• Debra Parnell
Apr – May 2024

Italy 2024

Starting in Vienna and then going all the way around Italy! Read more
  • Trip start
    April 24, 2024

    Melbourne

    April 23, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Melbourne -1 days and counting
    Dinner to get the holiday underway. A lovely Italian restaurant in Niddrie. And then to Holiday Inn at the airport for the night. Thanks Bevan and Magenta for driving us and setting us off in style!Read more

  • Shanghai

    April 24, 2024 in China ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Day 0 We're off but it's no holiday -yet
    An easy departure - just had to walk across the road to Terminal 2!
    Flight was good and even dozed. China Eastern was fine - food was fine, but not much in the way of movie, and we probably no alcohol did us good.
    Scenery was amazing flying over islands and ocean. Storm clouds spectacular.
    Arrived Shanghai around 8 pm local time (10 pm Melb time) .
    Airport is huge! But as transit travellers funnelled directly to international departure area. A few duty free places, but just one sad cafe. Still a beer and a coffee, were welcome! Need to check the restaurant on the VIP floor on our trip back.
    Departed at 12.30 am local time so sleep was the main aim.
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  • Vienna

    Apr 25–29, 2024 in Austria ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Day1 - Vienna the wait is over
    Arrived in Paris at 6 am local time ( now on Cental Europe Standard time -8 hrs behind Melb). A brief period of anxiety as we had to get boarding passes for this Air France leg. Complicated by the chaos caused by a strike impacting a number of flights.
    But this is an airport;! We had to fall into a French bakery for coffee and pastries with great relief!
    Flight to Vienna relatively short - 2 hrs. And painless.
    But it had to happen sooner or later and today was the day/trip - our bags didn't make it. Judith was happily re-united with her case, but Derek's and my bags were not coming through that hatch no matter how long we waited 😞. Luckily they are on their - who can blame them for wanting to stay in Paris longer? Hopefully we will see them tomorrow morning.
    Getting out of airport was alarmingly easy - throgh the door marked. A train into the city, a 10 min walk to apartment and home for the next 3 days!
    Despite exhaustion we couldn't resist going out for an explore. We aren't far from Karl's Kirche and the Uni district - familiar to us from last trip, so it was an easy walk into the centre. So many people here ahead of us - how did the word get out!
    Vienna lovely and graceful while it buzzes, and people queue for the cafes and little lane ways wait to surprise us around winding streets. A joy.
    But a quiet night in with wine and soup.
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  • Vienna 2

    April 26, 2024 in Austria ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Day 2 Tired but too much to see!
    Not sure when bags will be delivered so need to be close to apartment for comms re timing. So a lazy morning tho Derek went out early for a long walk. When he got back Judith and I had our turn. Headed off to Naschmarkt which is not far. Found a delightful Cafe on the way cafe Wortner - had to stop for coffee and cake! Market was great with lots of fresh fruit/vegetables, deli's, meat, fish and cafes of every type and country! Will have to go back to buy a few things!
    Quiet rest of the afternoon resting up for a
    busy evening.
    Went out about 6, and walked to the park near Karlsplatz for a small bite and a drink. Nice and mild to be out. Concert at AnneKirche - Mozart Chamber Quartet. Church and music were lovely. Finished just after 9, and we headed to Hotel Sacher for Supper. A great timecto go - no queue! (but as we were leaving crowds streaming out from Opera and elsewhere so timing was perfect!)
    Of course had to have the Sacher Torte - why else would you go there? (Tho I'm sure everything on the menu is fab) and lovely coffee with orange liqueur. A perfect way to finish the day!
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  • Vienna 3

    April 27, 2024 in Austria ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Day 3 Blue Danube
    Up early (nothing new about that with jet lag plaguing us all) to do Parkrun. Here in Vienna!
    Judith didn't feel like a long walk so just Derek and I ventured out. Luckily I had track pants and runners with me, so i could l do it even though my running gear still not here!
    Caught the train to the other side of Vienna and across the Danube. Parkrun is held in Donau Park which is lovely and big. Not a lot of people (122 in total) with quite a few English ex pats. Very friendly and welcoming. The route was lovely - flat and, unusually, 3 laps of the course. A beautiful morning. My time was ok - but a PB for Vienna- a record likely to hold for quite a while! We joined others going to a local cafe. Lovely sitting out on a deck and enjoyed talking to people about living in Vienna.
    Derek and I then caught the train to the bridge over the Danube and got off there to walk across. Amazing. There is a huge but narrow Island in the middle, effectively making 2 rivers. One side is called the new Danube and is very clean (no cruise boats) and even has beaches for swimming. It is actually quite blue. The other section not so clean, but still beautiful looking to distant hills/mountains. A number of cruise boats were lined up on the side of the river. Huge!
    Back at our apartment, finally got a call from the courier re our bags, but delivery not due till about 3. That didn't give us much opportunity to get out, unfortunately. Feels like we have spent a lot of our time here waiting! But it did give us good opportunity to rest.
    Bags finally here! So happy to have more and clean fresh clothes!
    Spruced ourselves up and went out for a drink at Cafe Wortner - busy with people enjoying the sun and last of day's warmth.
    Back home and take away pizza with a bottle of prosecco.
    Another early night - but with pyjamas!
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  • Vienna 4

    April 28, 2024 in Austria ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Vienna Day 4 - Oh Vienna!
    A big day planned! A warm day - F'cast 24 C, so glad I have clothes to choose from!
    Derek off early for a walk and Judith and I met him at Wortner's at 9.
    The off to Naschmarkt to do some shopping for lunch and maybe a few extras - only to find shops and produce stores all closed! Plenty of cafes tho. We found out later shops can't open on Sunday (tho plenty seemed to be in city - maybe a tourism exception).
    Luckily there was a Spar open not far away (the only one we could find) doing a roaring trade. Walked to BurgGarten which is behind/in front of? Hofburg Imperial Palace. Huge complex of buildings. Beautiful gardens with plenty of people enjoying the weather
    We split up there as I wanted to go to Albertina Museum. Fantastic to see the residential rooms - fascinating info and amazing collection of art - particularly the line drawings.
    Then there was an Impressionism exhibition, and a special Roy Lichtenstein exhibition.
    Met up with Derek and Judith in Volks Garten. Beautiful park tho unfortunately roses not flowering but lots of people to watch as we had our picnic lunch.
    Then to Globe Museum!- very interesting and amazing collection.
    Then to the tea house we found on our first day. Delightful outdoor area tho people smoking(obviously permitted here) but quite unpleasant espec as we are not used to it any more. How lucky we are to have enlightened approaches to health and smoking!
    Tea range was amazing! Judith and I had Special Viennese Blend, Derek had Citrus Jasmine. Both beautiful and we planned on buying some in the fab store - only to find shop closed due to Sunday trading restrictions! 😞.
    Finally headed off home. A rest, finished off the prosecco and olives and a bit of packing for tomorrow's departure.
    Dinner at Wortners (just about only Viennese restaurant open in the area! - surprised that so many places are closed on Sat and Sun). A beautiful mild evening and able to sit outside. Finally got to have real Viennese dishes. Judith and I had Wiener Schnitzel - so big we could have shared one dish! But Beautiful - crisp outside thin, tender meat. Derek had the Beef Goulash which he clearly enjoyed.
    Home about 9 and in bed soon after.
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  • Salzburg

    April 29, 2024 in Austria ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Definitely one of my favourite things!
    Were the hills alive with the sound of music? Probably - with all the tourists running around!
    It was a lovely train trip to Salzburg and we had good view of the snow capped mountains. Stored our bags in lockers at the station and armed with MORE lunch supplies and a guide book on walks around the town we set out for a long afternoon of sight seeing. Lunch sitting by the Salzach River which whet our appetite for the delightful scenery. I'd heard Salzburg looks like a movie set, but I wasn't prepared for the revelation or how much we enjoyed it - even without SoM sites and shenanigans!
    We caught the funicular up to the fortress which looks over the city - and it made the whole day worth it. Spectacular scenery overlooking the town and snow capped mountains - if only we'd known about the cafes on the terraces enjoying those views! The Dom (cathedral) was fabulous too, and it's foundations date from the 9th C!
    A walk back to the station for some final Austrian fare, and then boarding our train for the overnight trip to Milan. An adventure in itself with 3 of us in a tiny but well designed cabin. Fell asleep to the gentle rocking of yhe train. A shame it was too dark to see the beautiful scenery outside.
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  • Milan

    April 30, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Milan - A short stop (well it was meant to be!) for the important things.
    An early start being woken up at 5am by a blaring alarm, but we could relax a bit with breakfast being delivered at 7 and disembarking at Milano Rogeredo at 7 40. After a bit of confusion getting on metro arrived at Milano Centrale and dropped off our bags for a morning of sightseeing. The station is as magnificent and sprawling as I remember, but so glad to see new sights this time. Sadly La Scal awas shrouded in scaffolding, but Galleria Vottorio was a few steps away ( and yes I can see the resemblance to Block Arcade!) And the a few steps further to the Duomo. It was all magnificent and busy!
    We were supposed to catch 1.10 train to La Spezia and the Riomaggiore, and 90 minutes later we were on the train.
    Riomaggiore is as beautiful and quaint as I remember - but more cafes!
    We are staying opposite the Church on a little piazza and overlooking main street - just delightful - uphill but not too many steps. Dinner at a nearby Cafe and after a stroll in the balmy twilight a stop for some local vino bianco before bed
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  • Riomaggiore

    May 1–3, 2024 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    Riomaggiore - Raindrops keep falling on my head!
    Woke to drizzle and sometimes rain, so Derek decided not to walk the trails. We walked down to harbour and 'beach' before breakkie in the main street which was colorful with umbrellas and the tour groups streaming in. We decided to train hop to see the towns.
    First stop - Manarola. Lovely town with main street wending up into the hills, with church at the top. Derek and I did a loop walk that took us to a high path alongside gardens of vines and flowers. Judith opted for a more leisurely wander in the town.
    Second stop - Corniglia. It was quite a hike up to the town from the station - luckily there was a shuttle bus that we could take for the trip back. The town was a real surprise - tiny and seemingly not much to it, but the we discovered a maze of narrow alleyways and stairs to a piazza overlooking the water and back to Manarola. Lunch at a tiny cafe.
    Third Stop - Vernazza - a bustling largish town centred on its lively harbour. Derek wanted to follow the trail up and out of town to take a photo, - Judith and I opted for coffee at one of the many cafes, huddled under umbrellas ( sadly not from the sun) for shelter from the off and on rain.
    Fourth Stop - Monterosso. It was raining fairly persistently by the time we got into the town from the station, and got even heavier while we wandered around the quaint and winding streets. It was too wet and miserable to be able to enjoy unfortunately, and we retreated to a Cafe and shelter for aperitivo.

    Back to Riomaggiore later than planned - about 7.30. We decided to stop for dinner in the main street near our apartment before going home. Lovely meal to end an enjoyable if not-to-plan day.
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  • Lucca

    May 2, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Lucca - It doesn't just rain - it pours!
    Up early for a busy day. Travelled to Lucca for a side trip, with train changes at La Spezia and Viareggio.
    Judith and I came here in Dec 2019, but keen to see it in Spring weather ( so much for that plan!)
    We entered the city through one of its impressive gates in the huge walls that surround the city and walked on the beautiful passegiata on top of the walls for a little way but heavy rain forced us down to find shelter. Judith and I were keen to see the Botanic Gardens which did look beautiful through the gate but too wet to enjoy. So we wandered the tiny streets making our way to the Torre Guinigi - tallest tower in Lucca and which has trees growing on top of it! The 230 steps were worth it for the incredible views and the lovely tiny Grove of trees! And luckily there was a brief break in the rain.
    We met Derek in Piazza San Michele were we stopped at a cafe for lunch - inside for warmth and to get a bit dry!
    Then off to the amphitheatre- which was the Roman colusseum now a courtyard of cafes and shops. Another downpour forced us to stop at a Cafe for an after lunch glass of wine ( no other option!).
    Then it was back to the station for our train to Genova ( just one change this time).
    Arrived at 7 ish and after negotiating the metro and apparent maze of streets (Google not very good un these areas!) We made it to our beautiful apartment with windows looking onto a courtyard and a beautiful tower and church.
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  • Genoa

    May 3–5, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Genova - Here comes the sun!
    Woke to lovely blue skies - finally!
    Had booked on to a free walking tour starting at 10 - and as i hoped it was the same one I did when I was here in 2014. Spyros is still doing the tour, but quite different to the one I did - including being longer (4+ hrs). But still great - so informative and he is quite a performer.
    Genova is brilliant and glad we came ( again for me, and first time for Derek)
    After a rest we headed out for dinner, finally settling on a pizza place in a nearby piazza. Pizza was great, but service slow( ir was busy with a couple of large groups), so it was a bit of a later night than planned.
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  • Bergamo

    May 4, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Bergamo - I'm on top of the world or
    5 trains in one day!
    An early start to get to station for an 8 am train. A change at Milan onto a Trenord train ( looked like a new type and very comfy and roomy) for Bergamo.
    From the station we could get a bus up to the Città Alta (upper town) which looked like it was in the clouds from the new Città Bassa. A fabulous trip up the winding road. There were lots of people and lots of cyclists when we got to the top.
    We had a picnic lunch in a little park before wandering along the narrow 'street' ( found out later it was the Roman road!) to the main piazza - filled with cafes and people. It is relatively small but very imposing.The Cathedral and other buildings in the piazza are amazing. Derek and I walked on while Judith took the opportunity to sit and people watch. At the funicular station we found a cafe on the edge of the precipice with amazing views. Couldn't help but stop for a coffee.
    We took the funicular down enjoyingbthe views of the steep terrain and Plains spending out before us.
    We left J at bus stop while D&I walked back to station. A brief period of alarm when we didn't find her waiting for us or anywhere in sight! Ended happily though after she had her own adventure on the bus!
    Train to Brescia, where we had to change for Iseo.
    Trip to Iseo was lovely passing lots of vineyards of the famous Franciacorta wine region - specialising in the lovely Franciacorta sparkling wines ( more upmarket than Prosecco!)
    Got to Iseo about 7.30 and what should've been a short walk took longer so it was after 8 when we arrived in delightful apartment with balcony overlooking ancient church and lovely garden. Luckily we had armed ourselves with beer and snacks so we could enjoy the mild evening and view. We left seeing the lake till the morning.
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  • Lake Iseo 1

    May 5–8, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Iseo - Nothing but blue skies do I see!
    Mountains, water and people abound here in Iseo! And what a delight it is!
    It's a short walk from our lovely apartment, to the main piazza and the lake, and we found it already buzzing with stalls being set up for a artisan beer festival. And there was a market on too!
    The lake and mountains are superb, and we joined many others strolling along the lakeside path. We selected one of the many cafes for caffe and brioche, enjoying the sun and sights.
    We had planned to go to MonteIsola (the largest lake island in Europe) in the afternoon, but Judith opted for a real rest day and when D&i realised we'd have a long wait for a ferry we opted for a similar plan. We enjoyed focaccia and franciacorta overlooking the lake, checking the market and tasty produce, and walking into the tiny back streets to find the lovely San Andrea church and piazza,
    Evening was aparetivo -again overlooking the lake ( where else!) and dinner at a lovely restaurant where we had the local pasta speciality - casoncelli- a filled pasta served with butter and sage sauce.
    No packing, or planning for an early start tonight - another whole day here - what a treat!
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  • Lake Iseo 2

    May 6, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Iseo Day 2 - Take it easy!
    Got out for a run this morning - lovely location for it.
    We thought we might go out to the island and then further up the lake - but the timetable was too complicated and ferries too infrequent to make it workable so decided to have another chill day and just seenthe island - everything else will have to wait till next time!.
    It was cooler and overcast today - and much quieter.
    We took ferry to Monte Isola getting off at Sensola so we could walk the couple of ks to main town Peschiera Maraglio. The walk was delightful along olive tree lined 'road' though there are no cars on the island - a few tiny deliver vans and ute's with motorcycles and bikes the main form of transport we saw.
    Lovely lunch of local cheeses and meats, plus grilled salami - yum, yum, yum! Also great to see fishing net production in action in a shop that also sold net products. Apparently a highly specialised product of the island with a worldwide market! Sardines also a local specially (hence the artwork in photos)
    Ferry back to Iseo and night in.
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  • Verona

    May 7, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    On the road again!
    Another travelling day with a stopover in Verona on the way to Bologna. A bit grey and showers forecast but it wasn't too bad.
    We opted to use a luggage storage service which was in a cafe. Worked a treat and much cheaper than the station service!
    Walked into the historic centre on a lovely wide Avenue arriving at the amphitheatre. It was busy with trucks and workers setting up for something. The ampitheatre is best preserved in Italy ( or Europe?) And is in such good condition it is used as a music venue! Picnic lunch in a park and then we caught the tourist train to get an overview of the centre and sights.
    Then we set off the places that interested us most - through lovely streets to the Erbe Market - more tourist goods than produce these days - and then a short walk to the Casa di Giulietta. It was busy but lovely in the tiny courtyard.
    A wandering walk back to the station and the the train to Bologna.
    The apartment is lovely in an area off the main traffic, bu close to the Window on the Canal. We had aperitivo in the apartment before an early night.
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  • Bologna 1

    May 8–12, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Bologna Day 1 - Food glorious Food!
    First day in Bologna started with a sleep in and an easy start to the day.
    We eventually got out and walked to Piazza Maggiore, visiting the Tourist info centre to arm ourselves with maps and new info.
    Then we hit the quadrilateral area with its fab food shops, fresh food stalls and cafes. We stopped at a little place for rolls with local meats - yum, yum yum!.
    After lunch D&i headed off to walk to Basilica di San Luca, and the incredible continuous colonnade that wends its way up the hill to the basilica. (Judith sensibly decided to rest up back at the apt). From the city the walk is about 5 ks, with 3.5 ks of continuous colonnade, making it the longest in the world. 1. 5ks of it is uphill. It was amazing, beautiful, and a good workout! The Basilica and the views overlooking Bologna and across the countryside were worth the effort.
    The walk down was quicker and we caught a bus at Melincello where the climb started, saving us more time.
    As we walked back to our apt we bumped into my former work colleague Bronwyn (who we were already planning on catching up with here) and her husband Garry. We had a drink and a lovely catch up before scooting off home, picking up some additional snacks to have with drinks.
    We ended up having another night in - we were all tired, especially D&i!
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  • Bologna 2

    May 9, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Parma - but no chicken parmas in sight!
    A nice easy start to the day catching a train at 10.30 and arriving in Parma around 11 30.
    Some very impressive buildings, art and sculptures as we made our way into the centro and the TIC (always first stop!).
    Lunch in a lovely Cafe enjoying local meats - particularly the prosciutto crudo.
    Spent a few hours wandering throught historic centre enjoying some amazing buildings ( cathedral and battistero) and streets.
    Caught a train back to Bologna at 5pm, which was pretty crowded with people perhaps on their way home from work? And school kid tour groups (end of school year approaching and as is common all over, filling in time with excursions - but how fab to travel from your little town to Bologna or Parma or Verona!)
    Went to a little bar near apt for aperitivo and then cheap and cheerful dinner in nearby piazza ( wasnt too impressed by the ragù bolognese so glad it was inexpensive!)
    Gelati on the way home.
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  • Rimini

    May 11–12, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Gold Coast on the Adriatic ( But without the high rises!)
    Came to Rimini as you can get to San Marino from here, though Derek decided not to make the trip.
    It is an Italian holiday town with wall to wall hotels and cafes and pay to sit beach providers stretching as far as the eye can see. At least our hotel room had a balcony overlooking the beach and Adriatic.
    Ended up being a rest day with aperitivo and dinner with a sea view and live music from a nearby bar.
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  • Bari 1

    May 12–14, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Bari - More than Pasta Nonnas!
    A long train trip today - 6 hours! Z down the East coast to Bari. A lot of the route was along the coast and interesting to see beaches and lots of caravan parks.
    Bari is a pleasant surprise with the 'new town' having streets laid out on a grid, many having trees and parks, and never ending apartments rising ( only 4 or 5 stories), above the streets.
    Set out for the 'old town' which was quite close and loved the tiny winding streets, the beautiful and surprisingly simple Basilica di San Antonio, and the even more simple Cathedral, which had a service underway - in itself beautiful with choir and priest singing. We saw the pasta nonnas making orchitte pasta which is one of the specialities of this area, and walked on the walls of the town overlooking the sea and marina.
    Aparetivo int the main piazza and then dinner at a gorgeous old restaurant near the apartment.
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  • Bari 2 - Alberobello

    May 13, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Alberobello - Trulli, Deeply, Madly!
    A wonderful and adventurous day today as Judith and I took on the local bus service to go to UNESCO listed town of Alberobello in the hills about 40 ks away. Going wasn't too bad, with some order in place , but coming home, with about 80 people trying to get in a 50 seat bus was a bun fight, to say the least!
    Nonetheless, it was a delightful day and so glad to have seen these unique houses and the beautiful village - though a lot of it mainly caters to tourists with accommodation, souvenir shops an cafes. Nonetheless there are pockets where people still live in these amazing structures. The bus trip was great too passing through extensive areas where olives, fruit trees and grapes were growing.
    Back in Bari we had aparetivo ( you can probably see the trend by now!) with Derek in the old town. Dinner was near the apartment again at fabulous and modern seafood restaurant. A walk to the edge of old town for the best gelati in Bari ( it was yum!).
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  • Lecce 1

    May 14–16, 2024 in Italy ⋅ 🌬 23 °C

    Lecce - in the heel of the boot of Italy, and the most southern point on our trip. A relatively short train trip from Bari so Derek and I did an early walk taking in the little harbour and sea front (Bari actually has a big port and is a ferry point for many places) Train was at 12 (but left later due to delays - thank heavens for great cafes in the stations!) and we arrived in Lecce about 2.30, so we had time for exploring the old town after we settled in at our airbnb. It is one of the best apartments we have had - beautifully decorated, thoughtfully provisioned and a self contained bedroom with terrace on the roof! The old town was just 5 mins away, and it really impressed - beautiful cream stone buildings decoratve facades, lots of churches ( we learnt later over 100 in Lecce - but maybe that includes surrounding new town?) And pleasant and wide streets ( plenty of tiny winding ones too)! And a Roman ampitheatre - in fact 2! After a short time here we already knew we would have to come back!Read more

  • Lecce 2

    May 15, 2024 in Italy ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

    Gallipoli - but not that Gallipoli!
    Decided to venture further afield to the delightful seaside town of Gallipoli. Apparently it is the “Pearl of the Ionian Sea” boasting charming beaches. There were certainly plenty of tourists there, including a cruise ship. The city is divided into two areas: the old town, surrounded by Roman and Byzantine fortifications, is on an island connected by a bridge to the so-called new suburb, the more recent district.
    We enjoyed wandering and and lunch at a fab restaurant recommended by our host, overlooking a tiny beach ( with bathers and sunseekers) and the bay.
    A short lunch and then back on the train to Lecce to do more wandering and sight seeing. Judith and I got on to the tourist train, which gave us some good information and enabled us to see things we would probably have missed.
    In a shop specialising in local produce, we picked up an orcchiete pack with spices and dried vegetables, and a jar of sugo, for a dinner at home.
    Had to pack and get an early night for an early start in the morning.
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  • Salerno

    May 16–18, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Salerno - the road less travelled - via Brindisi and Taranto.
    A very early start - 6.40 am train from Lecce! With changes at Brindisi and Taranto before getting to Salerno around 2pm. I had hoped to be able to see a bit of these towns, but not everything goes to plan. Nonetheless it was a good trip, especially as we travelled through spectacular mountains, over ravines, and along valleys. The clumps and fields of poppies added delightful color along the way.
    Salerno is a lovely city, modern and relaxed with a charming old quarter, where our airbnb was located. We had a good wander before finding somewhere for a drink and then dinner. Our wanderings took us along the seafront, and to some of the little piazzas and lanes we walked last time we were here (Christmas 2019) for the Festival of Lights.
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