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North to Alaska By RV 2021
  • Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun
  • Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun

North to Alaska By RV 2021

With the US-Canada border closed due to the COVID-19 pandemic, we decided to ship our RV and toad to Anchorage and fly ourselves there to embark on a 14-week trip ... including the travel time required to get us to/from Tacoma. Les mer
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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Mew gull enjoying the sun — Valdez, AK.
    There are a number of bunnies hopping around downtown ... here's one — Valdez, AK.1Someone (or someones) had a productive halibut charter — Valdez, AK.1Mew gulls waiting for halibut scraps — Valdez, AK.Dinner at The Potato — Valdez, AK.

    Day 60 Ends @ The Potato

    1. juli 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Disembarking the Glacier Spirit after our Meares Glacier cruise, we wandered around downtown Valdez for a bit as we sought out a place for dinner.

    One of the recommended places was The Potato, the same eatery at which we had dinner in McCarthy a few days ago. Same menu ... same tasty food. This time I had the burger; Mui had the salmon salad wrap; and we both washed our food down with a couple of beers.

    Great food to end a great day in Valdez.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    The tree-covered peninsula in front of the mountain is where we hiked — Valdez, AK.
    Panorama of Duck Flats from the Dock Point Trail — Valdez, AK.Yummy halibut tacos at the Nat Shack — Valdez, AK.Solomon Gulch Hatchery — Valdez, AK.If we were two weeks later, we might see scenes like these — Solomon Gulch Hatchery in Valdez, AK.Solomon Gulch — Valdez, AK.1Valdez Glacier Lake — Valdez, AK.

    Days 61-62-63 End in Valdez

    4. juli 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    We planned our stay in Valdez as a “chill spot” ... with a bit of sightseeing.

    On our first full day in Valdez, we did the sightseeing by taking a cruise out to Meares Glacier. Then, we took two days off to just relax and enjoy some quiet time. Not much time outdoors, unfortunately, as the days were drizzly. And when the wind was blowing, it was downright chilly.

    Today, we did a bit of sightseeing again.

    Valdez filled up these past few days with people here to celebrate Independence Day. We opted to stay away from the crowds by staying away from the part of town that was set aside for the festivities.

    Instead, we walked through downtown Valdez and hiked the short Dock Point Trail. Then, taking advantage of the fact that most of the locals and visitors were at the community barbecue, we grabbed a bite to eat at the Nat Shack ... excellent (if spicy) halibut tacos.

    After lunch, we hopped in the car and drove out to the Old Valdez Townsite ... which was destroyed by the tsunami that followed on the heels of the Good Friday Earthquake of 1964 ... at 9.2 on the Richter Scale, the strongest quake to hit the USA. There’s nothing left of the town, but we did pay our respects at the memorial before moving on.

    Next up ... the Solomon Gulch Hatchery which can incubate up to 230 million pink salmon eggs and 2 million Coho salmon eggs. From what I gather, however, we are two weeks too early to see the action when a small percentage of the salmon born here return to spawn at the end of their lifecycle. But there was a great video that explained how the hatchery operates so all was not for naught.

    Our next two stops took us to lakes in the area ... Robe Lake and Valdez Glacier Lake. The glacier for which the latter is named is no longer visible from the lake. But there are icebergs to make up for that ... dirty though they were. Unfortunately, there is no way to walk around the entire lake, so we made do with a short stroll before returning to the Cruiser for a quiet evening at home.

    We’re now halfway through our Valdez stay ... and we have more sightseeing and relaxing to fillet those days.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Peaceful morning at the small boat harbor — Valdez, AK.
    Bald eagle (juvenile) with scrap halibut — Valdez, AK.Juvenile bald eagle dining on scrap halibut — Valdez, AK.Wild Celery (aka Cow Parsnip) is plentiful in the area — Valdez, AK.Another bald eagle encounter — Valdez, AK.Reflection of an eagle — Valdez, AK.Mew gulls waiting for halibut scraps to come down the chute — Valdez, AK.Mew gulls waiting for scraps to come down the chute — Valdez, AK.Fuschia blooms @ the campground — Valdez, AK.

    Day 64 Ends with Rain in Valdez

    5. juli 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Today was another day of R&R. Not that we stayed home all day. No, we went out for a bit of exercise mid-morning that took us from the campground to the small boat harbor, and then around to the south basin.

    Along the way we had a couple of close encounters with a juvenile bald eagle. He (or maybe it was a she) was engrossed in a piece of scrap halibut from a nearby fish cleaning station, which allowed me to get close enough for a couple of photos and videos. That was a good thing since the camera with the long lens was back in the Cruiser.

    On the way back, we decided to have lunch at The Fat Mermaid. The place was still full-up from the late breakfast crowd. So, despite the slight chill in the air, we sat on the patio to share a halibut basket and a walnut/mango salad. The food was very tasty. But the best part? Apart from the delicious lemon mascarpone cake we shared for dessert? The cocoa-candied walnuts in the salad.

    This would have been night for a campfire, but the wind has picked up a bit and it is raining ... more than just a drizzle this time. Oh well.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    The seascape leaving Valdez — Columbia Glacier Cruise in Prince William Sound, AK.
    A bald eagle surveying its domain — Valdez Arm, AK.We had a chance to see a purse seiner and tender fishing for salmon — Valdez Arm, AK.Old Man of the Sea — sea otter sleeping ... Valdez Arm, AK.Some of the icebergs we encountered on our cruise — Columbia Bay, AK.Black-legged kittiwake parent and chick — Columbia Bay, AK.Keeping clear of an iceberg discharged from Columbia Glacier — Columbia Bay, AK.An arm of the west branch of Columbia Glacier — Columbia Bay, AK.Blue terminus of Columbia Glacier — Columbia Bay, AK.Another arm of the western branch of the Columbia Glacier — Columbia Bay, AK.A misty visit to Columbia Glacier as we navigate through the brash ice — Columbia Bay, AK.Making our way through the calm waters amongst the islands — Valdez Arm, AK.

    Day 65 Ends @ Columbia Glacier

    6. juli 2021, Gulf of Alaska ⋅ 🌧 48 °F

    Had we stuck with our original booking for the Columbia Glacier Cruise, we might have had better weather. But we wanted to go out on a day when there were fewer people booked on the 149-passenger Glacier Spirit. We got our wish. There were only 50 people booked today. But we got caught out by rain and fog instead. And the waters of Prince William Sound were fairly rough at times ... especially on the return leg. C’est La Vie!

    Born in the Chugach Mountains, Columbia Glacier was first surveyed in 1794. At the time, it was at the mouth of the bay we traversed today. The glacier’s terminus remained there until the 1980s when it began a fast-retreat. To see Columbia Glacier this afternoon, we had to traverse 15 miles or so into the bay. The retreat will slow down when the terminus reaches bedrock. Whether it will then begin to advance is something no one knows.

    One of the things Columbia Glacier is known for is the amount of ice it discharges on a regular basis. The glacier did not calve for us today, but we did have to navigate through a lot of brash ice ... with the occasional iceberg that we stayed well clear of. Luckily, the captain was able to get pretty close to the west branch of the glacier, thus increasing visibility and improving our visit greatly.

    Our wildlife encounters were plentiful ... sea otters, sea lions, harbor seals, a couple of humpback whales, a pod of playful Dall porpoises, bald eagles sitting atop tree tops, orcas feeding not far from the boat. Alas, it was raining most of the time, so I refrained from taking out the camera, recording the encounters in my brain instead.

    Was the cruise perfect? No. But we made the most of the “weather hand” we were dealt and left the boat smiling after our trip.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Ivory carving from the Alaska Transportation Collection — Maxine & Jesse Whitney Museum in Valdez.
    Walrus ivory dancers — Maxine & Jesse Whitney Museum in Valdez.Inupiaq Doll from Point Barrow — Maxine & Jesse Whitney Museum in Valdez.Whalebone mask — Maxine & Jesse Whitney Museum in Valdez.Anatuvuk Mask — Maxine & Jesse Whitney Museum in Valdez.Yoke (Athabascan - Dot Lake) — Maxine & Jesse Whitney Museum in Valdez.Pen & ink drawing on sealskin — Maxine & Jesse Whitney Museum in Valdez.Exhibit at the Maxine & Jesse Whitney Museum in Valdez, AK.Exhibit at the Maxine & Jesse Whitney Museum in Valdez, AK.Animal mounts at the Maxine & Jesse Whitney Museum in Valdez, AK.

    Rainy Day Museum #1

    7. juli 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    When you’re in a rainforest, you expect that your days might be soggy. Valdez is set amongst a rainforest. Hence we had another rainy day ... perfect for museum visits.

    Our first stop was at the Maxine & Jesse Whitney Museum, which is associated with the Prince William Community College. Admission is free ... donations welcome.

    The website describes it as follows ... “See the wonders of Alaska through the eyes of a unique collector in Valdez, Alaska.” That’s exactly what we did. We enjoyed exhibits that included animal mounts, beautiful walrus tusk carvings and other indigenous art, and many other artifacts from around the state.

    This is a beautifully done museum and we’re glad we had a chance to visit it today.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Handpumped Fire Engine (1886) — Valdez Museum & Historical Archive in Valdez, AK.
    Bear gut (L) and seal gut parkas — Valdez Museum & Historical Archive in Valdez, AK.Alutiiq Mask — Valdez Museum & Historical Archive in Valdez, AK.Interior of a representative Copper River Basin prospector's cabin (c 1900-1935) — Valdez Museum, AKWebster electric washing machine (1913) — Valdez Museum, AK.1903 photo of the Wulff family at their home in Valdez — Valdez Museum, AK.1908 photo showing the Valdez-Fairbank sled coach leaving Valdez — Valdez Museum, AK.Historic photo from the Good Friday Earthquake — Valdez, AK.Map depicting the extent of the 1989 Exxon Valdez oil spill (note the red X at the top).

    Rainy Day Museum #2

    7. juli 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    Our second museum stop was at the Valdez Museum & Historical Archive.

    This museum has two buildings, but the one on Hazelet is open only on specific days ... and only to those who have made advance reservations. The building on Egan — senior/military admission $5pp — has exhibits that focus on native culture, early explorers, the oil industry, and more.

    As well, there was a temporary exhibit featuring drawings of the mill town of Kennecott. No photos, but it was interesting to us because we were in Kennecott just over a week ago.

    In addition to wandering around the exhibits, we took the time to watch the video about the 1964 Good Friday Earthquake. It was especially interesting since the story of the devastating earthquake was told by some of the survivors. I was under the impression that the 9.2 quake and the tsunami that followed in its aftermath had completely devastated Valdez. Turns out that wasn’t the case. But a new town had to be established nonetheless due to the instability of the site of the old town.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Trail of the Whispering Giants by Peter Toth — Valdez, AK.
    Kraken of Cape Hinchinbrook by B. Kroon — Valdez, AK.Eternity by S. Higgins — Valdez, AK.Statue dedicated to the men and women who built the TransAlaska Pipeline — Valdez, AK.Mural by Justin L — Valdez, AK.

    Day 66 Ends w/Public Art in Valdez

    7. juli 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    One of the info panels at the ferry terminal suggests doing a public art walk around Valdez to see sculptures and murals ... and refers visitors to the Civic Center for more info. The only problem with that suggestion? No one there knows anything about the walk. Nor does anyone at the Visitor Center or the Valdez Art Co-op.

    Nonetheless, we found a few pieces to photograph before returning to the Cruiser after our rainy day museum visits.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Fog and rain ... on and off ... all day — Valdez, AK.
    1Nice of the soggy weather to give us a break to build a campfire — Valdez, AK.Mew gull fledgelings make an appearance on the beach at the campground — Valdez, AK.A black oyster catcher also shows up on the beach — Valdez, AK.

    Day 67 Ends w/the Birds

    8. juli 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    Rain and drizzle falling from an overcast sky … fog filling the bay … fog lifting … rain stopping … fog filling the bay … fog lifting … rain and drizzle falling. Rinse and repeat.

    It was a lazy day for us here in Valdez. Not that we weren’t busy. In fact, we were … with chores as we prepare to get back on the road after an 9-day hiatus.

    Late in the day, we took a walk into town and had an early dinner at The Potato (aka the Roadside Potatohead). Good food as always.

    Returning to the campground, we took advantage of a break in the weather to light a campfire and chat with our neighbors. The screeching mew gulls that are nesting on the beach kept us entertained … and two of the fledgelings made their first appearance since our arrival here.

    Tomorrow, we retrace our route back up the Richardson. Eventually, we’ll make our way to the Kenai Peninsula … but first, a few other stops.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Bridal Veil Falls in Keystone Canyon — Richardson Hwy, AK.
    Matanuska Glacier from a turnout on the Glenn Hwy, AK.2Fireweed and white flowers I have yet to ID — Glenn Highway, AK.1Panorama of the lake where we are boondocking — Portage Glacier Road, AK.

    Day 68 Ends 355 Miles from Valdez

    9. juli 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    When we left Valdez this morning we weren’t intending to drive all the way to Portage.

    But despite the on and off rain — interspersed with the sun breaking through periodically — we made good time. In fact, it was only 1:00p when we arrived at the Glenn Highway turnout where I had planned to boondock with views of Matanuska Glacier … some 200 miles from Valdez. So, we decided to keep driving. And before we knew it, we were driving through Anchorage. Might as well drive all the way to Portage.

    We’re boondocking in front of a small glacial lake not far from the Begich-Boggs Visitor Center, which overlooks Portage Lake. It’s pouring outside … the wind is strong enough to create whitecaps on the lake … the mountain tops are wreathed in clouds that are likely dropping snow on the peaks … a distant glacier is veiled by fog. No matter. After a long drive, we’re happy to enjoy the scenery from inside the Cruiser.

    Our long day of driving has gained us an extra day. There are several options for things to do in the area. We’ll make a decision based on what the weather brings tomorrow.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Mui kayaking in Prince William Sound — Begich-Boggs VC ... Portage, AK.
    Mui makes friend with a mama moose nursing her calf — Begich-Boggs VC ... Portage, AK.Portage Glacier in B&W — Begich-Boggs VC ... Portage, AK.One of several interactive exhibits — Begich-Boggs VC ... Portage, AK.3-D model of Portage Valley & Pass — Begich-Boggs VC ... Portage, AK.Snowy owl mount & beaver skeleton — Begich-Boggs VC ... Portage, AK.In case you want to make your own glacier, here's the recipe — Begich-Boggs VC ... Portage, AK.

    Begich, Boggs Visitor Center

    10. juli 2021, Forente stater ⋅ 🌧 48 °F

    Wow! What a windy night we had at our boondock overlooking a glacial lake. And it never stopped raining throughout the night … not for one minute.

    It was still raining when we woke up. It continued to rain while we had breakfast and discussed our plans for the day … hiking was out on such a day; as was the cruise to Portage Glacier and the tram at the Alyeska Resort in Girdwood. It continued to rain as we headed over to the Begich-Boggs Visitor Center … overlooking Portage Lake.

    Our visit to Portage Lake this year is our third time here. The first time, in June 2021, the visitor center was already closed when we came back through the Whittier Tunnel. But we got to enjoy some amazing scenery at the ice-filled lake. In August 2010, there were no icebergs to enjoy … and our time was limited, so we took a pass on the VC in order to hike to Byron Glacier. This time we were bound and determined to visit the VC before continuing on with our plans.

    The interesting thing about this VC, which was built on the terminal moraine of Portage Glacier, is that it was designed to give visitors views of the glacier. Alas, by the time the VC was constructed, Portage Glacier had receded around the corner and there were no views of it to be enjoyed … though other views filled the void. Not today, however, as everything was veiled by the rain and fog.

    Despite the lack of glacier views, the VC is a great place to visit. We thoroughly enjoyed the movie … “Retreat & Renewal: Stories from Alaska’s Chugach National Forest.” The exhibits — many of them interactive — were also wonderful and very informative.

    A great place to spend an hour or so on a cold, rainy morning.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Resurrection South is one of the waterfront campgrounds — Seward, AK.

    Plans Jiggled

    10. juli 2021, Forente stater ⋅ 🌧 50 °F

    We have a ferry reservation out of Whittier on 13 July. So, the original plan was to arrive in the area on the 11th, spend a night in Portage and another in Whittier before getting on the ferry. But when we ended up driving from Valdez all the way to Portage on the 9th, those plans went by the wayside.

    Sure, we had plenty of ideas on how to spend the extra days in the area. The problem? They all required decent weather. So, as we were leaving the Begich-Boggs Visitor Center, we decided to head to Seward for three nights instead. After all, even if it continued to rain, there was at least one indoor activity we could do there. The downside was that we’d be driving the 80 miles back to take the ferry and then partway back to go to Homer after our ferry trip. The upside was that the new plan would free up our planned days in Seward and allow us to go somewhere new-to-us.

    So, we got back on the Portage Glacier Road and when we reached the Seward Highway, we turned south. It rained the entire way down to Seward. It rained when we stopped to switch our reservations. It rained as we set up in our temporary site at Resurrection South, one of the municipal campgrounds on the Seward Waterfront … temporary because there were no front-row sites available for tonight. No matter. We don’t have far to go when we move tomorrow.

    This place is little more than a parking lot, though the sites do have picnic tables and fire rings. There is one section of the campground that has W/E, but they’ve been reserved for quite some time, with no cancelations. So, we’re dry camping. To say that the sites are close-together would be an understatement. But we knew this when we decided this was where would be camping in Seward. It’s the waterfront location and its proximity to everything in town that drew us here. And that’s what we’re looking forward to for a few days starting tomorrow.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    One of several murals in the self-proclaimed "mural capital of the world" — Seward, AK.
    Resurrection Bay on a foggy day — Seward, AK.Resurrection Bay on a foggy day — Seward, AK.

    Day 69 Ends with a Stroll Around Seward

    10. juli 2021, Forente stater ⋅ 🌧 52 °F

    Once we were settled into our site, we donned our rain gear and went off to renew our memories of the time we spent in Seward in 2010. On that occasion, we’d seen the town under sunny conditions. This time, we would be seeing it under overcast and drizzly conditions.

    One thing that was the same as back then … the crowds. I can’t even imagine how much busier it would be if the cruise ships were coming up here this years. Not to mention all the RVers that have postponed their plans due to the border closure. Then again, those RVers have been replaced with Alaskans and the RV rentals I think. The town is filled to the gills. We’ll have to adjust to the crowds again now that we’re on the Kenai Peninsula.

    Anyway, the advantage of being at one of the waterfront campgrounds is that everything is walking distance. Shortly, we were at the small boat harbor, looking for the eatery where we had great halibut fish & chips in 2010. Alas, the place has since changed hands. The halibut portion of the dish was still good, but the fries … well, lets just say that they needed more time in the fryer.

    For dessert, we went to the Harbor Street Creamery for ice cream, which we enjoyed as we walked back to the campground. Instead of stopping when we reached our site, however, we kept going until we got to what I term the “Main Street” of Seward. A lot of familiar sights — including some of the murals that I photographed in 2010 — and some new ones.

    Eventually, we made our way back to the campground and settled in for a quiet evening at home.

    It’s been raining on and off since we got here. And there is nothing but rain in the forecast for the next few days. I’m hoping it won’t be constant, but hey … we’ll deal with whatever Mother Nature has in store for us.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Tucked into our waterfront site ... with our fire ring in the foreground — Resurrection South Cg.
    Our view of Resurrection Bay — Resurrection South Cg in Seward, AK.

    Moved from 458 to 481

    11. juli 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    We woke up to an overcast morning with one small patch of blue in the sky. The wind was strong. No rain, though.

    Since the rig in the waterfront site that we were due to move into showed no indication of leaving until the 11:00a check-out time, we went for a wander around Seward, stopping at our favorite café — the Sea Bean — to pick up a lemon-basil croissant to share and an iced coffee for Mui. The place was hopping — as it seems everywhere around Seward is. Although we’re fully-vaccinated, we have taken to wearing our masks again in light of such crowds.

    By the time we came back around 10:45a, the “dance of the rigs” was well underway. It was obvious that we weren’t the only ones moving from the less desirable second or third row to the first row … with unobstructed views of Resurrection Bay. We’ll be in #481 for our remaining two nights in Seward.

    When we came to Seward in 2010 we had only recently purchased our Phaeton, the rig that we replaced with the Cruiser when we decided to settle down in Colorado Springs. At the time, we saw all the rigs parked along the waterfront and said that we would join them someday. Well, 11 years later, here we are.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Portrait of a King Eider — Alaska Sealife Center in Seward, AK.
    King Eider performing its ablutions — Alaska Sealife Center in Seward, AK.Horned Puffin with a pair of Common Murre — Alaska Sealife Center in Seward, AK.Harlequin Duck — Alaska Sealife Center in Seward, AK.Tufted Puffin — Alaska Sealife Center in Seward, AK.Pigeon Guillemot — Alaska Sealife Center in Seward, AK.Red-Legged Kittiwakes — Alaska Sealife Center in Seward, AK.Horned Puffin in a nest box — Alaska Sealife Center in Seward, AK.Rock Greenling — Alaska Sealife Center in Seward, AK.Sea Pen dine on plankton — Alaska Sealife Center in Seward, AK.Moon Jelly — Alaska Sealife Center in Seward, AK.Feeding time for an unidentified critter in one of the aquariums — Alaska Sealife Center in Seward,

    Alaska Sealife Center

    11. juli 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    The Alaska Sealife Center is one of my favorite places to visit in Seward. The facility is not only an aquarium, but is also involved in marine research and education. As well, it is the only marine mammal rescue and rehab center in the state.

    After settling into our waterfront site at the Resurrection South Campground, we walked into town to visit the center. With the Alaska TourSaver two-for-one coupon, admission for the two of us cost $30+tax. Not a bad deal since the place has so much to offer visitors.

    Just as we did in 2010, we thoroughly enjoyed our visit today. The aquarium exhibits were great, but I was especially delighted with the open air pool where we were able to once again see some of the many seabirds and waterfowl that call Alaska home.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Where Mountains, Ice, and Ocean Meet (Artist: B. Birdsall) — Seward, AK.
    Furry Footprints (Master Artist: D. Bardarson) — Seward, AK.Orca painting at the AK Sealife Center (Artist: V. Rae) — Seward, AK.Sea Lions Chasing Herring (J. Haslet's 6th Grade Class; Kasuun Elem Sch) — Seward Sealife Center, AKOil finger painting of a tufted puffin (Artist: K. Schaefermeyer) — Seward, AK.Honoring Jujiro Wada, Iditarod Trail Pioneer — Seward, AK.

    Day 70 Ends w/Art in Seward

    11. juli 2021, Forente stater ⋅ 🌧 54 °F

    Although the forecast for every hour of today never shifted from showing high probability of rain, I don’t think a single drop fell today … at least not where we are.

    After our visit to the Alaska Sealife Center, we wandered into town and had a late lunch at the Lone Chicharrón, a taqueria that opened in Seward in 2019. Good tacos … I especially liked the fish tacos and the roasted corn tacos.

    Afterwards, we stopped at Sweet Darlings for some gelato … the best we’ve had in quite some time. Yummy, yummy!

    We took a meandering walk back to the campground, stopping to photograph some of the public art along our route. I’ll end today with some of those images, and a few I took at the Sealife Center.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Exit Glacier is part of Kenai Fjords National Park — Seward, AK.
    A "we returned to Exit Glacier" selfie — Seward, AK.1Exit Glacier from where the toe used to be in 2010 — Seward, AK.Blast from the Past ... us celebrating at the toe of Exit Glacier in 2010 — Seward, AK.Looking down at the outwash plain from the Glacier Overlook Trail — Exit Glacier.Along the meltwater flowing down from Exit Glacier — Seward, AK.

    Exit Glacier

    12. juli 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    One of the places we enjoyed visiting in 2010 was Exit Glacier … the only part of the Kenai Fjords National Park that is accessible by car, It is just a short drive from Seward.

    We knew to expect that the glacier has retreated considerably since 2010. In fact, we learned today that the rate of retreat is 11 inches per day. That’s more than 27 feet per month. I’ll let you do the rest of the math.

    What we didn’t expect was the crowds. The parking lot was full and we had to park along the road. The trail itself wasn’t bad, though there were some logjams along the way. But because there were so many people standing around at the overlook, I didn’t get to re-create the photo we took back in 2010. Instead, we had to make do with a quick shot.

    On the way back, we took the Outwash Plain Trail, which detoured down to the edge of the meltwater flowing down from Exit Glacier. The silty water was flowing fast and furious.

    Good thing we didn’t follow my initial plan to hike to the toe via the outwash plain. Not only would we have had too long of a hike with no discernible trail, we never would have made it across the roaring water.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Waiting for the traffic release at Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel — Portage, AK.
    Entrance to the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel — Portage, AK.Glacier in the mist while awaiting the traffic release at the tunnel — Portage, AK.Through the tunnel to arrive in Whittier.

    Thru the Tunnel to Whittier

    13. juli 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    We left Seward around 8:00a and some 80+ miles later we made the 10:30a “traffic release” for the Portage side of the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel.

    This toll tunnel is the only way to get to Whittier … short of coming in by water or air. It is shared by trains and vehicles, with timed entries on either side. Before this system was implemented, vehicles were loaded on flatbeds and brought through the tunnel by train. This is a simpler and faster way of making the 2.5-mile journey.

    When we came to Alaska in 2001, we came through the tunnel to go on a glacier cruise in the fjords of Prince William Sound. Today we’re here for … well, that’s for a later footprint.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Welcome to the Swiftwater Café — Whittier, AK.
    Al fresco dining with a view ... still our preference — Whittier, AK.Yummy halibut fish & chips @ Swiftwater Café — Whittier, AK.

    Fish & Chips @ Swiftwater

    13. juli 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    I’d read that people come all the way down from Anchorage and pay the tunnel toll just to have the halibut fish & chips at the tiny Swiftwater Café overlooking the small boat harbor in Whittier.

    So, once we got the parking arrangements for the Cruiser and toad taken care of, we headed into town, using the pedestrian pass that goes under the railway to get to the harbor area.

    Finding Swiftwater in this tiny town was easy enough. Since we were there before noon, we didn’t have to fight the crowds that normally fill the place. That there was al fresco dining in the back was perfect for us as we still prefer outdoor dining.

    Yes, the halibut fish & chips were as good as the reviews say they are.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021

    Our Boat Has Come In

    13. juli 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    Actually it’s the Alaska Marine Highway Ferry — the M/V Aurora — that has come in from Valdez. No, we’re not going back to Valdez. Rather, the ferry is going to take us to Cordova for a short getaway while the Cruiser and toad take some rest time in Whittier.Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Welcome aboard the M/V Aurora — Whittier, AK.
    Mural in the lobby of the Upper Deck — M/V Aurora.Forward Lounge on the Upper Deck — M/V Aurora.Mui's already enjoying the views from his seat in the forward lounge — M/V Aurora.The café is aft on the Upper Deck — M/V Aurora.Looking back towards the small boat harbor from aboard the M/V Aurora — Whittier, AK.Looking aft from the bow ... forward lounge with big windows ... bridge above — M/V Aurora.A "we're above the Alaska Marine Highway vessel M/V Aurora" selfie — Whittier, AK.Looking aft along the side passage — M/V Aurora.The flag fluttering in the breeze now that we are underway — M/V Aurora.

    Around the M/V Aurora

    13. juli 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    The M/V Aurora is one of the vessels in the Alaska Marine Highway System. At 235 feet long and 57 feet wide, it is one of the smaller boats. Thus, it is used to service smaller communities.

    Embarking the vessel at 3:00p, we took the elevator from the Car Deck to the Upper Deck and found a grouping of four seats in front of the big windows of the forward observation lounge. Not the most comfortable seats — they don’t recline like some of the others do — but they will be good for expansive views of the seascape as we make our way to Cordova via the Passage Canal, Wells Passage, and through Prince William Sound.

    The boat, named after the Aurora Glacier in Glacier Bay, carries 250 passengers and a number of vehicles. I’d be hard pressed to count 50 passengers on the vessel today. And here in the forward lounge there are no more than 20 people scattered about. Social distancing will definitely not be a problem. You can tell the people who are old hands at ferry travel as they have sleeping bags and blankets … methinks they plan to sleep most of the way on this 7-hour sailing to Cordova.

    Those passengers who aren’t sleeping can take advantage of the observation lounge (where we are), the solarium one deck up (open deck with a covered section and chaise lounges), the café (which has a hot line during specified hours), and the movie lounge (though no movies are being shown on this sailing that I am aware of).

    The forward deck on the bow has been opened up now that we are underway. That’s where I’m heading now … at least until we get into the open waters of Prince William Sound.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Billings Glacier — Passage Canal ... aboard the M/V Aurora.
    Waterfalls streaming down from the mountains — Passage Canl ... aboard the M/V Aurora.Mountainscape — Passage Canal ... aboard the M/V Aurora.1More waterfalls streaming down the mountains — Passage Canal ... aboard the M/V Aurora.Blackstone Glacier (I believe) — Passage Canal ... en route to Prince William Sound.Mui enjoying the views from the forward lounge — Aboard the M/V Aurora.

    Pond-Calm Prince William Sound

    13. juli 2021, Gulf of Alaska ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    It’s now 7:00p. We have four more hours to go before we reach Cordova. Like the narrow passages we sailed earlier, the Prince William Sound thus far is pond-calm. Though there are high clouds overhead, the light is bright and the aft decks are awash in sunshine. We’re delighted that the weather is cooperating for this late-in-the-day crossing from Whittier to Cordova.

    As M/V Aurora slowly made its was through Passage Canal and Wells Passage, I stood on the forward deck at the bow of the vessel and enjoyed the views. I was surprised that so few ventured out … and most of those who did went indoors after a photo or two. No complaints, I enjoyed having the space to myself.

    Since we’re in open waters now, I’ve joined Mui for “dinner.” We brought some light snacks for “dining with a view” from our seats in the forward lounge. While we do that, enjoy some of the sights our eyes beheld earlier.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Orca Bay — Aboard M/V Aurora ... en route to Cordova.
    Orca Bay — Aboard M/V Aurora ... en route to Cordova.Orca Bay — Aboard M/V Aurora ... en route to Cordova.Orca Bay — Aboard M/V Aurora ... en route to Cordova.Orca Bay — Aboard M/V Aurora ... en route to Cordova. Orca Bay — Aboard M/V Aurora ... en route to CShip's wake (iPhone long exposure) — Aboard M/V Aurora ... en route to Cordova.Orca Bay — Aboard M/V Aurora ... en route to Cordova.On approach to the ferry terminal in Cordova — Aboard M/V Aurora.

    On the Other Side of Prince Wm Sound

    13. juli 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    The sailing through Prince William Sound was calm and pleasant. As the evening progressed and the sun went back into hiding, it got considerably cooler, so I stayed in the forward lounge until we left the sound behind and entered Orca Bay.

    The M/V Aurora slowly threaded a route around the islands, being careful to stay in the to-us-invisible boat lane. With a big tidal range, these waters require careful navigation. With the forward deck on the bow closed for boat operations, I had no views of what was ahead as we approached Cordova, but the play of light and shadows behind the vessel was enough to keep my shutter finger busy.

    Passing by Orca Lodge after making the turn into the Orca Inlet, the vessel made what was essentially a u-ey around an anchored fishing boat and tied up at its berth at the ferry terminal just outside of the town-proper.

    Time to get off the vessel, pick up our car, and head to our hotel.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Dusk (by Alaska standards) view of the harbor from Room 206 @ the Reluctant Fisherman Inn — Cordova.
    Our no frills, but comfy room with a view — Reluctant Fisherman Inn ... Cordova, AK.

    Day 72 Ends @ the Reluctant Fisherman

    13. juli 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    We’ve made it.

    The Whittier to Cordova cruise aboard the Alaska Marine Highway ferry — the M/V Aurora — is complete.

    Though there was a bit of confusion around our rental vehicle (long story that I don’t want to get into at the end of a very long day), we have wheels to get us around the area.

    We’re settled into our harbor view room at the Reluctant Fisherman Inn, a short five minute drive from the ferry terminal. I’m so glad we changed our minds about renting a cabin from AirBnB and are in a hotel in town instead. We’re dead tired and a drive “out the road” would not have been fun.

    Time to put a period at the end of this day and get some rest. We have an early call tomorrow.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Can't resist reflections with lupines — Copper River Highway, AK.
    Glimpse of Sheridan Glacier — Copper River Highway, AK.Decorative window frame ... an unexpected touch — Copper River Highway, AK.The amazing color of silt-laden waters — Copper River Highway, AK.

    Out the Road

    14. juli 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    Our instructions for meeting Lucas Borer, our guide for today’s tour, were simple.

    “Meet me at mile marker 36 ‘out the road’. Bring your own food and beverages. I will provide the firewood.”

    Out the road … this is how the locals refer to the Copper River Highway, the only road here other than the streets in town. You see, there is no road linkage to Cordova from anywhere in Alaska. If you want to get here, you have to do so by boat or by plane. Hence, yesterday’s ferry ride.

    Designated a scenic byway, the highway is 48.6 miles long. But the road past mile 36 is indefinitely closed due to several wash-outs, including a bridge just past our meet-up point (in 2011) and the road itself at mile 45 (in 2018).

    The highway was built in 1945 on the abandoned railbed of the Copper River & Northwestern Railway … which used to link Cordova with Kennecott back in the days when the copper mines were still operational. In June, we saw the other end of the linkage between the mill town and the port town. Today we drove this end of the linkage. The section in between was to have connected to Chitina, but … well, let’s just say that the Good Friday Earthquake of 1964 brought those plans to a screeching halt. More on the why in a later post.

    Unsure of the road conditions, we didn’t make too many stops along the highway this morning … we didn’t want to be late to our meeting … a decision I would come to regret since we had rain on the way back and the views were hidden. But we had to get at least some shuteye after our past-midnight bedtime last night, so an earlier departure wasn’t feasible. It is what it is.    Les mer

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