Dakar, Senegal - Village

Continued 20 photos and 2 videos (see the text in the last post - "Greeting")
Continued 20 photos and 2 videos (see the text in the last post - "Greeting")
Another part of their culture is their beautiful and colorful costumes that are worn every day. These colors and styles are not kept for special occasions but everyday dress when shopping and doing daily activities. Another interesting part of their culture is their dependence on each other and the baobab tree, Africa’s “Tree of Life”, an icon that represents the soul of Africa and the source of many remedies and folklore. We learned the baobab is a prehistoric species which predates both mankind and the splitting of the continents over 200 million years ago. Native to the African savannah (growing in 32 African countries and living up to 5,000 years) where the climate is extremely dry and arid, it is a symbol of life that has evolved and adapted in a landscape where little else can live. As a succulent, it absorbs and stores water in its vast trunk, enabling it to produce a nutrient-dense fruit in the dryer times. Also, due to their large size, Baobab trees provide shelter, food and water.
Baobab is the only fruit in the world that dries naturally on its branch. Instead of dropping and spoiling, it stays on the branch and bakes in the sun for 6 months - transforming its green velvety coating into a hard coconut-like shell. The pulp of the fruit dries out completely. This means the fruit simply needs to be harvested, deseeded and strained to produce a delicious pure fruit powder.
We found that every part of the baobab tree is valuable - the bark can be turned into rope and clothing, the seeds can be used to make cosmetic oils, the leaves are edible, the trunks can store water and the fruit is extraordinarily rich in nutrients and antioxidants. Also, women in Africa have turned to the baobab fruit as a natural source of health and beauty for centuries. Unlike many other supplements, baobab powder does not have to be spray-dried, freeze-dried or transformed in any way. It is 100% pure fruit in its natural form. Incredibly, the fruit has a natural shelf life of 3 years so there are no preservatives or additives whatsoever. Aduna Baobab Powder is one of the health and beauty world's best kept secrets. It is an extremely rich source of vitamin C, almost 50% fibre and has the highest antioxidant content of any whole fruit. The benefits of baobab include: energy release immune function, digestive health and healthy, younger-looking skin producing collagen.Baca lagi
PengembaraI love the colorful dresses. I don't think I could keep the big basket on my head.
PengembaraI couldn't get enough of the bright colors and patterns (I think I've taken over 100 photos thus far)!...and it seems like everyone carries stuff on their heads and rarely anything in their arms - it amazes me each time I see it.
Today, March 19th, Harriet Beecher Stowe published her book, Uncle Toms Cabin, about slavery. We continued to learn more about the history of slavery in this part of the World. Today on our third stop in Africa and we went to City of Banjul, The Gambia, a city of 2.4M residents in a mere 4400 sq miles. Although slavery was abolished in 1807, there was a significant history of slavery here. In the 17th - 19th centuries there were more than 3 million slaves in The Gambia.
The Gambia, the smallest African Country, is surrounded on 3 sides by Senegal and one side by the Atlantic Ocean with a river that runs through the entire country. We went to the largest market in The Gambia, Banjul Albert Market. What a “challenging” experience it was. We took a bus there and they left us off in an area that could only be described as looking like a garbage dump at the end of a bumpy, dirt road lined with trash. When we got off (other people refused and asked to be taken right back to the ship) we “found” a young person (Albert) who did not speak English but wanted to show us around. Yes, English is the official language but many do not speak/understand English but some version of many African languages and French. It seemed like a very “iffy area” but we proceeded with Albert as he took us through a maze of rows and stalls, making and selling everything from used clothing, chickens, vegetables in all stages of being cut and cleaned, grains and herbs, fish (dead and alive), chickens, “coffee” (you will have to ask for more info) and broken TV sets. Should I go on?
It was such an incredible scrapheap of items one on top of another in makeshift stalls of cloth and any materials around with barely a place to walk. No aisles, dark, very smelly and we no longer had any idea where we were! Even Karen, my compass, was quickly turned around and we were lost most of the time that we walked with Albert. It got “more interesting” when Albert was “surprisingly” joined up by another young person that spoke English and joined the walk. Was this planned or not, where were we going now? They pointed out some items and at least now we understood what he said but at the same time he was “slick” and he was “very aggressive” and wanted to take us deeper into this maze of garbage.
We insisted that we had to go back to where they found us where the bus dropped us off at the trash heap. After another dozen twists and turns and 10 nervous minutes we ended up about a block from the bus. At this point of course they began to get more anxious looking to deal for payment. The good news is one of the entertainers from the ship (thx Keenan) saw us in an uncomfortable place and ran over to “help”. We quickly got out and back to the bus and safety. We were probably not in danger, but the situation might have been a risky one, we just could not tell. This was our experience in the market in Gambia.
Once we relaxed, we realized the worst part of this experience was recognizing the real sad situation that people were in, working in conditions that were unbearable, in dirt and with terrible smells and endless crowds. Most of these people are so poor and with no real hope of getting out of this situation. Very sad.Baca lagi
32123 - Today is Palidrome, the digits are the same in both directions. It may also be called the earths palidrome in that it is vernal equinox, 12 hours of daylight and 12 hours of night. Today the sun is exactly on the equator so all latitudes have equal amounts of daylight and darkness. Currently we are only 250 (4 degrees) miles from the equator!Baca lagi
20 photos plus 2 videos (after first 2 photos)
Cote d’lvoire or as it is known now, the Ivory Coast is a diverse country of 30 million people with many ethnicities, living very different lives from very traditional to modern, very poor to very rich (the gap gets wider) but we found everyone to be very friendly and welcoming. The flag is Orange (savannah pastures), White (for the rivers and peace) and green (the forest and agriculture). The symbol for this Country which is often seen in their handiwork (made with ivory) is the elephant but unfortunately the number of elephants has decreased from 5000 to maybe 300 in the last few decades, due to the deforestation there.
Welcome to Akwaaba and ABIDJAN, as we were all greeted. The city became a town in the Ivory Coast in 1903, and now is the largest city and economic capital since 1934. Over 6 million people live here, and they gained Independence from France in 1960 and is still mostly French speaking. It is very much an agriculture-oriented Country. All the embassies are here in Abidjan as well as the political power. It is strategically located on a lagoon and set up for trade after its wharf was expanded in 1951.
We left with a great police escort of “acrobatic” motorcycle police (they were constantly weaving and pushing traffic away - all 6 of the videos in the 3 posts are from the bus and 5 highlight our escort adventures) that managed the traffic in all directions to clear the very crowded road for us in a way that can only be described a “parting of the sea” … but a winding and crowded sea. We traveled from Abidjan and spent the entire day covering the area between the coast and Grand Bassam, the former colonial capital of the Cote d’lvoire in the late 1893 till 1900. We saw many locals as we traveled, mostly selling their goods, and they were all friendly. We heard that sometimes small children are “scared” by white people because it is strange to them but we did not see this happen.
Founded in 1469 by the Portuguese but not inhabited by Europeans until the 17th Century, it was originally the home to Aboriginal Aboure Bassam (royalty), Nzima (from families in neighborhoods of France) and the Ehotile living in harmony. In 1842, the French agreed to a treaty making this piece of land French and in 1893 it became a colony of the Ivory Coast and its Capital. The people of the Ivory Coast are mostly Muslim (42%) although with missionaries coming beginning in 1895, a large Christian presence came and grew (40%) and the rest original Aboriginal or non-affiliated.
Due to a yellow fever epidemic this Capital in Grand Bassam was abandoned in 1896 to move to Abidjan (there is a monument paying tribute to the victims). The city had some very difficult times as can be seen by all the colonial buildings that are now lost or abandoned including government offices, but it still has areas of quaintness as well as modern development making it a UNESCO site in 2012.
We learned a lot about the government which is a Republic with a President. There are many tribes and 60 different ethnic groups here. Dyula is the language spoken since it is considered a trade language in West Africa although there are many other dialects. The people and their customs including the fact that most families have 1-5 wives, and each wife has up to 10 children. After 10 children, they need to give up the children for adoption. Strange. Most marriages are “arranged” so that they can avoid incest (since there are so many siblings that are related in each family). Makes sense!
We drove by the first 1911 Courthouse in the Country, the place where we heard about the famous 1949 militant woman’s freedom march was heard (2000 women marched Abidjan to Bassam, 30 miles, a long way) to protest their husbands arrest for protesting the French colonial rulers and WON. Led by Marie Kore from Treichville this victory is marked by the statue, The Place of Peace. We also went over their Bridge of Victory (1929). We passed the old post office / customs office built in 1894 and now houses the Conservation department. Another stop was the old Bank Central Africa, the first bank from 1900 and the first hospital.
We visited the Palace of Governor built in 1893 was the home of 4 leaders of the Country from 1893-1902 (now the National Costume Museum since 1981) and saw native garb and models of traditional houses from all over the country. Our guide told us stories about tradition, hierarchy and roles that elders held in ancient societies and how home compounds were laid out across the Country.Baca lagi
20 photos plus 2 videos at the end
Our next stop was the Assoyam Beach Resort where we had lunch and walked on the beach. I spent some time having an interesting discussion with a person I met who was here for a convention on social protection for those that live in “French countries” when they travel the world. It was very interesting. I finally made it back to lunch which was quite a large meal with something for everyone to eat and drink. No time to swim in the Ocean but we did get to walk on the beach and check out the wares.
We saw many Mango trees originally planted in 1898 by the Governor. We were told that even though there are many mango trees here, you see palms and some yucca trees (in places as they were used for many years as grave markers). Many were still there and producing fruit from over 100 years ago. We went to the Artisanal Center to see the craft market which had scarves, wickerwork, ceramics, batik, and brass carvings. For a week every year, tribes are invited to the sacred forest. We were going to pass the Sacred Forest… but our police escort missed it. Instead, we heard all about it as we continued our weaving through traffic.
Our next stop on the way back was Cocod, a suburb of and a beautiful wealthy area, totally different from the areas we were in for almost the entire day. It is where the business people, ambassadors, and other affluent people live in Abidjan. The Université Félix Houphouët-Boigny is also located in Cocody. We stopped at St Pauls Cathedral, a very large modern Catholic Cathedral (14,000 sq feet) with room for 5,000, designed by Italian architect Aldo Spirito, and this $12 million church was dedicated in 1985 by Pope John Paul II.Baca lagi
20 photos plus 2 videos at the end
Next was a visit to the Museum of Civilization. At the entrance is a colossal elephant’s skull. The museum has objects dating from 10,000 BC right up to the 21st century from all regions of Ivory Coast showing the history of the area in masks, ornaments, musical instruments and Paleolithic tools.
Our very last stop was at another very large maze of vendors in a craft market but of course we walked around took some interesting photos but did not buy anything.
A long but interesting day.Baca lagi
PengembaraI’m amazed at how the women balance so much on their heads. How do they do that? And the huge divining rod was fascinating. Was it used to find water?
AKWAABA ("aqua-bah") or WELCOME!
We visited Sekondi and Takoradi, the twins cities (combined in 1946) in Ghana (meaning king), the capital of the Western Region and the largest industrial and commercial center. Ghana encompasses 92,000 square miles (where the Atlantic becomes the Gulf of Guinea) with 32 million people (only Nigeria has more people in Africa). Over 40% of the Country is under 15 years old (only 3% over 65). Main industries are timber, cocoa, ship building and recently, oil. Sekondi was the site of Dutch Fort Orange in 1642 and the English Fort Sekondi in 1682. Takoradi was the site of Dutch Fort Witsen in 1665 and is known for its deep water seaport. The main occupation in both these places is fishing. About half the people are still indigenous Ahanta and Christians make up 55% and Muslims are 35% and the Country overall believes strongly in religious freedom. Of the many African languages, about 100 different ones are spoken here in different Ghanaian geographies.
In 1960 Ghana became a republic with a President after the British gaining control of the country beginning in the 19th Century. It was the first colony in West Africa to achieve Independence and continued to be very influential for the many of the Africa countries becoming independent. Ghana has been very cooperative in International politics, has a strong US relationship and is active in the UN (we remember Secretary-General of the UN Kofi Annan who received the 2001 Nobel Peace Prize for his humanitarianism, his opposition to terrorism and his work in stopping the spread of HIV in Africa).
We learned the expression “Ago”/”Ame” used in Ghana and is a great way to ask for someone’s attention and showing they have it. The first person says “AGO”, meaning listen up (calling for attention) and the other person(s) respond “AME”, meaning I am listening. It seems to be a nice way to show respect for what a person wants to “ask or say” by showing your interest in what they say.
There are 20 photos followed by 2 videos. Since we could only put 2 videos in each post, the videos here also go with the next post which are of us walking through the VERY busy fish market. We had to walk single file through with many guides along to keep people from getting lost in the crowd!Baca lagi
If you are reading this post before the other one from Ghana, there are two videos at the end of that post that you should watch first. Then in this post there are 17 photos, followed by 2 videos, followed by 3 more photos.
We stopped for an adventurous walk through the crowded fishing harbor of Albert-Bosomtwi-Sam to watch these hard-working people get their fish to market (believe it or not, the fish market is 1.4 miles long ... that's a lot of fish). Looking at the photos, you can see how busy everyone is mid-day (they were busier in the morning when fishing) but still respectful of each others crowded space and very friendly to strangers. We then visited the ice making plant next door to understand how they make the 1200 kg blocks of ice required every day to keep the fish fresh. Interesting operation.
We drove around the two cities to get an understanding of the people and the culture and see how they live. While touring these cities we learned about family life including how names are based upon when you are born (ie, Kofi means Friday). They are named on the 8th day after birth in a very elaborate ceremony (sounded like a bris to me, maybe without an important part). Learning “truth” is an important part of the ceremony for the child’s entire life. Yes, this means there are only 14 names (7 for males and 7 for females) in the entire country. That is correct in general with few exceptions. Yes, there is the big Kofi, the short Kofi, the good looking Kofi…. Women’s roles are very traditional and girls learn about cooking and motherhood at a very young age. Boys learn about agriculture and how to take care of the land and crops and support their family. We also learned about how arranged marriages are organized and the dowry process (given by the man’s family).
Next we had a few hours snacking and seeing a cultural show with some incredible drumming and dancing … and drinking. A lot of fun, relaxing and refreshing. Social dancing is very important to the Ghanaians. Lastly before we got back to the port I asked about the many Ghanaians we find in the U.S. serving in roles of home health aides throughout the country. I was told that is very true since many women are very well-trained nurses and work in social services in general in Ghana. When they come to the U.S. and U.K. they often choose to be in those fields, easily lending itself to the empathy and care required of home health aides for the elderly that remain in their homes these days. Thank you Ghana or MEDASE ("May Dah Say") Thank you.Baca lagi
PengembaraThank you Ed (& Lilia). We heard about the tornado near you and heard from Eddie and Kathy that you were ok. Virtual hugs from both of us!
We landed in the port at Lomé to an energy filled greeting with singers, dancers and stilt walkers. It is the capital of Togo. Togo is boarded by Ghana, Burkina Faso, and Benin. It is 22,000 sq miles (long and narrow) and has a population of about 8.6 million people. As the colonial town that had German, British and African traders it became the capital of Togoland in 1897. It was a key location for these traders selling their wares and getting away from paying British taxes. It is a key center of their economy from exports of coffee and cocoa and with the production of oil as its major product. They became independent in 1960 and their primary language is French. We did not spend any time in this city because we had a big afternoon outside the city. We drove by some lovely beaches in our way to Sanguera.
There are 10 photos, followed by 1 video, then 10 more photos and 1 more video.Baca lagi
PengembaraAren’t the children just beautiful? Africa touched me like nowhere else I have been ❤️
PengembaraKatie - I totally agree! I started crying as we left as I was so emotional about the experience…