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Jane-Maree O'NeillJane-Maree O'Neill
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  • Jane-Maree O'Neill2023 Penang and Singapore
    Day 6

    Penang

    February 26, 2023 in Malaysia ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    We were disappointed we couldn’t get a booking for lunch today at the Mansion’s Indigo restaurant to precede our Romeo and Juliet show. However it worked out well because we spent some time walking again in Georgetown.

    Brekky was noodle soup with chilli sambal and then a piece of white toast with vegemite and pineapple jam (not together). Cakes and coffee of course. Brekky always comes after the coffee my Mick makes me in the room and the cheese dippy biscuit things. We decided to pick up another shirt for Mick from the gift shop as decent batik we aren’t finding, although Samways has suggested the Malay Islamic-type shops which I’ll keep my eye out for now. Plus I just had to buy some of their gorgeous hand wash and body wash – a KL based company so not sure if I could buy it online.

    So off we go again, this time to Fort Cornwallis. Thinking we’d do a sweaty, desultory walk around the walls and see a couple of scabby canons and a mouldy statue of an Englishman, we were approached by a guide at the entrance. 20 ringgits to get in and the tour was free. Well, what a surprise! A very passionate local who knew everything about the English coming to Georgetown and the society and politics spanning 150 or so years. We were with him for maybe 1.50 hours and he was a very nice, pleasant and knowledgable man. Like, he knew about the treaty with the sultans, the excavations and restoration works, how the canons worked and were made, the WW2 Japanese use of the fort, the legends and stories of the place. It was so good! And he didn’t even ask for a tip! Included in our ticket was a fresh fruit juice. Mick and I had apple which was delish, especially as it was past midday and as usual we were melting.

    So then the trek into Little India to try and find my elusive dupattas. Kathleen from the giftshop gave me the names of a couple of places which we went into. Unfortunately they do magnigicent saris at a reasonable cost but no dupattas. They suggested cutting the sari up but I'm not at home to that so I can get better textiles online from India and at a decent price too. But the spanglies and colours are mesmeric and magnetic for me. So much colour noise and life in the place. I love it!

    Lunch was at an Indian restaurant – of course – where thank the lord we could get a beer. A massive spread for 4: vegetable samosas studded with kalonji and fennel; a soul warming turmeric red lentil dahl; potatoes and fenugreek (OMG); a thick earthy mutton curry; chicken tikka makanhi slightly sweet; rice and bread. With beer it was MYR 140 so AUD12 per head and that was including beer! (Ian had to lend us some money because we had an issue trying to withdraw cash from a Standard and Chartered ATM. It went through the throes and we didn’t get our money. However it looks OK nothing has appeared on our statement).

    Hot stroll back with a stop at the beautiful Hainanese temple.

    A swim and soon getting ready to see Romeo and Juliet here at the mansion. Happy days.

    So we saw Romeo and Juliet - what a wonderful experience. I blubbed a few times 1) at the beginning - two houses ...etc 2) the line: When he shall die, Take him and cut him out in little stars, And he will make the face of heaven so fine That all the world will be in love with night And pay no worship to the garish sun. and 3) when they bloody died! Although a comedic interpretaion you Can't. Change. The. End :)

    We had great seats, I think thanks to the bottle of wine we ordered as part of our ticket so we had a high table with an uninterruted view to the stage. The 2 hours went very quickly and I was enthralled.

    So far it's been history and culture today, and tonite when we went next door to the hawker stalls it was music - because they were having a competition of singers! Well, kinda singing.    Read more

  • Jane-Maree O'Neill2023 Penang and Singapore
    Day 5

    Penang

    February 25, 2023 in Malaysia ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Another busy day doing all sorts of things and being hot :)

    Breakfast was at 8am and this morning it was a thick Asian noodle soup - kecap manis-ey so I had my usual watermelon juice plus two scrambled eggs on toast. Lovely yellow eggs and a coffee (I think two spring rolls were in there too). I also spied some madeleines but ended up getting a bread and butter pudding with vanilla sauce - only a few spoonfuls which was lovely.

    Then as it was Ian's birthday we let him guide us as to what we were to do. So it was a walk to the Chowrasta market which is a local gig. Not very big but all the ususal stalls - fish, meat, poultry, veg, dried goods, spices, candied fruit. Along with the outdoors area - clothing, kitchen gadgets, plants, odds an sods etc. I managed to find things we needed ha! Plastic curry puff makers, metal funnel, plastic funnel, sarawak black peppercorns, and the blue Asian peelers for the girls.

    Lots of noise, haggling, smells and chat, with people eating street food. Chinese, Malays and Muslims all intermingling. We felt very safe as we do in markets but we had masks on.

    We doubled back to a batik place which was like an aladdin's cave but was owned by Indians, so lots of sparklies. The batik was crap and expensive so meh, but they did have some wonderful textiles. No dupattas to compare with what I've been able to buy online and bought in Nepal.

    Then we headed to a wonderfully restored colonial building called the George Town Mansion. This place was derelict as little as 6 years ago and has been beautifully restored housing an interesting museum on Malay history and culture and artifacts and all the Victorian rooms that they liked.

    Then the long trek to find the lunch place that's been around since 1906. Hmm yah the experience was part of it I suppose but it was fun. And hot.

    Then the long trek to the Khoo Kangsi clanhouse which was beautiful
    then the (potential) trek to the China Cafe (nope, we are going back to the hotel).

    Then the long trek back to the Blue Mansion where Mick and I collapsed in the bar and skulled down a drink.

    A quick swim then the Drinnans arrived and we had drinks out on our patio to the pool.

    We decided to have dinner at one of the more renowned Nonya restaurants– near the one we went to the other night. It wasn’t very busy then and I know why it wasn’t busy tonight. Plus it was a bit on the expensive side compared to some of the places we’ve been eating in. I reckon it was gag worthy. Although fresh, the flavours either weren’t there or were horrible. The vegetables were a yuck raw mess of glass noodles and tough mushrooms, nil flavour. A beef rendang that tasted like nothing – no salt or that wonderful clingy, complex gravy; a sour coconut prawn and cashew curry (a teaspoon of the sauce was enough for me :/). A kapitan chicken which was OK and I must admit a pork belly and tofu number which was very nice. Oh and big fat spring rolls which tasted like a chicko roll.

    I couldn’t wait to get out of there but we were caught out by this massive tropical rainstorm which was torrential and lasted for ages. I wasn’t keen on getting soaked so we held off until it was just rain. Back in our room it started to pour again – all the courtyard pools were filling up and we got some water in under our back door. The huge drum rolls of thunder were massive – very impressive. After all , Asia isn’t Asia without a torrential tropical downpour. I loved it.    Read more

  • Jane-Maree O'Neill2023 Penang and Singapore
    Day 4

    Penang

    February 24, 2023 in Malaysia ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Amazing day filled with food, history, music and laughter.

    Later breakfast and then a long chat with Kathleen, the lady who runs the gift shop. She gave me some names of her fave sari shops in Little India as well as some names of good restaurants.

    We went on the historic tour of the Mansion. Bonus was it was run by the woman of the architectural couple who bought and restored it. Such a special hour. If I loved it before I could feel it after her tour. So many insights and stories and amazing passion for her town's legacy.

    A lounge around with beer in the courtyard then it was time to get ready and frock up for our high tea at the Eastern and Oriental Hotel. We got there 30 minutes early to look around a little at some of the hallways filled with old newspapers and photos and bits. Then we were led into a beautiful booth/banquette with velvet seats, a damask tablecloth on a round table and bone china, with sunny, steamy views out over the water.

    Three tiers of sweet and savoury decadent yumminess appeared with fancy pots of tea and a glass of white for me. Gosh all of those little morsels can be filling. My fave savoury sweet was the chicken choux and for sweet the red velvet cake, and Mick's was the tuna tartare on wholemeal and chocolate tart. We were SO FULL by the end of it!

    A waddle to a bar for a drink then a wander back to the Blue Mansion with only 30 minutes to spare before the Chinese musician came in to play in the courtyard. We all sat at a table transprted by the story this guy played on hs stringed instrument. We were entralled for nearly 90 minutes by his playing.

    Though not too hungry we still managed an bite to eat next door at the red dragon hawker stalls.

    Time for bed zzzzz.    Read more

  • Jane-Maree O'Neill2023 Penang and Singapore
    Day 3

    Penang

    February 23, 2023 in Malaysia ⋅ 🌩️ 27 °C

    Woke to the sounds of birds chirping and the fan whirring in the predawn. Such an iconic Asian morning! I tried to capture it in my mind for later.

    Our morning routine is that Mick makes coffee for us both, check our phones of course, and do our washing. Mick makes his water purified staminade and we get ready for 8 am breakfast with the Drinnans.

    Our breakfast area is such a serene and unique space - it's easy to spend time eating slowly and savouring the breakfast selection. Today's Asian was nasi lemak (Mick chose) and clear noodle broth with tofu, chilli and spinach, soy sauce and sesame oil (both of us). With a side of watermelon juice. I also managed a piece of vegemite toast and a filtered coffee.

    We wanted to see the Penang street art so that was on today's agenda with Ian as the guide. And because it took us to the depths of Chinatown we were hoping also to see some of the main temples and clan houses that were in the guidebooks.

    We headed out into an overcast day with a slight breeze. The security guards manning the gates know us now and are friendly and chatty with us which is nice - the boys always have a laugh with them. So begins our wander down to Chinatown which is maybe a kilometre away?

     Still so many of the shops aren't open but it seemed a bit livelier today. We're beginning to think it's typical Asia where it doesn't start ramping up until the afternoon.

    Anyway we walked around and looked at the street art. Such clever painting and use of the urban space. Sadly though a lot of them are seeing the effects of the tropical wear and tear, inevitable in Penang. I also suspect that some of the render on which the street art has been painted may have been taken? Not sure.

    And it was getting hot. Like really hot. Like very fucking hot. Thank god I had an umbrella because it was really hot (insert crazy laugh). I'm very lucky in the heat because though it can make me feel uncomfortable I can kinda handle it and it doesn't make me feel like I'm going to die. Josie isn't a big heat fan, but kudos to her, will push through to do the touristy thang. But damn we tried to find somewhere to stop for a drink but blah blah not open, no milk, no soda so we threw our hands up and walked to the clan jetties on the water.

    So. on the water there are maybe 6 or 8 jetties. These jetties grew up randomly on the water during the 1800s when Penang was one of the East's busiest and most lucrative trading ports. The Chinese workers built thier homes on stilts over the water which became known as the clan jetties. So we walked down 3 of them: 1 rustic family residential, 1 tourist crap; 1 residential but slightly upmarket. I loved the first one. Though being bloody hot in the middle of the day there were no people about but you could hear TVs, radios, chinese music, kids crying, men yawning, sleepy conversations. All their homes on stilts with tiny front yards and letter boxes and washing hanging out and pot plants and air con units all linked with a jetty pathway of wooden planks. I wonder who lives here now? Are they descendants? Is the rent cheap? Lots of questions.

    So the next jetty we found an open air restaurant which - thank god - sold (expensive) Tiger beer and hot char kuay teow (CTK im gonna call it from her on in). I love how the Asians see us coming and lure us in with the fans they will only turn on for us and not their own people! A nice 45 minutes relaxing and cooling off. Another jetty and we were frying so we decided to call it a day and walk back to the Blue Mansion.

    On the way we just had to stop into a large Indian supermarket in Little India to get into the aircon. though they didnt sell wine they sold cheap bollywood earrings (AUD3-5) which we can use as tassels for our cushions for our bed at home. Onward to a sports bar for drinks and to cool down (again) and watch world wrestling.

    A few quiet hours before dinner which was at a Nonya restaurant in the opposite direction to where we are staying. A nice surprise this street which had lots of nice family restaurants. At this nice little place we had pork sausage, chicken rendang and water spinach with bean sauce. It was sooooooo goooood all for MYR70 which was AUD 23.

    Off to bed I'm tired.    Read more

  • Jane-Maree O'Neill2023 Penang and Singapore
    Day 2

    Penang

    February 22, 2023 in Malaysia ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Well naturally I fagged out last night so kinda didn't write a very inspiring entry. But a great night's sleep despite the room being freezing but it made for a snuggly sleep. Plus the firm, king size Asian bed was divine. However I woke at 4am which was Sydney time but luckily I snoozed heavily till 6am to lots of beautiful bird noises.

    They have a lavazza coffe pod machine which took ages to get working but we managed long blacks (no milk) which is what we both needed, not having had coffee the day before (well, ony a weak one for me anyway). Plus some dippy biscuits. We did a grand reveal through two, great big doors from our room out to the beautiful gardens and pool. What a place we've found :)

    Breakfast at 8am with the Drinnans in the wonderful, cool courtyard. Freshly squeezed juice - I chose watermelon - and then a smorgasboard breakfast with an option for a la carte. Not so surprising that everyone started with the Asian selection which today was, for me and Mick, roti with dahl, then Mick went back for congee whereas I went the old vegemite and toast. We had filtered coffee but you could order a cappucino or other made to order coffee. The food was fresh and plentiful, but intimate sizes so there was no waste. The fresh fruit, cereals and home made jams looked very inviting.

    Our first morning was to head to the mini mart to get beer and bits. It was only a short walk away but in that time it took us 45 minutes because there were so many pix to take. Lots of drains, lots of broken footpaths, lots of old colonial houses in all states of repair and disrepair. I never realised mould could be so colourful! Either restored or dilapidated there were so many glorious doors and windows to capture. As Georgetown is renowned for its street art we saw the little building where Jimmy Choo had his first shop. Wow.

    Back to the hotel where we dumped our shopping then we started the heritage walking tour. This took us to the Eastern and Oriental Hotel which is on the water. A beautiful old colonial building built by the same people as Raffles in Singapore. It was seriously beautiful. The key reason for our quick visit there today was to book in for high tea on Friday - defs a tad frocking up for that!

    Then a slow (and very hot) meander past the high court building, city hall and town hall. All white with multi-paned windows and arches and big columns and large, grand, shaded porticos. A remider of how dominant and domineering and preposessing the British Empire was in Asia - mirrored in every colony including our own country.

    By now it was getting bloody hot so we stopped for a refreshment. The others had icecream - cocount, lavender and honeycomb, chocolate and orange - but I had a lychee and rose soda - very light, slightly sweet and very cooling. Back out into the sun to head towards the Peranakan Museum (fun fact I still hadn't found anywhere that sold wine).

    The Peranakan Museum is another old Straits Chinese trader's home, which is compared the the Blue Mansion where we are staying. A similar architectural footprint though I think a fair bit smaller and it's green. Plus as it's a museum it's very loaded with a lot of the furniture and belongings of the original family. And I think a lot of add-ins as well. It's extremely opulent and lavish, I think because it's so filigreed and golden and packed with stuff. There was a collectibles wing - one filled with jewellery and adornments and the other with hundreds of beaded shoes! Very sad to see shoes and old photos of women with bound feet. I thought their tiny shoes were for small children, though at a first look they looked like those high sided Tibetan slippers. High sided because of their poor artritic crippled feet. Very sad.

    By this stage we were so hungry and being down in Little India the hunt is on for a place to eat. Preferably with beer but that didn't happen. Many of the paces were closed but we weren't sure if it was because it was a Wednesday or Covid. Dunno? So we saw a place packed with locals; an open air place with tandooris and curries. Tandoori biryani for 4 thank you (no beer to be had). But OMG the best food I've eaten in weeks so the most I've eaten in weeks. It was so damn nice. A breast and wing of sour, red, smoky chicken, flavoured yellow rice with cloves and cardamons and flecks of carrot and green stuff, red onion and lime, a little dahl and a sweet mint chutney. What made it better was tiny hairs of basting brush on the chicken - awesome :) (and a weird drinks robot - refer Jono from work).

    Wandering back the boys were getting tired of Josie and I flitting into Indian shops to look for tableware and junk jewellery. We packed them off to try and find a bar while we wandered back, browsing different Indian shops. Sooo much colour and so many textures and treasures to be had. Gorgeous cushion covers and bejewelled bangle boxes and salwar kameez. All so cheap but where would you wear those lovely outfits? Josie and I each bought a pair of earrings - hers dainty (little head) mine ginormous (big head).

    We wandered back through the backstreets - so prettily run down but no energy or people - not sure what's happening there? We were hanging for a beer when we got back and the boys were having a bevvy on the verandah.

    We all later ended up by the pool, having a laugh and chat and beer etc etc. Quick fun dinner next door at the undercover hawker stalls. Chicken and beef satay and I had a small char kuay teow. Then Josie and I had crispy Chinese packakes with brown sugar, peanuts and banana.

    I grabbed a white wine from the bar to take back to the room which I'm enjoying now writing this.    Read more

  • Jane-Maree O'Neill2023 Penang and Singapore
    Day 1

    Sydney to Penang

    February 21, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Crazy early 4.15 am start after a hot, humid Sydney night's sleep. So therefore that meant: no sleep. A quick shower, small brekky and then outside to wait for Jo and Ian. Bridget was chatting to us through the 4th bedroom windows where she's been isolating with covid.

    A quick trip to Sutherland station which was alive with people, derros, tradies and open shops even at 5.15 am in the morning. We had a relatively quick train to Wolli Creek but a wait on the airport line.

    Pretty seamless through check in, customs and screening. The loader at screening looked very pleased I did what was required without being asked and laughingly offered for me to take over his job. Yeah, nah.

    Some duty free shopping to stock the bar: Archie Rose gin, Kahlua, Cointreau and scotch. Gin and a bottle of wine for Penang.

    Then the holiday really started, WFP hit the bar at 7.30am. Mandatory pix of planes passports and bevvies.

    We're on an older aircraft which as per usual for us is pretty full. I have a little shit behind me kicking my chair plus one 2 seats up screaming and crying. Old mate across the aisle coughing and spluttering and scratching at his hairy ears. How I wish for business class 😪

    Snack of paratha filled with pumpkin, peas and lentils with a white wine. 😋 Now just trying to kill time till the next meal.

    I've watched Mrs Harris goes to Paris that I've been wanting to see. The Dior gowns are magnificent and a nice feel-good story.

    Now waiting for lunch. Starving.

    Lunch was lemon chicken and fried rice. Only good because I was hungry. The Singapore Airlines food leves a lot to be desired; it's not like it used to be. Now about to descend into Singapore then transfer to Penang.

    Quick layover at Changi. It was good to freshen up and go for a wander. New carpet, chairs and paint but it's still Changi Airport. A few laughs about previous visits there and now we are waiting on the plane to Penang.

    The Blue Mansion is glorious: the room sublime; I feel like a princess or someone who has just won the lottery.    Read more

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