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  • TravelerLa Vida Colorida
    Day 470

    El Chalten

    February 14, 2020 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Day 471

    We arrived in El Chalten and I was quick to pay the price for becoming slightly over excited with the mountain views when the wind wasted no time in nearly removing my door from the car. As it stands I can no longer exit via the drivers door - but remaining positive, we made it here safe and ready for some trekking!

    On the advice from the tourist office we would trek tomorrow before the unsafe winds rolled on in, which meant we needed a hearty meal this evening. Delicious cheesey mash, fried onion and sausage was on the menu as we continue to get more extravagant with our limited outdoor cooking facilities and constant battle with the wind.

    Woke at sunrise to clear skies and so wasted no time in shooting off, in fact slightly earlier than advised which it turns out we would most definitely pay the price for. Battled one of the hardest climbs yet but it was certainly the most picturesque trek to date. Reached the peak and quickly realised we had changed climates altogether - it was now snowing and the would be calm glacial lake had formed waves as high as me due to the onslaught of wind. Took shelter behind a rock and tucked into our snow sprinkled sarnies.

    Held out in the cold for 30 minutes hoping clouds would clear, brought limbster to the edge of frostbite before I relented (it was valentines day after all!) and we ran back down the face of the mountain. As if by magic the second we made it down the steep climb the clouds cleared and the peaks couldn't have been clearer - absolutely gutted. But silver lining meant incredible views the entire trek back - and we couldn't get enough of old Mt Fitzroy in all its glory.

    Slight panic re Jengibre after thinking lights had been left on - couldn't have been more relieved when this wasn't the case upon arrival. Oh yeah we named the van Jengibre, it seemed the most logical fit.

    Splashed out on the luxury of a piping hot shower at a local hostel, real treat to celebrate our success and we certainly made the most of that scolding hot water. Wasted away our afternoon sipping on patagonian beer and admiring the cheeky armadillo running mayham all around our camper. Another new animal for limbster who was very much caught off guard by this large unknown shelled animal scuppering around her shoes.

    When the winds rolled in we headed for the only sensible place, the local chocolateria in a proper mountain cabin. Fresh hot chocolate and plenty of samples to waste away the cold day. Planned another big trek for the following morning, questioning whether we're crazy and hoping the fitness can hold up.

    With the sun out and fulls views of Fitzroy giving us the thumbs up the following morning we shot up the first 8km of the trek, avoiding over protective cows and clambering through foot thick snow, not the t rexs of course - they avoided snow at all and any cost, frost bite would actually be a reality if not. Incredible views at top and whole 360 degrees to ourself. Consoled after feeling slightly unlucky yesterday and now both on top of the world. This was at least for 5 minutes until the ice cold wind came from nowhere and limbster instantly froze, at least she got to eat lunch first.

    A few hand rubs later and circulation was back, we headed back down through the snow and into the forest. Restocked on vino in town upon arrival, feeling like we had well and truly smashed El Chalten even if we are totally wiped out!

    Tomorrow we head north, and just a little at that - 700km of pure patagonia driving...    Read more

  • TravelerLa Vida Colorida
    Day 469

    El Calafate, Argentina

    February 13, 2020 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Day 469.

    After expecting a very thorough search of the camper as we passed across the Argentinan border we were pleasantly surprised when we were simply waved across, no inspection necessary into Argentinian patagonia! Granted Limbsters casual obliviousness tried to over confuse matters by assuming everyone and everybody was the help, but we got there in the end.

    Fortunately for us Argentina have invested in the one road which connects the mountain towns in this part of the world, which meant a paved road for us - all the way to El Calafate, an absolute treat. Only incident was during Limbsters turn at the wheel when she kindly offered to give me a well needed rest, forgetting to watch out for those pesky ostriches - in all fairness it was only 4 foot tall..

    It was 200km after crossing the border line of pure nothingness, only mountains, rivers, the odd game of spot it and plenty of sing alongs to maintain our attention on the empty roads. The first sign of life in terms of a gas station was well welcomed. WiFi, great empanadas and coca cola all on the menu!

    After not long we arrived into El Calafate, a town nestled into the mountain side, full of trekking stores, souvy shops and plenty of gourmet resturants. Although baffling prices here seem great, cash is king and you might as well throw the Google fx rate out the window - still don't understand it after a heated discussion with limbster, but we put our differences aside and headed out to enjoy ourselves.

    Spitroast patagonian lamb is famous here so we picked a nice resturant and dived right in, arguably a tad more than necessary. Free from the confines of cooking out the back of a camper we enjoyed table service and malbec on tap, a life we could certainly get used too. Our over indulgence however was much to the benefit of a local street dog later than evening, this was after being swiftly rejected by an evidently already well fed street companion.

    The over consumption of the local wine meant we would be parking up and sleeping in town tonight, it was loud and bright but we certainly didnt regret it, and we were quick to pass out - at least one of us anyway!

    Up bright an early to beat the crowds and tourbuses to the Moreno glacier - the real attraction of this town. Still half asleep we clambered into the front seats and headed off at sunrise. The drive was beautiful but nothing on what the glacier had in store for us. As planned we arrived first and managed to have the entire glacier to ourselves - we had nailed it.

    Totally blown away by the size of the glacier, including popping back up to the van for scrambled eggs we stayed a good 5 hours here - totally in awe at the retreating ice. Spent the morning trying to spot huge falling blocks of ice - totally unpredictable but regularly breaking away from this 70ft giant. Took one video and captured the biggest break of the day - absolutely chuffed.

    Before heading off treated ourselves to a local liqueur - with glacial ice of course, freshly carved off some fallen glacier, with the wine headache still looming from the night before this was difficult to swallow - but how could we say no to glacier ice!!!

    As the clouds swooped in we made our way down to Lago roca, a scramble back down gravel roads - finally reaching camp with a perfect view of the surrounding glaciers. Wasted no time in catching an afternoon nap before watching the sun come down. The ice seems to have brought chilly weather and its the first time we've cracked out the wooly hats and gloves to make dinner - wonder if this will be a theme for Argentina as we head further into the mountains...    Read more

  • TravelerLa Vida Colorida
    Day 466

    Torres Del Paine

    February 10, 2020 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Day 466.

    Sliding open the van door to blue skies, absolute silence and these views after a cosy first night's sleep was exactly how I want to start every morning. Enjoyed breakfast and coffee in bed (courtesy of me) before hitting the road.

    Today it was the big one - Torres Del Paine. The most famous patagonia national park, epic mountain range and our next destination! Quickly realised that yesterday's driving views were nothing in contrast - in fact they were just the start. Driving towards TDP was incredible, admittedly I've gotten slightly carried away with roadside photo stops, but the views seem to get better with every turn.

    Speed is slow and therefore our pre researched Google map driving times are right out of the window already. On gravel roads 40kmph is our max - but better than a flat tyre early on! Stopped for fuel at the last gas station for a while, after entering the park the closest one would be just 200km away!

    Great lunch spot at viewpoint on route to TDP, admittedly it wasn't the spot we were aiming for and maybe the steep gravel cliff should have been a good indicator of that but nonetheless we had it all to ourselves and I'm sure our map reading will improve with time..

    Once in the huge park we wasted no time in heading to glacier grey. Quick to be blown away by the huge icebergs floating in the lake, long broken away from the tip of the melting glacier. Swam in (it was too tempting not too) in an attempt to naughtily break off some ice of our own, retrieved a pathetically small amount and left with some very cold legs.

    Definitely lost one of our nine lives here after handbrake incident, only can laugh for now and be more careful in future. The camper clearly likes us and is ploughing on like a trooper. Even limbster took it for a spin so I could clamber out of the window for some drive by shots. Admittedly it was a little scary - limbster driving that is not me hanging out of the window! Can't wipe the smiles off our faces, driving around the park with the freedom of the camper is our perfect combination.

    Park is full of viewpoints at every turn, couldn't resist stopping at each turquoise lake we passed, eventually settling on one for our first dinner in the park. Whipped up a Chorizo and chickpea feast, would need thr energy for the next day - our first 20km trek to the Peak of TDP, it was going to be a challenge for sure so we took it easy on the vino tinto.

    Up at dawn and mesmerised by the colour of the sun on the peaks of torres del paine. Headed up early to beat the arrival of any tours (a big bonus of the van). Limbster decided she didn't need her new wind jacket, or in fact her trekking pole which she wasted no time in getting rid of. A poorly fastened pole, a bridge and a fast flowing river is a terrible combination - and all in the first 5 minutes as well!

    It was a big trek and tested our fitness but we reached the top in 4 hours, traversing forests, rivers and a steep rocky ascent. Cheese and peanut sarnies to celebrate along with an epic photo or two of the torres. It's hard to beleive we'd been admiring these so far away in the distance and now we were up right inside. We quickly collapsed into the camper once we reached the bottom, and just about mustled up the energy to whip up a much needed hot chocolate before resting those sore feet.

    We headed off to find a new spot for night two in the park. Experienced a small snippet of that patagonian wind this evening too as were left quickly chasing after tea towels and our printed travel plans. Thank god the winds aren't their usual level or I fear we'd have no chance.

    Woke early to blue skies, not a cloud in sight and headed out on a morning stroll right from camp. First one's on the trail and the best views we've had yet. The glacier rivers here are crystal clear and the rainbow filled waterfalls nothing short of incredible. Saw our first ice avalanche and it was hard to tear limbster away from the mirador at the end, but our final stop in the park was calling.

    Designed our own DIY gopro extending pole, a genious patagonia special with some string and a bit of old wood, perfect for shooting us in the van whilst moving albeit risky. Passed huge herds of guanacos on route to laguna Azul, can't get enough of these friendly camera loving animals.

    This mornings waterfall was quickly out shone when we stopped at a huge collection of cascades a few hours later, getting splashed from 50 foot up was exactly what we needed in the roaring sun. Too good not to stop here for lunch and a cheeky Flor de Cana...

    Final night stop was just what we needed, watching sunset over the mountains in our pj's (and Xmas socks) was a perfect way to round off three days here. That plus there were hot showers - an absulte luxury and limbster was in her element. Slight misunderstanding in spanish meant we didn't get to cook in the local kitchen but the boot of the van would do us just fine.

    Concerned by tomorrow's inspection at the Argentinian border we tried to finish off all perishables, including the box of red wine and the peanut butter. Limbsters taken to the Chilean wine like a fish and wasted no time finishing off the first box, leaving me to tackle the peanut butter and the rum - and happily so.

    Tomorrow we cross into Argentina - a cool 300km drive. Here's hoping its not all gravel!    Read more

  • TravelerLa Vida Colorida
    Day 463

    Punta Arenas (Camper Collection Day!)

    February 7, 2020 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Day 463.

    Arrived into Punta Arenas, a town so far away from normal civilization its nearly at the southern tip of the world. Things are simple this far down south too - one road and one alone connects thousands upon thousands of kilometres.

    We were however still very skeptical about the campervan owner whom we would be renting from - so far he'd shared only a few whatsapps, given no information whatsoever and actually would be 3000km away when we came to collect said camper.

    Fortunately the camper did exist, and as it swung around the corner of this seaside town we couldn't have been more excited to see our home for the next 3 weeks. Compact yes, but a beauty nonetheless.

    It was a painful two hours, this is missing, this is broken, paperwork etc etc but all in all a success and we left keys in hand, and with massive smiles on our faces at that. Hit up our first supply run (mainly chiliean wine, rum and cheese) and made sure to stock up on plenty of extra gas - who knows when we are likely to see another gas station (this would come in very useful just a few days later...).

    Need to adjust to the height difference vs a normal car as we wasted no time ploughing into the entry barrier at the local supermarket - if we make it 3000km north with this van in one piece it will be a miracle.

    Geared up and ready to hit the road limbster tours sprang back into action from months in hibernation, but she was back with a bang. First stop was just out of town on a quiet road - a place rumoured to be great for dolphin spotting. And she wasn't wrong, pulled up and spent the first 30 minutes of our journey watching dozens of wild dolphins splash around from the seat of our car and all to ourself - so far so good.

    It turns out it certainly wouldn't be our first snippet of Patagonian wildlife on our 4 hour journey to our first destination - stopping off for flamingoes, eagles, ostriches and plenty of llamas - all in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by mountains and without another person in sight. We liked it here already. Luck was on our side it seemed and even though we had been expecting the typical crazy patagonian weather we had pure sunshine, actual shorts and t shirt weather and we couldn't quite believe it!

    We quickly learned that summer here means long days - and super long at that. Sun rises at 6.30 and its light until 10.30, a cool 16 hours of sunlight a day - a campers dream.

    Our first wild camping spot was like a picturesque patagonia post card (much to Limbsters relief) , crystal clear lakes, snow capped peaks and a sunset to top it off! Paved roads were quickly forgotten and uneven gravel would become the norm, it was no exception in finding this little gem of a spot - but it was worth every bit of extra effort.

    Backed the van up right to the lake and set up for our first dinner, burritos, wine and plenty of melted marshmallows whilst we watched the sun drop behind the mountains - safe to say its already been worth the journey. Slightly worried we've set the bar high with this first night camp however, can the views get any better......

    Amazed to say Limbster hasn't been cold once yet, plenty of duvets at night and warm weather has surprised us both - praying for more of the same!    Read more

  • TravelerLa Vida Colorida
    Day 460

    Santiago, Chile

    February 4, 2020 in Chile ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    Day 460.

    After a few hours sleep in the airport we made the journey across town to our first hostel in South America. After all this time we had finally made it to our ultimate destination!

    Some debate over where to choose a hostel, safe to say I didn't smash the booking (ruining the rare chance I had at influencing accomodation selection going forward). Our box room with the bunk beds instead of a spacious private wasn't actually the worst part - selecting a location smack bang in the middle of the riots probably was. And it didn't take long to get stuck right in the middle of them too - the tear gas was an added extra, albeit an unoptional one and boy did it burn!!

    Once the crowds (and gas) died down we built up the confidence to venture back out to see this city at night. Like kids in a candy shop here - top notch food from around the world for bargain prices. Therefore determined to try it all we dived in to Indians, Chiliean hog roasts, pad thais, giant empanadas- you name it, its here and incredible. It seems the excitement has gone to our head and we may have got carried away slightly - every night is date night now. Due to the large selection of food we didn't get to sample the numerous fried chicken and chips from a trolley stalls - they'll have to wait until next time.

    Went to the history of Chile human rights museum - Spanish has slipped so didn't understand a thing. Spent the saved time trawling thrift shops (like we need more things..) absolute gold mine for me - 4 new jazzy shirts, like my xmas and birthday all come at once.

    Santiago for us was all about pre patagonia planning and less on sightseeing. Therefore we didn't waste any time hunting down a decathlon to stock up on all much needed trekking supplies. Two hours later and our bank accounts a lot lighter we had everything we needed. Limbster is now an offical representative of decathlon too and decked head to toe accordingly.

    Final night before venturing into the biggest wilderness on earth, so we had to try the local infamous Torremoto (or earthquake in English) - a cocktail found at a local Mariachi style bar nearby. It goes something like this (as I recall) a pint of warm white wine, a large helping of pineapple sorbet topped with melon liqeur - all mixed in there together. Safe to say limbsters eyes were gone half way through her first cup. Managed to make it back to the hostel without keeling over - success I would say.    Read more

  • TravelerLa Vida Colorida
    Day 457

    Cahuita

    February 1, 2020 in Costa Rica ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Day 457.

    For the first time on this adventure we had made it to the carribean sea (a first for me at least!). Feeling fresh and excited to explore on the back of the workaway we had arrived by bus to Cahuita - and the carribean influence was quickly apparent!

    Suddenly, the likeness in people to the western world disappeared, and the rasta like vibe of the carribean was all around us - and we loved it. Brightly coloured wooden houses, rice N beans and porches perched right on the idylic carribean sea made it even more special.

    Before setting out to explore however we needed to get some admin done - more specifically we are flying to Patagonia in 3 days time, the world's biggest wilderness and have completed all of zero research. Stocked up on rare treats after the river - wine and beer to be specific and dived right into a sesh of blogs, trail maps and YouTube videos on how to change a tyre, a skill that embarrasingly we should have aquired a long time ago.

    Reseach complete we ventured into one of Costa Ricas national parks just next door. This really was like stepping into jurassic Park, swarming with wildlife, thick jungle trails leading to empty palm tree lined beaches - paradise. Being first into the huge park meant we had the place to ourselves - this also had its disadvantages - most crucially being that there was nobody to forewarn us regarding the poisonous snakes lying in wait of our trail!

    Top tip for the future - once dodging danger once don't go proviking the parks most dangerous illuminous yellow snake with a stick (correct term being the yellow eyelash pit viper) - its never worth the photo.

    It wasn't all danger however - and entertainment was plentiful, crab eating raccoons being a real highlight. Not sure Ellie knew what a racoon was before her first sighting. And was certainly perplexed to see one digging through a coconut when we turned the corner! Whittled away a surprising amount of tine observing the envious monkeys hovering over those raccoons just waiting for their go on the fallen fruit.

    Not quite settled with the abundance of wildlife already we had our heart set on spotting more sloths - and we didn't stop looking in those towering jungle trees - but this time it was to no avail and the illusive sloth escaped us.

    Beginning to see a snippet of the expensive Costa Rica here that all backpackers complain off - supermarket shop for two loafs of bread, pack of mayonnaise, spreadable cheese coming to a staggering $16!! Given this would be $5 just across the border this was a big increase!

    All sunned out we made the most of our motel like hostel on our final night - the flat screen TV a real treat, it didn't quite stretch to aircon however and so the carribean heat meant for a rather clammy evening!

    After 3 weeks it was time to say goodbye to Costa Rica and all the amazing wildife that comes with it - its South America time!    Read more

  • TravelerLa Vida Colorida
    Day 453

    Rafting the Pacuare

    January 28, 2020 in Costa Rica ⋅ 🌧 25 °C

    Day 453.

    What wasn't mentioned in my last post was that as well as living at the rafting lodge we were lucky enough to go rafting free of charge down the mighty Pacuare River not once - but twice!

    This was a first for limbster and there was certainly some nerves being battled beforehand. After my confident but hugely incorrect pep talk about front left / back right, it was actually me who was the first to make the errors on the water. However it didn't take long for those fears to disappear when, in the safe hands of Moses we were racing down the waves, cruising past waterfalls and the towering jungle.

    Apart from one or two times where we may have become slightly stuck on a rock it all went swimmingly, limbster remained planted in the boat at all times and the safety kayak was never called into action (dissapointingly..)    Read more

  • TravelerLa Vida Colorida
    Day 452

    Pacuare River Lodge

    January 27, 2020 in Costa Rica ⋅ 🌧 24 °C

    Day 452.

    It was 8.30am and as instructed we had taken a bus to a local rafting bar in the middle of the valley to await our host for the next few weeks. Kirk arrived shortly after and from there it was a steep 30 minute descent by 4x4 to the Pacuare River Lodge - our jungle home for the next few weeks.

    We were quickly brought up to speed by 4 friendly French workawayers - and soon realised the owner wouldn't be sticking around. We'd have free reign in running and living at the jungle rafting lodge!

    Our cabaña was surronded by miles of uninhabited jungle, deserted waterfalls and most importantly the mighty Pacuare river. It was a 1.5 hour uphill walk to reach the closest road and sign of life - so it looked like we wouldn't be leaving anytime soon!

    The cabin that we called home for two weeks consisted of 4 mesh walls to keep the bugs out and a roof over our head, this meant for 360 views of the jungle from bed - the perfect wildlife spotting position. Watching dozens of toucans fly from tree to tree all day was a popular past time. A particular highlight was spotting our first sloth, from bed, swinging in a tree 200+ yards away - I should have been a pilot.

    The upside of living in the jungle, depending on who you spoke too meant we were constantly surronded by spiders, snakes of all shapes and sizes. Fortunately we avoided the spree of poisonous ones a week before our arrival, consisting the anti venom is required within 1-3 hours its safe to say we'd be well and truly screwed. At least when danger was near one of us managed to keep a cool head - if it's not already clear, this was not limbster. Frantic jumping (plus screaming) infront of the snake poised to attack is not a recommended response ever. Maybe now she'll finally watch jurassic Park and heed my advice...

    Food was plentiful, with the river guides cooking us up delicious feasts on a daily basis, but that didn't stop us taking advantage of what was growing right outside, our lodge was scattered with coconut, banana, orange and lime trees - the latter being perfect to add to the local rum for an afternoon (or morning) cocktail.

    Our routine was easier than expected, starting after breakfast our work would be to clean the lodges or polish the ever growing pile of bamboo ready to be used in the cabins. Once the clock hit 11 we didn't waste any time in heading straight down through the jungle, leaping into the river for a swim, it was hard not to be amazed at the beauty of this place and the hours quickly disappeared whilst here.

    It wasn't all sunshine however, in fact we took an extended battering of rain, which submerged the jungle into the clouds, and the landslides wasted no time in turning the bright blue river brown. We were prepared for this however and the cosy afternoons snuggled up with limbster and a movie was an experience in itself, watching season 3 of the crown albeit a little surreal amongst the noises of the jungle was a like a little snippet of home.

    Somehow even the realization that our backpacks had started to grow mould didn't dampen our spirits. Whilst it should have set off alarm bells it actually had us digging in our heels further and holding out for that sun once again. When the sun did creep through we wasted no time in making the most of it, slippery adventures to the nearby waterfall together felt like they were right out of an adventure movie!

    After growing tired of using my 3x camera zoom to capture any wildlife in detail it was like a nearby Toucan heard my calling and went flying right through the side of the nearest cabin. Credit were credit is due it was eagle eyed Limbster that spotted this one, much to my amazement - This meant it was down to us to free the fella and also gave us the perfect opportunity for a close up as he escaped through the front door!

    Our camp even adopted its own wild jungle dog who stuck by our side when he wasn't busy getting high off poisonous toads. Limbster had a love hate relationship - but ultimately they were brought together by a slip of the hand and slightly more spaghetti than planned. That plus having a snake hunting dog at hand to walk you back at night was a blessing to us all.

    After two weeks settled in this incredible place and spending exactly 0 pounds in doing so meant it was hard to imagine what life on the road once again would be like. But the carribean sun was calling so in true jungle style we packed our things and white water rafted our way out of there.    Read more

  • TravelerLa Vida Colorida
    Day 441

    San José / Turrialba

    January 16, 2020 in Costa Rica ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Day 441.

    Crossing into San Jose would be our 4th land border crossing since we arrived in Central America, and it certainly was the smoothest. First we parted with the standard arbitrary sum of 3 dollars to Nicaraguan officials in order to collect our exit stamp.

    Next we managed to change our remaining cash with a trustworthy looking bloke at the border carrying wads of cash - all types and colours, got a surprisingly good deal all things considered just need to adjust to Costa Rican Colones, 720 to the pound.

    After observing a number of individuals heading suspiciously into the jungle whilst we strolled through 'no man's land' it was no surprise to see our first arrest a few minutes later by the Costa Rican border patrol.

    It had already been a long morning, leaving Ometepe at 5am, so far taking a ferry, a very long standing bus (which didn't settle my stomach one bit) followed by two more chicken buses. But we had made the border in good time and now it was just a mere 6 hours to the capital of San Jose. Fortunately a slightly dodgy looking fella was on hand to sell me some lunch, pre cooked fried chicken - of which he had 20 portions, plated up and slightly moist in a plastic bag ready to sell through the bus window...

    Taken by surprise with the beauty of Costa Rica on the drive in, nothing but green lushous mountain side and jungle, barely a town in sight the entire journey, simply amazing scenery - Limbsters eyes were glued to the window the whole way.

    Have to admit the americanization of San Jose was a little slice of luxury for us. After weeks of rice and beans we delved right into the fast food options. A KFC and McDonald's on literally every corner made it hard to avoid. After realising we would be heading into the jungle for the following 3 weeks it didn't take long to persuade ourselves for the pepperoni pizza either!

    Small backpacks packed and warm items safely stored away we boarded a bus to begin our journey deep into the jungle.    Read more

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