• American Air Museum

    October 1, 2021 in England ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    The American Air Museum was opened by Queen Elizabeth II in 1997 and was updated in 2014.  It tells the story of American air power and its effect on the 20th century, focusing largely on World War II in Europe; this is appropriate as Duxford was known as Base 357, the headquarters of the U.S. 78th Fighter Group, and home of P-47 Thunderbolts and P-51 Mustangs; these aeroplanes acted as fighter escorts on the large US bombing raids over Europe and Germany.  The 78th provided air cover for the Allied invasion fleet on D-Day and shot down the first German Me-262 jet aircraft.

    The American Air Museum houses some of the USA’s most famous warbirds and bombers dating from World War I to the modern day including a B-17G Flying Fortress, a B-29 Superfortress named "It's Hawg Wild" and a B-52 Stratofortress.  It is a really interesting hall to visit.
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  • Historic RAF Duxford Trail

    September 24, 2021 in England ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    During the Second World War, RAF Duxford played a prominent role in Britain’s air defence including the Battle of Britain in 1940, when its squadrons took to the air to repulse Luftwaffe attacks aimed at London; it was twinned with nearby RAF Fowlmere.

    The original main entrance to the site was through the gate next to the RAF Duxford Station Offices (now the staff entrance).  Behind this was the Operations Block; the Operations Room here was the nerve centre of Duxford's Battle of Britain contributions and there is an excellent exhibition and film here describing a critical day in this campaign.

    From here, behind a hangar now used as the Battle of Britain Hall, you pass the original buildings used for training pilots. A little further is an original and complete Uni-Seco prefabricated bungalow that was relocated to the museum from south east London (SE15).

    Back to the airstrip and doubling back to another original hangar, now used to house the Air and Sea Exhibition, is the original Watch Office; this was, built in 1918 and is now used as a small exhibition hall that tells Duxford's story through the eyes of the men and women who worked there.

    A new Control Tower, built in 1941, now fulfils the functions of both Watch and Control.
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  • Wensleydale; Aysgarth Falls

    September 21, 2021 in England ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    The start of this circular walk involved a short drive to Redmire; the walk heads to the village of Castle Bolton, named after the famous 14th century Bolton Castle.

    From here, our route takes us via the buildings of a sheep farm and we are fortunate to watch a shepherd and his dogs round up a flock of sheep in front of us. There are great views before we turn off towards the village of Carperby; we walk through and continue south to Aysgarth Falls.

    Aysgarth Falls are on the River Ure and comprise a triple flight of three stepped waterfalls over a one mile stretch of the river. The scene in the film "Robin Hood, Prince of Thieves" where Robin tackled Little John was filmed at the Upper Falls.

    We continue through the woods and have a long walk north east to Castle Bton and then back to the car. It has been a great walk!
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  • Wensleydale; Askrigg

    September 20, 2021 in England ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    On our way back south from Hadrian's Wall, "we" have arranged a short stay in Askrigg; this is a small village in Wensleydale, part of the Yorkshire Dales National Park.

    We set off on a circular walk from the village towards the tiny hamlet of Newbiggin, pass through a copse and then turn along a path under Ellerkin Scar with lovely views into Wensleydale on our left. Eventually we turn to go through woodland with a stream a long way below us; we descend and cross it and reach Mill Gill Force (aka Askrigg Waterfall). We pass the Old Mill and enter the village, passing the church.

    After sampling the beer in The Kings Arms, I was compelled to visit the Yorkshire Dales Brewery for some excellent bottled beers to enjoy at home; the brewery is actually on the outskirts of Askrigg! The Kings Arms doubled as The Drovers in the popular TV programme "All Creatures Great and Small".
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  • Birdoswald Roman Fort

    September 19, 2021 in England ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Birdoswald Roman Fort (originally called Banna) is situated on a commanding spur of land overlooking a meander of the River Irthing; originally a garrison for up to 800 soldiers, its defences are the best preserved of any along the Wall - it is close to Milecastle 49. There are excellent views of the surrounding countryside here (hence its location).  We have a good explore and look round the interesting and good museum there.

    The fort was reoccupied in the Middle Ages and was the target of raids by border reivers in the 16th century.  In the 19th century Victorian Birdoswald Farmhouse was constructed in the grounds of the Fort within metres of Hadrian’s Wall.
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  • Hadrian's Wall Path; part 2

    September 19, 2021 in England ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    We start at the Poltcross Burn Milecastle, Milecastle 48, just outside Gilsland; this is one of the best-preserved Milecastles on Hadrian's Wall and is unusually large as it contains two barrack blocks, an oven, a stair to the ramparts walk, and the remains of its north gateway.  It is known locally as The King's Stables. 

    We reach Willowford and walk along some beautiful and imposing sections of Hadrian's Wall to reach the bridge remains (abutments) of a Roman bridge that crossed the River Irthing. This part of Hadrian's Wall that leads up to Birdoswald is the longest continuous stretch visible today.

    After crossing the river, we head uphill to reach the Harrows Scar Milecastle, Milecastle 49, and walk up to the Birdoswald Roman Fort - there is an interesting carving on the wall as we get nearer.
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  • Hadrian's Wall Path; part 1

    September 18, 2021 in England ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    There are dramatic parts of the Hadrian's Wall Path either side of Housesteads as this is part of the Whin Sill escarpment, a tabular layer of igneous rock (dorolite). The the most intact parts of Hadrian's Wall are, not surprisingly, in the highest and least accessible parts of its course.

    We start at a dip in the crags known as King's Wicket, East of Housesteads and Milecastle 36. Passing the back of the fort to its west side, we reach trees and the path is actually on top of the wall. There are wonderful views looking ahead, and Hadrian's Wall does not look dissimilar to the Great Wall of China! We pass Hotbank Farm and we can see Crag Lough, an inland lake, ahead - but it is more spectacular looking back. We drop down to Sycamore Gap to pass a tree known as Robin Hood’s tree after its appearance in the ‘Prince of Thieves’ film, and soon reach Milecastle 39. Just before the Steel Rig car park (close to Milecastle 40) there are great views back to the Highshield Crags outcrop of the Whin Sill.
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  • Housesteads Roman Fort

    September 18, 2021 in England ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Housesteads Roman Fort (originally called Vercovicium) is set high on the Whin Sill escarpment, a strategic position as you can see for miles. It occupies a 5 acre site, could accommodate 1,000 infantry and cavalry and is Britain's most complete Roman Fort; outside was a Roman settlement. The Fort is between Milecastle 36 and 37.

    It is noted for its communal latrines, hygienically placed at the lowest corner of the fort. It is well known for its granary where you can see the pillars that supported a raised floor to keep food dry and free from vermin. There was also.a hospital here. The view looking East from the barrack blocks is excellent.
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  • Roman Temple of Mithras

    September 17, 2021 in England ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    The Roman Temple close to the Carrawburgh Roman fort (known as Brocolitia) was dedicated to Mithras; it dates from the third century. Only earthworks of Carrawburgh itself remain now; these are close to Milecastle 32.Read more

  • Chesters Roman Fort

    September 17, 2021 in England ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Chesters Roman Fort (originally called Cilurnum) is the best preserved cavalry fort in Britain. It was built to defend a weak point where Hadrian's Wall crossed the River North Tyne and was necessary to guard the roman bridge there. The fort had the standard four gates, officers quarters and barracks blocks, but is particularly noted for the garrison bath-house complex and is the best example in the UK; there were hot, cold and steam baths for the tired and weary soldiers. The nearest Milecastle is 26.

    We also visited the small museum in a listed building that displays some of John Clayton's excavations.
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  • Corbridge Roman Town

    September 17, 2021 in England ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Corbridge (originally called Coria) was founded well before Hadrian's Wall was built; the wall is 2.5 miles away to the north (the nearest Milecastle is 22). It was originally a military fort, but evolved into the most northerly town in the Roman Empire due to its position at the junction of two major Roman roads (Dere Street and Stanegate).

    We explore the ruins of the fort, seeing what would have been the main street, including the large granaries and market. The museum is excellent and we see the Corbridge Hoard, found in 1964 and concealed in a wooden chest hidden away by a footsoldier, and marvel at the sculptures, including the Corbridge Lion; found in 1907, it dates from the second century, and was originally intended to adorn a grave.
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  • Introduction

    September 17, 2021 in England ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Hadrian's Wall was built to reflect the northern extremity of the Roman Empire and not the boundary between Scotland and England, as many people think. Construction of the wall started in AD122 and was completed in AD128 under the stewardship of Emperor Hadrian; it is 73 miles long and runs from Wallsend in Newcastle, Tyne and Wear to Bowness-on-Solway, Cumbria and acted as both a military fortification and to control trade and immigration across its boundary; 16 forts and various towns were on its route and there were turrets every Roman mile (milecastles). The Romans also constructed a Military Road immediately south of the wall for troop movements etc. Hadrian's Wall formed the North West frontier of the Roman Empire until AD410, when serious invasions started from the North by the Picts.

    Much of the wall has been lost due its use for construction etc over the centuries; it is either simply not there or its route indicated by dry stone walling. Portions of it do remain, however, as do many Roman artefacts; this is thanks largely due to the efforts of John Clayton, a Victorian.

    It is possible to walk the course of the route that Hadrian's Wall took via an 84 mile long footpath There is also a road, the B6318, that runs along some of, and in parts parallel to, the old Military Road (with the footpath criss-crossing it). We take the road option, turning off close to West Denton close to where Milecastle 8 was situated, and plan to visit some of the main sites en route . We will be based at Haltwhistle; there is no time to explore the town though.
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  • Alnmouth

    September 16, 2021 in England ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Alnmouth is located at the mouth of the River Aln about 4 miles south east of Alnwick. Originally a small port supporting fishing and trade, Alnmouth is now a well conserved and picturesque coastal resort; this was partly the result of a violent storm in 1806 that changed the course of the river.

    We start at the Grade II listed stone Duchess Bridge and follow the estuary past the harbour and round to Alnmouth Bay. Walking up Northumberland Street, at the end we note the gardens for the Friary of St Francis are open and visit them. We walk up Bracken Hill and have great views of Alnmouth Bay. We then follow the Northumberland coastal path and walk along the beach to Marden Rocks, with the links of Alnmouth golf course on our left, up to Foxton Hall - now the club house - as far as Seaton. It has been a good visit, and we can recommend Alnmouth to potential visitors.
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  • Warkworth

    September 15, 2021 in England ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Warkworth village and its castle are situated in the neck of a tight loop in the River Coquet about 1 mile from the coast. The village was originally reached via an ancient bridge of two arches with a fortified gateway that crosses the river; we walk over this and visit the Church of St Lawrence, which dates from Norman times, before walking around the village.

    Warkworth Castle took shape during the 13th century, but gained glory during the Middle Ages when the Percy family - the Dukes of Northumberland who also owned Alnwick Castle - took it over. We cross the moat (empty) and enter via the impressive Gatehouse to see the large enclosure; the huge keep, with its tall and distinctive Great Tower, is directly ahead and we explore the many rooms here (we enjoy excellent views of the village and River Coquet estuary from the first floor). The enclosure / courtyard had state rooms added to it which were accessed via the Lion Tower; this still has the Percy heraldry on it. A church was built here also, but little remains of this.

    Outside, the castle has a hermitage associated with it; this is a short and pleasant walk down the River and on the opposite side, but it was unfortunately closed.
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  • Amble

    September 15, 2021 in England ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Amble is a town on the Northumberland Coast Path at the mouth of the River Coquet. We start our walk on the coast path close to the sand dunes near a small nature reserve. There are good views of Coquet Island from the path here; this has a lighthouse built on the remains of a medieval monastery. We pass the recently renovated Cliff House and walk via the South Jetty to the Town.

    We walk via the twee Harbour Village with its food stalls and gift shops on our way to the town square. Here , there is a large sundial (2001) in front of the large war memorial; the main street and St Cuthbert's Church are behind it. We follow the coast path via Warkworth Harbour and have great views of the boats in the marina. As the coast path heads towards the river across The Braid, there are excellent views of Warkworth Castle further upstream. The coast path is alongside the A1068 as it heads up to the next village - Warkworth.
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  • The Alnwick Garden

    September 14, 2021 in England ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    The site was derelict 10 years ago, but the Alnwick Garden today is one of the world’s most ambitious new gardens; its construction was the vision of The Duchess of Northumberland as a public garden for families to enjoy.

    We see the Grand Cascade, have a guided tour of the Poison Garden (for obvious reasons, you must be accompanied) and wander through the Cherry Orchard up to the magnificent Ornamental Garden. On the way back down, we wander through the Rose Garden, go through the dark maze that is the Bamboo Labyrinth and see the excellent water sculptures in the Serpent Garden. The features in the Roots and Shoots Garden are the result of collaborations with local schools and the NHS. On the way out, we pass The Trehouse; this is the largest wooden treehouse in the world: and built around 16 mature lime trees, which grow through and into the building, and is a restaurant with rooms linked by rope bridges (it is closed at present).

    The Alnwick Garden is a thoroughly recommended visit!
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  • Alnwick

    September 14, 2021 in England ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Today we visit Alnwick; once a village, Alnwick was eventually acquired by the Percy family, the Dukes of Northumberland, who built and expanded Alnwick Castle. The other family residence was Warkworth Castle (see future FP entry).

    Now a peaceful and thriving market town, Alnwick is accessed at the southern end by one of the original gates, the 15th century Hotspur Tower. There are many old buildings and monuments as we pass through to the market square. At the the northern end of town is Pottergate Tower and a modern statue celebrating Alnwick's famous son, Harry Hotspur (Sir Henry Percy, a 14th century knight who fought against the Scots and the French).

    Alnwick Castle is still owned by the current Duke of Northumberland and has featured in the Harry Potter films as Hogwarts. The lion is the family symbol of the Percy family and is featured on the main entrance to the castle and on bridge crossing the River Aln.
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  • Holy Island of Lindisfarne

    September 13, 2021 in England ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    The small island of Lindisfarne is only accessible by crossing a tidal causeway, so timing and planning is important. We park at the huge parking site and walk into the village to visit Lindisfarne Priory (English Heritage).

    Founded over 1400 years ago by an Irish monk called Aidan, the monastery became a bishopric in the Northumbrian Kingdom and converted to the religous practises of Rome under another monk, Cuthbert - both are now Saints. The isolated monastery fell prey to the Vikings and was eventually re-established as a richly decorated priory in the 12th century and it is the ruins of these that still remain.

    We walk to the castle next, passing the small harbour; it is a 16th-century fortification built on the highest point of the island - it was eventually converted into a "family home" by Sir Edwin Lutyens in 1901, with disused boats upturned and used as sheds. Lime kilns were built next to the castle on Castle Point in 1860 and used for 40 years until that industry declined.

    We explore the beach and walk back to the village via the small Gertrude Keller flower gardens, which she designed in 1911 using an existing walled structure. It's been another great day out.
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  • Bamburgh

    September 13, 2021 in England ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    We drive to Bamburgh via the coastal road on our way to Lindisfarne and stop for a visit.

    Walking into the village we see St Aidan's Church and have our first real view towards Bamburgh Castle - Bamburgh is all about its castle. We cross lawns, where local people are playing croquet, and head towards the beach.

    We walk along the beach past the castle and double back to the Harkass Rocks where there are lovely views in all directions - including that of our next destination.
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  • Low Newton by-the-Sea

    September 12, 2021 in England ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    As we leave Dunstanburgh Castle, the rocky shore eventually changes to sand; we have reached Embleton Bay. There is a golf course on our left as we walk along the beach; we turn off at the club house to walk a half mile uphill to the village of Embleton and the local shop. It is pretty here and we visit the Church of the Holy Trinity before heading back to the bay; en route we have a lovely, different view of the ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle - quite different to that from further along the bay.

    We cross Embleton Mouth, where the burn enters the North Sea, and walk along the sand to Low Newton by-the-Sea. In the distance on top of a hill is the former Coastguard Station; it is now a National Trust holiday cottage. There are good views out to the sea from the beach.

    Low Newton has a strong fishing heritage which is charterised by its picturesque three sided village square; the cottages were built in the 19th century for local fishermen. There is a nice looking pub here - The Ship Inn.
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  • Dunstanbourgh Castle

    September 12, 2021 in England ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Dunstanburgh Castle is a 1.3 mile walk along the coast from Craster; the village is the nearest access point.

    It was built in the early 14th century by Earl Thomas of Lancaster; the castle was intended both as a refuge and a statement of power, since the Earl was opposed to the Crown. Subsequently, Dunstanburgh's defences were expanded in the 1380s by John of Gaunt in the light of the threat from Scotland and the peasant uprisings of 1381. It is now owned by the National Trust and run by English Heritage; we are members and go in to explore (see pictures and captions).

    The castle was used as an observation post against invasion during WWII and we see some of the pill boxes as we leave and walk along the rocky shore towards Embleton Bay; once again, there are beautiul views as we look back.
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  • Craster

    September 11, 2021 in England ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    The drive from the main town of Alnwick to Craster takes you through the Gateway close to Craster Tower; this is an 18th-century Georgian Mansion where the rooms can be booked as holiday accommodation. Craster itself is a small fishing village with one pub, The Jollty Fisherman, and a small harbour; it is very famous for its kippers (smoked herring) and there is one smokehouse remaining - that of L. Robson and Sons.

    Crasyer is very picturesque and a lovely place to stay for a week. The ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle beckon further along the rocky shore as you leave the harbour.....
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  • Howick Burn to Craster

    September 11, 2021 in England ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We are in Northumberland and staying in Craster, which is on the coast. The Northumberland Coastline in an AONB (area of outstanding natural beauty) and one of our plans is to walk part of the coastal path (aka St Oswald's Way).

    We walk from Craster on a footpath heading inland via Craster South Farm and the outskirts of Howick Hall, the home of the Earls Grey (as in tea). From here it is down to Howick Burn, where it enters the North Sea, and a walk along the attractive route passing Sea Houses Farm and The Bathing House; this was built in the early 19th century by the 2nd Earl Grey who was the Prime Minister responsible for the passing of the Great Reform Bill of 1832. There are many more fine views as well back to Craster, including the ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle in the distance.
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  • Downham Market

    September 6, 2021 in England ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Downham Market is situated on a terrace overlooking the Great Ouse and was an important market centre for the surrounding agricultural area, as it incorporated a famous horse fair and weekly livestock and butter markets; the Town Hall was used as the Corn Exchange.  With the coming of the railway there was a rapid industrial and residential development into Downham Market; a steam mill was built next to the railway and this is now run by Heygates, one of the 4 main flour suppliers in the UK.

    At the southern end of the town centre is a decorative town sign depicting the crown and arrows of St Edmund with horses to show the importance of the horse fairs in the town's history.  At the Market Square, we see the Victorian Clock Tower and other old buildings, including the Town Hall and the Crown Coaching Inn.  Behind the Square is the medieval Parish Church of St Edmund, built of local carrstone, sited on the crest of a hill with fine views of the town and the fenland landscape beyond.  Walking back down the High Street we pass Castle Hotel (recently closed and scheduled to become flats), with its distinctive parapet, and then along Station Road we see the 18th-century Dial House (once a private school for gentlemen in the 1860s but now a bed and breakfast), with its sundial painted high on the wall.  We soon reach the Victorian era Downham Market railway station, also built of carrstone with pale brick dressings, and the old signal box; both are now Grade II listed buildings.  Next to the station is the distinctive looking Heygates Flour Mill, which is visible for miles around.  A short, but interesting, visit to the town.
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  • 3. Littleport to Ely

    September 6, 2021 in England ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    From Littleport railway station, I cross Sandhills Bridge and it is a 3 mile walk along the floodbank of the River Great Ouse to reach the hamlet of Queen Adelaide; this has three railway lines crossing its main street, each with a separate level crossing!  

    Further south, I divert to a factory area bearing right to Kiln Lane and the Roswell Pits; formerly a source of gault (aka Kimmeridge), an impervious clay, they are now a Site of Scientific Interest and a nature reserve.  There is an excellent view of Ely Cathedral from here.  I follow the trail along the river to pass Babylon ARTS, the leading arts organisation in Ely, and stop at Babylon Bridge for the magnificent view back; the bridge carries a private road to the various marinas that are on the other side of the river.  I pass the Jubilee Gardens and the Maltings (see Ely; the Eel Trail part 2) to reach Quayside, where there are lovely views of the marinas and various boats and barges mooring in Ely, before passing The Cutter Inn and walking to  Ely Railway Station.
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  • The Cambs Dykes 3 - Devil's Dyke

    August 20, 2021 in England ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Devil's Dyke runs in an almost straight line from Woodditton (just south of Newmarket) to Reach (north-west of Newmarket); it is over 7 miles (11 km) long and is the largest of the series of the four ancient Cambridgeshire dykes - in some places the bank measures 9 metres (30 ft) high and 36.5 metres (120 ft) across.  When it was created, Devil's Dyke completely blocked a narrow land corridor between the southern edge of a region of water-logged marsh (now known as The Fens) in the north-west and dense woodlands in the south, so making circumvention difficult and forming an effective defensive barrier for the lands to the east.  

    We start our walk at the southern access point of Devil's Dyke at Woodditton, passing the water tower; the Dyke initially passes through the woods of a private estate. The embankment is very high in parts here and is thickly enclosed by scrub and bushes. After a short while, we cross a minor road and then the B1061 before negotiating the steps down to the gap across the Cambridge to Newmarket railway line. 

    After crossing this, Devil's Dyke changes in character and becomes much more open, with chalk loving flowers along this stretch.  There are views of a links golf course before we enter the domain of horse racing, as the Dyke cuts between Newmarket's two famous courses - the Rowley Mile, with its Millennium Grandstand, and the July Course.

    Soon we reach, and cross, the A14 and have views of the surrounding flat farmland before reaching the B1102 to Burwell.  At last we arrive at the northern access point of the Devil's Dyke, close to the village of Reach, and the end of this great walk.

    There is a local Morris dancing side that is named after Devil's Dyke - follow this link to read more about them (us!).... devilsdykemm.org.uk
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