Japan and Taiwan

November 2023
Bullet Trains, Ramen and Coldplay Read more
  • 13footprints
  • 3countries
  • 14days
  • 84photos
  • 4videos
  • 16.6kkilometers
  • 12.3kkilometers
  • Day 1

    Breakfast in Dallas

    November 4, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    This is the 2nd post I am writing this morning. The 1st was while I was waiting
    for the Japan Airlines counter to open. I had only a cup of coffee and cold medicine, and I was grumpy. Then I felt guilty for feeling grumpy, but felt better after I wrote about it. So I guess the 1st draft was meant for me.
    I’m tired, have a wicked head cold and that little voice in my head is asking me what the hell are we about to go do? Japan? Alone?
    But I want to take the bullet trains. I found out Coldplay was playing 2 nights in Tokyo when I am going to be there- and I actually got tickets for both nights!! And because I didn’t think I would be able to get them (through the Japanese lottery system) I scheduled a side trip to Kaohsiung Taiwan, where they are playing 2 nights and I got tickets for both of those shows!🤦‍♀️
    So yes, your math is right. I’m going to see 4 Coldplay concerts. And I’m really excited.
    And I want to eat lots of ramen and take lots of trains and sing my heart out to my favorite band of the last 20 years.
    So yes, little shitty scared voice. We are going on an adventure.
    So I just finished breakfast in the Amex Centurion lounge. It was nice, but the business class lounges are better. They had Cherry Grits. The accompaniments were sweet, and I’m a savory grits kind of girl. But everything was delicious, the chairs are comfy and they ID everyone who comes in, so it feels a bit safer. I’m sure it’s not, but it’s nice. The amount of people drinking their breakfast (open bar) astounds me, and I’m grateful I’m not in danger of missing my flight because I’m plastered.
    I’m really giving myself permission to bumble and fumble around Japan. Allowing myself to go with the flow. Even if my plans change. Who cares, Im truly on a bucket list trip. And I never ever dreamed I’d get to see Coldplay in Tokyo. That has never been on any list, it just seemed too far fetched.
    So I’ll amble down to my gate, find a neck pillow and settle in for a looooong (13 hr) flight direct to Tokyo.
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  • Day 2

    1st night in tokyo

    November 5, 2023 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 68 °F

    The flight was great. I flew Japan Airlines in premium economy and it was very nice. Noise cancelling headphones, really good food, comfortable seats and a nice woman next to me made it rather enjoyable.
    The feed you about an hour after take off, then dim the lights for 6 hrs, turn up the lights to feed everyone a snack, then dim them for another 4. They feed you again 2 hrs before you land, and would pass out coffee and hot green tea.
    I had a few things to get after we landed and before I left the airport. All of that went smoothly. The Japanese have really made an effort to be helpful getting the foreign tourists what they need and on their way. The other thing I wanted to do, was get my 2 Coldplay tickets before I left. See, you have a voucher and you turn it in to any 7-11, and they print out the tickets. It’s on of the things I e been most nervous about doing. (What if they didn’t understand me? What if it was this whole long process that I didn’t understand and I held up the line, and people started rolling there eyes, and the clearly were mean to me? )
    So my thought was, a 7-11 at the International arrival terminal would be the best chance be able to communicate clearly. I found the 7-11, have the vouchers up on my phone ( My phone will automatically translate Japanese into English for me so I had to keep switching it back, lol) showed to to the girl, she nodded, scanned them and gave me my tickets!!!! I was so excited, I literally hopped up and down clapping my hands together quietly with this HUGE smile on my face. She laughed and I was on my way.
    I told Mom before I left, the only thing I really wanted to go well on this trip was getting these tickets and seeing these shows. If it all fell apart I could just ride the trains around the country. And having to get the tickets once I got here, was super uncharted territory.
    Now I have my pocket WiFi, my train pass, my Coldplay tickets , and my SUICA card ( a card you put money on to ride subways trains buses, use at vending machines and some convenience stores). So I was ready to get into Tokyo. I packed more on this trip than usual. I have 2 24 inch and 1 18 inch suitcases with me. They are about 1/2 packed each so I have room for things I find here.
    I will be in heat in Taiwan and super cold in Way Northern Japan and wanted to take what I wanted to. Also, they have luggage shipping around country. Instead of lugging all your shit onto the train, you ship it from city to city as you travel. So I figure I can ship the 2 bigger bags and carry the 18’ around with me and repack as my needs change. People say it’s easy, reliable and very affordable. So we will see how all of that goes. But in the mean time, I had to get 3 suitcases to my hotel. I had looked up all the options and figured I could decide when I got in. I decided on a train line that was a straight shot, rapid express to my hotel’s neighborhood then a 5 minute walk. Pretty straightforward and my courage was way up because I had just gotten those tickets.
    So I look to see what train I need and it pulls up, I check the sign on the train, it says in English the line I need so I hop on and go.
    Just as I’m getting on the train, a man stops me and asks “Wait, where is it you are going?” I tell him the Ginza neighborhood and he looks at the same train sign I did and says”Ok yes good. “. So I figure I’m (literally) on the right track.
    I’m so glad of my experiences in NYC. Holding on to the strap while managing 3 roller suitcases is not for sissies. As we go, I’m noticing we stop a lot ( more like a local train) and I’m not recognizing any of the stops ahead of us. Have faith, trust the process, I tell myself. I get a seat, and able to hold onto to the suitcases easier and I pull out my phone. (This is why you HAVE to get your phone data/WIFI situation handled before you leave the airport, if you aren’t being picked up by a car)
    So I’m checking the map and we are going in the opposite direction of Tokyo. 🤦‍♀️
    I’m like ok, don’t panic, get off and go back the other way. We are in Japan, not Miami, this is a good place to blunder.
    I get off at the next station. I find a station worker/security guy and ask him “Tokyo?” He points to the other side of the tracks heading north. So I start over there. But there are stairs. Which is why I liked the straight shot train idea to my hotel neighborhood, no stairs. So I schlep 2 suitcase down the stairs and go back for the other one. As I’m about to go up the stairs on the other side, another train police man offered to help me. He takes one bag and I take the other 2. “Adventures in Japan, Caroline, You are getting your Adventure in Japan” I mutter as I’m going up the stairs.
    So once on the proper platform, I can check Google maps and see where I am and how to get where I need to go. Google maps is exceptional in Japan with train schedules and every thing is very punctual.
    So I see I’m on the right track line, I just went the wrong way. And literally in 5 minutes the limited express train is coming. And it did. And I got on. Going the right way. Phew!!
    It took longer than 5 minutes to find my hotel, but I found in 10, and I have the tiniest room I’ve ever seen and it is perfect. The bathroom is nice and it is exactly what I need.
    This morning , I’m going down to breakfast. I’m going to have an easy morning , check out the neighborhood and rest up for the 1st show tonight. I’m so excited. I can’t believe I’m going to be seeing them tonight. And tomorrow!!
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  • Day 3

    Coldplay night 1 Monday

    November 6, 2023 in Japan ⋅ 🌬 72 °F

    I went down to breakfast at my hotel this morning. It was a Japanese breakfast, with fish, veggies, rice, miso soup, and several other things. They have a plate with 9 small little sections. So you can have a little of everything. I didn’t take my camera down this morning , but I will tomorrow. The dining room was very quiet , and it seemed to be mostly Japanese with a few Westerners sprinkled in.
    After breakfast, I went back to my room and went back to sleep. I pulled the blackout shades closed and did not set an alarm. I told myself I could sleep as long as I needed. It was wonderful. I woke up at about 2 pm and felt rested.
    I hung around the room until 5:30 when it was time to go to the Tokyo Dome.
    The train stations can be very confusing. I’m glad I watched a few YouTube videos on it. Google maps really helps, you just have to take your time.
    One YouTube family said”Don’t try and remember the names of the stops. Each stop on each line has a number use the number system.” So the M line that goes north and south has stops 1-25. And the signs in the station that point you in the right direction use that system too. I am finding it’s a much easier way. Also, with pocket WiFi you can use Google maps underground, thank goodness.
    And I am amazed at how clean and safe there subway systems are. I mean clean! And I must have walked for 20 minutes through the underground corridors last night. Not once was I afraid. I reminded myself to not get complacent and stay aware, but never once was I afraid to walk a long stretch of corridor with only a few people.
    I got to the Tokyo Dome easily. I had noticed that I wasn’t really nervous heading to the venue. And normally I am. Maybe it’s because from all the work I’ve done getting these tickets, I had really just allowed myself to enjoy the moment. And after taking the right train the wrong way, I was very keen on checking for the correct platform #.
    I got there 1/2 way through the opening band, a very popular Japanese band called YAOSOBI. I had actually listened to them before I left, so I got to enjoy their last few songs. I had no clue how to read my ticket or where my seat was. But they had so many guides there. It took me about 20 minutes to figure out where I was to be, but it was perfect. I found my seat after YAOSOBI finished. I was sitting between 2 brothers and their Dad, and 2 Korean girls.
    I had never wanted to go to a concert alone until now. I loved the band more than I cared what people may or may not think. And people really aren’t paying attention to me. They are so concerned with themselves. It’s very freeing.
    So Coldplay started and they were fantastic. Chris Martin was very aware that he was speaking English and the crowd may not understand what he was saying. He did speak a little Japanese he said he had been learning and the crowd loved it.
    I got to sing along to all the songs And it was neat being with such a different audience. I did see some Westerners there. There was actually a huge variety of people there. It was really something.
    Getting home wasn’t bad. I followed the crowd to a metro station further away from the venue and took a train or 2 to get back to my neighborhood. All of the Japanese business-people were running to catch the last trains out of Tokyo and there were Coldplay fans (in their tour shirts) everywhere.
    I stopped off at the convenience store I went to last night and got cold noodles for a late supper.
    All in all it was a great night. At one point before the show started; I really soaked in the fact that I was sitting in my seat at the 1st night in Tokyo. I was there. I had done it. And I get to do it all over again tomorrow night.
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  • Day 4

    Coldplay night 2 Tuesday

    November 7, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Breakfast has turned into a lovely Zen moment for the last 2 days. Miso soup, veggies, small bowls of braised pork belly, something they are calling Spinach dip, but it’s amazing dark green with stalks, seaweed, salad, rice with eel and clams (I like eel, clams, not so much). And again , as I was admiring the portioned plate, I realized I had again forgotten my phone to take a picture. Maybe that’s the universe keeping it for just me.
    I have spoken very little on this trip so far. That’s easy when you can’t say more than a few words in the local language. It’s nice, I told my coworkers it was what I was looking forward to on this trip. Not having to talk unless I wanted to. That’s why I love this medium, I get to journal but get to be quiet at the same time.
    I’m going to repack today, as my big bags need to be downstairs by 11 am for Yamato transport to come and pick them up and ship them to my hotel in Osaka. I’ll be leaving tomorrow and taking my 1st Shinkansen (bullet train). You can buy a bento box to take with you and eat on the train. I’m excited about that too. I have to reserve the seat on the train, so I will go to a train station and do that today too.
    So funny story. I brought a couple of T-shirts I purchased on line. One of them said that it says “ColdPlay” in Japanese. I was going to wear it last night , but I wanted to make sure that it REALLY said Coldplay. I’d be horrified if I wore it and it said something in gibberish. So I tried to use google translate by taking a picture of it. And it didn’t compute. So then I looked up what Coldplay translated looked like, and it didn’t exactly match my shirt. So heck no, I’m not wearing it.
    It’s been about 80 degrees here in the day. I’m also checking the weather for Taiwan and it’s hot and humid there. I bought a fan that goes around your neck to wear to the concerts. I have General admission floor tickets for both nights there. So I can move around, go pee, get something to drink. Assigned seats are ok, but last night, I felt that once you are there you don’t go anywhere. And I always seem to get a bit of vertigo in that kind of seating. Once could pitch forward pretty easily it seems.
    Another hurdle for me today. I have to ship my luggage using the Japanese tried and true way instead of lugging it around with me. So I packed both suitcases up and took them down and the hotel staff were very kind and filled it out for me. As I was waiting, I was watching them. Watching them deal with their guests. All different ages, nationalities and levels of neediness. I’ve been watching all of the people I’ve come across who are dealing with the public. It’s been a good introspective excercise.
    When I took down the suitcases, I also took the shirt I had questioned the translation. I asked one woman if she could translate it for me. She said it wasn’t bad, she just didn’t understand it. “What is a Radio Head?” Lol, I had gotten a shirt that said Radiohead (great band btw) in Japanese. Because that’s pretty cool. So I was glad that I worked up the courage to ask.
    I had lunch in a small little restaurant. Once they brought it, I realized it was way too much food, but I was proud for doing it, and doing it scared.
    The trip over to the Tokyo dome was easy and I got looking for my seat way earlier then last night. I had MUCH better seats, certainly not by choice, as I picked one that was a good price and didn’t worry about where they were.
    I got to caught the entire set of the opening act, they were really good, and the crowd loved them.
    This 2nd night of Coldplay was a much better show than last night. I left there last night feeling underwhelmed, and just couldn’t shake the feeling that they seemed off.
    And boy, tonight certainly made up for it. They played a better set list, the crowd seemed more relaxed and responsive, and the people around me stood up the whole time. All in all making it a really good show.
    So tomorrow I take off for Osaka. I have a 1pm train. And I’m really excited.
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  • Day 5

    On to Osaka Wednesday

    November 8, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    So I remembered my phone to take a picture of my breakfast. Breakfast was livelier this morning. There were more foreigners, more Westerners. And it was louder. It’s interesting to see what they eat from the Japanese breakfast spread. They do have some toast, cornflakes and yogurt; and may eat that with fruit.
    A friend asked me before I left if I was an adventurous eater, and I said No. But I guess if you put me on a graph, I would definitely be in the Adventurous category.
    This head cold is still kicking my ass. I wake up in the mornings feeling yucky. But a good breakfast, miso soup, a hot shower and cold meds get me going. I have a giant unopened bag of throat lozenges, that I threw in my bag at the very last minute before I left. I had opened it to put some in a baggie and just took the whole thing. Thank goodness. Especially hooting, hollering and singing these last 2 nights with 75 thousand people.
    So I checked out of the hotel, and made my way to Tokyo Station where I’m catching the Hikari 513 on the Tokaido Shinkansen.
    I have never seen anything like Tokyo station. Grand Central is definitely up there, but then multiple it by 100. Between the commuters, and train is the primary way of travel here, and Tokyo Station is the Granddaddy hub in the country. WOW.
    I have my JR Rail pass, which allows me to travel for 14 days. But I upgraded to the Green car and so you have to make seat reservations separately, and that is a separate ticket. So you have 2 tickets every time you board. Your base ticket/JR pass and your reserved seat ticket. I had made this reservation yesterday afternoon. There was a long line at the vending machine where you do this, and thankfully a young man ( in his 20’s) walking everyone through it. So he starts doing for me really fast, and I wanted to learn how to do it, as I had more reservations to make. So I told him, “Wait, show me how you did that!” I was definitely feeling the age gap.
    So today, I left nice and early so I could make the rest of my train reservations and get my bento box for the journey. After you cross into the JR Shinkansen side of the train station ( where it gets super nutty, b/c now you are throwing everyone with their luggage in the mix) They have these amazing stores that sell all different packaged bento box lunches to take on the train with you. And every region has local specialties at their Jr station. It’s so cool!!
    So the most popular bento box store is called Ekibenya and I swear (this is for you Uncle Al) it reminded me of Zabar’s in NYC on a Friday evening. But imagine all the old ladies have their luggage. So I picked out one that had a seasonal autumn menu.
    So now I’m standing at the track waiting for it to arrive. Manda, there is a guy here with his wife who reminds me of Steve Bunch. He is taking the good arrival videos of the incoming trains. I need to copy him. And I managed to get a decent video of my Shinkansen as it arrived. I’ll upload it here.
    So let me back track a little bit. So I got to the station early today so I could reserve my seat on the rest of my train trips. Ask I said earlier, I watched the kid do it, so I had a pretty good idea. There were lots of people in line, but I took my time once it was my turn ( there are ticket vending machines all along the wall so the line moves fast) and made such I got when and where I wanted to go.
    The only one was an upgrade on the last stretch, on the last day before I head home, a really fast train, that takes about 5 hrs. Well, you can upgrade to Gran class, and I wanted to do it. A nice way to end the trip. But I wasn’t able to do it through the vending machine ( b/c you have to pay an up charge) so I had to go to the JR office. I stood in line, and when it was my turn, explained to the nice man ( who did speak some English) that I wanted to reserve a seat on this train in Gran class. He said, “Well, that’s extra”. I said I understood. So he gets out his price list and a calculator does some math, does some more and then says”No, that’s too much”. And puts it all away and kinda just looks at me. So said, Yes, I know. That’s fine”. So we look at each other for about 2 beats and he gets out his stuff again, does the math and shows me the calculator with a flourish. I’m ready with my exchange app (but have already decided to do it. I budgeted for it) I look at what it would be and say ” YES. That’s fine. “
    So he finished the transaction and I leave. In the way out I’m thinking. “Did he really say, No, that’s too much” ?! As if he gets to have an opinion whether or not I do this? lol, I had a good laugh. Not what I was expecting from the JR guy, but it takes all kinds.
    Anyway, so I boarded the Shinkansen and it’s really nice. Like comfy seats , no one sitting next to me, quiet, and this thing is fast! But It feels like you a literally flying. And so smooth. It is well staffed, attendants and security. I ate my bento and set my alarm for 20 minutes for a cat nap. It was neat watching the landscape change and what takes a bus overnight, we were there in 3 hrs.
    I got off at Shin-Osaka ( a JR hub outside of Osaka) Wow! All the stores and food and gifts! I did something really smart , I think. I bought another bento box before I left the JR Shinkansen section of the station. I knew when I got to my hotel I’d be too tired to go anywhere.
    So with dinner in hand, I made my way onto a local train to take me into Osaka. As I stepped on the train, this very nice Japanese woman started chatting with me. It kinds threw me, b/c Japanese are not chatty with strangers, especially in English. Turns out she is an English teacher at the University. She 1st asked me if I was from France. I loved that. It at least makes me hope that looking at me doesn’t scream American. I saw a lot of that from the tourists today. It was cool talking to her.
    So I got to my room, ate my bento box, and it’s super early, but I’m heading to bed. ❤️
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  • Day 6

    Osaka

    November 9, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    It seems that the head cold I still carry with me is a global one. I’m hearing lots of sniffling and coughing here in Japan as well. I brought masks with me, assuming everyone would be wearing them. The business men are. They can’t afford to get sick. I was surprised , at the concerts there were very few people wearing them. It’s nice to be in crowds of people again. But now we all have the same cold.
    I had breakfast downstairs this morning. And true to form, I forgot my phone to take a picture of the amazing food. It was even better than the last hotel. I have been waking up feeling rough, and put on t—shirt , pants and birks, try to not make my hair look to rumpled and shuffle downstairs to eat. Hot miso soup is doing wonders for my throat (especially 1st thing in the am) and the food is whole, healthy and nutritious. I discover last night that one of my pillows is a buckwheat pillow. It has a firm consistency yet you can adjust it to your liking. And they have nice thick fluffy duvets on the beds. No top sheet. The beds are firmer but my body is definitely liking it.
    I am really enjoying this alone time. I miss my Mom and all my animals at home, but I really feel like I’m getting recharged and am able to rest as well on this trip. Maybe the bad cold is a blessing. It is making me go to bed earlier and the 20 minute nap on the train yesterday was lovely.
    So generally, Foreign visitors take the Shinkansen from Tokyo to Kyoto. It’s the cultural capital and about 30 minutes from Osaka. But it’s really over touristed right now. So much so that I decided to bypass it and see Osaka. I am flying out of here tomorrow anyway. I wanted to see the Osaka castle and a museum of history near by. There is also a shopping/entertainment/food part of town called Dotonburi ; I wanted to check out and there was a Don Quixote store there too. Don Quixote is called the “Walmart of Japan”. Without the clothes. It’s supposed to be amazing and I wanted to check it out. I figured I’d start there, and work my way back to the castle.
    Now it’s November, but it has been 80 degrees every day since I got here. It does cool down at night. But I literally have been wearing t-shirts and the quick dry pants I brought for Taiwan. Somebody needs to let the Japanese people know you don’t dress for the weather you wish you had, you dress for the weather you are in. I’m seeing people in sweaters, tights, jackets, wool hats, puffy vests. I really noticed it today here in Osaka.
    I get it. Fall fashion is better. The stores are full of it. Japan seems very fashion conscious. Bit I’m from Fl, and I’m in a t shirt and light pants. They must be sweating their asses off. But they sure look good.
    So apparently this area is best visited at night. So during the day, It just looked kinda seedy. Streets lined with bars, nightclubs and restaurants may look mysterious and cool at night, but look sad and kinda stinky in the light of day..
    I found the Din Quixote and OMG. It was 6 floors and had everything. I really enjoyed taking my time and looking at everything.
    But this cold is kicking my ass. And I didn’t have any fluids with me and I was starting to feel worse for the wear. I knew I needed to eat and get some fluids in me. And hot liquids would be even better.
    So I finished up and started back up the street. I passed a place called Kura. It’s a conveyor belt sushi restaurant and it was on my list to do. I also knew I could get hot tea miso soup and a good meal. Which would help me to feel better.
    I saw this place on a YouTube video, and the guy walks you through how to do everything.
    I also have been using Google translate more and more. You just open the camera up on the app, and it translates what is on the screen. And Google Translate does very well in translating Japanese. So I was able to figure it out. That and I really wanted to sit down and eat.
    I have some pictures and a video showing that experience. It was delicious and I’m probably going to go back tomorrow before I go to the airport.
    After lunch, I felt better but was tired. I had also used Google Translate to get some Japanese cold medicine. I still have my own I brought, but wanted to get reinforcements. I got a couple of things, and funny enough, it is all eastern herbal medicine except the nasal spray. I made very sure I wasn’t buying a bunch of random meds then taking it all together.
    So I headed home. No interest in the castle or museum. And by the time I got home at 3pm I was done for the day. I stopped off at 7-11 and got an egg salad sandwich and a gigantic bottle of water. I’m going to pack tonight and watch a movie on my iPad. I’ve started watching Studio Ghibli movies (All on Netflix) and listening to the soundtracks while I’ve been here. I’m in the middle of watching Spirited Away. The music to this movie is enchanting and is amazing to listen to on the Shinkansen looking out the window as the scenery rolls by.
    I believe I have discovered a new happy place.
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  • Day 7

    Rainy Osaka/Travel day

    November 10, 2023 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 64 °F

    I got up early and went down to breakfast. I throw on t shirt and jeans and try to make my hair look less rumpled and head down. There are 10-12 Japanese businessmen a couple of foreign tourists and me. I have found when I travel in a country in which I do not speak the language, it makes for a quieter experience for my brain. I don’t absorb the conversations, or find myself listening. It’s very peaceful.
    A good front is finally coming through, and the temperature through the country will finally drop. (Of course, on the day I fly off to hot humid Taiwan) so it was pouring this morning. I had plans for round 2 of Don Quixote and more conveyor belt sushi. But I asked for a late check out of 2pm, and I found myself pulling the blackout shades closed and sleeping for another 3 hours. That’s the 2nd time I’ve done that this week and it really feels luxurious. It’s another reason I like to travel alone. If I was on a tour, I’d be dragged from place to place and all I’ve been wanting to do is a 1/2 day, then rest, and go to bed early.
    So I repacked. I am taking 1 of the 24’ suitcases with me to Taiwan. I repacked the other one with things I’m not needing at the moment and I packed the smaller 18’ suitcase with the items I’m going to take when I take the train up north. That way it will already be packed and I won’t have to do it after a long day of travel.
    So I shipped 1 big and 1 small suitcase via Yamato from my hotel to my next hotel up in Sapporo (northern Japan) when I come back from Taiwan on Monday , I fly into Tokyo, then fly up to Sapporo. It makes the best use of the time I have.
    Then I had the hotel hold my bag for an hour while I went to a drug store down the street searching for real cold medicine , in the rain. The rain was great, as I finally got to wear my ankle boots that I specifically bought for this trip and it has been to hot to wear them until today. A rainy fall day is my favorite kinda of day, especially in a new city.
    The hotel lent me a big clear umbrella to take with me. The clear umbrella is a very Japanese thing. I must say it is nice as you can see through them. I will have to google that.
    So I had googled best Japanese cold meds and was on the hunt for a couple specific ones. I found 2 , one with caffeine and 1 with out. But at the register, they show you this whole long thing ( they showed me the on in English) about how you can only buy 1 box and can’t buy more. So I got the one with caffeine. I figured I could get another box at the airport drugstore and I’d be set.
    The trip to the airport via train was pretty straightforward. I have gotten comfortable navigating the metro systems and the suitcase I had was bigger, but easy to manage.
    I stopped and got an egg salad sandwich at 7-11 before I started. I have learned with this evil head cold that I have to eat and drink plenty of fluids on a regular basis. If I don’t I go downhill fast. This cold is manageable, but I have to manage it.
    So I get to the airport. On the rapid train there, there were a lot of high school kids getting on and off. It was fun watching them. Humans are really all the same.
    So before I get in the plane, I have to get my pocket WiFi for Taiwan. So I roamed around a bit and found the convenience store (Lawson- like 7-11) and just like the Coldplay tickets, showed the clerk the voucher and he gave me the pocket WiFi.
    Next to the Lawson was a drugstore. In Japan, you have to go to a drugstore to find the OTC meds. They have tiers of them apparently. I had the one with caffeine, and I wanted to get some to take a night. I had an idea of what I wanted so I took it up to the register. This time, they asked me more questions. In English. What are your symptoms? Have you purchased this at another store? I told her my symptoms and that I had not purchased any of this same cold medicine anywhere else. Well. I had purchased cold meds, not this brand and this had different ingredients, and really ? It’s just cold meds and I don’t feel good.
    But I left outta there feeling not good. I had lied to them. And not only that, but I was getting ready to leave the country go to another one and then come back in a few days. That was a lot of customs. And Taiwan has different laws in regards to certain ingredients in cold meds. Then I thought, you are in a different country. Different laws. Things have been going so smoothly, I have been expecting a hiccup. But being detained in Japan over cold meds is no hiccup. And I could easily see it happening. Lol, my boss would kill me! We are short staffed enough!
    Then I thought I’d just put it in my checked luggage. Then all the Shows I’ve watched about people getting busted in the airport started running through my mind. Then I thought, on those shows, they have generally already been watching them before they get busted. Then I laughed to myself, if I’ve had to justify this, this far, you know the right thing to do. So I went over and threw away the cold meds without caffeine. One box according to Japan is fine. More than that, they are worried you are going to start a meth lab. Then as I was rearranging my bag, I realized I threw away the one with caffeine and kept the night time one. 🤦‍♀️ well, I’ll sleep good for the next few nights.
    So by this time, it was time to check in. I’m flying China Airlines and didn’t know anything about them. I did upgrade the flight to business class as it is a 3.5 hr flight and it does make a difference. So I get my ticket and she points me to the fast track lane of security and gives me a ticket to their business class lounge. I didn’t have any expectations for the lounge, and boy it was really nice! So China Airline’s lounge in Japan. The seats were nice, the lighting was low, the food was good, they had ginger ale ( which always makes me happy) and it was located just above the gate.
    So then I board, and it’s way nicer than I thought it would be. I guess because it’s International. So we just took off, no one is sitting next to me and they are going to feed us a nice dinner.
    It’s interesting
    making the change from Japanese to Taiwanese (all who speak Chinese). I’m starting to notice to differences in the languages. And now I’m on the plane, and I think I’m the only Westerner on board.
    I had another really good Japanese meal and then got to nap for the rest of the flight.
    I ordered my 2 Coldplay tickets on a very reputable site called StubHub. They sent me tomorrow night’s ticket to my house before I left. So I have that with me. Sunday night’s ticket was sent to my hotel here in Kaohsiung.
    I had planned it that was and it’s fine. So when I get to my hotel it should be waiting for me. Amex helped me touch base with the hotel’s concierge. So we will see. But at least I have tomorrow night’s in my possession. It has been a text of do the footwork and turn the results over.
    So another best piece of travel advice - if you can- get a car service to pick you up when you come in late to a new country. There was a man standing at arrivals with my name on a sign. Them Then the driver takes to the car and you bypass all the insanity that is the arrivals area late in a Friday night.
    I get to the hotel and it is a Taiwanese hotel, so it has a lot of Chinese influence. It’s big, ornate, big growling lion statues outside.
    And when I check in, I don’t even have to say anything. He hands me the package with my Coldplay ticket inside. All that worrying. For nothing.
    So I’m in my room now, I’m going to take a shower and go to bed.
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  • Day 8

    Kaohsiung

    November 11, 2023 in Taiwan ⋅ 🌙 79 °F

    Breakfast this morning was on a level I have never seen. This hotel has one of of the biggest and best buffets I’ve ever seen. Sections of Foods from The West, Taiwan, Japan, and China. I have seen more Westerners here this morning, lots of American Blue collar management/engineer “I travel to Asia for work” /“maybe shipping but I wear camo baseball hats, drink a lot and talk real loud”kinda guys.
    So after breakfast I came back up to the room and have napped all day in this glorious bed. I’ve wondered a few times if I should be doing more sightseeing, but I’m listening to my body. I’m going to the 1st night of Coldplay here in Kaohsiung (my 3rd concert for those is keeping track) and it is taking a lot out of me. I’m ok with this trip being what it is. I am doing everything I came here to do. I am also aware that I will need to hit the ground running when I go back to work and being able to rest is really what I need.
    The air quality here is very poor today. We will see how it is this evening.
    So I had gone down to the desk this morning to ask a couple of things. One was that I had noticed that I am on the executive floor. They had said something about upgrading my room. So I asked, If I am on the Executive floor, do I have Executive Lounge Access? Now I didn’t pay for it, they upgraded me. Either way I didn’t care but it never hurts to ask. So they gave it to me!
    So it really never hurts to ask.
    I finally got up around 3:30ish. I wanted to eat and shower and be on the way by 6:30. Google maps said it would take about an hour to get the the venue via walking/metro.
    So there is a HUGE dept store attached to this hotel, and they have a food court in the basement floor. I have learned that in parts of Asia the food courts on the basement level of dept are supposed to be really good. And I didn’t even have to leave the building.
    I found lunch, braised pork belly w/rice set. Had really nice fresh veggies with it and soup with a fish ball and pieces of mackerel. I have discovered I don’t mind mackerel, on this trip.
    So I went back upstairs, got ready and by the time I actually left the hotel it was almost 7 pm. One thing that has been a challenge is finding out what time the band goes on stage. They tell you when the doors open and when the opener goes on, but not when the actual band comes on. So the ticket said 7:30.
    In Japan, they went on at 7:15 ( the trains stop running at a certain time, hence the earlier time) So I figured I’d shoot for 7:30. Well already running behind. No worries, I’ll see all 4 shows I can be late. So I have to walk 15 minutes to the metro station. And the hard part with Google maps is starting out. It always turns me around. I have to bust out the compass when it says “Head West”.
    So I get to the metro station. And I know I need to get a ticket or ideally a 1-2 day pass to ride the train. And I’ve gotten comfortable with the ticket vending machines in Japan.
    But I’m just not finding what I need.
    Then, 2 girls appear, one speaking perfect English, asks if I needed some help. I tell her what I need and they walk me over to the 7-11 (right there in the station ) and she helps me get a metro card. And ends up speaking to the clerk for me. She was a HUGE help. So I got my metro card. I probably put too much money on it. But I didn’t know how much it would be, hadn’t done the exchange rate math , and definitely didn’t want to get stranded after the concert because I hadn’t put enough on the card.
    So I am on the way on the train, the Taiwan really know how to do a/c. It felt really good.
    I was worried about the smog alert today, but by this evening it didn’t seem very bad. Funny enough, my throat feels the best it’s felt all trip. I think it’s the humidity. My body responds better to it, lol.
    So I get off the train, and have to walk another 15 minutes. But I see a couple of people getting off too, and I KNOW they are going to the concert, so I kinda watch where they go.
    As I’m walking , I am reminding myself that it’s ok if you miss the 1st few songs. But I got there and they hadn’t even gone on yet!!
    So I run to the bathroom then make my way down to the floor. Now for these 2 shows I have general admission floor tickets. Which means you stand and there are no assigned seats, no seats at all.
    Well it was fantastic! I much prefer it that way. You can stand in the back or along the sides in little empty pockets. So you can sing , spin, dance, bob up and down and have some space!! I moved around too, seeing where it was good for different songs.
    Khaosuing stadium is open air, and it was hot. But I knew it would be and prepared for that. I bought one of those neck fans. I wore it the whole time and it was the BEST thing I brought on this trip. I knew it would be.
    Heading home was interesting. About 1/2 the stadium crowd was taking the metro and there is ONE station that everyone has to get through. But the city did a wonderful job managing the crowds. There was a guy on a megaphone that was directing things in the metro station and making everyone laugh. Have no clue what he was saying, lol.
    What a cool experience. What I haven’t seen as far a sightseeing, I feel like I am making up for seeing these concerts in these 2 different countries. I like Taiwan. There are lots of people riding motorbikes. Lots of people eating noodles on small plastic stools. It’s the climate. It is conducive to spending more of life outside. Restaurants are small and tables and stools spill out onto the sidewalks. There is a rhythm that is nice.
    I look forward to seeing more of it tomorrow.
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  • Day 9

    Khaosiung Night # 4/Flight to Sapporo

    November 12, 2023, North Pacific Ocean ⋅ 🌬 41 °F

    The city’s hotels are all at capacity. The conference for mech-industrial engineering/shipping/(I heard someone at breakfast say) gun mounts/international something was making it tough to get hotels at the beginning of the year. The hotel managers are all running around smiling at the guests and nudging the employees. It was nice to eat as soon as they opened then get out of there.
    I was trying to figure out why there are more Westerners at the Taiwan shows. You can get tickets on StubHub. The Tokyo shows were through lottery and seem very daunting.
    My wicked cold is nearing the end of its visit with me and is packing up to go. It’s been about 10-12 days and it’s the 1st day I have woken up and not felt like shit. I’m really glad, b/c I’m flying out to the Northern most prefecture (like a State) and it is snowing and going to be really cold.
    Taiwan reminds me more of Thailand. (It’s probably the motorbikes. But it’s a 1st world country and is clean and ranked as one of the safest countries period. Also, I’m comparing it to Japan, which is such a culture independent of anything else in the Asian world.
    And, I just read that Taiwan was a colony of Japan, but was turned over to China after WW2. And something else I noticed last night. No stray kitties. They are cat crazy as a culture but I didn’t see any street kitties.
    Taiwan is supposed to be an excellent place for expats. Hmmmmm. Add another option to the “retire in Asia” list. The dollar seems to do well here too. That braised pork set I had for lunch yesterday was $6.00. And that was good nutritious whole food.
    The people here have been very nice too.
    So I have just come back from the 4th show. 4th show and have been reflecting on the whole process from beginning to end. Truly, I am just amazed that :
    a) I bought tickets for concerts in Taiwan when I was going to be in Japan; “making a long weekend out of it”. Then, thinking that applying for, and getting, tickets in Tokyo was such a long shot, but nothing ventured, nothing gained; and doing it anyway-then actually getting tickets for BOTH nights. 🤦‍♀️
    B) 1 ticket for Taiwan was mailed to my house and the other mailed to my hotel in Khaosiung, and I really didn’t think that I would end out actually getting those tickets in my hand. And I did.
    C) The thought that I would see Coldplay in Tokyo ( not to mention Taiwan) was so far away from my list of all things possible, I just don’t even know. I never even dreamed of something that good.
    D) And it really goes to show, if you don’t try you will never know.
    I did something a little different at this last show. First, I found a good spot, with room to dance and see the stage and just stayed there. Even with coffee and cold meds, I was tired last night. I knew what the last 2 songs were and I have never really liked either of them. So when the 2nd to the last song started I had made my way to the stairs to go up the side of the stadium and go out the way I came in. I could hear the last songs as I was leaving and they sounded great. By the time the concert ended, I was 1/2 way down the 1.3 km boulevard towards the metro station.
    The night before stood in a crowd halfway up the Blvd as we slowly made our way to the same metro station. It was fine and fun to watch the crowd, but I wasn’t interested in doing that again. I rounded the corner and headed up the metro station stairs with out stopping and was able to get on the 1st train that came in. It was really nice.
    So it is now Monday am about 8:10 am. I made the choice to get an early flight so I could make the most of this day. I went to bed at 1 am, got up at 4 am and was packed ready and waiting for my 5:30 car service to come pick me up. The hotel had been very kind and asked me if I needed a taxi and I had said no. Well, the car service never showed. At 5:38 I went in and asked the doorman for a taxi. There was one that was sitting right there in their driveway so they got me in and off I went. I messaged the car service and will email them when I’m not running around trying to catch flights.
    Had a bit of a snafu at the airport as well. I had gone thru security and was at passport control when a China Air rep came running up to me. They needed me to open my checked luggage as there was something in there they needed to verify/check/have me take out. I was like Sure. So turns out it was my neck fan. I thought they just needed to identify it. So I showed it to him, then put it back in the checked luggage.
    25 min later, I’m having coffee and rice/meat/veggies for a good Asian breakfast and they come up to me again. Luggage control needs me to open my luggage. I said, “Yes, it’s my neck fan. I showed it to him. “ This is where language and cultural barriers come into play. A rep from JFK would have said “You have to take that with you. “ But no one said that. And I didn’t ask. ( good lesson there) So we had to go back through security and I found myself in front of the same guy. So I asked, this needed to go with me, it cannot be checked? And he said correct.
    Funny enough I had to go back through security and passport control a total of 3 times. lol, thank goodness it wasn’t very busy. It seemed like there was something I was supposed to be learning, so I was making sure to go with the flow.
    So now we are taxi-ing down the tarmac getting ready to take off. I saw 2 private planes as I was boarding. I’m going to assume those belong to Coldplay and not a couple of Taiwanese business men. It’s more fun in my version.
    So I boarded and promptly feel asleep. I declined the beautiful meal they offered as I had eaten in the lounge. The last trip when I flew home from Bangkok, I should have declined that meal, it had been delicious but I overdid it and could only sip peppermint tea the whole way home.
    I’m landing in Tokyo soon, have to get my bag, go through immigration, transfer to a domestic terminal to fly up to Sapporo.
    They do immigration and customs with a QR code if you want. I did not know I could text and walk at the same time. I had to register for it and fill it out. It makes it way faster than standing in line with paper documents. I’m feeling very tech savvy. I got checked in, cold meds with caffeine, lunch and I’m about to get in the plane to Sapporo. I even remembered to pull my winter coat out of my suitcase before checking it in.
    So lunch had been eaten, Japanese daytime cold meds ( with caffeine ) have been taken, and a bottle of water and some chocolate have been consumed.
    Now you may remember I was freaking out about the whole cold medicine trafficking worry. Well, my thought is I’m just going to be in the country for this next week and it will all be taken by the end of the week.
    This has been the longest post ever. I’m in Sapporo, it’s lovely and cold. I can’t ship my luggage from her back to Tokyo and have it make it there by Thurs night. But I can ship it to Shin-Hakodate ( where I will be staying Wed night.) But now I’m going to have all my fucking luggage with me on the last leg. So I am trying to find out about oversized luggage seating because that’s what they do now. Which is fine, but. Well, this trip has gone so smoothly I was wondering where the hiccup would be. It’s all in how you react right?
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  • Day 11

    Cloudy drizzly snowy Sapporo

    November 14, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 36 °F

    Snow. I woke up to snow this morning. Well, not really snow. Kinda snow. It’s sticking, but it’s slushy, drizzly and, would be a pain in the ass to drive to work in. But I brought the right shoes and pants (super comfy fleece lined water resistant) and my coat. I bought the coat on the fly and it’s called a HH Belfast winter coat. Warm on the inside and raincoat-y on the outside. And as soon as I stepped outside this am, I knew it had all been worth it. Dragging around an extra suitcase with all this winter shit in it when it’s been 80 degrees in Tokyo this whole time.
    So my snafu from last night is that if I ship my luggage from Sapporo back to Tokyo today. They are afraid it won’t get there by Thurs evening. (I fly home Friday am). And I refuse to stress over the logistics of this trip. I went to 4 concerts in 2 foreign countries. Everything is figure-out-able. And I’m really working on”it’s not what happens in life, it’s your reaction”.
    So the issue is I have 2 big suitcases and one carryon). And due to the huge increase in foreign tourism post pandemic they have set tighter rules for luggage that can be brought on. I don’t think they would deny you passage, but it’s the whole courtesy to others, it’s really ingrained in the fabric of the culture.
    So I had reserved (for the last leg- 5 hr stretch back to Tokyo) the Gran class car on the Hokkaido Shinkansen. It’s one of those things you do once, it costed extra, and I thought it would be a nice way to end the trip. So generally, if you have extra baggage you reserve a seat in the last row and there is a place for your stuff. If you don’t reserve those seats, you can’t put your stuff there.
    So back when the young man showed me how to use the vending machine he had me scan the QR code on my JR pass. When I did it on my own, I never saw Gran class. So I had to go to the office. Well, I went to the office last night at the JR station ( across the street from my hotel) and the office was closed. So I found the JR pass vending machines and tried to see what I could find with a seat for oversized baggage. I found and exchange button. You put your reservation ticket in and you can change it. I did it. And was so excited. Then I realized I had done it for a week ahead. 🤦‍♀️And it won’t let you exchange it again.
    So I wanted to read a bit more about what seats had baggage access. Well, of course my WiFi had run out of juice and the station WiFi is shit. For such an advanced country , their public WiFi is terrible. (I think the govt spent all the $$ putting Toto attachments in every single restroom in the country, lol. )
    So I went and got some takeout and went back to the hotel. I needed to regroup and charge my WiFi and phone.
    I found a diagram about which seats to pick and took a screenshot of it. Then I got dressed again and went back across the street to the JR vending machines in the station. Well how cool, as I was walking it started to flurry. I laughed and thought” Well, it’s going to snow, and at least you are here. All part of the adventure!”
    So I knew I couldn’t change my original Gran class ticket. I knew I could get any “green car” seat ( as my pass was a Green car pass) so I started looking for the train I wanted, the different times, and the seat map. It wasn’t busy, there were no tourists, it was around 9 pm and I had nothing but time. I figured I could just get a refund on the gran class and take the green car (on the same train maybe different time) at no additional cost.
    So I started hitting different buttons and seeing what I could find under them. And I went under a different button than I ever had and did NOT scan my QR code for my JR pass; and up came my Shinkansen, all the times and this time I could see what they had for availability under green car and Gran car.
    So I looked and looked and looked. I was also thinking about having to navigate Tokyo station with all that luggage. So I found a very empty ( so far ) Gran class car , train leaves at like 4pm and gets in at 9. And I got a seat in the last row. And I paid the up charge again. And I got the damn ticket that I wanted and needed for my extra luggage. Now I don’t know if gran class has extra baggage space in the last row like Green and Ordinary”class” does. But I picked the least occupied time of the day, and picked the last seat. Any conductor will see that I made the best attempt to handle my extra luggage the way the Shinkansen rules ask you too. That’s all I can do.
    And when I get to Wakkanai today, I can ask about a refund on the original Gran Class ticket. Worst case, I pay for it 2x. The dollar has gotten stronger since I got here, I was able to buy a bunch of stuff tax free (it’s a thing they do for foreigners, purchase a certain amount. Don’t consume it there, take it out of the country you don’t pay taxes on the items. ) so if I have to give extra to help the Japan economy post pandemic, so be it.
    So then I was able to go back to my room and crash.
    This morning I was showered, breakfasted, caffeinated, cold-medicined, packed (I brought less in my little carry-on than I thought I would, I was very proud) and out the door into the snowy morning at 6:30 am. These stations remind me very much of Grand Central. The scurrying to catch the train is very universal. And these trains that fan in and out of the big cities are very much like the commuter trains, I always think of the Metro North heading out of NYC.
    I stoped and got a bento box for the ride up, Coffee that is in a bottle, looks cold but is hot ( love that idea) green tea and a couple of bottles of water. This cold has joined up with me again since I’ve come back to lower humidity but its days are numbered I can tell.
    Tokyo might be packed, but this area in the north is very sparsely populated. I can’t believe how much snow I’m seeing. And I have seen literally about 20 big deer (male and female) and 1 very large eagle way up in tree. Not the deer, just the eagle, lol.
    As we get closer to Wakkanai the wind starts to pick up and it really starts to snow hard. We arrive and the snow is really coming down hard. I see the JR office and am able to get my original Gran class ticket refunded. I have been using a lot of translation apps these last 2 days. And it really helps. People have been very kind and patient. I’ve also been a good customer. Friendly patient and in no hurry.
    After that is taken care of , I go check out the JR station gift shop that has a couple of small places to get food. Hokkaido is known for its milk. And all things dairy here, especially the ice cream. So I sat and had one before I left the safety and warmth of the station to tackle the unplowed sidewalks and parking lots on Wakkanai. I’m such a Florida girl. The sidewalks were buried and I sure as hell wasn’t walking in the streets. The coat, pants, shoes, and wool socks were perfect!! I’m so glad I dragged that stuff. There is no way I could have walked through that snow in any other kind of shoe. They would have soaked and ruined. Just like wearing jeans in the snow. I say a guy in jeans walking through the snow. They will be soaked and take forever to dry.
    I checked into my hotel. It’s very nice, but not a lot of people , especially this time of year. lol, it kinda reminded me of the hotel in “the shining.” That movie really ruined a lot of us.
    So I put my stuff down and went back out in the weather. I also wanted to get dinner for tonight and stuff for the train ride tomorrow. It’s going to be a 9 hr journey and no time in between long enough to get food. So I did. Then I walked around town a bit. Some sidewalks.were not clear, just 1 or 2 people’s footprints. I really just enjoyed being in the moment, Slogging through shin deep snow, no one else around, kinda talking to myself about the “what are we doing here?” Then explaining to myself what we were doing here. It gets dark about 4: 15 pm so I had an early dinner and am hitting the hay in a few minutes. I’m really glad I made this journey up here. My room is nice clean and cosy. And I’m
    To be up tomorrow by 5 ish. I have a long travel day, my train leaves here tomorrow at 6:30 am and I’d like to be at the station around 6.
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