Cruising donkeys

Cruising donkeys

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Settling in at Lefkas
December 18, 2018 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C
We have now been here over a week already, time is flying by. We have done some work on the boat, sanding and varnishing for me, sanding and priming for John, but the weather hasn’t been great with lots of rain and at night thunder storms, last nights was really loud. The rest of this week is supposed to be fine so I am hoping to pressure clean the decks, we want to do this before our neighbour comes back to his new boat (he bought it end of last year brand new) after Christmas, he is a bit precious and we are sure he would object strongly to the mess. If we do it soon there is bound to be rain before 5 Jan when he returns, to wash it all away. We also want to do some grinding but not sure we will get this done before neighbours return so might need to construct a sheet tent around john so no mess can jump.
We took part in the quiz last Wednesday for the first time and came second to last, we started well but gradually drifted backwards, only saving grace was the last place team had 6 members whereas it was only John and I on our team. Also attended Happy Hour on Thursday and met more Marina residents including Ray, an ex truck engineer with lots of Volvo experience so John spoke to him for ages and got some good advice. On Saturday we went on a free bus trip to the local Ikea where there is also an H&M, Intersport and Jumbo (a huge shop that seems to sell a bit of everything). We had fun and as it pretty much rained all day it was a good way to use the time.
Friday night is Christmas party night, Friday morning is carol singing, Sunday morning is Secret Santa so we are keeping ourselves busy.
Oh yes more on the weather last Tuesday when we woke there was ice, yes ice on the deck of the boat and this isn’t the coldest month. We are now looking at ways of adding further insulation mainly for the windows in the salon.
I am attending the gym regularly and doing Greek Pilates classes, I have been able to help a couple of English speaking people with some ‘at home’ exercises and John and I have done a couple of runs as well.
Oh yes on a non Christmas note not sure I said but on our trip up the canal to the marina we saw, flamingos, pelicans, herons, greater egrets, egrets, plovers, gulls and an odd sort of black duck that wasn’t in our book 📖.
Off to the timber yard tomorrow to see what they have, ideally we would like some teak faced ply, but it is likely that this is an ask to far, but who knows, we will also go to Lidl as almost next door to buy our Boxing Day meal ingredients, not sure what we will have, depends what they have in stock.
All the best everyone.Read more
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Lefkas Marina All settled
December 11, 2018 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C
Well we have now put some more fuel on board, we were going to fill up but diesel was 1.689 a litre so only put in enough to avoid condensation in the tank. We had seen at the fuel pumps at a garage just out of town on the way to the supermarket that diesel is 1.48 at the pumps! We shouldn’t have been surprised, like the Marinero said,who helped us moor, the only thing you can do for free in this marina is pee!!
Well we found a laundry after wandering round town for a bit with a couple of full bags, problem was the one we went to couldn’t do the wash till Friday and we were both a bit too short of underwear to wait that long. We are now on our winter berth G10 luckily it’s nice and close to a toilet and shower block and seems like it will be well sheltered.
We have made contact with the stalwarts of the Marina live aboard, or used to, community. We are booked on a Christmas Lunch at Vliho Yacht Club, that’s near Nidri to the south but there is a minibus to collect and return us and they are able to cater for John. He is a very happy bunny 🐰 as today, following directions from the marina cafe staff we found a bakery that cooks gluten free bread daily for only €1.30 a loaf. Through the ‘friends of Lefkas Marina’ Facebook page we have also found a baker prepared to try to make John a GF meat pie! Not sure if she has any idea how difficult GF pastry can be!
We are going to the quiz night on Wednesday, and there is a happy hour in the Marina cafe/bar on Thursday when we should be able to meet more people. Today I went to knit and natter so have learnt a new knitting skill I can now ‘make one’ ( for those not in the know that means adding in a stitch). There is a walking group that meet on a Sunday morning as well as bridge and ballroom dancing, we have decided to give the last two a miss for now.
Our Christmas lights are up, this year we have some internal and some external, it’s raining right now so photos to follow. We have also received some Christmas presents, thank you Pampers! The town’s Christmas lights are also good and I hope we have a dry evening when I can take some photos.
The gym, which is 159m from mooring is basic but has everything I need and the classes seem good did a Pilates with the ring class today and am expecting to ache a little tomorrow but still booked in for Pilates on the Swiss ball.
We haven’t done any of the maintenance jobs yet but have visited lots of chandlery shops to price up kit and supplies so are running it of excuses now, maybe tomorrow if it’s not raining.
Well all the best feel free to email us about your Christmas plans etc or just to confirm that someone is reading this.Read more
TravelerHi Beth, allow me to confirm that someone is indeed reading this ! Glad to see your nicely settled for Christmas, sounds like a really good base to take stock and enjoy the jolly season. My Christmas plans involve working a long day on Le Marchant Ward ( 7.00 am- 20.30 pm ) Christmas day, and the same on boxing day. All by choice I might add as it solves any what to do dilemmas. Didn't have you down as someone that knitted but a good skill to have, I've not looked on here for a while as I cocked up my goggle account ( most get some better IT skills ) set up a new email address so notifications were going to a dead end but sorted now. Anyway, sounds like Yourself and John are both well and having a great time, I will keep closer tabs on your updates and will happily let you know that they are being read and appreciated. Bye for now, Shane !
12/15/18Reply
Cruising donkeysThanks Shane hope you are still enjoying your new career, well it’s not really new now I suppose. Working on the ward for Christmas should be a lot of fun as well as hard work. Knitting is a new skill as during summer lots of high winds when we couldn’t go anywhere so needed something to do, not good at being idle. Have a great Christmas and New Year.
12/16/18Reply
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Lefkas Marina
December 9, 2018 in Greece ⋅ 🌧 14 °C
We travelled from Meganisi a whole 4miles to Nidri where we moored alongside on what turned out to be a private pontoon. But on the way we stopped so I could have another swim. We would have moored on the town quay but it was full of ferries taking a winter break. Fortunately the owner of the pontoon, Kelvin was very nice and didn’t charge us, also he has a team of English speaking engineers so might use them to service the injectors, apparently. We did manage to eat out in Nidri and there was even a choice but we were sold when we saw the very large pizza oven and warming flames. I had our first fish meal since arriving in Greece, sea bream and salad delicious, we have avoided fish up till now as very expensive and charged by the kg but this was €13 so quite reasonable, John had peppered steak.
The next day, Saturday we headed north around the Lefkas coast and arrived at Lefkas Marina after a final cruising week of glorious sunshine ☀️. On Friday it was so hot I had to seek the shade, seems ridiculous right now. Glad we’re here as 1 we needed a good long shower and 2 it’s now raining heavily and is due to continue for the next couple of days. So far we have been shopping and scoped out the nearest cafe, it’s warm and does a great milky coffee, we have even joined their ‘club’ so get reduced rate drinks including coffee, result! But still need to find a cheaper laundromat, there is one in the marina but they charge €15 to wash and dry an ordinary load which seems pricey. I have found the gym, which is on site and will join Monday, only because it’s closed on Sundays, today.
If the rain lets up we are planning on going out for Sunday lunch and to try to find out about Christmas Day options.

The Marina office isn’t open till Monday when we will ask for a berth the other side of the pontoon so the stern is facing south and bow is into prevailing wind so we can be as warm as possible. Greece is definitely going to be a cooler and wetter than Almerimar I just hope there are enough dry days to get the necessary winter maintenance done.Read more
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Meganisi
December 6, 2018 in Greece ⋅ 🌙 7 °C
So from Fiscardo, we travelled a 10 miles to Vassiliki in the south of Lefkas. They are building what should be, if it is finished, a very well equipped and sheltered marina here. We found room to go alongside on the town quay and apart from the work on the marina it was very quiet we found one open coffee shop no taverna though so after a walk around town and along the beach we had food on board. The next day it was only 5 miles to Sivota but we stopped on the way so I could have a swim, after the skinny dip I realised the water is a lot warmer than I expected so as the sun was out I did a 30min swim and wiped the face of the depth sounder as the readings were getting a bit hazy. We had thought that Vassiliki was quiet, well nothing was open in Sivota not even a cafe, but it was a very sheltered bay and in shoulder months is probably lovely. This time of year the sun left the moorings very early and it got a bit chilly. Once again a walk, then food on board.
Today we travelled 6 miles to get to Port Spiglia on Meganisi. We were approached by a coastguard boat on route but when we slowed so we could talk to them they waved and zoomed off. We have walked up the hill to Spartakhori, where there was one very Greek cafe that was open it was full of old men drinking Greek coffee, we saw quite a few very old looking Greek ladies all in black including the headscarf. We also rode our bikes around the coast to Vathi where we found tourist coffee but again no tavernas, perhaps we can eat out tomorrow in Nidri, who knows.Read more
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Fiskardo, northern Cephalonia
December 3, 2018 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
Travelled from Sami up the Ithaca Channel to the pretty little harbour of Fiskardo. By all accounts it’s a very popular yachtie stop, and we can understand why just glad we visited in December and appeared to be the only visitors. Did a couple of walks one through the Cypress trees to the south the other to the lighthouses on the headland. The older, Venetian lighthouse is now in a private house’s garden, how awesome would that be? Scenery was stunning, sorry no photos as took camera not iPad. This morning on another walk, this time to the northwest, where we saw loads of toadstools I even managed a quick skinny dip, bonus of being the only ones around, bays and coves were lovely, water was beautiful aquamarine and surrounding rock is flinty so lovely smooth white pebbles, idyllic. In the photo of the town on the left you can see a yellow house with blue shutters it’s for sale and is the one John wants!Read more
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Sami on Cephalonia
December 1, 2018 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
OK so we are getting closer every trip to our Christmas 🎄 stopover location of Lefkas Marina on Lefkas. After waiting out a couple of days of high winds up in Messolonghi, we headed south down the channel to the open water. I had eaten ginger, taken tablets and was wearing my anti seasick bands all it turns out for no reason, there was a little chop but as we stayed in the shallow water as we headed west along the coast it didn’t amount to much. We then hugged Oxia island and headed slightly north to Ormos Petalas, a large shallow lagoon as more winds expected, and they did arrive so we stayed two nights and one day with only distant lights for company while winds howled around us. Sea didn’t pick up but that was probably because we were anchored in only 8 foot of water.
On 30th November we continued the trip west, again it was a lot more pleasant than expected with the sun coming out for most of it, 4hours later we arrived in Sami harbour and found 2fishing boats and 1 other yacht. Ludwig the Danish owner of the other yacht a steel self build is off home on Monday leaving his boat alongside on the quay. We were a bit dubious but he has been cruising the Northern Ionian for 5years and all the locals know him and he assures us they will watch his boat for him.
Today we walked to the main sites near the harbour, the Paleokastro and Antes Fanentes two sites from ancient Sami an Acropolis and church respectively. The last photo is of the walking trail backdown to town, it didn’t feel very Greek.Read more
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Messolonghi
November 25, 2018 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
The trip from Patras to Messolonghi went well, the sun was shining and sea calm. Messolonghi marina and town quay are at the end of a 4km canal sort of thing, in a lagoon,see photo from Pilotbook. It is very sheltered as you would expect and all the land around is low lying, they produce salt around here. On the sides of the canal up to the lagoon are houses on stilts, it all felt very Asain, although some of the houses are very flash. We tried to go into the marina as I was looking forward to having power but no, apparently they have no license at the moment. Here is the story as we got it from a Brit who has been based here for a few years now.
The marina was jointly owned a Greek and a Dutch man, they had previously had another business that had done well but they had a disagreement, it’s rumoured the Greek man was pocketing cash and the Dutchman took over the Marina. However the Greek man then started making waves and getting the authorities involved about standards and services which has resulted in the Marina loosing its license to operate. This was last year some time and since then the sole owner has been jumping through Greek bureaucratic hoops and is nearly there, he now just needs to submit a plan for the next three years development (new requirement). When we arrived and tried to come into marina port police followed the boat in their vehicle to make sure we didn’t go in. They also checked the paperwork at the Town quay where we moored for a few days before anchoring off when the wind direction changed.
We have met the Marina long stay residents, they are great and it is a real shame about the license as location is good facilities showers loos laundry cafe all good, other things are not allowed like cranes etc until license sorted.
The town itself is modern as it’s a university town so lots of young people which is unusual as on the islands they have all moved to the mainland for jobs. The cafes are also modern and used. But one thing we have noticed especially since the tourists are gone is that although there are no smoking signs at cafes and restaurants the ban is not enforced. When we asked about this we were told ‘yes it is the law but we would have no customers’!
We have done our shopping both for food and the boat completed laundry and used showers (there is a little green frog in the shower area) so are ready to move on. Wind should ease tonight so hopefully tomorrow we will head back out to the Ionian Islands, this time Cephalonia and the port of Sami, but we will wait and see, if it is still very rough we will just come back to Messolonghi.Read more
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Vouraikos gorge railway
November 21, 2018 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
Well, yes there is a story, after a choppy crossing north to south and then surfing before the wind under the bridge we turned up at the marina in Patras to be told that visiting boats were prohibited 🚫! We could see that the ‘visitor’ pontoon was damaged but there were plenty of empty moorings on the other pontoons, but were told we couldn’t use them. The very pleasant marina guy told us to head to the town quay, so we did, it was very choppy in here and was usually where the super yachts moored. I can see how it would work for them but for us.... Anyway we went alongside and found our slime lines for the bow, and by carefully pulling one and releasing the mooring bow line and tightening the mooring stern line we managed to end up stern too but we had to be well off the quay 2m because of the swell both from the wind and the passing commercial traffic. We used the dinghy to get to shore and spent pleasant evening walking the pedestrian precinct of Patras hoping the wind would ease, it hadn’t by the time we returned pulled up on bow lines a bit more and crashed out. We awoke in a rush when the dive platform crunched the quay (we have checked now and no real damage) that was scary, a tug had come in alongside on the quay next to us kicking up a lot swell and making us drag mooring chains. GREAT now what, well we pulled up on the lines again and then tried to go back to sleep. Later we ended up getting up again when what turned out to be a short storm with thunder and lightning heavy rain and high seas arrived, John popped out to tie down the dinghy but nothing else we could do except wait and watch the sea churning and the tug looming next to us.
In the morning it was as flat as a pancake and the sun came out, you wouldn’t credit it. We decided it would be safe to leave the boat so decided to take a rack and pinion train ride through the Vouraïkos gorge between Diakopto and Kalavrita going over 49 bridges. Stunning scenery, the photos don’t really do it justice.
Sorry about long postRead more
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Kalavrita Museum
November 21, 2018 in Greece
While up in Kalavrita we visited the Holocaust Museum, the town was the sight of a significant war atrocity, it was occupied firstly by the Italians and then the Germans as Partisans were operating nearby and included some townspeople’s family. After weeks of uncertainty all the towns folk were bid to meet in the old school house. There the men of fighting age and boys over 13 were separated out and taken to a ridge near the town where on receiving a signal they were gunned down.Meanwhile the remaining townspeople were locked in the school and it was set alight. Over 600 people died 465 at the ridge, only 13 escaped, the remainder in the burning building or shortly after from wounds. It took the women 3 days to bury the dead.
Pretty horrendous reallyRead more
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Nafpaktos Castle
November 20, 2018 in Greece ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
We walked back up to the Castle as it was Tuesday so the sign said it would be open and fortunately it was, lots of the exterior walls were still standing but there wasn’t a lot of info about the Castle except that it was primarily Venetian but built on top of and incorporating older features. Photos look OK.
When we wandered back to the boat it was bobbing around so we decided to head to the Patras Marina. If only we had known then what we know now we would have stayed where we were. But anyway, off we went passing under Rio–Antirrio Bridge, officially the Charilaos Trikoupis Bridge, is one of the world's longest multi-span cable-stayed bridges and longest of the fully suspended type. It crosses the Gulf of Corinth near Patras, linking the town of Rio on the Peloponnese peninsula to Antirrio on mainland Greece by road with a toll if you drive across but free to pass under as long as you ask permission!Read more
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Nafpaktos
November 19, 2018 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
Wow when we woke up on Saturday and looked towards Delphi on the side of Mount Parnassos there was snow. Snow this is Greece you don’t picture snow when you think of Greece well we didn’t but apparently there are 27km of ski slopes on Mount Parnassos! We left Itea after a coffee and headed south but only about 5Nm to an almost landlocked bay with only a hotel that was closed. But as it was still p***ing down we weren’t going anywhere in the dinghy anyway so didn’t matter at all. We did contemplate a walk ashore but the pack of dogs we saw persuaded us this was a naff idea!
Next day we headed to Nisos Trizonia, somewhere Ken from Almerimar had mentioned, still on Northern shore of Corinthian Gulf. It was still raining and cold though not quite as bad which made appreciating the island harder but we did decide that in the sunshine it would have been interesting to walk around and the tiny harbour, along from the marina, would have been a lovely place to drink a coffee ☕️ and watch the world go by. The ‘marina’ was fairly big but had had its fair share of abandoned boats some were still in the water rather than on it, others had sunk and were being removed. As seems to be the norm we were one of only 2 inhabited yachts and only stayed the 1 night.
We are now in Nafpaktos which we wouldn’t have been able to come to in season as it’s a bit small. It’s an old medieval harbour the entrance is 35m wide, we are largest boat by about 8m. We did walk up to the castle, but we forgot today was Monday when all tourist sites tend to be closed, so have to walk up again tomorrow.Read more
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Delfi
November 16, 2018 in Greece ⋅ 🌧 11 °C
It’s been raining, yuck, and it’s cold. I checked the forecast for Delphi and it gave single figures and rain and sadly it was right!
I am sure it’s a stunning place but when you are cold and getting increasingly wet it’s difficult to be properly appreciative. We took the precaution of going to the museum first and reading the bumf about each ‘building’ so a least we didn’t have to stand around like the tour groups to read/hear the history of each one in the rain but still....
Also part of the splendour of the place is supposed to be the site which we couldn’t fully see because of the low cloud. Well here are the photos.Read more
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Itea
November 15, 2018 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
We have had a a few easy days in the Gulf of Corinth visiting some towns, harbours and anchorages where we were the only boat and where it sometimes felt like we were the only people!
Our first stop was the Kala Islands we anchored off Nisos Zoodochos Pigi and visited the deserted monastery but the wind picked up so we headed to Mavrolimnis for the night, photo 2. The harbour is built on a natural sand/rock bar the breakwater pier was about 250m long but at its widest the harbour was only 50m wide and backed to the shallow cliff face there was only a warden and a club house. We noticed on our way there that the next town south west was the end of the road as there had been a major mud slide that had covered the other road out. The following day we headed north west and anchored off Sarandi. We found a cafe owner who spoke English,he said that in winter there were only about 50 people but in the summer around 3,000 they came from the big towns nearby including Athens. He was a qualified Agrochemist studying organopesticide buildup in olives but job was 2 months on and 2 or more off. The taverna where we ate had an English menu but the owner spoke no English, we ended up with far too much food but it was all good as the local cats helped us finish everything.
Last night we anchored off the Kelali peninsula just to the south of Andraklin in a bay called Ormos Isidoros.
We are now here in Itea to visit Delphi, or as John would say another pile of stones, albeit a famous pile. When we arrived there two small cruise ships here but now we are only visiting boat again.Read more
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Ancient Corinth
November 10, 2018 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
Fortunately there was room for us in Corinth yacht harbour, we were dubious as Almanac said only suitable for yachts less than 12m, but only one other visiting boat there so eased in gently and settled alongside, so far no one has come to ask for money.
We spent Friday evening with the locals walking around and drinking coffee. Today we took the bus to Ancient Corinth, I am a little jaded now but it was an interesting pile of rocks and well worth the 4euro entry fee which included the museum. If we had been asked for our comments we would have suggested that they orientate the pictures and plans to the way you are standing to view the information board and item you are reading about, it is sometimes difficult to work it out when no major features to see.Read more
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Corinth Canal
November 9, 2018 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
We had a, well I was about to type quiet night in an enclosed bay about 7 miles east of the Corinth canal, then remembered the torrential rain the thunder and lightning. I was happy swimming in the rain and the thunder didn’t bother me but when the lightning started and two local boats headed into the bay, probably to shelter near the big metal boat I decided to get out the water. Sod’s law really as John had earlier removed the forward hatch cover to turn it around so it would open towards any breeze when we are at anchor, then it clouded over so he decided to wait before refixing so yes of course it was bound to hammer it down.
Next morning we head to the Canal entrance to tie up and pay our usage dues, thinking that by arriving early we would give ourselves plenty of time at the other end to get to an anchorage. No, as we approached the waiting pontoon I was sure I could see a working crane in the Canal, yes out comes an official to tell us to anchor up outside, the Canal wouldn’t open till the afternoon. OK this meant John could fix the hatch down so hopefully no leaks if it rains again but less time to travel at western end fingers crossed there would be space in Corinth harbour.
In the end we didn’t get to go through till 16:00 when the crane and barges have been dragged out. I think it took us longer than they anticipated, we were the third of three boats and were trailing a little when we got asked by radio to go at full speed and had to confirm that we already were 😄. It is stunning 3.2Miles long 25m wide, with highest point 76m up, it was originally lined with limestone blocks and had a sort of tow path but most of the blocks and path have fallen in. As we travelled along we saw the section the crane was working on, yesterday’s heavy rain had caused a fall and depth dropped from 20ft to 10ft under the keel. We were also lucky enough to see a kingfisher as were pooled along.Read more
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Mycenae
November 6, 2018 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
After a lovely lunch we then headed to Mycenae for some really ancient history, it would seem the site is from 1300 and 1200BC there were some really impressive bits ‘grave circle A’ photo2 great description eh? This was used in Neolithic times as well as during the 1200BC. A lot of the old town has been destroyed by earthquake or looted for building materials but there were two intact beehive tombs, well structurally intact the burial goods had all gone obviously but the two beehive tombs were awe inspiring. John was concerned with how they were built and concluded that a mound of ground was used and the block work built over this, they looked 10-12m tall, the soil would then have been removed and piled on top, they had what I felt were almost Egyptian style entrances and some of the blocks especially the lintels were huge. Just inside each of the 2 entry gates were small chambers where we assume the guards were located, one of the gates, the main one is known as the Lion gate. They had expanded the town walls during 1200 BC to add a water source . But the origin was still outside the walls but they had built an aqueduct of clay pipework partly above ground but mostly subterranean that then reached 18m under the town so they had unlimited water. check out the photos.Read more
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Methana Epidauras and Nafplio
November 5, 2018 in Greece ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C
Hello again, well we are still enjoying the calm weather and during the day the heat, it’s still bathers temperature as long as the sun is out. After Aegina we headed first to Methana town on the east coast of the Methana Peninsula. It is famous, or was, for its spa baths, they are now closed but the sulphur naturally flows into the old harbour making the water opaque and of course being fairly offensive nasally. We moored off the new yacht arm as we weren’t sure what that concentration ofsulphur could do to the boat but we did have a swim, sadly only a quick one as it wasn’t warm. Later that day a German local came to ask us for books, he can read and speak English fluently, and told us about a small hot pool on the other headland near the church. We visited there the next morning and it was a lovely temperature and not as smelly.
From here we headed around the peninsula to the east coast a found a secluded anchorage just south of Vathi for two nights. We did some scavenging on the shore and John scoped out a suitable olive tree branch, long story, but the following morning he headed ashore with a saw and came back later with a piece of tree trunk 1metre by 35cm which we then had to ‘hide’ on the boat. While he was doing this I was cleaning the exterior of the boat.
Then we travelled to Palacio Epidaurus, the quay was ‘closed’ this just meant there was no charge, we could still use it. We hired a car here to visit the Ancient Theatre, only about 30 mins away but all seriously uphill, that seats between 14-17;000 people depending on which web sites you read, the setting was very picturesque and tranquil and the site was historically for health and healing, we then headed to Nafplio where we went to the fort above the town to Palamidi, it’s relatively new having been built in the 1600’s and was fairly intact so we were able to relate to this being fortification, than temple types.Read more
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Egina town on Aigina island
November 1, 2018 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
We enjoyed our time at Souvala on the North coast but felt a little bad about abusing their hospitality so have moved to the main town and harbour on the NW coast for a night before we head onwards. On our first full day on the island we used our push bikes and visited the Paleochora (ancient town) this is where the Aegean’s moved to when the pirate raids were too prolific on the coast. Now all that’s left here are the churches, the houses have been destroyed for the building material. There are an awful lot of churches/chapels and almost all contained icons candles etc, apparently there is a saint for everyday and its a sign of status for a family to build a church/chapel and they are all dedicated to a saint or two. Nowadays these family churches/ chapels are private but historically they were for everyone, and the higher and more obscure the location the greater the prestige. The photos show one side of the hill and a map showing the locations.
After here we cycled first to the Monastery of Nektarios only to be greeted by a sign saying women in trousers and men in shorts were not allowed in! Really we are in the 21 century, we were going to go in anyway but had already visited 15 churches so decided to go for lunch instead. After some restorative food we rode to the Temple of Aria more up. This, the temple at Sounion and the Parthenon form a triangle apparently and on clear days you can see each from each, it wasn’t clear enough when we were there however.
Yesterday we met up with Ashley and Kathy, Australian’s that we had met in Almerimar, their boat Windjammer was in one of the yards here for repairs after an incident in Poros. We were able to return Ashley’s beanie hat to him, he had forgotten it after one of the Sunday walks and Nev had given it to us as Windjammer had left Almerimar before us and we were both going to Greece! I must email him to let him know we did manage to deliver it eventually. We spent a lovely morning and evening with them hearing about their trip and experiences.Read more
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Aigina
October 29, 2018 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
Well here we are just south of Athens, on the north coast of Aigina. The winds in Sifnos were strong Wednesday night into Thursday morning and during the day and initially were blowing us onto the quay but we winched up on the anchor and things were OK, the wind then changed direction so all was good, though still gusting strongly. Met a crowd of youngsters on boat next door, 2 of the 6 had experience but one of them had had to return to Athens for a few days and the remaining experienced guy was getting worried about getting the others back to Athens for their flights on Saturday. He wanted to leave on Thursday afternoon but it was still gusting force 8. We expected them to leave early Friday but they were still there when we left about 9 and we kept looking back but think they may have decided that a ferry from Sifnos would be easier than a very long day at sea.
We travelled from Sifnos up the east coast of Serifos to end up on the NW corner of Kythnos just above the harbour it was a beautiful sheltered quiet anchorage on the east side of a sand bar. I have just looked for photo but can’t find it, very irritating. On Friday we were amazed at how clear the air was, the visibility was incredible. On the way to Sifnos we had been unable to see the island until we were a couple of miles off but when we left we could see East to Syros and Paros and west to the mainland of the Peloponnese.
From Kythnos we headed back towards Olympic Marina on the mainland via the southern tip of Kea and Makronisis, to get fuel. We stopped off on the west coast of Makronisis, for what John says will be his last swim of the year, and to look more closely at some of the abandoned buildings. We had a good look around but have no more idea why the island is now next to uninhabited than we did before.
During our stay at Lavrion anchored in our usual bay just North of town we managed to find some Johnnie bread, white but apparently OK, and a few other GF treats and just for good measure I baked some more carrot cupcakes.
On leaving our anchorage we saw the container ship CSL Virginia, the one that was rammed by the Turkish ship back on the 10 th near Corsica. The whole is seriously impressive, we hadn’t heard about the crash and at first couldn’t believe we were seeing a hole!Read more
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Sifnos
October 24, 2018 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
Guess what another storm on the way, a fierce one gusts up to 40mph so we are staying here in Sifnos until it has all blown over. It’s a nice island a bit dead, as lots of cafes and restaurants are closed now but the small port is still awake. We have done couple of trail walks since we arrived along some old donkey trails and paved footpaths, the views have been incredible. Day 1 we walked on a trail on the north of the valley from Kamares the port to Apollonia, the capital, then to Artemonas and down to Kastro before returning via Artemonas to the port. We were walking in total for about 6 hours but the walk was only graded 1-2/5. Photos 1&2 re view back to port and of capital respectively. To day we walked from the port to the capital using a route on the south side of the valley this one was graded 4/5 and the beginning was steep then after the cave it became very steep until the old village and mine before swallowing out when we were up on the ridge then down down down into town. Photos 5&6 show the view from near the top and the start of the walk and the cave about 3/4 of the way up, respectively. Photo 3 if you can see is of the view obviously but behind the ridge, in the distance are three Monastery’s two on hills one just behind ridge. Photo 3 is of an old shepherds bovy I think that’s the word, either for the shepherd or the goats or both.Read more
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Paros
October 21, 2018 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
We are here for two nights as again forecast not great and then we plan on heading towards Sifnos then Serifos as we head back towards the mainland. I took a gentle jog this morning and we are now wandering the streets of the old town or ‘ancient settlement’ as it is labelled on the street signs. It is picturesque as is usual for Greece there are a lot of churches winding alleys white buildings and bougainvillea, though not many flowers left on some of it. Will post this for now but may add to it later.Read more
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Trip to Paros
October 21, 2018 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
We haven’t been in touch as data credit low so only posting when in cafes! Well the forecast for leaving Patmos was good and so was the trip initially but once we left the extensive shelter of the island it was yet again very folly. The wind should have been behind us but the waves were beam on, not great. We arrived in Levitha early afternoon, this is the same island we used on our way East but we arrived in the dark and had to leave early the next day to avoid a storm. We were the first yacht to arrive and chose our bobber, later on there were 10 other yachts on moorings, as per pilot book, local guy came out to collect mooring fees and ask if we would be eating at his taverna. We weren’t sure there had been was very good and very bad reports on captains mate forum. We took a walk on the island and ended up at the ‘taverna’ the guys house. He farms goats and sheep and makes associated products as well as a market garden for taverna and growing crop for sheep to eat, it all looked really nice so after a chat about life on the island, while we waited for other yachties to arrive, we stopped for Greek salad and lamb stew it was delicious. The island has been in his family for 8 generations and although a hard life he enjoys it only issue is that now kids are school age they and mother live off island during term time, but on the island are the guys parents and his brother as well as randomly 2 Pakistani workers (well that’s where they said they were from!).
From Levitha to a bay on the North coast of Amorgos in the lea of a large uninhabited island, and yes it was very sheltered, crossing better as I could see our goal so could steer for a lot of journey. The channel between the islands southern tip and the mainland was a bit shallow 8foot at one point. It was a shame it was overcast here, it looked like it might rain, as I think in the sunshine it would be stunning turquoise water golden sand going to sleep to the gentle sound of goats bells.
Next day we moved on again this time we headed back towards Schinoussa we were going to go to Iraklia but pilot book said not very sheltered in forecast wind direction. Schinoussa was a lot quieter than last time as lots of cafes and restaurants were closed but still a lovely place. We took a longish walk and acquired a dog, we tried to visit the southern most headland on foot but it appears private. While at the restaurant a pickup truck party arrived, like a bus party only more suited to island roads. While eating John counted 11 cats, they were being occasionally moved on by a very ugly bull dog but the cats were winning.
Onwards again still west this time towards the south coast of Paros, once in the lea it was a nice trip we went all the way across the south coast and headed up the West passing between Paros and Antiparos depth not a lot, in places less than 15foot with rocks wrecks and sailing dinghies to avoid and it was misty so we couldn’t make out the far transit mark but we got through and are now in the capital of Paros anchored up as no room in small marina.Read more
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More Patmos photos
October 16, 2018 in Greece
Typical white and blue Greek scenery
Wax blocks at Monastery for candles we assume
John being very enthusiastic about braces that can be pulled across inside of Monastery doors to prevent entry.
Looking up at floor of Monastery room from alley underneath looks a bit like wattle and daub
pretty view in Skala at bottom of hill
Back of the Patmos windmills two of which date from 16th century, other must be replica?Read more
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Patmos
October 15, 2018 in Greece
We had thought we would be almost surfing our way south to Patmos but once we were clear of Fournoi there was next to no wind so a lovely cruise south to Patmos where we went onto the Town Quay unassisted! This is in a large natural harbour with one town at the port the other main town is called Chora and is up the hill. So we have now visited the ‘Cave of the Apocalypse’, St Johns Monastery, Patmos windmills, Ancient Kastelli and more churches than you can shake a stick at. Here are some photos the next post will just be more photos.Read more
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Fournoi, Quarry Bay
October 14, 2018 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
From Samos east and south to Fournoi. It dawned on me that we are now sort of heading home. As we left Pithagorio we noticed a large inflatable against the ferry quay with a coastguard cutter and people crouched against the wall we assume they were illegal immigrants or as some people describe them economic refugees. That’s our first sighting of people we have seen wrecked boats and buoyancy aids on some beaches, from a while ago as jackets very faded but that’s all.
When we reached Fournoi we anchored in Quarry Bay not the most sheltered but safe enough and we visited the ancient quarry. The left over pillar pieces were a little big to bring home but John was tempted by the stone sink. The mix of rock types in one place was incredible. Next to Patmos.Read more
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Samos by car
October 13, 2018 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
So we hired a car to do what we thought would be a full tour of Samos, we were mistaken the roads were very winding and in some places scary narrow so journeys took a lot longer than expected. We were lucky we were out of season so never met anything coming the other way! We hired the car 17:00 Friday eve and drove along the main road towards Samos Town, the same one we had ridden, but stopped at the Lidl and did a fairly major shop stocking up on essentials like toilet roll and beer? On Saturday morning we west headed along the coast past the airport and to Ireon, famous mostly for Hera’s Temple and its sandy beach but as overcast and nearly desserted it was a bit depressing. From here we traveled inland past Sarakinis Tower. Then we started uphill first to Pagondas then around and around the headland to Spatharei. We picked up a local lady just after the tower and took her to Pagondas she was very grateful we think, lots of ‘Efaresto’s’ it would have been a serious walk. Just before Spatharei is where the road went from 2lanes with central line to just about 1 car wide it stayed like that till Pyrgos where we had a walk around a nearly deserted town, we scrumpped some grapes outside the shell of an old church, walls but no roof, that had a little chapel in it, and saw lots of cats. From here we headed inland and road got narrow again and across towards Karlovassi but we stopped off in Platanos, in the middle of the wine district, for coffee and to admire the amazing view we also saw the ancient laundry here before winding our way down to the port at Karlovassi for, by then a late lunch. Service was a little slow so over 1 1/4 later but having eaten a lovely meal and fed some cats, we were on our way again, east this time back towards Samos town we had hoped to stop for ice cream in Kokkari but no time, then across the island back to Pythagorio. We had hired the car for the day which means 24hours, and managed to return it with 10 mins to spare. Samos is one of the greenest Greek islands we have seen it’s water is from springs that originate in Turkey, but the reservoir levels are low for this time of year so the locals are hoping for rain soon.Read more
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