• James Frith
fev. – mar. 2024

Antarctica and the Falklands

Voyage on Roald Amundsen : Ushuaia - Antarctica - Falklands - Ushuaia Leia mais
  • Inicio da viagem
    23 de fevereiro de 2024
  • Heathrow

    23 de fevereiro de 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    Arrived Heathrow at 18:00, parked and the courtesy bus to terminal 5. Checked in and then to the lounge to wait for the flight leaving at 22:00.

  • Buenos Airies

    24 de fevereiro de 2024, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Arrived at first main stop -Buenos Aires. Staying at the Hilton which is buy the canal, which used to be part of the old port, but now very modernised and smart, compared to some of the areas we saw on ride from airport, passing some very run down apartment blocks. On the drive the guide told of the high inflation in Argentina, the exchange rate and best to try and pay with credit cards and to be careful when going out as tourists regularly robbed. We did venture out in the afternoon for about an hour, just walking around the canal area and across the bridges. The thermometer said 30s but there was a nice cooling breeze. Early night as we leave at 3 in the morning to go back to the airport for the our next flight taking us south to Ushuaia.Leia mais

  • Ushuaia

    25 de fevereiro de 2024, Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Early start, all but 1 person ready to board bus to return to airport. Organised chaos is best way to describe this, People trying (even getting as far as the plane) who were booked on a later flight! Luggage issues so police initially delayed them from being loaded on plane, eventually left about 45 minutes late. Both agree one of the most uncomfortable flights we’ve ever had, so glad to arrive at Ushuaia. After collecting and passing luggage on to the crew waiting at the airport. They would take it to the ship, whilst we had a tour of the National Park here on the Islam of Tierra del Fuego.Leia mais

  • Drakes Passage

    26 de fevereiro de 2024, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    Will take approximately 2 days to reach Antarctica. Currently around 59 degrees south and nothing but open sea all around and seen no birds, whales or anything else. A few administrative tasks to deal with, the passengers have been split into 16 groups - we are in the Minke group, just under 400 passengers and only 100 allowed on shore at anyone time. We are told it is remarkably calm for Drakes Passage,only experiencing some gentle rolling and not needed the sea sickness pills or to open the savoury (salted) crackers. But a sea mist has been coming down during the day, at breakfast you could see clearly to the horizon, but at dinner visibility was only a couple of hundred yards, Hopefully by this time tomorrow we will have had our first sighting of Antarctica.
    Just to include a picture this was taken on 27th and you can vaguely see the first iceberg on the horizon
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  • Drakes Passage - 63 degrees south

    27 de fevereiro de 2024, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌧 4 °C

    Another sea day, started foggy and slowly cleared before the mist started returning. However did clear just enough for us to see our first iceberg, faintly visible on the horizon.A few more admin tasks, we now have boots and were shown how to put the snowshoes on, however the demonstration video had the demonstrator on knees doing this on a model. As not allowed to kneel or bend too much etc (fear of contaminating snow and ice) not sure how well that has equipped us for this task. Tomorrow we reach our first stop and are scheduled for a zodiac trip and later a landing assuming the weather holds good.Leia mais

  • Port Charcot - 65 degrees south

    28 de fevereiro de 2024, Antártica ⋅ 🌧 2 °C

    Lots of snow , ice and a penguin colony. Weather is grey, windy and with an icy drizzle, the zodiac driver said this was normal for this time of year and should expect same for rest of the trip. Due to the weather the snowshoeing, kayaking and overnight camping events were cancelled. However, some events were still planned and we were scheduled for both a zodiac trip and a landing, the downside was our groups timings were late at 16:00 and 18:30 respectively. We both went on the zodiac trip where we visited a group of icebergs. An interesting fact provided by the guide is that the iceberg can appear white or blue de pending on how compressed the ice has become, as they become more compressed the colour appears to change from white to blue when the light hits and penetrates the berg, very compressed and only the blue spectrum light. Heading back to the ship at high speed against the wind had waves regularly splashing over the bow of the zodiac, needless to say we ended up very wet. Karen had had enough and an hour later it was just myself heading to deck 3 for the shuttle to Antarctica. Problem here was that the penguins were occupying the normal landing place, an alternative sight was found, but was not particularly friendly. Had to disembark into the sea, my second step went down an extra few inches just avoiding the boot filling with cold sea water. Then had to wait in the water until the returning passengers descended the rocks to get into the zodiac before we could ascend being passed between expedition team people strategically placed on the rocks to provide a helping hand and instructions on where to place feet. Arriving on land, actually a mix of crisp ice and penguin guano, I took my 2 walking sticks and headed on the route to the penguin colony. I probably only went half way but did see plenty of penguins. Joined the queue to get back, by this time it was empty zodiacs coming back from the ship so loading was quicker although when descending the rocks were told not to touch them to steady yourself just grab hold of a Hurtigruiten person, by now they had rigged up a plank for you to equally perilously walk along to get back into the zodiac. Back just before 20:00 so quick removal of wet clothing and boots and dash to restaurant before it closed. Arriving with 2 other couples who had similarly just made it back we were allocated to the Captain’s table being the only one left. I spent the meal talking to a retired Scottish solicitor who practiced in Portsmouth and now lives in Petersfield. Getting back to the cabin just after 10, I strategically placed my wet clothing across the heated bathroom floor before bed. (Picture 1 is the penguins occupying the usual landing place.)Leia mais

  • Damoy Point, Wiencke Island - 64.5 south

    29 de fevereiro de 2024, Antártica ⋅ 🌫 -1 °C

    First stop was to drop off someone at the American research centre here in Antarctica, then onto Damoy Point where we arrived late morning. On the way we were accompanied by a pod of whales some coming close to the ship. Here we had an early landing spot. As well as the penguin colony there are 2 rescue huts, one British and the other Argentinian, neither been used since 1990s. We were able to enter the British one, which was left effectively as a museum piece from when it was last used, with bunks, tables, benches and some very old supplies for anyone to use while waiting there to be rescued. A walking trail had been marked out to the penguin colony and we did the circuit, pleased to be an early shore group this time with pristine snow to walk unlike the conditions at Port Charcot. The potentially treacherous part of these trips is getting out and in the zodiacs at the landing spot as you have to either drop in to the water or wade out to climb back over the side. Later we had a zodiac trip and had some penguins swimming alongside us as we were taken to see the colony from the waterside, after the trip along the shore we were taken out to some icebergs, caught a glimpse of a seal swimming alongside one of the icebergs but disappeared before I could get the camera out. Back to the ship for tonight’s dinner an Asian themed buffet.Leia mais

  • Orne Harbour

    1 de março de 2024, Antártica ⋅ ☁️ -2 °C

    Very calm today the wind has dropped from the 10 to 15ms we have had so far to 1 to 2. Also has been dry so far and a colder start. Outside seeing some more whales early morning, the whales were not very co-operative only giving glimpses of a an odd fin or dark shadow just below surface. But by mid morning some weak sunshine broke through and took the temperature up to around freezing. A slow cruise through the channels to Orne harbour, but even so we have been waiting for another ship to leave so the shore landings and zodiac trips are now running about an hour late. Our group is first out for the zodiac cruise so we have been half ready for quite a while. Finally called and probably one of the best trips, first visited the steep cliff at the entrance to the bay, here there were cormorants and both Genko and Chinstrap penguin colonies side by side. Also saw a fur seal, originally asleep but did raise himself for a picture. We then went into the bay which was full of ice, the wind and the current blowing the ice that breaks off from the glacier back into the bay. Here we saw several orcas amongst the ice, unfortunately no good photos, just a quick show of fin before submerging again. Then further towards the glacier a leopard seal was resting on a larger slab of ice. Little bit of snow falling while we were out, but not enough to disturb the trip. Back at the ship we went to the observation deck for tea and cake (we had missed lunch as thought would be leaving earlier), whilst watching the landing groups follow the zigzag path to the top of the hill to see the penguin colony from the landside. Having just settled our group was called for the landing trip. We decided to stick with the tea and cake! Photo 7 is a picture of the snow climb that was today’s on shore event, judging by the fact that all the groups were being called early (our group’s call was 30 minutes earlier than the latest schedule) it would appear a good number of people decided to watch this event rather than participate.Leia mais

  • Spert Island

    2 de março de 2024, Antártica ⋅ ☀️ 1 °C

    Very bright sunny day with minimal wind, temperature still around zero. Whales and seals around the boat at breakfast, not quick enough to capture the whales but did manage the seals serenely floating by on a chunk of ice ( photo 1). After breakfast moved to the lounge watching the dramatic rock and snow landscape as we slowly cruise north for our next stop and a zodiac trip. Watching more small icebergs going by with various numbers of seals sleeping while having a ride. Spert Island is volcanic with steep cliffs, so no landing opportunity and no penguins as not able to get ashore, but plenty of snow and apparently the island attracts icebergs, these are the biggest we have seen so far. The zodiac took us across the sheltered bay where we were anchored, through various channels between the volcanic cliffs into the next bay. Much rougher as the sea was swelling in all directions and various large icebergs were waiting. The sea colour changed from a very black- blue to an almost turquoise colour. Going through one of the narrow channels a seal got up from a shelf above us to wave a flipper. Going out was ok, but coming back was different, the wind and sea had brought a number of icebergs into the channels so we couldn’t get back through them, apparently you need a reasonable size gap in case a piece breaks off whilst going by. After two or three attempts where we were blocked finally found a route where we could get out into the open sea where we took the long, safe route around the headland and back to the ship.Leia mais

  • Whalers Bay - Deception Island

    3 de março de 2024, Antártica ⋅ ☁️ 1 °C

    Arrived just before dawn, and sailed through the narrow gap into the protected bay where there is an abandoned whaling station, we go ashore at 10:00 for an hour. Meanwhile we are watching a torrential storm, those on shore will be soaked hopefully will stop before we go.
    No rain, bright and sunny and both feeling we have overdone the layers. The bay is the crater of an “active” volcano, we landed on the beach which consisted of small grains of lava rock. Strolled left to take a slightly closer look at the large building, then back right to walk to the gap in the cliffs around the bay. Walking along the beach we passed a few penguins, but every few yards there were seals sleeping on the shore, occasionally waving a flipper. Going up the slope to the dip was ok, coming down slightly harder as the small stones slipped under your feet, but both down without falling. Back along the beach passing the penguins and seals again to board the zodiac and return to the ship, ending our last shore trip in Antarctica.
    14:00 and we are leaving Deception Island, leaving through the narrow channel through the volcano wall on our way to the Falklands. So now we have 2 sea days as our next landing is Stanley on 6th Match.
    This afternoon, the itinerary shows us having a chance to visit the bridge.
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  • Drakes Passage - 60 Degrees south

    4 de março de 2024, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 0 °C

    2 sea days before we arrive at Stanley in the Falklands. Just had to have had various outer clothes hoovered in case they carry anything that might contaminate the Falkland Isles environment. The trip to the bridge was good, the captain gave a talk showing the various navigation aids and how the ship was controlled and manoeuvred. He emphasised that this was the safest ship he had ever captained! Cleared the last of the Antarctic islands overnight so will be just open sea (hence very limited internet) until we reach Stanley. Not particularly rough or windy, but you can noticebly feel (and see when you are in the restaurant and can see across the full width of the ship,) the ship rolling from side to side in the waves.Leia mais

  • Drakes Passage - Falklands Bound

    5 de março de 2024, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    Another sea day, mostly grey with the odd appearance of some weak sunshine breaking through the clouds. Not really rough but you can feel the ship move side to side and when on the running track on the top open deck you see the bow rise and fall as we plough through the waves. To clarify, we use the running track for walking, the wind has increased as well, so you are fighting the wind when heading to the bow and blown back on the return to the stern. Final picture is tonight’s sunset.Leia mais

  • Stanley - Falkland Isles

    6 de março de 2024, Ilhas Falkland ⋅ 🌬 7 °C

    Arriving at Stanley, we have a guided walking tour at lunchtime, otherwise free time to explore the town and try some local walks. Well the guided walk didn’t happen, no guide available for our time slot, so told we could join another one - next one in an hour or any up until 4pm ! So we did the “walk” ourselves. Basically Stanley has one long road that runs parallel to the sea and most things are on that. The first houses you see make you think you could be in Newton Abbot, Jubilee Villas is a typical Victorian terrace of four houses, a short walk further on is the cathedral and the whale bone arch. We next went to the Maritime museum, this has some old room settings including one of the British Antarctic huts, similar to the one we saw at Damoy point. The post office still has the old red style phone boxes outside, but were told they no longer work. Further along is the Governor’s Mansion and a number of memorials, commemorating the 1982 war, the World Wars and one specifically to the marines who apparently helped in the original establishment of the colony. In Victory Gardens there is part of the mizzen mast of Brunel’s SS Great Britain, which was abandoned here for many years before being taken back to Bristol and restored. Back passed the jetty in the other direction is the Cross of Sacrifice and the cemetery, the cemetery is part local and part war graves, looking at some of the early graves you see how hard life must have originally been as 50 to 60 appeared a good age. Whilst on the walk we saw a number of geese, believe the ruddy headed variety and black-browned Albatross flying overhead, supposed to be rockhopper penguins but didn’t spot any of those. But we are around the Falklands for the next couple of days so perhaps we are in the more remote areas. Too many pictures today have uploaded some for the sights mentioned.
    Across the bay from Stanley, laid out in white stone are the names of some of the old naval Antarctic and Falklands protection vessels, Karen’s father - Roy, served on the Protector in the mid 50s down here in the South Atlantic.
    Trivia facts: Karen recorded 13000 steps I recorded 10000, Karen walked 7.2km I walked 7.4km.
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  • Saunders Island - The Falkland

    7 de março de 2024, Ilhas Falkland ⋅ 🌬 9 °C

    The sea was getting rough when we left Stanley to sail around to Saunders Island on the west side of the islands. Rougher still overnight with the ship rolling from side to side and culminated a piece of ceiling cornice falling off narrowly missing the bed. The plan for today is a landing, 10:30 for our group, on Saunders Island, but presumably will need conditions to improve if this is to happen. Now announced that it is too rough to land so will move to an alternative site and try there this afternoon. Had some dolphins alongside during part of the journey ( no good photos though) as we moved to West Point Island, which as the name suggests is the most westerly of this little group. The bay was calm, the island is inhabited (1 family) so there was a small jetty which we used. The sun came out and the wind dropped (a little) so was a really pleasant autumn afternoon and we probably didn’t need all the layers we were wearing. Two walks available, one across the island to a bay with rockhopper penguins and an albatross nesting ground and a second along the coast where there were Magellan penguins. We decided to go across the island so started the long climb from the jetty, then crossing the central plain then a slight descent until we were on top of the cliff above the penguins and albatross chicks. A circular trail had been mapped out to weave closer to the nesting grounds and return to the top, the route was quite overgrown and very muddy, but the one way around system was working quite well until two elderly Australian women decided they didn’t want to do the full route and headed down the way back. Managed to get quite close to the albatross chicks,, even managed to capture a chick being fed. Bit further away from the penguins but you should be able to see their ears which is one of the distinguishing features of a rockhopper. Back across the island we started along the coastal walk to the Magellans. The track was a bit narrow in places where we were crossing some hill slopes, not helped by the camera enthusiasts stopping to balance on their tripods to take pictures. Lots of geese (mostly in pairs) everywhere we went, didn’t spot any sheep or cattle although saw evidence that there should be some somewhere. After 3 hours of walking we caught the zodiac back to the boat.Leia mais

  • New Island

    8 de março de 2024, Ilhas Falkland ⋅ 🌬 10 °C

    Sailing overnight to New Island, wind and waves dropped so has been a very smooth cruise.
    Waiting to hear confirmation that we will go ashore, if so we are 2nd group at 07:35, so will be no time for breakfast. The island is now a nature reserve, but very misty so don’t know lhow much we will be able to see. Landing given the go ahead, so into wet gear ready to be called.
    5 minutes in the zodiac and disembark into the sea and we have arrived. The colonies are on the other side of the island so we have to walk across again, advised to take a walking pole as it was slippery. Met one of the rangers on the walk, he said although was ok today, very unusually it had been raining most of the week, so instead of a very dry walk it was now very boggy everywhere. Like the last island saw plenty of pairs of geese on the walk across. Albatross and Rockhopper colonies with plenty of young ones. In the muddy conditions it was difficult to manoeuvre around the number of photographers with long lenses an tripods who had set up on the narrow trails around the bay. The local guide indicated since the mid 90s when they took over the number of breeding pairs now on the island had increased x10.
    On the walk back to the ship Karen was attacked by a bird, the villain in this incident is picture 10, believed to be a young caracara. Back to the ship, restaurant closed so will have to wait until lunchtime, at the cabin to find our departure instructions on the door. I did the trip to collect the passports, but only allowed to collect mine, so Karen will have to go as well.
    This afternoon we will start the final leg of the trip, heading back to Ushuaia.
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  • South Atlantic - 54deg south

    9 de março de 2024, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 8 °C

    Left New Island at lunchtime yesterday, as we sat in the restaurant we could see grey clouds on the horizon, before we had finished lunch the rain drops were hitting the windows. Continued to rain, an announcement saying the top exercise deck was closed was made, not sure when it ended but had stopped when we got up at dawn.
    Today we return boots etc and get final instructions on disembarkation procedure, we do know we are on 2nd flight so won’t be back in Buenos Aires until mid afternoon tomorrow.
    Photo of dawn breaking over the South Atlantic.
    Mid afternoon and just seen some whales, not close enough to get good picture but can see them spouting in the distance.
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  • Ushuaia Again

    10 de março de 2024, Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    Arrived back at Ushuaia harbour at 06:00. We were on the late flight back to Buenos Aires so had an hour to wander around Ushuaia. However being a Sunday almost everything was closed. Still drizzling we walked back the to the Ushuaia letters, almost mandatory if you have time, to have your picture taken here. There are two memorials to the Falklands war, one to remember the Argentinian dead with a display of pictures taken at the time. The other is a “waxwork” like display showing the raising of a flag, on display next to this are the busts as a memorial to Eva and Juan Peron. The drizzle finally stopped and you could clearly see the mountains, now with slightly less snow than a fortnight ago. Back to the coach for the ride back to the airport and the 3 1/2 hour flight back to Buenos Aires.Leia mais

  • Back in Buenos Aires

    11 de março de 2024, Argentina ⋅ 🌩️ 25 °C

    Staying overnight at the Emperador in Buenos Aires this time. The warning on the coach from the airport was “if you want to go out for a walk turn left out of the hotel. Don’t turn right it is too dangerous.” We had no problems checking in, but a couple and another woman who we had met on the cruise did, as they were unable to offer credit cards. The lady had somehow managed to get her card blocked whilst away and the couple only had a debit card, we did offer to assist but fortunately Hurtigruiten were able to negotiate with the hotel to get them their rooms. Restaurant was closed so we had a bar meal and then went out for a brief way in the evening, turning left as advised. Found a fairly exclusive shopping arcade which we walked around, seeing a few people spending money, a contrast to the couple of people we saw scavenging in the bins on the way back to the hotel.
    Coach back to the airport for the flight home at 09:15 tomorrow.
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  • 2 hours in Rio

    11 de março de 2024, Brasil ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Another brief stopover in Rio, again had to stay on plane while the cleaning gang tidied up where the seats used by the passengers who disembarked.

  • Terminal 5

    12 de março de 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

    Glad to get off one of the worst flights ever. The club world cabin had an electrical fault so the seats couldn’t be operated, if you needed them adjusted the cabin crew had to do this manually. No menus or wash bags had been loaded for the return flight either. So quite pleased to get off, however having priority tags on the luggage also proved to be a waste of time as people in back of the plane received their luggage before we did.Leia mais

  • Finally back home

    12 de março de 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Raining as we collected the car and large puddles, in some places virtually covering our side of the road. The rain and drizzle finally eased as we approached Devon. Glad to finally get home!

    Final da viagem
    12 de março de 2024