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Egypt Revisited After 39 Years
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    Speak, WorldEgypt Revisited After 39 YearsSpeak, World
    Twelve hours of destinations from Rome. Where would you like to go?
    El Muizz Street in ancient Islamic Cairo. Newly renovatedTo enter mosques, Kathy lent me a scarf.Breakfast at the Nile Hilton with Greig, a wonderful pianist. After 40 years we meet again!Islamic Ceramic Museum in Zamalek. Stove from TurkeyAlas! This marvelous trip is over.Inspiration! This 85- year-old woman is from Rome, on her way to a tour of Iraq!

    Cairo: I end where I began

    11月26日〜12月2日, エジプト ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    En inglés y español:

    The first photo of this last Egyptian blog post is a 12-hour schedule of departures from Rome on December 2, 2025, where I was waiting to fly back to Mexico. I took it out of sheer wonder at the possibilities of places to visit and explore—and ultimately to get to know the world and myself a little bit better.

    I was in Cairo for the final 6 days of my trip. It is my pleasure to report that I achieved my goal of returning here after 40 years: I changed my negative, critical and judgmental attitude toward the place and the people. I accept Egypt, the country, with understanding of its problems, and pleasure in its unending and precious offerings. And I accept the people as they have accepted me: with attentive interest and sweet-natured friendliness.

    I had a wonderful conversion to being fascinated with ancient Egyptian history (before this, I couldn’t stand it!) and the beautifully well-thought-out presentations in Egyptian museums that invited me to explore it.

    I was treated like a queen, a celebrity, a fascinating presence by so many of the people I met. It only took eye contact or a word or two, and I had a new best friend at my side—helping me to cross a 6-lane busy street, asking me questions, saying I was intelligent and beautiful, joking and laughing, taking a photo together, and being kind and helpful.

    The Egyptian Arabic I worked so hard to acquire began to grope its way out of my mouth, gradually forming patterns of conversational chat that were useful for these initial contacts. But the best is yet to come: I am determined to return in November 2026 with much better Arabic as a gift for everyone who put up with my stumbling around.

    A highlight of my last days was a tour of Muizz Street with its many mosques from all periods of Egypt’s Islamic history. The photos are arranged simply with exteriors, and interiors, just to remember their beauty. I thank my friend Kathy Kamphoefner for her kindness in guiding me. The last photo, taken in Rome’s Fiumicino Airport, is the result of a conversation with an 85-year-old Roman woman waiting for her boarding time to fly to Iraq for a tour of its treasures. We agreed that we would both keep our curiosity vibrantly alive, always.

    El Cairo: termino donde empecé

    La primera foto de este último post egipcio es un horario de 12 horas de salidas desde Roma, el 2 de diciembre de 2025, cuando estaba esperando mi vuelo de regreso a México. La tomé simplemente por el asombro ante todas las posibilidades de lugares que una puede visitar y explorar… y, al final, para conocer un poquito mejor el mundo y a mí misma.

    Estuve en El Cairo los últimos 6 días de mi viaje. Me da muchísimo gusto decir que logré mi objetivo de volver aquí después de 40 años: cambié mi actitud negativa, crítica y juzgona hacia el lugar y hacia la gente. Acepto Egipto, el país, entendiendo sus problemas y disfrutando sus infinitas y valiosas maravillas. Y acepto a su gente tal como me aceptaron a mí: con interés atento y una dulzura de carácter que de verdad me llegó al corazón.

    Tuve una conversión maravillosa: ahora estoy fascinada con la historia del antiguo Egipto (¡antes no la soportaba!) y con las exhibiciones tan bien pensadas de los museos egipcios, que me invitaron a meterme de lleno a descubrirla.

    Mucha gente que conocí me trató como reina, como celebridad, como si fuera alguien súper interesante. Bastaba con un cruce de miradas o una que otra palabra y ya tenía a un nuevo mejor amigo a mi lado—ayudándome a cruzar una calle de seis carriles llena de coches, haciéndome preguntas, diciéndome que era inteligente y guapa, bromeando y riéndose, tomándose una foto conmigo, y siendo amable y servicial.

    El árabe egipcio que tanto me esforcé en aprender empezó por fin a salir de mi boca, tanteando el camino, poco a poco formando patrones de conversación que me servían para esos primeros contactos. Pero lo mejor está por venir: estoy decidida a regresar en noviembre de 2026 con un árabe mucho mejor, como regalo para toda la gente que tuvo paciencia con mis tropiezos.

    Uno de los momentos más especiales de mis últimos días fue un recorrido por la calle Muizz, con sus muchas mezquitas de todas las épocas de la historia islámica de Egipto. Las fotos están acomodadas simplemente entre exteriores e interiores, solo para recordar su belleza. Le agradezco a mi amiga Kathy Kamphoefner por su amabilidad al guiarme. La última foto, tomada en el aeropuerto Fiumicino de Roma, fue el resultado de una plática con una señora romana de 85 años que esperaba su hora de abordar para volar a Irak en un tour de sus tesoros. Las dos estuvimos de acuerdo en algo: mantener siempre viva, vibrante, nuestra curiosidad.    もっと詳しく

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  • Speak, WorldEgypt Revisited After 39 YearsSpeak, World
    Part of the outside of the New Library
    On the way to Alexandria: a container ship heading up the Suez CanalI said yes to a photo with this woman after she led me across six lanes of fast moving traffic.What one can do on each of the seven levels of the LibraryIn the Manuscript MuseumThe isles of the library are full of artworksThe Mursi Mosque, 13 th centuryThe ceilingBy the side of the Mursi MosqueLooking out from the library toward the MediterraneanA rest for a Turkish coffeeSt Mark Coptic Cathedral1The Hellenic burial groundTaxi driver and his tripletsThe New Library Reading RoomOutside the New LibraryOlder apartment buildings1Mursi Mosque restoration in progress

    Alexandria! The New Library and more

    11月23日〜25日, エジプト ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    En inglés y español:

    I’ve read Laurence Durrell’s “Alexandria Quartet,” I’ve read poems by Cavafy, I’ve read Alexandria’s history--about the lighthouse, the cosmopolitan mix of peoples, and most of all about The Library, the largest in the ancient world. I was even IN Alexandria in 1986 or 87—for about two days. But now I have a strong impression of the city, all because of the New Library, the Bibliotheca Alexandrina, built in 2002.
    As the library is located only a 10-minute walk from my AirBnb apartment, I went there the first day of my stay and fell in love with it—to the extent that I wanted to live in Alexandria when I come to Egypt again! It is dedicated to serve all people, all over the world, through its website. I love its reading room, museums, exhibitions, and architecture. I shall surely access its information when I’m away from Egypt.

    There is much information about the library online, and if you are interested, the Library’s own webpage gives you free access to all of its resources: https://www.bibalex.org/en/page/overview
    In addition, Snøhetta, the Norwegian architectural firm that won the contract to build it, has a marvelous description, and heavenly photographs:
    https://www.snohetta.com/projects/bibliotheca-a…

    I am very fortunately situated in Alexandria. After I explored the library the first day, I went to visit the magnificent 13th century Abu al-Abbas al-Mursi Mosque and the St. Mark Coptic Cathedral. The latter dates all the way back to 48 A.D. and has a long and virulent history.
    (Have a short look!) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saint_Mark's_Copt…

    I walked all the way back to my Airbnb on two of the biggest shopping streets of the city, practicing my Arabic all the time, with a notable seven distinct conversations and a lot of chit-chatting. I call the whole exercise of walking, looking and chatting “field work.” I wasn’t as exhausted as I was in Cairo, Suez and Ismailia, certainly due to the fresh air blowing south from the Mediterranean, and ever so much less air pollution and noise.

    On my second and final day in Alexandria, I really needed to take a walk after packing and tidying my apartment. I met two ladies in front of one of the campus buildings of the University of Alexandria (the entire campus is sprawled where I was staying) and they were not-too-subtly trying to get me interested in converting to Islam. I might not want to convert, but I was very interested to hear what they had to say. One was a professor of economics, so, lucky me. After a few minutes I left, and ran into an archaeological excavation of a Hellenic burial ground, a fascinating place, with a traumatic excavation history. This is a wonderful description of the place:
    https://greekreporter.com/2025/04/29/shatby-nec…

    Then I really did have to go to catch my 3 pm train back to Cairo. I had another lucky encounter with the taxi driver: a 32-year-old enthusiastic talker, and father of triplets! As we were in a traffic jam, I could ask him some questions, and he showed me their photos, etc. A GREAT conversation!

    I was helped to find my second class car and seat on the # 916, 3 pm non-stop train to Cairo. The first thing I saw as I was getting ready to sit down was a medium-sized cockroach, investigating me. I stomped my foot, and he/she retreated, but I was unnerved with my seatmate. Never mind, it was relaxing to ride “up” the Delta to Cairo. The Delta is called “Lower Egypt,” and the rest is called “Upper Egypt, which is weird when one looks at the map. I studied Arabic a bit, and then ordered boiling hot black tea from the man pushing the cart through the aisles. (Unchanged from 40 years ago). When we pulled into Cairo three hours later, the cockroach reappeared, climbing up the window next to me. Time to get off the train.

    ESPAÑOL

    Alejandría: La Nueva Biblioteca y otros tesoros

    He leído “El Cuarteto de Alejandría” de Laurence Durrell, he leído poemas de Cavafy, he leído la historia de Alejandría—sobre el faro, la mezcla cosmopolita de pueblos y, sobre todo, sobre La Biblioteca, la más grande del mundo antiguo. Incluso estuve EN Alejandría en 1986 o 87—como por dos días. Pero ahora sí tengo una impresión fuerte de la ciudad, todo gracias a la Nueva Biblioteca, la Bibliotheca Alexandrina, construida en 2002.

    Como la biblioteca está a solo diez minutos caminando desde mi departamento de Airbnb, fui el primer día que llegué y me enamoré… tanto que hasta pensé que quiero vivir en Alejandría cuando vuelva a Egipto. Está dedicada a servir a todas las personas, en todo el mundo, a través de su sitio web. Me encanta su sala de lectura, sus museos, exposiciones y su arquitectura. Segurísimo voy a consultar su información cuando ya no esté en Egipto.

    Hay muchísima información sobre la biblioteca en línea, y si te interesa, la página oficial te da acceso gratis a todos sus recursos: https://www.bibalex.org/en/page/overview
    Además, Snøhetta, la firma noruega de arquitectura que ganó el proyecto, tiene una descripción maravillosa y fotos divinas:
    https://www.snohetta.com/projects/bibliotheca-a…

    Estoy muy bien ubicada en Alejandría. Después de explorar la biblioteca el primer día, el segundo fui a visitar la magnífica mezquita del siglo XIII Abu al-Abbas al-Mursi y la Catedral Copta de San Marcos. Esta última se remonta nada menos que al año 48 d.C. y tiene una historia larguísima y bien intensa.
    (Échale un ojito.) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saint_Mark's_Copt…

    Regresé caminando hasta mi Airbnb por dos de las calles comerciales más grandes de la ciudad, practicando árabe todo el camino, con siete conversaciones bien distintas y un montón de platiquita. A todo ese ejercicio de caminar, mirar y platicar le digo “trabajo de campo”. No acabé tan exhausta como en El Cairo, Suez e Ismailia, seguramente por el aire fresco que sopla desde el Mediterráneo, y porque hay muchísimo menos contaminación y ruido.

    En mi segundo y último día en Alejandría, de verdad necesitaba caminar después de empacar y dejar el departamento arreglado. Conocí a dos señoras frente a uno de los edificios del campus de la Universidad de Alejandría (todo el campus está regado por la zona donde me quedé) y, la verdad, me estaban intentando convencer—bastante directito—de convertirme al islam. Quizá no quiera convertirme, pero sí me interesó escuchar lo que querían decir. Una era profesora de economía, así que, mira qué suerte. Después de unos minutos me despedí, y luego me topé con una excavación arqueológica de un cementerio helénico, un lugar fascinante, con una historia de excavación bien traumática. Aquí hay una descripción padrísima del lugar:
    https://greekreporter.com/2025/04/29/shatby-nec…

    Ya después sí tenía que irme para alcanzar mi tren de las 3 de la tarde de regreso a El Cairo. Tuve otro encuentro afortunado con el taxista: un chavo de 32 años, súper platicador y papá de trillizos. Como estábamos atorados en el tráfico, le pude hacer varias preguntas, y él me enseñó fotos y todo. ¡Una conversación GENIAL!

    Me ayudaron a encontrar mi vagón y asiento de segunda clase en el tren 916, el de las 3 en punto, directo a El Cairo. Lo primero que vi cuando me estaba acomodando fue una cucaracha mediana que venía a investigarme. Pisé fuerte y se echó para atrás, pero la verdad sí me puso nerviosa tenerla de “compañera”. Pero bueno, fue relajante avanzar “hacia arriba” del Delta hacia El Cairo. Al Delta le llaman “Bajo Egipto” y el resto es “Alto Egipto”, lo cual se siente rarísimo cuando una ve el mapa. Estuve estudiando árabe un rato y luego le compré un té negro hirviendo al señor que empuja el carrito por los pasillos. (Igualito que hace 40 años.) Cuando llegamos a El Cairo tres horas después, la cucaracha reapareció, subiendo por la ventana junto a mí. Ya era hora de bajarme del tren.    もっと詳しく

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  • Speak, WorldEgypt Revisited After 39 YearsSpeak, World
    My Airbnb hostess, Mona
    My bedroomThe living roomMy daily breakfastThe Ismailia Railroad StationAt the Suez Canal Museum--the on.y photo allowedA guide with a perfect East End London accent--from his teacher!A second after taking this "cute" picture, the mother and two others jumped up and growled viciouslyOn the street: a snack sellerThe Coptic Church of St. George the GreatThis basket lowering is also done in Naples, and---?I bought a bottle of cold water from this woman.Very pleasant and conversational.The largest mosque in IsmailiaSunset over Timsaw Lake, just to the west of the Suez Canal1I said: Egypt is beautiful, and me too!

    Ismailia: On an Inspired Whim

    11月20日〜22日, エジプト ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    En inglés y español

    Actually, Ismailia is a big city of 300,000 people, but it has a very small “city center,” and a 40-years-ago atmosphere in the streets and neighborhoods. I liked it, on the whole.

    I stayed in a room in an Airbnb family apartment, inhabited by the 66-year-old Mona, a widow, and Abdul Rahman, her 27-year-old son, who is a telephone cable repairer. The Airbnb host, Ahmed, 26, is an up-and-coming international something-or-other in Dubai. The home itself is totally old-fashioned, with the popular curliculed 19th century style furniture, and massive beds without sheets or pillows. I was completely perplexed by how things worked: how to use the toilet without paper (an in-toilet bidet stream); how to sleep in a bed without a pillow or sheets (just support your head on a folded part of a blanket, cover with another blanket—they are all cotton—and fall asleep); or when or where to wear shib-shib’s, indoor slippers (only in the hallways, and to be shed if there is any carpet or rug) etc. Also, the family spoke no English, so nothing was explained to me, because there was nothing to explain: they had no clue that everything was strange for me. But we managed to communicate, and I soon grew fond of them. They were idiosyncratic, though. Ask me about it in a private communication.

    Ismailia is a small town with a big population. It is one of the hubs of Suez Canal management, and is buzzing with permanent employees, and greatly expanded with temporary workers from India, China, and the Philippines—everyone with Canal Authority Housing, medical and recreational facilities, and whatever else needed to keep them comfy.

    I found two places I loved. The first was the Suez Canal Museum--such a wonderful history of the canal. I’ve come to see that the Egyptians are first-class museum creators, getting the best architects, exhibition hall designers, historic materials, material contextualization (translators, historical interpreters) and overall appeal. I was extremely interested in how the history of the Canal was laid out, from the beginning efforts to create it, to Jessep’s involvement, to the construction, and then, finally to the nationalization under Nasser. At the end, there was an AI-generated film of Abdul Gamal Nasser meeting with a famous lawyer, discussing why nationalization was necessary. Very life-like and well done.

    The second place was a compound of Coptic Churches in the city center. I entered, and asked the men at the gate if I could have a look. Before I knew it, I was having an audience with the elderly priest who officiates at the two churches there, replete with black robes and cap, a long white beard, and a lovely smile. The combined congregation numbers two thousand families, so I was honored that he spent time with me. He was kindly and friendly, asked me questions, gave me a few gifts, and after a short while asked if I’d like to see the churches. He called another churchman to take me around, and we parted. The tour was lovely, and iconic, literally, as the Copts are still making icons to decorate their churches. (See the photos.)

    Otherwise, I just wandered around, looking at things, and chatting with people. I like to practice Arabic because everyone is DYING to talk to me! No uptightness or reserve here. (It’s probably only because no foreigner has spoken Arabic before, if indeed they have ever met a foreigner.) At any rate, I was in language-learner’s conversation heaven.

    En español:
    Con una familia egipcia y experiencias notables

    La verdad, Ismailia es una ciudad grande, con unas 300,000 personas, pero su “centro” es chiquitito y las calles y los barrios tienen un aire de hace como 40 años. En general, me gustó.
    Me quedé en un Airbnb que es el depa de una familia: ahí vive Mona, una viuda de 66 años, y su hijo Abdul Rahman, de 27, que repara cables—sobre todo de teléfono—y está ocupadísimo. El anfitrión de Airbnb, Ahmed, de 26, es un joven que va en ascenso en algún trabajo internacional raro allá en Dubái. La casa en sí es totalmente a la antigua, con esos muebles del siglo XIX llenos de curlicues, y camas enormes sin sábanas ni almohadas. Yo no entendía absolutamente nada de cómo funcionaban las cosas: cómo usar el baño sin papel (tiene un chorrito tipo bidet dentro del excusado), cómo dormir en una cama sin almohada y sin sábanas (nada más doblas una parte de la cobija para apoyar la cabeza, te tapas con otra cobija—todas son de algodón—y listo), o cuándo y dónde usar los shib-shib, las chanclitas de andar en casa (solo en los pasillos, y te las quitas si hay alfombra). Además, no hablaban nada de inglés, así que nadie me explicó nada, porque para ellos no había nada que explicar: ni idea tenían de que todo eso para mí era rarísimo.
    Pero nos las arreglamos para comunicarnos, y pronto les tomé cariño. Eran bien peculiares. Pregúntame en privado y te cuento más.
    Ismailia es un pueblo chico con un montón de gente. Es uno de los centros de administración del Canal de Suez y está llenísimo de empleados permanentes, además de muchísimos trabajadores temporales de India, China y Filipinas—todos con vivienda de la Autoridad del Canal, servicios médicos, áreas recreativas y lo que necesiten para estar cómodos.
    Encontré dos lugares que me encantaron. El primero fue el Museo del Canal de Suez—una historia preciosa del canal. Me he dado cuenta de que los egipcios son de primera para hacer museos: contratan a los mejores arquitectos, diseñadores de salas, historiadores, traductores y gente que contextualiza el material, y todo queda súper atractivo. Me interesó muchísimo cómo cuentan la historia del Canal: desde los intentos iniciales para crearlo, la participación de Jessep, la construcción y, al final, la nacionalización con Nasser. Al terminar, había un video hecho con IA donde Gamal Abdel Nasser conversa con un abogado famoso sobre por qué era necesaria la nacionalización. Súper realista y muy bien hecho.
    El segundo lugar fue un conjunto de iglesias coptas en el centro de la ciudad. Entré y les pregunté a los hombres en la entrada si podía echar un vistazo. En un dos por tres, ya estaba teniendo una audiencia con el sacerdote mayor que oficia en las dos iglesias, vestido con túnica negra, gorrito, barba blanca larguísima y una sonrisa preciosa. Entre las dos iglesias suman unas dos mil familias, así que fue un honor que me dedicara tiempo. Era muy amable y cálido, me hizo preguntas, me dio unos regalitos, y al ratito me preguntó si quería ver las iglesias. Llamó a otro miembro de la iglesia para que me diera el recorrido, nos despedimos y listo. El tour estuvo hermoso, e icónico literalmente, porque los coptos todavía fabrican iconos para adornar sus iglesias. (Tengo fotos.)
    Fuera de eso, solo me la pasé caminando, viendo cosas y platicando con la gente. Me encanta practicar árabe porque ¡TODOS se mueren por hablar conmigo! Aquí no hay rigidez ni pena. (Seguramente es porque nunca una extranjera les ha hablado en árabe, si es que han conocido alguna extranjera en primer lugar.) En fin, estaba en el paraíso de la conversación para una estudiante de idiomas.    もっと詳しく

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  • Speak, WorldEgypt Revisited After 39 YearsSpeak, World
    2
    The Suez CanalPracticing my Arabic spellingMy room in The Red Sea HotelMe in front of the feast with Sally, my Arabic teacherMeeting at last!1What is in this tree?Roosting herons!A calligrapher to admire

    In Suez—so different from before

    11月19日, エジプト ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    Before leaving Cairo, I left my unused food and clothes for cold weather with the woman living next door to me in Dokki, and got a car to Suez. I used a new-to-me service called “inDrive” and got a driver, Mohammed, who took me from my door in Cairo to my Airbnb location in the city of Suez. (About 86 miles.) The only difference between inDrive and Uber is that the driver
    is paid a pre-decided price in cash at the end. My price was $17 USD.
    Mohammed was very quiet for the first of the two hours, and then we began to chat when I asked for an Egyptian song I liked 40 years before, and which he LOVED, so that was a good choice! My biggest question on the trip was, “Where is the desert?” Forty years ago, from Cairo to Suez was stark desert, but now it’s a very fast highway, lighted all the way, and lined with large electricity towers. Cairo extends way out toward the east, and Suez seems to reach out a great way from the Canal toward the west as well. There actually was no desert along
    this route! I said that to Mohammed as best I could, and then we chatted lightly until we arrived in Suez, and he was paid, and left to drive back to Cairo.
    I was so pleased with this chatting, that I was primed for meeting my Airbnb hosts. I couldn’t find the property, so a very kind man left his morning coffee to help me, as he spoke English. But the hosts didn’t exist. The property didn’t exist. The phone number belonged to someone else. It was a disaster! Something like this has never happened with Airbnb, after 87 stays. The kind man helped me find a hotel, on the edge of the Suez Canal. The hotel “Lucinda” is practically right on the Canal, so I went out at night to look at it—a fabulous sight in the dark. And right on the sand, many bean bags were set out, and a film (Egyptian) was in progress, so my last “deed” of the day was to sit down and watch. Much to my surprise, a “host” brought the movie audience free candy and popcorn!

    The highlight of the next day was a long and joyous meeting with my italki Arabic tutor. She took me out to lunch to eat my favorite Egyptian foods (stuffed grape leaves, and a soup called “mulukhiyya”) and other things beside. A feast! For the first hour, we spoke only Arabic together. That was extremely interesting for me, because I quickly realized what my grammatical lacks are. We switched to English and spent the afternoon and evening getting to know each other—an absolutely rapturous meeting, the first for both of us to meet an Italki student/teacher face to face. She also drove me around the city of Suez—full of Canal-related workers with their own housing, recreational facilities, etc. It is also a fast-growing Egyptian
    city—so different from the much smaller one of 40 years ago. (327,000 in 1986, 801,000 today.)

    My second day in Suez, November 19, I didn’t do much because an intestinal bug (from a salad at breakfast??) attacked me around 12 pm, and knocked me out for the rest of the day. I happened to be in the quite commendable Suez National Museum, so I can’t believe that I got back to my hotel without incident. It was because of the enormous and delicate help of some ladies on the museum staff. Then a friendly taxi driver drove me back to my hotel, where I rested in my room until finally in the evening I thought to ask my rescuer from the non-sexistent AirBnb two days ago for help. He angelically brought some much-needed medication to my hotel.
    Tomorrow I shall go from Suez to Ismailia, along the Suez Canal.

    Be sure to see the last photo: of a container ship moving through the Suez Canal.    もっと詳しく

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  • Speak, WorldEgypt Revisited After 39 YearsSpeak, World
    Family resemblance
    Entrance to the "Hanging Church" or "The Church of the Virgin Mary," in Coptic CairoMy first conversation in Arabic with a child, age 10My friend Shireen, a kindred spiritThis and following photos from the National Museum of Egyptian Civilization. Greek-influencedCoptic iconographyCoptic textilesCoptic Old TestamentAlso Coptic!Greek style iconographyIslamic: the traditional covering of the Kaaba, sent from Egypt for many decadesIn a cafe with an Egyptian guide. She wanted the photo because she liked my Arabic!2Well, this is definitely worth a photo, from the café in the museum of Egyptian Civilization1A stylish check for coffee and snack1Cairo Opera House, lit up for a performance3The street where I bought my fruits and vegetables. Find the cat!

    Daily Cairo Visits and Endless Arabic

    11月16日, エジプト ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    En inglés y español

    As the introductory picture shows, there are also genetically-linked street dogs in Cairo. But there are tens of thousands more cats.

    My following days in Cairo, (November 13-16) were all mornings spent studying Arabic, afternoons in different parts of the city, and evenings writing blogs, daily language-learning updates for a special workshop/class, and my personal language travel project of learning and conversations.

    I visited Coptic Cairo’s Coptic Museum, and “Hanging Church.” The Copts definitely laid the foundation for the Islamic arts to follow— except for the icons, of course. Another day I went to the National Museum of Egyptian Civilization. The latter is one gigantic room, with displays of only the most exquisite and important items in Egyptian history, from the earliest pharaonic times, to the Greek, Roman, Coptic and Islamic eras, and finally a few important leaders’ significant belongings, and a four displays of tribal peoples’ creations. Underground is a display of the mummies of many of the greats of pharaonic history: think Ramses II and Queen Hatsepsut. ( No photos allowed.) This museum is a magnificent achievement.

    I’m haven’t been a tourist, so this blog has few photos or comments. But the ones that are included represent subjects that impressed me greatly.

    En español:
    Como muestra la foto introductoria, también hay perros callejeros con rasgos genéticos distintivos en El Cairo. Pero hay decenas de miles más gatos.

    Mis días siguientes en El Cairo (del 13 al 16 de noviembre) fueron todas las mañanas estudiando árabe, las tardes en diferentes partes de la ciudad y las noches escribiendo blogs, actualizaciones diarias de mi aprendizaje del idioma para un taller/clase especial, y trabajando en mi proyecto personal de viaje lingüístico hecho de estudio y conversaciones.
    Visité el Museo Copto y la “Iglesia Colgante” en el Cairo Copto. Otro día fui al Museo Nacional de la Civilización Egipcia. Este último es una sola sala gigantesca, con exhibiciones de solo los objetos más exquisitos e importantes de la historia egipcia, desde los primeros tiempos faraónicos, pasando por las eras griega, romana, copta e islámica, y finalmente algunas pertenencias significativas de líderes importantes, además de cuatro exhibiciones de creaciones de pueblos tribales. Este museo es un logro magnífico.
    No he sido una turista, así que este blog tiene pocas fotos o comentarios. Pero las que sí incluí representan temas que me impresionaron muchísimo.    もっと詳しく

    翻訳をご覧ください
  • Speak, WorldEgypt Revisited After 39 YearsSpeak, World
    1Al Azhar Mosque
    Hussein Mosque1Mint tea!Falafel and Egyptian breadDown from Damietta for the dayNational Museum of Islamic Art4An old stately home contrasted with a modern apartment blockTahrir Street1Ahmed Amin Street (mine)

    Old Cairo: Fondly Remembered Mosques

    11月13日, エジプト ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    En ingles y español:
    I began a nostalgic exploration of my Cairo of 39 years ago on November 9. I went to the holiest mosque, that of El Azhar, in the great complex of El Azhar University, a world center for Islamic studies. It has a stunning internal square, paved with pure white marble tiles, which are replaced every year. Then, nearby, was Al Hussein Mosque, where I went to the women’s prayer area. This is a particular favorite for foreign Muslim women, who were hard to match for pure piety.

    I rested afterwards in a small street restaurant, with mint tea and falafel. So delicious! There I had a friendly meeting with two friends down to Cairo for the day from Damietta, a large city in the Nile Delta. Khan El Khalili is a giant market maze nearby, and I skirted the edges. The salespeople were so tenacious in their invitations to enter their small shops that I didn’t dare take any pictures!

    My final stop was the National Museum of Islamic Art, which I didn’t visit 39 years ago. A lovely place with rooms of lanterns, ceramics, calligraphy, arms, etc., which also showed the history of each category, though briefly. I was with a guided tour in English given by a museum volunteer, along with a family from India. Afterwards, I went back to look at my favorite works.

    The two videos at the end show the ultra-busy Tahrir Street (note the couple crossing lanes of oncoming traffic) and my street, parallel to Tahrir, one block up: so serene and quiet.

    El Viejo Cairo: Mezquitas Queridas y Más
    Empecé una exploración nostálgica de mi Cairo de hace 39 años el 9 de noviembre. Fui a la mezquita más sagrada, la de El Azhar, dentro del gran complejo de la Universidad de El Azhar, un centro mundial de estudios islámicos. Tiene un patio interno impresionante, pavimentado con losas de mármol blanco puro, que se reemplazan cada año. Luego, muy cerca, estaba la Mezquita Al Hussein, donde entré al área de oración para mujeres. Es una favorita especial entre mujeres musulmanas extranjeras, que eran difíciles de igualar en pura piedad.
    Después descansé en un pequeño restaurante de calle, con un té de menta y falafel. ¡Deliciosísimo! Tuve un encuentro muy agradable con dos amigas que bajaron a El Cairo por el día desde Damietta, una ciudad grande en el Delta del Nilo. Khan El Khalili es un enorme laberinto de mercados cerca de ahí, y yo sólo bordeé los alrededores. Los vendedores eran tan tenaces en sus invitaciones a entrar a sus tienditas que ¡ni me atreví a tomar fotos!
    Mi última parada fue el Museo Nacional de Arte Islámico, que no visité hace 39 años. Es un lugar encantador, con salas de linternas, cerámica, caligrafía, armas, etc., que también mostraban la historia de cada categoría, aunque brevemente. Fui con una visita guiada en inglés ofrecida por una voluntaria del museo, junto con una familia de la India. Después, regresé para ver mis piezas favoritas.
    Los dos videos al final muestran la ultra concurrida calle Tahrir (fíjate en la pareja cruzando los carriles del tráfico que viene de frente) y mi calle, paralela a Tahrir, a una cuadra: ¡tan serena y tranquila!    もっと詳しく

    翻訳をご覧ください
  • Speak, WorldEgypt Revisited After 39 YearsSpeak, World

    Cairo after 39 Years

    11月8日, エジプト ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    An Apartment in Dokki (written Nov. 7-8)
    En inglés y español
    I arrived in Cairo five days ago, on November 3rd, and settled into a “desirable” part of the city called “Dokki.” Kathy Kamphoefner, my friend from 39 years ago, came to Cairo International Airport at 6:30 pm to meet me. In the hour-long nighttime drive to Dokki, I saw a different Cairo: gleaming, shining, huge, inviting—with enormous buildings covered in neon. When we arrived at 4 Ahmed Amin Street, we took the elevator to my 5th floor efficiency apartment, I put the luggage on the bed, and we kept our reunion catch-up going until 1 am!

    In the daytime of November 4th, I ventured out in the afternoon along Tahrir Street, a main thoroughfare, to buy food. I passed the Dokki metro station; 40 years ago, the very first station was being built, and now there are 3 lines with 84 stations! I soon found the neighborhood market street, 10 blocks long, and I could buy all needed household and personal supplies, plus my staple vegetables, fruits, salt, and cooking oil. It was the Cairo of 40 years ago, but the street was paved, and the garbage was swept up neatly for the daily collection, instead of being strewn in the street.

    In the following four days, I did the daily food shopping, ventured out alone one mere kilometer toward the city center (I was afraid and intimidated to go out at first!) studied Arabic like crazy in my apartment, and got mentally and physically settled. I also met Kathy and her husband Paul for breakfast one day, earsYears
    in which I received a gentle orientation to present-day Cairo.

    November 8, I joined Kathy for a luncheon meeting of a recently-formed ex-pat group of ladies in their 60’s and 70’s in beautiful Azhar Park, bordering on the famed Islamic University of El Azhar, and the heart of Old Cairo. Somehow I couldn’t relate what I saw to the Cairo of 40 years ago. At all. I wondered how I could possibly have felt it all so familiar way back then. And how could I get re-acquainted? That will be in the next blog post!

    Please enjoy the photos. The one video shows what it’s like to be surrounded by adolescents who were all dying to talk to us and have their photo taken with us. They had to be chased away by park security, eventually…

    Llegué a El Cairo hace cinco días, el 3 de noviembre, y me instalé en una zona “deseable” de la ciudad llamada Dokki. Kathy Kamphoefner, mi amiga de hace 39 años, vino a buscarme al Aeropuerto Internacional de El Cairo a las seis y media de la tarde. En el trayecto nocturno de una hora hacia Dokki, vi un Cairo diferente: brillante, reluciente, enorme, atractivo… con edificios gigantes cubiertos de luces de neón. Cuando llegamos al número 4 de la calle Ahmed Amin, subimos en el ascensor hasta mi pequeño apartamento en el quinto piso. Puse el equipaje sobre la cama y seguimos poniéndonos al día hasta la una de la madrugada.

    Durante el día, el 4 de noviembre, salí por la tarde a la calle Tahrir, una avenida principal, para comprar comida. Pasé por la estación de metro de Dokki; hace 40 años estaban construyendo la primera estación, ¡y ahora hay tres líneas con 84 estaciones! Pronto encontré la calle del mercado del barrio, de unas diez cuadras, donde pude comprar todo lo necesario para la casa y para mí, además de mis básicos: verduras, frutas, sal y aceite de cocina. Era el Cairo de hace 40 años, pero ahora la calle estaba pavimentada, y la basura se recogía ordenadamente para la limpieza diaria, en vez de estar tirada por todas partes.

    En los cuatro días siguientes, hice las compras diarias de comida, me aventuré sola apenas un kilómetro hacia el centro (¡al principio tenía miedo y me sentía intimidada al salir!), estudié árabe como loca en mi apartamento, y logré establecerme mental y físicamente. También me reuní con Kathy y su esposo Paul para desayunar un día, y recibí de ellos una amable orientación sobre el Cairo actual.

    El 8 de noviembre me uní a Kathy para un almuerzo con un grupo de recién formadas expatriadas, todas mujeres de entre sesenta y setenta años, en el precioso Parque Azhar, que bordea la famosa Universidad Islámica de El Azhar y el corazón del Viejo Cairo. De alguna manera, no podía relacionar lo que veía con el Cairo de hace cuarenta años. En absoluto. Me preguntaba cómo era posible que todo me hubiera resultado tan familiar en aquel entonces. ¿Y cómo podría volver a reencontrarme con esa ciudad? ¡Eso lo contaré en el próximo blog!

    Disfruta las fotos. En el video se puede ver cómo es estar rodeada de adolescentes que morían por hablar con nosotras y tomarse fotos con nosotras. Al final, el personal de seguridad del parque tuvo que dispersarlos…    もっと詳しく

    翻訳をご覧ください
  • Speak, WorldEgypt Revisited After 39 YearsSpeak, World
    1The terrace on the 6th floor of my Cairo apartment
    1Egyptian cats are pharaonic! Note the tall ears and triangular faces1My standard vegetable mix, with local traditional breadThe Nile, facing north, at the tip of the island of ZamalekThe Cairo Opera house, built by the Japanese during my stay 39 years agoIn beautiful Al Azhar ParkI started speaking VERY ELEMENTARY Arabic from the start, trying to stick with only ladiesA group of young students who wanted to speak with us--small at first, but grew alarmingly!With my friend from long ago, Kathy Kamphoefner3Setting up Arabic study in a cafe overlooking the Nile

    An apartment in Dokki

    11月3日, エジプト ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    I arrived in Cairo five days ago, on November 3rd, and settled into a “desirable” part of the city called “Dokki.” Kathy Kamphoefner, my friend from 39 years ago, came to Cairo International Airport at 6:30 pm to meet me. In the hour-long nighttime drive to Dokki, I saw a different Cairo: gleaming, shining, huge, inviting—with enormous buildings covered in neon. When we arrived at 4 Ahmed Amin Street, we took the elevator to my 5th floor efficiency apartment, I put the luggage on the bed, and we kept our reunion catch-up going until 1 am!

    In the daytime of November 4th, I ventured out in the afternoon along Tahrir Street, a main thoroughfare, to buy food. I passed the Dokki Metro Station; 40 years ago, the very first station was being built, and now there are 3 lines with 84 stations! I soon found the neighborhood market street, 10 blocks long, and I could buy all needed household and personal supplies, plus my staple vegetables, fruits, salt, and cooking oil. It was the Cairo of 40 years ago, but the street was paved, and the garbage was swept up neatly for the daily collection, instead of being strewn in the street.

    In the following four days, I did the daily food shopping, ventured out alone one mere kilometer toward the city center (I was afraid and intimidated to go out at first!) studied Arabic like crazy in my apartment, and got mentally and physically settled. I also met Kathy and her husband Paul for breakfast one day,
    in which I received a first gentle orientation to present-day Cairo.

    November 8, I joined Kathy for a luncheon meeting of a recently-formed group of ex-pat ladies in their 60’s and 70’s in beautiful Azhar Park, bordering on the famed Islamic University of El Azhar, and the heart of Old Cairo. Somehow I couldn’t relate what I saw to the Cairo of 40 years ago. At all. I wondered how I could possibly have felt it all so familiar way back then. And how could I get re-acquainted? That will be in the next blog post!

    Please enjoy the photos. The one video shows what it’s like to be surrounded by adolescents who were all dying to talk to us and have their photo taken with us. They had to be chased away by park security, eventually…    もっと詳しく

    翻訳をご覧ください
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