Imperial Capitals Bike Ride

July - August 2023
A 12-day adventure by John Read more
  • 19footprints
  • 5countries
  • 12days
  • 165photos
  • 0videos
  • 1.8kkilometers
  • 1.2kkilometers
  • 510kilometers
  • 18kilometers
  • Day 8

    Hungry in Hungary

    July 28, 2023 in Hungary ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Surprised to see drab, grey skys. At least the most was made of the sunshine yesterday. Bizarre mixture of things for breakfast & no rolls to cadge for lunch. Still, a relatively early start. Across the tram and bike bridge which had seated quiet areas half way across & when you think about it as bridges go it is relatively quiet. Even had a guy doing some painting. Once off the bridge the cycle lanes were hit & miss. When resorting to the road, again the shoulder was erratic in quantity to the point werey there was none & the verge was used. Relieved to hit the cycle route. First stop - Gerulata Roman fort. Got there to find it closed. In fairness it did look a little underwhelming. Pushed on towards the Danubiana Modern Art Museum. Not really my thing but the surroundings looked nice. On arrival, again it looked closed but thankfully not. Decided to bite the bullet and ignore the jazz music being piped in. From the roof you got a sense of it almost being an island & it was quite tranquil. A lot of the stuff was a bit pretentious but it was a nice walk / break from cycling. There were some sun loungers down by the river which helped the relaxation. And I learned something - Andy Warhol was of Slovak heritage - his birth name was Warhol's, with both his parents being from Slovakia. Only about 10 miles down 40 to go and the vast majority was straight as a die along the Danube. Sounds idyllic - cycling along the river but it became a little tedious. Little things became the focus - watching the swifts dancing around catching insects. The grasshoppers jumping out of my way. Pings as they hit the spokes & thuds if it was the panniers. One landed on the handlebars - realised its mistake and scarpered. Ended up racing one of the barges & made it to the lock complex 1st. Watched it go through, which was interesting. All this & not a shop in sight. Definitely hungry & thirsty. Google suggested a shop just off the route - assured it was open. It was not. Pushed on over the border & was given the choice - motorway or shitty gravel track. Given how much of a bully boy the police looked at the border, gravel was chosen. Amazed at no puncture & still no shop. First shop located with 7 miles to go. The shop keeper recounting a Queen song to me - happy soul - the shop itself seemed a little forlorn. Pop and chocolate to get me through. Priority on arriving in Gyor was rehydration salts. Not enough drink & too much sweating.Read more

  • Day 9

    Hopping over the border.

    July 29, 2023 in Slovakia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    An alfresco breakie for once this trip and not a bad spec either in the hotel courtyard. Once packed, had a little mooch around Gyor then headed off. Wasn't long before the cycle lanes began & this time we weren't talking a mess of gravel. The surface was superb and didn't peter out. Negotiated some industrial stuff and then it was into the rural heartland. For a while the route followed a little river and this is more, albeit naively, what I expected from the Danube Way. Crossing back and forth, fields filled with different crops and exploring little villages. Made it to the first main stop - just under half way by about 10ish. Good going. A 1900's ish fort, which according to Google was closed. On arrival (just in case) the greeting was soldiers being shouted at (or was it me?) Bit uneasy. Saw some people walk past them and be ignored so it looked like it was open. Well done Google again. Had an interesting little explore, watching the people play at being soldiers and yet another view of the Danube. Onwards & back across the border to Slovakia again to Europa Court - a plaza modelled on the architectural styles of each European country. Had an ice cream and enjoyed the mist spray coolers.Read more

  • Day 9

    A strange Hungarian version of St Helens

    July 29, 2023 in Hungary ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    Post ice cream, it was back over the border to Hungary and the bike lanes continued though in places they were labelled as tractor / horse and cart lanes - no matter at least the mad drivers weren't my concern. Getting across the numerous level crossings however was - lethal. Next stop was the lakeside resort of Tata - lunch stop and with only 10 to go. Settled down in a shady spot by the lake, watched the comings & goings both on the lake and lakeside. Very pretty - also quite busy. From here Tatabanya was signposted but strangely it was unclear when it began. Before getting to the hotel I went through various districts (ish) and none seemed central. Lots of Soviet looking tower blocks then in a stone's throw you seemed to be back in the sticks. Just down the hill from the hotel were three supermarkets all next to one another & nothing else. That is apart from the athletics stadium the hotel overlooked and the mining museum round the corner from Aldi. Clearly it was formerly a mining town but felt more like lots of little towns. On arrival the provincial theme continued - Not a word of English & she wasn't keen on Google's attempts either. At the moment Google isn't doing so well for me. In fairness she hunted down the AIRCON remote for me. Once cooled down decided to have a little look at the mining museum. Unsurprisingly no-one spoke English though one of the other people visiting suggested she'd translate the tour guide. Didn't think that was fair on her so photographed the map & key and mooched on my own. Interesting window on life in Soviet times. Back to the hotel & thunder was rumbling as was an athletics meet. As the heavens opened I sat on the balcony watching the athletes compete in the rain. Decided to opt out of walking to the rather distant restaurants that might or might not be open according to Google. Lidl was definitely open and close enough.Read more

  • Day 10

    Some you win, some you lose.

    July 30, 2023 in Hungary ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    Relatively lazy start to the day. Breakie was at 8 and the cycle could be anywhere from 36 - 55 miles depending on the weather and the forecasts were not promising. Checked out & almost got away without paying. She came dashing out after me. Not that it was that pricey. It was at that point the rain came. Sheltered for a while but at some point it was a grin and bear it situation because there was no imminent prospect of better. A matter minutes and I was soaked. A matter of a couple of miles and a pot hole and the first puncture of the trip. Some vague shelter under a tree and some road side bike servicing I claimed to enjoy - pah! Was a swift replacement inner tube job except when back on the road there was a regular thud. Checked that no spokes had gone - the wheel was still true(ish) - think the pothole buckled the other way and it was both annoying and concerning. Nothing to be done though, other than worry. Pushed onto to the solitary stop - the Pancho Arena - one of the most unique football stadiums in the world, built for a 3rd tier (at best) team. It just happens to be the president's home town - I'm saying nothing more... A bit further than expected but in a village a stadium kind of stands out. Followed signs for home and away fans & no-one was at the gate so just sailed through. Started the usual circumnavigation of the stadium and as luck would have it, there was a gate open. Parked up and had a little explore. A lady went through at the same time & said nothing. A couple of other people were around and equally ignored me. Carried on to the front, quite unique. Took in the statue of Puskas and the private parking spot of the president right by the VIP entrance. Carried on round to where I was planning to come in and was roundly shooed out and away as was a Swiss guy I got chatting to. The guard wasn't for tourists taking photos. Told him there wasn't a guard at the other entrance & wished him luck. Clearly luck evens out, not that the rain stopped, nor the thumping from the wheel. Ah well. Classic rolling terrain and rain - all felt very British and mad drivers getting way too close. On the last climb into Budapest, some old guy greeted me at the summit with a round of applause. Wouldn't get that in the UK. Downhill to the hotel and dryness.Read more

  • Day 10

    Dry at last.

    July 30, 2023 in Hungary ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Took quite a bit of cleaning - particularly the legs. Clearly not the cleanest of roads. Fair bit of chilling while eating lunch then boredom took hold. The weather had cleared - it was dry so out & about. Simple walk along the Danube to admire the Parliament building that was modelled on the UK version. Figured I'd go down to the crooked bridge then come back. Unfortunately it ballooned somewhat - the bridge back - the chain bridge was closed to pedestrians so it became a bit longer and the sun was out so also a bit hotter. Good to get a handle on the distances and where things are. Saw the memorial to those killed by the Nazis in the war. Apparently they were lined up on the bank, told to take their shoes off and shot. Quite a striking monument. Got back and needed some cooling off time then back out for tea. Thai - had to be. On the way back took in sunset on the Liberty Bridge.Read more

  • Day 11

    Marriage photo mayhem.

    July 31, 2023 in Hungary ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Agonised, the previous night, over when to go up to the Fisherman's Bastion. When would the sun be in the best place, when would it be quietest, when would the queues for the funicular be the most humane. Didn't really decide but did read that before 9 they didn't charge & really early it can be quite quiet - like sunrise early - big ask but I was awake at 5. Free & quiet were big selling points. Could up and back in time for breakie. The decision was made. In addition it was pleasantly cool. Lots of steps up though but the views were stunning, that's if you could get to them through the raft of wedding photos going on. Couldn't quite get my head round it. Was it before the wedding - if so I presume they don't subscribe to the unlucky seeing the bride thing. If they do then it must be after & by that token at 6 it is well after. Anyway probably photo bombed a few. The top levels were free at this time but on going up an irate restauranteur gave 10 tonnes - gave a little back but neither really understood. Moved onto the other top tier where he couldn't see. Again had to put up with Oriental photo perfection but at least there was only 1 couple rather than multiple. Back down for breakie.Read more

  • Day 11

    Creaking bike.

    July 31, 2023 in Hungary ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    The original plan had been to visit Momento Park - a collection of Soviet relics - on the way in from Tatabanya but the copious rainfall had put paid to that. However the suspect noises being produced by my poor battered bike had steadily got worse over the day & it seemed prudent to see how it coped with the distance needed to get to the airport. Cut to the chase - it wasn't happy - the rear bearings sounded bad after just a couple of miles. Thinking to be done. Got to the park to find it opened at 10. Half an hour of thinking time. Found a well reviewed bike mechanic on the route back. Pop in & see what they say. The park eventually opened & they were definitely going for the Soviet memorabilia. Interesting take on displaying rather than destroying. Particularly liked the Trabbie - they must've been grim though. Apparently you had to put a deposit down of half the cost and you'd wait between 8 - 10 years for delivery. Made out of cotton waste and resin - the world's first recycled vehicle (ish) Back to base via the bike shop and the first slot available was 20th August - not much use. He was very apologetic. More thinking to do and a bit of chatting with the old man. Opted for a taxi to the airport.Read more

  • Day 11

    Chimney cakes.

    July 31, 2023 in Hungary ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Got back to discover the Sunset stand up boarding tour along the Danube I'd booked had been cancelled. They claimed due to the weather - the sunny forecast suggested otherwise. Decided to go to the local thermal baths - something that Budapest is famous for. Little bit of a walk but it might de-stress. Very slick operation though the rules took a bit of following. Had to get a swimming hat, had to shower before & after, had to have some slippers. Think the last one got lost in translation - flip flops or sandals. Anyway, it's probably one if the most ornate places I've swam in. The main pools were cool but the thermal pools were nice & toasty - could've easily dozed off. Chopped and changed between pools. Nice to finally get a swim in this holiday. Eventually succumbed to reality & headed out. Across the river was the famous market hall. Had a little wander & couldn't resist trying the chimney cake - kind of like a coiled doughnut but less greasy. Very nice. Then back to pack...Read more

  • Day 12

    Inside knowledge.

    August 1, 2023 in Hungary ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Kind of hoped that everything that could have gone wrong did yesterday. Trip cancelled, bike struggling & bike shops not able to help. The big concern was a taxi turning up and taking one look at the bike bag and scarpering. In fairness the hotel had been made aware & had repeatedly maintained that all was well. Until the bike was at Budapest airport, then all was not well and as a consequence sleep eluded me. Went for a final stroll along the Danube and things seemed quiet enough. Had a little check on Google to see the expected travel time and it said 30 mins of traffic jams. Now obviously Google hasn't covered itself in glory this trip but concern set in, despite giving a ridiculously early arrival time. Decided to decamp to the reception so when the taxi got in it was a quick turnaround. In fairness he was 20 mins early and he had an estate car - back seats down and we were away. Very chatty - interested in what I had done, very keen to talk about Liverpool's new Hungarian signing - level headed and brought up the right way. All sounds good but in a country that votes for a right wing egotistical nut job I'll take it with a little pinch of salt. Still it was interesting to hear his take & we got to the airport in the 40 he said rather than the 90 Google said. Quick rearrangement of luggage as the carry on could be checked in for free - so lighten the bike bag - just in case. Told to leave it by a door & someone would take care of it. Sounded a bit dubious but what choice was there. Settled down to wait for the almost inevitable delay - 30 mins late but that only eats into the 3 hour layover in Frankfurt and emergency exit seats on both flights so things are ok. Oh and in the space 40 minutes we've flown the route that was cycled in 8 days.Read more