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Camino De Madrid
  • Mick Byrne
April 2024

Camino De Madrid

Camino De Madrid is officially 320kms long from the Church of Santiago y San Juan Bastia in Madrid and ends in Sahagun on the French Camino. Read more
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  • Trip start
    April 4, 2024
    Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino De Madrid

    Day 1 Madrid to Tres Cantos

    Apr 4–17, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Back on the Camino!

    Camino De Madrid is officially 320kms long from the Church of Santiago y San Juan Bastia in Madrid and ends in Sahagun on the French Camino.
    Day One was an early start at 03.45am to get to Liverpool for a 6am flight.
    A busy time at the airport but we got away on time. Landed in Madrid at 9.30am and caught a bus into the city.
    Made my way to the starting point and got my credencial. I also managed to get a Spanish SIM card which cgallenged my Spanish.
    Made my way out of the city sprawl which was boring and into the open countryside. It was a beautiful day, 24C with little cloud. Hello sunshine! The trail was well marked in the countryside but I did have to frequently refer to my Camino app for directions in the city.
    For the last two hours, the trail followed closely alongside motorways and cycle path routes. The cyclists gave no quarter to anyone until I started holding my walking poles out.
    I arrived at Tres Cantos at 5pm feeling very tired and hot. There is not much remarkable about the place as it is a filter town to Madrid. I managed to get some food for tonight and tomorrow from a supermarket and made my way to my hotel for the night. Admin completed, I think it will be an early night.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino De Madrid

    Day 2 Tres Cantos to Manzamares El Real

    April 5, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Camino De Madrid

    Day 2 Tres Cantos to Manzanares El Real 25kms

    Last night was spent in the hotel. I was simply too weary to wander around. I purchased some food in a nearby supermarket and had a picnic tea, washed down by two cans of Radler (beer shandy).
    An early night followed which was wonderful. I had breakfast in the hotel for 9.5 euros and believe me I got my money’s worth and more.
    I set off at 08.15am. It was very cool but quickly warmed up. It turned out to be another stunning day. 23C with a little cloud. Great walking weather.
    The Camino followed dirt tracks through farmland and countryside. I had to cross a dozen creeks which were a little precarious. The scenery was simply stunning with commanding views of the Guadarrama Mountains caked in snow.
    After 10kms, I arrived in Colmenar Viejo where I stopped for second breakfast of coffee and a giant croissant in the square while I watched the storks nesting in the church bell tower.
    I set off again through the countryside where the path became very rocky. The main problem was girt getting into my shoes.
    At one stage, I had to pass a group of 50 walkers who seemed intent on not letting me get past them. I eventually arrived at 2.30pm at my hostel for the night.
    My first priority was a large cold beer before checking in. It didn’t touch the sides.
    I met my first pilgrim in the dorm, Tong from Korea.
    Admin completed, I found a laundrette, put my kit on wash and raced to visit the impressive 15th century Cattle of Las Medoza.
    I intend to rest for the evening and read. Another early night calls.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino De Madrid

    Day 3 Manzamares El Real to Credilla 21

    April 6, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Camino de Madrid

    Day 3 Manzanares El Real to Cercedilla 21kms

    A restful night in the hostel. At 8am, I set off this morning. It was cool but dry and perfect weather for walking.
    The path followed along a road next to Guadarrama National Park with dramatic views of the mountains.
    Tentg, the Korean Pilgrim, was always just ahead of me. I finally caught up with him in a small pueblo called Mataelpino where we stopped for first breakfast of churros and cafe con leche.
    After we began our gradual 400m ascent to the next town called Navacerrada another 7kms. There, we stopped for second breakfast. This time, it was coffee, pastries and orange juice to prepare us for the steep 300m ascent to the mountain pass and down into Cercedilla. The town has a real tourist vibe. I quickly found my lodgings for tonight and have settled down for lunch.
    Today was an excellent day for walking especially with some company. No blisters to report on.
    Tomorrow will be a tough day to just beyond Segovia 34kms over 1800m pass. I will have to carry food and water as there are no services. It will be a picnic lunch in the mountains.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino De Madrid

    Day 4 Cercedillia to Zamarrama

    April 7, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Day 4 Cercedilla to Zamarrama near Segovia 34kms

    After not sleeping too well, I set off at 07.15am in the dark. The trail followed a main road up into the Guadarrama Mountains.
    I eventually reached a very rocky Roman road rising up to a 1800m pass.. I was in awe that Roman soldiers and pilgrims of a bygone age walked this route.Well not that much as I was huffing and puffing my not so slim backside up a mountain. 😬
    Close to the summit of the pass, I met Cheng from South Korea. We stopped briefly for breakfast and put extra layers on before starting our long descent to Segovia. There was a lot of snow on the trail but easy to pass.
    As we descended the weather turned cold and light rain began to fall. The trail meandered through the forest with easy descents. There were no real views because if the mist.
    As we descended out of the mountains, we could see Segovia’s cathedral in the distance. As we walked the lowlands, I saw what looked like a figure sitting on a rock in a field of yellow. Only when we got closer and it took off, did we realise that it was an eagle. It was HUGE.
    We eventually got to Sevogua’s main square which was packed with tourists. We were very footsore and tired. We got our credentials stamped and went to a fantastic cafe for lunch. I can tell you that the meal and beer were amazing.
    We then walked or waddled the last 3kms up a hill to a fantastic albergue reserved for pilgrims. The hospilario is wonderful and caring. All for the princely sum of 8 euros, we have a bed for the night and our clothes washed.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino De Madrid

    Day 5 Zamarramala to Santa Maria

    April 8, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Day 5 Zamarramala to Santa Maria La Real De Nieva 33kms

    Cheng and I were the only pilgrims in the Albergue last night.
    I had a very early night and slept comfortably.
    Cheng and I were back on the trail at 7.30am. It was still dark and cold but the path was easy to follow. We have entered vast open countryside with rolling hills. The Camino essentially follows dirt roads.
    We got to our first small village, hoping for a coffee and some breakfast, around 9am. It was like a ghost down. This was the general theme all day.
    We took a short break in a lovely small park the next village. I shared my almost stale rustic bread and chorizo with Cheng. We needed the carbs.
    The path crossed into pine forests where we saw evidence of tapping the trees for resin. There were lots of birds of prey in the sky.
    Just as we entered the last of five villages today, the heavens opened. We fast paced 3.5 kms our hostal for the night. By the time we got there, we were soaked to the skin and frozen to the bone.
    We managed to get a room for the night and a hearty lunch.
    Although, the trail was relatively flat, it felt hard. This is probably the culmination of two long days.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino De Madrid

    Day 6 Santa Maria to Coca

    April 9, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    Day 6 Santa Maria La Real De Nieva to Coca 24kms

    I couldn’t have picked a better place than last night’s Hostal Avanto. It continued raining all night. The restaurant was very busy with locals. The food was excellent.
    Cheng and I set off at 7am this morning in total darkness. It was -1C and with the wind factor, it was probably -5C.
    We waited outside a bar to open at 8am. One of the daughters working there clearly didn’t want to be there. She was grumpy as sin.
    We set off properly at 8.15am into the cast open countryside. Within a few kilometres, we were into a vast pine forest which went on for hours.
    Around 11am, we got to Nava de la Asuncion where we had second breakfast. This time, it was coffee with tortilla. Thankfully, the weather remained dry and cool 13C.
    The trail continued much as before. At 1pm, we arrived in Coca and found the Albergue. There were two pilgrims just leaving. They were only walking seven kilometres to the next village.
    Cheng and I quickly dropped our rucksacks and went out for lunch and a short tour of Coca.
    It is dominated by a Castle, medieval walls and a tower.
    It was back to the Albergue to do admin and plan tomorrow. The Albergue is a former head teacher’s house and costs 5 euros to stay.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino De Madrid

    Day 7 Coca to Alcazaren

    April 10, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Day 7 Coca to Alcazarén 25kms

    The Albergue in Coca was very basic but warm. I found a supermarket nearby for snacks. Nothing else appeared open.
    This morning, we managed to find a bar open at 7am to get a coffee. There was no food available until 8.30am but the owner took pity on us and gave us toast.
    We set off at 7.30am as the sun rose. It was 2C with clear skies. The trail followed sandy tracks through pine forests. This remained the general theme for the day. At one stage, we disturbed a deer.
    We quickly got to the village Villeguillo 7kms on our route today. It was another ghost town with no bars open. We stopped for a brief rest and carried on.
    As we arrived near the outskirts of Alcazaren, we walked through an expansive vineyard.
    Entering Alcazaren, we sought out the bar where we could get the keys to the Albergue. Unfortunately, it was closed. We eventually managed to locate them. The Albergue is great and very clean. It is a donation Albergue.
    There was nowhere to eat but we managed to scavenge a lunch out of food in our rucksacks. Thankfully, there is a supermarket nearby that opens at 5pm.
    This was a pretty uneventful day on the Camino. The walking through the pine forests was peaceful. We are now in the province of Valladolid.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino De Madrid

    Day 8 Alcazaren to Puente De Duero

    April 11, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Camino de Madrid

    Day 8 Alcazaren to Puente De Duero 25kms

    There was no where to eat in the town last night and only a microwave in the Albergue kitchen. Dinner consisted of chicken soup in glass coffee cups, bread, cheese, chorizo, a doughnut and yoghurt.
    Cheng and I set off at 7.30am across the open countryside. The terrain remains pine forests and open fields. We had a couple of busy roads to walk along.
    At 11kms out, we stopped for a break next to a lovely river crossing. We had only set off on the bridge when we realised that the debris had build up and formed a dam causing the river to run over the bridge. Shoes and socks off, we waded the remaining part of the river.
    We arrived in Valdestillas, the only village on the trail today. It is famous for a miracle that happened in the 17th century when the statue of Baby Jesus slipped from his Mother’s arms. Happily Our Lady had quick reflex’s and caught her son before he fell to the floor of the church. There were witnesses, four soldiers who had just returned home. I suspect that too much drink was also involved.
    After a short break, we had a boring 9kms trudge along a busy road in the heat.
    We finally arrived at 1pm, had a beer and found our Albergue in Puente de Duero. There is really nothing interesting about the place.
    The Albergue is a wooden cabin and the hospilardo is an eccentric German guy who I think is under the influence of intoxicants or drugs.
    Today seemed to be a ‘filler’ day where you just have to put the distance in.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino De Madrid

    Day 9 Puente De Duero to Penaflor De H

    April 12, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Day 9 Puente De Duero to Penaflor De Hornija 28kms

    Cheng and I set off 7.30am this morning. We followed the river for a time and quickly made the 6kms to our first village of the day Simancas. We crossed the Pusuegra River over a magnificent medieval bridge. Unfortunately, we had a very steep climb up a hill to the village centre. Nothing was open so after a brief rest, we carried on past Simancas Castle.
    We followed the trail as it meandered over a number of hills.
    We managed to find a bar open in Cigunuela and stoped for some refreshment before carrying on.
    Our next destination was a village called Wamba (pronounced Bamba). It’s only claim to fame is that it is the only place in Spain that starts with a ‘W’.
    As we walked the last 7 kilometre to Penaflora de Hornija, the landscape turned to vast open countryside with wind farms across the horizon. There was nothing to really hold your interest but someone put a number of pilgrim silhouette-sculptures along the trail.
    It seems to take forever to get to our Albergue. The sting in the tail was we had to descend into a deep gorge and then climb up a steep bank to the village on the top of another gorge. We joined with an American ilgrim also on the Camino.
    We had a short wait for the Albergue to open. The three of us have a dormitory each for 7.50 euros.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino De Madrid

    Day10 Penaflor De Hornija to Medina De R

    April 13, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Camino de Madrid

    Day 10 Penaflor De Hornija to Medina De Rioseco 25kms

    Penaflor is strangely located with huge gorges around it. As you approach and leave it, you think that it sits simply on the flat landscape. Unfortunately there is a very steep 100m descent and descent into the town. It must have been for defensive purposes.
    Leaving this morning, we had to repeat the same process. It certainly gets your heart going.
    As we settled into the trail today, we walked along open countryside teeming with wind turbines. They were an incredible sight.
    Today, the villages, we encountered, were pretty evenally spaced at 9kms apart. We managed to find a small bar for coffee.
    We carried on to the next village after a short rest. The trail was just a long walk on a gravel track. This is the time that you reflect internally or in case listen to a fantastic audio book called ‘The Lonesome Dove’.
    At the next village, we couldn’t find anything and almost walked on until an old lady shouted and pointed out where there was a bar. The building was so modern and seemed out of place in the village.
    We arrived in Medina De Rioseca at 1pm. The Albergue didn’t open until 2pm so we walked into town for a beer and get some food for the next few days. The town was buzzing and the bars busy.
    We went back to the Albergue to find it open. The hospilardo gave us a wonderful greeting. It is located in an old convent. It was used by Franco’s fascists as a prison of war camp in their Civil war. Admin completed.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino De Madrid

    Day 11 Medina De Rioseca to Villalon

    April 14, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Medina De Rioseco to Villalon de Campos 29 kms

    The hospilardo at Santa Clara Albergue was a true peregrino. At 6.30am, he got up and made us coffee and made sure that we had breakfast and set us off with advice on today’s trail.
    We quickly walked through the town and walked along the Canal de Castilla. It provided an amazing change of scenery. The cabal is lined with poplar trees which burst into colour as the sun rose.
    We followed this for 8kms and at the end of the canal, we had only another 4 kms to Tamariz de Campos where we stopped for second breakfast by an old church.
    We then joined a dirt track across open country for 9kms to Cuenca De Campos. There was no shade and just an open vast landscape where you could see the silhouette of the town in the distance. No matter, how much you walked, you never seemed to get closer. When we eventually arrived, we were exhausted by the distance and heat. Thankfully, we found a bar open and another pilgrim, 73 years old, from Belgium.
    The temperature was now around 25C when we set off for the last 5.5 kms.
    We arrived around 1.15pm and went for drink in a bar before wearily making our way to the Albergue.
    The two hospilardos, retired Spanish Artillery Colonels, made our welcome so pleasant after a hard day on the trail.
    We quickly showered and went out for a meal in the only open restaurant in the town.
    We have spend the rest of the afternoon just chatting to them.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino De Madrid

    Day 12 Villlalon de Campos to Santervas

    April 15, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Day 12 Villalon de Campos to Santervas De Campos 16 kms

    As we put in the extra kilometres yesterday, we only had 16kms to walk today.
    The hospilardos advised us that we needed to bring food with us as there were no services in Santervas.
    We waited until 9.45am for the supermarket opened to get some provisions for tonight.
    When we got back to the Albergue, the hospilardo took his time out to show us where the trail out of town began.
    There are now two more peregrinos, Edward (73) from Belgium and Paul from U.S.A.
    The Camino meandered onto wide open plains of multi colours. You can see the small clusters of towns and villages in the distance.
    Cheng and I stopped in the only village called Fontiboyuelo en route to our destination for a snack from our rucksacks. The only person we saw asked if we were okay for water.
    We then just carried on, arriving at 1.15pm worn out by the heat.
    The hospilardo invited us in and made sure that we were comfortable. A short time later, Edward and Paul arrived just in time for a simple lunch that the hospilardo made for us. He speaks no English so I ended up trying to translate badly. As it turns out I will be pretty much making the same thing tonight of pasta and chorizo.
    Just before we ate, a van pulled up outside the Albergue with a mobile shop inside. We descended on it like locusts. So the good news is that I have a few cans of cerveza a to enjoy .
    As we cleared up, a Canadian couple arrived exhausted by the heat of the day.
    Tomorrow will be my last day. It is 19kms to Sahagun.
    I have a train booked back to Madrid tomorrow afternoon to meet up with my old pal Al Cox.    Read more

  • Mick ByrneMick ByrneCamino De Madrid

    Day 13 Santervas De Campo to Sahagun

    April 16, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Day 13 Santervas De Campos to Sahagun 20kms

    Last night, there were six peregrinos in the Albergue. Bepe, our hospilardo, continued to look after us. I prepared a communal meal for everyone and he prepared some dessert for us.
    After, María came from the village to give us a tour of the 12th century church and tell us about the village’s history.
    We were all up for breakfast at 7am and Bepe had prepared coffee and toast for us. The albergue is donation so you give what you can. He is a volunteer and does it because he also is a pilgrim.
    Chen’s and I set off as sun was rising. It was cold 4C but the pace soon warmed us up.
    We stopped in our last village at around 10.30am and hoped to find a bar open. We were unsuccessful.
    Whilst we waited in the main square, a van pulled up and the driver asked if we waiting for the albergue to open. We told him so but he still open up the albergue so we could get a stamp in our credential before going about working in the square.
    We finally arrived in Sahagun around midday. I collected my compostela for walking the Madrid Camino.
    Three of us met up and went for lunch before I had to say my farewell.
    I have thoroughly enjoyed walking this Camino. The scenery, wildlife, and the kindness of the other pilgrims and hospilardos has been amazing.
    Thank you all for your words of encouragement and support.
    The fact that small communities welcome pilgrims and provide basic accomodation is truly inspiring.
    I am now making my way back to Madrid for a few days to catch up with my good buddy Al Cox.
    That concludes my 12th Spanish Camino .
    Buen Camino    Read more

    Trip end
    April 16, 2024
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