Living in: Cairns, Australia Read more Cairns, Australia
  • Day 20

    Home!

    July 13, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Home too fast! Sal feeling more alive, happy, healthy, energetic, and optimistic than in a long time. Drove up to Kuranda to collect Otis from his boarding holiday, Jack back home tomorrow night...

    In traditional list terms, 9 new birds for Sal this trip:
    Blue-billed duck
    Major Mitchell (Pink) cockatoo
    White-browed treecreeper
    Bluebonnet
    Chestnut-crowned babbler
    Mulga parrot
    Southern whiteface
    Painted honeyeater
    Chirruping wedgebill

    But the best part? Just having the time and space to follow, quietly, in the footprints of the Emus, and see what they are seeing...
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  • Day 19

    Home via Moorrinya NP, the Lynd, etc

    July 12, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Started the home leg of our trip intending to camp overnight at Moorrinya NP, just 150km up the road from Forest Den. We toured the park by car for several hours until early afternoon, stopping at water points that Martin had used to train the Lake Eyre Basin rangers in bird ID in Sep 2022. The park was relatively quiet, with good grass cover after recent rains, and the QPWS Rangers busy completing winter patch burning. We were reminded how much warmer the temperature had become when we narrowly avoided clipping a fast-moving Brown snake ducking for cover along the road to one of the dams. After checking out the campground, a tight circle of numbered, open campsites all facing each other, with 2 campers already in residence, we revisited plans; having failed to make contact with Jason, the head Ranger, to authorise an ad hoc bush camp spot, we lunched at Tom's dam and then headed out of the Park to put a dint in tomorrow's travel distance, backing ourselves to find a roadside camp en route for tonight.

    Some random bird highlights for Moorrinya:
    Collared sparrowhawk (at campground)
    Black-chinned HE (H)
    Spiny-cheeked HE
    Striped HE
    White-plumed HE
    Brown HE
    Grey fantail
    Striated pardalote (nesting in tiny road cuttings)
    Yellow-rumped thornbill
    Hooded robin
    Brown treecreeper

    We pressed on via Torrens Creek and Prairie, noting the changing vegetation as we headed north into different red and black soil habitats. We used the tourist drive road to cut across to the Kennedy Development Road and after checking out the Flinders River crossing, decided to camp the night at the roadside lookout with a spectacular view north towards Mount Spurgeon on the Dividing range. Unbelievably, not a single vehicle came past overnight, so we had the place all to ourselves - along with some Common Bronzewings, Owlet-nightjars, and the dingoes that howled to greet the sunrise from the gorge below.
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  • Day 18

    Mariala NP to Forest Den NP

    July 11, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Drove from Mariala NP to Forest Den NP via Adavale, Blackall, Barcaldine and Aramac. Stunning scenery along the drive north, esp to the east of Idalia NP. We came across another party of White-browed babblers along the road north of Adavale. No Grey Falcons were on any towers along the route, but we saw several Wedge-tailed eagles and numerous young Emus. Blackall a beautiful town - stocked up at the butchers and treated ourselves at the bakery - excellent produce!

    Camped overnight next to Torrens Creek. A couple of lovely open camp sites next to water. Heaps (8 degrees) warmer - 500 odd kms north and back up over that Tropic line! Did a quick morning drive through the park on the access road before leaving at 9.30am

    Species of interest + bird list for the Park itself:

    Black gidgee (Acacia argyrodendron) Coolabah (E. coolabah), Leopardwoods, Eremophila

    Common brush-tail possums, resident in the nearest dead tree hollow next to iur camp, were unafraid! Cheeky scar-bum dominant male took all our apple pieces, mum and juvenile (unsealed, on her back) had to find their own food!

    Royal spoonbill
    Striped HE
    Brown HE
    Spiny-cheeked HE
    White-plumed HE
    Singing HE
    Yellow-throated miner
    Black-breasted buzzard
    Little eagle
    Brown falcon
    Whistling kite
    Black kite
    Nankeen kestrel
    Black-shouldered kite
    Blue-winged kookaburra
    Galah
    Sulphur-crested cockatoo
    Budgerigar
    Pale-headed rosella
    Crested pigeon
    Peaceful dove
    Spotted bowerbird - resident near our camp, expert in convincing impersonations of Whistling kites and Owlet-nightjars!
    Brown treecreeper (many, roosting in tree hollows close to the camp)
    Grey-crowned babbler
    Purple-backed fairy-wren
    Jacky winter
    Willie wagtail
    Magpie-lark
    Australian magpie
    Grey butcherbird
    Pied butcherbird
    Rufous whistler
    Grey shrike-thrush
    Black-faced cuckoo-shrike
    Black-faced woodswallow
    Striated pardalote
    Yellow-rumped thornbill
    Weebill
    Horsfields bushlark
    Owlet-nightjar
    Boobook owl
    Australian raven
    Mistletoebird
    Double-barred finch
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  • Day 16

    Mariala National Park

    July 9, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We left our hilltop campsite west of Eromanga early on the morning of Martin's birthday, driving via Eromanga and Quilpie to Mariala NP. We again had ample travel time, so stopped to check for species of interest along the way. We came across several parties of Bourke's parrots feeding on seed and roosting in trees near small waterpoints, and stalked a number of Thornbill-dominated, mixed feeding flocks keeping an eye out for Slaty-backed thornbill (no luck), but finding plenty of Yellow and Yellow-rumped thornbills as well as the regular Inland and ubiquitous Chestnut-rumped thornbills. Sal scored a lovely few minutes closely watching a young male Crested bellbird chuk-chukking to himself contentedly as he preened in a tree.

    We arrived at Mariala NP mid-afternoon and were surprised by the combination of beauty, quality of the Mulga habitat, and the lack of other patrons (2 cars came out as we drove in; 1 caravan doubled back to camp, we think, at the roadside campground). We camped the first night at the Mariala rockpool site in the heart of the park, in a Mulga Grove adjacent to rockpools just below an edge of the escarpment that winds its way throughout the park. The wintery-quiet was broken only by Grey shrike-thrush calling, a vocal White-browed treecreeper doing an astounding "falling bomb" call that startled Martin at close range, a Singing honeyeater showing us the extent of his or her repertoire, a Grey butcherbird being hopeful, some soft thumps from unseen Yellow-footed Rock-wallabies nocturnally foraging, and the few planes that tracked their high-altitude way across the sky throughout the night.

    Next morning, we came across a party of White-browed babblers crossing the base of the 4WD track leading back up the escarpment. After driving up, we explored the escarpment day use area, catching a glimpse of two rock-wallabies' brilliantly- patterned ochre yellow/black pelage, and following parties of small insectivores as they chased invertebrates warmed by the rising sun. The sheer number of Splendid fairy-wrens hopping around on the ground like mice, their fluffed-up plumage backlit by the rays of the morning sun, had to be seen to be believed: we regularly had more than a dozen birds per party. They moved around with Thornbills, Red-capped robins, and White-browed treecreepers. We birded the tracks we could access throughput the park during the remainder of the day, including the area around the No 3 Bore campground, but apart from our regular insectivore troupes - one unsuccessfully accosted by a Grey butcherbird - birds were generally quiet in the cold conditions. But that didn't stop us having good encounters with Chestnut-breasted quail-thrush pairs, a raucous family of White-winged choughs, Mallee ringneck parrots, and more. After late-lunching at the roadside campsite, looking west over the escarpment, we camped up in the late afternoon at the old tank pad in the park. We sat for a couple of hours watching a pair of Common Bronzewings, Ringnecks, and Singing honeyeaters come in to drink at the dam; Magpies, Pied butcherbirds and Black-faced cuckoo-shrikes performing aerial manoeuvres to snatch insects from the air; a family of Purple-backed fairy-wrens trill around us; a Chestnut-rumped and a Yellow thornbill explore nearby foliage; a Grey-crowned babbler tear through en route to joining the remainder of his or her party; and a noisy young Australasian grebe repeatedly practise his take-off, flying and landing skills, watched by his parents.

    Bird list for the park:
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  • Day 15

    Noccundra to Eromanga

    July 8, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    After leaving Noccundra, we drove north towards Eromanga, on a road that Martin hadn't previously driven, taking our time and intending to wing it for a bush camp that night.

    We found an unlikely little birding sweetspot late morning, at a degraded roadside area carved out for stock watering points, and peppered with mature Mimosa bushes. There, we discovered another pair of Chestnut-breasted quail-thrush, a party of Chestnut-crowned babblers, Red-capped robins, a group of Black-tailed native hens a
    clambering on top of each other to hide from us under a shrub, and - lo and behold - Sal's first ever Chirruping wedgebills! What a fantastic duet the male and female do!! We persisted for some time, striving for good looks, and left content with some not-bad-at-all views, only to stumble next upon group after group of them as we advanced along the road: the birds were clearly making the most of the local Mimosa infestations, heartily mounting the shrubs and echoing each other from the mounds, in significant numbers. Sal recorded their crazy song (uploaded here).

    As we had heaps of travel time, we used the scope several times to study closely some obliging Australasian grebes (Sal getting her head around distinguishing features for Hoary-headed), Bourke's parrots, Bluebonnets, Red-capped robins and Chestnut-rumped thornbills at different stops.

    We pulled off the road around 10km west of Eromanga and found a disused exploration track that led to a sheltered grove on top of a rocky rise, where we decided to camp the night. Taking an exploratory walk in the late afternoon, we pursued thornbills, red-capped robins, honeyeaters and Chestnut-breasted quail-thrush aplenty, finding ourselves some distance off track, and Sal more than a little bit disoriented, as the sun fell in the west. Thanks to Marty's inbuilt GPS, we warmed ourselves up tackling an extended, early evening, cross-country walk back to the camp site, rousing a resting Emu in the process! (Poor thing - s/he looked quite disgruntled, abruptly arising from what was clearly a sleeping position adopted for the night!) Glorious sunset views, followed by a cold night and clear dawn for Martin's birthday! 🍾🎂
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  • Day 14

    Wilson River at Noccundra waterholes

    July 7, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Arrived early afternoon and found a spot well away from all other campers, on one of the more southerly channels of the Wilson River. Birded around the area that afternoon (MC without Sally, who had to do her programming assignment!), and then (together) the next morning - combing the lignum swamp in the channels for any sign of Grey Grasswren...

    Left the next morning after the birding session, grabbing a coffee, sausage rolls, and wine stock from the friendly Noccundra Hotel.

    Bird list for the camp and nearby area:

    Emu
    Australian pelican
    Australian wood duck
    Pacific black duck
    Black-fronted dotterel
    Black-tailed native hen
    Masked lapwing
    White-necked herons
    White-faced heron
    Great egret
    Plumed egret
    Brolga
    Wedge-tailed eagle
    Whistling kite
    Black kite
    Nankeen kestrel
    Brown falcon
    Black falcon (harassed others on the channel at sunrise)
    Australian owlet-nightjar
    Galah
    Cockatiel
    Little corella
    Budgerigar
    Red-winged parrot
    Bourke's parrot
    Common bronzewing
    Crested pigeon
    Peaceful dove
    Black-faced cuckoo-shrike
    White-bellied cuckoo-shrike (intermediate darkish morph bird, with darkish throat and streaks at top of breast, around face, presumably robusta ssp)
    Red-backed kingfisher
    Welcome swallow
    Tree martin
    Fairy martin
    Weebill
    Purple-backed fairy-wren
    White-winged fairy-wren
    Singing HE
    White-plumed HE
    Spiny-cheeked HE
    Painted HE (beautiful adult male)
    Yellow-throated miner
    Brown treecreeper
    Black-faced woodswallow
    White-breasted woodswallow
    White-browed woodswallow (inc one with yellow eye!)
    Masked woodswallow
    Pied butcherbird
    Australian magpie
    Australian raven
    Little crow
    Spotted bowerbird
    Magpie-lark
    Willie wagtail
    Jacky winter
    Rufous whistler
    Grey shrike-thrush
    Mistletoebird
    Rufous song lark
    Double-barred finch
    Zebra finch
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  • Day 13

    Thargomindah to Cooper Creek

    July 6, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 22 °C

    Drove from Lake Bindegolly, refuelling and stocking up at Thargomindah, towards the Cooper Creek crossing west of Jackson Oil Field. The drive took us over the Grey Range and through huge gibber plains - all strikingly green with forbs due to the rains.

    Along the drive we stopped when Martin spotted a Quail-thrush running across the road. We jumped out to investigate and were rewarded with memorable views of a female Chestnut-breasted Quail-thrush and then her (male) partner: both had hunkered down under bushes, with the male calling incessantly to his other half from across the highway. We watched until they were safely reunited!

    We checked out every accessible repeater tower en route for Grey Falcons - but no evidence was found.

    We camped on the bank of the Cooper Creek at the westernmost crossing, having found an accessible spot sheltered from the biting westerly wind and out of view of gas and oil field traffic.

    Though in a different river system, the area felt comfortingly familiar to the Georgina. The riverbed, banks and surrounding floodplain and levees were studded with apparently endless chunks of good quality chert and some silcrete; unsurprisingly, given this and the major status of the drainage system, surface artefacts were visible everywhere we walked, consistent with the entire area having been used continuously, for thousands of years, as an interconnected system of stone tool quarry, trading, resource and meeting sites.

    We tried to walk gently, and the country was kind to us, offering a sheltered night and heightened experiences. We birded in the tall lignum north of the crossing until sundown after arriving, and then again on the southern side the next morning - when we were rewarded with glorious views of Painted Honeyeaters feeding on the fruiting mistletoe and flowering Eremophila bushes. Above us was a regular stream of migratory waterbird traffic in flight-formation: fish-seeking Pelicans and Cormorants (Little black and a few Great) moving north, and filter-feeding Royal spoonbills moving south, following the main channels in search of better conditions up/downstream, following the recent rains.

    List for the area (*including the drive in from Thargomindah):

    Little eagle
    Painted honeyeaters - 4 birds, at least one a bit younger, all with black tips to their bills; feeding on fruiting mistletoe clumps and flowering Eremophila bushes - I had excellent views as the birds repeatedly came back to roost, sing and glean insects near to where we sat
    Brown quail calling
    White-necked herons
    White-faced herons
    Whistling and Black kites
    Brown falcons
    Black-shouldered kites
    Nankeen kestrel
    Wedge-tailed eagle
    Pacific black duck
    Pink-eared duck
    Bourke's parrots
    Red-rumped parrots
    Horsfields bronze-cuckoo (2 birds, including one immature bird)
    Fairy martins
    Tree martins
    White-plumed HE
    Yellow-throated Miners
    Spiny-cheeked HE
    Mistletoebird
    Zebra finches
    Grey shrike-thrush
    White-winged fairy-wren
    Purple-backed fairy-wren
    Australian raven
    Orange chats
    Crimson chats
    Gibberbird
    Willie wagtail
    Magpie-lark
    Australian magpie
    Little black cormorant (flocks heading north)
    Great cormorant -in with the little blacks
    Australian pelican - migrating North in flocks
    Spoonbill (unsure whether Yellow or Royal) - migrating south
    Straw-necked Ibis
    White-browed woodswallows
    Masked woodswallows
    Black-faced woodswallows
    Jacky winters
    *Red-capped robins
    *Chestnut-breastfed Quail-thrush

    But alas... no Grey grasswren, nor Chirruping wedgebill...
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  • Day 11

    Lake Bindegolly

    July 4, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Thank Lord Bluebonnet, the rain had almost stopped! It's funny how 12 degrees feels different when it isn't accompanied by soaking rain! Turned out that Thargomindah had 15 mm in the 24 hrs to 9am - enough to close all the unsealed roads and stop us checking out Jonny Schoenjahn's Grey falcon nesting site on a repeater tower 50-odd km south of town on Pickarilli station.

    We left our somewhat optimistically-named Oasis Motel mid-morning, better-tempered, and looking forward to enjoying more favourable weather, bush camping on the shores of Lake Bindegolly for the next 2 nights. We took a short detour to the south of town, down the first, sealed section of the Bulloo Downs/Hungerford Road, to check out the hundreds upon hundreds of White-browed and Masked woodswallows going gangbusters in the nectar of the flowering Yapunyahs lining the channels along the Bulloo River. Parties of Chestnut-crowned babblers were frenetically upending leaves and bark, hopping and flying between fallen timber and Mulga stands, making up for the insect-feeding time they lost to rain and low temps the day before. A determined female Button-quail of some variety (presumably Little or Red-chested) called incessantly from the bush near us.

    We spent 2 nights camping on the shores of the southern lake, as the weather cleared to glorious vistas - perhaps the best being the morning we left, when we saw parties of Emus silently crossing the lake from west to east, leaving an expanding silver wake behind them. During our stay, we combed the lignum on the southern lake's western shore, studied the waterfowl with our scope (the camp site itself was a fine spotting site, thanks to the power of the Kowa!), and spent the best part of our second day walking the 13+ kms from our camp to the shores of the nearly-empty northern Lake and back. That walk was AWESOME: although the lake was nearly dry, and the default bird viewing site an island in a sea of dried-up, salt-lined clay, the sheer grandeur of the site was palpable. Our scope-carting efforts were vindicated with good views of a flock of over 1000 ducks - mostly Grey and Chestnut teal, with some Wood ducks and Pacific blacks - making the most of what the site still had to offer. Thick pieces of eggshell were visible most places we walked along the shoreline, presumably from the last breeding event for Australian pelicans. We returned via the red sandy dunes south of the northern lake, noting the Acacia communities - including the rare Acacia ammophila individuals protected by the Park's gazettal - along the way.

    Circuit walk around the Lake 9am to 3pm Wednesday:
    Northern Lakes have almost dried out. Only a few v shallow areas remaining.
    One flock of c 200 birds, mixed Wood Ducks and Teal, on small Lake in gully on south side of walking track approaching bird viewing point
    One flock of c. 350 Aust wood ducks on northern Lake visible from bird viewing area
    One large flock of c 1500 ducks on northernmost Lake, comprising 7 Hardheads, 7 Pacific black duck, remainder 3/4 Grey teal, 1/4 Chestnut teal (but hard to judge latter at a distance of c 600m in the grey light, males all in eclipse plumage)

    A flock of around 25 Australian pelicans in V-formation flew south over us, investigating and then passing the southern lake ... but 2 of the birds broke away and headed back north... later, one of them returned south again... leaving us musing about their decision-making, communication, and how the birds (re)find each other over such vast areas

    Also:
    Orange chats c 20
    Black Honeyeater (1 male, 1 female)
    White-winged fairy-wren parties
    White-backed swallows
    Welcome swallows
    Tree martins
    Pied Honeyeater (1 bird)
    Chestnut-crowned babblers
    Pink (Major Mitchell) cockatoo
    Stubble quail (2)
    Emu (many... 1 of whom kindly left some feathers on the trail for me to use in my new hat 😊 - possibly the same bird who deposited a massive, purple splat of a poo on the trail: exactly the colour of the ripe Ruby saltbush berries we watched them improbably-delicately feeding on!)

    Other bird highlights for the park and surrounding area:
    White-browed, Masked woodswallows
    Black-faced woodswallows
    Chestnut-crowned babblers
    Mulga parrots
    Blue bonnets
    Black falcon
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  • Day 10

    Currawinya to Thargomindah

    July 3, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Light rain started stippling the tent in Currawinya in the early hours, prompting Sally to disrupt Martin's sleep with questions about road conditions and how much would need to fall before the main access would become impassable. As usual, reality sided with Martin's refusal to worry, and the rain stopped until we were leaving the park the next morning, allowing us to take the more adventurous northern exit road. We got through (or around) all the black soil stretches, spotting Bourke's parrots, assorted Thornbills, Southern whiteface, and Babbler parties along the way. The habitat was varied, and at one point we stopped at a small crossing not far from the park boundary to note some fascinating nodular rock formations that we speculated might have their geological-time origins in processes associated with the area's many geothermal springs.

    After exiting Currawinya, we drove to Lake Bindegolly to check out the state of the lakes and the bush camping sites nearby. The southern side of the lake had a good expanse of water and significant numbers of waterfowl, but the vast northern side appeared mostly dry, with only a couple of smaller waterbird roosts on its margins. The bush camping sites were, unsurprisingly given the bleak conditions, unoccupied. Yet for some reason, Sal failed to leap at the opportunity of occupying one and reliving her memories of Scottish moors and British bird hides in winter... Indeed, faced with a fading afternoon of set-in rain, sub-10 temperatures, and a relentless wind chill factor, Sal spat the dummy. After a small stand-off in which we each marshalled the best and worst of our communication skills, we resolved to resort to man-made shelter in the form of motel accommodation in Thargomindah for the night. Phew.

    After more than an hour of washing mud off footwear and the floor of the motel room, then sink-washing clothes that weren't going to dry for several days yet (!), Sal's spirits rose as the result of a hot shower, a change of clothes, and a stint tackling her just-released computer programming assignment that was due Friday week and pressing on her conscience - after which Marty's spirits also rose, because Sal was no longer shitty! 😝

    Next morning, as the rain eased to showers, we stocked up on fuel, ice, fine Thargomindah produce and hot chips at the roadhouse-cum-general-store, and struck back out for Bindegolly...
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  • Day 9

    Currawinya National Park

    July 2, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    Wow. If only... we had more time... it hadn't rained on us... we had gone earlier in the year... etc, etc. We arrived at Currawinya mid-afternoon on our first Saturday away, spent 2 nights camping there and 2 days exploring, but feel like we only scraped the surface of what the habitats had to offer...

    We wanted to get to the major lakes, Wyara (salt) and Numalla (freshwater), before the predicted rainfall event hit and closed the park - and we succeeded in doing that. Currawinya is part of a Ramsar-listed inland lake system, hosting internationally significant numbers of resident and migratory waterbirds during intermittent flood periods - the former using the area as part of a vast network of breeding sites whenever conditions are suitable. At the time of our visit, Lake Wyara was all miragey promise: a scintillating vista of faithfully-reflective salt, glistening confusingly on the impossibly-vast claypan before us. We walked through samphire down to the dry shoreline, watched by bemused Red kangaroos, to test out the strength of the freshly-crusted mud surface under our boots, and ponder the wanderings the Emus must have recently done to leave their prints meandering off into the middle distance... Only White-winged fairy-wrens, Orange chats, Little crows and Aussie ravens made their presence felt. Just 2 months ago, this area held thousands of resident waterfowl, hundreds of migratory waders, and even Blue-winged parrots - but now, Nada! Just a huge expanse of silence. Nearby, small waves were lapping noisily on the shores of Lake Numalla, but even fewer birds were present there. We had caught the lakes between seasons.

    Our tent (it was still showering!) looked out over the northern end of the southern part of the lake, extending south from the channel (crossed by the main road) connecting the lake's northern side. Without walking anywhere, we could watch troops of graceful Red-necked Avocet silently advancing in line formation across the shallow lake waters, sweeping their bills from side to side to feed. At first light, flotillas of Grey and Chestnut teal, Australian wood ducks, Pacific black ducks, and Hardhead moved between their nocturnal roost behind the lignum and the open waters.

    Elsewhere in the park, Sal found her first Southern whitefaces, keeping company with flocks of Chestnut-rumped thornbills, Red-capped robins and White-browed treecreepers. Mulga parrots and Major Mitchell (Pink) cockatoos became familiar sights, along with groups of rampaging Chestnut-crowned babblers.

    Before we left the park on our last morning, as showers started to fall from the freezing, leaden skies, we investigated an eroded gully where we had seen White-backed swallows sallying the evening before - hoping to confirm Martin's suspicion they would be using nest holes in the gully walls as roosts. Two birds were patrolling the skies and chittering stridently as we walked quietly through the gully. Sal had no sooner pointed out a nest hole with droppings (evidence of recent use) than we were surprised by the sight of 5 White-backed swallows parachuting out of another hole only a few feet in front of us, taking to the air and joining their colony members in noisy flight. Before we knew it, there were just over 20 birds in the sky - around the same number we had seen over the stony rise up the hill the evening before. Feeling exhilarated, but a little guilty for disturbing their energy-saving slumber on such a non-productive morning, we exited the scene, leaving them to return to sleep out the poor weather.

    Bird list for the park and surrounds:
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