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North to Alaska By RV 2021
  • Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun

North to Alaska By RV 2021

With the US-Canada border closed due to the COVID-19 pandemic, we decided to ship our RV and toad to Anchorage and fly ourselves there to embark on a 14-week trip ... including the travel time required to get us to/from Tacoma. Les mer
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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    The new St Nicholas Russian Orthodox Church — Eklutna Historical Park, AK.
    The Spirit Houses & the Old St Nicholas Orthodox Church — Eklutna Historical Park, AK.A blanket covered grave awaits its spirit house — Eklutna Historical Park, AK.The spirit houses are painted in the family colors — Eklutna Historical Park, AK.Spirit Houses of Eklutna — Eklutna Historical Park, AK.An elaborate spirit house — Eklutna Historical Park, AK.

    Spirit Houses of Eklutna

    16. mai 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    The Eklutna Historical Park is one of my favorite places to visit. We make a point of going there anytime we are in the Anchorage area. Knowing Deniz’s interest in Native American cultures and the proximity of the park to Thunderbird Falls, we headed there next.

    The only time we’ve been able to visit the small museum was in 2001. When we returned in 2010, it was closed due to a dispute with the tribal elders. Today, it was closed due to COVID-19. Nonetheless, there was a cash-box nearby, so we were able to pay the $5pp admission and go for a wander.

    Eklutna is the area's oldest continuously inhabited Dena'ina Athabascan Indian settlement — estimates range from 300 to 1,000 years. On the grounds of the park are two Russian Orthodox churches and a still-active cemetery where the graves are covered with colorful spirit houses ... some crumbling away ... in the way the Athabascans believe that all that is taken from earth must be returned to earth.

    Prior to the arrival of the Orthodox missionaries, the Athabascans cremated their dead. Later, their beliefs and traditions became blended with the Orthodox practices and they began to bury their dead.

    When the deceased is first buried, a blanket is placed over the grave to comfort the soul and keep it warm as it transitions from this world to the next. Forty days later, a miniature house, painted in the family colors, is placed over the blanket to house the spirit and possessions of the deceased. Some of these houses are quite elaborate ... others are simple wooden structures.

    It’s an enchanting place — if that is the right word to use — to wander around ... and a peaceful and serene place as well.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    The mud flats go all the way to the barge ... North Star (circled) has arrived with our vehicles.
    Thick mud deposits along the Tony Knowles Coastal Trail — Anchorage, AK."Sleeping Lady" from the Tony Knowles Coastal Trail — Anchorage, AK.

    Substituting a Stroll for a Hike

    16. mai 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 48 °F

    So, remember how I said our jiggled plans didn’t quite work out? Well, that was because by the time we got to the Eagle River Nature Center, it was raining. A light drizzle only.

    Undaunted, we paid the $5 parking fee, picked up some maps and got some hiking suggestions from the volunteer staffing the information table (the log cabin nature center itself was closed due to COVID). Alas, by the time we had the dash-pass for the car, the wet stuff was really coming down. So we decided to wait, listening to the raindrops falling on the roof of the car.

    Ten minutes later it was still raining and the weather app showed rain for the next several hours. When the volunteer confirmed that there was a low centered over the area, with rain expected to continue for the next couple of hours, we decided to move on. Five minutes later, we were under blue skies with the sun breaking through.

    When we found similar blue-sky conditions in Anchorage a ½-hour later, we nixed our rainy day plan to visit the Anchorage Museum, and headed to the Tony Knowles Coastal Trail instead.

    This is another trail that I can say “we conquered,” because in 2001 the mosquitoes foiled our plan to walk at least part of the paved path. Eleven miles in length, the trail follows Cook Inlet/Knik Arm. As seems to be par for the course, the mud flats were quite prominent. The tides around here can range up to 40 feet ... second only to the Bay of Fundy.

    There was a slight breeze that was quite chilly, but the sun helped to keep us warm during our two-mile walk.

    The surprise reward during our walk ... our ship had found a deep channel and had come in! Yay! We pick up our RV and toad tomorrow.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Different and delicious ... we enjoyed our dining experience at Ginger — Anchorage, AK.

    Day 14 Ends in Anchorage

    16. mai 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 50 °F

    We have a new favorite restaurant in Anchorage to add to our list ... Ginger. The restaurant, which specializes in Pacific Rim cuisine, has been around for 14 years. We obviously missed it when we were in Anchorage in 2010. In our defense, that was a very short visit.

    We all enjoyed our dining experience very much. The ambiance — so not Alaska — was a nice change of pace. The service was great ... Joey, in fact, was the consummate waiter. The food ... well, it was excellent.

    Definitely a place we’ll be looking to return to when we next visit Anchorage.

    —————————————-

    For those interested in such things, here’s a description of the various dishes featured in the “food porn” photo ... except for the delicious salad I had as my main course ... it looked as good as it tasted, but I forgot to take a photo.

    Drinks: Deniz … a specialty cocktail … Chupacabra ... tequila, fresh squeezed lemon and grapefruit, agave and jalapeño syrup // Me … King Street Pilsner // Mui … a red zinfandel.

    Appetizer to Share: sweet & spicy crispy pork egg rolls … sriracha spiced ground pork and sesame marinated Asian vegetables with sweet chili dipping sauce … surprisingly mild.

    Soup for Deniz: banana and lemongrass soup with deviled crab and curried/candied eggplant … an interesting combo of tastes.

    Main Courses: Deniz … Mee Krob … sweet and spicy chicken, pork, and shrimp sautéed with mixed peppers & jalapeños over crispy vermicelli & rice noodles … his only complaint was that the sriracha smear on the plate was just a bit too spicy // Me … strawberry chili … butter leaf hearts tossed in a creamy sweet chili cilantro dressing with fresh strawberries, and candied pecans // Mui … glazed pork belly with cilantro rice and grilled broccolini … while he could not fault the tasty predation, it was just a little too fatty for his taste … he should have stuck with the seared ahi he had his eye on initially.

    Dessert to Share: green tea crème brûlée … fresh strawberry, house made whipped cream … very creamy and not too sweet.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    3Cruising along the iceberg necklace from ice discharged from Knik Glacier — Alaska.

    Day 15 Teaser

    17. mai 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ☁️ 37 °F

    I’m too tired to stay up much longer, so I am going to just upload a teaser of today’s main activity ... Enjoy! I’ll write more about our day tomorrow 🤞🏻.

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021

    Reunited with the RV & Toad

    17. mai 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 45 °F

    Both vehicles survived the cruise up from Tacoma and arrived in Anchorage on Sunday. No port operations open to the public, so they were unloaded and spent the night at Tote Maritime’s port facility.

    We went to the port to pick up the vehicles bright and early this morning ... anytime after 8:00a we were told. We were there a little before that to take care of the security paperwork. Unlike in the Port of Tacoma, here we had to get a car pass and then a security guard led a small convoy to the Tote facilities.

    I was first to enter the Tote Vehicle Department offices and caught the guys by surprise. Apparently, they are given a call before people are sent up to them ... but no one called today. They recovered quickly. I was asked to sign a few forms accepting delivery and basically that was it.

    The CR-V was parked in front of the office; the RV a little further back. We were hooked up in no time and done with the pick up by 8:30a.

    Oh, and we are richer by two camp chairs ... compliments of Tote Maritime for shipping an RV with them!

    Our experience with Tote northbound has been excellent. And we would highly recommend them to anyone who wants to get their vehicles up to Anchorage by sea instead of by road.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    A Ziggy Mural — Anchorage, AK.
    A Ziggy Mural — Anchorage, AK.A Ziggy Mural — Anchorage, AK.A Ziggy Mural — Anchorage, AK.A Ziggy Mural — Anchorage, AK.

    Ziggy’s Murals

    17. mai 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 46 °F

    Leaving the port after picking up the RV & toad, Deniz and Mui went to Costco to fill up since we had only ¼ tank of fuel in each vehicle. While they did that, I returned the rental to Avis’s downtown office and walked back to the cottage ... all told about a mile-long walk.

    On the way to the cottage, some colorful murals that I had not seen before caught my eye. Turns out they were in the alley where Ziggy lives ... he’s the artist who painted them and others around Anchorage. I met him when he came out to investigate why his dog was barking in the backyard.

    My love of murals is well known, so no surprise I spent a few minutes capturing them for my mural gallery.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Knik River @ Eklutna Tailrace — Old Glenn Hwy ... Palmer, AK.
    The mountains of the Alaska Range from the Eklutna Tailrace — Palmer, AK.Looking upriver at the tailrace ... Eklutna Tailrace — Palmer, AK.Looking down the tailrace the blue color of the silty water is quite apparent — Eklutna Tailrace.One of the many abandoned cars @ the Eklutna Tailrace — Palmer, AK.The abandoned vehicle is a stark contrast to the beautiful scenery ... Eklutna Tailrace — Palmer, AKSpectacular ... with reflections on the Knik River ... Eklutna Tailrace — Palmer, AK.A "we are at the Eklutna Tailrace" selfie — Palmer, AK.Deniz finds himself a vehicle @ the Eklutna Tailrace — Palmer, AK.

    Abandoned @ Eklutna Tailrace

    17. mai 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    To get to the tour we booked for this afternoon, the GPS directed us to use the Old Glenn Hwy. That led to an unexpected stop along the way ... because the scenery was beautiful and also because we had some time to spare. The spot we dallied at was the Eklutna Tailrace.

    So, what is a tailrace? Merriam-Webster describes it as “a water channel below a dam or water mill.” In this case, it belongs to the Eklutna Hydroelectric Project. There is a small, artificial eddy of water that comes down from the plant and connects to the main stem of the Knik River. The water here is stocked with a variety of salmon, so it is apparently quite popular with anglers.

    The glacial-fed water of the tailrace was the typical blue-gray of rivers that carry glacier flour. We crossed the footbridge over the tailrace and took a short walk on a woodland trail. The mosquitoes were buzzing about … but they were not the biting kind … thank goodness.

    We followed a woodland path for a bit. Our walk led us to some beautiful views of a large body of water … might be a lake or one of the feeder arms of Knik River. Along the edge leading down to the water, we discovered junked vehicles … mostly the metal portions still remaining … peeking out of the ground here and there. Later, I read that junked cars have been used for erosion control along some of the rivers in the state. But the author speculated that this was different and that it’s more likely that easy road access and lack of population led to people simply abandoning vehicles here back in the day.

    The website suggests that the Eklutna Tailrace is not a place where you find solitude. Probably more than true when the salmon are running. We found it to be the exact opposite as we were three of just six people in the park today. This falls into the hidden gem category for us.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    A five-step ladder is the only way up into the bed of the truck — Knik Glacier Tour, AK.
    Crossing one of the "wet" channels in the truck — Knik Glacier Tour, AK.Our "airboat chariot" awaiting us for the ride to Knik Glacier — Knik Glacier Tour, AK.Heading out to the glacier — Knik Glacier Tour, AK.An accidental shutter click catches Mui with his "mickey mouse" ears ... the protective headset.Spectacular — Knik Glacier Tour, AK.A "we are at Lake George National Natural Landmark" selfie — Knik Glacier Tour, AK.Deniz tasting crystal clear glacier ice — Knik Glacier Tour, AK.Reflections for double the pleasure — Knik Glacier Tour, AK.A closer look at the ice — Knik Glacier Tour, AK.Mui enjoying the company of Molly, the Siberian Husky — Knik Glacier Tour, AK.

    Knik Glacier @ Lake George NNL

    17. mai 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    What an adventure this was!

    When I read about the Knik Glacier Tour written by blogger friends Mona Liza and Steve, I knew this was our best chance to give Deniz a chance to see a glacier.

    I waited to book the tour after we got to Anchorage as I wanted to be sure we had a good weather day. The forecast that was showing full overcast turned out to be completely wrong. We had lovely blue skies and big, puffy character-clouds ... with lots of sunshine. I know overcast is better for glacier-viewing, but I’ll take blue skies any day.

    I can write reams and reams of words about today’s tour. I’ll give you the condensed version. Suffice to say that it was awesome, fantastic, glorious, and any other synonyms you care to add.

    This is not a tour for anyone who has a bad back. Otherwise we would heartily recommend it. We met up with Tom, the tour operator, at his tour office. Here we were joined by another threesome, and a young guy from Alaska, traveling with Molly, his extremely well-behaved Siberian Husky. We welcomed his four-legged companion and off we went.

    First a 20-minute ride over a non-existent road that looked like a glacier outwash to me. The website said a 4WD van ... we were actually in an old troop carrier truck with a snorkel that allowed us to ford rivers. Bumpy is not the word to describe the drive ... bone-jarringly bumpy is. But it was all part of the adventure, so we didn’t mind ... too much. Bonus: moose in reasonable proximity ... but quickly hidden by the trees.

    Then, a 20-minute ride in an airboat powered by a 500HP engine. Noisy, yes. But we were provided with heavy duty headsets to block the noise. Normally, you go one way by airboat and one way by speedboat, but this early in the season, with few tours going out, we were on the airboat both ways. Bonus: another moose on a gravel bar ... but distant enough that I did not bother to take out the camera.

    Knik Glacier is part of Lake George National Natural Landmark...an area that Tom would like to see become a national park. He’s even willing to pull his business out of there should it become a reality. In any event, the glacier is one of the largest in the area.

    When we arrived at Lake George, we were greeted by a “necklace of icebergs” blocking our way to the inner lake and the terminus of the glacier. Tom said the winds determine access to the lake, which was open yesterday.

    No matter, a slow cruise along the edge of the glaciers was delightful. And then, we went ashore at Glacier Camp to play on the shoreline, and climb a short trail up the lateral moraine to get to the small camp. Hot beverages and snacks ... good conversation with our fellow tour-goers ... more time playing ashore ... watching crazy stunts being pulled by some of the pilots doing flight seeing over the glacier and lake ... simple solitude ... the squeaks of the ice breaking up. Simply amazing!    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    The old bridge over Knik River ... now a bridge to nowhere — Old Glenn Hwy ... Palmer, AK.
    Knik River and beautiful mountains from the Old Bridge from the Old Glenn Hwy — Palmer, AK.Underpass to cross the bridges that carry traffic over the Matanuska River — Palmer, AK.Matanuska River & the peaks of the Chugach Mountains — Palmer, AK.Dinner @ Turkey Red — Palmer, AK.

    Day 15 Ends in Palmer

    17. mai 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    OK, so we did have to drive back to Anchorage from Palmer, but this is the last post for the day, so that’s where we essentially ended things today.

    After our tour, we retraced our drive along the Old Glenn Hwy and then took a right to head into Palmer. Along the way, we made a couple of stops for scenery ... including one at the Bridge to Nowhere. We’re thinking it was the old vehicle bridge over the river, but now it’s just open to pedestrian passage.

    For dinner, we ended up at Turkey Red, featuring Mediterranean cuisine ... I’d say heavily leaning towards Greek cuisine. Casual place, good food ... though the flourless chocolate cake was a bust and we returned it.

    We have one more day left with Deniz ... and then we’ll be getting on the road in the RV.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    A "we are at Eagle River Nature Center" selfie — Eagle River, AK.
    Eagle River Nature Center ... Rodak Trail — Eagle River, AK.Salmon viewing platform ... Rodak Trail — Eagle River Nature Center, AK.Reflections to double our pleasure — Eagle River Nature Center, AK.On the Albert Loop Trail — Eagle River Nature Center, AK.So quiet ... except for the water trickling over the rocks — Eagle River Nature Center, AK.Gravel Bar along Eagle River ... Albert Loop Trail — Eagle River Nature Center, AK.Gravel Bar along Eagle River ... Albert Loop Trail — Eagle River Nature Center, AK.Another dinner @ the Glacier Brewhouse — Anchorage, AK.

    Day 16 Starts & Ends in Anchorage

    18. mai 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    While this was a busy day, it was also an easy day. Since it was Deniz’s last day before leaving for the Lower 48, and we wanted to get re-settled in the motorhome, we did not venture far.

    We started out with breakfast at our favorite casual eatery — Moose A’La Mode. As small as the place is, there is quite a selection on the chalkboard menu. Deniz had the Blitzen Biscuits and Gravy ... with reindeer sausage ... very tasty. Mui opted for the Alaska Breakfast ... with grilled reindeer sausage, two hot cakes, and two fried eggs ... also very tasty. My breakfast was a simple raspberry and white chocolate scone ... tasty if a bit on the sweet side.

    Then, we drove north to the Eagle River Nature Center. This is the same place we went to a few days ago but our plans were rained out. Once operated as a lodge, the land was sold to the Alaska State Parks in the 1980s. It is home to many miles of trails and has some public use cabins and yurts as well.

    As I understand it, the Crow Pass Trail — 23 miles one-way — is quite lovely, but that was more than we could tackle today. Instead, we hiked two of the mostly-woodland trails — the Rodak Nature Trail and the Albert Loop. I believe we did close to 5 miles. Very peaceful ... just chirping birds and creeks gurgling over the rocks. Except for a few people we encountered going the opposite way, we had the trails to ourselves. We managed to access the Eagle River for a short bit, and stopped at the beaver and salmon ponds as well ... great views but no critters.

    Returning to Anchorage, we stopped by the Ulu Factory for a few purchases. Then, Deniz went for a walk around the city. Mui and I grabbed a sandwich to share from Moose A’La Mode before returning to the cottage to start moving our stuff into the motorhome. We’ll do the fine tuning tomorrow.

    Dinner was at the Glacier Brewhouse. Though Deniz’s initial alder grilled salmon was overcooked, that was quickly rectified. Otherwise, it was another great dinner.

    Mui and I are now on our own as Deniz flew out of Anchorage late tonight. It’s been great having his company and seeing things through the eyes of a first timer to Alaska.

    ——————————

    For those interested in such things ... here are the details from our dinner.

    Drinks: Deniz … the Brewhouse’s Amber … with hints of chocolate and caramel // Me … house-brewed Root Beer … with sarsaparilla, sassafras, and a hint of vanilla // Mui … Merlot.

    Appetizer: buttermilk battered calamari with jalapeño chips and a jalapeño aioli … this time with a little more kick.

    Main Courses: Deniz … Alaska Alder Grilled Salmon … with lemon, garlic, vermouth butter; broccolini, baby potatoes, avocado lime verde // Me … the Fall Harvest Salad … from the starters menu … baby greens, shaved Brussels sprouts and apples, honey roasted sweet potatoes, pumpkin seeds, and organic quinoa … with a champagne vinaigrette // Mui … tonight’s halibut special ... cashew-crusted ... with roasted potatoes, Brussels sprouts, pineapple and red pepper chutney.

    Dessert to Share: the Chocolate Overload Cake … as yummy as it was last time.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Hooking up to get on the road — Anchorage, AK.
    Boondocking ... just 40 or so miles north of Anchorage, AK.View from our patio — boondocking in AK.This is the view we will enjoy from our dining table — boondocking in Alaska.

    Day 17 Ends at the Knik River Flats

    19. mai 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    When we drove up the Old Glenn Highway a few days ago, we spotted a place that looked like it would be great for boondocking ... a quiet place to rest for a day before we head up further north.

    Since the place wasn’t too far from Anchorage, we dallied a bit this morning to let the rush hour traffic settle down. By 10:00a we were on the road ... an hour later we were settled into what looks like the outwash plain of a glacier or river. In fact, the Knik River is just a short walk from us, but the gravel/glacial silt terrain has some dips and humps that we decided not to tackle with the motorhome. We’re close to the road but there is very little noise filtering inside the rig. At the moment, except for two distant vehicles, we’re the only ones here.

    At our spot, we have a meltwater creek on one side and mountains on the other side. Green trees add color to what has been a dull day. And breezy ... with gusts in excess of 30 mph. But our orientation is such that we didn’t feel much movement. Things have quieted down now, so it looks like the worst of the storm has moved on.

    With the wind and all the silt that was blowing around, we didn’t get to go out for a walk along the river. No matter, we fine-tuned the way we have the RV organized. I also got a chance to catch up on my footprints. Yes, that means that we have cell signal here — T-Mobile/GCI 3-bar LTE ... 4 bars when I put the phone near the signal booster. That’s pretty darn good.

    No SatTV, though. There’s a big ole mountain blocking the southern sky. No matter ... we caught 13 channels with the off-air antenna, so we managed to catch the news and Chicago Med to entertain ourselves.

    Despite the overcast, our solars have been doing well keeping the batteries charged up. The long days — 17 hours and 15 minutes tomorrow — are great for that. Loving this because we won’t have to use the generator much.

    Haven’t decided if we’re going to stay here another night or move on tomorrow. We’re going to wing it. We have six days to get to the campground at Denali National Park, which is only 217 miles away.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Site #8 ... Big Bear RV Park, Palmer.

    Day 17 Actualy Ends in Palmer

    19. mai 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    We’re not where we were two hours ago. Nope, we’ve moved on from our boondocking spot on the Knik River Flats to a campground in Palmer.

    Why? The party gang showed up around 9:30p ... loud music blaring ... bass pounding. Yes, there was only one van, but we didn’t know if more would show up.

    So, we decided to move on before it got much darker. After all, we only have 17+ hours of daylight these days, so it does get dark ... not that we’re awake to see it!

    When the van showed up, I was reading the Parks Highway section of the Milepost and had just come across an ad for the Big Bear RV Park. So, we headed 17 miles into the city to stay there. We lucked into an end unit in the “deluxe” section ... deluxe, I think, because there is decent spacing between the sites ... and there is 50A FHU.

    Mui’s already in bed. And I am about to follow. I’m sad that we had to give up our boondocking spot, but at least we’re guaranteed a peaceful night of rest here.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Not a critter in sight — Palmer Hay Flats SGR, AK.
    The amount of mud is simply amazing — Palmer Hay Flats SGR, AK.Only in Alaska ... forget the car, park an aircraft in the driveway — Fairfiew Loop Road, Alaska.Knik was a checkpoint on the Iditarod Trail Dog Sled Race route — Knik, Alaska.Knik Arm and the Chugach Mountains — Knik-Goose Bay Road, Alaska.Only in Alaska!

    Day 18 Also Ends in Palmer

    20. mai 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    After a good night’s rest we got up to another dull and drab day. What a change after all the blue skies and sunshine we had last week.

    Anyway, since Big Bear served us well last night, we decided to stay here another night and explore some of the side roads. With the help of the Milepost, we put together a loop drive —Knik-Goose Bay Road ... Burma Road ... Big Lake Road ... Parks Highway. In all, we did about 90 miles, including a detour to look for a bakery for some goodies for afternoon tea.

    The drive wasn’t very exciting, but it was better than just staying in the rig. The green trees lining the roads added color to an otherwise gray day.

    We checked out the Palmer Hay Flats State Game Refuge first. I was hoping that we might see some animals. Did see some “evidence” of them but no critters whatsoever.

    Knik was our next stop ... once a checkpoint on the Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race route. The museum was closed. But we did walk up the Iditarod Trail a bit because I had read that we could see another Athabascan cemetery with spirit houses from the trail. We did indeed glimpse them, but they were on the far side of a clearing.

    At the only real overlook on the road, we stopped to enjoy views of Knik Arm with the Chugach Mountains lined up like so many soldiers ... shoulder to shoulder. Nice today ... but I bet it would be spectacular on a blue-sky day.

    It was an otherwise quiet afternoon ... doing a bit of bookkeeping while we still have internet. The Wi-Fi has proven to be quite speedy ... a definite plus for this campground.

    We move on tomorrow. Not sure where we’ll end up. Maybe I’ll figure that out when I read the next Milepost section of the Parks Highway.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    South Rolly Lake @ Nancy Lake State Rec Area — Alaska.
    Our boondocking site along the Susitna River ... off the Parks Highway — Alaska.A "we are boondocking along the Susitna River" selfie — Alaska.The Susitna River Bridge ... reflection shot — Parks Highway, AK.Mountain view on the other side of the Susitna River Bridge — Parks Highway, Alaska.Enjoying our first campfire at the Susitna River boondocking site — Alaska.A nice warm campfire ... we thank whoever built the fire ring — Boondocking along the Susitna River.Nope, a little rain is not going to dampen our fun — boondocking along the Susitna River.S'mores time — boondocking along the Susitna River, Alaska.The aftermath of the rain — boondocking along the Susitna River, Alaska.

    Day 19 Ends On A Susitna Gravel Bar

    21. mai 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    An easy drive from Palmer today. We’re happy to dally along the way since our reservation at Denali National Park is still five days away. Our pace fits our “slow” style.

    We made a couple of detours along the way ... up to South Rolly Lake to check out the views ... and to a couple of boondocking sites we found on iOverlander. The sites were nice, but not what we were looking for.

    Lunch was at Kashwitna Lake, where we got one of our best views of Denali just one week ago. Today, the entire Alaska Range was in hiding.

    Around 2:00p, we arrived at our boondocking spot along the banks of the Susitna River. A peaceful and quiet spot ... only one other camper ... and that one tucked in along the tree line. That would change in the evening hours. The terrain here is perfect for ATVers, who apparently fill the area on weekends. We’d read about this, so we knew to expect them, but not in such numbers tonight. Also several “groups” of RVs arrived throughout the evening. Luckily, they’re all at the far end of the gravel bar ... out of sight unless we look out our windshield.

    Before everyone descended, however, we had several hours of peace and quiet. We found a spot for ourselves about midway between the trees and the water that was fairly level ... with an unobstructed view of the river. Once settled, we went for a walk along the river, stopping to chat with a local woman who had come here so her kids could blow off some steam.

    There are a number of stone fire rings all over the gravel bar ... one of them right at our spot. Perfect as Mui’s been wanting to make s’mores. We enjoyed the fire for a couple of hours ... the wind blowing the smoke away from us ... the heat very welcome as it was only 52F with no sun to keep us cozy.

    Even when it started to rain, we did not allow it to dampen our fun. Because our awning is on the other side of the Cruiser, we simply pulled out our umbrellas and continued to enjoy our afternoon tea.

    Eventually, the fire began to die down. Time to go inside and have dinner. Yes, we had our s’mores first, so our meal was upside down tonight!

    As planned, we’ll be moving on tomorrow morning.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Last night around 9:00p when the sun put in a brief appearance — Susitna River boondocking, AK.

    Lesson Learned

    22. mai 2021, Forente stater ⋅ 🌧 41 °F

    Slept well and woke up to a peaceful morning with rain pitter-pattering on the roof of the Cruiser. A drab morning ... but there is good news on the horizon as far as the weather is concerned, so that makes conditions like this morning palatable.

    Learned a lesson from our two camping experiences boondocking on gravel bars ... don’t expect any peace and quiet ... on weekends ... and probably anytime once summer is in full swing. Although, maybe I’m wrong about the latter as I can’t imagine anglers would tolerate ATVs buzzing about while they are trying to fish.

    Last night’s boondocking stop turned out to be worse than the Knik River Flats noise-wise as the locals showed up with their ATVs late into the night. Luckily, we were here early enough yesterday that we had about six hours of solitude to enjoy before rigs started arriving after work ... people were still coming in at 10:00p.

    Most of the RVers — several camping in large groups — were quiet, having a good time without disturbing others. But several families definitely had no respect for the rest of us ... with the adults in those families seemingly caring little for what the kids were up to.

    I know ... this is their state and we’re visitors here. I know ... it stays light until late into the night. I know ... summers are short and they want to make the most of it. I know ... boondocking is free and there are no stated rules. But buzzing about on ATVs well past 11:00p. Well, that just shows a lack of respect for fellow-campers. Thank goodness for good ear plugs!

    Lesson learned ... don’t camp on big gravel bars during the summer ... especially on weekends when people seem to want to play hard and long. At least we’re learning this lesson at the start of our trip and can attempt to apply it to the rest of the trip.

    Now for the silver lining ... it’s very quiet on the gravel bar this morning. Those who played hard last night are still a-bed. Despite the large number of rigs on the gravel bar, no one is parked where we can see them unless we get up and look out the windshield. Our view of the river remains unimpeded and peaceful. At the moment, we feel like we’re all alone here.

    We’ll be moving on as planned. Where we will end the day is still TBD ... but hopefully it will be a quieter spot.    Les mer

    Se oversettelse
  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    We were so lucky a week ago when we came up with Deniz — Denali SP Southview, AK.
    Today, Denali and the Alaska Range are veiled by rain and low clouds — Denali SP Southview, AK.Fear not ... we manage to "see" Denali with the Peak Finder app 🤪 — Denali SP ... Southview, AK.

    Denali State Park Southview

    22. mai 2021, Forente stater ⋅ 🌧 45 °F

    We left our boondocking site along the Susitna River around 10:00a ... just as the ATVs were revving up for the day.

    A detour onto Petersville Road did not yield anything exciting, so we returned to the Parks Highway to continue north. By this time, there was a steady rain to accompany our drive.

    Even though Denali and the Alaska Range were veiled from our site, we stopped at the Denali State Park Southview Overlook to take a short break that turned into two hours because, first we ended up having to call T-Mobile about a roaming issue, and then we stayed on to have a hot lunch on what was a damp and dreary day.

    We debated paying the $20 to use one of the parking lot campsites at this place, but decided to move on down the road instead.    Les mer

    Se oversettelse
  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Not our site, but many of the sites at the East Fork Chulitna Wayside still have snow — Alaska.
    Site #8 is one of the pull-throughs at the East Fork Chulitna Wayside — Parks Hwy, AK.View from our "patio" towards the Cruiser — East Fork Chulitna Wayside ... Parks Hwy, AK.Blue skies & sunshine replacing the overcast & rain — East Fork Chulitna Wayside ... Parks Hwy, AK.

    Day 20 Ends @ the East Fork Wayside

    22. mai 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    After our lunch break, we continued north on the Parks Highway, making a brief detour when we saw the barrier was open on the road to Byers Lake Campground. Alas, the road was open just so park volunteers could clear away tree debris ... the campground remains closed until 25 May.

    So, we kept driving, checking out the various turnouts listed in the Milepost and the boondocking spots on the iOverlander app.

    Around 4:00p, we pulled into what so far has been a great place for an overnight. It’s not boondocking per se because there is an actual campground here with designated sites, picnic tables, and either fire rings with grates or grills. No services, except for a pit toilet, so we’re dry camping. All this for the grand price of ... FREE!

    The sites here at the East Fork Chulitna Wayside accommodate various size rigs ... most of them back-in sites ... two pull-throughs for big rigs. We’re in one of those pull-thrus ... #8. The camping area is separated from the rest area and the highway by trees that muffle the traffic noise.

    The rain and overcast that accompanied us all the way here has since been replaced by patchy blue skies and a bit of sunshine. Though we can’t get down to the Chulitna River — there’s a big ole creek blocking our way — we can see some beautiful mountain peaks through the trees that separate us from the river.

    This campground has nothing to attract those who are looking for a weekend playground, so we expect that it will continue to be quiet here. The only other camper — coincidentally, also from Colorado — is at the other end of the campground, so we feel like we’ve got the whole place to ourselves. A nice change from last night.

    We’re taking the blue skies and sunshine as a good omen that the forecast for better weather the next few days is going to hold true🤞🏻.

    Now, if only we can resolve our data roaming issues, we’ll be good to go.    Les mer

    Se oversettelse
  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    A "we are at Broad Pass" selfie — Parks Highway, Alaska.
    Broad Pass ... looking east — Parks Highway, Alaska.1Maybe we should head south instead of north ... Broad Pass — Parks Highyway, Alaska.

    Broad Pass

    23. mai 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 36 °F

    The blue skies of last night were gone when we got up around 7:00a this morning. Nonetheless, there were patches of blue to our south and some clearing to our north ... both of which gave us hope that the weather would change.

    And it did ... but to snow flurries! Very light ... nothing sticking.

    When we arrived at Broad Pass — described in the Milestone as one of the most beautiful sections of the Parks Highway — the mountains on the east were out ... the mountains to the west were veiled and clearly getting some snow. Behind us it was all clear and sunny.    Les mer

    Se oversettelse
  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    1This spot at Joe Lake is all ours — Denali Highway, Alaska.
    Mui collecting tree debris from the trenches for a campfire ... Joe Lake, Denali Hwy, AK.1Snack and wine for lunch ... Joe Lake, Denali Hwy, AK.3Music to keep the bears away as we enjoy our wine ... Joe Lake, Denali Hwy, AK.The dusting of snow on the mountains is from today ... Joe Lake, Denali Hwy, AK.1A "we are at Joe Lake" selfie ... Joe Lake, Denali Hwy, AK.The view towards the far end of the lake ... Joe Lake, Denali Hwy, AK.1A little reading time with a view ... Joe Lake, Denali Hwy, AK.As the light breeze lets up ... the reflections appear ... Joe Lake, Denali Hwy, AK.39:30p ... double the pleasure ... peaceful ... Joe Lake, Denali Hwy, AK.

    Day 21 Ends @ Malone-Sligar Lake

    23. mai 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 43 °F

    And it ended quite early ... at 9:30a, in fact! But that was the plan anyway as we wanted to enjoy a very special place today.

    Anyone heard of the Malone-Sligar Lake? Maybe the namesakes will recognize where we are, but I guarantee no one else has heard of it 😄. At least not by that name.

    We’re actually at Joe Lake on the Denali Highway — about 8 miles in from Cantwell. Mui has taken to calling the lake Malone-Sligar because it was from Sue’s post describing their overnight stay here in 2011 that we first learned about this spot. Since then, I’ve seen it mentioned in the Milepost and on the iOverlander app as well.

    Although there is a primitive campground with fire rings just .3 miles down the road, we’re boondocking at the turnout ... it has much better views ... very expansive.

    It was overcast with snow flurries when we arrived, but patches of blue with sunshine filtering through gave us hope that we would be getting the clearing we were hoping. And we did ... after a few fronts moved through ... with snow flurries.

    But we didn’t wait for the weather to change in order to enjoy the place.

    Mui collected twigs and branches from the trenches along the road and started a campfire in the fire pit a previous camper had built. We bundled up, set out our camp chairs, turned on the music (to alert any bears in the area to our presence since our backs were to the wilderness), and simply enjoyed the grandeur of the Talkeetna Mountains across the water. Wine and snacks. Reading. Meditating. Contemplating. Staring at the “words cannot describe the beauty” type of scenery laid out before us.

    There was very little traffic on the road. Most of the vehicles just blew by ... we welcomed a few others who were just interested in a photo op. The rest of the time, it was just us ... ducks on the lake ... chirping birds in the trees ... wading shorebirds flying in to see us.

    Glorious ... simply glorious. Peaceful and quiet. Perfect.    Les mer

    Se oversettelse
  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    A "the end" shot of the red fox is all I get ... Joe Lake Boondock — Denali Hwy, AK.

    A Visitor Comes Calling

    23. mai 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 39 °F

    It was quite late at night. Mui was already sleeping. I had finished my writing for the day and moved over to Mui’s side of the dinette. I was reading a Kindle book ... which was taking longer than usual because I was getting distracted by the spectacular view outside the window. I caught a bit of movement out of the corner of my eye. “The shorebirds wading in the water,” I thought.

    Nope … it was a red fox, coming over to check us out and get a drink of water. It tiptoed to the slight dip behind the fire pit … lapped at the water … turned around … and we made eye contact. Wow! Before I could even call out to Mui, the fox was trotting up the road. Seconds later … it was out of sight.

    The whole experience lasted a minute … maybe less. Certainly not long enough for me to get my camera out. And my phone was in the basket … out of the way. I managed to get a “this is the end shot, through the windshield, but that was it. Another lesson learned … keep the phone handy at all times.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    2At 11:00p .. Joe Lake and alpenglow-bathed Talkeetna Mountains — Denali Highway, AK.
    2I'll have "tea on the rocks" please 😆 ... Joe Lake Boondock — Denali Hwy, AK.2Yes, it is that quiet ... Joe Lake Boondock, Denali Hwy, AK.1Yogurt with blueberries for breakfast ... Joe Lake Boondock — Denali Hwy, AK.Lesser Yellowlegs ... one of the many birds migrating to Alaska for the breeding season Joe Lake, AK

    Wake Up @ Joe Lake

    24. mai 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 34 °F

    No need for too many words.

    Went to bed with the Talkeetna Mountains bathed in the alpenglow of a sunset with blue skies — we get about 4 hours of “night time” that really doesn’t get very dark.

    Woke up to not-a-cloud-anywhere blue sky ... sunshine ... amazing reflections. The lake still ... the air still ... common goldeneyes a-swim ... lesser yellowlegs wading .... chirping birds the only sound for miles around.

    This was a place that was difficult to leave. But leave we did ... after breakfast-with-a-view ... after a 24-hour stay that was all that we’d dreamed it would be ... and more.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    There she is ... in all her glory — Denali from the Denali Highway, Alaska.
    From Fish Creek ... Denali (to the left) from Denali Highway, Alaska.

    Denali on Denali

    24. mai 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 46 °F

    Our second time getting lucky with seeing Denali with her “cloak” off on this trip.

    The first time was nearly 10 days ago ... enjoyed views from spots on the Parks Highway and the Talkeetna Highway. When we came through the same area two days ago, no luck. Denali and her Alaska Range cohorts were all in hiding.

    Then this morning ... poof ... and there she was ... this time from spots along the Denali Highway after leaving our Joe Lake boondock.

    We’re hoping for a few more opportunities to see the “Great One” as we will be in the Denali area for another 10 days or so.    Les mer

    Se oversettelse
  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Mile marker 216 ... Nenana River & Panorama Mountain from a turnout on the Parks Hwy, Alaska.
    Near mile marker 220 ... Nenana River from a turnout on the Parks Hwy, Alaska.A "we are by the river" selfie ... Nenana River from a turnout on the Parks Hwy, Alaska.

    The Nenana Along the Parks Hwy

    24. mai 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 52 °F

    With less than 40 miles to go to our next stop, we dallied along the Parks Highway as we headed north. Once we could see the Nenana River, we couldn’t resist stopping at turnouts for some photo ops.

    Se oversettelse
  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Pedestrian path to the Denali NP entrance ... where it begins to cross the Nenana Canyon — Alaska.
    2A "we crossed the Nenana River" selfie on the pedestrian path across the canyon — Alaska.1iPhone "long exposure" of the Nenana River — Alaska.Denali Rainbow Village RV Park ... empty this early in the season — Denali Park Commercial Area, AK.Denali Rainbow Village RV Park ... we're in Site 81 — Denali Park Commercial Area, AK.View of the mountains past the cabins and boardwalk shops — Denali Park Commercial Area, AK.View from our site towards the office -- Denali Rainbow Village RV Park ... Denali Park Comm Area, A

    Day 22 Ends @ the Boardwalk

    24. mai 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    Actually, we’re behind the Boardwalk in what is officially the Nenana Canyon Denali Park Commercial Area.

    The Boardwalk is a series of small buildings ... tour offices, shops, restaurants ... most still closed but some of them preparing to open for the Memorial Day long weekend that is just around the corner. Behind all these buildings is the Denali Rainbow Village RV Park & Cabins.

    We arrived here around noon, checked in, had a quick bite to eat, and set off to walk the pedestrian path ... which is about a mile to the Denali NP entrance. We walked two miles each way from the RV Park to the Riley Creek Mercantile in Denali National Park. Although the temp was only 66F, the full sunshine made it feel downright hot ... even in shirt sleeves we were overheated.

    The path goes past the huge Princess Cruises’ Denali Wilderness Lodge where we stayed in 2001 ... closed for 2021 due to cruise ships not crossing the Gulf of Alaska when they resume Alaska sailings this summer ... a big hit to the local economy. Then, a pedestrian bridge crosses the beautiful Nenana Canyon, with the river rushing by below. Only a couple of rafters were preparing to put into the river that sees far greater numbers in a normal year.

    Nearing Denali NP, we took a bypass through the woods — much appreciated shade ... plenty peaceful.

    At the Riley Creek Mercantile, we braved the nasty looks of a few patrons to pick up some delicious ice cream. Why the nasty looks ... because we forgot our masks 😷 in the rig and the store had none to give us. Although the masking rules have changed for those who are fully-vaccinated, the park is still requiring them indoors. Anyway, we covered up best we could while there and didn’t dally inside. After a quick look at the nearby campground — our next destination — we retraced our steps back to the Boardwalk.

    The Denali Rainbow Village RV Park is nothing special. A big gravel lot for RVs with some pull through sites and some back-in. Certainly a hard sell for us after our Joe Lake boondock. The park is still preparing for the season. We were only one of two rigs here last night.

    The campground does have several things going for it ... which is why we will be here for two nights. FHU sites and a laundry — which we need after several days of boondocking ... with nine days of dry camping ahead of us that we need to prep for; excellent T-Mobile data and cell signal (thanks to their partnership with the local company, GCI); convenience ... just one mile up the road from the Denali National Park Entrance. Oh, and yes, there are mountain views from our site.

    It is an expensive campground ... nightly rate around $60 with the Good Sam discount; bundles of campfire wood $10; laundry is highway robbery at $5 load to wash and $5 to dry. But it is a sellers market here, so we’ll just count the cost of this stay against all the boondocking we plan to do.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    2Can you find the Dall sheep in this photo? — Parks Highway, Alaska.
    2Closer look at the four Dall sheep ... I told you they were little more than white dots.Spectacular scenery where we found the Dall sheep — Parks Hwy, Alaska.The Nenana River is way down there — Parks Hwy, Alaska.Wild flowers — Parks Hwy, Alaska.Nenana River ... iPhone long exposure — Parks Hwy, AK.Nenana River ... flowing hard and fast — Parks Hwy, AK.A "we played along the Nenana River" selfie — Parks Hwy, AK.2Rafters on the Nenana River ... from the McKinley Chalet Resort — Parks Hwy, AK.An "enjoying the day" selfie with the Nenana River as our playground — Parks Hwy, AK.

    Along the Parks Highway

    25. mai 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Another beautiful day in the Denali area.

    Since we’re at this campground to prepare for our nine days of dry camping at the national park, that’s exactly what we did this morning. The only thing left to do is to top off our propane ... for which we need to drive about 8 miles north to Healy ... no propane sales anywhere in the immediate vicinity.

    This afternoon we headed out for a bit of sightseeing in the Healy direction ... and while we were at it, checked to make sure Three Bears in Healy is indeed selling propane.

    The highlight of our afternoon — other than the beautiful scenery and playing along the banks of the Nenana River — was four Dall sheep in the mountains. They were little more than “moving white dots” way up there. But we broke out the binoculars and enjoyed seeing them nonetheless.

    On the way back, we continued onto the Riley Creek Mercantile at Denali NP to ask a few more questions about the two campgrounds where we will be staying. Not only did we get our answers, but we’re now checked in for both campgrounds, have our Tek passes for the transit bus, and our confirmation for the Tundra Wilderness Tour. Excellent.

    Now all we have to do is show up at the Riley Creek Campground at 11:00a tomorrow and get settled in. We’ve already scoped out the loops and have a list of preferred sites to look for.    Les mer

    Se oversettelse
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