need to be careful as to how much weight you give to these comments. A couple of places in which I stayed had some negative comments about cleanliness and the hosts manner, which in my mind were much exaggerated. I found these places to be OK - I would still give them a pass mark - and I spent a pleasant night there.

This Camino I have been impressed with the pilgrim accomodation - ranging in price from donativo to €20.
The different types of accomodation include -
✔️ The municipal or pilgrim-only albergue’s which are often by donation. In Galicia the municipal albergues are €8 (in 2022). They are generally very new and of an exceptional standard. The pilgrim-only albergues are staffed by volunteers or municipal employees and are committed to the Camino. They rarely take bookings.
✔️ The Turistica (private) Albergues which are more like backpacker hostels and follow certain government regulations. They always cost €15. You can book ahead with these.
✔️ Other private albergues vary in style and standard and range, but are generally good to excellent as they are in competition with each other - generally around the €15 mark.
✔️ Normal ‘hostals’ and hotels which usually cost from €30 upwards for a single room with bathroom.

The bathrooms in all the albergue I used were very modern with a good supply of hot water.

Many albergues have lounges and fully functioning kitchens so you can buy food at the local supermarket or tiende / shop and cook a meal. Most albergues in Galicia have a kitchen but no crockery, cutlery or cooking pots. A strange state of affairs in 2022.

Some Albergues provide a meal and/or breakfast but this was not very common on the Via and generally happens only when you are situated some distance from shops and bars. Usually the local bar is open between 7 and 8 am so you can get breakfast there - but check the night before.

Sleeping ranges from rather cramped dorms with bunk beds (not the norm) spacious dorms with bunk beds, dorms with single beds. Sometimes there are options for twin or single rooms and of course that is more expensive. Some come with sheets, blankets and towels, and some with paper sheets which are not too bad these days. That’s where you need your own sleep sheet and sleeping bag.
There is also normal hotel and Casa Rural accomodation which range from €35 - €100+ depending on the level of luxury.

On VDLP I easily found options that fit my budget and needs for that night - which ranged from small donativo albergues all the way up to a standard hotels on occasions when they were the best options.

Buen Camino.Leer más
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Preparing the body
19 de septiembre de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C
These are some of the things I have done to stay fit and healthy in general and that I think helped prepare for the Camino.

Preparing the body for a long walk like the Camino can involve some of the activities you normally do and some others that target specific Camino needs.
You can walk a Camino without doing any preparation so if you don’t have time don’t worry.
However with some preparation the first week to 10 days will be much more pleasant and you won’t have to wait so long to get your trail fitness.

The feet
There is a thing called conditioning the feet. Walking 20 + km a day every day puts demands on your feet above and beyond what you normally do. The following will help
✔️ Walk 5 days a week between 5 km and 20 km if possible
✔️Take time to get the best shoes or boots - and best socks - for you.
✔️ Identify any current feet issues (crossed toes, flat feet etc) and potential issues. A podiatrist can assess the health of your feet and advise on orthotics and shoes
✔️ Walk in bare feet - practice yoga feet (https://youtu.be/ea4MF7IqILA)
✔️ Do some ankle exercises- these will strengthen the muscles in your feet, ankles and legs - https://www.healthline.com/health/sprained-ankl…
✔️ Practice waking with poles. Used effectively they can reduce the weight on feet, ankles, knees and hips by 25% (so I was told). Walking up hill and on the flat use poles in the Nordic Walking fashion. Down hill use like walking sticks to take some of your weight and help with balance.

The body
✔️ One of the best and relatively easy preparations for the body is to take alternating hot and cold showers. After your normal shower alternate 20 seconds hot with 40 seconds cold. Repeat 3-5 or more cycles. (You can start with hot/cool and work up to hot/cold). This stimulates hormesis - where your system can get rid of any body cells that are past their use by date. It also helps the body to be more adaptable to different temperatures and believe it or not switches on the vagus nerve which is your ‘rest and digest’ nerve.
On this Camino the only time I was cold was one night when I didn’t eat enough - and that was cured by dinner. I think this practice also made my whole system stronger and more adaptable when I compare myself to previous Caminos, before I started this practice.

✔️ Good core body strength helps with the backpack.
Walk with your pack a couple of times a week.
Do some exercises to strengthen your core e.g. - https://youtu.be/dGgSI_Js_GY
Do some hip / glute strengthening exercises
✔️ Check out a good body worker- chiropractor, osteopath, massage therapist to identify any particular issues that will impact how you walk or carry you pack.
✔️ Make sure you have your pack fitted for your body and learn how to wear it properly.
✔️ Find a series of stretches that you can do in Camino - and practice before hand. Doing a few targeted stretches during and after your days walking can make a huge difference to how your body feels the next day.

Finally - relax, do what you can and don’t worry about what you can’t do.
The main thing is to start slowly - shorter distances - plenty of breaks - and above all listen to your body. As a teacher of mine said ‘The body know how to take care of itself’.Leer más
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How to ‘Camino’
19 de septiembre de 2022, España ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
‘Everyone walks their own Camino’

How to walk a Camino is just as important as what you pack and the socks and boots you wear. Some Caminos are cut short because pilgrims have not considered this aspect of their pilgrimage.
In fact people who start hard, fast and long are more likely to get blisters and injuries and abandon their Camino in the first days or week.

Here are some hints and tips
1. No matter how fit you think you are start a little slowly to see if you are actually Camino fit
2. It takes about 100 km to work out how far you can comfortably walk and what you need to abandon out of your pack. If you are only walking for a short time - 100 km - take it slowly and mindfully so you can really enjoy your Camino.
3. Think about distances. Your feet and body may be fine at 20 km but bump it up to 25 or 30 km a day and the blisters and injuries arise. Likewise you may be able to do longer distances for a few days but after a week or so the blisters and injuries appear.
4. Plan for rest days or very short days (around two hours) to give your muscles and joints a chance to rest and repair
5. Don’t compare yourself to others. Some can easily walk 35 km a day and enjoy it and love it. Some can walk 15 km per day for the same level of pleasure. No one is right or wrong here - it’s about what works best for the individual.
6. Be prepared to abandon any plan you have made if the Camino demands - planning too many km’s per day or too few, or even the route. Listen to the wisdom of the Camino.
7. Some common injuries are - twisted ankles, shin splints, tendinitis, plantar fasciitis etc
8. Walk your own Camino. Trying to keep up with friends puts you at risk of injury. Slowing down to stay with friends can put pressure on them and gets you out of your own natural rhythm which can be frustrating and also cause injury.
9. Just enjoy!

A personal point of view via a quote from John Muir - American nature pioneer
“Do you know the origin of that word saunter? It's a beautiful word. Away back in the middle ages people used to go on pilgrimages to the Holy Land, and when people in the villages through which they passed asked where they were going they would reply, 'A la sainte terre', 'To the Holy Land.' And so they became known as sainte-terre-ers or saunterers. Now these mountains are our Holy Land, and we ought to saunter through them reverently, not 'hike' through them.”Leer más
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Viajerothank you for including me in your journal of Camino. safe travels home.
30/11/22Responder
ViajeroWas great to have you along. Much appreciated. Home on 2 December in the morning. Looking forward to a catch up. Xx
30/11/22Responder
ViajeroDying to know no 8 !
1/12/22Responder
ViajeroHahaha. 🤪
1/12/22Responder
ViajeroSafe travels Rita !
1/12/22Responder
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Camino Via de la Plata Viajero
Preparation Day #1
20 de septiembre de 2022, España ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C
Well here I am at Triana Backpackers, the traditional accomodation for pilgrims walking the Via de la Plata from Sevilla.
There are lots of people here but so far it seems I am the only one heading for Santiago.
Edit- just met a man who was leaving now - I am not alone.
I am in a women’s dorm with 5 others.
I have had many moments of wondering what I am doing but I guess I will find out. What a great opportunity to experience the current state of my being and to continue all the practices that turn me to serenity and peace.
Here is my current list of gratitudes
1. On the Alhambra tour my knee got a bit sore and one of the girls pulled out a super support bandage for me - and earlier someone was lent me their phone cord to fully charge my phone while on the bus.
2. There was a taxi rank just near my old hostel that I noticed as I got off the tour bus - so I easily collected my bags and got a cab in 5 minutes - after the big Alhambra day AND the cab was a Tesler - first time for me.
3. Even though I arrived after 9 pm I got a bottom bunk!!!
4. There are no snorers in my dorm
5. I slept really well. Only 6+ hours but that will be enough for now.
6. The late revellers and late getting-to-bedders didn’t disturb my equilibrium at all as I lay peacefully on my bed.
After all these blessings how can I even doubt that all will be well on this Camino - and that I will be totally supported through challenges as they arise.Leer más
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Preparation Day #2
21 de septiembre de 2022, España ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C
Shopping.
A 20 min walk to Decathlon for my walking poles - I got the fold up ones for a good price plus a really lightweight top for the initial hot days or nights and a small lightweight crossover bag for my valuables.
Then a 25 min walk (X 2 - I got lost ) to see if I could find a new product I have been using for sleep. And yes!!!! The lovely man did have 5 HTP which is a precursor for melatonin and drops me into a deep sleep. I bought some in the UK to try and was feeling a bit lost at the thought of running out - am down to the last of that lot. Big win - Spain €5. UK £20.
Right now having a pit stop. Figs from the fruit shop and cafe con leche from the adjacent cafe. Yum.

On this day I also wandered into a palace (can't remember which one) built in a combination of Arabic and Christian architectural- obviously built after the expulsion/ conversion of the Moors. I’ve added some photos of the day - plus my fig.Leer más
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Camino Via de la Plata Viajero
Via del la Plata - Day 1 - First 3 km
21 de septiembre de 2022, España ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C
Today morphed into my first Camino day.
I went to the Cathedral to get my credential stamped. The guard was very happy and pleased to do this and wished me Buen Camino. I didn’t actually go into the Cathedral as the line to get in was very long and it was heading towards the afternoon.
I followed my guide book and the Camino signs towards Triana thinking I would stop at the statue of St James where it says 1000 km to Santiago. However I didn’t find the statue and so headed for my hostel in Triana. So I think I have walked the first 2 km of VDLP 😅
What I did find was a tiny Square with a small monument to the Gypsies who used to live in the Triana district. The monument has many short poems written by Gypsies who were expelled during Franco’s time - some happy and some very sad. One poem was translated to me as saying - ‘You can ask me any fact/thing you like, but please never ask me to leave Triana.’
The Square also seems to have something to do with the Spanish Inquisition.
Spain has had such a torturous past both long ago and recently. Yet it seems that a diverse and vibrant culture has emerged that has somehow integrated these events. This is a very superficial reflection. I am interested to read more about Spain.
PS. Sorry about a couple of slightly blurry photos. It was after my now favourite lunch time drink - Tinto de Verano - red wine, orange juice and soda.Leer más
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Day 2 - Santiponce 8.5 km
22 de septiembre de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
Sevilla - Woke up early and finalised my pack so I could send my second bag ahead to Santiago de Compostela.
During the night the mind had a great time figuring out how expensive it would be - thinking about Australian postal costs - €50? €100? €200? There was no stopping that runaway mental train.
What a lovely surprise - 12.5 kg cabin luggage bag cost €26!!!
Left Sevilla at 9.30 am and walked for 2 hours 15 mins to Santiponce. The Way was well marked and easy to follow and I felt gratitude for the people who make sure the Way is well marked for pilgrims. It could also be called the Gratitude Way.
But it was hot and my back pack felt too heavy.
However I got to use my expensive purpose designed sun umbrella and I am soooo glad I have it.
My first Camino challenge was that one of my new fold-up poles didn’t work properly. It kept falling apart. Luckily when I got to the Hostel i could I fix it with a tiny bit of gaffer tape (thank you Camino Forum Rob for putting it in your packing list)
Tonight I am at the lovely Hostel Italica - initially just me: fresh, clean, air con, cooking facilities, free tea and pod coffee and with some quiet jazz playing in the background.
After I have my shower and some lunch I will see what else I can get rid of out of my pack. Wish me luck!
Yesterday I learnt that Santiponce was the first place the Romans settled in this area but then quite quickly moved their settlement to present day Sevilla.
I am looking forward to seeing the Roman ruins, the monastery and the Roman Theatre. .
After rest and shower -
I had a 2 pm lunch at Bodeguita Reyez. I think they have a bullfighting background judging from the decor. Lots of locals having drinks. They did a great large salad and tuna and I added chips as a side. Very satisfactory.
Later in the afternoon a young woman from Russia/Germany arrived. We had a lovely evening sharing different life stories over a simple dinner pulled together with items from the supermarket.
Sight seeing -
The Monastery and large Roman archeological dig were both closed in the afternoon and the Roman Theatre was a bit disappointing.
The weather -
In this part of Spain the temperature just increases all day starting at a cool 17-19 degrees at around 6 am in the morning and climbing to 34 degrees or more by the evening. So no wonder everything was closed.Leer más
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Day 3 - Guillena- 10.5 km
23 de septiembre de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
Left Santiponce at around 7.30 am in the cool of the morning and arrived as Guillena just before 11.00 am.
It was lovely walking in the early morning light with fields of subtle colours as far as the eye can see. I might just be able to walk this Camino.
I felt pretty good and I think I could have walked another 5 km. However the next town is 18 km away so it was time to stop. Yesterday my foot hurt a bit and today it was my shoulder. My Boswellia cream came to the rescue and with some fine tuning of my pack I know it will just get easier
Had planned to stay at Hostel Frances with a private room but came across another Albergue first. However in the south of Spain they leave a phone number on the door and you need to call them. I couldn’t figure out how to do this with my current phone plan. So Hostel Frances it is. I read that they do good food so I don’t have far to go for my late lunch.
Short walk to the supermarket for evening snack and food for the road tomorrow - everything sorted.
Even though this is my third Camino I am still learning how little we really need.
Tomorrow is my first bigger day - 18 km. I’m glad I have my own room tonight so I can just relax and chill out without any distractions. I get a 6.00 am breakfast here so I will be on the road early.
Buen Camino.Leer más
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Viajero Beautiful!
24/9/22Responder
Viajero Good to see you in shot (even if small)
24/9/22Responder
Viajero salmon lasagne!?
25/9/22Responder
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Day 4 - Castilblanco - 18.5 km
24 de septiembre de 2022, España ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
Breakfast at 6.15 am - Cafe con leche and toast
Left around 6.30 in the dark. I had planned to leave a little earlier but luckily I didn’t. Just on the edge of town I met two other peregrinos with a headlamp so I could follow them and not use up my phone battery.
The initial walk along a main road was tricky so I was incredibly grateful to have these two guides - Camino Angels.
All the people I have met so far are Spanish with little or no English. One of my fellow walkers was very talkative so I taught him some English words and he taught me some Spanish. He was a fan of Uriah Heap.
Most of the day we walked through the rural areas and it was slightly up hill all the way - I was pretty tired by the end. I walked with Juan and Tomas for about 10 km and then stopped for a break as they went off ahead.
About 3 km along I slightly turned my left ankle - the one I sprained 3 years ago. I guess it still isn’t as strong as I imagined. But it was not too bad and with my poles and concentration I finished the mornings walk.
Of course I left my ankle strap behind thinking that my ankle was good now. Haha. Good thing we are walking from town to town and I can get anything I need - next stop Farmacia for an ankle bandage.
Oops. Farmacia closed at 2 pm
So for tomorrow I decided to take a taxi half way - to the National Park which is then a flat walk - get my pack sent ahead- and walk the last 12 km in the Park with my day pack. Have drugs and cream and a pressure sock so hopefully that will be enough.
And as I returned to the albergue I was invited to share a taxi in exactly this way. Blessings abound. And the English speaking host at the albergue booked my next accomodation and arranged for the taxi to take my bag ahead. How blessed am I.
There is an Australian (Wollongong) couple here today, a young man from Switzerland and the rest Spanish.
All is good. I feel safe and protected in all ways.
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Viajero Wonderful sunset....
4/10/22Responder
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Day 5 - Almadén - taxi 16 km: walk 12 km
25 de septiembre de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
Not a great nights sleep - it took a long time to go to sleep and a scratchy throat kept waking me up. Was it the water - which tastes a bit heavy in minerals and feels astringent - or something else?
Anyway had a nice chat with Martin over breakfast and discovered todays walk in the Parque - literally- is not flat but has a 540 metre climb right at the end.
The morning was lovely and cool and the taxi took us to the gates of Parque National Sierra Norte.
The initial section is flat and filled with cork trees in full production. Of course I didn’t take much notice of the second part of the Parque’s name - Sierra Norte - which means northern highlands. It wasn’t till I saw a profile map of this stage at breakfast that I realised I was in for a big ending - I called today the Pyrenees of the South. Haha
While at times it was a very challenging day we saw deer, a small lake, dried river beds, cork trees and had a tree covered mountain (with a view) to climb before we got to the lovely white town of Almadén.

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ViajeroLove the early morning light xx
25/9/22Responder
Viajero❤️
26/9/22Responder
ViajeroGood to see Love, Shreekari
25/9/22Responder
ViajeroI called a couple of times but you weren’t home. Will try again soon ❤️
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Day 6 - El Real de la Jara - 14 km
26 de septiembre de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
Oh what a night…..
The scratchy throat bothered me all afternoon and evening. I really was not feeling well. Then I remembered the little lolly shop just down the road which was open in the afternoon for the kids.
Remember Spain has a solid siesta anywhere from 2 - 6 pm and nowhere else was open. So I went down and with the help of the lovely lady proprietor found some throat lozenges.
They were a great help. A while later my eyes started streaming. That’s when I realised this was an allergy and not a bug, so I dived into my antihistamines (sleepy ones) and finally had a pretty good nights sleep.
Feeling better this morning though still not 100%. It’s only 13 km today and the weather is significantly cooler so I can have a bit of a lie in. There was only one other person at this albergue, Martin from Switzerland, and he left early for his 34 km day. There are around 9 pilgrims per day at the moment. So I am not alone but can have my alone time as needed.
Today was really sweet. I walked with a man from Italy who, when he was a boy, had been traumatised by a dog. And there were plenty of dogs today so he stuck close to me. I also walked with the Italian couple again. They are older and go at my pace.
This route today took us off road through a number of farms with plenty of dogs, pigs, and goats for meat and milk.
I also passed my first shrine - to Mother Mary. I spent a few quite moments with her and felt the deep stillness and peace that is really everywhere but seemingly easier to connect to in such places.
I feel very much at home in Spain even though I hardly understand a thing. People are generally kind and patient although sometimes look at me like I am an idiot - and I don’t blame them. I am practicing my Spanish every night and am getting a little better.
After we arrived at El Real and found our accommodation, my three walking companions and I had a great mid afternoon lunch. My Italian friend has a bit of English so he could translate - and I have Google.
There is an old castle from the Middle Ages on the hill overlooking El Real. I walked up there for a good view of the surrounding countryside. Except for the types of trees I could be in Australia.
The sunrises and sunsets have been spectacular and the light has its own special glow.
Buen Camino.Leer más
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Viajero Yes I can see what you mean .. very Oz-like xx
27/9/22Responder
Viajero😊
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Monestario de Tentudia
27 de septiembre de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
Some more pics
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Day 7 - Monestario - 20 Km
27 de septiembre de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
We walked out of Andelusia and crossed into Extremadora this morning. There was a great castle from the middle ages right on the border. Beautiful.
And today started with another surprise. My camel back leaked most of its water through my pack and down my back. I saved some and hoped I had enough for the day. The bonus was that my pack was suddenly much lighter and the walking easier. Anyway I eventually forgot about water and thirst - took little frequent sips, ate my mandarin and had a heathy morning tea of canned octopus in oil and bread.
Imagine my surprise when my companions said there should be (a previously undisclosed) cafe at the 10 km mark. I got my cafe con leche which I missed this morning- and a water top up. Phew.
Monesterio is the Jamon capital of Spain. There is even a Jamon Museum. Jamon is like prosciutto but is from the back leg of the pig. The Jamon from this part of Spain is particularly flavoursome because the pigs are free range and eat the acorns from the cork oaks. It is very expensive- hence €6 for a Jamon bocadillo. The Jamon negro is the most sought after at €16+ per kilo when buying the whole leg.
So I saw many happy piggies in the fields as I walked today though they are eventually destined for consumption. Poor piggies.
Our little group scored a great hostel for tonight - single room for €12.
We finished the day with a taxi ride to the Monestario de Tentudia - again built in the Middle Ages during the war between the Catholic monarchs of northern Spain and the ‘Muslim troops’. 😢
It’s on the highest hill/mountain in the area. Apparently on a clear day you can see Seville.
Just waiting to go out to have some dinner.
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Day 8 - Calzadilla - 20 km / taxi 6 km
28 de septiembre de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C
Extremadura - a day of rolling wheat fields: some recently harvested and some already plowed ready for winter sowing.
I think today was the easiest longer distance so far. No mountains to climb, cooler weather - but still that last 5 km seems like the previous 15 put together.
I am feeling much better - ankle has nearly recovered and should be OK, as long as it doesn’t twist again (it is weaker and more prone to giving way) and my throat seems to have consolidated into something more like a head cold, and the body is slowly getting stronger - all in all not too bad
I am the slowest in my small group and I think they take it in turns to wait for me. They are so kind. We also met Max from Canada who started in Sevilla a bit after me - a young man who caught up with us oldies. 🤣🤣🤣
I might have already mentioned that the Spanish couple are 67 and the Italian man is 51.
Our 20 km took us to Fuente but accomodation there is very expensive so we took a taxi 6 km to the next town and we are in a lovely Albergue beside the church. This will also make tomorrow’s stage only 16 km.
A lady came and opened the church at 6 pm and I am sitting here writing my blog.
I notice that since we entered Extremadura there are a lot more signs of Christianity than in Andelusia. Given that Andelusia was the last Moorish stronghold in that terrible war I can understand the general antipathy towards Christianity. I was pretty distressed myself with the actions of the Christian army and I was just a visitor.
However true spirituality manifests as Love no matter what the outer ‘covering’ and given this is a Christian pilgrimage route I am happy to see the Christian churches open and more wayside shrines.
The two churches I have been in so far all honour Mother Mary (Ave Maria) with a very gentle and lovely energy.
It feels very nice sitting here - safe and calm. An older couple just arrived and I hope they don’t take offence at my writing the blog.
The time and energy that goes into creating all the sacred objects and statues is amazing - but it is certainly one way to keep the mind and heart on the higher virtues and on the Divine.
Maybe this is why I am and many others walk the Camino de Santiago- to connect to that stream of Love that is the essence of all paths and faiths.Leer más
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ViajeroYour last sentence is so good..... Love is ewery where !
4/10/22Responder
Viajero❤️
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The Church in Calzadilla de los Barros
28 de septiembre de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
It’s so peaceful in here I just can’t leave.
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Day 9 - Zafra 17.5 km
29 de septiembre de 2022, España ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C
The day started with a spectacular sunrise and a brisk walk to the local restaurant for cafe con leche.
Today we moved from wheat fields to olive trees, grapes, melons - more diverse framing. The walk was relatively flat and easy, and I am feeling stronger and more present.
However …. Now I have a small blister on one toe. 😂🤣😅
I had a blessing in a small town just before I got to Zafra. The local church was open - two women were there doing the cleaning etc. I got a stamp on my Credential and was able to sit for a while. The churches have many figures of Jesus, Mary and other saints, which are incredibly ornate, all around the walls. Beautiful.
There is a fiesta in Zamora over the next few days; in actual fact the annual agricultural fair with all the trimmings we would expect at home. It means the town is full and busy.
Tomorrow I will walk 4 km only to the next small town and have a rest day to give my feet and body a chance to catch up with itself.Leer más
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Viajero omg!!!
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Day 10 - Summary: walk 126 km - taxi 22
30 de septiembre de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C
When I informed our Albergue hosts that I would do a short 4 km walk to the next town today, (all private accommodation is booked out in Zafra due to the fiesta) they kindly invited me to stay another night. On Camino Frances you can only stay one night in a Municipal Albergue, unless you have a doctors note. This Camino is much harder - dare I say brutal - but with not so many pilgrims I guess the albergue rules can be more flexible. So a much needed rest day in Zafra.
I have had a few long chats with Clare, one of the hospitalaros, and she said it’s not so much the distances on VDLP but the fact that there are no towns or services in between stages - so one tends to just motor on. And you need to carry food and additional water.
I notice that I have not taken as many breaks - even just sitting by the side of the road - as I might have in the past. This was due partly to the fact that there were no villages in which to stop and partly because the group I have been loosely attached to walked faster and longer than I would normally do. They have looked out for me which has been fabulous but they also waited for me to catch up. So I guess I have been pulled to walk faster than I might when on my own.
Anyway our little party has broken up. Ino and Balbi are taking the train back to Sevilla and Jocamo is taking a train or bus to Cáceres and then will move to Camino Portuguese. He doesn’t like this Camino. 😂
Well, truth be told, nor do I at the moment. But I am the type of person who likes to finish what she started. And I know the liking and disliking are not the truth.
On reflecting on the last 10 days I can see that I need to take more breaks wherever I am, practice gratitude and appreciation for what is, know that the body is getting stronger every day and it will feel easier as the weeks go by and stay in the day - one day, one hour, one step at a time. After all there is only the day I am in.
I just worked out that I am averaging 14 km a day - not so shabby in these early stages carrying my pack. Hooray for me 🥳🥳🥳
Pics are from walking around the streets of Zafra last night.Leer más
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Viajerohooray for you for sure!
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One day in Zafra - Fiesta
30 de septiembre de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C
NOTE: Animals were harmed in this post!!! Vegetarians beware.
It’s fiesta in Zafra - actually the agricultural show. I was expecting a small local event but this is like the Royal Easter Show. Not quite as big but still pretty huge - maybe the annual agricultural show for all of Extremadura.
I had a wander around the animal exhibits and felt sorry for the cattle and sheep. I am not sure what was happening to the pigs but it seems their pavilion was closed this morning and there was a lot of squealing at one point. Perhaps judging time.
I am sitting watching the horses go through their paces. I suspect the first one might win - she is very talented. - but her handler didn’t seem very nice. I think they get points for the horse and handler and it’s all a bit different from what we are used to. I am sure they are reading out the scores but it’s all Spanish to me. 🤣
I stopped by the open air food BBQ area - paella, pulpo (octopus), chicken, and every type of meat you can imagine plus chips and veges all cooked in the open air in huge pans over hot coals. Very expensive but the best pulpo I have eaten since Portugal.
In Spain there does not seem to be such a huge gap as their is in Sydney town, between the living animal and the eating of that animal, .
Spent the afternoon sorting out paperwork- yes it still appears on Camino - and resting up for tomorrow.
PS. One of the most interesting sights in Zafra are the rocky cliffs you can see in the distance from various parts of town.Leer más
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ViajeroFascinating
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Day 11 - Villafranca- 20 km
1 de octubre de 2022, España ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C
‘Walk your own Camino’
This is the saying and advice given over and over again and it is amazing how often we forget for ourselves and judge others when their way is different.
It seems I have hit an ‘empty day’ - I was the only walker at the albergue last night (4 others were on bikes) and have only seen one other walker today.
This means it is so much easier to stroll at my own pace, stop when I feel like it and start again when I am ready. Right now I am sitting by the side of a small dirt roadway amongst the olive groves. I can hear distant traffic, birds tweeting, the sound of the wind in the trees and the buzz of the occasional insect. So peaceful.
My favourite little town so far - Los Santos de Maimona - appeared 4 km from todays starting point and I had a delicious cafe con leche and toast - served by a smiling and happy young woman. A few men were out walking their dogs and stopping for coffee or a chat with each other. I received many ‘Buenos dias’ and smiles as I followed the huge yellow arrows painted in the street. The town has such a lovely atmosphere. I imagined a close knit community, not far from the action in Zafra, but very much away from the hustle and bustle.
Afternoon - I have had a lovely day only to find the albergue in Villafranca closed and all other accommodation booked out because of the agricultural show in Zafra.
Was suggested that I take a bus to Merida but with the help of some young people I got a bed in the next town and headed for the bus stop.
More help from some English speakers but I missed taking the next bus because I thought it went to Sevilla. So now waiting another 90 mins for the next bus. Aaahhhggh!!!!
I wondered if I would end up having to sleep at the bus stop. Worse things have happened.
A real lesson in patience and an opportunity to practice calm and trust. And also learning that problems will be solved when they are solved and not a moment sooner.
Good news - there is a power point at the bus station so I could charge my phone.Leer más
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Viajero What a lovely spot for breakfast. And is that blue pack all you carry?
3/10/22Responder
ViajeroYes. One change of clothes. Plus long sleeve merino top plus light fleece and rain jacket for when it gets colder and wet. Lightweight sleeping bag and sleep sheet. Toiletries. Sandals. Other bits and pieces. Add water and food. I think my pack is between 6.5 kg and 7.5 kg depending on water and food. And that’s plenty for me. It’s amazing how quickly you get rid of of stuff when you have to carry it for 20 km
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Viajero amayzing!
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Day 12 - An unexpected day in Mérida
1 de octubre de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
Well!!!! Last night….
When the bus finally came it didn’t stop in the town I wanted (Torremejia) - where the young person had called ahead for me and organised a €10 bed. It stopped at the town before - Almendralejo - which had relatively expensive accommodation and was apparently all booked out according to Booking.com….. and then went straight to Mérida.
Well who am I to argue with God’s plan - so off to Mérida I went.
Arrived at 7.00 pm only to discover the Albergue closed till tomorrow (family problems) and Mérida completely booked out. Stunned is one way to describe how that felt - at 8 pm.
Today I saw there was some sort of big running event on so between that and regular weekend tourists the place was full.
Now I need to add that the other day I saw a Camino post from a man who couldn’t find any accommodation on the last stages of Camino Frances and had to take a bus to Santiago (for a bed) and then take a bus back the next morning to complete the walk so he could get his Compostela. Can I admit to judgmental thoughts about this man. So of course I end up in a similar situation - another lesson in humility.
After checking a number of hostels on Booking.com I think I got the last bed in Mérida. Problem solved - except it was €80. By that time is was after 8 pm and I had started my search for a bed at 2.30 pm - so I booked two nights (night two a mere €35). I could have tried the Albergue for night two but that just felt too hard.
I was obviously supposed to see Mérida (sooner than expected) and by the time I walked to my accomodation I was exhausted. Even at the end I needed the help of two young boys happy to practice their English. They showed me I only had to go around the corner to find the entrance to Hostel Milagro.
My learning from all this -
1. Plan ahead at least for the next day and ask your host to call ahead for you to confirm Albergues are open.
2. Be extra careful on weekends in big towns that attract tourists and might also have something on.

PS - Woke in the morning with a number of ‘should haves’ and ‘what if’s’ going on - but after listening to some sacred mantras and texts (SGG) it all all fell away and only gentle cohesion remained.Leer más
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Mérida -Rome in ruins amongst flowers
2 de octubre de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
What a lovely peaceful day in Mérida.
Sunday meant not too many people up and about. Highlights….
My Hostel Milagro - meaning ‘miracle’ in Spanish, named after the nearby Milagro Aquaduct is near a large park, close enough to the Roman artefacts, and beside a cluster of older apartment buildings (public housing?) with cheaper bars at which to eat - and the only shop open on Sunday night where I could get something to eat to take with me on the road tomorrow.
Searched out all the main Roman ruins and saw all the free stuff. There is a hearty bushy fence around the main theatre complex but kind people have made gaps to see through. It is really affordable at €16 entry but I was not interested in spending that much time there.
I did enjoy a good look at a very old ice house / sauna. I’m still not sure how those two activities could occupy the same building.
Saw more flowers today than in all my Camino days so far.
Stopped in a small church and fell into meditation. Then remembered that yesterday was my mothers birthday and today was Dad’s death day and Mum’s funeral. Had time to reflect on them both and connect with their love for me and my love for them.
Lay in the grass under a hibiscus bush.
Had a great lunch - €12
Asked reception to ring ahead for me for tomorrow night
Lay on my bed at peace.

And of course it’s Baba Muktananda’s Solar Mahasamadhi. ❤️🌈🥰🎉Leer más
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Day 13 - Aljucén - 17 km
3 de octubre de 2022 ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C
Highlights ….
Once out of Mérida the way was not very well marked for a few km. But I met up with Max of a few days ago and followed him to the green bike path where he seemingly zoomed ahead. There was another dirt turn off about 9-10 Km out that was not marked but I realised I had gone past when all of a sudden the sun was in the wrong place. I have an online map that I can check so I got back on track very quickly.
Walked 17 km (with pack) and am not wrecked - might even be ready for the hills in the final stages of this Camino -which I think I can see in the far far distance.
An easy day of gently undulating lightly forested land, and grapes being harvested .
There is a Roman built Lake Proserpina about 4 km out of Mérida that sent water to the Milagro Aqueduct in Mérida all those centuries ago. I walked across the 2000 year old dam wall. Amazing construction.
A bit later cows that look like bulls and rams that look ewes. I never knew that rams could have such huge low slung testicles.
Finally arriving at the cutest town of Aljucén with lots of Camino signage and a great old church dedicated to St Andrew. The only down side was that the church was built to celebrate the expulsion of the Moors. ☹️
Tomorrow I walk 19 km.
Buen Camino
PS just worked out I am averaging 15 km per day which includes the 56 km by bus and taxi. Not too bad for an old codger.
Accommodation
Albergue san Andres (associated with the church)Leer más
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ViajeroRudīt, TU ESI MALACIS! You are amazing!
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ViajeroJolanta it is very very hard but getting a little easier every day.
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Day 14 - Alcuéscar 19.1 km
4 de octubre de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C
Very hot very tough day - so thankful for my umbrella as the last 7 km were without shade and the temperature got to the low 30’s.
I met a man from Brittany, Serge, and I walked with him at the end. It made it much easier. And then he paid for lunch. Too kind.
This is Serge’s second time on this Camino. Last time he did it in spring. He showed me some photos and it was so green and full of flowers - and full of pilgrims. Very different from Autumn.
We are staying at Casa de Acogida de los Esclavos de María y de los Pobres. It is actually a hospital ‘for people who require special care’ run by a religious order. They also provide accommodation for pilgrims by donation. It is beautifully calm and peaceful and the hospitalaro is very kind and helpful.
Because there are not so many pilgrims at this time of year I have had a room / dorm to myself quite a few times. A blessing of this autumn Camino.
And Fiesta continues. Apparently 4 October is a religious celebration in the Catholic tradition. So there is a fun fair here tonight. With all the lights and rides and food. I can hear the music and noise from my bed. I was remembering how exciting the Show was when I was young and it is fun watching the children and young people enjoying the excitement of it all.
But it feels so peaceful here - I am sure as soon as I shut my window I will easily drift off to sleep regardless of the noise. Oh and the church bell just above me goes off every 15 minutes. Haha. I am surprised that none of this seems to bother me. Right now I feel a happiness within. Maybe the Camino is doing its work on me.
PS Just discovered the window is double glazed and sound proof - this truely is a blessed place.Leer más
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