Croatia
Stari Grad

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20 travelers at this place

  • Day24

    Day 24 - Zoom Lolly Lilo

    August 27 in Croatia ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    Slept well & neither of us could get out of bed until gone 8.00am.

    Jackie made me scrambled eggs on toast & coffee for breakfast, then we headed back to our beach not too much after nine.

    We plonked ourselves down in our usual spot & started huffing & puffing into our newly acquired lilo. We had a laugh at a couple who moved three times in about half an hour because people sat too close to them, then gave up & left the beach. In fact the wife did while the husband was still swimming.

    Unfortunately the joke was soon on us, when 4 ugly blokes & a girl sat too close directly behind us. They were oblivious to my Paddington hard stares & in the end we reluctantly relocated to the other end of the beach that was unusually quiet.

    In our new spot, Jackie launched Zoom Lolly Lilo & stayed on it for most of the day as the photos will testify. Lunch was half a bladder of white wine & some peanuts. We left the beach at 4.45pm as it was just starting to get busy again, inexplicably with Brits.

    That evening we dressed up & hit the town. After a beer in our favourite bar, we returned to Pizzeria Marco, where Jackie had a large bowl of mussels & whelks in white wine & a side of French fries. I had gnocchi ai quattro formaggi. It was a perfect evening.

    On the way home we stopped at a tiny little shop that sold only homemade wine in old recycled water bottles. We bought a bottle for tomorrow night.

    Song of the Day : Zoom by Fat Larry’s Band.
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  • Day22

    Day 22 - The Perfect Beach.......Nearly!

    August 25 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    The best night sleep of the trip so far. We enjoyed the benefits of air conditioning. I got up at 7.00am & Jackie an hour later. The view from the balcony was glorious.

    We had a leisurely start to the day with 4 cups of coffee & piles of toast with Rose Hip jam. Way up the road we can see 3 different coloured bins that people diligently sort their recycling into, which is admirable. Later during the morning we saw the dustbin men come along & empty all 3 bins into the same truck. What a waste of time!

    It was nearly 10.00am, when we drove the 6 miles to the parking area above Dubovica Beach. We were planning to cycle it in future, but it was a tortuous climb up to a narrow tunnel through the mountains that was over a mile long, which scuppered that idea. It was too dangerous to justify the exercise.

    After parking the car free of charge, we walked down the stony steep goat path to the beach. And what a beach. It is a pebbly beach in a gem of a cove with a crystal clear sea. Behind the beach were several picturesque ancient buildings including the small church of St. Stephen from the 17th century.

    We found our spot next to an old fishing boat & agreed that it was perfect. Apparently it gets extremely busy in the summer, but thanks to Covid it remained relatively quiet & virtually kid free.

    At lunch we found it’s one minor downside. The beach bar had run out of beer, so we chose a glass of white wine each, followed by a gin & tonic, unsurprisingly all at premium prices. Tomorrow we will be bring our own in a cooler bag.

    At 5.00pm, we trekked back up the goat path to our car, already knowing that we will be spending every day of the coming week on this beach.

    It seems not everyone was so enamoured with the beach. Below is a TripAdvisor post from Vaughan in Canada which made me laugh:-

    “This is NOT a beach worth visiting
    It must be bots posting favourable reviews. The hike to the beach is very long, on a narrow, rocky path. Remember to wear hiking shoes- flip flops just won’t do. Good luck to you when trying to pass some poor sod trekking his way back, wondering how the heck he got suckered into visiting this place. Best of luck to you if you forget anything in your car and you have to head back up to fetch it - such as your insect repellent, which you will be crying for if you do. The hike back to the main road is worse - especially after spending a day on this very small, very rocky beach, carrying all your beach supplies. Save yourself the trouble and skip this joke of a beach”.

    On the way home we stopped at Tommy’s Hipermarket & bought 2 steaks that weighed just under a kilogram for about £7. How do the restaurants justify their exorbitant prices? We also bought salad, dressings, eggs, milk, 3 litres of beer, 3 litres of wine & I picked up shower gel & a bath mat! Total price for everything £30. Perfect.

    Back at our apartment, we had a couple of beers & a shower before heading into town. We stopped in the bar opposite last nights & took in the ambience. The harbour had the perfect vibe.

    We then sought out Pizzeria Marco down a back street that had also been recommended by Adrienn. Again, it was that P word again. It was laidback unlike the bow tie wearing waiter service at Kod Barba Luke. We shared a litre of ‘domestic’ white wine & a pepperoni & chilli pizza, which we smothered in chilli oil. I fear it could have repercussions in the morning!

    Our best day of the trip by far.

    Song of the Day : Perfect Day by Lou Reed.
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  • Day23

    Day 23 - Steak Night

    August 26 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    After a coffee & watch the Parisian lady drive off without hitting our car, I went for a half hour run around Stari Grad waterfront. I was kicking myself that I didn’t take my camera because the harbour looked so beautiful. It was also incredible to see so many old people having an early morning swim along the shoreline.

    Upon my return, I showered then Jackie made us a gorgeous croque monsieur each. We then packed up our beach kit, now including a cooler bag with half a bladder of white wine. We were just about to leave, when last nights fear of repercussions came violently true!

    10 minutes later than scheduled, we drove to Dubovica Beach car park & walked down the goat path to our idyllic spot. My stomach was still gurgling, so I checked out the toilet at the bar, only to discover that they wanted payment of 5 kuna (about 65 pence) for the privilege. Bloody cheek.

    We sat in the sun the whole day & had our lunch of cool white wine & bacon crisps. We did play bat and ball - embarrassingly badly. Sometime after 5.00pm, we headed home.

    Arriving back at our apartment, Jackie was feeling ‘exhausted’ so went for a lie down, whilst I walked down to the harbour to buy a lilo. I found a lilo at what I thought was a bargain price & bought it along with another box of wine & a tomato.

    Walking back I was feeling all pleased with myself, until I realised that the lilo had cost 6 times more than I had originally thought. Idiot.

    Jackie later fried our massive steaks & served them up with Dijon mustard, a balsamic & olive oil dressing and salad. The meat was very tasty, but a bit on the chewy side. Apparently Jackie couldn’t get the electric ring hot enough to flash fry them!

    The evening was completed with an old online quiz hosted by the very annoying Jay.

    Song of the Day - Waterfront by Simple Minds.
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  • Day26

    Day 26 - Weather Forecast - Windy

    August 29 in Croatia ⋅ 🌙 28 °C

    Struggling to get up these mornings. The forecast on the weather app on the iPhone just said ‘windy’ for the whole day. What did that actually mean? Apart from the obvious.

    After breakfast we decided to chance it & go back to our beach, fully prepared to abandon it if the wind was unbearable. We weren’t early, but there were only two cars in the car park. Other people must have read the same weather forecast or had local knowledge.

    Being high up, the wind was battering us so Zoom Lolly Lilo was banished to the boot. We then fought our way down the goat path to the bottom & WOW the beach was absolutely empty. I imagine this was a rarity mid morning on a sunny day in the summer. It was even better, because the cove shielded most of the wind.

    It was less than 10 minutes before other sunbathers started descending on the beach, but it remained pretty quiet all day. Occasionally we had a gust of wind that caused havoc with any umbrella or inflatable that had misguidedly been brought to the beach.

    One umbrella shot up in the air about 20 feet & landed on another family’s towels. Luckily only Dad was sat there & he gave them a rollicking. I rescued a foam mat & an inflatable swan.

    The highlight of the day was laughing at another chap who spent most of his day trying to put up an umbrella for his girlfriend’s dog, then his inflatable blew out to sea, he swam after it only for the the inflatable to blow back to shore with him now 30 yards out to sea. He was not a happy chappie!

    Lunch was cheese & ham sandwiches & white wine. Unfortunately I had been left in charge of packing the wine & I forgot the glasses. We had to resort to using our water bottle as our wine glass. It didn’t look good!

    During the afternoon, the naked gardener who lived in the big stone house at the water’s edge started playing Bob Dylan tracks that drifted out across the beach. On previous days we have had classical music, piano concertos & jazz.

    We left the beach after 6pm because the cooling breeze had made it comfortable for Jackie to stay in the sun all day without any shade.

    Back home we struggled to motivate ourselves to get ready to go out, but we did. We strolled around the pretty back streets, but ultimately gravitated back to Pizzeria Marco. We shared a very decent lasagna, chips & salad.

    On the way home we purchased some more homemade wine for a wine nightcap with our whole nut chocolate.

    Song of the Day : Blowin’ in the Wind by Bob Dylan.
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  • Day27

    Day 27 - Do as the Locals Do

    August 30 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    The morning started with more ant trouble. Jackie started eating her honey loops & after a couple of mouthfuls felt her arm was itchy. She looked down to see several ants running around on it. She then looked in her cereal bowl to see more ants swimming for their lives. She inspected the cereal packet & it was crawling with the damn things.

    I decided to have toast.

    Our apartments other guests are mainly middle aged lesbians, which is great. What is not great is that one couple have worn the same clothes all week. Photo attached.

    It was forecast to be another windy day, so as planned we set out in the car to explore the island. Our first stop was Jelsa, another town apparently similar to Stari Grad, but we will never know what it was like because there were barriers up to the town centre & we were expected to pay to park up. We chose not to.

    We popped to the harbour port of Vrboska, where there were lots of sailing boats, but not many sailors.

    We then headed for Hvar town, where we discovered that the car parks wanted £10 to park for the day. I was keen to see one of the oldest theatres in Europe, but not at that price!

    Instead we tried to drive down to the waterfront, but ended up in such a tight squeeze that we had to blindly reverse for about 50 metres, then drive up a one way street the wrong way to escape.

    Having learnt our lesson, we then cruised around the top road above Hvar Town where we got decent viewpoints of the town below & the Spanish fortress above.

    On the way home, we located the village of Milna. We parked up in a free car park & took a stroll. It was a tiny seafront village full of inviting restaurants, but just too early in the day for us.

    We returned home around midday & walked past Lantern Beach to the port then around the harbour inlet for several miles. We passed the small 13th century harbour church of St. Jerome. We read that the hermitage opposite became a hospice in the 17th century & was later used as a quarantine hospital for passengers from ships suspected of carrying contagious diseases. How appropriate!

    We stopped on the way back for an overpriced beer.

    Later that afternoon, we packed our bags & loaded what we could into the car. I finished before Jackie & now a hot sweaty mess, decided to do what the locals do & go for a swim. I donned a pair of shorts & walked down to the ‘beach’, then climbed down into the sea for a cooling float.

    I returned home in time to watch the T20 cricket & England beat Pakistan with a record breaking run chase.

    That evening we went back to Pizzeria Marco (again) & ordered the Marco special pizza (basically a bit of everything on top) with a salad & a litre of wine & sparkling water. We noticed that the cobblestoned pavement was all wet & learnt that the combination of a high tide & strong winds had blown the sea water up & all the restaurants had been ankle deep in water during the afternoon.

    When the bill came, the waiter said “From the owner, all the drinks were on the house”. What a lovely gesture & a great end to our stay in Stari Grad. Sadly Marco wasn’t there to thank in person.

    Song of the Day : The Tide Is High by Blondie.
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  • Day3

    Stari Grad auf Hvar

    July 20 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Heute kommt auch das Großsegel zum Einsatz. Die ersten Wenden unter voller Besegelung klappen auch gut. Wir segeln um die Westspitze von Hvar und machen eine Badepause unter Anker in der Bucht Pelegrim. Eigentlich wollten wir dann weiter zur Insel Vis. Diesen Plan verwerfen wir aber, weil der Wind stark nachlässt. Statt dessen segeln wir auf der Nordseite von Hvar in Richtung Osten und in die Bucht von Starigrad. Unterwegs sehen wir zwar keine Delfine, dafür aber springende Thunfische. Der Anleger in Starigrad ist dann bei starkem Seitenwind ziemlich anspruchsvoll, gelingt aber trotzdem auf Anhieb. Der Ort ist wunderschön. Wir lassen uns von spielenden Hunden und flanierenden Menschen unterhalten und essen dabei selbstgekochte Nudeln, denen Jörg den Namen Ratatouille gibt. Es wird dann noch ein schöner Abend mit altersgerechter Musik, Diskokugel und ein paar alkoholischen Getränken.Read more

  • Day5

    Neuer Ausflug, neues Glück -ab nach Hvar

    July 7, 2017 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Nach einer kurzen, sehr schwülen und wenig erholsamen Nacht klingelt der Wecker heute schon um 6:00 Uhr. Schnell ins Bad, ein kleines Frühstück im Stehen und ein Kaffee und dann sitzen wir 10 vor 7 im Auto. Heutiges Ziel: Mit dem Auto nach Split und von dort um 8:30 Uhr mit der Fähre auf die Insel Hvar. Mal schauen, ob das Ausflugsglück heute auf unserer Seite ist...

    Der Stau von unserer Insel runter aufs Festland hält sich in Grenzen und wir fahren vorsichtig optimistisch Richtung Split. 35 km ist der Hafen von unserem Domizil entfernt...ca 1 Stunde haben wir geplant. Bis ca. 8 km vor dem Ziel läuft es auch gut, aber dann: Stau! Von wegen die Südländer starten gemütlich in den Tag. Um 7:30 Uhr sind die Straßen voll und es geht nur seeehr langsam vorwärts. Der Pessimismus ist zurück und der dichte Stadtverkehr strapaziert meine Nerven. Aber tatsächlich: 08:07 parken wir auf dem erst besten (und dem wohl teuersten, wie wir heute Abend feststellen werden) Parkplatz am Hafen von Split ein. Im straffen Marsch geht's zum Ticketschalter. Zum Glück rückt hier die Schlange schnell vorwärts und wir schaffen es tatsächlich pünktlich zur Fähre. 8:20 Uhr: Erstmal Durchatmen!

    Die nächsten zwei Stunden verbringen wir im klimatisierten Innenbereich der etwas in die Jahre gekommenen Fähre - inklusive Unobattle (heute siege ich am laufenden Band - offenbar mein Glückstag).

    Pünktlich 10:30 Uhr erreichen wir den Hvarer Hafen von Stari Grad. Dort hat es uns dann wieder: Das kroatische Chaos. Keine Schilder, keine Hinweise wie nun weiter. Während wir nach der Bushaltestelle suchen, rauschen zwei volle Busse plötzlich an uns vorbei. Diese haben wir in dem Chaos vor der Autofähre schlicht übersehen. Spontan entscheiden wir uns für ein Taxi - der mürrische Fahrer sagt "120 Kuna" und fährt uns in das zwei Kilometer entfernte Zentrum von Stari Grad. Eine lohnende Fahrt für ihn, aber wir sind da! Der nächste Bus wäre erst in 2 Stunden gefahren. Später werden wir sehen, dass man die Strecke auch hätte laufen können, aber naja - shit happens. Auch der Reiseführer war dieses Mal keine Hilfe.

    Wir sind da und suchen gleich die Bushaltestelle für die Rückfahrt. Die ist schnell gefunden und kurz überlegen wir mit dem nächsten Bus in ca. 1 Stunde nach Hvar Stadt zu fahren, da wir dort dann aber nur ca. 2 Stunden Zeit hätten, verwerfen wir die Idee und bleiben in Stari Grad. Eine gute Entscheidung, wie ich im Nachhinein finde. Der Bus zurück zur Fähre fährt um kurz nach 16 Uhr uns so bleiben uns 5 Stunden - da lässt sich was draus machen.

    Wir entdecken kleine Gassen, tolle Plätze und nette Verkäufer alias Künstler. Endlich fühle ich es: Urlaubsfreude und Entdeckungslust. Trotz gut 35 Grad heute macht es Spaß durch die Straßen zu streifen, die ersten Souvenirs zu kaufen und ein altes Herrenhaus mitten in der Altstadt zu besichtigen. Der Dichter und Denker Petar Hektorovića hat sich Anfang des 16. Jhd. ein Schmuckstück errichtet und wir zollen der interessanten Architektur des Gartens Respekt.

    Gegen Mittag kehren wir in einem Naturcafé ein und genießen bei lockerer Bedienung frische Limonade, selbstgemachten Eistee, perfekten Kaffee und leckeren Salat mir gegrilltem Gemüse. Zum Abschluss noch eine Waffel und wir streifen satt und zufrieden zum Badeabschnitt der Stadt.

    Hier heißt es sehen und gesehen werden. Viele Hipster buhlen um Aufmerksamkeit und wir fühlen uns nicht ganz dazu passend. Aber egal für eine Abkühlung im Meer und ein kleines Sonnenbad reicht es.

    Schließlich brechen wir Richtung Bus auf und der fährt uns sehr rasant und wild hupend mit knapp 15 Min. Verspätung zurück zur Fähre. 17:30 Uhr legen wir ab - es hat alles geklappt, ein gutes Gefühl!
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  • Day14

    Simmertour nach Stari Grad

    June 27, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    Stari Grad ist die älteste Stadt von Hvar und eine der ältesten Städte Europas. Die geschichtsträchtige, vom Wald umgebene Stadt, liegt am Ende einer 7 Kilometer ins Land reichenden Bucht. Es hat uns hier, mit seinen kleinen, schatten spendenden Gassen sehr gut gefallen. Uberall in den Gassen kleine gemütliche Konobas und Geschäftchen.Read more

  • Day16

    Fähre Hvar-Split und Stopp in Trogir

    June 29, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    06.15 Uhr brechen wir auf vom CP Grebrice zum Fährhafen Stari Grad. 10.00 Uhr Ankunft in Split. (809,00 Kuna) . Parkplatzsuche in Split war leider erfolglos. Wir touren nach Trogir und machen dort Mittag. Schauen uns noch in Rogoznica(deutsche TB in Ražanj) und bei Primosten nach einem CP um. Erfolglos beschließen wir, am Nachmittag dann nach Murter zu reisen.Read more

You might also know this place by the following names:

Stari Grad, Стари град, ستاری گراد, סטארי גראד, Starigrad, スタリー・グラード, 스타리그라드, Civitas Vetus, Стари Град, Старий Град, 斯塔里格勒

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